How to cultivate wintersweet trees? Measures to improve planting efficiency

Wintersweet trees are also known as yellow plum blossom, fragrant plum blossom, fragrant plum, and dry-branch plum. They are 2-5 cm long with a diameter of 1-2.5 cm. The seeds are chestnut-brown and oval, with a smooth and glossy surface. Today, the editor will talk about the cultivation methods of wintersweet trees and measures to improve planting efficiency, hoping to be helpful to everyone.

1. The flowering period of wintersweet trees is from November to February of the following year, and the fruiting period is from April to November. Wintersweet trees are 3 m tall, have a strong fragrance, like places with sufficient sunlight, have strong cold resistance, and are suitable for planting in wind-sheltered, sunny spots with well-drained sandy loam soil.

2. Wintersweet trees have the advantages of drought tolerance, strong growth vigor, strong branching ability, and long lifespan. They are mainly produced in the northwestern Hubei region of China and the Hanzhong region of Shaanxi Province.

3. Existing cultivation methods for wintersweet trees mainly include sowing, grafting, cutting propagation, sowing, grafting, layering, and cutting, but these cultivation methods have slow growth rates, with survival rates of only below 90%, and cultivation management is also relatively cumbersome, labor-intensive and time-consuming, with low economic benefits. Therefore, today the editor will talk about the key points of division propagation and management of wintersweet trees, as follows:

a. Around Cold Dew, spray the wintersweet garden with 50% phoxim or 50% fenitrothion at 1000 times dilution for pest control; around winter, select 3-year-old wintersweet trees as mother plants, saw off all main branches 50 cm above the ground, and water once with overwintering water.

b. Around Rain Water of the second year, dig a semicircular pit with a diameter of 60 cm at a relatively low place near the root of the wintersweet tree, divide the suckers from the clump at the base of the mother plant, keep several main branches in the center of the mother plant to continue growing, and the separated daughter plants should carry more roots. Plant them at a row spacing of 5 m and a plant spacing of 4 m.

c. Around Qingming of the third year of wintersweet planting, spray the wintersweet garden with 50% phoxim or 50% fenitrothion at 1000 times dilution for pest control; around Start of Winter, select vigorous branches of 1-year-old seedlings as the trunk for training, leave 70 cm and cut back, remove strong branches and keep weak ones among the remaining branches on the trunk at the cut, use them as auxiliary nurturing branches, cut off the two pairs of lateral branches below the cut bud, keep the remaining lateral branches only as auxiliary nurturing branches, and leave 1 lateral bud at the cut as a lateral branch. In this way, the number of flowers on the wintersweet branches will increase the following year.

Planting Methods for Several Common Flowers

Planting Methods for Several Common Flowers
1. Fringed iris
Fringed iris is a perennial herb in the genus Iris of the family Iridaceae. It is distributed in almost all provinces and regions across the country, and also in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, enters the soil shallowly, grows horizontally, and is yellow-brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green, and glossy. The flower stalk rises above the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and sparse raceme. There are 3 style branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like shapes, rolled back and covering the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower color of this species is light purple or light blue. It is suitable for natural-style planting and is also suitable for flower borders, flower beds, and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers shady and moist places, has strong adaptability and cold resistance. When cultivated outdoors over winter in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil and grows well in moist, fertile soil and a sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2 to 3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, which is beneficial for full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Divide the dug-out rhizomes and replant each section with 1 to 2 buds. Seed propagation: germination occurs 4 to 6 weeks after sowing, and flowering can only occur 2 to 3 years after sowing.
Cultivation and pests and diseases: Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied. After planting, the rhizome should be pressed firmly. Shallow planting is appropriate, and deep planting is not suitable. In early spring, remove residual leaves to help new buds sprout. During the vigorous growth period, watering should be sufficient, and fertilize 1 to 2 times a month to make the flowers abundant and the leaves lush. During the flowering period, keep the soil moist, but do not allow waterlogging; after flowering, apply 1 topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which is beneficial to rhizome development; after the flowers fade and the rhizome enters dormancy, the soil should be kept dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by larvae of the noctuid moth and can be controlled by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution; during the growth period, slugs and snails are also harmful, and 3% limewater can be sprayed in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around farmhouses improves the environment and beautifies life. With clever arrangement, the courtyard will become breathtakingly beautiful.
Planting one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees alone or in pairs in the courtyard is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement; planting shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as fringed iris) and begonia in damp shady spots by the wall will grow well even without meticulous management; for potted flowers on the balcony, small aglaia and Chinese rose are more suitable; on the sunny side, sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and scarlet sage can be planted, and sufficient sunlight will help them grow better; cacti and golden-edged lotus on the roof still grow well even without care for a long time; where shade is needed, several grapevines, morning glories, or Boston ivy can be planted in front of the window or by the fence; even indoors, several pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern and orchids can be placed on the desk or tea table. In this way, the farm courtyard will become colorful and full of vitality!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant in the family Asteraceae, with the whole plant densely covered with soft hairs. The leaves are in whorls of three, forming a triangular shape, and the leaves resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria. Its flower colors are gorgeous and rich, including blue flowers that are very rare indoors; and its flowering period is long, about 6 months, making it an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival, and May Day Labor Day, and a representative flower of winter and spring. However, it is not easy to cultivate cineraria potted flowers with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color, and long flowering. The following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation must be mastered.
Sowing time: Generally choose mid-August. Cineraria likes cool climates and cannot tolerate hot high temperatures. The suitable growth temperature is 15°C to 20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade shed or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, a shade shed must be built above the bed soil to reduce solar radiant heat.
Seedling moisture control: This is mainly done by spraying water mist to lower the temperature of the seedbed and supply water to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough. The seedbed soil should not be too dry, nor too wet. After wilting from being too dry, seedlings are difficult to recover; if too wet, plus seedlings being in a high-temperature period, they are prone to root stagnation, resulting in low seedling survival rates.
Preparation of culture soil: Cineraria likes sandy soil rich in humus and well-drained, with a suitable pH of 6.5 to 7.5. When preparing the culture soil for sowing, be careful to mix uncontaminated leaf mold or plant ash, pure loess, and fine sand in a ratio of 3:1:1, then sift, and do not add any fertilizer. The culture soil prepared in this way is beneficial to seed germination and growth. Overly sticky culture soil cannot withstand drying. Once it cracks slightly, it will break the fine roots of the seedlings, causing seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The culture soil after seedling separation can be the same as the sowing culture soil, to harden the seedlings. When potting, evenly place soybean cake, bone meal, or superphosphate into the culture soil as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, burnt soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake, and fine sand in a ratio of 3:2:2:1:1 to prepare the culture soil, to ensure sufficient nutrient supply for the plants. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed, and sun-dried. Rapeseed cake must be crushed, fully stirred and mixed, and sifted before being used as culture soil for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria likes cool climates, avoids cold in winter, and avoids high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be cultivated in a greenhouse, generally maintained above 10°C, and the room temperature should often be kept around 15°C for good growth; in summer, the sowing box should be placed under a shade shed, or a sowing bed should be prepared under the shade shed, and watering before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m. is more appropriate. Never water at noon, so that the seedlings can smoothly pass through the high-temperature period.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements in order to grow well. How to keep humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully cultivating cineraria. If it is too dry, the leaves of cineraria are likely to remain wilted, which is not conducive to leaf growth, easily causes yellowing of leaves, and also easily leads to red spiders and aphids. If watered too much, indoor humidity becomes too high, which easily causes root, main stem, and leaf rot, and also easily produces aphids; if the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases are likely to occur.
3. Corn poppy
Corn poppy, also known as beauty spring flower and garden spring, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower in the genus Papaver of the family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm. The stem is slender, and the branches are slender and weak. The leaves are alternate, and the leaf blades are irregularly pinnately lobed, with serrations. The whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. Flowers are solitary at the top of branches, with long pedicels. The flower buds droop and then straighten immediately when the flowers open. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. The flower colors of corn poppy are extremely rich and gorgeous, including vermilion, dark purple, bright pink, snow white, and tricolor. The flowers last only 1 to 2 days before falling, but the buds are abundant and open successively. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical, the fruit ripening period is July, and the seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold-resistant and suitable for sufficient sunlight and a cool climate environment in spring. It cannot tolerate intense summer heat and humidity. It is usually sown in drills in flowerbed beds in early winter. It has no strict requirements for soil, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the surface soil has just thawed, and gradually remove the plastic film after emergence. Corn poppy is a taproot flower. Its roots are fine and deep, with few lateral roots. During the seedling stage, root length often exceeds plant height by about 1 time, so it cannot be transplanted. Even if transplanted reluctantly, the survival rate is very low. When drill sowing results in dense seedlings, thin them 2 to 3 times in stages, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy does not have high water and fertilizer requirements, but avoid heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil waterlogging.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders, and flower belts. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January, and moved out in late April for use as May Day holiday flowers. Home flower growing can be done on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press flat, sow 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just until the seeds are no longer visible, and after sowing soak the pot in water to moisten. After the seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing weak ones and keeping strong ones, and finally keep 3 to 5 plants for final planting. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in planting soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep sufficient light and fresh ambient air, with nighttime temperatures not lower than 5°C, avoid drought and waterlogging, and they can bloom in March, until May Day.
Corn poppy and opium poppy belong to the same family, not only looking similar but also having the same habits. The only differences are that opium poppy has a larger plant shape and fruit, and the whole plant is covered, while corn poppy is smaller, and the whole plant is covered with sparse hairs. However, corn poppy is suspected by some people to be the drug opium. In fact, although corn poppy contains milky sap in its body, its components do not contain laudanum. Its flowers can be made into a gargle with antitussive effects, and its milky sap has analgesic and anti-diarrheal effects. On a warm spring day with bright sun, patches of corn poppy in courtyard green spaces compete to bloom, like clusters of red clouds and also like pieces of silk handkerchiefs. When the breeze blows, both people and flowers feel light and floating.
4. Calceolaria
Calceolaria is a herbaceous plant in the genus Calceolaria of the family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, cream, orange-red, dark brown, etc. The flowers are adorned with colorful spots and markings, very lovely, and are often used for indoor decorative display. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and the flowering period under greenhouse cultivation is March to April.
Calceolaria is native to the Mexico and Chile region. It likes cool and humid conditions and can grow at 3°C to 6°C indoors in winter. During the growth period, relatively high air humidity must be maintained. Pay attention to ventilation. Sufficient light is beneficial to plant flowering.
Ventilation and shading: Calceolaria likes cool conditions, and the suitable growth temperature is around 10°C. If the stems and leaves develop luxuriantly during the growth period, while the potting soil is too wet and the environment is stuffy and hot, the plant stems will rot and the leaves will decay. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated and cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until the seeds mature from May to June, ventilation work must be done even better, and shade at noon to help the seeds develop and mature.
Watering and fertilizing: Calceolaria likes a warm and humid environment, but avoid overly wet potting soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally water only when the potting soil is dry. If indoors in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. Do not directly wash the plant when watering. If water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growth season, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times). At the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. When fertilizing, do not let fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, so as to avoid heart and leaf rot.
Propagation techniques: Calceolaria is generally propagated by sowing. When seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be done when the weather turns cool after high temperatures, that is, from August to September, because seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot during high-temperature periods. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sift and disinfect, then put into a shallow pot, fill with enough water by the soaking method, and then sow. Calceolaria seeds are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder particles. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, put the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not sow too densely, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it is also fine not to cover with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place in a cool place, keep the temperature at around 20°C, and emergence can occur in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and gradually let them receive sunlight, with the temperature lowered to around 15°C.
When the seedlings show 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted. When they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For the culture soil, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand, and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH of 6.5. From November to December, they can be planted in large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and cockscomb amaranth, is named because the inflorescence is twisted and folded like a cockscomb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30-50 cm. The stem is erect, with the upper part flattened, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate, or lanceolate, gradually narrowed at the tip, entire, and petiolate. The spike is terminal, with a flattened, fleshy rachis, cockscomb-shaped, yellow, white, or red-purple, with velvety luster. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a 1000-grain weight of 0.85 g. Used for flower beds and flower borders, and can also be potted. It is also relatively good as a cut flower, and the vase life can reach more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely hen-and-chicks cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden velvet cockscomb, and foxtail cockscomb. In addition, there are many cultivars. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20-30 cm), medium-stem types (40-60 cm), and tall-stem types (higher than 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are differences between early-flowering and late-flowering. The colors range from extremely pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brown-yellow, and from jade red, rose red, orange-red to purple-red, and there are also mixed colors such as speckled gold and Erqiao with yellow-series and red-series intermixed.
Cockscomb is native to India. It likes hot and dry climates and is afraid of waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, avoids sticky soil, and grows poorly in barren, poorly ventilated soil, with smaller inflorescences. It can self-sow and propagate.
Propagation by sowing: Sow in open-field seedbeds from March to April in spring. When sowing, it is not appropriate to cover with soil. Cover with grass and water, keeping the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering grass. Transplant when there are 2 leaves. When the seedlings grow to 5-10 cm, plant them in the field or pot them. Do not fertilize during the seedling stage, otherwise the lateral branches will grow vigorously and affect the development of the main branch. After the cockscomb forms, apply thin fertilizer to promote growth. Seeds are prone to variation, so seeds should be carefully selected every year when saving seeds.
The flowering period of cockscomb can be regulated by controlling the sowing time. Generally, sowing can be carried out from March to June. Sow according to flower use needs to meet the demand for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It likes warm and dry climates, is afraid of drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but has no strict requirements for soil. It can generally be planted in ordinary soil courtyards. It is a new way to develop courtyard economy at present, and people of insight may wish to try it.
Propagation and cultivation: Seed propagation method. Around Qingming, select a good plot, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow fine and harrow evenly, level and make beds, evenly scatter the seeds on the bed surface, cover the seeds slightly, firm the soil and water thoroughly. Generally, at a temperature of 15-20°C, emergence can occur in 10-15 days. For summer sowing after Grain in Ear, sow at a row spacing of 30 cm. When the seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them at a plant spacing of 20 cm. The thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. During the seedling stage, weeding and loosening the soil must be done. When it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply topdressing once. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately. In low-lying areas during the rainy season, strictly prevent water accumulation. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to concentrate nutrients on the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs during the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growth period, cotton geometrid moths are likely to occur. Spraying leaves with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can provide control.
Harvesting and processing: Generally around White Dew, the seeds gradually turn black and mature. The flower stems can be cut off in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them back late, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy. Store in bags.
6. Garden balsam
Garden balsam is also called nail grass, common achyranthes, golden phoenix flower, and speckled gold flower. Its place of origin is China and India, and it can be planted in flower pots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25-35 cm tall. The flowers are white, pink, orange-red, copper-red, etc. The flower types include single-petaled and double-petaled. It is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C-30°C. Sowing period: March to April or September to October
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C-32°C. Flowering period: May to July and December to February.
I. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, including temperature, light, water, and growing medium. Temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If air conditioning or heating is used indoors to regulate temperature, planting will not be affected by season, but after emergence, the plants must be placed by a sunny window so they can receive as much sufficient sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Okay, now it is time to prepare for sowing. Please confirm again before sowing: whether the conditions required for seed germination and growth are currently available.
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that at most only a thin layer of soil can cover the surface of the flower seeds, 1 to 3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (as accurate as possible, but feeling is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, it will make seed germination difficult.
2. Adjust the watering can to spray mode and spray an appropriate amount of water on it;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic film to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a dark place without light, and remember to open it for 15 to 20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10 to 15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination. Sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the germination time of seeds, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout unfolds symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic film), and place it in a sunny place, avoiding direct sunlight, paying attention to temperature changes, and do not water excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and turned green, it is necessary to gradually increase the duration of direct sunlight.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, place it under all-day direct sunlight, pay attention to the dryness of the growing medium, and water appropriately; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it indicates that the most difficult stage of planting has been passed. As long as temperature and moisture are well controlled, garden balsam will grow vigorously.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, leggy growth often occurs, making the plant slender, weak, and prone to lodging. The light duration should be increased.
2. Rotate the flower pot as often as possible so that the branches and leaves receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully.
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one inch, keep the vigorous plants, and the rest need to "move" - repotting.
2. When repotting, be very careful not to damage the fine roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a hole of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system fully spread out, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water appropriately.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, keep it somewhat drier, so that the surface soil is dry while the interior remains moist, which is better;
2. Water as much as possible in the morning, avoiding sunlight;
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4 to 6 minutes first to dissipate the chlorine in tap water;
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-spout pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around the edges and less near the plant, and try not to splash it on the leaves and stems.;
7. Lily
Lily is a perennial root vegetable crop. Its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of planting lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation management, unit yields are relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from planting lilies, great effort must be made in cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is advisable to choose acidic sandy loam with sufficient sunlight, deep soil layers, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH value of 5.7-6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop is best as legumes or grasses. Crop rotation should be practiced, and continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Selection of improved varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily, and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large bulbs, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth, and high yield. Generally, small bulbs (single fruit weight 30-50 g) are used for propagation. Lily bulbs easily carry diseases, so robust bulbs without bottom rot, disease spots, or mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs to ensure neat emergence and fewer infections. Planted in the current year, they can be harvested the following year. If seed sources are insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvesting. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, in August, broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu, deep plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30-40 kg per mu of potassium sulfate ternary compound fertilizer, prepare the land and make beds. The bed surface width is about 1 m, and the bed height is 20-30 cm, ensuring no waterlogging. Then open furrows for planting. At the bottom of the furrow, apply decomposed chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, burnt soil ash, tung oil cake, and other organic fertilizers at 1200-1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant. The seed bulbs must not contact the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are likely to occur. The cultivation density is 30 x 20 cm, and the seed bulb amount per mu is 125-150 kg. The harvest amount after one year of planting is 4 to 6 times the seed bulb amount.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb at 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim at 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 600-800 times, alternating once every 7-10 days, and spray continuously 2 to 3 times.
Pest control: For underground pests, use 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% dexon mixed into poisonous soil and evenly spread into the planting furrows; for aphids, spray 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times, once every 7-10 days.
5. Timely harvest: Harvest can be done from July to August each year. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before Start of Autumn gives the highest yield; harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in autumn is also possible, but the dry slice rate is low and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dry slices, and small bulbs below 50 g are all kept as seed.
8. Bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and Northeast China. It likes a semi-shady environment with sufficient scattered light and is relatively cold-resistant, but fears midsummer heat and high temperatures and strong light exposure. Therefore, it is suitable to place it under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on east- or north-facing balconies. During the summer dormancy period, place it in a well-ventilated shady place, away from direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold-resistant, avoids high temperatures, likes shady and humid environments and loose, fertile neutral soil. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay. By midsummer, the stems and leaves turn yellow and it enters dormancy. Dormant in hot summers. It cannot tolerate drought and likes moist, well-drained fertile sandy loam. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay. Avoid direct sunlight. The flowering period is April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer the stems and leaves gradually turn yellow and it becomes dormant.
Bleeding heart propagation:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cutting, and sowing can all be used.
Bleeding heart division propagation method.
It should be done in early spring in February after the buds begin to sprout and before new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the tender rhizomes around the main rhizome together with roots, divide into 2 to 3 plants, and plant them in a prepared seedbed, covering with 2-3 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a shady place. Division can also be done after the plants enter dormancy in autumn, similar to early spring division. Timing must be appropriate. If the new leaves of the old plant have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during late autumn dormancy, but the survival rate is not high. It can only be divided once every 2 or 3 years, not every year.
The commonly used method is division. Before sprouting in March, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes naturally along the growth direction, with each piece carrying 3 to 5 buds, and replant. They can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots can develop in about 1 month. Seed propagation: seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before flowering.
Bleeding heart cutting propagation method
Cutting medium: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect with 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Conduct from June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the ground temperature and air temperature are also relatively suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
Softwood cuttings: In June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select branches that are fully developed and have relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7-10 days cut the robust lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes, each about 10-15 cm long, keep one leaf at the upper end, and remove some small leaves. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node and small leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert into plain soil, water, and place in a shady place. Frequently spray water on the cuttings, but restrict watering of the potting soil; it is enough to keep it slightly moist but not dry. Roots can form in more than a month. The following spring, pot them with soil for final planting. With good management, they can bloom in the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil, but fertilizer must be avoided. After cutting, water thoroughly and shade. Generally, roots can form in 30 to 40 days.
Post-cutting management:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-spout watering can so that the cuttings are in close contact with the medium. Set up an arched frame over the bed, cover with plastic film, and cover with straw curtains to create a semi-shady environment. Control the temperature at around 25°C. When too high, ventilate appropriately to lower the temperature, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots can form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the frame film and straw curtains. The following spring, they can be transplanted for final planting and bloom in the same year.
Plant in March to April. Cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly in autumn. Field-planted bleeding heart needs covering for insulation in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In hot summers, place in a semi-shady place, and during the rainy season, be careful to prevent water accumulation in the pot.
Or cut the rhizomes into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part, separate the rhizomes naturally along the direction of growth, and plant them separately. Alternatively, cut the rhizomes into sections, each with buds, insert them into sand, and after rooting, plant them in pots. Seed propagation: seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before flowering.
Bleeding heart sowing propagation method.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them in time. Cut off the inflorescence and dry it in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, and immediately broadcast them in the seedbed, water thoroughly, and seedlings can emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to protect the seedlings through the winter. The following spring, plant the vigorous seedlings at a spacing of 30-50 cm. Sown seedlings need 3 years to bloom.
Household propagation generally does not use this; it is used by landscaping departments for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Bleeding heart cultivation
For field planting, choose a place with relatively high terrain. Before planting, deep plow the bed soil and apply decomposed organic fertilizer; during the growth period, topdressing can be combined with irrigation; in summer high temperatures, when the stems and leaves turn yellow and enter dormancy, the dead branches can be cut off. Watering thoroughly once before Frost's Descent is beneficial for cold protection. For potted plants, use lightweight culture soil with added fertilizer for potting, water thoroughly after planting, and place in a sunny place for care; during the growth period, provide sufficient fertilizer and water. Move it less during the flowering period to avoid flower drop affecting ornamental value; after flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the faded flowers.
Bleeding heart management
Bleeding heart is cold-resistant and likes shade, and cannot tolerate high temperatures. It grows well when planted in loam rich in humus. Generally, water once a week. During the flower bud formation period, apply decomposed fertilizer water 1 to 2 times. Do not water too much; keeping it moist is enough. During the growth period, apply aged urine diluted 5 times with water once every 2 to 3 weeks. If directly sown in flower beds, thin when there are 5 leaves, with a plant spacing of 30 cm. In March of the following year, apply aged urine diluted 3 times with water once more and wait for it to bloom. In July, collect the black fruits, dry them in the sun, thresh, and collect seeds.
Bleeding heart pests and diseases
For scale insects, spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution; leaf spot disease sometimes occurs, and can be controlled by spraying 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution.
For leaf spot disease, spray 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. Pests include scale insects, which can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
9. Daylily
Hemerocallis hybrida, a perennial herbaceous plant in the genus Hemerocallis of the family Liliaceae, is native to China, Japan, and Eurasia. It is now widely cultivated around the world and is an excellent perennial garden flower.
Hemerocallis hybrida has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, resists low cold, and has a wide temperature adaptation range. It can be planted from south to north in China. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil. Except for overly acidic, overly alkaline, overly sandy, and overly sticky soil, it can generally be cultivated. A pH value between 6.5 and 7.5 is best.
Propagation methods
Dividing daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to operate, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. For division, the entire mother clump can be dug out and replanted separately; or part of the plants can be dug out from one side of the mother clump as planting material, and the remaining part continues to grow.
Division is mostly carried out before sprouting in spring or after leaf fall in autumn. When divided and transplanted in spring, the plant can bolt and bloom the same year; when divided and transplanted in autumn, it can only bolt and bloom the following year. When transplanting, choose plants that are vigorous, have many flower buds, good quality and no pests or diseases.
When dividing, dig out a portion of the tillers from the clump as planting stock; the portion dug out must have roots. Cut it apart at the shortened stem, remove the old roots, decayed roots and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, shorten them appropriately (leaving about 10 cm) and then plant. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging, dividing and planting seedlings as you go, injuring the roots as little as possible, so that the plants re-establish quickly. Generally divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure vigorous growth of the plants.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing seedlings in large quantities, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and only after one year from sowing can they be planted out. The seed collection period begins around September each year, requiring plants that are robust, with plump fruit and no pests or diseases. Sowing takes place the following spring.
The seedbed should first be given plenty of base fertilizer; the bed is 1.3 to 1.7 m wide and about 30 m long, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, maintaining good soil moisture, and by autumn the seedlings can be lifted and planted. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
The seeds can also be soaked to promote germination and then sown in the open field to raise seedlings, with a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows 30 cm apart and about 3 cm deep, sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm, and after the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply one application of dilute human manure and urine. Use a small arched shed to protect against cold over winter, strengthen field management after spring begins, and transplant in August. Seeds collected from evergreen daylily can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature and then sown.
Division of buds: flower buds refer to the small plants on the flower stems of the large-flowered daylily. The flower buds can be cut from the flower stems, and if they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. The transplanted flower buds take root after one week. The rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture: use young leaves, filaments, flower scapes and other organs to cultivate plants. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus tissue, then culture them into small plantlets with a suitable medium under suitable conditions of temperature, humidity, light and air. The plantlets are then heeled in nutrient pots, cultured for a period into young plants, and afterwards planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods described above, other methods can also be used to propagate the large-flowered daylily. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growing points and root systems, and after about 6 months of planting they can be divided again. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the flower crown, use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Large-flowered daylily is mostly planted in early spring, in early March, before sprouting. Although the large-flowered daylily is not strict about soil requirements, since it can grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to use level ground with a low water table, or sloping land with a good water source and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil and a deep soil layer. Newly opened wasteland must have the soil fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to raise its organic matter content. The land must be leveled; because the large-flowered daylily has strong tillering ability, the spacing between plants and rows must be kept at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting, with the holes in a triangle, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow: too deep and tillering is slow; too shallow and tillering is fast but the plants mostly grow thin and weak. Generally the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, base fertilizer is applied up to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting the soil is covered and compacted. Apply 500 to 600 kg per mu of human manure and urine diluted with water as a spot application to settle the seedlings, ensuring the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization: the large-flowered daylily has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Besides applying plenty of base fertilizer at planting (well-rotted cow manure or pig manure is suitable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote robust growth of the plants and enlargement of the leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, enhance tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud formation ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium supply is sufficient, the plant tissues are tough, growth is robust, and disease resistance is strong; in the middle and later stages it can make the flower scapes emerge neatly and thickly, the flower buds develop large, and bud formation ability increase. Therefore, before flowering and during the flowering period, topdressing is needed twice, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and nitrogen fertilizer must not be applied one-sidedly. A 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate spray can also be applied to promote larger flowers? and can achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation: the large-flowered daylily has relatively strong drought resistance, and its water requirement during vegetative growth is not large, so irrigation should be based on the water needs of each growth and development stage of the daylily, combined with local climate, soil and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, soil water-holding capacity must be maintained at 70% to 80%, and watered promptly in drought. At the seedling stage the plants are small and their water requirement is also small. From the beginning of reproductive growth, the water requirement gradually increases; if water is lacking at this time, growth will be affected. During the flower bud stage, the soil must be kept moist frequently to prevent the flower buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once every week. Watering should be thorough and even, and morning and evening are best. In July and August there is a lot of rain, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are needed. Before winter begins, winter irrigation should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: after planting, during the seedling stage, intertillage and weeding should be done in good time. During the seedling stage, intertillage should be shallow rather than deep, and as the seedlings age, the intertillage should be deepened. Before spring seedlings emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil, and after emergence, shallow hoeing 3 to 4 times at appropriate times, which can achieve the dual purpose of weed control and drought prevention. Intertillage and weeding should be carried out when soil moisture is moderate, and can stop once the leaf clumps cover the ground. Remove weeds in the daylily field in good time; if weeds grow thickly, they can easily cause pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of the daylily.
Weeding can use either traditional manual weeding or herbicides suitable for the large-flowered daylily. Sethoxydim, also known as Nabuqing, is a selective pre-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment agent that can control grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass and bermudagrass; penoxalin, also known as amine nitramine, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent, very effective before emergence against annual narrow-leaved weeds and certain broad-leaved weeds, such as crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail and annual bluegrass and other annual grass weeds, and lambsquarters, amaranth, chickweed, little blazing star and shepherd's purse and other broad-leaved weeds; metolachlor, also known as isopropyl metolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent, used to control barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail and lovegrass and other annual grass weeds, and also controls amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, little blazing star, chickweed and other small-seeded broad-leaved weeds and rice flatsedge, with poor control of perennial weeds and most broad-leaved weeds; fluazifop-butyl is a post-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment herbicide, effective against annual and perennial grass weeds, but ineffective against broad-leaved weeds and sedges. In addition there are oryzalin (Surflan), isoxaben mixtures (Snapshot) and others, all of which can be used to control weeds in large-flowered daylily fields.
Pest and disease control: rust, leaf spot and leaf blight are diseases that daylily is very prone to. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease in the middle and later stages of daylily; it begins in early May, is most severe from June to July, and gradually stops only after October, damaging leaves and flower scapes. At first a small number of yellow powdery spots appear on the leaves, then gradually spread to the whole leaf, until the whole plant dies; when the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and ferrous sulfate can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by Fusarium fungi and is the main disease of daylily at the seedling stage; it begins from late March to early April, with the peak from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib; after perforation it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients, the leaf tip turns yellow first, and finally the whole leaf wilts and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.;
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins in early May and is most severe in early to mid-June, mainly damaging leaves and also damaging flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage onward; at the middle edge of the leaf, water-soaked small spots first appear, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, and finally turning grayish white; in severe cases the whole leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying 50% carbendazim 600 to 800 times dilution, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main insect pests of daylily are red spiders and aphids. Red spiders are tiny red mites shaped like spiders, mainly piercing and sucking sap on the underside of leaves, causing grayish-white small spots at the damaged sites. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder and others. Aphids mainly occur in May, first damaging leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on flower buds; the damaged flower buds are thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, tobacco lime water and others. In addition, in propagation trials of the large-flowered daylily it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to the large-flowered daylily, and control measures should be taken in good time.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, natal lily and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Amaryllis in the Amaryllidaceae family. The amaryllis flower stem stands gracefully upright, with 4 to 6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing to the eye. Because the amaryllis resembles clivia in appearance, it also has the elegant name "gentleman's red." In Tianjin it is called "rouge cave," which is quite apt. It is now widely cultivated around the world; besides potted ornamental use, it is planted in open-field gardens to form community landscapes and add to the garden scenery. In recent years, horticulturists in Europe and America, for the convenience of flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large; the main producing country, the Netherlands, had amaryllis sales output value reaching 19.1 million USD in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France and Spain all have certain production. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In China, during 1912 to 1949, Nanjing, Shanghai and other places already had potted ornamental amaryllis, and in the 1970s planting began around open-field gardens in southern China as landscape ornament. In recent years, many fine varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental use, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Commonly propagated by sowing and division.
Sowing propagation: sow indoors in pots in May to June; the suitable germination temperature is 18 to 22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management at the seedling stage; when there are 3 to 4 true leaves, carry out the first transplanting, maintaining a certain spacing between plants. From sowing to flowering takes 3 to 4 years.
Division propagation: potted amaryllis is divided when repotting in February to March. Before dividing, first remove the old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them separately according to bulb size; generally flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. When planting, one third of the bulb is exposed above the soil surface. Planted in March, it flowers in April to May.
In recent years, scale cutting, scoring and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: choose well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the outer overly mature scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must carry a stem plate. In September insert the scales into a sand bed, keep moist at 18 to 20°C, and small bulbs form and roots develop at the base that same year. In the following spring new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they must continue to be cultured for 3 years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: choose bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm, soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash with water, cut off one third of the bulb, lightly score the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place flat on a sand bed, keep room temperature at 18 to 22°C, maintain relatively high air humidity, and after 2 months several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, use loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. A flowering bulb with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm needs a 12 cm pot; commercial cultivation also uses 18 to 20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is based on one third of the bulb being exposed above the pot soil. Water little at first planting; when flower stems or leaves appear, keep the pot soil moist. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month; after the flower stem emerges, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote robust and plump bulbs. In commercial production, amaryllis is often forced: flowering bulbs pretreated at low temperature of 5°C for 50 days flower 6 weeks after planting under conditions of soil temperature 21°C and room temperature 17 to 19°C. According to trial reports, soaking bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying amaryllis leaves with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If amaryllis seed is to be collected, artificial pollination should be carried out, which can increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin, they easily lose water and lose germination ability, so they should be sown immediately after collection. If producing bulbs, cut off the flower stem promptly after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8 to 10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases are viral disease, leaf spot disease and nematode disease. Leaf spot damages leaves and flowers.
11. Chinese peony
Chinese peony is one of China's traditional famous flowers, with a cultivation history of more than 3,000 years. The flower form of Chinese peony is variable, the flower colors are gorgeous, the green leaves are elegant, and the clumps are full; used for greening and ornament, it can lead people into a wonderland of endless beauty.
Chinese peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m. The flower is borne singly at the top of the current year's branch, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top; the flower stalk is relatively long, and the flowers are divided into single and double forms, with colors including white, yellow, pink, purple, rose and many other colors.
Chinese peony has strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open field in most areas of northern China. However, its heat resistance is relatively poor, and it stops growing in hot summers. It likes sunlight, but can also grow and flower under light shade. It likes moisture, but fears waterlogging, and is suitable for growing in deep, fertile and well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkali land is not suitable for cultivation.
Chinese peony is commonly propagated by division, and the best time for division is from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, dry them in the shade until slightly wilted, then take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point and cut it apart with a sharp knife, and apply charcoal powder to the cut to prevent rot. To promote new root germination, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm long and shortened. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristic of Chinese peony is that after sprouting in spring it grows rapidly and flowers, and after flowering it stops growing upward and the number of leaves no longer increases. At the end of autumn all aboveground stems and leaves die, and underground the long spindle-shaped fleshy roots accumulate sufficient nutrients, buried deeply in the soil, with dormant young buds at the root crown, which break through the soil when spring returns the following year.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layer and loose fertility. Before planting, apply plenty of base fertilizer, preferably well-rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1,500 kg/mu), and deep plow and level it before use.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumnal Equinox); for planting density, ornamental use is generally 80 cm x 70 cm, planting about 1,200 plants per mu, and production use can be 60 cm x 50 cm, planting about 2,200 plants per mu. When planting, the hole is generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter; the depth of the seedling should be such that the buds are 3 cm below the ground surface; finally fill the hole with soil, tamp it firm and pile a 10 cm mound to prevent cold, preserve soil moisture and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, water appropriately for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Intertillage and weeding: in the following spring, before Chinese peony sprouts, level the soil mound from the previous autumn; during the growing period, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing in prolonged drought.
(2) Removing side buds: besides the bud borne at the top of the stem, Chinese peony also bears 3 to 6 side buds in the leaf axils of the upper stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated, making the main bud flower large and full; if the side buds are kept, the flowers are abundant and the ornamental period is long. This can be controlled independently according to need.
(3) Watering and topdressing: Chinese peony has fleshy roots, a well-developed root system and strong drought resistance, so generally watering is not needed; if spring drought or summer drought lasts a long time, water once or twice, preferably with uncontaminated river water; in winter, depending on whether the soil is dry or wet, one overwintering watering can also be given. Chinese peony grows vigorously and has a large fertilizer requirement, so it can be fertilized twice a year: before winter begins, apply some slow-release fertilizer, such as well-rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried night soil (1,500 kg/mu); before or after flowering, apply some quick-acting fertilizer, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium (10 to 15 kg/mu); foliar topdressing can also be combined, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or trace-element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15 to 20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: mainly leaf spot, including red spot and brown spot. The peak period is generally in summer and autumn when temperature is high and humidity is high; in the early stage of the disease, spray 40% carbendazim 800 times dilution on the leaf surface for control; in severe cases, spray 40% carbendazim 500 times dilution once every 15 days, and 2 to 3 times is enough for control.
(2) Insect pests: mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak period in July to August, use 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl liquid, mix with organic fertilizer or sand to form poisoned bait, spread evenly, and then deep hoe. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes, highly transmissible and relatively serious in damage to Chinese peony; symptoms are different-sized nodules on fibrous roots, weak plant growth, yellowing, scorching and early falling of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes short until death. For control, use 30% carbofuran granules 25 g/sq m, evenly applied to the affected plot during the rainy summer period, then deep hoe 5 to 10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals, mainly living in the soil layer within 5 to 20 cm, when applying the pesticide, it must absolutely not be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant; in the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. After the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the daylight hours shorten, it can begin flower bud differentiation, bear flower buds, and bloom gorgeous flowers through frost.
Chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climate and soil conditions; it is cultivated everywhere in China and can grow in slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and the flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. At temperatures above 10°C, dormant buds can sprout, and 20 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for growth. Chrysanthemum is drought-tolerant, fears waterlogging, and likes loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate and sufficient sunlight.
Chrysanthemum can be propagated by division, cuttings, grafting, sowing and many other methods. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively complicated propagation processes; without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as selection of fine varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also only used in nurseries when large numbers of seedlings are needed; for home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: before sowing, apply plenty of well-rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, deep plow and harrow finely, and make flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, and after sowing cover with a shade net and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, cloudy and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be a fine spray to prevent the soil surface from crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be sown directly; in southern China they can be sown in February, while in cold northern regions they can be sown in early April, with about 0.2 kg of seed per mu.
2. Division propagation: in mid-to-late March, dig out the old chrysanthemum greens stubble, expose the root crown, cut off the side shoots that already have roots together with old roots, and transplant them to the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted and rotted organic fertilizer. Cut 8 to 10 cm long shoots with 3 to 5 nodes, remove the base leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist, avoid waterlogging, provide shade in high-temperature seasons, and when temperatures are lower, build a plastic film arched shed to keep warm and moist. Generally after 15 days they can be transplanted to the field.
Some people may like to put chrysanthemums in a vase, so here are a few tips:
1. Before placing chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the leaves on the lower part of the flower stem that may be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2 to 3 weeks, while the leaves quickly turn yellow; leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make the chrysanthemum flowering period last, not only should the water be changed every day, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water, so that the water uptake channels remain unobstructed at all times.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase likewise need certain nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet into the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1 to 2 drops of bleach or a little bleach can be put into the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dose of bleach should be increased or decreased as appropriate according to water volume, number of flowers and bleach purity).
13. Wax begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-tolerant, and fears exposure to the sun and rain. The single leaves are alternate, ovate to long ovate, and the leaf color includes green, dark red and so on. Flower colors include bright red, pink, white and so on, and it flowers in all four seasons.
Sowing propagation can be done in all four seasons. First compact the pot soil and soak it through. Because the seeds are tiny, mix them with fine sand, scatter evenly, and cover lightly with fine sand or not at all. Cover with a glass plate or film to retain moisture, and they will soon germinate. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, move them into pots, at which time dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: cut 7 to 10 cm cuttings, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert them into sandy soil. Keep the pot soil moist, and they will soon take root; this can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management: the pot soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growing period, moderate moisture is required, and apply composted dilute liquid fertilizer once every 1 to 2 weeks. Wax begonia likes light, but fears direct sun exposure; too strong light easily makes the leaves curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes the plants grow thin and weak, affecting flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that it is easily damaged by freezing. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state, and should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded place, and fertilization should stop at this time. To make the plant shape full, pinch the growing tips several times during the growing period, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After wax begonia has been grown for 1 to 2 years, it appears aged; it can be heavily pruned from the base to promote new shoots, and after pinching treatment, the original luxuriant posture can be restored. Repot once a year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as hanging bell begonia and lantern begonia, is an evergreen subshrub of the genus Fuchsia in the Onagraceae family. The flower is borne singly in the leaf axils at the ends of branches, with a long stalk; the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular, often hanging downward. Flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white and so on; it flowers in all four seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with different plant shapes and flower forms.
Fuchsia is native to South America, and likes a mild, cool and humid environment; its optimum growth temperature is 10°C to 15°C. In summer, it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter, it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate lady among flowers." Its requirements for fertilizer and water differ according to the season; spring and autumn require relatively large amounts, while in the hot summer season fuchsia enters a semi-dormant state, and watering must be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Measures such as ventilation and cooling should be taken, and water should often be sprayed on the leaves, placing the plant under a shade shed to ensure safe passage through summer. After autumn cools it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch the growing tips and shape at appropriate times to promote side branches. Generally after pinching, it flowers in two to three weeks, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The pot soil is best as fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam; it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
Fuchsia sets seed with difficulty after flowering, so cutting propagation is usually used; it can be done throughout the year, but spring is suitable. One-year-old young shoots are the easiest to root; choose robust, plump top shoots with three or four nodes, 5 cm to 10 cm long, keep 3 small leaves at the upper part, and insert them into sandy soil to the depth of one node; maintain a temperature of 15°C to 20°C; spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and they will root after two weeks. Pot the seedlings promptly with culture soil, and pinch the growing tips promptly to promote side branches. Old plants are repotted every spring, combined with heavy pruning for propagation, and the surrounding old roots are cut off to rejuvenate the plant. Spring cuttings have an advantage, namely that the seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance, and mostly do not lose leaves during the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days flower after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old." If the plant loses leaves in summer, it should generally be cut back immediately after the Beginning of Autumn to promote new branches, and liquid fertilizer should be topdressed, so that it can flower in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has vigorous vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is indispensable. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the plant itself can be divided 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, and only then can one grow clivia with ease and get twice the result with half the effort; the clivia grown will then be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature and humidity factors. Here is a discussion of these six aspects:
1. Water: as is well known, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water, but different plants have different requirements for water, and the water quality in different places is also different. Clivia's requirements for water are as follows:
The pH of water: clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH value of about 6.5. The pH of water differs from place to place; if it is not neutral or slightly acidic water, improvement should be considered. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: tap water, river water, lake water and so on differ in water quality from one another; clean water rich in minerals is best. Tap water has been treated by artificially added chemicals, and should generally be stored for several days before being used to water flowers.
Water content in the soil: the suitable water content should be 20% to 40%, and it is best that it is neither dry nor wet. If the water content in the soil is too high for a long time, the air permeability of the soil will become poor, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will dehydrate the plant, causing the roots to shrivel and wither.
Watering method: the principle of watering is not to water if not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving a little water at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The dryness mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but that the water content in the soil is relatively low, which is the time to water. People who often grow clivia usually tap the flower pot with a finger, judging the water content in the soil by the sound produced by the tap. If the sound produced by tapping is dull, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively high and there is no need to water; conversely, if the sound is crisp, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively low and water should be given immediately. The reason the dragonfly-skimming practice is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the root system, almost equivalent to not watering at all.;
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large; watering time is best in the morning and evening; at noon in summer, when the temperature is very high, it is not suitable to water; watering should avoid the flower center, especially during the period when the scape is emerging and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: the roots of clivia are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile, water-permeable and well-aerated soil, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil texture: humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The best humus soil is oak leaves (oak tree leaves); leaves of other trees such as larch, hazel, pear and apple can also be used, but attention must be paid to pesticide factors. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50%; too high a rotting degree is not good, with poor water permeability and air permeability.
To further improve the structure of humus soil and increase water permeability and air permeability, some larch pine needles, carbon from burned rice husks (not ash), washed river sand and furnace cinder can also be added, in a proportion of 10% to 20%. Compacted, barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, the pH of soil differs from region to region; neutral or slightly acidic soil should be chosen, with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: as the saying goes, "For a crop to bloom, it all depends on fertilizer." Fertilizer is an indispensable and important source of nutrition for the vigorous growth of clivia; clivia is a fertilizer-loving flower, and mature clivia must have sufficient fertility.
Fertilization of clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development status and season of the clivia. Too much or too little fertilizer is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and the leaves will wrinkle or become stunted; too little will lack nutrients, and the clivia will grow slowly, with leaves obviously narrowing, becoming soft and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: fertilizers are divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds and so on, after being fried, with a small amount of bone meal added, make a very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April to May in spring, September to October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: sesame, peanut, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed) and so on, after full fermentation, make a good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer; its effect is quick but its fertility is short, and it can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied many times, to prevent excessive fertilizer from burning the roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, and liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the leaves or the heart of the clivia, to avoid leaf rot or heart rot; after each fertilization, use a spray bottle to spray clean water to rinse the leaves or heart.
What has been discussed above is all organic fertilizer; inorganic fertilizer can also be used, and takes effect faster. Clivia growth requires nutritional balance, not only the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have adverse effects on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason people have long mostly used organic fertilizer.
4. Light: light is an indispensable element for clivia photosynthesis. Sufficient light is needed; indoor clivia should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light); summer light is strong, so shading treatment is needed to prevent scorching the leaves. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism; regularly adjust the light-facing angle to make the plant shape neat, and if conditions permit, make the direction of leaf extension consistent with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean; often wipe dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: the suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C to 25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer, above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to lower the temperature; above 30°C and with low humidity, the leaf luster will fade; high temperature with much water will make the leaves grow too long; high temperature may even cause high fever disease, leading to the whole plant rotting.
Below 10°C, growth and development will be slow; below 5°C, growth will be inhibited; below 0°C, the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: clivia likes a warm and humid environment; low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves; dry air, wind and sun in the open field will make the leaves lose their delicate luster, becoming rough and dull in color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, succulent and glossy, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect, and the reason lies precisely here. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve "six preventions" and "six don'ts."
1. Prevent direct sunlight, do not expose to the sun. In summer, clivia should be shaded from strong light all day. Use the slanting sunlight in the early morning to give it a little sun for a while each day, enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperature, do not let it dry out. The suitable temperature for clivia in summer is 18°C to 25°C; it is best to place it indoors with air conditioning, and a shaded, ventilated place on a balcony is also acceptable. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been sunned for two or three days, watering once a day after 6 p.m., and do not let the pot soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth, do not fertilize. Summer is the dormant period of clivia; stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity are effective measures. If too much fertilizer has been applied to the pot soil or the fertilizer effect is relatively strong, pour out the upper soil of the flower pot, mix in 1/3 to 2/3 sand, mix evenly and put it back into the pot; this not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also has a cooling effect.
4. Prevent dust pollution, do not water with dirty water. The leaf surface of clivia should be kept clean; once a week, dip fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, do not use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suited to cultivation in loose, air-permeable, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH value of about 7.0.
6. Prevent disease, do not cause infection. When changing soil or wiping leaves, the movements should be gentle, to prevent roots and leaves from being wounded and exuding sap, causing infection and leading to decay.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, from the coastal low-mountain forest zones of Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Cyclamen likes a cool, humid environment with sufficient light. The suitable growth temperature is 15 to 20°C; below 10°C, growth vigor weakens, flower color becomes dull, and it easily withers; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy; in hot summer regions of China, cyclamen is then in a dormant or semi-dormant state; while in the Kunming area of Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, with a cool and humid summer, it does not go dormant and continues normal growth. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily damaged and rots to death. At the seedling stage it has relatively strong resistance to high temperature. During the growing period, the relative humidity should preferably be 70% to 75%. Cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The suitable temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15 to 18°C. During the growing period, the required light intensity is 28,000 to 36,000 Lx; if higher than 45,000 Lx or lower than 15,000 Lx, the photosynthesis intensity drops significantly. However, it is also not tolerant of strong summer sunlight exposure, and should be cultivated under a shade shed. It often self-pollinates, and can also cross-pollinate. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for propagation and cultivation of potted cyclamen: cultivation techniques
Mostly propagated by sowing. Sow in September and it flowers the following winter. It can also be propagated by the cut tuber method, but it easily rots, so it is mostly not used. The key to cultivation is to maintain a cool but not overly wet environment during the summer dormant period. Tubers 2 to 3 years old have the strongest growth, so old tubers are often discarded. Repot once a year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of planted cyclamen
1. Sowing: cyclamen tubers cannot naturally produce small tubers, so sowing is generally used for propagation. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate; if the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing, the seeds must be detoxified. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10 to 20 minutes, and rinse clean; finally soak in a 35 to 40°C colloidal solution, treat for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and then sow. Determine the sowing period according to the time flowers are supplied. Generally sow 13 months before the flower supply time, and even early-flowering varieties require 8 to 10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day and Spring Festival, sowing is usually done in September to October.
2. Tuber division method: for fine varieties of cyclamen that set seed poorly, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber longitudinally from the top into several pieces, each piece needing to carry a bud eye; apply plant ash or charcoal powder to the cuts, let them dry slightly, and then pot and plant. Careful maintenance and management are needed. This method has a small propagation coefficient, the tubers easily rot, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is not attractive, and the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat, so it is seldom used.
2. Tuber division method For superior cyclamen varieties that do not set seed well, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tubers are about to sprout, cut the tuber lengthwise from the top into several pieces, each piece must have a growth bud, coat the cut surfaces with plant ash or charcoal powder, let them dry slightly, and then plant them in pots. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a low propagation rate, the tubers rot easily, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is unattractive, the tubers exposed above the soil surface are not round and neat, and it is rarely used.
In recent years, various aspects of vegetative propagation of cyclamen have been studied internationally. The successful methods include: 1. Tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and culturing them under sterile conditions to form regenerated plants; 2. Cuttings using leaf buds with some tuber tissue attached; 3. In the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber, then cutting it vertically into sections to form regenerated shoots, etc. The third method is described in detail below. The cyclamen tuber is formed by the abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl. After the upper part is cut off, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface and then form regenerated plants. By dividing one tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump and well-developed tuber, and divide it 1 to 2 months after flowering; the suitable period for division is May to June. First, adjust the soil moisture in the pot, because if division is done under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap. This bleeding not only affects growth vigor, but especially hinders the formation of adventitious buds, and also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering should be controlled and soil moisture reduced. When the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, about 1/3 of the tuber in thickness. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter below 4 cm) or checkerboard cuts (for tubers with a diameter above 4 cm) vertically, with the depth not injuring the root system. If checkerboard cutting is used, the incision spacing is 1 cm; a tuber 6 cm in diameter can be cut into 27 pieces.
Immediately after division, cover the flower pot with plastic film and carry out curing treatment at 30°C until the wound forms periderm, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20 to 30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture at the time of division. The pot can be weighed together with the soil at the time of division, and every 2 to 3 days the lost water can be replenished according to weight. Seventy to eighty days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C to let them gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water supplied and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants are basically formed and can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11 to 14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot; it is simple and easy, requiring no complex technology or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals are uniform in character; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great application prospects. It can be used to propagate clonal lines of superior varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of F1 hybrid seeds.
III. To meet the demand for flowers at different periods, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjust the sowing date. By taking advantage of the strong tolerance of seedlings to high temperatures, place them in a cool and ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, thereby advancing the flowering period. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and flowering occurs in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Control environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy, or to break or prolong the dormancy of dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, providing appropriate shade, and placing them in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C can allow them to continue flowering until June to July.
3. Use certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote dormancy of the bulbs in order to control the flowering period. For example, injecting aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds or fumigating with them can break dormancy. For example, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, placing 0.5 cm of ether and treating for 24 to 48 hours can quickly break the dormancy of cyclamen tubers, restore growth, and advance flowering. For another example, placing cloth balls soaked with ester solutions such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside cyclamen tubers about to sprout can prevent the tubers from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Pest and disease control of cyclamen
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae, and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages petioles and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and give off a foul odor. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil must be thoroughly disinfected; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shade; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round and sunken; later the lesions enlarge and bear black conidia, which disperse and infect through water. Control methods: remove infected leaves and petioles and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500- to 600-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by the cyst nematode Heterodelaradicicola. Soil temperature of 25 to 30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage; it invades the roots and forms root galls. Affected plants grow weakly, lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: soil disinfection; burn affected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill the nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, petioles to bend, growth to be inhibited, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with a 1500-fold dilution of dimethoate. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage; spray with a 1500-fold dilution of dicofol.
17. Narcissus
In the cold winter months, narcissus can spread its green leaves and produce elegant, fragrant flowers in a dish of clear water. Placed on a table indoors, it brings people vitality and a sense of spring.
According to Chinese flower introductions: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carving and shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is maintained at about 15°C, there is sufficient sunlight, and you water frequently and change the water often, it can bloom in 25 to 30 days. However, several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise it will stop growing and enter dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic-like leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise water deterioration will cause pollution and root rot.
Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be determined by people themselves. If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival, you can plant the bulb (narcissus head) in a pot about 20 days to 300 days before the Spring Festival. After being potted, it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose humus soil. Before planting, peel off the dry, withered scale layers on the outside of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, then add humus soil to 3 cm below the rim of the pot. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it to make the humus soil compact, then place the basal plate of the narcissus bulb in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, then water thoroughly, and place the flower pot in a cool place. After 5 days, when roots have grown from the basal plate, place the pot in a sunny place for cultivation. When watering in soil culture, pay attention to watering only when dry and watering thoroughly, that is, do not water if the soil is not dry, and once you water, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use clean, washed fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot to 3 cm below the rim, then place the narcissus head with old scale pieces and old roots removed into the flower pot filled with fine sand, add about 1 cm more sand, so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1 cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, place it in a sunny place until flowering. When using sand culture for narcissus heads, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water deficiency and affect flower root growth. Watering should also be arranged in the morning and evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also remove the old scale pieces and old roots cleanly, then place them in a narcissus flower pot for cultivation, add water to about 1 cm above the lower bulb of the narcissus head, place in a cool place, and after roots grow from the basal plate, place in a sunny place until flowering. For water culture of narcissus, it is best to change the water every day. On the one hand, this prevents water deterioration and pollution that cause root rot; on the other hand, changing the water daily keeps the water clean and the roots white and beautiful.
Narcissus carving and shaping
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in graceful and varied forms, the flower head needs to be carved. The specific method is: first peel off the dry, withered scales on the outside of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth tendency of the buds, and use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small pointed knife to gently make a horizontal cut from left to right on the bulb 2 cm from the basal plate, then make one vertical cut on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales layer by layer within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines, and at the same time dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and the pale yellow flower scape are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scape: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become abnormal and likewise bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping differ. The carved and shaped narcissus head should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing downward to remove the mucus secreted from the wound, changing the water every day, soaking for about 2 to 3 days. After the mucus is cleaned away, take it out and cover the basal plate (root plate) with absorbent cotton. Then place the carved surface facing upward, put it into a narcissus pot, add water, and cultivate in a cool place. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the roots from the basal plate have grown to about 1 cm, place the narcissus pot in a sunny place for cultivation. Remember that during cultivation the temperature should not exceed 20°C; change the water frequently, once a day; spray water frequently, 1 to 2 times a day; and provide frequent sunlight. In this way, the flowers cultivated will be luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful in form.;

Planting and planning of garden and horticultural plants

The process of urbanization has driven the prosperity of urban landscape design across the country. As urban functions gradually improve, parks, green squares, ecological corridors, and suburban scenic areas have increasingly become modern symbols of cities and inevitable ways to enhance urban environmental quality, improve quality of life, and satisfy cultural pursuits. It can be seen that the concepts of landscape planning and design are gradually deepening and improving, and their scope is also expanding.

1. Configuration

According to the ecological habits of plants and the requirements of garden layout, rationally configure various plants in the garden (trees, shrubs, flowers, turf, and ground cover plants, etc.) so as to give play to their garden functions and ornamental characteristics. Garden plant configuration is an important part of garden planning and design.

The configuration of garden plants includes two aspects: on the one hand, the configuration among various plants, considering the selection of plant species, the combination of tree groups, composition in plan and elevation, color, seasonal appearance, and garden artistic conception; on the other hand, the configuration between garden plants and other garden elements such as rockery, water bodies, buildings, garden paths, etc.

2. Seasonal appearance

The outward appearance plants display in different seasons. During the growth process throughout the four seasons, the shape and color of leaves, flowers, and fruits change with the seasons. When flowering, fruiting, or when leaf color changes, they have high ornamental value. Garden plant configuration should make full use of the seasonal characteristics of plants.

In different climatic zones, the timing of plant seasonal appearance differs. The spring seasonal appearance in Beijing comes later than in Hangzhou, while the autumn seasonal appearance appears earlier than in Hangzhou. Even in the same region, whether the climate is normal or not often affects the timing and color of seasonal appearance. Low temperature and drought delay the sprouting and flowering of vegetation; red leaves generally need a large day-night temperature difference to turn red. If the frost period occurs too early, the leaves fall before turning red, and beautiful autumn colors cannot be produced. Factors such as soil and maintenance management also affect seasonal changes, so seasonal changes can be controlled artificially. For exhibition needs, special treatments can even be used on potted plants to force or delay flowering or to make plants with different flowering periods bloom at the same time.

The use of the seasonal appearance of plants with high ornamental value and distinctive characteristics in garden plant configuration can give people hints of the seasons, enhance the sense of season, and express the unique artistic effect of plants in garden landscapes. For example, mountain flowers are brilliant in spring, lotus reflects the sun in summer, fruits fill the garden in autumn, and wintersweet fragrance drifts in winter. The requirement for a garden to have scenery in all four seasons refers to the overall landscape of a region or a park; in local scenic areas, the characteristics of one or two seasons are often highlighted, mostly by using a single species or several plants planted in mass groups. For example, the peach and willow of Su Causeway in Hangzhou are spring scenery, Quyuan Fenghe is summer scenery, Manjuelong osmanthus is autumn scenery, and Gushan snow-viewing and plum appreciation is winter scenery. In order to avoid the phenomenon of dullness during periods when seasonal appearance is not obvious, methods such as mixed configuration of trees with different flowering periods and increasing evergreen trees and herbaceous flowers can be used to prolong the ornamental period. For example, in Wuxi Plum Garden, osmanthus is mixed among plum blossoms; plums are viewed in spring, osmanthus in autumn, and in winter the evergreen osmanthus leaves can still be seen. The peony garden in Huagang Guanyu in Hangzhou is mainly peonies, configured with red maple, boxwood, crape myrtle, pine, etc.; after the peonies fade, it still maintains a good landscape effect.

3. Lawn

Densely planted perennial low herbaceous plants that are artificially trimmed into smooth artificial grassland are called lawns; long grassy areas that are not trimmed are called grassland. The main herbaceous plants used for urban and garden lawns include Zoysia japonica, buffalo grass, Bermuda grass, carpet grass, St. Augustine grass, centipede grass, ryegrass, bluegrass, and bentgrass, etc.

Lawns are generally set in front of houses, around large buildings, in squares or forest clearings, for viewing, recreation, or use as sports grounds. Regular-style grassland already existed in ancient Western gardens. In the mid-18th century, after the English natural landscape garden appeared, natural-style lawns began to be used on a large scale in gardens. Ancient Chinese imperial parks and hunting parks had large areas of open woodland and grassland; lawns appeared only in modern gardens.

Lawns have the following classification methods:

According to the combination of plant materials, they can be divided into: 1. Pure lawn. A lawn made of one kind of plant material. 2. Mixed lawn. A lawn composed of multiple plant materials. 3. Flower-studded lawn. A lawn mainly composed of perennial low grasses or grass-like plants, mixed with a small amount of herbaceous flowers.

According to use, lawns can be divided into: 1. Recreation lawn. Can be opened for people to enter for rest, walking, games, and other outdoor activities. Generally, grass species with fine leaves, greater toughness, and greater tolerance to trampling are selected. 2. Ornamental lawn. Not open, and people cannot enter for recreation. Generally, grass species with uniform green color, a long green period, and tolerance to both heat and cold are selected. 3. Sports field lawn. Different grass species are selected according to the requirements of different sports; some require grass species with fine, soft leaves, some require grass species with tough leaves, and some require grass species with well-developed underground stems. 4. Traffic safety lawn. Mainly set along land transportation lines, especially on both sides of expressways, and on airport aprons. 5. Soil-conserving and slope-protecting lawn. Used to prevent soil and water erosion and prevent dust from flying. Mainly grass species with rapid growth, well-developed root systems, or creeping habit are selected.

Lawns are mainly used in the following aspects:

Environmental protection. In garden green spaces, both lawns and trees play roles in purifying air, preventing heat and lowering temperature, adsorbing dust, and reducing noise, and can protect the environment and maintain ecological balance. Lawn grass individuals are small, numerous, occupy little space, grow rapidly, have strong adaptability, are easy to survive, and produce quick greening effects. Grass grows close to the ground, and its function in preventing dust from flying and soil and water loss is remarkable. Lawns form ventilation channels in green spaces and can improve the living environment in tropical areas.

Garden art. Lawn space is similar to water space and square space; it can open up broad sight lines, guide the line of sight, increase depth and layers of scenery, and fully express the beauty of terrain.

Urban construction. Lawns are often used in places in modern cities that need low green spaces, such as along roads, beneath high-voltage power lines, and above underground facilities where the soil layer is relatively thin.

Construction

There are mainly four methods for lawn construction: 1. Directly sowing grass seed. Generally carried out in spring and autumn. Cool-season grasses mostly use this method. 2. Directly planting grass. Generally carried out in spring and summer. Northern China mostly uses this method. 3. Propagation by stem and branch segments. Generally carried out in summer or rainy seasons. Warm-season lawns mostly use this method. 4. Directly laying grass blocks. It can be done in all four seasons in warm regions; in northern China, this method is used in summer and autumn to lay sports field lawns.

At present, the method of directly sowing to build lawns is widely used. The spray-seeding method can be used to spray a mixture of grass seed, adhesive, and fertilizer onto rocky slopes to force grass to grow; grass seed can also be placed in advance on non-woven fabric to germinate and grow into lawn vegetation belts, which are then laid on the ground to form lawns. The advantages of the direct sowing method are: less grass seed is used, distribution is uniform, seedlings emerge neatly, weed growth can be prevented, seeds sown on slopes will not be washed away by water, and various patterns can be formed. In addition, seeds or stem and branch segments can be used to produce grass blocks in advance under soilless or thin-soil conditions, or strip-shaped grass blocks can be rolled into grass rolls, which can be used for laying lawns indoors or outdoors at any time; after laying, the shape is immediately formed. Lawn construction is currently trending toward factory-based seedling cultivation.

Maintenance

The key points of lawn maintenance are: 1. Continuously remove weeds in the first year. 2. Prune in time. Prune when the grass grows to 4-10 cm high, and the amount pruned each time should not exceed half of the grass height. Lawns generally remain 2-5 cm high. 3. During the growing season, it is advisable to apply granular compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Generally applied after pruning and before sprinkler irrigation. 4. Lawns should not be used excessively. Periods of use and maintenance periods should be stipulated, and they should be opened in turn in different zones on a regular basis. 5. Pay attention to the prevention and control of lawn pests and diseases. Replant in time and replace dead parts.

4. Flower bed

A garden facility in which ornamental plants are planted in a certain area of bordered ground according to a formal or semi-formal pattern to express the mass beauty of flowers.

Classification

There are several classification methods: 1. According to form, they can be divided into two types: three-dimensional flower beds and flat flower beds. Flat flower beds can further be divided by composition form into three types: regular, natural, and mixed. 2. According to ornamental season, they can be divided into spring flower beds, summer flower beds, autumn flower beds, and winter flower beds. 3. According to planting materials, they can be divided into annual and biennial herbaceous flower beds, bulb flower beds, aquatic flower beds, and special-category flower beds (such as chrysanthemum beds and aster beds), etc. 4. According to expression form, they can be divided into: flower-cluster flower beds, which use flower clusters high in the center and low at the edges to form color-block patterns to express the beauty of flower colors; embroidered-style flower beds or carpet-pattern flower beds, which rely on floral patterns, usually using low-growing colorful foliage plants as the main material, not limited by flowering period, and appropriately matched with some short herbaceous flowers with small, dense blooms, giving a particularly long ornamental period. 5. According to the way flower beds are used, they can be divided into single flower beds, continuous flower beds, and group flower beds. In modern times, mobile flower beds have also appeared, composed of many potted flowers, suitable for paved ground and indoor decoration.

The paper Garden Plant Configuration and Planning comes from

Design

First, the factors to be expressed, such as the garden scenery theme, position, form, and color combination, must be considered from the surrounding overall environment. In specific design, graph paper can be used, at a scale of 1:20 to 1:100, to draw in detail the patterns, the flower species or varieties configured, the number of plants, height, planting distance, etc., with an attached implementation description. Designers must have a full understanding of garden art theory as well as the growth and flowering habits, ecological habits, and ornamental characteristics of plant materials. A good design must take into account continuous flowering from spring to autumn, and make plans for replacing flower species in different seasons as well as changes in patterns.

For herbaceous flowers used in flower beds, varieties should be selected that have neat plant form, many flowers, uniform flowering and a long flowering period, bright flower colors, tolerance to dryness, resistance to pests and diseases, and dwarf habit. Commonly used ones include snapdragon, daisy, calendula, aster, cockscomb, dianthus, petunia, salvia, marigold, pansy, zinnia, etc. (see Garden Plants).

Flower beds are mainly used in front of buildings, at entrances, in squares, beside roads in regular-style gardens, or on lawns in natural-style gardens. The traditional Chinese ornamental flower form is the flower terrace, mostly raised several tens of centimeters above the ground, with a border built of brick or stone, and soil filled in the middle for planting flowers and plants. Sometimes the edge of a flower bed is surrounded by a low railing, such as a peony terrace or peony railing, etc.

5. Flower border

A kind of flower bed in which shrubs and ornamental herbaceous plants are planted in a relatively natural way, forming a long belt, mainly for viewing from one side. The English term flowerborder is also translated as flower border or flower path.

Flower borders are divided by the plants grown into annual plant flower borders, perennial plant flower borders, and mixed planting flower borders, with the latter being the most common. In design, flower borders should be mainly composed of perennial flowers, appropriately matched with some annual and biennial herbaceous flowers and bulb flowers, or trimmed low shrubs. Generally, taller species are planted at the back and shorter ones at the front, but stiff rows of tall and short before and after should be avoided; occasionally a small number of tall plants can be slightly projected forward to form an irregular and naturally interesting effect. To strengthen the color effect, various flowers should be planted in clumps and groups; attention should also be paid to the coordination of flower color and flowering period among the clumps, requiring a naturally harmonious beauty overall. Hedges, walls, or shrub thickets are often used as the background. The width of a flower border is generally 1-2 m. If the ground is relatively wide, it is best to leave a 1.2-1.3 m open space between the flower border and the background hedge and plant it with turf or pave it with pebbles as a separation strip, so as to prevent tree roots from affecting the growth of flower border plants and also facilitate the maintenance and management of the plants behind the flower border and the hedge. Since perennial flowers expand their growth area year by year, appropriate space should be left between clumps at the time of initial planting, and annual, biennial, or bulb flowers should be planted to fill the gaps. Perennial flowers can be replanted once every three or four years, or part of the plants can be replaced each year to facilitate renewal and rejuvenation. Usually, attention should be paid to watering and removing weeds and withered flowers and leaves to keep the flower border beautiful and full of vitality. In early winter, semi-hardy types should be covered with fallen leaves, wormwood, and soil for safe overwintering.

6. Hedge

A fence formed by densely planting trees or shrubs in rows, also called green hedge or living hedge.

The main uses of hedges in gardens are: enclosing sites, dividing space, screening or guiding sight lines to focal points of scenery, serving as the background for statues, fountains, small garden facilities, etc., and adopting special planting methods to form special scenic areas (such as maze gardens). In modern times, there is also "hedge landscaping," which combines the garden scenery theme and uses flexible planting methods and shaping and pruning techniques to form garden landscapes resembling strange rocks and huge stones stretching in undulating succession.

China already used hedges thousands of years ago; in the Book of Songs there is "break willow to fence the garden." Later, hedges were mostly used as outer protective fences for residential courtyards and vegetable gardens, and were not fully utilized in courtyard gardens. Hedges were widely used in European courtyard gardens, and in the 16th to 17th centuries they were often used as edging for roads and flower beds. In the 17th to 18th centuries, sculptural hedges prevailed, with the tops or ends of hedges processed into the shapes of birds and beasts; in the formal gardens of emperors and large estate owners, evergreen plants such as boxwood were often pruned into low, narrow hedges and arranged into various geometric shapes. Since the beginning of the 20th century, hedges have been relatively commonly used in newly built parks and urban green spaces in China.

According to height, hedges can be divided into low hedges (below 0.5 m), medium hedges (0.5-1.5 m), and tall hedges (above 1.5 m). The main use of low hedges is to enclose garden areas and serve as decoration; the use of tall hedges is to divide different spaces and screen scenery. Using tall hedges to form enclosed sight lines is far more lively than using walls, etc. As the background for statues, fountains, and artistic facility scenery, tall hedges can especially create a beautiful atmosphere.

According to planting method, hedges can be divided into single-row and double-row types. In Chinese gardens, the double-row type in a quincunx pattern is generally used for quick effect. Some garden designers advocate the single-row type, on the grounds that the single-row type is conducive to balanced plant growth, while the double-row type is not only unfavorable to balanced growth but also costly and prone to weed growth.

According to maintenance and management methods, hedges can be divided into natural style and formal style. The former generally receives only a small amount of pruning to regulate growth vigor, while the latter requires regular shaping and pruning to maintain body shape and appearance. In the same scenic area, natural-style hedges and formal-style hedges can form completely different landscapes, and one must be good at using them.

According to plant species and their ornamental characteristics, hedges can be divided into green hedges, colored-leaf hedges, flower hedges, fruit hedges, branch hedges, thorn hedges, etc., and must be carefully selected and planned according to the garden scenery theme and environmental conditions. For example, even among coniferous tree species used as green hedges, some leaves have a velvet-like texture, giving people a calm, gentle, and relaxed feeling; some leaves are dark green and hard in texture, forming a serious and solemn atmosphere; broad-leaved evergreen tree species are numerous and have even more different effects. Another example is flower hedges: not only do flower color and flowering period differ, but differences in flower size, shape, and presence or absence of fragrance also form scenery with different moods; as for fruit hedges, in addition to differences in size, shape, and color, they can also attract different kinds of birds.

Tree species used as hedges must have habits such as strong sprouting ability, strong branching ability, strong callus-forming ability, tolerance to pruning, strong shade tolerance, and few pests and diseases. The planting method for hedges is to first deeply plow and prepare the soil in the predetermined planting strip, apply base fertilizer, and then, depending on the expected height and type of the hedge, plant at spacings of about 20, 40, and 80 cm respectively. After planting, water thoroughly and prune in time. The principles of maintenance pruning are: for formal-style hedges, the lower branches and leaves should be exposed to as much sunlight as possible to avoid withering due to excessive shading; therefore, the lower part of the crown should be broad and the top should be narrower, generally preferably using a regular trapezoid or bun shape. For natural-style hedges, appropriate measures to regulate tree vigor and renew and rejuvenate must be taken according to the respective habits of different tree species and the local climate.

7. Climbing

A greening form that uses climbing plants to decorate buildings. In addition to beautifying the environment, climbing greening also has effects such as increasing leaf area and green visibility rate, blocking sunlight, lowering temperature, and adsorbing dust to improve environmental quality.

Climbing greening has the following characteristics:

1. Diverse uses. Climbing greening is a decorative art in which climbing plants attach to buildings, and the greening form can change with the shape of the building. Climbing plants can be used to green walls, balconies, and roofs, decorate lamp posts, fences, pavilions, corridors, flower stands, and entrances and exits, etc., and can also screen buildings with poor scenery.

2. Very little land occupation. Because climbing plants grow by attaching to buildings, they occupy very little land. In cities with large populations, high building density, and insufficient greening land, the superiority of climbing greening is especially evident.

3. Easy propagation. Climbing plants are convenient to propagate, grow quickly, cost little, and are simple to manage. Herbaceous climbing plants sown in the same year bring benefits in the same year. Woody climbing plants are usually propagated by cuttings, layering, and other methods, are easy to root, and some can be propagated several times a year.

Selection of climbing plants

Climbing plants have attachment organs. For example, hyacinth bean, morning glory, passionflower, honeysuckle, and wisteria have twining stems; Boston ivy and Virginia creeper have suction cups; grape and loofah have tendrils; creeping fig and ivy have aerial roots; banks rose and wild rose have arching runners or hooked thorns. Climbing greening can be arranged according to the adsorption or attachment ability of climbing plants. For example, plants with suction cups or aerial roots have strong adsorption and are suitable for wall greening coverage; plants with twining stems, tendrils, or hooked thorns have relatively strong attachment ability and are suitable for greening decoration of flower stands, balconies, fences, etc. Plant species can also be selected according to local conditions based on the ecological habits of climbing plants. The more cold-tolerant Boston ivy, honeysuckle, wisteria, Virginia creeper, and wild grape are suitable for cultivation in northern China; in southern China, in addition to the above plants, ivy, star jasmine, trumpet creeper, creeping fig, mucuna, and banks rose can also be used. Sun-loving trumpet creeper, wisteria, and grape are suitable for planting on the sunny side of buildings; shade-tolerant ivy and Boston ivy are suitable for planting in the shady areas of buildings.

8. Ancient trees

Ancient trees refer to old trees that have grown for more than a hundred years; famous trees refer to trees that have social influence and are world-famous, and their age often also exceeds a hundred years. Ancient trees that have grown for more than a hundred years have entered a slow growth stage, with extremely slow trunk diameter increase, and in form give people a sense of having weathered many storms and of vigorous antiquity. Most of the world's long-lived trees are pines and cypresses, oaks, firs, banyans, as well as pagoda trees and ginkgo trees, etc. Famous trees are famous either for their peculiar form and extremely high ornamental value, such as the "Guest-Greeting Pine" in Huangshan, China; or for historical events, such as the Han cypress in the Dai Temple on Mount Tai, planted by Emperor Wu of Han, Liu Che, when he performed the Feng and Shan sacrifices. Or they are famous for legends and strange tales, such as the "Cypress Planted by the Yellow Emperor" in the Xuanyuan Temple in Huangling, Shaanxi, which is nearly 20 m tall and 10 m in circumference at the base. It is the largest cypress in China and is said to have been planted by the legendary Yellow Emperor Xuanyuan, the ancestor of the Chinese nation; another example is the "Hundred-Horsemen Chestnut Tree" on Mount Etna on the island of Sicily in the Mediterranean. It is said that its huge, dense shade once sheltered an ancient king, queen, and the hundred horsemen they brought from wind and rain. The ginkgo tree in Tanzhe Temple in Beijing (called the "Imperial Tree") is said to have been planted in the Liao Dynasty, is more than 30 m tall, and 4 m in diameter.

The significance of protecting ancient and famous trees: 1. Ancient and famous trees are witnesses to history. Many ancient and famous trees have experienced changes of dynasties, the joys and sorrows of the people, and the vicissitudes of the world, and can be used to write explanatory materials and popularize historical knowledge. 2. Ancient and famous trees add splendor to culture and art; they are subjects of poetry and painting by literati of past dynasties and are often accompanied by beautiful legends and wonderful stories. 3. Ancient and famous trees are also fine scenery in scenic spots and historic sites, such as the "Crouching Dragon Pine" in Jietai Temple in Beijing, whose iron-like trunk and twisted branches resemble a soaring dragon, giving people aesthetic enjoyment. 4. Ancient trees are important materials for studying natural history; their complex annual ring structure contains the history of changes in ancient hydrology, ancient geography, and ancient vegetation. 5. Ancient trees have special significance for studying tree physiology. People cannot use tracking methods to study the physiological process of long-lived trees from birth to death, but ancient trees of different ages can exist at the same time, and can display the temporal sequence of tree growth and development as an arrangement in space, which is beneficial to scientific research. 6. Ancient trees have great reference value for tree species planning.

In view of the important value of ancient and famous trees, many countries have carried out research work on protection and rejuvenation. First, organize professional personnel or establish associations of ancient and famous tree enthusiasts to conduct surveys, register them by grade, and keep records and files. Second, adopt various protective measures, such as installing lightning rods to prevent lightning strikes; loosening soil, watering, and fertilizing at appropriate times; preventing and controlling pests and diseases; filling and sealing tree cavities to prevent spread and enlargement; and supporting leaning trunks and drooping branches with supports. Third, rescue and rejuvenate endangered ancient and famous trees, such as replacing soil at the roots, burying tree branches underground and laying trapezoidal bricks or turf that are large at the top and small at the bottom, and increasing aeration and other technical measures, so that a group of increasingly decaying pines and cypresses regain vitality.