How to grow cyclamen and poinsettia in winter? Detailed guide to cultivation and care techniques

Cyclamen and poinsettia are among the flowers commonly seen in our daily lives, and because cyclamen and poinsettia have very brilliant flower colors, they are much loved by flower enthusiasts. So today the editor will briefly explain the key points of winter cultivation techniques and care tips for cyclamen and poinsettia, hoping to be of some help to everyone. Friends who are interested can also try growing these two flowers.

1 Winter cultivation and care of cyclamen

Cyclamen is native to the Mediterranean coast, southern Europe, and western Asia. It likes a sunny, warm, and humid environment, and dislikes heat and waterlogging. Its most suitable growing temperature is 10-20 degrees. When the temperature exceeds 30 degrees, it easily drops its leaves and goes dormant; when the temperature is below 5 degrees, the corm is prone to frost damage. Therefore, in winter it needs to be grown in a greenhouse, and it should be planted in loose, fertile, well-drained soil.

1.1 Propagation methods

Seed sowing is the main method of propagation, and the corm division method can also be used. The best time for sowing is from early September to mid-October. Before sowing, the seeds need to be soaked in clean water for 24 hours for pregermination. At the same time, before sowing, the sowing soil and sowing pots also need to be disinfected. Generally, roots will form in 2 weeks, and 1 cotyledon can appear in 4-6 weeks.

1.2 Cultivation management

1.2.1 Seedling separation and transplanting: When cyclamen has grown 2-3 leaves, separate the seedlings; when it has 5-6 leaves, transplant and repot; in September, plant into the final pot. When transplanting, keep all the roots intact. After planting, water thoroughly and pay attention to shading.

1.2.2 Heat preservation and frost protection: From November to March of the following year, during the flowering period of cyclamen, potted cyclamen should be placed in front of a south-facing window or in a south-facing enclosed balcony, about 1 m from the front, in a place that receives light. The room temperature should be above 10°C. Apply a 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate foliar fertilizer once every 15 [days]. By February to March, it can bloom.

1.2.3 Fertilizer and water temperature management: Cyclamen seedlings grow relatively slowly. From March to June of the following year is the peak growth period. During this period, liquid fertilizer should be applied twice a month. When the surface soil is dry, water thoroughly. The growing temperature is best around 18°C. In the high-temperature season from July to August, it enters a dormant state. During this period, water should be controlled and fertilizer stopped, and when the temperature is high, it should be placed in a shaded place. If rot disease (gray mold) occurs, a 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000-fold solution can be used for spraying and drenching.

1.2.4 Removing spent flowers: From April to May, when the flowering period is ending, spent flowers should be removed early, and the plant should be placed outdoors in sunlight. Water once every 7 days with a 1% compound fertilizer solution to encourage new leaves to grow. Until September, the pot should be placed in a cool, ventilated place, keeping the potting soil slightly moist, and no fertilizer should be applied. If the leaves are found to be wrinkled and turning yellow, 1-2 g of carbofuran can be buried along the edge of the pot to eliminate root-knot nematodes.

1.2.5 Repotting or planting: In September, dormant corms begin to sprout. Old plants over 2 years old can have their potting soil changed; old plants should be planted with the soil ball intact. After planting, the pot surface should be higher in the center and lower around the edges. On the second day after planting, water thoroughly and place in a shaded place for care. After new shoots grow, light can be increased. By October, when it enters vigorous growth, it can be placed in sunlight for care. Once a week, apply a 1% compound fertilizer solution and spray once with a 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate foliar fertilizer. Before Frost's Descent, move it indoors. The indoor temperature should be kept at 10-18°C. It can bloom in November.

2 Winter cultivation and care of poinsettia

Poinsettia is a perennial evergreen small shrub flower in the Euphorbiaceae family. It blooms in December and is a rare fine plant for decorating rooms and courtyards in winter.

2.1 Placement

Poinsettia likes light and faces the sun, and fears shade and darkness. Therefore, it should be placed in a place with plenty of sunlight, and must never be placed in a dark, damp, unventilated, or poorly aerated place.

2.2 Fertilization

In winter, poinsettia should be fertilized at the roots once every 15-20 days. High-quality organic fertilizer and high-efficiency phosphorus and potassium fertilizer are best. Each time, for each pot, apply 40-50 g of composted decomposed peanut cake fertilizer or tea seed cake fertilizer, and 15-20 g of potassium dihydrogen phosphate or high-efficiency biological phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, mixed with 2-3 kg of clean water or composted decomposed and deodorized human and livestock manure water or biogas slurry, then pour it on. At the same time, every 10-15 days, spray the leaves once with a mixed solution of 1500-fold Shengnongsu chelated fertilizer, 800-fold Gaomeishi organic humic acid active liquid fertilizer specially for flowers, and 1000-fold EM stock solution, spraying continuously 3-5 times. This helps supplement nutrients through the leaves and promotes winter flowering.

2.3 Water supply

During the growth process, poinsettia requires sufficient water. Water the roots once every 2-3 days, 2-3 kg per pot each time. In dry winter weather, spray the leaves with clean water 2-3 times a day, once every 5-6 hours.

2.4 Spraying pesticides

Common winter pests and diseases of poinsettia include leaf spot disease, anthracnose, powdery mildew, southern blight, red spider mite, scale insects, aphids, rust mites, etc. Generally, in winter, spray the leaves once every 15-20 days with a mixed solution of 1000-fold Lorsban liquid and 800-fold thiophanate-methyl, or a mixed solution of 1000-fold Nongdile and 600-fold Ridomil, or a mixed solution of 1000-fold Anlubao and 600-fold Sandofan, spraying continuously 2-3 times for control.

Key points for winter care of courtyard flowers

Key points for winter care of courtyard flowers

(1) Winter climate characteristics. China is the country with the most prominent monsoon climate characteristics in the world. Most regions are affected by monsoons, so seasonal changes are very obvious. East China is located in two climatic zones, the warm temperate zone and the subtropical zone, with a large north-south latitude span (over 12 degrees), and temperature changes are obvious throughout the year. Spring, summer, autumn, and winter are relatively distinct. Here, summer is affected by a maritime climate, with southeasterly winds dominant and more rain. Winter is affected by cold air currents from Siberia, with northerly winds dominant, dry, and continuous cold waves. The average temperature of the coldest month of the year is below 0 degrees Celsius; in areas south of the Huai River it is above 0 degrees Celsius. Annual rainfall is around 1000 mm, and it is concentrated in summer. Winter rainfall is relatively low, with more rain in the south and less in the north.

The winter referred to here is the winter of East China, starting from late November each year and lasting to early February of the following year. This season is the coldest period of the year. And from late December each year to January of the following year is again the coldest period within winter. At this time, the lowest temperature reaches about -14 to -12 degrees Celsius. The agricultural proverb "In the first and second nine-day periods, do not stretch out your hands; in the third and fourth nine-day periods, walk on ice" refers to this period.

In areas such as Jiangsu, Anhui, and Shanghai, because the terrain is relatively low and flat, winter is very prone to cold wave invasions. For flower growers, this increases the difficulty of getting home-grown flowers to overwinter safely, especially warmth-loving flowers and foliage plants. Flowers native to tropical and subtropical regions are even more susceptible to frost damage when grown in winter. The winter care and management of indoor flowers is a issue of great concern to every family that loves and grows flowers.

(2) The impact of winter climate on flowers. Temperature is an important condition for flower cultivation and often plays a key role in the survival of various flowers. It can also be said that even if other conditions are suitable, if there is no suitable temperature, flowers cannot even survive. Some flowers do not have temperature problems in their place of origin or in warm seasons, but when moved elsewhere or when the weather turns cold, the temperature must be adjusted in a timely manner and cold protection measures must be taken. Why do some flowers have particularly strong cold resistance while others are very poor? Because when winter comes, cold-resistant flowers accumulate a large amount of soluble sugar in their cells, the concentration of body cell fluid increases, osmotic pressure rises, and the freezing point drops, so they can resist low-temperature invasion in cold winter. Tropical flowers are just the opposite. When the ambient temperature drops, their body cells cannot immediately accumulate a large amount of soluble sugar, so they are very easily frostbitten or even frozen to death. Different flowers have different temperature requirements in winter. To understand these differences, it is necessary to understand the temperature conditions of the places of origin of different flowers. Flower growth and development have their own patterns. Generally, low-temperature-tolerant flowers cannot endure high-temperature environments, while high-temperature-tolerant flowers are also not suited to low-temperature environments. Through long-term cultivation, people have mastered some ecological characteristics of common flowers and usually summarized them into 3 categories:

① High-temperature type: such as poinsettia, gloxinia, Brazilian wood, Aglaia odorata, croton, African violet, etc. These flowers are native to the tropics. Some only bloom under high-temperature conditions. The lowest temperature in their places of origin is not lower than 10 degrees Celsius, so in winter in East China, the minimum indoor temperature should not be lower than 12 degrees Celsius.

② Medium-temperature type, such as white orchid, jasmine, hibiscus, cyclamen, calla lily, Western azalea, etc. These flowers are all cultivated outdoors in courtyards in the Guangzhou area. The lowest temperature in the Guangzhou area in a year is around 1 degree, so in winter in East China, the minimum indoor temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees Celsius.

③ Low-temperature type: such as osmanthus, kumquat, plum, pomegranate, etc. These flowers are all cultivated in courtyards in central China and southern East China. The lowest winter temperatures in these areas are all around 0 degrees Celsius, so in winter in East China, the minimum indoor temperature should not be lower than 0 degrees Celsius.

(3) Overwintering management of home-grown flowers. In East China, in winter, for some potted flowers native to tropical and subtropical regions, it is very important to take necessary freeze-proofing and warming measures. For example, many families like to grow Aglaia odorata, clivia, Chloranthus, hibiscus, rubber tree, Brazilian wood, cyclamen, gloxinia, jasmine, etc., as well as succulent and juicy flowers. In late autumn, they should all be moved indoors or into warm sheds one after another. How can the safe overwintering of home-grown southern flowers be ensured? The following measures can be taken:

First, understand the characteristics of the flowers and place them by category. The overwintering care of potted flowers should be treated differently according to the growth characteristics of the flowers and their temperature requirements. In winter, the outside temperature is relatively low, and most flowers cultivated indoors are in a dormant or slow-growing semi-dormant state. For flowers that go dormant in the open field, such as peony, chrysanthemum, pomegranate, Chinese rose, crabapple, plum, etc., they can be placed on a balcony, in front of a ground-floor window, or in a cooler place indoors, and generally can overwinter naturally. If a cold wave hits, they can be covered with plastic film for insulation, and the film can be removed after the cold wave passes. For flowers in a semi-dormant state in winter, such as ornamental citrus, rhododendron, clivia, camellia, cyclamen, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, etc., generally keeping the room temperature above 5[°C] can also allow them to overwinter safely. For flowers that continue to grow in winter, such as cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, asparagus fern, etc., generally keeping the room temperature at 8-10 degrees Celsius allows natural overwintering, and if a cold wave hits, insulation measures should be taken. For a small number of flowers from the tropics and flowers that need to be cultivated in winter for holiday viewing, such as tropical orchids, poinsettia, pothos, Brazilian wood, Aglaia odorata, tuberous begonia, gloxinia, etc., they should overwinter at a room temperature above 15 degrees Celsius. In East China, most families generally do not have heating facilities. To allow home-grown tropical flowers to overwinter safely, indoor heating or other measures are needed to raise the room temperature.

Second, conduct regular inspections and water moderately. Because various flowers in winter have inconsistent requirements for temperature, moisture, and light, regular inspections are needed. Timely and moderate replenishment of water is one of the important guarantees for safe overwintering. Watering indoor flowers should also follow the potted flower watering principle of alternating dryness and moisture. In terms of watering time, grasp the principle of watering on sunny days and not on cloudy days, and watering at noon rather than in the morning or evening. The specific amount of water should be flexibly controlled according to the category of flower, the water requirement at its growth stage, the texture of the pot, etc. Generally, water once every 7-10 days. In addition, one should learn to water by observing the flowers. So-called observing the flowers means grasping the characteristics of the flowers and not applying the same rule to all. For moisture-loving flowers such as umbrella plant, spider plant, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera octophylla, etc., water more; for drought-tolerant flowers such as Christmas cactus, Brazilian wood, cycad, cactus types, etc., water less. For evergreen foliage flowers, spraying the leaf surface can be used as a way to water.

Third, insulate and protect against cold by category, and increase light. Temperature management during the overwintering period of potted flowers should be treated differently according to the growth state of the flowers and their different temperature requirements. If they are under the same temperature condition, it is inevitable that some flowers will adapt and grow well, while others will not grow well because they are not suited to it. If high-temperature flowers are placed in a low-temperature environment, frost damage will occur and they may even freeze to death. However, if some low-temperature-loving flowers are placed in a high-temperature environment, their growth the following year will be affected. This point is often overlooked. If low-temperature-loving flowers are kept in a high-temperature environment for a long time in winter, they will consume too many nutrients, which will affect their growth and flowering the next year. Therefore, when cultivating potted flowers indoors in winter, they must be treated differently according to their different temperature requirements. Families with the means can divide the flowers they grow into 3 categories: low-temperature, medium-temperature, and high-temperature flowers. Low-temperature flowers should be placed in a north-facing room, but need to be moved regularly to a sunny room to bask; medium-temperature flowers should be placed in a south-facing room or an enclosed balcony, and if a cold wave hits, appropriate insulation measures are still needed; high-temperature flowers not only need to be placed in a south-facing room, but also need supplemental heating, keeping the indoor temperature above 12 degrees Celsius.

① Winter cold protection for indoor potted flowers: Most potted flowers are not native locally, and are mainly tropical and subtropical evergreen flowers. Because they are not suited to the natural conditions of the place they have been moved to, they need to be moved indoors or into a greenhouse for care in winter. As far as East China is concerned, from north to south, the time of entering the greenhouse differs slightly: in the Huaibei area it is about mid-to-late October, in the Nanjing area it is mid-November, and they are gradually moved outdoors in mid-to-late April of the following year.

During the overwintering period of potted flowers, suitable environmental conditions for overwintering should be created according to the growth habits of the flowers and the different requirements of various flowers. This still involves factors such as temperature, humidity, light, and air.

The first issue is temperature. It should be treated differently according to the different temperature requirements of flowers and trees. In winter, the outside temperature is relatively low, and most flowers cultivated in cold rooms are in a dormant or slow-growing semi-dormant state. For flowers dormant in winter, such as Chinese rose, chrysanthemum, peony, hydrangea, etc., generally placing them in a cold room at 3-5°C allows safe overwintering. For flowers in a semi-dormant state in winter, such as ornamental citrus, rhododendron, gardenia, plum blossom, clivia, crinum lily, camellia, etc., although their temperature requirements are slightly higher, generally placing them in a cold-temperature room below 5°C also allows safe overwintering. Such temperature conditions can basically be met in areas south of the Huai River usually without heating. However, for flowers that can continue to grow in winter, such as begonia, cineraria, Aglaia odorata, asparagus fern, Christmas cactus, etc., they should generally be placed in a warm room at 8-10°C or above, which requires indoor heating or warming facilities. For a small number of flowers from the tropics and flowers that need to be cultivated in winter for holiday viewing, such as tropical orchids, poinsettia, cyclamen, tuberous begonia, Monstera deliciosa, etc., a temperature of 15-17°C or above should be provided. In areas south of the Huai River, there is generally no heating indoors in winter, so flowers must be placed in a room with special warming facilities or in a south-facing sunny cold room.

During the overwintering period, the level of room temperature has a relatively large impact on potted flowers. For example, warmth-loving flowers such as jasmine, poinsettia, Aglaia odorata, croton, etc., when placed in a cold environment with room temperature close to 0 degrees Celsius, will be on the verge of death before long; when placed in a relatively cold environment below 10 degrees Celsius, they will enter a semi-dormant state with stagnant growth and yellowing leaves and withered branches; when placed in a relatively warm environment around 15 degrees Celsius, they barely sprout and unfold leaves and grow slowly, but cannot form buds and bloom.

Once potted flowers are moved indoors, attention must also be paid to cold protection. The room where potted flowers are placed should have good heat preservation and cold insulation capacity, and flowers with the same warmth-loving habits should be placed in places with similar temperatures. For cold-resistant flowers in a dormant state, they can be placed in a corner of a room with a lower temperature to keep them dormant; for evergreen flowers that love warmth or continue to grow in winter, they should be placed as close as possible to a south-facing window, where sunlight is relatively abundant and the temperature is usually higher. Generally, non-cold-resistant evergreen woody flowers must not be placed near windows and doors that are frequently opened, to avoid cold wind invasion causing the plants to freeze, wither, and drop leaves, or even die. In the severe cold of the twelfth lunar month, paper strips or soft foam plastic strips should be used to seal door and window gaps to prevent wind, and at night door curtains and window curtains should be added to the room where potted flowers are placed, so that the indoor temperature is at least 3-4 degrees Celsius higher than outdoors. At ordinary times, closely monitor changes in indoor and outdoor temperatures to avoid temperature loss of control and causing undue damage to flowers. For flowers that truly have difficulty overwintering in a cold room, the following methods can be used:

Make flower insulation covers: For Aglaia odorata, white orchid, jasmine, etc., first use wire to tie an arched ring support along the pot rim, then cover the plant together with the pot with plastic film. If the weather is especially cold, double-layer film can be used to cover and protect the flowers. This method is simple and easy to carry out, with notable insulation effect, and can enhance the cold resistance of flowers. However, several small holes should be left in the plastic cover to facilitate ventilation and air exchange. In addition, the leaves of the flowers should not be close to the bag. If the room temperature is too low, the potted flowers still need to be moved to a warmer place to avoid frost damage.

Use nested pots for insulation: For some flowers, such as Aglaia odorata, clivia, Chloranthus, etc., an outer pot can be added outside or under the pot to maintain temperature. The specific method is: use a slightly larger flower pot, fill it with some insulation material or put soil in it, and embed the pot containing the flower in the large pot; or stack the potted flower on top of a pot with soil so that the potted flower is off the ground. This method can also provide insulation.

Homemade incubator method: The volume of the incubator can be determined by the size and number of flowers to be placed. Its front and two sides should preferably be made as movable doors that can be opened and closed. The box can be divided into upper and lower compartments, and the partition layer and shelf board should use wire mesh boards to facilitate heat rising. Two electric lamps should be installed at the bottom of the box. The wattage of the bulbs depends on the volume inside the box, and generally it is suitable to maintain the box temperature above 15°C. Because humidity drops after the temperature inside the box rises, a small cup of water should be placed between the two lamps to maintain humidity. In order for the flowers in the box to use natural light, the movable doors are best made with transparent glass, and if conditions permit, artificial lighting lamps can also be installed to increase the amount of light. This method has high expenses and high cost, and a simple small greenhouse made of plastic film can also be used instead.

In addition to the above insulation methods, indoor potted flowers should also be inspected frequently. If the plants are found to be deteriorating or showing symptoms of freezing, remedial measures should be taken as soon as possible. Some people move frozen potted flowers to the side of a stove for warmth, and some move them outdoors to bask in the sun. These practices are all wrong. The correct method is: first place them in a slightly warmer room and let them recover slowly, then gradually raise the temperature, but do not water at will. If watering is needed, it must be done at noon when the temperature is relatively high, and cold water must not be used directly to water the flowers.

Potted flowers need cold protection in winter, and also in spring, especially warmth-loving flowers such as Aglaia odorata, white orchid, jasmine, and poinsettia. Frost damage often does not occur in winter when the temperature is lowest, but mostly appears in early spring when the temperature begins to rise. The reason is: when flowers move from a dormant state into a state of growth and sprouting, due to their own physiological functions, they quickly lose their resistance and tolerance to low-temperature frost damage. In early spring, the weather is changeable. In addition to strong winds and dryness, temperature fluctuations are also unstable, hence the saying "Spring weather is like a child's face, changing three times a day." Especially when a cold wave passes, within 24 hours, the temperature can suddenly drop by 5-8 degrees Celsius or more. After most flowers have been cultivated indoors through the long winter, the plants are already very weak and have poor adaptability, but at this time people think spring has arrived and relax their vigilance against bad weather, moving flowers out too early. If late frost, a cold wave, or cold air invasion occurs at this time, even if the temperature is not very low, the flowers will suffer frost damage because they cannot adapt to changes in the external environment. Therefore, experienced flower growers all understand the principle that potted flowers should not be moved out in spring [too early].

Before potted flowers are moved outdoors, indoor ventilation should be strengthened. The doors and windows can first be opened during the day when the temperature is relatively high, and closed at night. Later, as the temperature rises, gradually extend the time the doors and windows are open, lower the indoor temperature, narrow the indoor-outdoor temperature difference, and gradually improve the adaptability of potted flowers to the outdoor environment. After a period of adaptive training, overwintered potted flowers can gradually reduce their care time indoors and be safely moved outdoors at the proper time. The specific time for moving potted flowers outdoors should be ordered according to the cold resistance of each type of flower. For example, osmanthus, Chinese rose, plum, etc., can be moved outdoors when the daily average temperature reaches about 10°C, while flowers such as Aglaia odorata, hibiscus, jasmine, etc., should be moved outdoors later. After the last cold wave has passed and the daily average temperature is stable at around 15 degrees Celsius, moving them outdoors is much safer.

② Winter cold protection for balcony flowers: Modern urban population density is increasing. Multi-story and high-rise buildings with complete functions provide people with a comfortable living environment. Adapting to local conditions and using balconies to grow flowers can give people aesthetic enjoyment. Moreover, balcony flowers along streets directly form a scenic line of the city, and are beneficial for reducing noise, preventing pollution, adding interest to life, and purifying and beautifying the city.

Here we mainly discuss some flower-growing knowledge for winter balcony flowers. Modern residential balconies have 2 types: one is enclosed at the time of construction, such as most high-rise buildings and a few multi-story buildings; the other is not enclosed, such as most multi-story buildings, which are still open balconies.

Cold protection for flowers on enclosed balconies: In winter, an enclosed balcony can play the role of a greenhouse and has a certain heat-preserving and warming effect. Some warmth-loving medium-temperature flowers cannot overwinter safely outdoors, but on an enclosed balcony they are basically not subject to frost damage. Therefore, plants such as asparagus fern, fuchsia, begonia, clivia, Christmas cactus, epiphyllum, rhododendron, cyclamen, spider plant, Michelia figo, cycad, and some foliage plants can all overwinter safely when placed on an enclosed balcony.

Cold protection for flowers on open balconies: Open balconies have fast air circulation, large evaporation, and low relative air humidity. In winter, because northerly winds are dominant and the wind force is also relatively strong, whether it is a north balcony or a south balcony, even flower varieties that can usually overwinter in the open field locally still need appropriate cold protection on an open balcony, especially in areas north of the Yangtze River. South balconies of multi-story buildings are mostly open. Because they are sheltered from the wind and face the sun, the frost damage or cold damage to flowers is far less prominent and severe than on north balconies. Therefore, in winter, flowers are generally placed on south balconies to overwinter. Some relatively cold-resistant flowers can usually pass through winter safely on a south balcony with only slight management, such as woody types like Chinese rose, nandina, Michelia figo, gardenia, dwarf peach, winter jasmine, wintersweet, crabapple, osmanthus, pomegranate, plum blossom, peony, kumquat, etc., and herbaceous and perennial types such as chrysanthemum, tuberose, tulip, orchid, canna, amaryllis, etc. But open balconies have strong wind and low air humidity, and the potting soil dries out extremely easily, so the flower varieties selected must be able to adapt to this environment. They must be drought-tolerant and low-temperature-tolerant, and close attention must be paid to changes in the dryness and moisture of the potting soil. Watering too frequently is not acceptable, and not watering at all is also not acceptable. Some varieties in a dormant period can be watered less; some evergreen varieties can be watered somewhat more frequently, and water can also be sprayed on the leaves regularly. Bulbous, tuberous, and perennial flowers are relatively drought-tolerant and can be watered less, such as amaryllis, tulip, canna, iris, Bletilla striata, tuberose, peony, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, dianthus, chrysanthemum, etc. When a cold wave hits, preventive measures are still needed. A simple temporary insulation frame can be built on the balcony, covered with plastic film on the outside. In areas north of the Yangtze River, double-layer plastic film can be used. A plastic film cover can also be used to cover the entire potted flower to achieve the effect of insulation and cold protection. In addition, some warmth-loving flowers can be temporarily moved indoors to prevent frost damage.

③ Winter cold protection for courtyard flowers: Some families with courtyards like to grow flowers and plants in the courtyard, but some varieties introduced from the south have poor cold resistance, and there is also the problem of winter cold protection.

Generally speaking, annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, perennial flowers, and some flower and tree types cultivated in the open field have relatively strong adaptability, such as chrysanthemum, petunia, stock, red-flowered oxalis, daylily, peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, Chinese rose, etc. However, some flowers such as Dahlia, canna, Michelia figo, Canna edulis, osmanthus, etc., although they have a certain cold-resisting ability, are not tolerant of low temperatures. In areas north of the Yangtze River, protection still needs to be strengthened in winter to ensure safe overwintering of flowers. The following methods are often used for cold protection of open-field flowers:

The first method, careful management to enhance the cold resistance of the flowers themselves: When autumn arrives and the weather gradually becomes cooler, flowers enter the late growth stage. At this time, nitrogen fertilizer application should be controlled, more phosphorus fertilizer and potassium fertilizer should be applied, and the amount of watering should be moderated, so that the plants grow compactly and enhance their resistance to cold. After entering the winter dormant period, one intertillage and fertilization can be carried out, and barnyard manure, manure, or cake fertilizer, etc., can be applied to increase the concentration of the soil solution and enhance the cold resistance of open-field flowers.

Some perennial flowers and overwintering annual herbaceous flowers, such as peony, canna, Dahlia, tulip, Edgeworthia chrysantha, etc., are prone to frost damage when overwintering naturally in areas north of the Huai River. If a cold wave comes, materials such as fallen leaves, straw, straw mats, or plastic film can be spread on the ground at the root zone of the flowers. This method is simple, effective, and very commonly used. It can be removed after the late frost.

The second method, banking soil and mounding soil for winter freeze protection: Some flowers, when winter comes, have all their aboveground parts dormant, with only the roots still growing slowly, such as peony, hydrangea, hibiscus mutabilis, etc. Soil can be banked around the root area of the flowers to form a small mound. When the plants begin to sprout in spring, the banked soil can be opened up.

The third method, wrapping with insulation materials for cold protection and overwintering: For some relatively large ornamental flowers and trees, because the tree body is large and cannot be pressed down and buried or covered, methods such as wrapping with grass, wrapping with paper, and covering with plastic film can be used for cold protection. For some flowers and trees with relatively strong cold resistance but fear of cold wind, or newly planted flowers and trees, the method of setting up wind barriers can be used, that is, using reed mats and other materials to build wind barriers on the west and north sides of the flowers and trees. This method is often used for cold protection when planting deodar cedar in areas north of the Huai River.

(4) Winter water management for flowers. For home flower growing, how to water flowers, whether to fertilize, and whether propagation can succeed are all issues of concern to home flower growers. Below is a brief introduction to the water management of potted flowers in winter.

① Watering flowers in winter: For home flower growers, watering is one of the most frequent and most important care tasks. Winter watering is likewise a key task related to whether flowers can overwinter safely. People often attribute flower death caused by improper watering to improper insulation, but in fact many household flowers die in winter because of too much water.

Home flower growers should know that winter is the dormant period for flowers. If the potting soil remains in a high-moisture state for a long time, it will inevitably cause root rot. Therefore, attention must be paid to watering time, watering amount, and watering method.

Watering time and water amount for flowers in winter: For field-grown flowers, because the root system is relatively developed, generally no watering is needed in winter. Water thoroughly after leaf fall and before the ground freezes, and then it can be left alone for the entire winter.

For potted flowers during the transition from autumn to winter, because sunlight weakens and the temperature gradually drops, growth slows down. At this time, leaf transpiration and soil surface evaporation decrease accordingly. In the north, most potted flowers are moved indoors to overwinter. Overall, the potting soil should mainly be on the dry side, maintaining about 30% humidity, that is, the potting soil being moist is sufficient. Special attention should be paid to the amount of watering from December to January of the following year, because this period is the colder time of winter in North China. If water is not strictly controlled, it will not only weaken the cold resistance of the flowers, but the flowers will also very easily die. If the potting soil truly needs watering, generally watering once every 1-2 weeks can meet the need. For a small number that need a lot of water, such as foliage plants, water once every 4-5 days, and never water too frequently. At ordinary times, spray water on the leaves more to reduce the number of times of watering the potting soil. Some home flower growers, as soon as they see the surface of the potting soil looking a bit dry, think the flower is short of water. In fact, in winter, this situation is not serious, because the surface of the potting soil may be a bit dry while the lower soil is still moist. Flowers need very little water in winter. As long as the potting soil has a certain humidity, the flowers will not die. For larger plants, because they themselves need more water and have stronger stress resistance, watering too much is not much of a problem. For small plants, especially succulent and juicy flowers, water must be strictly controlled, and watering must wait until the potting soil is completely dry. In short, watering flowers in winter should be on the dry side rather than wet, mainly spraying water on the leaves, and reducing watering of the potting soil as much as possible, so as to keep the potting soil in a dry state for a long time.

② Water temperature and methods for watering flowers in winter: The water temperature for watering flowers in winter is particular. Generally speaking, it is enough for it to be a few degrees Celsius higher than the soil temperature. The usual practice is to store water for watering flowers in advance in an open container, and use it when the water temperature, air temperature, and soil temperature differ little. Warm water can also be added. For evergreen potted flowers, warm water above 10 degrees Celsius and below 15 degrees Celsius can be sprayed on the leaves, which both achieves the purpose of watering and prevents the harm of dry freezing to flowers. If cold water is used to water flowers in a low-temperature environment, the low air temperature and low water temperature will aggravate the harm to potted flowers. Flowers do not need much water in winter, but that does not mean they do not need water. In principle, water only when dry, and when watering, water thoroughly at one time.

When watering in winter, different watering methods can be used according to different flowers:

Immersion pot method: Immerse the potted flower together with the pot in water, letting water slowly seep in through the hole at the bottom of the pot. When the surface soil looks moist, take the potted flower out. This method can make the soil absorb water fully and is relatively ideal. Moisture-loving flowers such as umbrella plant and calla lily need more water and can use this method. Other flowers should use the immersion pot method as little as possible in winter.

Sprinkling method: According to the actual needs of the flowers, supply water in a planned way, but when sprinkling, stop when seepage is seen at the bottom of the pot.

Fine-hole misting method: Use a fine-hole sprinkling can to turn water droplets into mist and spray it on the leaf surface of flowers, such as asparagus fern, spider plant, Western azalea, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, cineraria, clivia, etc. The misting method can both give relatively high humidity on the leaf surface and around the pot, and keep the leaf surface clean.

Selection of water quality for watering flowers in winter: For flower irrigation water, natural water such as river water and pond water is generally better. Tap water, because it contains bleaching powder, liquid chlorine, alum, etc., will alkalize and harden the potting soil after long-term use. It is best to store it first in a vat or other container for 2 days before use. Turbid water is not suitable for watering flowers, and water containing salt or alkali is also not suitable for watering flowers.

(5) Winter pests and diseases of flowers. There are generally fewer pests and diseases in winter, but some pests and diseases can also appear in rooms with heating or higher temperatures. This both affects the healthy growth of flowers and affects their ornamental value, so attention must be paid to the prevention and control of pests and diseases. Generally, households mainly rely on prevention, maintaining suitable temperature and humidity, good indoor ventilation, suitable soil dryness and moisture, disinfecting the soil when sowing, and selecting healthy seeds or not bringing pests and diseases when introducing flower seedlings. These are all effective measures to prevent pests and diseases.

Common diseases include powdery mildew, anthracnose, root rot, rust, root nodule disease, leaf spot disease, brown spot disease, and chlorosis, etc. Diseases may occur throughout the entire growth period of flowers, but they are most commonly seen in the high-temperature, rainy season from June to August. A small number of pests and diseases can also occur in winter.

Autumn care and management of potted flowers

Autumn is a time of seasonal transition, and the ambient temperature is gradually changing. For potted flowers, autumn is a very critical growing season. Of course, how to care for potted flowers in autumn is also something flower growers often study and worry about. In autumn, the climate changes from hot summer to cool and gradually colder. At this time, all things begin to wither, and potted flower care requires even more attention. Therefore, at this time, potted flower management should focus on the following management tasks. Below, the editor will comprehensively introduce the methods for autumn care and management of potted flowers.

1. Three timely tasks in autumn flower care

1. Light: Timely light. Some light-loving woody flowers that bloom in summer, such as jasmine, hibiscus, Murraya paniculata, etc., should still be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight. Potted flowers that bloom around Spring Festival, such as rhododendron, clivia, cyclamen, poinsettia, Christmas cactus, etc., should also be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight.

2. Pruning: Timely pruning. Apart from flowers that bloom in early spring, most flowers such as jasmine, crape myrtle, pomegranate, etc., can be pruned and shaped in autumn. This can reduce nutrient consumption in winter and promote more flowering of potted flowers the following year.

3. Propagation: Timely propagation. In autumn, the temperature is relatively low. Some biennial flowers, such as pansy, dianthus, cineraria, hollyhock, etc., are at a good time for sowing. After sowing, pay attention to spraying water and keep the soil moist. Some woody flowers are suitable for autumn cuttings, such as Chinese rose, geranium, jasmine, etc. The survival rate of autumn cuttings is relatively high. For perennial flowers that grow densely and need division, such as peony, Chinese peony, etc., divide and propagate them in time. For flowers that bloom around Spring Festival, such as hyacinth, tulip, amaryllis, etc., pot them up as soon as possible. Cao Qidong

2. How should potted flowers be managed in autumn

1. Appropriate water and fertilizer: After the beginning of autumn, water and fertilizer management should be treated differently according to the habits of different flowers. For autumn chrysanthemum, osmanthus, camellia, rhododendron, wintersweet, etc., which bloom once a year, apply 2-3 additional liquid fertilizers mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer in time; otherwise, not only will the flowers be fewer and smaller, but bud drop may also occur. For Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc., which bloom multiple times a year, relatively sufficient water and fertilizer should continue to be supplied to promote continuous flowering. For most flowers, in northern regions, after the Cold Dew solar term, fertilization should generally no longer be applied, to facilitate overwintering. As the temperature drops, except for flowers that bloom in autumn and winter or early spring and autumn-sown herbaceous flowers, which can continue to be watered normally according to the actual needs of each type of flower, for other flowers the frequency and amount of watering should be gradually reduced to avoid excessive water and fertilizer causing leggy growth, affecting flower bud differentiation, and suffering frost damage.

2. Pruning and shaping: After the beginning of autumn, when the temperature is around 20°C, most flowers easily sprout many tender branches. Apart from retaining some as needed, the rest should be cut off in time to reduce nutrient consumption. The retained tender branches should also be pinched in time. For chrysanthemum, Dahlia, Chinese rose, jasmine, etc., after buds appear in autumn and when the buds grow to a certain size, apart from retaining 1 well-growing large terminal bud, all other side buds should be removed.

3. Timely seed collection: The seeds of many flowers mature one after another around mid-autumn and need to be collected in time. After harvesting seeds of scarlet sage, cypress vine, morning glory, etc., remove impurities and dry them, then put them in cloth bags and store them in a low-temperature, ventilated place. For some seeds with thicker seed coats, such as peony, Chinese peony, magnolia, Michelia figo, etc., after collection it is best to bury the seeds well with wet sand and soil for stratified sand storage.

4. Sowing at the right time: Biennial or perennial herbaceous flowers cultivated as annual or biennial plants, such as snapdragon, dianthus, daisy, etc., open-field flowers, and greenhouse flowers such as cineraria, cyclamen, gloxinia, as well as flowers that easily lose germination ability after collection such as Gerbera, larkspur, primula types, begonia types, etc., are all suitable for autumn sowing.

5. Moving indoors at the right time: In northern regions, after the Cold Dew solar term, most flowers should be moved indoors one after another for overwintering according to their cold resistance, so as to avoid cold damage. The specific time for moving indoors varies by flower. For most flowers, when the weather first changes, do not rush to move them indoors. Because moving indoors too early affects nutrient accumulation and is unfavorable for growth and development the following year. Therefore, under the premise of not suffering cold damage, the time for moving indoors is better a little later.