How to propagate chrysanthemums? A detailed guide to tissue culture and rapid propagation methods
The chrysanthemum is one of China's national flowers, with high ornamental value and a character of enduring cold and defying snow. It is a very popular potted flower. Below, the editor shares a rapid propagation method for chrysanthemums with all flower lovers.
1 Establishment of aseptic seedlings
1.1 Material collection
Tissue culture of chrysanthemums usually uses tender stems, stem tips or petioles as explants. In this article, the tender stems of chrysanthemums are cut into segments and used as explants.
1.2 Disinfection and inoculation
First, wash the tender stems of pest- and disease-affected chrysanthemums with a washing solution; this is the first step of disinfection. Then the tender stems must be rinsed multiple times with clean water until they are thoroughly clean. The next step is to place the cleaned tender stems of chrysanthemums in an aseptic environment, where the experimental material must be disinfected with a 0.1% L mercury solution for 8 min. During disinfection, it is also necessary to shake slightly so that the material is completely disinfected, and then rinse it repeatedly with sterile water; after washing, blot the water dry with sterile absorbent paper [2]. The next step is to cut the tender stems of chrysanthemums into several small sections about 2~3cm long, each with 1~2 leaves, and inoculate them onto the culture medium immediately to prevent the small tender stem sections from losing water.
2 Rapid propagation
2.1 Starting culture
Begin culturing the tender stems of chrysanthemums. The culture medium is MS + 6-BA1.0mg/L + NAA0.2mg/L, pH5.8, culture temperature 25±1℃, light intensity 3000~40001x, photoperiod 8h/d. Place the tender stems of chrysanthemums in the culture medium for culture. Generally, after 2~3 weeks, the cut wounds of the tender stems can heal, and moreover, they can begin to differentiate tender stems; afterward, the tender stems grow into stems and leaves, and after one month of culture, the tender stems can grow to 3~5cm [3].
2.2 Subculture proliferation
The tender stems of test-tube plantlets begin to proliferate in the culture medium. When the test-tube plantlets have proliferated to a certain number, they need to be moved onto new culture medium. Subculture proliferation of chrysanthemums is carried out through stem segments, which requires cutting the tender stems of chrysanthemums into single-node stem segments each with one leaf, and implanting these stem segments into MS or MS + NAA0.2mg/L culture medium. After 3~4 weeks of culture, their axillary buds can grow into new small plantlets. This is the subculture proliferation of chrysanthemums, and to obtain more test-tube plantlets, it is necessary to repeat the culture according to the above method.
2.3 Rooting and hardening-off
Chrysanthemums have a very strong rooting ability. To make them root, it is necessary to observe the aseptic seedlings; when they grow to 8~10cm, cut a 3cm rootless tender stem from the test-tube plantlet and transfer it to 1/2MS + NAA0.2mg/L culture medium. After 7~10d, an 80% rooting rate can be achieved; after 12d, the rooting rate of the rootless tender stems can reach 90% or even 100% rooting. After 30~40d of culture, it can be found that each rootless tender stem in each test tube has grown about 4~5 relatively thick root systems, and the leaves are very dark green. At this time, hardening-off and transplanting can begin.
Chrysanthemums have very good planting significance: they can be used as ornamental plants, and can also be picked and dried for brewing tea. Moreover, their planting method is simple. The above is the rapid propagation method for chrysanthemums; do not miss it.
How to cultivate dahlia? A brief discussion of the propagation and cultivation management techniques for potted dahlia
Dahlia is a very beautiful flower with a long flowering period. If potted, it has very good ornamental value. Below are propagation and cultivation management techniques for potted dahlia; flower and plant lovers can take a look.
Dahlia propagation techniques
Propagation methods. Dahlia propagation has relatively high temperature requirements. To ensure effective propagation the following year, dahlia flower seeds should be scientifically stored at the end of October and kept in a warm and humid environment. At present, two methods are mainly used: bulb division propagation and division propagation. First, dahlia bulb division propagation is to plant the flower's bulbs or corms, tubers, etc. in the soil layer. After these corms or tubers grow for 1 year, small bulbs grow around them, and the small bulbs can then be dug out. Second, the division propagation method can be carried out in early spring. First take the mother plant out of the pot, then disinfect it, and place the dahlia in a shaded place for care.
Sowing and seedling raising. Sowing and seedling raising is an important part of dahlia propagation. When propagating dahlia, the propagation quantity must be well controlled, the amount of soil must be well managed, and the ground temperature must also be appropriately controlled to ensure the seed germination temperature is around 25℃, while seedling growth should be between 22~28℃. Second, scientific seed containers should be used to ensure ventilation in the seedling room, and nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers should be added according to different growth conditions to ensure appropriate topdressing during the flowering period.
Dahlia management strategies
For flowers planted on a large scale in a region, only by managing according to the growth characteristics of dahlia can problems arising during dahlia growth be solved. Dahlia likes fertilizer, so the fertilization interval can be appropriately shortened, usually applying fertilizer once every 15 days, mainly potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer. At present, when fertilizing dahlia, the fertilizer amount is often not well controlled, and large-scale fertilization fails to fully consider the regional environmental conditions, resulting in the problem of too much water making the plots prone to rotting.
The potting soil is based on garden soil and fine sand, and a drainage layer must also be made at the bottom of the pot. To improve the effectiveness of potted dahlia, a drainage layer should also be added. Usually, when the seedlings are 20cm tall, repot twice, and each time new leaf mold soil can be added.
The degree of dahlia's beauty also affects dahlia's ability to resist pests and diseases. When pruning dahlia, the principle of "remove the weak and keep the strong" should be adopted: cut off side buds and keep the main branch. Dahlia pruning should be done during the wilting season, and pruning can be carried out according to the standard of leaving a height of 20cm. During pruning, water should be appropriately controlled.
There are powdery mildew, viral disease, and brown spot disease. First, formulate a plan for preventing and controlling pests and diseases, effectively adopt targeted prevention and control measures, and comprehensively improve the effectiveness of pest and disease control. Second, focus on prevention, and carry out prevention and control according to methods that effectively prevent pathogens from overwintering and eliminate environments that breed pathogens. Third, according to changes in the local environment, effectively do the preparatory work for preventing local diseases.
Dahlia's flower posture is beautiful like a chrysanthemum, and it can be used for garden planting, potting, etc. It has very good ornamental value. Everyone can plant it according to the cultivation methods shared by the editor.
How to plant multi-headed colorful chrysanthemum? A brief discussion of the propagation and cultivation techniques of multi-headed colorful chrysanthemum
Multi-headed colorful chrysanthemum is a common cut flower material, with high ornamental value. When it blooms, it is a profusion of flowers with brilliant colors. It is highly favored by friends who like flowers and plants. Recently, many netizens have been asking the editor how to plant multi-headed colorful chrysanthemum. Below, the editor will explain its cultivation and management techniques in detail. Everyone hurry up and take a look.
1 Propagation methods of colorful chrysanthemum cut flowers in production
1.1 Cutting propagation method.
Autumn chrysanthemums and cold chrysanthemums generally use this cultivation method. The flowering period of autumn chrysanthemums is in mid-to-late September, so mid-to-late April is the most suitable time for cutting autumn chrysanthemums. The flowering period of cold chrysanthemums is from December to the following January, so cutting cold chrysanthemums can be chosen in June ~ July. The cutting propagation method is to select mother plants that grow robustly and are of pure strain, and cut 6~10 cm terminal buds or basal shoots from their tops. The cuttings should have 5~7 leaves; functional leaves should be retained, and the remaining leaves should be removed to reduce transpiration. The cut should be flat or horseshoe-shaped. After cutting, they should be placed immediately in clean water for 1 h to ensure they absorb enough water before cutting. Naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) or indolebutyric acid (IBA) at 100~200 ml/L can also be added to the water to promote rooting. The cutting bed can be selected from vermiculite, perlite, ordinary soil plus fine sand, or a 2:1 mixture of plant ash and loess to ensure the soil has moisture retention, aeration, and drainage. When cutting, a wooden stick or toothpick can be used to poke holes to reduce damage to the plant cut from the cutting bed. Plant spacing is 3~4 cm, and the cuttings are inserted 2~3 cm into the fine sand. The height and thickness of the seedlings should be consistent, and the cultivation surface should be flat. Cover with plastic film to prevent water evaporation. If raising seedlings in a greenhouse, open the shade net to ensure the temperature is 15℃~20℃. After 3d, check the seedling soil condition; after 7d, remove the bottom film for hardening-off; after 10d, prepare for planting. The temperature must not be too high or too low. The cutting propagation method can obtain a large number of chrysanthemum seedlings from the mother plant, reduce the cultivation cycle, and improve the survival rate of chrysanthemums. After the mother plant has been cut 3~4 times, the cutting quality will decline, so it should be eliminated in time and replaced with a new mother plant.
1.2 Tissue culture method.
The tissue culture method is to take tender branches and tender stems sprouting from the old roots of chrysanthemums of pure variety, remove the leaves and petioles together, rinse them clean in clean water, disinfect them, cut them into small segments, and inoculate them into a prepared culture medium for culture. The room temperature should be maintained at around 25℃, with sufficient light for 8 h. If light is insufficient, fluorescent lamps can be used to supplement light. After weeks of culture, seedlings can gradually grow, and rooting culture can be carried out at 30d. After rooting, they can be moved into sandy soil for normal cultivation.
1.3 Division method.
Summer chrysanthemums and autumn chrysanthemums generally use this cultivation method. Summer chrysanthemums bloom once each year in the 5th lunar month and the 9th lunar month, so division of summer chrysanthemums is often carried out from late September to late October. Autumn chrysanthemums are from November to the following March. When dividing, select mother plants that grow robustly and have no pests or diseases, and use scissors at the rhizome to divide them into several small plants. Each plant has 2~3 stems and should carry some roots, and then be planted in pots for culture.
2 Cultivation management of chrysanthemums in cut flower production
2.1 Plant management.
The plants of cut flower colorful chrysanthemums are tall and large, with thick and solid stems and a long growth period, with a height of 80~150 cm, so the phenomenon of lodging or breaking must be avoided. When chrysanthemums grow to about 30 cm, a net can be set up to prevent lodging. The mesh size can be about 25 cm, with an average of 3 branches per mesh, so that the chrysanthemum plants are evenly distributed in the cut flower net. As the growth height of chrysanthemums increases, the height of the cut flower net should be adjusted in time.
2.2 Fertilizer and water management.
In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer should also be applied during the growth stage of chrysanthemums. During the vegetative growth period, the amount of water can be appropriately increased according to the plant's growth condition to keep the soil moist. When watering, topdressing can be carried out, mainly with nitrogen fertilizer. Fertilization can be stopped during the leaf bud differentiation period, and then carried out when the flower buds grow. When fertilizing, be careful not to contaminate the leaves with fertilizer; if contaminated, rinse the leaves in time.
2.3 Flowering period regulation.
When cut flower chrysanthemums grow to 15~20 cm and have 6~7 leaves, pinch the growing tips. After side branches grow out, remove excess side branches in time, leaving only a small number of side branches to ensure nutrient supply and reduce unnecessary nutrient consumption. After the flower buds appear, retain the main flower bud and remove the small side flower buds, so that all nutrients are supplied to the main flower bud.
2.4 Light control.
Chrysanthemum is a typical short-day plant, so the flowering period of chrysanthemums can be extended and plant growth and development can be inhibited or promoted by controlling light and temperature. The differentiation of chrysanthemum flower buds is affected by many external factors, among which light plays a decisive role. Short-day conditions promote flowering, while long-day conditions inhibit flowering. Different varieties of chrysanthemums also have different requirements for light duration, generally 12~14 h.
2.5 Pest and disease control.
During cultivation, chrysanthemums also encounter various pests and diseases, especially in the high-temperature and humid season of early autumn, when large-scale pests and diseases are more likely to occur. Common diseases include black spot, powdery mildew, brown spot, root rot, etc. These diseases are all fungal diseases. The main causes of such diseases are excessive soil moisture, poor drainage, poor ventilation, and insufficient light. To prevent waterlogging caused by excessive water accumulation, ditches should be dug to ensure smooth drainage, increase oxygen in the soil layer, and reduce the occurrence and spread of diseases. If diseases occur, diseased leaves and diseased bodies should be removed in time and burned centrally or buried deeply, paying attention to field sanitation. Soil can be disinfected with a 1:8 formalin solution. Common pests include aphids, red spiders, inchworms, chrysanthemum longhorn beetles, white grubs, leaf miner larvae, etc., which can be controlled by manual capture and spraying. Some pests are phototactic, and this characteristic can be used to kill them.
Multi-headed colorful chrysanthemum is an artificially bred ornamental flower. Its flower posture is beautiful and it has very good ornamental value. It can be used as a cut flower, and can also be planted in courtyards or in pots. The above are its propagation and cultivation techniques. Everyone remember to save them.