What propagation methods does the tree peony have? A detailed explanation of the key techniques of graft propagation
The tree peony is a plant of the Paeoniaceae family and has long been known as the king of flowers. It is widely cultivated in our country; based on flower color alone, the cultivated types can be divided into hundreds of varieties. Now let us learn together about the propagation techniques of the tree peony.
(1) Propagation methods and materials
The propagation methods of the tree peony are divided into sexual propagation and asexual propagation. Different propagation methods use different germplasm materials.
(1) Sexual propagation uses seeds as the germplasm material.
(2) Asexual propagation includes division, grafting, cuttings, layering and tissue culture, etc.
① Division uses the several small peonies divided from a tree peony as the germplasm material;
② Grafting uses 6-10 cm one-year-old vigorous branches growing from the lower part of the tree peony, and scions with a vigorous terminal bud and 2-3 lateral buds, as the germplasm material;
③ Cuttings use current-year soil shoots growing from the base of the tree peony, or branches with strong stems, plump terminal buds and no pests or diseases, as the scion;
④ Layering uses tree peony branches as the germplasm material;
⑤ Tissue culture uses the embryo, flower bud, stem tip, young leaves, etc. of the tree peony as the material.
(2) Propagation techniques
Sexual propagation of the tree peony, also called seed propagation, is a propagation method that uses seeds formed by fertilization of the ovule during the sexual development stage of the tree peony. Asexual propagation includes cuttings, division, grafting, layering, tissue culture and many other methods. The specific propagation methods are listed below.
(2) Grafting. Tree peony grafting should be carried out after early autumn and before the Double Ninth Festival; the most suitable time is around White Dew, when the grafting survival rate is as high as 80%-90%. For grafting, peony roots or tree peony seedlings can be selected as the rootstock, and 6-10 cm one-year-old vigorous branches growing from the lower part of the tree peony, with a vigorous terminal bud and 2-3 lateral buds, can be selected as the scion. Tree peony grafting usually adopts the forms of scion grafting and bud grafting. The scion grafting method can further be divided into the dug grafting method and the in-place grafting method.
① Scion grafting method
Dug grafting method: Peony roots or tree peony roots can be selected as the rootstock. First use a knife to cut both sides of the lower end of the scion symmetrically into a wedge shape at 2-3 cm, at the same time cut the top of the rootstock flat, then cut a slit from one side from top to bottom with a depth of 2/3 of the rootstock diameter and a length of 3-4 cm. Then insert the scion into the slit so that the cambium layers of the two are aligned and closely joined; bind tightly with hemp rope or plastic film strips, and smear the joint with clay paste, then it can be planted.
In-place grafting method: Cut off all the branches above 5-6 cm of the aboveground part of the original tree peony; the remaining method is the same as the dug grafting method.
② Bud grafting method: Generally choose to carry out between June and July, when the survival rate is relatively high. Select seedling tree peonies as the rootstock, and use plump, well-filled buds on current-year branches as the scion. Make a horizontal cut about 2 cm below the axillary bud of the plant, carry out ring peeling or cut out a square bud as the graft bud; then cut a cut surface of the same size on a rootstock branch of the same thickness, then attach the graft bud to the cut surface and bind tightly with hemp rope or plastic film strips.
③ Suitable time for grafting tree peonies: Tree peony grafting depends on specific temperature and humidity. Grafting after early autumn and before the Double Ninth Festival, especially around White Dew, has the highest survival rate.
(3) Cutting propagation. Around the Autumn Equinox, cut two-year-old thick, well-filled branches into 10-15 cm long cuttings, then treat with 500-1000 mg/L gibberellin (GA3) and insert them into sandy loam soil, with appropriate humidity. If selecting vigorous current-year sprout branches, around September cut them into or treat with 500 mg/L indoleacetic acid (IAA), and insert 2/3 of the branch into sandy loam soil, with appropriate humidity. If selecting vigorous current-year sprout branches, around September cut them into cuttings with 2-3 buds, treat with 500 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) or 300 mg/L potassium indolebutyrate (IBA), then insert them into a mixed substrate with a sand-to-soil ratio of 1:1, and culture at 18-25°C for 20-30 days to produce adventitious roots.
The above is all the content today about tree peony propagation techniques. Flower growers interested in tree peony cultivation are welcome to come to Huinong Network to refer to and learn from it!
Key points of graft propagation of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii
The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii has a petite plant body and brilliant colors. After flowering, the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii appears very gorgeous and is an excellent indoor potted variety. The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, bearing a bright red cactus ball, has the auspicious omen of "good fortune arriving", and is very suitable as a gift for relatives and friends. So what problems should be noted in the propagation of such a popular Gymnocalycium mihanovichii?
Gymnocalycium mihanovichii
The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is mainly propagated by grafting. Greenhouse cultivation can be carried out throughout the year, with spring or early summer being best, when healing is fast and the survival rate is relatively high. Select a thick and tender rootstock (commonly Hylocereus undatus (detailed introduction), and also Opuntia, cactus column, Euphorbia, etc. can be used), cut the top flat for later use; select a vigorous offset about 1 cm in diameter from the mother plant as the scion, peel it off and cut it flat with a sterilized sharp blade, press the offset tightly against the rootstock cut, align the center of the ball with the central column of the rootstock, and tie it firmly with thin thread or a thin rubber band, with appropriate tightness. Maintain at room temperature 25-30°C, loosen the binding after 7-10 days, and maintain for another two weeks. If the joint is intact, it indicates that it has survived. Generally, two months after grafting it can be viewed.
Propagation method of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii cactus (grafting). How does the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii overwinter
The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is a plant that flowers easily and is deeply loved by flower lovers. As a plant of the Cactaceae family, the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii has stronger vitality than other varieties, and keeping it alive is not difficult. The propagation method of most plants is mostly grafting. So is the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii the same? Let us take a look at what the propagation method of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is like.
Propagation method of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii cactus (grafting)
1. Preparation work for grafting
Select the rootstock to which the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is to be grafted. The ball body of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii lacks chlorophyll and cannot carry out photosynthesis to manufacture nutrients, so when propagating, the grafting method can be chosen, relying on the rootstock to provide nutrients.
When selecting a rootstock for grafting the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, generally choose varieties that are more than one year old with well-developed, thick and strong roots. Commonly used rootstocks include Hylocereus undatus, three-ridged arrow cactus, Euphorbia, etc. Tools to be used during grafting. Mainly knives and tools for fixing the scion. To fix the scion of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, a small thin string or rubber band can be chosen.
2. Grafting process of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii
Select a suitable rootstock and treat it. At a suitable place on the rootstock, cut it flat with a small knife so that the pith of the rootstock is exposed and treat the surroundings of the rootstock. The wound surface must be cleaned, otherwise it is not easy to survive. Treat the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii to be grafted.
When treating the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, note that how much to cut off should be determined according to the size of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, generally not exceeding one half of the ball body.
3. Fixing the graft of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii
Align the center of the cut of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii scion with the center of the rootstock, press with a finger for about one minute to make the rootstock and scion fit together. Then fix it with thin thread or a rubber band. When fixing, pay attention to the degree of tightness, so that there is no gap between the scion and the rootstock, which is best. Too loose or too tight will both affect its survival.
4. Waiting for survival
About 15 days after grafting the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, if the grafted ball body remains fresh, it indicates that the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii has successfully grafted. If the joint shows cracks or turns black, this indicates that the grafting has failed, and at this time it can be re-grafted.
Precautions for grafting the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii
1. Grafting of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii can be carried out throughout the year in a greenhouse, but the success rate is highest in late spring and early summer.
2. After grafting, place the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii in a semi-shaded place, suspend watering, and even more do not spray water on the ball body.
3. When grafting, pay attention to fixing the grafted Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, so as not to affect its survival.
How does the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii overwinter
1. Temperature conditions
The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is suitable for growing in a relatively warm environment and has poor cold resistance. Therefore, before overwintering, before the temperature drops, move it in time into a warm and comfortable indoor place, to avoid frost damage caused by too low a temperature, or even threatening its survival. In addition, the temperature is best kept above 8°C, with 10°C being the best maintenance temperature.
2. Light conditions
The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii needs sufficient light in winter to ensure its growth needs, so when overwintering it should be placed on a windowsill or inside a balcony where sunlight can reach, so that it receives sufficient light, and avoid poor growth due to lack of light.
3. Water and fertilizer conditions
The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii has strong drought tolerance and is suitable for growing in a relatively dry environment. For this reason, when overwintering, water control must be even stricter, watering as little as possible or not at all, to keep the potting soil on the dry side, to avoid damage to its roots and difficulty in overwintering smoothly. Moreover, the lower the temperature, the more the potting soil should be kept dry. At the same time, note that the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii does not need fertilization when overwintering.
Water management of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii
1. Spring: the vigorous growth period of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii. During this period, the soil should be kept moist, and generally it should be watered once every 2-3 days.
2. Summer: when the temperature is not high, the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii will not go dormant, and at this time there is no need to stop watering; normal watering is fine. When the temperature is too high and the sunlight is strong, the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii will go dormant, and at this time watering should be controlled, though appropriate misting is allowed.
3. Autumn: this is likewise the growth period of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii. Watering in autumn should be coordinated with fertilization, and the soil should be kept moist.
4. Winter: water should be controlled, and the potting soil should be dry. Generally it can be watered once a month; the water temperature must not be too low, and watering until the soil is thoroughly wet is enough.
Fertilization management of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii
1. The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii likes fertilizer and is not particular about the type of fertilizer. During the growth period, compound fertilizer can be applied; note to apply lightly and frequently, once a month. When cultivating, it is best to apply solid fertilizer.
2. The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii should stop fertilization in midsummer and severe winter, otherwise the root system may be damaged, causing root rot of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, and it cannot safely overwinter and pass the summer.
The above is the propagation method of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and some maintenance key points that the editor has brought to you today. Did you learn it? Are you eager to try your own cultivation skills? Hurry and give it a try, and let your Gymnocalycium mihanovichii also produce bright flowers!