How to Propagate and Care for Marigolds? Learn It All in One Article
How to plant marigolds? The marigold has a special nickname, "stinky hibiscus." Marigolds are usually sown in spring, and because their flowers are large and their blooming period is long, they are often used for flowerbed landscaping. Below, let's learn together with the marigold flower care guide.
How to plant marigolds? The marigold has a special nickname, "stinky hibiscus." Marigolds are usually sown in spring, and because their flowers are large and their blooming period is long, they are often used for flowerbed landscaping. Below, let's learn together with the marigold flower care guide.
1. Monitoring Function
Marigolds can monitor sulfur dioxide and ozone. They are very sensitive to both gases. When attacked by sulfur dioxide, their leaves turn grayish-white, irregular spots appear between the veins, and they gradually lose green color and turn yellow; when attacked by ozone, the leaf surface becomes waxy, with necrotic spots appearing, turning white or brown after drying, and the leaves turn red, purple, black, brown, and other colors, and fall prematurely.
2. Care Guide
(1) Pot Selection
For planting marigolds, it is best to use unglazed clay pots; plastic pots are also acceptable, and pots with multiple holes are preferable.
(2) Soil Selection
Marigolds have no strict requirements for soil, but they grow best in loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam soil, and the soil is best when it is as fine and crumbly as powder.
(3) Cultivation
Cut young branches into 10 cm lengths as cuttings, leaving 2 leaves at the top, and make the cut smooth. Mix 5 g of rooting powder with 1-2 kg of water, add 800 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder to make a seedling-soaking solution, dip 1/2 of the cutting into the solution, then immediately insert it into the potting soil, at a depth of about 1/2 the height of the pot. Press the potting soil gently firm, then water thoroughly.
(4) Light
Marigolds like sunlight, and sufficient sunlight can significantly improve flower quality.
(5) Temperature
The suitable growth temperature for marigolds is 15-25°C, and in winter the temperature must not be lower than 5°C. When the summer temperature is above 30°C, the plants grow excessively, making the stems and leaves less compact and reducing flowering; when the temperature is below 10°C, the plants can still grow, but the growth rate slows down.
(6) Watering
The watering time and amount for marigolds must both be appropriate. Do not let too much water accumulate; keeping the soil slightly moist is enough. For newly planted young marigolds, during hot weather, spray 2-3 times a day to keep the potting soil moist. Watering marigolds should follow the principle of "water when dry, stop when wet."
(7) Fertilizing
Marigolds bloom for a long time and therefore need relatively more nutrients. They like potassium fertilizer, and the application ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer should be 15:8:25. During the growing period, topdressing is needed about every 15 days. During peak flowering, 0.5% monopotassium phosphate can be used as a foliar topdressing.
(8) Propagation
Marigolds can be propagated by sowing or cuttings. When using seed propagation, it can be done throughout the year. When using cutting propagation, it is best to do it in May-June, when the plants are easy to keep alive.
(9) Pruning
Marigolds bloom for a long time, and in the later stage the branches and leaves dry up and age, making the plants prone to falling over, which is not good for viewing. Therefore, remove the flowers that have not yet fully dropped from the plants as soon as possible, and apply fertilizer as soon as possible to encourage the plants to bloom again.
(10) Placement and Display
The flowering period of marigolds is relatively long. They can be grown in pots and placed on windowsills, desks, and tables, or single stems can be made into cut flowers for vases.
The above is the daily care guide for marigold flowers. If you also grow marigolds, come quickly to Huinong Network to learn the cultivation methods!
February Flower Cultivation and Care Guide
The temperature begins to rise, but very slowly, and cold waves still often occur, with cold, overcast, and rainy weather.1. Continue to do a good job of protecting flowers from the cold.
2. Take timely and corresponding measures according to the development of narcissus to regulate the growth process, so that the narcissus blooms on time during the Spring Festival. When narcissus water culture is started too late or the weather is too cold, causing growth to be too slow, measures to increase temperature and force flowering should be taken, such as placing it on a sunny windowsill during the day (move it to a warm place indoors at night), adding warm water to the basin, and wrapping it with a plastic bag, etc.; when the narcissus grows too fast, the temperature should be lowered to slow its growth, such as providing appropriate shade and opening windows for ventilation. 3. Continue the shaping and repotting of bonsai made from coniferous and deciduous broadleaf tree stumps.
4. Field collection of stump material. After late February, when the weather turns warm and there are no major cold waves, field collection of coniferous and deciduous broadleaf trees can be carried out. Wild-collected stumps should retain more lateral roots, be pruned according to their form, stored properly, and planted as soon as they are transported to ensure the survival rate of planting.
5. The sap of pines such as five-needle pine and Japanese white pine begins to flow, and side grafting propagation can be carried out in late February. Use robust black pine grown in February as the rootstock, and cut off part of the rootstock's branches and leaves before grafting. Select 1-2 year old thick branches as scions. When grafting, first cut one side of the lower end of the scion into a slant about 1.5 cm long, and cut the other side into a slant about half a cm long. Then make a slant cut on the rootstock slightly longer than the long slant surface of the scion, with a depth reaching 1/3 to 1/2 of the thickness of the grafting site, and make the cut as close to the root as possible. Finally, insert the scion into the cut on the rootstock, align the cambium layers of both so they fit completely, and tie them with plastic film.
6. Repot azaleas, elms, plum yew, nandina, Chinese rose, kumquat, etc., and prune dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, weak branches, overly dense branches, overlapping branches, forked branches, and leggy branches. For stump bonsai such as elm and plum yew, thin out and shorten the branches within the branch pads, so that the small branches within the pads are moderately sparse and dense, do not overlap vertically, and do not fork left and right, while also making the branches within the pads twist like dragon claws and bent iron, revealing an ancient appearance, thereby increasing the aesthetic value of the stump tree; if the branches and trunk of a nandina bonsai grow too tall and affect the compositional needs, the branches and trunk should be shortened to an appropriately proportional place. Because nandina has strong sprouting ability, no matter where it is shortened, new buds can sprout below the cut.
Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition to spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the revival stage.
This month's flower tasks mainly include the following aspects: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation of some flower species.
I. Flower Cultivation
1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: pot marigold, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, safflower, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, dwarf petunia, California poppy, phlox, pocketbook plant, butterfly flower, snapdragon, nasturtium, pansy, etc.
At the end of February, those that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: seeds of magnolia species, michelia species, photinia species, maple species, and crabapple species (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand storage, as well as camphor tree, tulip tree, privet, coral ardisia, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, summersweet, wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.
2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture in February include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), nandina, cotton rose (southern regions), crape myrtle, daphne (southern regions), edgeworthia, pomegranate, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine orange, serissa, hibiscus, hypericum (plum), spiraea, mahonia, boxwood species, yellow hemp stalk, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and Chinese trumpet creeper can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cutting at the end of March. Ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors in February include: Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia, red-backed excoecaria, scarlet sage, geranium, jasmine, chloranthus, bergamot, jade plant, jade leaf, echeveria, jewel leaf, epiphyllum, crab cactus, clearweed, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, schefflera, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, etc.
3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstocks to graft Japanese five-needle pine, Japanese white pine, whitebark pine, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with film to retain heat and moisture. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstocks, and cut-graft red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstocks, and cut-graft excellent cultivars such as "Suxin," "Xinkou," and "Huti" wintersweet, adopting bagging and inflation measures to retain moisture, resulting in a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar "Elizabeth" as rootstock scions, and cut-graft or cleft-graft scions of excellent rose cultivars, adopting measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold, which can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.
4. Layering. Ornamental plant species suitable for layering propagation in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, chaenomeles, osmanthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, weigela, podocarpus, cypress, snowball, viburnum, winter jasmine, forsythia, hypericum, hydrangea, bridal wreath spiraea, spiraea, red maple, michelia, etc.
5. Division. Herbaceous flower species suitable for division propagation in February include: iris, blackberry lily, zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, variegated lilyturf, reineckea, rohdea, bleeding heart, hosta, purple hosta, small tulip, bromeliads, purple-backed rohdea, cymbidium, spring orchid, cymbidium, sword fern, spider plant species, kalanchoe, canna, arrowroot, monstera, syngonium, bird of paradise, clivia, aloe, etc. Woody flower species suitable for division propagation in February include: nandina, cotton rose, hypericum, mahonia, hydrangea, chaenomeles, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, forsythia, caragana, spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, bamboo, fern bamboo, etc.
II. Seed Collection and Transplanting
1. Seed collection. In February, seeds of nandina, holly species, coral ardisia, winter cherry, etc. can be picked, treated, and then sand-stored to promote germination, and sowing can be done only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For clivia plants blooming in greenhouses, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain clivia seeds with better genetic quality. In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seed mildew has appeared; if mildew occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with water spraying to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.
2. Transplanting. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species suitable for transplanting include: dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, pot marigold, etc. In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted. Among deciduous species, such as hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before budding and leafing out), magnolia species, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spiraea, three-lobed spirea, deutzia, Chinese scholar tree, dragon-claw scholar tree, dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as michelia species, camphor tree, elaeocarpus, French privet, machilus, purple nanmu, etc., can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Sichuan cypress, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc., should be moderately pruned when planted.
III. Flower Management
1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants have consumed a relatively large amount of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the flower plants has greatly declined, so careful work to retain moisture and protect against cold should continue. Greenhouses or plastic tunnels with heating facilities should continue to be heated, and harmful gases or smoke should be prevented from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; where straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, the straw curtains can continue to be hung; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken. Overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities should continue to be ventilated, especially by the end of February, when the ventilation time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window. For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept in homes, such as Milan, Phalaenopsis, peacock arrowroot, syngonium, iron-cross begonia, croton, pink lady, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bath heater" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.
2. Watering. In February, due to the relatively low temperature, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently spray water and mist on the plant leaves to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color, and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases it causes leaves to shrivel and wrinkle and flower buds to shrink and fall off. For example, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter cherry, etc. may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should basically match the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature. For those potted plant species placed indoors that are about to bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, pot marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, nandina, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, coral ardisia, four-season tangerine, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves, flower buds, and fruits must also be sprayed with water, so that the leaves remain green, the flower buds expand rapidly, and the fruits are brightly colored. In particular, for peonies, plum blossoms, chaenomeles, and hall crabapple placed in tunnels for forcing, the branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of the flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For large-flowered cymbidium purchased after being cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if the leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often shrivel and dry up. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese five-needle pine bonsai, etc., the potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise the plants may very likely die. In February, although most potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened, especially when temperatures rise continuously for several days, and supplemental watering and spraying should be done promptly. In February, for landscaping trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplemental watering should be done promptly. Especially for those evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, appropriate foliar spraying should also be done around noon on clear days to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting spring recovery growth.
3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most open-ground landscaping trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. A ring-shaped trench can be dug from the outer edge of the plant root system, applied, and then covered with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth in spring and summer and flowering and fruiting. In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, crab cactus, bromeliads, tillandsia, guzmania, clivia, etc., low-concentration monopotassium phosphate can continue to be applied as topdressing to favor plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilizing should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.
4. Pruning. In February, for open-ground or potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have bloomed, leave only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, encouraging many new shoots that year, and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, leggy branches, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly pruned for shape, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, banyan, trident maple, Fukien tea, oak, Chinese pistache, water willow, elaeagnus, holly, wintergreen, serissa, juniper, and Chinese juniper, continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be done at the same time as pruning.
5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, Milan, white orchid, jasmine, chloranthus, two-color jasmine, red-backed excoecaria, sword fern, monstera, rubber tree, fuchsia, begonia, wax begonia, painted-leaf begonia, spring orchid, cymbidium, cymbidium, sago palm, clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, crab cactus, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, schefflera, rohdea, bird of paradise, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral flower, clerodendrum, camellia, sasanqua, chaenomeles, hydrangea, nandina, croton, syngonium, arrowroot, coral ardisia, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, bergamot, etc.
6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on the leaves of primrose, etc., in the early stage of disease, spray 1500 times dilution of 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are enough. For gray mold appearing on the leaves and corollas of potted cyclamen in tunnels, spray 1000 to 1500 times dilution of 50% iprodione wettable powder. For potted Belgian azaleas in tunnels, stop foliar spraying of foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao," because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots. For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects, they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, spray 2000 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate to kill them. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly. For insect bodies such as pink hibiscus mealybug, white peach scale, oyster shell scale, and blackish round scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2500 times dilution of 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flower pot. Continue to clean up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and pest-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.
7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal and ferment, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or compost and ferment the cake fertilizer, etc., spread it out to dry after about 2 months, and after it is fully dried, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried granular powder of cake fertilizer can be spread in flower pots as topdressing. For spring orchid, cymbidium, black orchid, large-flowered cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, cattleya, and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than watering with liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of foliar diseases. In addition, it can also be used to prepare potting soil.
8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue to turn and cultivate garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, ditches can be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees. Plant species that can be shaped by wiring in February include: cypress, podocarpus, Chinese juniper, juniper, oriental arborvitae, true cypress, ginkgo, serissa, creeping juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, water willow, caragana, small golden coin plum, winter hazel, chaenomeles, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, trident maple, etc. Continue to rewire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If concave binding constriction marks are found on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation. For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing unnecessary losses.
May Courtyard Flower Care Guide
May Courtyard Flower ArrangementsFlower and tree species suitable for courtyard display. Entering May, the turn of spring and summer, temperatures across the country rise significantly, and sunlight gradually becomes stronger. The types of potted ornamental plants that can be displayed in courtyards increase, such as Chinese rose, Norfolk Island pine, hall crabapple, Canary Island date palm, rubber tree, five-needle pine, podocarpus, nandina, amaryllis, jasmine, bamboo palm, sago palm, king coconut, areca palm, variegated schefflera, palm, bottle palm, cinnamon, beautiful phoenix palm, European primrose, lily (dwarf potted), pomegranate, peony, michelia, red maple, Milan, four-season osmanthus, bitter orange, etc.
May Courtyard Flower Propagation
1. Sowing
Herbaceous flower species suitable for sowing in May include: four-season primrose, impatiens, globe amaranth, etc. Woody flowers include: loquat, Japanese aralia, mahonia, areca palm, bottle palm, osmanthus. Among them, the seeds of the first 5 flower species can be washed clean and sown immediately after collection. Only osmanthus fruits that are mature, black, soft, and covered with white powder should have the peel and pulp washed off, then be stored in clean wet sand until February of the following year, and sown again when the seeds have cracked and shown white. For seeds sown immediately after collection, the following points should be noted when sowing: first, keep the seedbed moist, but not waterlogged; second, cover with grass to prevent the seeds from "regreening"; third, after the seeds emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages, and promptly build a shade shed to prevent the sun from scorching the young seedlings. In addition, although loquat has large seeds, its young shoots have weak soil-pushing ability and are prone to bending. Sowing too deep will affect the emergence rate and seedling survival rate, so shallow sowing is appropriate; generally, a ditch 2 to 3 cm deep covered with soil until the ditch is full is enough.
At this time, planting gladiolus bulbs in the ground can bloom in August; planting tuberose in the ground can bloom from August to September.
2. Cuttings
Herbaceous ornamental plants suitable for cuttings in May include: scarlet sage, pansy, chrysanthemum, spiderwort, dragon's mouth flower, wax begonia, begonia, monstera (stems), clearweed, syngonium, anthurium, white net-veined fittonia, globe amaranth, marigold, coleus, pepperomia, geranium, coral flower, etc. Succulent ornamental plants include: epiphyllum, crab cactus, cactus (used as rootstock), three-ribbed euphorbia (used as rootstock), echeveria, jewel leaf, etc. Woody ornamental plants include: azalea, chloranthus, jasmine, crown of thorns, Chinese rose, fuchsia, Chinese hibiscus, clerodendrum, nandina, red-backed excoecaria, mahonia, rubber tree, dragon's blood tree, red mulberry, hydrangea, pomegranate, hibiscus, lantana, cordyline, bougainvillea, schefflera, firethorn, purple magnolia, butterfly bush, etc.
3. Grafting
In May, wild rose, etc. can be used as rootstock to bud-graft Chinese rose; use 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedlings or cutting seedlings as rootstock to approach-graft white orchid; use 2- to 3-year-old single-trunk rubber trees as rootstock to branch-graft variegated weeping fig; use green maple seedlings as rootstock to graft red maple by young shoot grafting; use finger-thick wintersweet seedlings as rootstock to approach-graft excellent wintersweet cultivars; use osmanthus seedlings or small-leaf privet as rootstock to approach-graft improved osmanthus; use red camellia or single-petal camellia seedlings as rootstock to graft camellia by young branch grafting; use vigorously growing Rhododendron pulchrum as rootstock to cleft-graft Western azalea; use yellow mugwort as rootstock to graft chrysanthemum cultivars; in early May, use cactus and three-ribbed euphorbia as rootstock to graft Christmas cactus; use three-ribbed euphorbia as rootstock to graft Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, etc.
4. Division
Flower species suitable for division propagation in May include: hosta, purple hosta, iris, Aspidistra, zephyr lily, silver-striped lilyturf, Haworthia, Guangdong evergreen, orchid grass, jasmine, chloranthus, black-eyed Susan, purple loosestrife, wax begonia, sword fern, etc.
5. Layering
Flower species suitable for layering propagation in May include: michelia, chloranthus, plum blossom, winter jasmine, Chinese rose, hall crabapple, cherry blossom, white orchid, rubber tree, Belgian azalea, osmanthus, purple magnolia, croton, podocarpus, cypress, true cypress, gardenia, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, Milan, etc.