Gypsophila paniculata Propagation Techniques and Pest and Disease Control Methods Explained in Detail
Gypsophila paniculata is a flower very much loved by women, with large market demand and good market prospects. It is often used for cut flowers or dried into dried flowers. So how do you control pests and diseases when growing Gypsophila paniculata? Below, the editor will tell you.
Gypsophila paniculata is a flower very much loved by women, with large market demand and good market prospects. It is often used for cut flowers or dried into dried flowers. So how do you control pests and diseases when growing Gypsophila paniculata? Below, the editor will tell you.
1 Propagation
Gypsophila paniculata can reproduce sexually or asexually. There are many propagation methods.
1.1 Seed propagation
Gypsophila paniculata is mainly propagated by seed. First germinate the seeds. The sowing time can be staggered according to the local suitable temperature and the time to market.
(1) In the south, sow in early September, move into a cold frame to overwinter in early winter, plant out in the open field in late March of the following year, and begin flowering from late April to late May.
(2) Sow in the open field in mid-November; the seeds overwinter in the open field, germinate the following year, and the flowering period is in mid-May.
(3) In the north, direct sow in the open field in mid-March and flower after late May. At this time the temperature in the north is not high, which is suitable for the growth and development of Gypsophila paniculata.
1.2 Tissue culture propagation
Double-petaled varieties are mainly propagated by this method.
Select healthy, disease-free, superior individual plants, and cut the young, tender upper parts of well-developed branches as explants. Rinse clean with tap water, soak in 70% alcohol for 40s, rinse 2-3 times with distilled water, add 20% Antiformin for disinfection. Cut into small segments, each segment must have an axillary bud, and inoculate onto the culture medium. One week after inoculation, sprouting green buds appear. Wait for the leaves to gradually spread. When the seedlings are 2.5-3cm tall, transplant them promptly.
Gypsophila paniculata Propagation and Pest and Disease Control Cultivation Techniques
1.3 Cutting propagation
Select robust growing plants, take cuttings with 4-5 pairs of leaves, treat with rooting powder or other auxin, and insert them into a cutting bed with perlite as the substrate. In spring, cut about 10cm of new branches from the plants, insert 3-4 stems as a clump into the seedling bed, spray water to maintain moisture, cultivate for more than 20 days, then transplant into soil and grow into large seedlings for sale.
(1) Usually cuttings are taken 30d before planting. Under natural temperatures, carry out cutting propagation from April to July. In this way the temperature is suitable and the survival rate can be increased.
(2) The cultivation beds for planting seedlings are 0.9-1m wide, and the length depends on conditions. The planting method is cross planting. Before planting, the planting bed should be fully irrigated; during cultivation, avoid soil that is too wet.
2 Cultivation management
The planting environment should be a moist site with sufficient sunlight, rich in humus, good drainage, and fertile soil. Irrigation requirements: in the early growth stage, water frequently; when the plants grow to 30cm, control watering to prevent excessive vegetative growth; during the bud stage, water even more carefully. During the flowering period, the requirement is slightly dry.
(1) Gypsophila paniculata fears both heat and cold. When the temperature is above 30°C, or below 10°C, it easily causes rosette-like clustering, with only leaves growing and no flowers.
(2) Under greenhouse cultivation conditions, from October onward, keep the room temperature at 15-25°C during the day and 10-14°C at night, and increase light by more than 4h per day, so that the plants receive light for 16h.
(3) Topdressing can be done 30d after planting. The topdressing composition is preferably nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in a ratio of 2.2:2:2.5. Apply topdressing once a week or combine it with irrigation, and stop topdressing 20d before flowering. Too much nitrogen fertilizer will cause excessive vegetative growth, weak stems, and affect the quality of cut flowers.
(4) Pinching should be done 1 month after planting. Usually when the seedlings have grown 7-8 pairs of leaves, remove the terminal bud to let them grow and develop. Two weeks after pinching, when the side branches grow to about 10cm, remove the weak buds and keep the strong buds. When the plants grow vigorously, the clumps are large and prone to lodging, so they can be fixed with netting or supported with bamboo poles.
3 Cut flower harvesting
When half of the small flowers on the main flower have opened, they can be harvested. First cut the central stem, leave the lower side branches at about 60cm long, and harvest in stages and batches.
(1) In high-cold regions, take cuttings from March to April, plant from May to June, and harvest from July to October; the growth period is about 4 months. In warm regions, usually plant in autumn and harvest from May to June of the following year. If the greenhouse temperature is maintained at 15-25°C and light is no less than 14h, flowers can be harvested year-round.
(2) After harvesting the flowering branches, they should immediately be placed in water and refrigerated. The flowering branches can be naturally dried to become high-quality dried flowers and can be enjoyed for as long as 1 year.
(3) If there is no appropriate treatment after harvesting the flowers, even if they fully absorb water, they will no longer bloom. To make them bloom, treat them with 10% sucrose + 200mg/L STS solution before marketing, and the flowering rate can ultimately reach 100-70%. For vase preservation, use a liquid of 2% sucrose + 200mg/L 8-HQC.
4 Pest and disease control
(1) Common pests include aphids or snails. For these pests, generally spray with diluted Fengyoujing or diluted neutral laundry detergent.
(2) Crown gall: a disease that occurs throughout the entire growth period. Branches wilt and become chlorotic, followed by leaf death, and the symptoms gradually spread upward from the base. Usually soft galls form on the main root or at the end of the stem, while mature plants form crown galls on the roots, producing scale-like thickening or enlargement along the roots. Control method: soaking the plants in calcium hypochlorite solution for 2min can control it; the solution concentration is 27.4g added to 1000mL water.
(3) Phytophthora crown rot: under high temperature of 32°C and high humidity, the disease develops rapidly. All leaves turn light green to gray, wilt, and die. The root crown tissue softens and shows wet rot symptoms, and during the rotting process there is often a strong bacterial rot odor. Control method: use 60-120g etridiazole added to 100L water for control.
Gypsophila paniculata is a very good cut flower material, and dried into dried flowers it also has a different ornamental value. Its planting prospects are very good. The above are detailed planting methods. Those who like Gypsophila paniculata can save them.
Serissa foetida Serissa foetida Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Serissa foetida / How to Propagate Serissa foetida
Serissa foetida ProfileSerissa foetida Serissa foetida
Cultivation Methods and Precautions for Serissa foetida Introduction to Serissa foetida
Serissa foetida, an evergreen small shrub, blooms in June. From a distance it looks like silver-covered white, like snow falling in June, elegant and lovely, hence the name. It is also known as Suiye Dongqing, Baimagu, Suxin, Ximing, and Liuyuexue. One name is Ximing, another is Suxin. In June it opens fine white flowers; the tree is very small but the branches and leaves are spread out, quite refined and elegant, and it can be made into a potted plant. It likes light shade and fears the sun. It is often found under trees and leaves in deep mountains. In spring, divide and plant it, or take cuttings during the yellow plum rain season. It is suitable to water with weak tea. -------Quoted from Qing dynasty, Chen Haozi's "Hua Jing, Volume Three, Flowering Trees"
Serissa foetida (scientific name: Serissa foetida) is the only species in the genus Serissa of the family Rubiaceae. It is an evergreen shrub plant and one of the trees commonly used in Chinese bonsai. This tree species is native to subtropical regions. Every summer it blooms star-shaped white flowers, like snow accumulated on the tree. The flowers can be single-petaled or double-petaled. Some leaves are green, small and smooth on the surface. In modern cultivation, varieties with purple flowers and cultivated varieties with variegated leaves have been developed. In temperate regions it can be grown as an indoor plant. Serissa foetida is a common ornamental flowering tree. In midsummer, the elegant and refined small white flowers bloom among the green leaves. Seen up close, they are like a sky full of stars, hence it is also called Gypsophila paniculata.
Morphological characteristics of Serissa foetida
Evergreen or semi-evergreen clustered small shrub. The plant is low, less than 1 meter tall, with many and dense branches, appearing messy. Young branches are green with fine hairs, and have a foul odor when rubbed; old stems are brown with obvious wrinkles; young branches are slender and upright, green. Leaves are opposite or clustered on small branches, long elliptical or long elliptically lanceolate, about 0.7cm to 1.5cm long, entire. Flowers are white with a red tinge or pale pink-purple, solitary or several clustered, corolla funnel-shaped. Entire, apex obtuse, thick leathery, dark green, glossy. Flowers are small, densely born at the tips of small branches, corolla about 7mm long, funnel-shaped, with soft hairs, white with a slight red tinge, calyx green with lobed teeth, hard in texture. Small drupe nearly spherical, flowering period June to July. Commonly cultivated forms include golden-edged Serissa foetida (leaf margins golden yellow), variegated-leaf Serissa foetida, and double-petaled Serissa foetida. In midsummer, the elegant and refined small white flowers bloom among the green leaves. Seen up close, they are like a sky full of stars, hence it is also called Gypsophila paniculata.
The branches of Serissa foetida are delicate and elegant, small and refined. The glossy round leaves are like floating clouds. If made into potted plants or bonsai and placed indoors, it remains evergreen through the four seasons, with exposed roots and claw-like base, intertwined branches, ancient and elegant. Especially in the scorching midsummer, it not only gives people the enjoyment of natural beauty and artistic beauty, but also makes people feel cool, comfortable, and refreshed. The modern person Chen Changming once wrote the tune "Shuixianzi" praising it: "The old home deep in the mountain forest, in June opens fine broken flowers, like drifting down piece by piece from the distant sky. It delights in clear shade and shows quiet elegance, placed along the courtyard steps with a refined charm. It does not demand a thousand gold in price, personally offered with a cup of tea, the heat is dispelled, far better than floating melon."
Serissa foetida is not only an excellent bonsai and potted material, but also suitable for flower beds, roadsides, flower hedges, and border planting.
Serissa foetida belongs to the family Rubiaceae. Also called "Gypsophila paniculata", it is similar to Baimagu, with a longer corolla, and can be used for ornament. It is produced in the provinces south of the Yangtze River basin in China.
Evergreen small shrub with many branches. Leaves small, opposite, elliptical and pointed, slightly leathery, apex gradually pointed, with a short petiole, often clustered on the upper part of small branches. Stipules membranous, wide at the base, with several bristle-like hairs at the top. Flowers small and white, numerous, looking like snow from afar, flowering period June. Hence the name Liuyuexue. There are single-petaled and double-petaled forms. There is also a Peking opera repertoire with the same name. It evolved from the Yuan dynasty Guan Hanqing zaju "The Injustice to Dou E". Also known as "Zhan Dou E", "Jin Suo Ji", and "Yang Du Tang".
Ecological habits of Serissa foetida
It likes sunlight, and is also fairly shade-tolerant, but fears strong wind and scorching sun; during high temperature and severe summer heat, it should have light shade. In June it opens fine white flowers; the tree is very small but the branches and leaves are spread out, quite refined and elegant, and it can be made into a potted plant. It likes light shade and fears the sun. It is often found under trees and leaves in deep mountains. In spring, divide and plant it, or take cuttings during the yellow plum rain season. It is suitable to water with weak tea. It is not strict about temperature; in South China it is evergreen, and in Southwest China it is semi-evergreen. It has strong drought tolerance and is not strict about soil. For pot cultivation, it is suitable to use a moist culture soil that contains humus, is loose and fertile, has strong permeability, and is slightly acidic; it grows well.
It likes warm and humid climatic conditions and soil that is semi-shaded and semi-sunny, loose and fertile, and well-drained; neutral and slightly acidic soils are especially suitable. It is not strongly cold-resistant. For overwintering in a greenhouse in winter, the temperature needs to be above 0°C. Its sprouting ability and tillering ability are relatively strong, so it tolerates pruning and is also easy to shape. In southern gardens it is often planted in the open field under tree canopy and among shrubs; in the north it is mostly potted for ornament and overwinters indoors. It is also a good bonsai material. Cutting seedlings bloom 2-3 years after planting.
Uses and purposes of Serissa foetida
Its tree form is graceful, with spread branches and leaves, small and refined. It is a beautiful flowering and foliage tree species in landscaping, and also an excellent bonsai material. It is one of the five famous trees in Lingnan bonsai, and has long been known as one of the "Eighteen Scholars" of tree-stump bonsai. It is one of the bonsai plants exported from China to the United States after China's accession to the WTO.
Distribution area of Serissa foetida
Serissa foetida is native to the provinces south of the Yangtze River in China, with wild distribution from Jiangsu to Guangdong. It mostly grows at forest edges, in thickets, roadsides, grassy slopes, and by streams.
Serissa foetida is mainly distributed in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Guangdong, and other southeastern and central provinces of China. It is also distributed in Japan and Taiwan. It is mostly wild among mountain forests and by streams and rocks. It is a subtropical tree species, liking warm and humid climatic conditions and soil that is semi-shaded and semi-sunny, loose and fertile, and well-drained; neutral and slightly acidic soils are especially suitable. It is not strongly cold-resistant. For overwintering in a greenhouse in winter, the temperature needs to be above 0°C. Its sprouting ability and tillering ability are relatively strong, so it tolerates pruning and is also easy to shape. In southern gardens it is often planted in the open field under tree canopy and among shrubs; in the north it is mostly potted for ornament and overwinters indoors. It is also a good bonsai material.
Variety classification of Serissa foetida Common varieties
The number of Serissa foetida planted in North China is developing, and landscaping departments have transported in many from the south. There are two types commonly seen on the market: one is the clustered type, with slightly red flowers and trumpet-shaped flowers, which is a coarse variety; the other is the single-trunk small tree form, with pure white, double-petaled flowers, which is a superior variety.
Related variants
The variants of Serissa foetida include:
(1) Yinmu, shorter than the original species, with thick leaves, small branches growing upright, leaves relatively small, densely clustered at the ends of small branches, and flowers relatively sparse.
(2) Golden-edged Serissa foetida, with larger leaves and narrow golden-yellow margins.
(3) Double-petaled Serissa foetida, with pointed buds, pale purple, turning white when the flowers open, double-petaled, relatively thick in texture.
(4) Double-petaled Yinmu, with double-petaled flowers.
Main variants
1. Double-petaled Serissa foetida (var.pleniflora Makino), with double-petaled flowers.
2. Double-petaled Serissa foetida (var.duplex Makino), with double-layered petals.
3. Variegated-leaf Serissa foetida (var.variegata Hort.), also called spotted-leaf Serissa foetida. Leaf surface has white markings.
4. Golden-edged Serissa foetida (var.aureo-marginata Hort.), with yellow leaf margins.
Additional species
Baimagu (Serissa serissoides (DC.) Druce), very similar to Serissa foetida, but the corolla of this species is 2 times the length of the sepals, while the corolla and sepals of Serissa foetida are nearly equal in length, which can distinguish them. It is also often used in bonsai.
Serissa foetida is produced in Jiangsu, Anhui, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei, Hunan, Fujian, Guangdong, Taiwan, and other provinces, and is a common tree species under subtropical forests. It is also distributed in Japan.
It likes shade and tolerates moisture, and fears strong light. Therefore, wild plants mostly grow under forests, by ditches, or in thickets. It likes a warm climate and is not tolerant of severe cold. It is suitable for growing on loose, well-drained loam, and can adapt to both neutral soil and slightly acidic soil. Its sprouting ability is very strong, and it tolerates pruning.
Medicinal dietary or medicinal value of Serissa foetida
The medical information and healthy dietary information on Huhua.com is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health issues should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and treatment for any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: love yourself, start from reality, and follow the doctor's advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
Medicinal value
[Aliases] Baimagu, Lubicjiang, Tianxingmu, Lubianjing, Jiguchai
[Source] It is the plant Serissa serissoides (DC.) Druce of the genus Serissa in the family Rubiaceae, using the whole plant as medicine. It can be collected throughout the year. Wash and use fresh, or cut into sections and dry in the sun.
Note: The related plant Baimagu Serissa foetida Comm. is also used as Liuyuexue in medicine, with similar effects.
[Source form] Evergreen small shrub, usually 1 meter tall, much branched, roots slender and long, outer bark yellow. Branches thick, gray-white or blue-gray, young branches with fine hairs, have a foul odor when rubbed. Leaves opposite or clustered on short branches, nearly leathery, obovate, elliptical, or oblanceolate. In August it opens small white flowers. Drupe small, spherical.
[Nature, flavor, and meridian entry] Bland, slightly pungent, cool.
[Functions and indications] Strengthen the spleen and drain dampness, soothe the liver and invigorate blood. Used for infantile malnutrition, acute and chronic hepatitis, amenorrhea, leukorrhea, and rheumatic lumbago.
[Usage and dosage] Oral administration: decoct in soup, 3-5 qian (1-2 liang if fresh). External use: burn to ash, strain the liquid and apply; decoct in water and wash, or pound and apply.
[Adverse reactions] Do not take together with tea, red wine, etc. There may be mild adverse reactions such as slight headache and dry mouth.
[Excerpt] "Compilation of National Chinese Herbal Medicines"
Literature discussion
① "Bencao Shiyi": "Stops watery dysentery."
② "Shengcao Yaoxing Bei Yao": "Treats typhoid, heatstroke, mania and delirious speech, fire syndromes, and also reduces body heat."
③ "Ningxiang County Annals": "Nodes: can treat infantile convulsions and abdominal pain; branches: burned to ash can be used to dot eye films."
④ "Zhiwu Mingshi Tukao": "Treats heat syndromes, sores and hemorrhoids, and women's leukorrhea."
⑤ "Lingnan Caiyao Lu": "Relieves summer heat, disperses accumulation and stagnation, stops dysentery; and treats typhoid, seasonal epidemics, abscesses on the back, dissolves carbuncles and gangrene, and draws out toxins."
⑥ "Nanjing Minjian Yaocao": "Stops vomiting blood."
⑦ "Zhongyiyao Shiyan Yanjiu": "Treats red, swollen, and painful eyes."
⑧ "Anhui Yaocai": "Boiled with old hen, it can treat chronic nephritis edema."
⑨ "Guizhou Minjian Yaowu": "Clears heat and detoxifies, soothes meridians and activates collaterals. Treats knife wounds, paralysis, male and female weakness syndromes, and flying furuncles."
⑩ "Guangxi Zhongyao Zhi": "Treats sore throat."
⑾ "Sichuan Zhongyao Zhi": "Clears heat, eliminates wind. Treats dizziness and blurred vision and pathogenic heat in the chest and diaphragm."
⑿ Guangzhou Military Region "Commonly Used Chinese Herbal Medicine Manual": "Soothes the liver and relieves depression, clears heat and drains dampness, reduces swelling and draws out toxins. Treats acute and chronic hepatitis, rheumatic waist and leg pain, carbuncle swelling and malignant sores, and snake bites."
⒀ "Shanghai Commonly Used Chinese Herbal Medicine Manual": "Invigorates blood, reduces swelling, dispels wind, resolves dampness, and also has a tonic effect. Treats women's amenorrhea, excessive leukorrhea, dizziness, and weakness."
⒁ "Jiangsu Yanfang Caoyao Xuanbian": "Treats chyluria. Decoct with Shidachuan and take to treat facial nerve paralysis."
⒂ "Zhejiang Minjian Changyong Caoyao": "Calms the liver, drains dampness, strengthens the spleen, and stops diarrhea."
Medicinal value
Serissa foetida uses the whole plant as medicine, with a bland, slightly pungent, cool nature and flavor; it has the effects of dispelling wind and releasing the exterior, clearing heat and draining dampness, and soothing tendons and activating collaterals. Specific selected formulas include:
① To treat acute icteric hepatitis: Serissa foetida 30 grams, gardenia and iris 10 grams each, Fozhijia 30 grams, Scutellaria barbata 15 grams, decoct in water, 1 dose per day.
② To treat common cold: Serissa foetida 30 grams, honeysuckle and chrysanthemum 10 grams each, decoct in water and take; or Serissa foetida, Pteris multifida, and Ajuga 30 grams each, decoct in water and take.
③ To treat enteritis and diarrhea: Serissa foetida and rose root 30 grams each, decoct in water and drink as tea.
④ To treat acute keratitis and corneal opacity: remove the rough bark from Serissa foetida root, take the secondary bark, add an appropriate amount of milk, pound to extract juice, then filter with gauze, and apply as eye drops, 3-5 times daily, 1-2 drops each time.
⑤ For red, swollen, and painful eyes: Serissa foetida 40 grams, chrysanthemum 10 flowers, decoct in water and take; at the same time use Serissa foetida decoction to fumigate and wash the affected area.
Commonly used selected formulas
① To treat watery dysentery: decoct the stems and leaves of Baimagu in water and take. ("Bencao Shiyi")
② To treat hepatitis: Serissa foetida 2 liang, Lysimachia christinae 1 liang, decoct in water and take. ("Zhejiang Minjian Changyong Caoyao")
③ To treat steaming bone consumptive heat and infantile malnutrition: Serissa foetida 1 to 2 liang, decoct in water and take. ("Zhejiang Minjian Changyong Caoyao")
④ To treat red, swollen, and painful eyes: Lubianjing stems and leaves 1 to 2 liang, decoct and take; decoct the residue again for fumigation and washing. ("Zhongyiyao Shiyan Yanjiu")
⑤ To treat migraine: fresh Baimagu 1 to 2 liang, decoct in water with a little table salt and take. ("Quanzhou Bencao")
⑥ To treat pharyngitis: Serissa foetida 3 to 5 qian, decoct in water, 1 dose per day, taken in 2 divided doses. (Guangxi "Zhongcaoyao Xin Yiliao Fa Chufang Ji")
⑦ To treat toothache: Baimagu 1.5 liang, stew with dried cuttlefish and take. ("Quanzhou Bencao")
⑧ To treat oral thrush: a handful of Baimagu leaves, pound slightly, soak in rice washing water, take the juice and wash inside the mouth. ("Mindong Bencao")
⑨ To treat malignant sores, scrofula, eroded polyps, and vitiligo: Baimagu, Coptis chinensis, Asarum, Baidiao (also written as 'Baizhi'), Achyranthes bidentata, chicken mulberry bark, Vitex negundo, etc. Burn into powder, strain the liquid, and apply after breaking the skin with an object. ("Bencao Shiyi")
Propagation methods of Serissa foetida
Propagation is mainly by cuttings, and layering, division, and other methods can also be used.
UseCutting propagation. Cutting of dormant branches is carried out in February to March, and cutting of semi-mature branches is carried out in June to July. Cuttings 6-8 cm long are cut and inserted into slightly acidic fine sandy loam, with a shed for shade. After insertion, attention should be paid to watering to keep the seedbed moist; the cuttings root very easily. Several cuttings can also be inserted together, and by October to November they can be potted and transplanted, with the combined seedlings divided into individual plants for transplanting. Softwood cuttings can also be carried out in summer and early autumn. Generally, hardwood is used in early spring, but in the plum rain season hardwood and old branches can both be used, and all require a shade shed. After insertion, attention should be paid to watering to keep the seedbed moist; they root very easily. When making small or miniature bonsai, to promote shaping as quickly as possible, often in the plum rain season of June-July, take perennial branches with beautiful posture and a large-tree form, cut the lower cut into a horseshoe shape, insert them into vermiculite or sand, cover with film to keep warm, pay attention to misting, and they can root in about 40 days. At this point transplant them, and with a little binding and pruning they can be shaped. Because this plant is easy to find in mountain and field areas everywhere, some flower growers often dig it directly from the woods and bring it back for potting.
It can also be usedbroadcast cutting method: Use vacant green space, loosen the soil, break up the soil clods, and level it. Evenly scatter the one- to two-node (about 3 cm) branches left from pruning onto the previously prepared ground, press the surface soil firmly with feet or an object, and water thoroughly. After that, spray water once every other day, and rooting begins after 10 days, with branches and buds sprouting. After 25 days, apply the first dilute liquid fertilizer. At 50 days, apply a 1:1000 dilution of urea once to promote seedling growth. After 2 months, they can be transplanted and planted out. After 4 months, they can be potted for cultivation, and initial insertion can also be carried out at the same time. After 1 year, a relatively ideal tree-stump bonsai with exposed hanging roots can be formed. If used as a hedge, it takes only half a year to take shape.
Division
Usually carried out in March in spring. Transplanting can be done in all four seasons, with February to March in spring being the best.
Cultivation techniques of Serissa japonica
Field cultivation and management of Serissa japonica is simple and extensive. In the south it can be planted in patches in gardens to form shrubbery; viewed from afar in summer it is as white as snow, giving a feeling of coolness and elegance. It is usually mostly used for shaped potted ornament or for making tree-stump bonsai. First train the plant into a single-trunk form, then according to the styling concept prune and wire the side branches to make various bonsai, all of which can achieve ideal effects. In summer it should be placed outdoors for maintenance; if placed indoors, it must be bright and ventilation must be increased, otherwise the branches will grow leggy, the leaf color will turn yellow, and the lower leaves will often drop in large numbers. Throughout the year, maintenance should keep the pot soil moderately dry and wet; in hot summer and dry seasons, keep the pot soil moist frequently and spray water on the leaf surface to keep the branches and leaves fresh. During the growing season, liquid fertilizer can be applied 3 to 4 times. In winter, if you do not continue to enjoy it, you can let it drop its leaves, then move it into a cellar or bury it entirely in soil to overwinter. If brought into a low-temperature greenhouse to overwinter, it can remain evergreen; the room temperature must not be lower than 6°C, and good ventilation and sufficient light should be maintained. Before being taken out in early spring, potted plants should be short-pruned and pinched to keep the plant shape symmetrical and full, while bonsai need pruning and shaping for artistic processing.
It likes semi-shade by nature, fears blazing sun, has strong sprouting ability, is quite tolerant of pruning, is easy to plant, and is extensively managed. Artificially cultivated in fertile sandy loam. In mid-October bring it into the greenhouse, keep the room temperature at 10-15°C, water thoroughly once a week, and in late April move it out of the greenhouse and place it under a shade shed for maintenance. It does not need heavy fertilizer; applying dilute liquid fertilizer once a month and keeping the pot soil moist will allow it to grow well. If Serissa japonica is kept above 5°C in winter, its branches and leaves remain lush and evergreen, but the soil must not be too dry; keep it slightly moist. Because Serissa japonica has particularly strong sprouting ability, many new branches will sprout from the main trunk and roots, and excess new shoots should be removed in time to avoid consuming nutrients and disrupting the normal development of the tree shape. Branches that sprout after flowering and protrude beyond the crown must also be pruned, otherwise the ornamental effect is affected.
Key cultivation points
(1) Watering
Move indoors in mid-October and water thoroughly once a week. In late April move outdoors to a sheltered place and keep the pot soil moist.
(2) Fertilizing
After potting, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks to promote robust branches and leaves and abundant flowering.
(3) Repotting
Serissa japonica likes a warm climate, prefers a shady and humid environment, and is not tolerant of severe cold. It is not strict about soil, but likes fertile sandy loam. For potted Serissa japonica, after potting it should first be placed in semi-shade, and after it adapts to the pot move it to open ground for maintenance. Repotting is generally done once every 2-3 years, in March. Repotting should be chosen on a sunny day and carried out when the pot soil is slightly dry. After repotting, place it temporarily in a cool, ventilated place, and restore normal management after one week.
(4) Pruning
Serissa japonica has strong sprouting ability, tillering ability, and resistance, and tolerates pruning and wiring.
Serissa japonica should be pruned 2 times each year. The first time is in mid-April to cut off spring shoots, and the second time is after flowering, cutting off the tips of flowering branches. Buds should be removed frequently in normal times.
Material collection and cultivation measures Artificial propagation: Usually propagated by cuttings or tillering. Cuttings can use hardwood or softwood; hardwood cuttings are carried out in February to March, using dormant branches as cuttings; softwood cuttings are carried out in the plum rain season of June to July, using semi-mature branches as cuttings. The seedbed soil must be deep, fertile, and moist. The cuttings are 6-8 cm long and inserted to a depth of 1/2. After insertion, a shed is needed for shade, and attention should be paid to watering to keep the soil layer moist; they root very easily and can be transplanted in spring of the second year. Tillering propagation is carried out in March in spring. Dig up the plants sprouting from the roots together with the roots, separate them with a sharp knife, and plant them with roots; they also root easily.
Collection from mountains and fields: Serissa japonica grows in great abundance wild in mountainous areas. Old stumps with thick rhizomes can be selected, dug up, and cultivated in shady, moist, fertile soil. After the root system resumes growth and the branches and leaves are luxuriant, transplant and pot them.
Potting process
Pot selection: Serissa japonica mostly uses relatively shallow rectangular or oval pots. The material can be purple clay pottery pots or glazed pottery pots, and the color should preferably be darker.
Soil: Serissa japonica is suitable for slightly acidic loam rich in humus, loose, and well drained. For potting, leaf mold soil or pond mud that has been sun-dried and frozen loose can be used. Line the bottom of the pot with a layer of river sand and leaves to facilitate drainage.
Planting: Transplanting and potting can be done in early spring or late autumn. When planting, part of the long roots can be cut off. If it is a wild old root stump, the roots can be raised appropriately to show an aged posture.
Stem training techniques
Processing: Serissa japonica is generally shaped and processed by combining pruning and wiring. The main branches only need to be wired appropriately, and the rest are processed by pruning. For wiring, palm fiber is best, and care should be taken not to damage the branches and bark when bending for shaping. Old root stumps can also be treated by raising the roots when styling, adding to the beauty of the tree posture.
Tree forms: Common forms of Serissa japonica bonsai include slanting trunk style, curved trunk style, cascade style, forest style, and raised-root style. Serissa japonica is also suitable for use in landscape bonsai and water-and-land bonsai. Its branches and leaves spread horizontally and should be processed into a steamed-bun shape, but it need not be too regular; pay attention to variations in density. Side branches can droop appropriately, which is quite picturesque. Serissa japonica can also be made into root-on-rock bonsai, rooting in stone crevices, with hanging roots and exposed claws, tangled branches and knotted joints, ancient and peculiar, full of natural wild charm.
Maintenance points
In summer when temperatures are high and dry, in addition to daily watering, use clear water in the morning and evening to sprinkle the leaf surface and nearby ground to lower temperature and increase air humidity. The plant should be placed under a shade shed, and must not be kept in strong sunlight for a long time. After autumn, as the temperature drops, gradually control the amount of watering, watering once every 2 to 3 days. In winter, move it into a cold room or indoors not lower than 0°C to overwinter, watering once every 20 to 30 days; if the room temperature is above 15°C, it remains evergreen and does not drop leaves, so water once every 7 to 10 days, and maintain humid air and give sunlight exposure. During severe cold, it must not be frozen, otherwise it easily dies. Before taking it out in March each year, repot with leaf mold soil, and use hoof and horn pieces at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer.
Transplanting can be carried out in all four seasons, with March to April in spring being the best. It can also be potted. The potting soil must be rich in humus, loose and breathable, and well drained. It can be prepared with 4 parts decomposed cow manure, 1 part decomposed cake fertilizer, 4 parts garden soil, and 1 part coal ash. After potting, it should first be placed in semi-shade, and the pot soil should be kept moist; tap water must be sun-exposed before use. It has a certain drought tolerance but is not tolerant of waterlogging. Watering should follow the principle of dry-wet alternation and no watering when not dry. In the rainy season, prevent water accumulation in the pot; if the weather is very rainy, place the pot on its side; in summer when temperatures are high and dry, spray water on the leaf surface in the morning and evening to lower temperature and increase air humidity, so as to promote growth and flowering. Every half month, water once with 1% edible vinegar water to avoid soil alkalization and plant yellowing. During the growing season, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every 10-15 days, or fertilize with water, that is, mix dilute liquid fertilizer into each watering. In addition to soil fertilization, foliar topdressing should also be carried out frequently, spraying leaves with 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to adjust pH and increase plant nutrition. In summer, the plant should avoid blazing sun exposure; a shade shed with small-hole nylon mesh or plastic window screen providing half light can be built to create a suitable microclimate for plant growth, which is especially important for variegated Serissa japonica.
Serissa japonica can be wired and processed into bonsai stumps with varied postures and great distinctive character. Select Serissa japonica thickets with sturdy stems and a certain form, dig them out in March or April, divide them into different plantings of single trunk, double trunk, or multiple trunks, cut off excess branches and stems, and bind the roots with bamboo strips or other easily rotting rope into a dragon-claw shape before potting and planting. In daily management, pay attention to the appropriate supply of water. When young branches grow to 8-10 cm long, apply decomposed oil cake fertilizer to promote seedling growth, and at the same time keep only a small number of buds sprouting from the stem or roots and remove the rest; excess buds on the stems and branches should also be removed at any time. About 3 months after potting, the tree blank can be processed for shaping, and palm fiber can be used for wiring. Pay attention to high-low echo and well-arranged front-back staggering, and carefully process and shape one branch at a time. After wiring, in addition to normal watering, fertilizing, and pest and disease control, buds should also be removed in time, pruned, and rewired, and the wire can be removed the following year.
Pest and disease control of Serissa japonica Dodder disease
Dodder is a climbing herbaceous plant that parasitizes Serissa japonica, winding its vine stems around the main trunk and branches. The entwined branches develop constriction marks, and the vine stems form haustoria at the constriction marks to absorb nutrients from the tree body. The vine stems grow rapidly, continuously branching and entwining the host plant, and interweaving with each other to cover the entire crown. The pests and diseases of Serissa japonica are generally scale insects. They can be controlled by spraying 40% omethoate 1000-fold to 1500-fold solution or 25% phosmet 1000-fold to 1500-fold solution.
Garden control methods: For severely affected plots, deeply plow every year; as long as seeds are buried below 3 cm, they are unlikely to emerge. In late spring and early summer, inspect in time. When dodder is found, remove and destroy it together with weeds and the affected parts of the host, and clear away bridge-forming sprouting branches and wild plants. Chemical control methods: During the peak period of seed germination, spray the ground with 1.5% sodium pentachlorophenate and 2% prometryn solution, then spray once every 25 days thereafter, for a total of 3-4 sprays, to kill dodder seedlings.
There are relatively few pests and diseases. Occasionally aphids cause damage, and they can be killed by spraying with 1500-fold omethoate solution.
The basic tasks in its management are watering and fertilizing. The principle of watering is not to water when not dry, and never water excessively. If the pot surface remains wet for a long time, root respiration becomes difficult and root rot can easily kill the plant. Fertilizing should be frequent and light, using decomposed liquid fertilizer. Do not fertilize in summer, and do not fertilize during the flowering period, so as to avoid excessive growth and loss of form. From May to June, shoot tips should be pinched, and new buds in July should be removed.
Potted flowers should be fixed in position and should not be moved around. Serissa japonica is particular about phototropism. In summer under blazing sun, shade it above and maintain ventilation, spray water on its leaves 1 to 2 times a day, and maintain air humidity. In severe winter, it can be wrapped slightly with straw (when around -10°C) to avoid freezing to death.
Bonsai making of Serissa japonica Bonsai making
It likes semi-shade, fears water accumulation, fears blazing sun, and has strong resistance. For potting, soft mountain soil must be selected, and it should be placed in a sunny place and not kept indoors for long periods. During the growing season, fertilizer is needed 1-2 times, and the pot soil should preferably be on the dry side; too much or too concentrated fertilizer and water will cause leggy branches and leaves. It has the characteristics of fine leaves, dense branches, thick trunk, and exposed roots, so it is one of the excellent materials for bonsai. The branches and stems of Serissa japonica are soft and tough and can withstand wiring. It is divided into straight trunk style, twisted style, cascade style, etc. If the pot body is tall, it can be grown into cascade style. Cascade style is further divided into semi-cascade, full cascade, and small cascade according to the degree of inclination. So-called semi-cascade means the trunk basically extends horizontally beyond the pot rim. In full cascade the trunk must hang down 45 degrees below the pot rim. In small cascade the trunk generally hangs down about 30 to 40 degrees. A natural style with slight trimming is also acceptable.
Propagation is mainly by cuttings, and layering, division, and cuttings can also be used. Generally, hardwood is used in early spring, but in the plum rain season soft branches and old branches can both be used. When making small or miniature bonsai, to promote shaping as quickly as possible, often in the plum rain season of June-July, take perennial branches with beautiful posture and a large-tree form, cut the lower cut into a horseshoe shape, insert them into vermiculite or sand, cover with film to keep warm, pay attention to misting, and they can root in about 40 days. At this point transplant them, and with a little binding and pruning they can be shaped. Because this plant is easy to find in mountain and field areas everywhere, some flower growers often dig it directly from the woods and bring it back for potting.
Serissa japonica has strong adaptability, and cultivation and maintenance are relatively simple. However, because it fears blazing sun exposure, during the growing season it should preferably be placed in semi-shade and humid places such as tree shade, otherwise too strong light will affect growth and be detrimental to ornament. Although this plant relatively likes fertilizer, if too much fertilizer is applied, branch growth becomes excessive and new branches easily become leggy. Generally, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water only once before winter and once after flowering. It has a certain drought tolerance but is not tolerant of waterlogging. Watering should follow the principle of dry-wet alternation and no watering when not dry. In the rainy season, prevent water accumulation in the pot; if the weather is very rainy, place the pot on its side; in summer when temperatures are high and dry, spray water on the leaf surface in the morning and evening to lower temperature and increase air humidity, so as to promote growth and flowering.
Because Serissa japonica has particularly strong sprouting ability, many new branches will sprout from the main trunk and roots, and excess new shoots should be removed in time to avoid consuming nutrients and disrupting the normal development of the tree shape. Branches that sprout after flowering and protrude beyond the crown must also be pruned, otherwise the ornamental effect is affected.
If Serissa japonica is kept above 5°C in winter, its branches and leaves remain lush and evergreen, but the soil must not be too dry; keep it slightly moist.
[Bonsai making methods]:
Sources of stump material: Carry out division propagation in March in spring, and cutting propagation (branch cuttings or root cuttings) from April to October. If protected cultivation (seedbed) is used for propagation, cuttings can be carried out from November to January of the following year. In the southeastern and central provinces and regions of China, wild tree stumps can also be dug from the field for cultivation and processing.
Processing and shaping: The "trunk-building and trunk-cutting method" can be used for processing, and the "pruning and wiring combined method" can also be used for processing and shaping. Wiring is often carried out from after half leaf drop in winter to before bud break in spring. The main trunk and main branches are wired with metal wire, and the small branches are shaped through fine pruning.
Transplanting and potting: Transplanting and potting are suitable in February to March, and can also be done in the plum rain season and late autumn. Choose relatively shallow round, square, or oval purple clay pots or glazed pots, and the pot color should preferably be slightly darker to form a contrast with the flower color. The pot soil should be sandy loam rich in organic matter, loose and fertile, and with good drainage and air permeability. It can be mixed and prepared with humus soil, pine needle soil, and peat mixed with 40% sand or rice husk ash.
Water and fertilizer management: During the growing season, water frequently to keep the pot soil moist. It should not be too dry or too wet for long periods, and absolutely avoid water accumulation in the pot or loss of water from the pot soil. In summer, spray water on the leaf surface 1-2 times a day; in winter, appropriately reduce watering frequency, keeping the pot soil moist and slightly dry. From April to May each year, water with 2-3 applications of 0.5% phosphorus-potassium fertilizer solution; in the twelfth lunar month, apply 1-2 times dilute organic fertilizer solution; do not fertilize in other seasons. Avoid applying concentrated fertilizer.
Light and temperature requirements: During the growing season, it should preferably be maintained in a sunny, warm and humid, well-ventilated place. In summer and early autumn, shade 50%-70%, and avoid blazing sun. In winter, it can overwinter outdoors in the south, while in the north it should be moved indoors, and the room temperature should preferably be kept at 5-12°C.
Repotting and pruning: Repot once every 1-2 years, in February to March in spring or during late autumn, remove all old soil, and appropriately prune the roots. Root raising can be carried out in conjunction with repotting to form hanging roots and increase ornamental value. Each year from after half leaf drop in winter to before bud break the following spring, carry out one shaping and pruning, shorten long branches and leggy branches, thin out overly dense fine weak branches, and cut off diseased and pest-damaged branches as well as other messy branches that affect ornament; during the growing season, carry out pinching, bud removal, and branch removal in a timely manner to keep a beautiful shape. Healthy branches cut off can be used for cutting propagation.
Pest and disease control: Serissa japonica bonsai has relatively few pests and diseases, with occasional occurrence of aphids and snails. Aphids can be killed by spraying with 500-600-fold diluted essential balm solution; snails can be killed by spraying with 1500-fold 58% Fengleiji emulsifiable concentrate. Root rot sometimes occurs. At the initial stage, use 600-1000-fold 12% copper abietate emulsifiable concentrate, or 800-fold 50% Genfuling, for root drenching and leaf spraying control, spraying (drenching) once every 3-5 days, for 3-4 consecutive sprays (drenches).
Cultural background of Serissa japonica Related legends
Before her death, Dou E once said that she was wronged and that the heavens in this sixth month would testify for her and it would snow. Sure enough, when she died, heavy snow began to fall in the sixth-month sky. Later, people used "snow in the sixth month" to describe "the injustice of Dou E." But as history progressed, Serissa japonica was mostly used by lovesick men and women or literati to describe a snow-floating mood, both cold and drifting with romantic flying catkins.
Peking opera
"The Tale of the Golden Lock," also known as "Snow in June," premiered on April 13, 1924 at Sanqing Garden. Cheng Yanqiu played Dou E, Wang Youquan played Cai Changzong, Guo Zhongheng played Hai Rui, Wen Liangchen played Cai's mother, Cao Ergeng played Zhang Luer, Ci Ruiquan played the prison woman, Ci Shaoquan played the magistrate of Shanyang County, and Li Siguang played Zhang's mother. Records are extant. This was the first new play compiled by Cheng Yanqiu after rearranging an old play, expanding the beginning and end. Everyone knows the source of this play's story is the zaju "The Injustice of Dou E That Moves Heaven and Earth" by Guan Hanqing of the Yuan dynasty, and the chuanqi "The Tale of the Golden Lock" by Ye Xianzu of the Ming dynasty. The Peking opera script has only two scenes, "Prison Visit" and "Execution Ground," and was originally an old Qingyi play. Performing only "Prison Visit" could be staged in the middle of the program; if it included "Execution Ground," it was substantial enough to be the major finale. Mei Lanfang and Shang Xiaoyun both often sang "Snow in June" with "Execution Ground" in their early years. After Cheng Yanqiu adapted "Snow in June" into "The Tale of the Golden Lock," Mei and Shang avoided it thereafter, and "Snow in June" became a Cheng-school play.
Cheng's version of "The Tale of the Golden Lock" begins with Cai Changzong (Dou E's husband) going to the capital to take the imperial examination, with the son of the hired woman Zhang, Zhang Luer, following him. Halfway there he pushed Changzong into the Huai River, and on returning home falsely said Changzong had fallen into the water and died (in fact Changzong was rescued and did not die, which Zhang Luer did not know). Cai's mother was grief-stricken and fell ill, and wanted to eat lamb tripe soup. Zhang Luer secretly put poison in the soup to murder Cai's mother, but unexpectedly his own mother Zhang ate it by mistake and died immediately. Luer took the opportunity to extort, demanding to forcibly take Dou E. The case was brought to the officials, and the county magistrate did not examine Luer's false accusation, but applied torture to Cai's mother to extract a confession; Dou E could not bear to see her mother-in-law suffer, so she stepped forward and falsely confessed despite her grievance, and was sentenced to beheading. The execution took place in the sixth month, when suddenly heavy snow fell from the sky. It happened that Hai Rui was touring as imperial inspector and arrived there, knew there was a wrongful case, and immediately ordered the execution stopped. After retrial, the facts of the case were fully clarified, and Zhang Luer was executed by slow slicing. At this time Cai Changzong returned after coming first in the imperial examination, and the whole family was reunited. This play premiered on April 13, the 13th year of the Republic of China, as the daytime performance of the Hesheng Society at Sanqing Garden.
"The Tale of the Golden Lock" is one of the successful works of Cheng Yanqiu's new plays, popular in both north and south. Whether female roles sing "Snow in June" or the full "The Tale of the Golden Lock," all take Cheng's performance method as the model. Because Cai Changzong used a golden lock as betrothal gift to marry Dou E, the play is titled "The Tale of the Golden Lock." When the female performer Du Liyun performed it, she billed the full "Lamb Tripe Soup," seeking to be novel and different, but it was not as elegant and refined as the original title. Cheng's own strengths in this play will be described in detail later when discussing his theatrical art. The fact that this play of his was often performed to full houses and made people never tire of hearing it repeatedly was also closely related to its strong cast. Besides him playing Dou E, successive young male role performers Wang Youquan, Jiang Miaoxiang, Yu Zhenfei, and others all played Cai Changzong. Wen Liangchen played Cai's mother. Hai Rui was previously Guo Zhongheng, and later Ha Baoshan. The most well-matched were the roles played by four clowns: Li Siguang's Mother Zhang, Cao Ergeng's Zhang Luer, Ci Ruiquan's prison woman, and Ci Shaoquan's magistrate of Shanyang County. All four were first-rate choices, and other troupes absolutely did not have such a strong and complete lineup. Because a play must be performed collectively, only when everyone is good is the whole performance good. Cheng Yanqiu deeply understood this principle, so he gathered these four famous clowns as his long-term troupe.
Serissa japonica pictures
Flower-growing knowledge 1
Benefits of growing flowers at homeOne,
Adds interest to life, makes life more full of vitality, benefits physical and mental health, cultivates noble sentiment, and inspires feeling for life. Meeting friends through flowers brings joy.
Flower-viewing seasons - enjoy flowers in spring, enjoy fragrance in summer, enjoy fruit in autumn, enjoy greenery in winter.
Flower-viewing grade - enjoying with tea is best, enjoying with conversation is next, enjoying with wine is lowest.
Flower-viewing standards - color, fragrance, posture, charm.
Two,
Improve the living environment and implement green environmental protection.
1. Green plants can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Every square meter of green plants absorbs 90 g of carbon dioxide and releases 60 g of oxygen per day.
2. Absorb harmful gases. Absorb formaldehyde - snake plant, Asiatic dayflower, English ivy, spider plant, aloe.
Absorb benzene - English ivy, chrysanthemum, sago palm.
Absorb chlorine - Aglaia odorata, chrysanthemum, Chinese rose, false betel nut, Chinese fan palm.
3. The sterilizing effect of volatile oils from fresh flowers
The fragrant aroma of jasmine and lilac can kill protists in 5 minutes.
4. Regulate temperature
Green plants in urban greening areas can absorb up to 6080 calories of sunlight in summer, lowering the environmental temperature by 3.8°C and shortening the duration of high temperatures each day by 3 hours. Vertical greening on walls can lower wall surface temperature by 5°C.
Home flower-growing methods and commonly used plants
One,
Courtyard flower growing
Combine trees and shrubs with flowers and grasses; combine deciduous plants with evergreen plants; combine foliage viewing with flower and fruit viewing; combine ornament with practicality; fully develop three-dimensional space, with seasonal changes in scenery bringing a fresh feeling.
Plants suitable for planting in small courtyards:
1. Small trees:
Osmanthus, banana shrub, camellia, citrus, loquat, bamboo, purple leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, lilac, maple, pomegranate, jujube, persimmon, etc.
2. Shrubs:
Gardenia, Serissa japonica, pyracantha, Nandina bamboo, wintersweet, Chinese rose, peony, azalea, crabapple, redbud, winter daphne, hydrangea, Hypericum, etc.
3. Herbaceous:
Banana, Tradescantia zebrina, Saxifraga stolonifera, Liriope,
Iris, daylily, peony, yucca, torch lily, New York aster, Phlox, dahlia, lily, narcissus, tuberose, amaryllis, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes carinata, canna, red-flowered oxalis, Dichondra, Manila grass, hybrid bermuda grass, Sedum sarmentosum, scallion, Kalimeris, chrysanthemum greens, lotus, water lily, Hosta, etc.
(4) Vines: Banksia rose, honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, English ivy, wisteria, Boston ivy, grape, kiwifruit, morning glory, cypress vine, etc.
Two,
Balcony and indoor flower growing
Plants suitable for planting on balconies and indoors:
1. Foliage plants:
Spider plant, English ivy, Tradescantia zebrina, Syngonium, Vinca major, rubber tree, small sago cycad, bamboo palm, areca palm, pygmy date palm, asparagus fern, croton, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fern grass, bromeliads, Calathea, ferns, umbrella papyrus, pothos, Philodendron, Cordyline, Dracaena fragrans, Aglaonema, lucky bamboo, Pachira aquatica (money tree), Caladium, Begonia maculata, etc.
2. Flowering plants:
Chinese rose, winter jasmine, plum stump, potted purple leaf plum, winter daphne, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chinese hibiscus.
Clivia, amaryllis, lily, hyacinth, narcissus, red-flowered oxalis, calla lily, cyclamen, freesia, ranunculus. Chinese orchids, tropical orchids, chrysanthemum, gerbera, wax begonia, petunia, nasturtium, pelargonium, fuchsia, Impatiens hawkeri, Impatiens hawkeri.
3. Fruit-viewing plants:
Nandina, finger citron, bitter orange, kumquat, four-season mandarin. Pyracantha, wolfberry, small pomegranate, winter cherry, ornamental pepper, strawberry.
4. Cacti and succulents: cactus, ball cactus, Christmas cactus, crab claw cactus, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, agave, snake plant, ponytail palm (Agavaceae), Lampranthus, rainbow bush, Glottiphyllum, living stones (Aizoaceae), Aeonium, Echeveria, jade plant (Crassulaceae), Kalanchoe, longevity flower, Sedum sarmentosum (Crassulaceae), aloe, Haworthia, Peperomia (Liliaceae), crown of thorns (Euphorbiaceae), Portulacaria afra (Portulacaceae).
5. Vine plants: honeysuckle, grape, morning glory, cypress vine, bitter melon (spiny bitter gourd).
Home flower-growing management Six essentials of flower growing: soil, fertilizer, water, protection, pruning, propagation
1、
Soil
Soil is the foundation for the growth of flowers and trees. It is not only the support that fixes the plant root system for growth and development, but also must provide the necessary nutrients, water, and air for plant growth.
(1) Soil quality requirements Fertile, harmless, loose, breathable, water-retaining, fertilizer-retaining.
(2) Pot soil materials In addition to commonly used soil, home flower-growing pot soil materials also use some mineral materials and biological materials. Therefore, the meaning of pot soil is not limited to soil, so these materials on which plants depend for survival are often collectively called substrates or media in cultivation. Commonly used substrates include: garden soil, mountain soil, pond mud, sand, worm castings, coal cinders, vermiculite, perlite, ceramsite, brick granules, rice husk, rice husk ash, wood shavings, charcoal, grass clippings, bark, cottonseed hulls, peanut shells, pine needles, moss, coconut coir, sugarcane bagasse, etc.
(3) Soil acidity The pH of soil affects the growth and development of flowers. Most flowers are suitable for slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6.0-7.0 (soil pH 7 is neutral soil). Camellia, azalea, orchid, bromeliads, and other flowers require a more acidic soil environment. Usually a pH value of about 5-6 is required. Therefore, the cultivation of these flowers must use mountain soil (orchid soil) with more humus to grow well. Dianthus, dahlia, cacti, pyracantha, pomegranate, grape, and kiwifruit have a broad range of adaptability to soil acidity and can grow in an environment of pH 6-8. For strongly alkaline soil, sulfur powder, ferrous sulfate, or aluminum sulfate can be added to adjust it. Usually the application amount of sulfur powder is 0.1-0.2% of the total soil. For overly acidic soil, lime powder can be used to adjust it, with an application amount of 35-70 g per square meter of land.
(4) Soil improvement
For soil used for planting flowers in courtyards, various construction waste within 40 cm of the soil surface must be cleared. At the positions of tree pits for planting trees, new soil should be replaced within a pit depth of 60-80 cm. For greening land with heavy clay soil, add coarse sand and organic matter rich in fibrous material to facilitate drainage and increase the air permeability and organic matter content of the soil layer.
The preparation of potting soil should be based on the requirements of the plants being grown, with attention to the air permeability, fertility, and suitable soil acidity of the soil. Usually, fertile garden soil (heated soil) plus rice husk ash is made into a cultivation substrate in a ratio of 2-3:1. However, for city flower growing, limited by conditions, it is not easy to obtain high-quality culture soil. Then urban domestic waste such as fallen leaves, sawdust, peanut shells, bean shells, eggshells, sugarcane bagasse, poultry feathers, fish bones, shrimp shells, etc., can be collected, finely cut and crushed, add rice washing water, place in an old vat or plastic bag, and after a relatively long period of fermentation and decomposition, sun-dry, sieve, and mix with part of raw soil (soil excavated from roads and infrastructure) to prepare potted nutrient soil. The old soil replaced after repotting can also be mixed and composted with domestic waste and reused.
Strict potting soil quality requires disinfection. For home flower growing, a simple sunlight disinfection method can be used, that is, in summer spread the soil flat on a cement slab, cover with plastic film, and expose it to strong light for 3-4 days, which can kill a large number of fungal spores, mycelium, pest eggs, and nematodes in the soil. In addition, if conditions permit, heat disinfection and chemical disinfection can also be used.
2、
Fertilizing
Fertilizer is the source of nutrients needed for flower growth and directly affects the growth and development of flowers. For different plants, at different growth stages, applying the required nutrient elements in a timely and appropriate amount can make flowers grow with luxuriant branches and leaves and bloom abundantly.
The 16 nutrient elements needed for flower growth: carbon, hydrogen, oxygen (obtained from air and water), nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, zinc, copper, manganese, molybdenum, chlorine
(1) Types of fertilizer
Organic fertilizer - fertilizer formed from animal and plant residues or excrement after processing, fermentation, and decomposition. Organic fertilizer contains complete nutrient elements needed by flowers. After being applied to the soil, the nutrients gradually decompose. Although the effect is slow, the fertilizer effect is long-lasting, and it can also improve the soil, benefiting root development and the activity of beneficial soil microorganisms. Commonly used organic fertilizers include: livestock and poultry manure, fish meal, bone meal, plant ash, various cake fertilizers, and sesame oil residue, etc.
Inorganic fertilizers (chemical fertilizers) - fertilizers made by chemical methods or processed from natural minerals. They have the advantages of high nutrient content, quick results, easy application, and being clean and hygienic, but their nutrient composition is single, and long-term use tends to make the soil compact. Commonly used ones include: urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, potassium chloride, potassium nitrate, etc., as well as compound fertilizers that have been processed and blended to contain the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
(2) Preparation of organic fertilizers for home flower growing
Courtyard composting - Use a shaded corner of the courtyard, dig a pit, and pile up for decomposition the daily leftover vegetable stems and leaves, bean pods, melon and fruit peels, herbal medicine residues, eggshells, shrimp and crab shells, poultry feathers, fish scales, fish innards, as well as weeds, fallen leaves, etc. To prevent odors from escaping, it can be covered with mud or plastic film.
Home bottle preparation - Use small-mouth waste plastic bottles such as cola bottles and cooking oil bottles as containers, put in fish scales, fish innards, eel, shrimp shells, and other animal scraps, and through fermentation and decomposition make a high-quality liquid quick-acting fertilizer. Soaked spoiled yellow soybeans can also be used for fermentation.
When preparing bottled organic fertilizer, attention should be paid to:
①
The amount of fish scraps added should be about 1/2 to 2/3 of the bottle capacity. Add water to near the bottle mouth (leave a certain gap).
②
To reduce the odor during fertilizer fermentation, a portion of orange peel can be added at the same time. Generally, a 2.5-liter cooking oil bottle can hold 3-4 orange peels. The orange peel can be torn into pieces or cut finely before being put in. Fresh orange peel can be used, and air-dried old orange peel can also be used.
③
After preparation, after the bottle cap is tightened, it must be unscrewed back 2-3 threads to leave a gap for gas, otherwise due to fermentation inside the bottle, gas expansion may blow off the cap, causing the unbearable consequence of odors spreading everywhere.
④
Bottled organic fertilizer needs 4-5 months to ferment in summer, and generally about one year to decompose. Its solution can be diluted with water and used to water flowers.
Use of broad bean pods - Green broad bean pods are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium nutrients, are easy to collect in cities, and are clean and hygienic. During preparation, the pods can be sun-dried, crushed, and stored for later use. When making potting soil, they can be mixed in, and they can also be applied as a base fertilizer when repotting or planting potted flowers.
(3) Rational fertilization
① Base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilization
Base fertilizer - mainly uses organic fertilizers that decompose slowly and have long-lasting fertilizer effects. It supplies the entire annual growth period of flowers. For courtyard flower growing, in winter or early spring, dig trenches or holes around the main planted flowers and trees and bury deeply, or apply it when the soil is plowed before planting. For potted flowers, it is mixed in when preparing potting soil, or applied to the bottom of the flowerpot before planting. Commonly used base fertilizers include compost made from decomposed animal and plant residues, dried poultry and livestock manure, decomposed cake fertilizer crumbs, etc. In cities, the oil residue left after pressing small-mill sesame oil can be used and has good fertilizer effect. Some also use fried or cooked soybeans placed in the middle and lower layers of potted flowers as supplementary base fertilizer.
Topdressing - Use inorganic fertilizers that take effect quickly and can be quickly absorbed and utilized by flowers, or the leachate after fermentation of organic fertilizers, and add them when needed at each stage of flower growth and development. Commonly used ones include urea, monopotassium phosphate, etc.
Foliar fertilization - also called root-outside topdressing. After dissolving chemical fertilizer in water, spray it on the plants so that nutrients penetrate into the plant body through the underside of the leaves. It has the characteristics of convenient operation and quick results. When using it, note: the chemical fertilizer concentration should be kept at 0.1-
0.2%; too concentrated will cause harm to plants. For flowers grown on balconies and outdoors, spraying fertilizer should preferably be done in the evening, to prevent the fertilizer concentration from increasing and causing fertilizer burn after strong sunlight following fertilization. When spraying, attention should be paid to the underside of the leaves.
② Fertilization principles and methods
Suitable for the flower, suitable timing, suitable condition, suitable amount, apply thin fertilizer frequently
Suitable for the flower - foliage plants need more nitrogen fertilizer; fruit- and flower-viewing plants need more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable timing - when shoots and leaves are sprouting, mainly nitrogen fertilizer; before flower bud differentiation, flower bud formation, and flowering, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable condition - the "four more, four less, four not": apply more to yellow and thin plants, apply more before germination, apply more before budding, apply more after flowering. Apply less to fat and strong plants, apply less at germination, apply less at flowering, apply less in the rainy season. Do not apply to newly planted plants, do not apply to leggy plants, do not apply to diseased and weak plants, do not apply in midsummer.
Suitable amount - thin fertilizer: for organic fertilizer use 7-8 parts water plus 2-3 parts fertilizer; for chemical fertilizer use a concentration of 0.1-0.3%. Apply frequently: once every 7-10 days during the growth period. Three taboos of fertilization - avoid concentrated fertilizer; concentrated fertilizer causes cell sap to exude outward and leads to death.
Avoid hot fertilizer; at noon in summer the soil temperature is high, and topdressing harms the roots.
Avoid sitting fertilizer; after applying base fertilizer at the bottom of a flowerpot, first cover it with a thin layer of soil.
Then plant the flower. Avoid the root system sitting directly on the fertilizer.
3、
Watering
Watering is the main management task in home flower growing. Water is an important component of plants and an indispensable main substance for physiological activities.
(1) Courtyard watering
In dry seasons, water must be supplemented to keep the soil moist; in rainy seasons, attention must be paid to drainage to prevent the root system from suffocating and dying due to water accumulation and lack of oxygen.
When watering, generally ensure the difference between water temperature and soil temperature does not exceed 5°C. In summer, water in the early morning and evening; in winter, water around noon.
(2) Watering potted flowers
Watering principle - alternate dry and wet, do not water when not dry, water as soon as it looks dry, and water thoroughly when watering.
Alternate dry and wet means making the soil sometimes dry and sometimes wet. This not only ensures water supply for the flowers and trees, but also allows the potting soil to breathe, protecting root development.
The standard for dry is that the upper layer of potting soil is dry, the bottom soil still has moisture, and the plant grows normally or the leaves show brief wilting at noon.
When flowering plants lack water, they first show wilting of the petals. If leaves and flowers show signs of water loss, water must be supplemented immediately to restore vitality.
The principle of watering thoroughly means the amount of water should be enough to see water seeping from the bottom of the pot. Half-way water that wets the top and leaves the bottom dry is a major taboo in potted flower management, because it uses the appearance of surface moisture to conceal the essence of water shortage, causing root death from lack of water. Plants that have been cut off from water are very difficult to revive even if watered again for rescue.
(3) More or less watering.
Water more for herbaceous plants, water less for woody plants; water more for moisture-loving flowers, water less for drought-loving flowers;
Water more for large, soft leaves; water less for small, waxy leaves;
Water more during vigorous growth, water less when entering dormancy;
Water more when the plant is large and the pot is small; water less when the plant is small and the pot is large;
Water more on balconies, water less in courtyards; water more in summer, water less in winter; water more on clear dry days; water less on cloudy days;
Water more at budding, water less at flowering.
(4) Rescue of drought dehydration and waterlogged root rot
When woody plants suffer long-term drought dehydration and their stems and leaves wilt, but the stems still have life, they should first be moved to a shaded place to reduce water evaporation from the plant body. Spray water to maintain humidity in the aboveground environment. After watering the roots, do not continuously replenish water, to prevent root hypoxia. According to the principle of alternate dry and wet, keep the soil breathable to promote new root growth and restore vitality. For severely dehydrated plants, according to the aboveground growth state, carry out appropriate pruning to help re-sprout and produce leaves.
If potted soil accumulates water after long rain and the plant suffers waterlogging damage, with branches and leaves wilting and losing vigor, the plant must immediately be moved out of the pot with soil, placed in a cool, ventilated place, and the root soil moisture allowed to dissipate. After 3-5 days, when growth resumes, repot it. During continuous rainy weather, outdoor potted plants can be laid on their sides to avoid water accumulation. After long rain, if the weather suddenly clears with strong sunlight and the plant is exposed to the sun, root growth may be damaged and branch and leaf transpiration may be too strong, causing severe water loss and death. Therefore, attention should be paid to strictly controlling water, moving the position, and shading for recovery.
(5) Different watering methods
When watering potted flowers, in most cases avoid pouring water directly overhead. For gloxinia, African violet, and similar flowers, water on the flowers and leaves will cause rot of flowers and leaves. However, bromeliads require overhead watering so that the leaf cups store water and meet growth needs. Orchids and arrowroot-family flowers, besides appropriate watering, require spraying to increase the air humidity of the growing environment.
Indoor foliage plants have greatly differing water requirements according to differences in the growth characteristics of their places of origin. Monstera, Philodendron, calla lily, and other Araceae plants, ferns, and umbrella plant belong to moisture-loving flowers, and watering should follow "better wet than dry," but they should not be waterlogged. Snake plant, aloe, sedum, and other succulents, as well as cacti, are drought-loving flowers, and watering should follow "better dry than wet," to prevent root rot from too much water. Other plants such as asparagus fern, sago palm, and begonia, most of which belong to intermediate-type flowers, react badly to potting soil that is too dry or too wet, and watering can follow the principle of "alternate dry and wet."
4、
Protecting flowers In home flower growing, it is necessary to protect flowers for safe summering and wintering, and to prevent and control pests and diseases.
(1) Summering and wintering
The suitable growth temperature for most flowers is 15-25°C. If the temperature exceeds 40°C or falls below the minimum temperature that different flowers can tolerate, the flowers will be harmed.
① Safe summering
High summer temperatures and strong sunlight often make some temperate plants unable to adapt to the severe heat, and make some shade-loving plants susceptible to sunburn. Therefore, home flower growing can use methods such as shading, ventilation, spraying water, and adjusting the placement of potted flowers to improve the environmental impact, lower the temperature, and help flowers summer safely.
② Safe wintering
Frost damage and freezing damage in winter greatly affect flower growth, and some cold-intolerant flowers will die from frost. In autumn, plants are still in the growth period, and some flowers suffer damage to both leaves and buds as soon as the first frost comes. In spring, after dormancy, plants begin to sprout and germinate; if hit by late frost at this time, the damage is also very serious. The first frost period in the Suzhou area generally appears in early to mid-November, and the last frost period is from the end of March to early April. Therefore, during this period, in order to prevent frost damage and low-temperature freezing damage below 0°C, for flowers susceptible to damage, courtyard cultivation can be protected by covering with soil or film. Potted flowers on balconies can be protected by building a plastic shed against the south wall. In the evening when there is severe cold, woven bags or gunny bags and other coverings should also be added on the shed roof and around it for warmth. For balconies already enclosed with glass, cold-intolerant plants such as Milan, hibiscus, crab claw orchid, Impatiens walleriana, and croton should be moved indoors and covered with transparent plastic bags to protect them through winter. To increase the cold resistance of flowers and trees in winter, management should moderate watering, but water still needs to be supplemented as appropriate. Due to negligent management, home flower growing in winter often also suffers from death by drying out.
(2) Pest and disease control In home flower growing, pest and disease control should follow the principle of "prevention first." Strengthen management, improve the ventilation conditions of the growing environment, do a good job in fertilizer and water management and pruning, make the flowers and trees grow vigorously, and enhance their own resistance to pests and diseases. Also promptly remove dead branches and fallen leaves to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
① Pests
Pests have two types according to their feeding methods.
Chewing pests:
They damage roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits, and the damaged parts show notches, holes, and even cavities. Such as green caterpillars, nettle caterpillars, longhorn beetles, grubs (scarab beetle larvae), etc.
Use stomach poisons and contact insecticides such as deltamethrin, trichlorfon, fenvalerate, phoxim, etc.
Sucking pests:
Pests pierce into the plant body with their mouthparts and suck sap. Such as aphids, scale insects, and red spiders (mites), etc.
The damaged stems and leaves show symptoms such as spots, shriveling, and discoloration.
Use contact and systemic pesticides for control, such as dimethoate, propargite, etc.
② Diseases
There are mainly three types of pathogens causing plant diseases.
Fungal diseases:
Caused by fungal infection, mold-like or powdery substances can be seen growing on the host surface.
Symptoms include damping-off, seedling blight, spots, scab, mold rot, wilting, etc.
Main chemicals used include carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, etc.
Bacterial diseases:
Caused by bacteria, leaves show water-soaked, semi-transparent lesions, and are limited by leaf veins.
Tender organs become necrotic, appearing slimy, with a foul odor. In diseased stems showing wilting, cross-sections show browning of vascular bundles.
Main chemicals used include: validamycin, agricultural streptomycin, etc.
5、
Pruning
Pruning and shaping flowers and trees can regulate growth, flowering, and fruiting. Pruning can also improve ventilation and light conditions, and promote robust growth of branches and leaves. Common methods in home flower growing include pinching, branch pruning, bud removal, and leaf removal.
(1) Pinching is commonly used on herbaceous flower seedlings. After the main stem of the herbaceous flower is removed, it helps promote the germination of lateral buds, increase branching, and achieve the goals of dwarfing the plant and having more branches and flowers. It can also adjust the flowering period. It is often applied to chrysanthemums, salvia, petunias, marigolds, etc.
(2) Branch pruning There are two pruning methods. One is removing from the base of the branch, called thinning. Thinning is cutting out overly dense branches as well as crossing branches, leggy branches, weak slender branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches, and dead branches, which helps ventilation and light penetration in the tree body and enhances plant growth vigor.
The other method is cutting the branch shorter, called heading back. Heading back can promote the germination of lateral buds on the branch, adjust growth vigor, and help flowering and fruiting. For roses, in winter, leaving branches about 20-30 cm and cutting them back can control plant height and make spring flowering lush and uniform. Heading back the leggy branches of wintersweet can promote lateral bud germination and form flowering branches for the next year. Different flowers and trees have different growth habits; some branches form flower buds at the terminal bud, and some form flower buds at lateral buds, so heading back should also adopt correspondingly different methods.
(3) Bud removal During the growth period of flowers and trees, adventitious buds often appear. If allowed to grow, they will consume nutrients, disturb the tree shape, and affect ventilation and light penetration, so they need to be removed in the early stage of bud germination. For grafted rose seedlings, the sprouts on the rootstock suckers are all wild roses and must all be removed.
(4) Leaf removal For some foliage plants, such as spider plant, aglaonema, Aspidistra, calla lily, etc., some old leaves should be removed in time to promote new leaves. For jasmine, after being brought out in spring, removing old leaves can promote more new shoots and new leaves, vigorous growth, and more flower buds.
6、
Propagation
In home flower growing, propagating new plants and new seedlings yourself adds more pleasure to growing flowers. Commonly used methods include sowing, cuttings, division, layering, and grafting.
(1) Sowing Seeds must be collected after they are fully mature.
Dry, low-temperature storage conditions can extend seed life. For home storage, seeds can be packed in plastic bags and placed in the refrigerator crisper.
Biennial herbaceous flowers that bloom in spring are sown in mid-to-late August. Annual flowers that bloom in autumn are sown from late March to early April in spring. After sowing, the soil covering thickness should be 2-3 times the height of the seed. Seed germination requires temperature, moisture, and air. Generally 20-25°C is most suitable for germination. The sowing bed soil must not become compacted or waterlogged, so as to provide the oxygen needed for germination.
After emergence, when they have 2-4 leaves, they should be transplanted.
(2) Cuttings
This uses the regenerative ability of plant organs such as roots, stems, leaves, and buds after leaving the parent plant to cultivate new plants.
The soil (medium) used for cuttings should be loose, breathable, and harmless. For home propagation, materials such as rice husk ash, yellow sand, perlite, and vermiculite can be used.
For woody plants propagated by stem cuttings, choose fully grown current-year branches, with cutting material 10-15 cm long, with 3-4
buds, and insert 5-6 cm into the soil. The lower cut of the cutting should be at a node. Dormant branch cuttings are done 10-15 days before germination. Green branch cuttings with leaves can be done throughout the growth period after the new shoots mature. But the aboveground leaves should be appropriately trimmed off to reduce transpiration and help rooting.
Herbaceous plant cuttings should choose tender stems with full tissue. Wax begonia, petunia, Impatiens walleriana, Guinea impatiens, salvia, and marigold all root easily.
Most succulents can be propagated by leaf cuttings.
For home cuttings, use flowerpots as cutting beds, place tile pieces at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage, always keep the soil moist, and the cutting pot should avoid direct sunlight. If it can be sprayed frequently to maintain a certain air humidity, it can be placed in sunlight. Rose cuttings in summer can root in about 10 days.
(3) Division and bulb separation
Some perennial flowers and shrubs, such as daylily, iris, asparagus fern, broadleaf lady palm, umbrella plant, wintersweet, peony, etc., after growing for several years, have enlarged clumps, and in early spring or autumn, the clumps can be dug up and divided into several individual plants. When dividing, each plant should carry as many roots as possible, and the area of the cut wounds should be reduced.
Bulbous flowers such as tulips, lilies, narcissus, gladiolus, and oxalis can be propagated by separating small bulbs.
(4) Layering
For flowers and trees such as osmanthus, camellia, and wintersweet, branches close to the ground can be bent and pressed into the soil without detaching from the parent plant, prompting the middle stem nodes of the buried branch portion to root. Usually layering is carried out in March-April. The buried portion needs to be notched or ring-barked to help callus tissue at the wound site produce new roots. In autumn, cut below the rooted portion to cultivate a new plant.
On the upper part of the flower or tree plant, select a branch about 0.5-1.0 cm in diameter, perform ring-barking, with a ring width of 0.3-1.5 cm. On the outside use a bamboo tube or plastic bag to wrap a breathable, moisture-retaining material to promote rooting at the ring-barked part. This is called air layering. The suitable season for air layering is preferably before the plum rain.
(5) Grafting (omitted) The key to successful grafting lies in: the nutritional status of the grafting materials, compatibility, the temperature and humidity environment after grafting, and grafting technique. Commonly used methods include two types: scion grafting and bud grafting.
Home floral art
1、
Flower arranging Flower arranging uses fresh flowers as the main material and, through certain techniques, forms a living work of art, making the home environment more pleasing to the eye and full of vitality. For the flower configuration in flower arranging, the following main points should generally be mastered.
(1) High and low staggered The positions of the flower branches should be staggered front and back, high and low. Absolutely avoid being on the same straight line or the same plane.
(2) Proper spacing and density The flower branches or leaves should not be arranged at equal distances; there should be both sparseness and density.
(3) Combination of solid and void Flowers are solid, leaves are void. With both flowers and leaves, flowers are the main body and leaves are the accompaniment. Small flowers such as baby's breath can also be used as accompaniment to give the whole composition a hazy feel.
(4) Mutual response of high and low The upper, lower, left, and right flower branches should echo one another around the main flower branch, maintaining overall unity and balance among the branches.
(5) Light on top, heavy below When combining flower branches, buds are above and fully open flowers are below; light-colored flowers are above and dark-colored flowers are below; smaller flowers with posture are above and large, round flowers are below. This makes the composition balanced and natural.
(6) Loose above, gathered below In a combination of multiple flower branches, the upper flowers can be spread out, and the lower flowers should be gathered together.
European-style flower arranging forms lush geometric patterns, with brilliant and vivid colors, embodying the beauty of artificial art and pattern. Eastern-style flower arranging often favors elegance and simplicity in its branches, upholds nature, is plain and refined, and is rich in profound meaning.
2、
Bonsai
Bonsai uses tree stumps, rocks, and other materials as raw materials and, through artistic processing and careful cultivation, reproduces the divine appearance of nature in a pot. It is often called "silent poetry, three-dimensional painting." (1) Tree stump bonsai The shaping of tree stumps should show vigor and ancient simplicity, and the techniques to master are:
The lower part should reveal claws - expose the roots below the tree above the soil.
The middle should wrinkle - make the trunk curved, avoiding straightness. The bark should have cracks or wrinkles.
The upper part should form clouds - the crown and leaves should be luxuriant like clouds.
When planting two plants together in a pot, it is best to have one large and one small, like an old one carrying a young one, the old tree affectionate and the young tree graceful, like people standing together and looking at each other. For three or more plants, the greatest taboo is for roots and tops to be all uniform, shaped like a tied bundle of firewood; they must yield to each other left and right and interweave naturally.
(2) Landscape bonsai With rocks as the main body, it expresses the profound artistic conception of natural landscapes. The capacity of the bonsai should embody "one peak suggests Mount Hua a thousand xun high, one spoon suggests rivers and lakes ten thousand li." Its value lies in showing the large within the small and being fascinating. Landscape bonsai should apply the principles of perspective, with near objects large and far objects small, near objects solid and far objects void, to make the scenery magnificent and profound. According to the principle of seeing the far within the near, there are three types of landscape bonsai layouts, namely:
①High distance - looking up at the mountain from its foot is called high distance.
Mountain stones should occupy about 6/10 of the pot surface. The ratio of the main peak height to the pot rim height is 20-25:1. Usually a single block of mountain stone is the main feature, or a lower complementary scene is placed near the main body to set off the main scene.
②Deep distance - viewing the mountain stones from in front of the mountain is called deep distance.
Mountain stones generally occupy about 5/10 of the pot surface. The ratio of the main peak height to the pot rim height is 15:1. The mountain group is arranged in a "zigzag" longitudinal row, jagged and interlocking, solid in front and empty behind, layer upon layer. The mountain peaks seem exposed yet hidden, appearing and disappearing, making the scene deep and distant.
③Level distance - looking into the distance from a nearby mountain is called level distance.
In a level-distance layout, the panoramic scene is mostly water, with mountains as flat ridges and small mounds; the mountain forms are gentle with few gullies, arranged in scattered and winding order.
Mountain stones [occupy] about 3/10 of the pot surface. The ratio of the main peak height to the pot height is 6:1. In landscape bonsai, blank space must be handled well; blank space represents the water surface, so that water surrounds the mountains and the mountains are enlivened by the water; mountains are solid and water is empty: they complement each other. Generally, to express a broad water surface, the blank space may account for more than 2/3. To express a mountain-dominated scene, the blank space may account for 1/3. Landscape bonsai can be embellished with figures, birds and beasts, towers, pavilions, pagodas, bridges, boats, and sails. But attention must be paid to proportion and to reasonable harmony and unity with the scenery. The scene can be arranged according to the size scale of "a zhang for mountains, a chi for trees, a cun for horses, a fen for people."
3. Hydroponic flowers
Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants grown in nutrient solution without a growing medium. It is currently a very novel way of growing flowers at home. Its greatest advantages are that it is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, is easy to maintain, and also allows you to observe the growth of the plant root system.
The flowers suitable for hydroponics are quite wide-ranging, including aquatic plants, hygrophytes, mesophytes, and a group of plants that are relatively intolerant of drought. For home hydroponics, species with moderate plant shape and beautiful flowers and leaves should be chosen so they can be placed on desks and tables. Commonly used ones include: water hyacinth (water hyacinth), Nuphar japonicum, Cyperus alternifolius, Syngonium podophyllum, Epipremnum aureum, Philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, lucky bamboo, Rhapis excelsa, spider plant, English ivy, narcissus, hyacinth, amaryllis, tulip, nasturtium, maranta, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aucuba japonica, bromeliads, and other plants.
Hydroponic containers can use many kinds of transparent glass vessels; for simple home culture, mineral water bottles can also be used. Placing some colored glass balls in the container can both fix the root system and add color to the culture vessel.
A simple general formula for hydroponic nutrient solution: for every 1000 g of water, add 0.74 g calcium nitrate, 0.48 g potassium nitrate, 0.12 g monopotassium phosphate, and 0.37 g magnesium sulfate. At home, a 0.1-0.2% urea and monopotassium phosphate solution can also be used. For bulbous flowers and short-term water-cultured foliage plants, clean water can also be used for water culture when chemical raw materials are not easy to purchase.
The water used for water culture needs to be changed frequently, which can reduce water quality spoilage and increase oxygen in the water. The water level in bottle culture should not be too high; it is best to let part of the root base be exposed to the air to facilitate oxygen uptake.
4. Bottle planting
Use glass bottles, goldfish tanks, and other glass vessels to cultivate flowers, making a "bottle scene" or "glass garden."
Plants more suitable for bottle planting often include ferns, spider plant, Tradescantia zebrina, begonia, Cordyline, small-leaf English ivy, Acorus gramineus, cactus plants, and succulents, etc. When planting, a variety of compatible plants are often used to configure the bottle scene, and the bottle top can be sealed or covered. At the bottom of the bottle, first spread charcoal crumbs, sand and gravel, peat, perlite, sphagnum moss, etc. as the substrate, then plant the flowers. Outside the glass bottle, one can watch the growth of a garden scene, full of endless charm and uniquely styled.
5. Combined potted planting
Combined potted planting is the use of multiple ornamental plants, using artistic arrangement techniques, planted together in one container to form the collective beauty of flowers. Generally, one container can be planted with a combination of 3-5 kinds of plants. When combining, attention should be paid. (1) The plant traits in the combination should be similar. For example, shade-tolerant or sun-loving, moisture-tolerant or moisture-intolerant should each be combined separately to facilitate management.
(2) Flower shape and flower color should match leaf shape and leaf color. This enables the combined group to create a sense of beauty in color, form, posture, and charm.
(3) The container should be harmonious with the grouped plants. The texture, size, color, and shape of the container all affect the style of the potted planting.
(4) In potted combinations, the main plant must first be determined. Generally, the main scenic plant should be placed in the center or at the 2/3 position of a long pot, and then some companion plants should be arranged; gaps can also be left and decorated with pebbles and shells. At the edge of the container, trailing plants can also be planted to hang down and conceal the rim.
(5) According to the condition of the container, different methods of removing the plants from pots or planting them in their original pots may be adopted for the combined plants.
Common misunderstandings in flower growing
Misunderstanding 1: Watering too much
In summer, giving flowers more "drink" is not necessarily better the more the better. Water once every morning, and in the evening appropriately supplement according to the dryness of the pot soil; try not to water during the day. When watering, water thoroughly, judged by water flowing out from the bottom of the pot. For some flowers with fleshy roots, such as clivia, the amount of watering must be controlled; if the flowers "drink" too much, it is very easy to cause root rot. This kind of flower also cannot withstand exposure to strong sun; you can spray some water on the leaf surface when it is relatively dry at noon. For some relatively drought-tolerant flowers, such as cacti and succulents in the Crassulaceae family, less "drinking" is needed; too much water easily causes root rot.
Misunderstanding 2: Placing them indoors
Summer sunlight is strong, so simply move the flowers indoors. But they will grow poorly due to lack of sunlight. Sun-loving flowers are not afraid of strong sunlight, but still need appropriate shading at noon. If they are neutral, then appropriate shading is needed. If they are balcony potted flowers, they can be moved indoors from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day. If they are shade-loving, then contact with strong light must absolutely be prevented.
Misunderstanding 3: Fertilizing too much
If too much fertilizer is applied, the flowers cannot absorb it, and instead the root system is damaged. Of course, flowers that bloom in summer are generally relatively tolerant of high temperatures, and a moderate amount of extra fertilizer can be applied, such as crape myrtle, jasmine, balsam, cockscomb, dahlia, etc.; fertilizer can be supplemented during the flowering period to make them lush with branches and leaves. For some ornamental-fruit flowers such as kumquat and five-color pepper, applying phosphorus fertilizer after the flowers fade can make them bear more fruit. For tropical foliage plants such as rubber tree and Monstera deliciosa, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to make the leaves greener. Apply thin fertilizer frequently; too high a concentration easily causes fertilizer burn.
Common flower poison hazards:
Oleander: It blooms in spring, summer, and autumn every year. It is a flower that can be ornamental and medicinal but can also poison people. Its stems, leaves, and even flowers are toxic. If its scent is smelled for too long, it can make people drowsy and reduce intelligence. The milky white sap it secretes can cause poisoning if mistakenly ingested.
Poinsettia: The whole plant is toxic, especially the white sap in the stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin, causing redness and swelling and allergic reactions. If the stems and leaves are mistakenly eaten, there is a risk of poisoning and death.
Narcissus: Growing it at home is generally no problem, but do not break its bulb, because it contains lycorine toxin, and mistaken ingestion can cause vomiting and enteritis; the sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling. Be especially careful not to get this sap into your eyes.
Corn poppy: The whole plant is toxic and contains toxic alkaloids, with the fruit being the most toxic. If mistakenly ingested, it can cause poisoning of the central nervous system, and in severe cases may even endanger life.
Calla lily: The flower is toxic and contains large amounts of calcium oxalate crystals and alkaloids, etc. Mistaken ingestion can cause symptoms such as coma and other poisoning symptoms.
Lantana: Both flowers and leaves are toxic. Mistaken ingestion can cause symptoms such as diarrhea and fever.
Datura: Also known as belladonna flower, common in rural areas south of the Yangtze River. Children will be poisoned if they mistakenly eat it.
Night-blooming cestrum: After stopping photosynthesis at night, it releases a large amount of waste gas. This waste gas smells very fragrant, but it is harmful to human health. If it is kept indoors for a long time, it can cause dizziness, coughing, and even asthma and insomnia. Therefore, if night-blooming cestrum is placed indoors during the day, it should be moved outdoors in the evening.
Tulip: The flower contains toxic alkaloids. If humans and animals stay in such flower clusters for 2 hours to 3 hours, they will feel dizzy and experience poisoning symptoms; in severe cases, it can also cause hair loss. It is not suitable for planting at home.
Lycoris radiata: It contains lycoris alkaloids, and the whole plant is toxic. Mistaken ingestion causes vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases, it can also cause speech impairment and bleeding from the mouth and nose.
Rhododendron: The plants and flowers of yellow rhododendrons contain toxins, and mistaken ingestion causes poisoning; the flowers of white rhododendrons contain tetracyclic diterpenoid toxins. After poisoning, people will experience vomiting, difficulty breathing, numbness of the limbs, etc.; in severe cases, it can cause shock and seriously harm human health.
Redbud: If people come into contact with the pollen it releases for too long, it can induce asthma or worsen coughing symptoms.
Delphinium: Also known as radish flower, the whole plant is toxic, and the seeds are even more toxic, mainly containing terpenoid alkaloids. If mistakenly ingested, it causes nervous system poisoning; in severe cases, spasms and respiratory failure occur and lead to death.
Nandina: Elegantly slender, yet the whole plant is toxic, mainly containing nandina alkaloids and nandina glycosides, etc. After mistaken ingestion, it easily causes poisoning symptoms such as whole-body twitching, spasms, and coma.
Mimosa: It contains mimosine. Too much contact with this toxin can cause sparse eyebrows, yellowing hair, and even hair loss. Therefore, do not fiddle with it too much with your fingers.
Dieffenbachia: The leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine. Mistaken ingestion causes pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus, and gastrointestinal tract; in severe cases, it damages the vocal cords and makes a person mute.
Wisteria: Its seeds, stems, and bark are all toxic. The seeds contain cytisine. Mistaken ingestion causes vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases, it can also cause bleeding from the mouth and nose, cold hands and feet, and even shock and death.
Chinese rose: The rich fragrance it releases can suddenly make some people feel chest tightness and discomfort, and difficulty breathing after smelling it.
Lily: If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it can overexcite the human central nervous system and cause insomnia.
Cactus plants: The spines contain toxic juice. After being pricked, the human body will experience allergic symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, pain, and itching, causing general discomfort and restlessness.
Pines and cypresses: The fragrant odor released by such flowers and trees has an irritating effect on the human gastrointestinal tract. If smelled for too long, it not only affects people's appetite, but also makes pregnant women feel upset, nauseated, and dizzy.
Orchid: If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it can make people overly excited and cause insomnia.
Hydrangea: If the microparticles it releases come into contact with people, they can cause itching of the skin in some people.
Crown-of-thorns, balsam, iris, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Codiaeum variegatum, Euphorbia antiquorum, and Euphorbia neriifolia, and other beautiful flowers and ornamental plants. The cancer-promoting effects of these plants have been confirmed in research on nasopharyngeal carcinoma and esophageal cancer.
Some plants have overly strong floral fragrances, such as night-blooming cestrum and lantana. Being surrounded by this smell for a long time makes it unbearable. Even for famous fragrant flowers such as narcissus and roses, they may at first feel fragrant and pleasant, but after a long time, especially during sleep, breathing in these scents will make them unbearable...
There are also some plants such as poinsettia, poppy, oleander, and zhuangyuanhong, etc., which release toxic odors; frequent contact is even more harmful to the human body. Even for some flower plants that have medicinal effects on people, being together day and night and in close contact with healthy people is also harmful to health.
Dieffenbachia: Botanists have determined that it contains some toxic enzymes (commonly known as dumb cane enzyme). Its stem and leaf juice is strongly irritating when it touches the skin. If an infant accidentally bites it, it can cause throat edema due to strong irritation of the oral mucosa, and even paralyze the vocal cords and cause loss of voice. Therefore, people commonly call dieffenbachia "dumb cane," and there is a saying, "The flower is lovely, but the poison is hard to bear." (Reposted from Diyin, Qianchang, Qingwu)