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How to sow Clematis acerifolia? Detailed explanation of domestication and seedling cultivation techniques

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How to sow and grow Clematis acerifolia seedlings? Clematis acerifolia is a resource unique to China. It belongs to the genus Clematis. The introduction and cultivation of Clematis acerifolia is recognized as a difficult problem in China. Domesticating this species is of great significance for carrying out vertical greening work such as three-dimensional greening, hanging greening and wall greening.

How to sow and grow Clematis acerifolia seedlings? Clematis acerifolia is a resource unique to China. It belongs to the genus Clematis. The introduction and cultivation of Clematis acerifolia is recognized as a difficult problem in China. Domesticating this species is of great significance for carrying out vertical greening work such as three-dimensional greening, hanging greening and wall greening. Below we bring you the introduction and domestication seedling cultivation techniques for Clematis acerifolia, for reference only!

(1) Collection of seeds and branches

In May 2013 and May 2014 respectively, we went to Miaofeng Mountain in Beijing to collect seeds and branches of Clematis acerifolia. The branches were stored in a cooler box, and the seeds were stored in seed bags, then transported to Nanjing, Jiangsu Province;

(2) Sowing

Sow the seeds of Clematis acerifolia in pots containing pure river sand, then cover with 3-5mm of river sand on top, and water thoroughly with clean water. Water with clean water once every 3-7 days. Under an ambient temperature of 15-25 degrees C, cotyledons can be seen about 15-20 days after sowing, and after 30 days, proceed to routine cultivation management according to step 5;

(3) Cutting

Cutting: Make the branches of Clematis acerifolia into 2-4cm long cuttings, each cutting containing 2-3 buds, and keep one leaf; fill the flower pot with a substrate of river sand: gravel = 1:1 or river sand. Before cutting, water the substrate thoroughly with a 800-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder. Dip the base of the cutting in a 2000 mg/L IBA solution for 60s, then insert the cutting into the flower pot to a depth of 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with 10 short cuttings per pot;

After cutting, cover with 85% shade net for sun protection, and automatically spray water daily from 9:00-17:00. On sunny days, spray once every 10min for 7-12s each time; on cloudy days, spray once every 50min for 10s each time. Spray and water thoroughly with a 800-fold cloudy dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder once a week. After 120 days of cutting, proceed to routine cultivation management according to step 5.

(4) Management after survival

Clematis acerifolia is a rock flower that grows in rock crevices, and this unique habitat has created its special growing environment. The soil pH near the habitat of Clematis acerifolia is 7.2, while the rainwater and tap water in Nanjing, Jiangsu are both slightly acidic (pH value 6.2). Research found that Clematis acerifolia watered with clean water grew slowly and its leaves gradually turned yellow; those watered with nutrient solution alone grew relatively slowly; the combination of alkaline water + nutrient solution (pH 7.2) resulted in fast overall growth of seedlings, with no yellowing of leaves. For this reason, sodium hydroxide is used to adjust the pH value of the prepared nutrient solution to 7.2. Water with the nutrient solution once every 3-7 days.

Attached nutrient solution formula:

Nutrient element mg/L

NH4NO3 82.5

KNO3 95

CaCl2·2H2O 2

MgSO4·7H2O 1

KH2PO4 1

KI 0.00415

H3BO3 0.031

MnSO4·4H2O 0.1115

ZnSO4·7H2O 0.043

Na2MoO4·2H2O 0.00125

CuSO4·5H2O 0.000125

CoCl2·6H2O 0.000125

FeSO4·7H2O 0.139

Na2-EDTA·2H2O 0.1865

The above is all the content on introduction and domestication seedling cultivation of Clematis acerifolia. Friends who like it can download the Huinong.com APP, and also learn about the latest agricultural new technologies anytime and anywhere!

Does Clematis aethusifolia bloom? Planting and care methods for Clematis aethusifolia

Clematis aethusifolia is one of the varieties of Clematis and belongs to the herbaceous vines. Clematis aethusifolia is generally used as medicine and has high medicinal value. Clematis aethusifolia generally blooms in summer, and the flower color is pale yellow.


Image: Clematis aethusifolia

Planting and care methods for Clematis aethusifolia

Clematis aethusifolia likes to grow in an environment with sufficient sunlight, has good cold resistance and drought resistance, and its requirements for planting soil are deep, fertile, and well-drained, and the soil is best alkaline or sandy loam. Because the roots of Clematis aethusifolia are not tolerant of waterlogging, water accumulation should be avoided. If growing Clematis aethusifolia in a pot, it needs to be repotted once a year. For Clematis aethusifolia, spring and autumn are the seasons of very vigorous growth, while in summer, as the temperature rises, Clematis aethusifolia needs to be shaded, otherwise it will cause yellowing of leaves, poor growth, etc.

[Editor's summary]The branches of Clematis aethusifolia are very slender, and the length can reach 2 m. If used as traditional Chinese medicine, it is generally harvested in summer. The above are the planting and care methods for Clematis aethusifolia, and we hope they can be of help to everyone.

Clematis planting methods_Clematis planting techniques

Because of its outstanding ornamental effect and special garden use, Clematis has become a world-famous ornamental plant and enjoys the reputation of "Queen of Vines". Below is the Clematis planting methods we have carefully compiled for you. Let's take a look.

Clematis planting methods

Sowing, layering, grafting, division or cutting propagation are all acceptable.

Sowing: The original species can be propagated by sowing. For seeds of the epigeal type (achenes relatively small, pericarp relatively thin), if sown in spring, they can germinate in about 3-4 weeks. If sown in autumn, they will germinate when spring becomes warm. For seeds of the hypogeal type (larger, seed coat thicker), they must go through a low-temperature vernalization stage before they can germinate, and the first pair of true leaves appears; some species must go through two low-temperature stages before they can germinate, such as Clematis patens. For vernalization treatment, if seeds are refrigerated at 0-3 degrees C for 40 days, germination takes about 9-10 months. Treatment with a certain concentration of gibberellin can also be used.

Layering: In March, use mature branches produced the previous year for layering. Usually roots form within 1 year.

Grafting: For hybrids such as Clematis x jackmanii, single-node scions can be grafted onto rootstocks of C. vitalba or C. viticella by cleft grafting. The node has 1-2 buds, and the length below the node is 5-10cm. Grafting in a heated and closed grafting box easily promotes survival.

Division: Clumping plants can be divided.

Cutting: For cultivated varieties of hybrid Clematis, cutting is the main propagation method. In July-August, take semi-mature branches and cut at the internode (that is, cut in the middle between the upper and lower nodes; the node has 2 buds). The medium is half peat and half sand. The cutting depth is just until the buds on the node are exposed above the surface. Bottom temperature 15-18 degrees C. After rooting, put into 3-inch pots, and overwinter in a frost-protected hotbed or greenhouse. In spring, change to 4-5-inch pots and move outdoors. In summer, shading is needed to prevent rainstorms, and field planting is done at the end of October.

Cultivation of Clematis

Planting time: In the north, after thawing; in the central region, in April-May. Do not pack the soil too tightly around the roots; pressing lightly with the hand is enough. For potted plants, the top of the root ball should be level with the surface soil; when planting bare-rooted plants, the root crown should be 5 cm below the ground surface. After planting, cover with 10 cm of peat or humus soil on top to avoid the roots becoming overheated in summer, and at the same time it can keep the soil moist. Seedlings should all be planted in their final location once. Transplanting in spring or autumn is both acceptable. For types that flower on old branches, such as Clematis and Clematis patens, only light pruning is done; for types that flower on new shoots or side branches, such as hybrid Clematis and Clematis lanuginosa, pruning can be slightly heavier. Choose a wind-sheltered, sunny place to plant plants with root balls.

Notes:

In the first few months after planting, pay attention to sufficient watering. The watering range should be no less than 50 cm in diameter, so that the roots can extend in all directions.

If the branches are brittle and break easily, pay attention to guiding and fixing them.

When cultivating Clematis, special attention should be paid to drainage.

When planting, generally dig a hole 40 cm deep and 60 cm in diameter. After loosening the hard soil at the bottom of the hole, put in a large amount of humus, then add surface soil mixed with bone meal. In poorly drained clay or light sandy soil, after loosening the bottom of the hole, mix in a shovel of peat soil or humus. In places where water may accumulate, the bottom should be raised with stones or rubble, 25 cm above the surrounding soil surface.

Pest and disease control:

Clematis has strong resistance to pests and diseases, and serious damage by pests and diseases rarely occurs. Diseases include wilt, which may especially occur in summer when the rain clears and the temperature rises sharply, causing branches to suddenly wither, and new shoots often sprout in autumn or the following spring. Others include powdery mildew (damaging leaves or flowers), viral disease (yellow spots on leaves, deformed flowers), etc., sprayed with a 1000-fold dilution of 10% antibacterial agent 401 acetic acid solution. Pests include red spiders and slug moths, killed by spraying with a 1000-fold dilution of 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate.

Clematis planting techniques

1 Seedling selection

Because the root system of Clematis does not have sufficient competitiveness, when selecting seedlings, choose plants with full roots, multiple stems, and robust dark green color.

2 Preparation before planting

Substrate: Generally, fertile and well-drained substrates can be used for planting Clematis. We choose a substrate mixed with peat and perlite at a ratio of 3:1 or 2:1. The EC value of the substrate is controlled at 60-80 mgPkg, and the pH value is between 518-615.

Support: The final size and growth of Clematis are related to the support. The support should be thin (diameter less than 115cm) so that the petioles can twine around it. The support can be thin bamboo poles or plastic-coated wire mesh, etc., with a height between 1-2 m.

Container: The container should be at least 35 cm deep and 25-30 cm wide, and of course the bigger the better. The container is best made of wood or ceramic, which is not only beautiful but also conducive to the growth of the Clematis root system.

3 Planting

Before planting, cut the stems of Clematis to 30 cm high, which is beneficial for branching and can avoid stem breakage during planting. The base of the Clematis stem should be 3-5 cm below the soil surface. After placing the plant at the appropriate depth, cover with soil, compact, and water.

The Clematis root system likes a cool environment. Covering the planting substrate with a 3-5 cm thick mulch (such as bark, moss, etc.) can provide a good and cool root environment, which is conducive to the growth of the plant root system.

The planting time is arranged in March-May or September-October.

4 Care

Temperature: The optimum temperature for growth is 15-17 degrees C at night and 21-25 degrees C during the day. In summer, when the temperature is higher than 35 degrees C, it will cause Clematis leaves to turn yellow or even fall. Cooling measures should be taken in summer.

In November, the temperature continues to decrease. When it is below 5 degrees C, Clematis will enter dormancy. In December, Clematis fully enters dormancy. In the 1st and 2nd weeks of dormancy, Clematis begins to lose leaves.

Light: Clematis needs more than 6 h of direct light every day, which is very beneficial to its growth, although spots may appear when the weather is hot. Some large-flowered hybrid varieties in red, purple and dark blue, as well as bicolor varieties, must receive sufficient light to obtain brightly colored flowers, while some small-flowered varieties can grow and bloom in a semi-shaded environment.

Watering: Clematis is very sensitive to moisture and cannot be too dry or too wet, especially during high-temperature periods in summer, when the substrate cannot be too wet. Generally, during the growing period, water thoroughly once every 3-4 d. Water when the substrate is dry but the plant has not wilted. During dormancy, just keep the substrate moist. When watering, do not let water accumulate on the leaf surface or at the base of the plant, otherwise it can easily cause disease.

Fertilizing: Before new buds sprout in late February or early March, apply a little compound fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 15:5:5 to speed up growth. In April or June, apply a phosphate fertilizer once to promote flowering. Usually, a 150 mgPkg water-soluble fertilizer of 20:20:20 or 20:10:20 can be used, increased to 200 mgPkg during the peak growing period, and sprayed 2-3 times a month.

Pruning: The purpose of pruning is for the plant to bloom more. Pruning is generally done once a year, removing some overly dense or weak branches and allowing new shoots to extend in all directions. The pruning time should be determined according to the flowering period of different varieties: early-flowering varieties (flowering period April-May) should be pruned after flowering, that is, in June-July, removing excess branches, but not cutting off branches that have already become woody. If pruned before this, it will cause no flowering that year; large-flowered hybrid varieties (flowering period May-June) have dead or weak branches removed in February-March, and large plump buds are retained at the tips of the branches; late-flowering varieties (flowering period June-October) are pruned in February-March to a height of 60-90 cm, which requires removing some good branches.

5 Propagation

Clematis is commonly propagated by cuttings or layering. For cuttings, select semi-lignified stem segments with plump buds, keep one leaf, soak the cuttings in rooting solution for 7 d, then insert them into a substrate mixed with 2 parts sand and 1 part peat, provide more than 80% humidity, a temperature of 18-25 degrees C and 5 000-10 000 lx light, and they will root in 4-5 weeks. Some large-flowered hybrid varieties need longer; if cut in May, they may root in late August. If they have already rooted in early August, they can be field planted. If they do not root until late August, field plant them in early spring of the following year. Layering is a relatively easy method and can also be done in autumn. Bury the nodes on current-year or one-year-old branches into a substrate of sand:peat = 1:1, and they can root within 12 months, and the rooted part can be separated and planted.

6 Pests and diseases

Wilt is the main disease of Clematis. It occurs suddenly and can cause the entire plant to shrivel, although the plant still has a good root system. Spraying with carbendazim or thiophanate every 2 weeks, repeated 2-3 times, can effectively inhibit the occurrence of this disease. Powdery mildew is another disease that harms Clematis more. It is prone to occur when the temperature exceeds 20 degrees C and humidity is high. When the disease occurs, carbendazim and methyl thiophanate can be used alternately every 1 week, repeated 3-4 times.

The main pests harming Clematis include aphids, whiteflies, red spiders, thrips, and scale insects. They can be controlled with drugs such as dichlorvos, acetamiprid, propargite, buprofezin, and methidathion respectively.

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