How to grow a Tradescantia zebrina bonsai? A care guide for the blood-cooling, diuretic plant

Tradescantia zebrina is not only an excellent bonsai plant, it also has powerful medicinal value, able to "cool the blood and promote urination." Growing it can beautify the complexion and even treat illness. Below is an introduction to the functions of Tradescantia zebrina and a bonsai care guide. Take a look right away.

1. Health benefits

Tradescantia zebrina is sweet and cold in nature, slightly toxic, and has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, cooling the blood, and promoting urination. It has a certain auxiliary effect on treating pulmonary tuberculosis with coughing and blood-streaked sputum, sore and swollen throat, acute conjunctivitis, bacillary dysentery, nephritis edema, urinary tract infection, leukorrhea and other conditions.

2. Care guide

(1) Soil selection For potted Tradescantia zebrina, the growing medium can be a mix of leaf mold, garden soil and river sand.

(2) Light Tradescantia zebrina prefers a semi-shaded environment; light should not be too strong, and it must be protected from harsh sun. At the same time, it should not be kept in a shady place for long periods. It is best placed where there is ample diffused light.

(3) Temperature For potted Tradescantia zebrina, a room temperature of 10-25°C is most suitable for its growth, and the ambient temperature during overwintering should not fall below 5°C.

(4) Watering In daily watering, take care to maintain soil moisture, and mist the leaves frequently to ensure appropriate air humidity.

(5) Fertilizing Tradescantia zebrina does not have particularly high fertilizer requirements; applying ordinary fertilizer once every half month is enough to meet the plant's growth needs.

(6) Propagation Tradescantia zebrina is mainly propagated by cuttings. Select relatively sturdy, well-growing stems and leaves and cut them off; each cutting should retain at least one leaf node. Insert them into the soil, then keep them warm, and roots will form in about 20 days.

(7) Pruning As needed, the vines should be pinched back, pruned and adjusted appropriately so that they are well distributed and attractive in shape. If some of the plant's variegated leaves sometimes turn green, they should be removed promptly so that the leaves of the whole plant do not all turn green.

(8) Placement Tradescantia zebrina is small and exquisite, with branches that trail naturally, bright markings on the leaves, and beautiful, elegant leaf color. It is very suitable for beautifying bedrooms, studies, living rooms and other places. It can be placed on a flower stand or on top of a cabinet, or hung in front of a window to trail down naturally, giving an excellent ornamental effect.

The above is a care guide for the "blood-cooling, diuretic" Tradescantia zebrina bonsai. We hope it is helpful to interested friends.

How to grow Setcreasea pallida | How to grow Tradescantia zebrina, and its role in the home

NO.1 How to grow Tradescantia zebrina, and its role in the home

Using plants to decorate indoor air is wonderful, but not everyone can handle it with ease; matching them takes some skill. Because plants have different shapes, different decor styles require different plants. What style does Tradescantia zebrina match in home decor?

Because plants respire vigorously at night, taking in oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide, too many plants should not be placed in the bedroom; the bathroom, study, living room and kitchen use different decorating materials and have different pollutants, so the number of plants and their air-purifying functions should be chosen according to the environment. When placing Tradescantia zebrina, a certain number should be observed.

Tradescantia zebrina grows quickly, with branches and leaves trailing and hanging down, and its leaves are a dazzling mix of purple, green and silver. Grown in pots and placed on a tall stand or on top of a cabinet to let it hang down naturally, it forms a green curtain with a very good ornamental effect and a unique artistic mood. It is often used for overall arrangements in homes, courtyards and other places. Tradescantia zebrina can not only be used for garden beautification, balcony or indoor potted display, it also has the functions of clearing heat and detoxifying, cooling the blood and stopping bleeding, and promoting urination, so it can be used as medicine.

Plants more or less have the effect of freshening the air, and Tradescantia zebrina is no exception. Moreover, Tradescantia zebrina grows vigorously and is a herbaceous foliage plant very suitable for use where investment is low but ground-cover greening coverage is fast and effective. In places covered in large patches of Tradescantia zebrina, the air is also relatively fresher.

Tradescantia zebrina [Tradescantia zebrina] How to grow Tradescantia zebrina, and its role in the home

Tradescantia zebrina grows quickly, with branches and leaves trailing and hanging down, and its leaves are a dazzling mix of purple, green and silver. Grown in pots and placed on a tall stand or on top of a cabinet to let it hang down naturally, it forms a green curtain with a very good ornamental effect and a unique artistic mood. It is often used for overall arrangements in homes, courtyards and other places.

Plants more or less have the effect of freshening the air, and Tradescantia zebrina is no exception. Moreover, Tradescantia zebrina grows vigorously and is a herbaceous foliage plant very suitable for use where investment is low but ground-cover greening coverage is fast and effective. In places covered in large patches of Tradescantia zebrina, the air is also relatively fresher.

Tradescantia zebrina is a perennial herb of the Commelinaceae family, also known as variegated spiderwort, water bamboo grass, and purple-backed spiderwort. It has the functions of clearing heat and detoxifying, cooling the blood and stopping bleeding, and promoting urination. Its main effects include clearing heat and draining dampness, cooling the blood and detoxifying, treating edema, difficult urination, strangury, dysentery, leukorrhea, coughing blood, red swollen painful eyes, sore swollen throat, sores and abscesses, burns and scalds, and venomous snake bites.

Tradescantia zebrina [Tradescantia zebrina] How to grow Tradescantia zebrina, and its role in the home

Tradescantia zebrina is highly ornamental as a small potted plant. It grows quickly and can cover a full pot within 1 year, with branches and leaves trailing and hanging down, and leaves in a dazzling mix of purple, green and silver. Place it on a tall stand or on top of a cabinet to let it hang down naturally, or grow it in a hanging basket for display. It can also be placed above a windowsill so that it hangs down to form a green curtain. In courtyard cultivation it is often used for overall arrangements. The plant's variegated leaves can sometimes turn green; at this time they should be removed promptly so that the leaves of the whole plant do not all turn green. Tradescantia zebrina also has strong medicinal properties; it treats coughing blood. Take twice a day. For gonorrhea, take before meals, twice a day. It treats leukorrhea, chronic dysentery, and acute conjunctivitis.

Like all green plants, Tradescantia zebrina grows by absorbing sunlight and carbon dioxide for photosynthesis, so Tradescantia zebrina also has a very good air-purifying effect. Because it grows fast and has lush leaves, it only needs routine cultivation to grow into a large patch. Planted in one's own small yard, besides adding decoration, it also absorbs a large amount of carbon dioxide and toxic substances, making it naturally fresh and full of spring vitality. Looking out from inside, the green "curtain" not only blocks the glaring strong light but also forms a green barrier, keeping dust, PM2.5 and other particles in the air outside the door.

Tradescantia zebrina [Tradescantia zebrina] How to grow Tradescantia zebrina, and its role in the home

The cutting medium for Tradescantia zebrina is nutrient soil, river sand, peat soil or similar materials used for cuttings. The stem sections used for cuttings are called cuttings. Cut the stems into 6 cm lengths, each with more than three leaf nodes; the growing tip can also be used as a cutting. For the growing medium, a mix of 40% leaf mold, 40% garden soil and 20% river sand is suitable. During the growing period, keep the potting soil moist, and apply a dilute liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer once about every 15-20 days. In spring and autumn, it is best kept indoors near a south-facing window; in summer, it is best placed indoors in a well-ventilated spot with bright diffused light. If light is insufficient for a long time, the stems and leaves tend to grow leggy, the internodes become longer, and it blooms little or not at all. It requires relatively high air humidity; if the air is dry, the leaves often dry out and the leaf tips scorch. Therefore, during the growing season, mist the stems and leaves frequently to maintain air humidity. To keep the branches and leaves full, when the stems reach about 25 cm, pinch them back to encourage branching; otherwise the branches grow thin and long, affecting the ornamental effect.

The leaves of Tradescantia zebrina have two silvery-green shimmering stripes flanking the central green portion. The leaves have irregular pink, green, creamy-white and silvery-white stripes, the most beautiful but also the hardest to grow. To grow Tradescantia zebrina well, the issues to note are: light, temperature, watering, fertilizing, and propagation.

Tradescantia zebrina [Tradescantia zebrina] How to grow Tradescantia zebrina, and its role in the home

Tradescantia zebrina, also called hanging zebrina, variegated spiderwort, variegated bamboo vegetable, red lotus and so on. Commelinaceae, Tradescantia genus, Tradescantia zebrina. Native to Mexico. Tradescantia zebrina is a perennial herb. The stems are somewhat weak, green, hanging down, semi-succulent, branched, and root at the nodes. Oblong, spreading or hanging down, about 1 m long, hairless or sparsely hairy. Leaves sessile, elliptic-ovate to oblong, 3-6 cm long and 2 cm wide, apex shortly pointed, upper surface purple-green mixed with silvery-white, with purple stripes along the middle margin, lower surface purplish-red, the top and base of the sheath or the whole sheath sparsely covered with long hairs. Small white flowers are axillary. Flowers cluster within large and small terminal bract-like leaves. Sepals 3, fused into a cylindrical tube about 5 mm long; corolla tube white, slender, about 1 cm long, lobes 3, rose-colored, about 2.5 mm long, stamens 5, ovary 3-locular. Fruit is a capsule. Flowering period is irregular.

Tradescantia zebrina has weak, brittle stems and grows prostrate on the ground in a trailing manner. Common types include four-color Tradescantia zebrina: the leaf surface is dark green with red, pink and white stripes, and the leaf underside is purple. Variegated Tradescantia zebrina: the leaf surface is green with two distinct silvery-white stripes. Small Tradescantia zebrina: the leaves are very small and the plant is shorter than the original species. Purple Tradescantia zebrina: the leaf shape and flowers are basically the same as Tradescantia zebrina. The plant form of purple Tradescantia zebrina is slightly larger than that of four-color Tradescantia zebrina, and the leaf base is very hairy. The leaf surface is dark green and wine-red, with no white stripes

Extended: How to grow Tradescantia zebrina / Tradescantia zebrina benefits / Tradescantia zebrina effects

Extended: How to grow Tradescantia zebrina / Tradescantia zebrina benefits / Tradescantia zebrina effects

NO.2 Care methods for Setcreasea pallida (purple heart)

Species name: Setcreasea pallida. Aliases: purple heart, purple brocade grass.

Scientific name: Setcreaseapallidacv.Purple Family name: Commelinaceae

Genus name: Setcreasea Distribution: native to Mexico

Habits: Prefers warmth and humidity, not cold-tolerant, avoids harsh sun exposure, likes semi-shade. Has strong adaptability to drought and is suited to fertile, moist soil.

Setcreasea pallida is an annual or biennial herbaceous flowering plant, generally managed extensively, needing no pruning, tolerant of shade and moisture, and resistant to pollution; just apply a little dilute cake fertilizer water. Because its stems and leaves are dense, it readily roots at the stem nodes. Setcreasea pallida likes a humid climate environment and requires the relative air humidity of the growing environment to be 60-75%. The most suitable growth temperature is 18°C-30°C; it avoids cold and frost, and the overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10°C. When the winter temperature drops below 4°C it enters dormancy, and if the ambient temperature approaches 0°C it will die from frost damage.

> Key points for summer care:

1. Strengthen air convection so that the heat inside the plant can be released;

2. Place it in semi-shade, or give it 50% shade;

3. Mist it appropriately, 2-3 times a day.

> Key points for winter care:

1. Move it indoors to a bright place for care;

2. Outdoors, it can be wrapped in plastic film to overwinter, but every two days at the warmer midday hours the film should be opened to let it breathe;

> Light management:

Setcreasea pallida is afraid of direct strong light and needs to be kept in semi-shade, or given 70% shade. If kept indoors, place it in as bright a spot as possible, and every one or two months move it outdoors to a semi-shaded spot or keep it shaded for a month, so that it can accumulate nutrients and recover its vigor.

> Fertilizer and water management:

Setcreasea pallida has high fertilizer and water requirements, but it most fears careless fertilizing, concentrated fertilizer, and one-sided application of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium fertilizer. It requires following the fertilizing (watering) principle of "apply dilute fertilizer frequently, use small amounts but more often, and keep nutrition complete":

Spring, summer and autumn: These two seasons are its peak growing periods. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Hua Bao" -- "Hua Bao" -- clear water -- "Hua Bao" -- "Hua Bao" -- clear water (at the very least, ensure two "Hua Bao" applications per week). The interval is roughly: for outdoor care, 1-4 days, shorter during sunny or high-temperature periods, longer during rainy or low-temperature periods, or skip watering; for indoor care, 2-6 days, shorter during sunny or high-temperature periods, longer during rainy or low-temperature periods, or skip watering. Watering should be scheduled as much as possible in the morning when the temperature is lower. In summer, water in the early morning or evening when the temperature is low, and also mist the plant frequently.

Winter: During the winter dormant period, the main task is to control fertilizer and water. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Hua Bao" -- clear water -- clear water -- "Hua Bao" -- clear water -- clear water, with an interval of roughly 7-10 days, shorter during sunny or high-temperature periods, longer during rainy or low-temperature periods, or skip watering. Watering should be scheduled as much as possible at midday on sunny days when the temperature is higher.

NO.3 Habits and care methods of Pachyphytum 'Purple Delight'

The habits of Pachyphytum 'Purple Delight' are similar to other Pachyphytum succulents. It is suited to growing in a sunny, cool and dry environment, is drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of semi-shade, not cold-tolerant, avoids damp shade and hot, muggy conditions, and requires well-drained soil, with a mix of sandy soil and small gravel being suitable.

Pachyphytum 'Purple Delight' is a cultivated variety of the Pachyphytum genus. In full sun the leaves are closely arranged and take on a slight purple color; in weak light the leaf centers are light blue-green, the leaves become narrow and long, and the spacing between leaves becomes leggy and stretched. Pachyphytum 'Purple Delight' blooms in early summer and can be cross-pollinated.

Pachyphytum 'Purple Delight' has no obvious dormant period and can take full sun. In summer, provide ventilation and shade, water 3 to 4 times a month, giving a small amount of water around the edge of the pot to slowly get through midsummer, just keeping the root system from drying out from excessive dryness. In winter, when the temperature falls below 3°C, gradually reduce water; below 0°C keep the potting soil dry, and try to keep it no lower than minus 5°C. This way it can overwinter safely. In winter use as little water as possible; in early spring, water should be increased gradually, otherwise root rot may occur.

Pachyphytum 'Purple Delight' is a relatively easy variety to grow, with no obvious pests or diseases. When water is too plentiful, or when too much water is given during seasonal changes, the leaves drop off fairly easily when lightly touched. Use less water, or increase water gradually, and leaf drop can be avoided as much as possible; as long as the dropped leaves are plump, they can all be leaf-propagated and root very easily.

After beheading, Pachyphytum 'Purple Delight' readily grows side branches. If not beheaded and grown continuously, the plant's old stem grows very long, and only then does it begin to branch. For a more beautiful look, it should be beheaded when it has grown to a suitable size to stimulate side buds, so that the plant forms a cluster and looks beautiful.

The main propagation methods of Pachyphytum 'Purple Delight' are sowing and division, beheading, and leaf cuttings.

NO.4 How to grow Othonna capensis

Othonna capensis is a succulent of the Asteraceae family, Senecio genus, and some growers also call it purple string moon. Growing Othonna capensis is relatively simple; its habits are fairly robust, and once the root system is established it can drink a lot of water. It can be grown in full sun and also very much likes a well-ventilated environment.

Othonna capensis likes warmth and a sunny environment, prefers more water, avoids harsh sun exposure, and goes semi-dormant in high summer temperatures. In an open-air environment the leaves and branches turn purplish-red. For newly cut stems, use slightly moist soil; the cuttings can be covered with a thin layer of soil, or the stems can be fixed to the soil surface with paper clips. Keep the potting soil moist, ensure good ventilation, and do not let the temperature get too low. For watering, just mist the surface soil with a spray bottle, and do not move it around.

Care measures for the southern plant date palm

Part One: "Southern Plant Compilation"

Frangipani

Frangipani, its flowers really look like eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like egg white and yolk, and very cute indeed. Its branches are thick and succulent. The leaves are also large, and the flowers and leaves cluster at the tips of the branches. Frangipani blooms brilliantly in summer, giving a feeling of purity and elegant temperament, and is very suitable for careful appreciation. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk curves naturally, and its form is very beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and lawns. Frangipani likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, sunny and well-drained environment. It is robust by nature and can tolerate drought, but it fears cold and waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil, but is also alkali-resistant. For cultivation, deep, fertile, well-aerated, organic-rich acidic sandy loam is best. Propagation uses the cutting method. When planting frangipani, attention must also be paid to pest and disease control; for example, if small brown spots appear on the leaves or the leaves even turn dark black, that is frangipani leaf spot, and at this time you must take measures. Of course, there may be other diseases too, so frangipani needs your care and attention. In fact, besides white, frangipani also comes in red and yellow, and all can be used to extract essence for making high-grade cosmetics, soap and food additives, at a fairly high price, with great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried for making tea, commonly known as frangipani tea, which has the effect of treating dysentery due to heat and moistening the lungs to detoxify. The frangipani tree has a beautiful form and many branches, odd and varied in countless shapes; the leaves resemble loquat leaves, and after falling in winter they leave semicircular leaf scars on the branches, much like deer antlers adorned with beautiful spots. It can be called the top-choice small tree for tropical landscaping, courtyard arrangement and potted display. The bark is thin and grayish-green, rich in toxic white sap, which can be used for external application to treat scabies, redness and swelling and other conditions. The wood is white, light and soft, and can be used to make musical instruments, tableware or furniture. Frangipani flower meaning: nurturing hope, resurrection, rebirth, as simple and ordinary as life, so it can always be so close to people, without distance.

Yulan magnolia

Yulan magnolia is a tall deciduous tree, with dark gray, rough, cracked bark; the branchlets are slightly stout and grayish-brown; the winter buds and flower stalks are densely covered with pale grayish-yellow long silky hairs. The leaves are papery, obovate, broadly obovate or obovate-elliptic, and the leaves of vigorous shoots at the base are elliptic. The flowers of Yulan magnolia look very much like lotus flowers; when in full bloom, the petals spread in all directions, making the courtyard a mass of white, dazzlingly bright, with very high ornamental value; together with wave after wave of delicate fragrance that refreshes the heart, it is truly an ideal flower type for beautifying a courtyard. Yulan magnolia likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter in the open ground. It loves dryness and avoids low humidity; planting sites with waterlogging easily cause root rot. It likes fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Yulan magnolia has strong resistance to harmful gases. For example, if planted in a factory polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine, it has a certain resistance and ability to absorb sulfur. When artificially fumigated with sulfur dioxide, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 g of sulfur. Therefore, Yulan magnolia is a very good pollution-resistant greening tree species for areas with atmospheric pollution. Yulan magnolia likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant, but it is not tolerant of strong light or west-facing sun. Too strong light or west-facing sun easily burns the tree. Yulan magnolia likes fertilizer; besides applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year thereafter. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plant grow vigorously, with lush, thick green leaves, not only producing many buds but also large flowers, a long flowering period and rich fragrance. Yulan magnolia is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance; its main diseases are anthracnose, chlorosis and leaf sunscald. Besides ornamental value, Yulan magnolia also has medicinal and edible value. Yulan magnolia flowers contain volatile oil, mainly citral, clove oil acid and others, and also contain magnoflorine, alkaloids, yulan lactone, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A and other components, with a certain medicinal value. Yulan magnolia flowers are pungent and warm in nature, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, opening the orifices, and freeing the lungs and clearing the nose. They can be used for headache, blood-stasis-type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis and other conditions. Modern pharmacological research shows that Yulan magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.

Yulan magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks, or brewed as tea. The flower meaning of Yulan magnolia represents gratitude. Yulan magnolia often produces large white flowers amid abundant greenery, and with its fragrant scent it gives people an indescribable temperament, truly fresh and lovely. Because the tree is tall and the flowers are borne relatively high, swaying in the wind and full of spirit, like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, it is very lovely.

Maranta

Maranta is a herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers. The leaves are solitary, relatively large, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with pinnate veins arranged in two rows, and entire margins. Maranta is a fairly good ground-cover plant with diverse colors and is a very good foliage plant. Maranta is a tropical plant that likes a warm, humid and brightly lit environment. It is not cold-tolerant, nor drought-tolerant, and fears harsh sun exposure; direct sunlight will scorch the leaves, causing localized scorching at the leaf edges, stopping new leaf growth, and yellowing leaf color. Therefore, shading must be attended to during cultivation. Maranta is relatively sensitive to water; during the growing period it should be watered thoroughly to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not become waterlogged, otherwise it will lead to root rot and even plant death. Maranta is somewhat "delicate." It requires enough careful attention 365 days a year; if the environment fluctuates greatly for a few days, it will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of Maranta seedling traders and growers. Plants of the Marantaceae family do not have many pests and diseases, mainly scale insects, whiteflies and so on. Of course, it has other values too, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Maranta powder is almost entirely starch, contains no vitamins, and has a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickener for soups, sauces, puddings and desserts. Added to water and boiled, it becomes a transparent, odorless, tasty paste. Maranta powder is fine-textured and, compared with other starches, can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter times, and is easy to digest, especially suitable for custards and other egg products that must not be overcooked, and also suitable for making light, low-salt and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops cough, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat cough due to lung heat and painful difficult urination due to damp-heat in the bladder

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The bark is dark gray or light grayish-brown, with many branches. The young branches are reddish-brown and densely covered with stellate hairs. The leaves are leathery and alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2-5 cm long, apex shortly pointed, base rounded and oblique, asymmetrical, both surfaces with stellate hairs, entire margins, dark red. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant. It likes warmth and is cold-tolerant. It has strong sprouting and branching ability and is tolerant of pruning. It tolerates poor soil, but is suited to growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has luxuriant branches and leaves and a graceful posture, tolerates pruning and wiring, and can be used for hedges or for making stump bonsai. When in bloom, the whole tree is covered with red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, and its new leaves are bright red. Different strains differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also varies. In garden applications, the main considerations are the two factors of leaf color and leaf size, bringing about leaf-color contrast to form color contrast, and the flowering periods can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometer moths, yellow noctuid moths, and other noctuid moths, large and small cutworms and scarab beetles, etc. Common diseases of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum: anthracnose, damping-off, and mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the lesions appear

as black round spots, or nearly round, causing early leaf fall. It is serious in the July-August rainy season. The pathogen is a species of actinomycete fungus. The fungus overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the primary infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, it must be treated promptly.

Ornamental peach

Ornamental peach is a variety of peach, a tree 3-8 m tall; the crown is broad and spreading; the bark is dark reddish-brown, rough and scaly when old; the branchlets are slender, hairless, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with numerous small lenticels; the winter buds are conical, blunt at the tip, covered with short pubescence, often clustered 2-3 together, with a leaf bud in the middle and flower buds on the sides. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight and is drought-tolerant, but not tolerant of damp environments. It likes a warm climate and has good cold tolerance, able to overwinter safely in a natural environment at minus 25°C. It requires fertile, well-drained soil. It does not like waterlogging; if planted in a waterlogged, low-lying place, seedlings easily die. Garden value: ornamental peach has large, brightly colored flowers, beautiful when in bloom, with an ornamental period of as long as 15 days. In landscaping it is widely used along lake shores, streams, both sides of roads and in parks, etc. In small greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, it is also used for potted display, and is also often used for cut flowers and making bonsai. There is also the common weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has a wide range of landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects, showing particularly good results in the very year of planting. It can be planted in rows, in patches, or singly, showing particularly good greening effects in the very year. Ornamental peach is one of the commonly used colored nursery stock in landscaping, and is usually used together with nursery stock such as purple-leaf plum and purple-leaf sand cherry. Flowering shrubs are combined in plantings to create a scene of a hundred flowers blooming together. Besides ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted on the peach trunk, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive and so on. It is a kind of polysaccharide substance; hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid and so on. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood stasis, harmonizing the blood, and boosting qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases are: white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis, and leaf curl. The main pests are aphids, red spider mites, scale insects, red-necked longhorn beetles and so on.

Artificial plant communities

1. Satsuki azalea + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-marginatus' + thornless Chinese holly ball

These four plants have strong adaptability and are relatively widely planted in Fuzhou. Three plants with different leaf colors are planted linearly, giving rich leaf color, and together with large-specimen thornless Chinese holly balls, they form a neat, full and clearly layered roadside greening color band effect.

2. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Photinia x fraseri ball + Michelia figo + Japanese maple

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability, and both its leaf color and flower color are very beautiful. The old leaves of the Photinia x fraseri ball are green, accented with red new leaves, setting each other off and extremely beautiful. The combination of the four plants is richly layered and forms a landscape road with longitudinal rhythm and spatial layers, and a strong sense of guidance.

3. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fatsia japonica + Canary Island date palm + Frangipani

These plants are combined mainly for green, with leaves both small (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum) and large (Fatsia japonica, frangipani), while the Canary Island date palm adds a touch of tropical flavor. The layers are rich, with the effect of shrinking space and bringing people closer.

4. Moso bamboo + Iris

Moso bamboo is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou. It is a running bamboo, with spacing between the culms. Iris has a graceful posture and colorful, beautiful flowers. The two combined together have great charm.

5. Small-leaf gardenia + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Aucuba japonica + Osmanthus

Small-leaf gardenia has leaves like a sparrow's tongue and a low plant form, and can be used as the lowest-layer plant. Aucuba japonica has yellow spots in its leaf color and is a fairly good foliage plant, while the osmanthus tree has fragrant flowers that refresh the heart. The combination has spacing and density, variation in leaf color, plus floral fragrance.

6. Azalea + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fagraea ceilania + Canna

Azalea has brilliant flowers, and with Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and Fagraea ceilania as a backdrop it is even more striking. Canna has large leaves, shrinking the space and making people feel close.

7. Ground-cover lawn + marigold + Photinia x fraseri + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum ball + orange osmanthus

With green ground cover as the base, the bright yellow flowers of marigold are extremely beautiful; behind the marigold, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and red Photinia serve as a backdrop, and the orange osmanthus has a spreading tree form. The several plants set each other off, with rich variation.

8. Ophiopogon + guava tree

Both Ophiopogon and guava trees adapt very well in Fuzhou and grow normally. Ophiopogon has fine, soft leaves and is very suitable as ground cover. The guava tree has smooth yellow bark, a graceful posture, and relatively large leaves with pleasing spacing and density, making it very suitable for open woodland paths.

9. Lawn + Agave americana 'Marginata' + pruned-shaped banyan + yellow-flowered double-podded sophora

With green lawn as the base, the agave has thick, large leaves in alternating silvery-yellow and green, and combined with the pruned-shaped banyan it is very harmonious, while the yellow-flowered double-podded sophora has a beautiful posture and brilliant flower color. The combination of these plants is richly layered, with color changes that are nevertheless harmonious.

10. Liriope + Rhapis excelsa + Areca palm + papaya tree

This plant arrangement is suitable for one side of a small building. Liriope has fine, soft leaf shapes, while Rhapis excelsa and areca palm have thicker, larger leaves, and papaya has large palmate leaves, with fruit borne on the trunk, and a very graceful posture.

11. Acalypha wilkesiana + Duranta erecta + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

As a carpet-bedding plant combination, Acalypha wilkesiana has brilliant leaf color and serves as the edge, Duranta erecta has yellow-green leaf color, and Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has dark purple leaf color. The three plants combined as a carpet bed are extremely attractive.

Part Two: "Maintenance Plan 4"

Landscaping maintenance and management plan

Maintenance and management are very important in landscaping. It is long-term, repetitive work with relatively comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and animals, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, grass and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, and planting of flowerbed flowers. The completion of a green space does not mean the completion of the landscape. People often say "three parts planting, seven parts management." Only with high-quality, high-level maintenance and management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.

Current characteristics of the park's plants:

1. The green area is about 2,454,19 million sq m, with a high greening coverage rate and large numbers of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned shaped shrubs. The early growth has gradually taken shape. After careful investigation, the plant planting characteristics can be roughly divided into two areas according to the original master plan:

1) Plaza area: The plant planting style in this area is relatively open. The plaza is mainly planted with rows of ginkgo, zhennan and large trees,

appropriately combined with low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.

2) Factory area: In this area, the plant species are mixed in complex combinations, with large and small trees, shrubs and ground-cover plants interplanted.

At the entrance, relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, jacaranda, small-leaf banyan stump,

top-grade osmanthus, etc.) dominate. Whether the office-area courtyard can still maintain its elegant and refined, spacious and grand

scenery, and whether the hotel villa-area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, soft and graceful, leisurely and relaxed atmosphere,

all depends on subsequent maintenance and management.

2. From the greening conditions in the vertical area, we can find the following problems: 1) The shaped shrubs are not growing well and their shapes are monotonous; 2) The flowering shrubs are in poor condition, and their blooming (including how much they bloom, flower size, color, and reblooming) is unsatisfactory; 3) The lawn has many weeds, and in some areas the grass Gramineae weeds show a tendency to run rampant; 4) Pests and diseases are present.

I. We plan to take the following rectification measures:

1. Promote three-dimensional gardening and carry out varied shaping of hedges and shrubs. For the flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to encourage their growth and then shape them according to their form, which depends on the specific plant's growth vigor and plant shape; the hedges in local areas are highly regular, and a neat, uniform strip shape undoubtedly makes a garden that should be free and relaxed appear mechanical and rigid. We can likewise try pruning them into wave shapes to match the relaxed and casual landscaping of the residential area, enliven the atmosphere of the whole garden, and also create a more flowing living environment.

2. Immediately begin pest and disease control. For plants showing signs of pests and diseases, immediately carry out large-scale chemical control.

3、

4、

5. For lawn weeds, apply chemicals and increase the amount of manual weeding. For different plants, implement different maintenance and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilizer; different plants and different seasons all have different fertilization methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labeling. We classify and count all the plants, then make green labels indicating their

family and genus, species, and growth habits, and label all the plants in the area. In this way we can

enrich the staff's general knowledge of plants, also add to the cultural atmosphere of the park, and with eye-catching labeling

bring more attention to the greening.

6. Greening maintenance is not a matter of a single day. While doing the rectification work well, we will also

adopt different maintenance and management measures for different plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month

(detailed rules attached below), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to its fullest, and

likewise ask the client to offer more suggestions so that our work gradually becomes more perfect and complete.

7. Maintenance responsibilities

Within the contracted maintenance period, our company, in accordance with garden greening maintenance operating procedures and garden greening maintenance quality standards, organizes reasonably and maintains carefully, and sends professional horticulturists to organize, guide and arrange the management and protection work, and flexibly assigns no fewer than experienced workers according to the weather in each season and plant growth conditions, to complete the maintenance and management tasks with quality and quantity guaranteed.

VI. Maintenance content

1. Management procedure: including watering, opening basins and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud removal, pest and disease control, straightening, replanting (seedling costs billed separately), and the whole set of processes. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

2. Management tools:

A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, grass shovels, lawn mowers

B. Sprayers, buckets, dump carts, bamboo baskets

C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders

D. Fuel, repair costs

3. Maintenance content:

A. Trees: apply organic fertilizer once a year, 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per tree, topdress once, 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, using hole application, spraying, water-fertilizer application, etc., then cover with soil and water thoroughly, with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm; promptly control pests and diseases, maintain the trees' natural growth state without shaping or pruning, promptly cut off yellow branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches, shaded leggy branches, and drooping branches that obstruct vehicle passage, and promptly clean up the pruned material. Remove weeds around the tree roots once a week to ensure no weeds.

B. Shrubs, hedges, bagged seedlings: fertilize once each quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 m2, using broadcast application and water-fertilizer application, etc.; water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm; promptly control pests and diseases; for those pruned into round, square or conical shapes, do minor pruning once a week and major pruning once a month, with smooth and attractive cut surfaces; promptly remove pruned material, promptly cut off dead branches and pest- and disease-damaged branches, promptly replant old, diseased and dead plants, and remove weeds once a week.

C. Herbaceous plants: fertilize once each quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 m2, using broadcast application and water-fertilizer application, etc.; water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm; promptly control pests and diseases; cut off spent flowers once a week, remove weeds once a week, and promptly cut off dead branches and yellow branches.

D. Taiwan grass: fertilize once each quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 m2, with even fertilization and thorough watering, with water penetration depth of more than 5 cm; promptly control pests and diseases, promptly replant wilted and dead missing parts, with coverage rate above 98%, and prune 1-2 times a month.

(II) Specific arrangement of a year's garden maintenance work:

January: the month with the lowest temperatures of the year, when open-ground trees are in a dormant state.

1. Winter pruning: fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches, and branches that interfere with overhead lines and buildings on large and small trees.

2. Street tree inspection: promptly inspect the tying and staking of street trees, and immediately rectify any looseness of ties, wire cutting into bark, loose stakes, and similar situations when found.

3. Pest control: winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under the trees, dig out and collect the pupae and cocoons of slug moths and burn them in a concentrated way. In mid-January, scale insects begin to be active, but at this time they move slowly, and we can adopt the method of scraping off the larvae on the trunks. Controlling pests in winter often achieves twice the result with half the effort.

4. Green space maintenance: in green spaces, flower beds and other places, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be promptly weeded and edged; in green spaces, pay attention to antifreeze watering.

February: temperatures rise somewhat compared with last month, and trees are still in a dormant state.

1. Maintenance is basically the same as January.

2. Pruning: continue pruning dead branches and diseased branches of large and small trees. Before the end of the month, finish pruning all kinds of trees.

3. Pest control: continue to focus on controlling slug moths and scale insects.

March: temperatures continue to rise; after mid-month, trees begin to sprout, and in late month some trees (such as camellias) bloom.

1. Tree planting: spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, do planning and design well, dig (hollow out) the tree pits in advance, and ensure digging, transporting, planting and watering are done in sequence. When planting shrubs, also ensure digging, transporting and planting are done in sequence, and water thoroughly to increase the survival rate of the seedlings.

2. Spring irrigation: because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, to prevent spring drought, promptly water green spaces and other areas.

3. Fertilization: after the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Pest and disease control: this month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some seedlings have developed sooty mold, and the box tree leaf roller (Cydalima perspectalis) has also appeared (use pesticides such as fenitrothion sprays for control). To control slug moths, the method of digging out pupae can continue to be used.

April: temperatures continue to rise, and trees all sprout, bloom or unfold leaves and begin to enter a period of vigorous growth.

1. Continue planting trees: in early April, seize the time to plant trees that sprout late; shrubs that died in winter (azaleas, Chinese fringeflower, etc.) should be promptly pulled out and replanted, and newly planted trees should be watered thoroughly.

2. Irrigation: continue to promptly water the maintained green spaces.

3. Fertilization: for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and topdress with quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

4. Pruning: cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring; evergreen hedges can be pruned.

5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molting, scale insects successively move into bark cracks, tree holes, trunk bases, wall corners and other places, secrete white waxy thin cocoons and pupate. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom and then buried deeply in a concentrated way or soaked. Or use methods such as spraying pesticides like fenitrothion. (2) Longhorn beetles begin to be active; a grafting knife or self-made steel wire can be used to remove the larvae, but the wound should be as small as possible. (3) Control work for other pests and diseases.

6. Maintenance within green spaces: pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green spaces. Lawns should also be weeded and edged.

May: temperatures rise sharply, and trees grow rapidly.

1. Watering: during the peak leaf-unfolding period, trees have a very high water demand and should be watered in good time.

2. Pruning: prune spent flowers. Carry out the first bud-removal pruning of street trees.

3. Pest and disease control: continue to focus on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of slug moths hatches, but has not yet reached a harmful level; make corresponding measures according to the actual situation in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects, aphids, etc. has also entered its peak period (on crape myrtle, pittosporum, oleander, etc.). In mid- and late May, spray 10-20 times rosin mixture and 50% parathion emulsion at 1500-2000 times dilution to control diseases and kill pests. (Other pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao may be used.)

June: high temperatures

1. Watering: plants have a high water demand, so water promptly and do not "rely on the sky for a living."

2. Fertilization: combine loosening the soil and weeding, fertilizing, and watering to achieve the best effect.

3. Pruning: continue bud removal and shoot removal on street trees. Carry out pruning on hedges, ball-shaped plants and some flowering shrubs. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Drainage work: in heavy rain weather, pay attention to drainage in low-lying areas.

5. Pest and disease control: in mid- and late June, slug moths enter the peak hatching period, and measures should be taken promptly; at present, spraying 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500-800 times dilution is basically used. (Or spray compound BT emulsion.) Continue manual capture of longhorn beetles.

6. Do a good job of inspecting trees before flood and typhoon prevention, and straighten, reinforce and re-tie loose and leaning trees.

July: the highest temperatures, with strong winds and heavy rain after mid-month.

1. Transplanting evergreen trees: during the rainy season, with sufficient moisture, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes and water promptly once high temperatures occur.

2. Drainage of waterlogging: drain promptly after heavy rain.

3. Topdressing: before rain, apply quick-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen fertilizer dry.

4. Street trees: carry out typhoon-prevention bud-removal pruning, prune all branches that conflict with power lines, and inspect tree stakes one by one, immediately straightening and tying tightly any that are loose or unstable. Prepare in advance in terms of labor organization, materials, tools and equipment, and send people to inspect at any time, handling dangers promptly when found.

5. Pest and disease control: continue to control longhorn beetles and slug moths. To control longhorn beetles, inject 50% fenitrothion at 1:50 dilution (or fruit tree treasure, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the opening, which can also achieve a very good effect. Camphor tree nest borers should be promptly pruned out, and the pest nests destroyed to avoid further harm.

August: still the rainy season

1. Drainage of waterlogging: after heavy rain, promptly drain low-lying waterlogged areas.

2. Typhoon prevention work for street trees: continue doing a good job of typhoon prevention for street trees.

3. Pruning: in addition to general summer pruning of trees, carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

4. Cultivation and weeding: weeds also grow vigorously, so weed promptly, and fertilizing can be combined with weeding.

5. Pest and disease control: focus on catching longhorn beetles, and pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Aphid damage and camphor tree nest borers should be controlled promptly. In humid weather, pay attention to powdery mildew and rot diseases, and take measures promptly. September: temperatures decline somewhat; do related work well for National Day.

1. Pruning: in preparation for city appearance work, remove buds below the third fork of street trees. Shape-prune hedges. Weed in green spaces, edge lawns, promptly remove dead trees, and ensure trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and tidy.

2. Fertilization: for some trees with weak growth and insufficiently plump branches, topdress with some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

3. Pest and disease control: shot hole disease (on cherry blossoms, peaches, plums, etc.) reaches its peak incidence; use 500% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to turn to the roots to cause damage; pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also promptly control carpenter moths on poplars and willows. Do a good job of controlling other pests and diseases.

4. Before the holiday, do a good job of inspecting all kinds of greening facilities.

October: temperatures drop; in late October, early winter begins, trees begin to shed leaves, and successively enter the dormant period.

1. Prepare well for autumn tree planting; in late month, once cold-tolerant trees shed their leaves, planting can begin.

2. Green space maintenance: promptly remove dead trees and water promptly. Weed and edge green spaces and lawns well. Fertilize flowering plants with poor growth.

3. Pest and disease control: continue catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling camphor tree nest borers. November: the soil begins to freeze at night and thaw during the day, entering deep winter.

1. Tree planting: continue planting cold-tolerant plants, completing before the soil freezes.

2. Turning the soil: turn the soil in green spaces to expose pests preparing to overwinter.

3. Watering: water dry and compacted soil, completing before the freeze.

4. Pest and disease control: various pests prepare to overwinter in late month, and the control task is relatively light.

December: low temperatures; begin winter maintenance work.

1. Winter pruning: prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.

2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.

3. Prepare well for next year's adjustment work: after deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and draw the positions to be adjusted.

VII. Green space maintenance quality objectives

1 Greening maintenance technical measures are complete and management is proper, achieving no exposed loess.

2 Garden plants

2.1 Growth is normal. Various plants in newly built green spaces reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are injured or die due to poor management, the replanted seedlings survive within one year.

2.2 Garden trees have basically complete crowns, evenly distributed and appropriately numerous primary and secondary branches, reasonable pruning, an untangled inner canopy, and ventilation and light transmission. Flowering shrubs bloom promptly and normally, and are pruned promptly after flowering. Hedges and color blocks have normal branches and leaves and are neat and uniform. Street trees have no missing plants, and there are no dead trees in green spaces.

2.3 Deciduous trees have normal new shoot growth and normal leaf size and color. Under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves, and leaves with insect excreta or insect webs must not exceed 5%, and the preservation rate of normal leaves is above 90%. Coni-

Part Three: "Annual Greening Maintenance Plan"

Annual Greening Maintenance Plan

January

1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning of various deciduous trees, cutting off dead branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches, and lower side branches, to ensure tree development tends to be reasonable, improve branch form, and reduce the breeding of pests and diseases.

2. Appropriately thin out trees that are too densely growing, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth vigor.

3. Carry out winter plowing and soil turning to improve the soil, and apply winter fertilizer to all trees, ground cover and lawns to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.

4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under the trees, dig out and collect the pupae and cocoons of slug moths and burn them in a concentrated way.

5. As the situation requires, scarify individual lawn types and prune 1-2 times. February

1. Carry out weeding, pruning and fertilizing of lawns.

2. Do a good job of pest and disease control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on narrow-leaved mahonia and soft scale insects on coral trees and Japanese fatsia.

3. In particular, strengthen antifreeze and heat-preservation measures for trees, and do a good job of loosening and earthing up the soil around tree roots.

4. Apply a topdressing (urea) to cool-season lawns once at the end of the month, 10 g/mu.

March

1. To prevent spring drought, promptly water trees.

2. Promptly mow lawns and remove weeds, and clean up winter grass in tree beds and flower beds.

3. Pest and disease control: strengthen observation and patrol, and do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control. In particular, pay special attention to sooty mold and the box tree leaf roller. In mid-March, crape myrtle scale eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on crabapple species and cool-season lawns; pay attention to prevention reports.

4. For local sunken and low-lying spots on lawns, carry out earthing up and sand covering; carry out low pruning of winter ryegrass lawns to ensure the sprouting and growth of the underlying grass.

April

1. Do a good job of loosening the soil, weeding, and pre-flowering fertilization for field-planted flowers and trees. In particular, apply light fertilizer to perennial flowers and spring-sown flowering plants; for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and topdress with quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

2. Cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring; begin pruning evergreen hedges.

3. Pest and disease control: mainly control aphids, sooty mold and beetles. Keep relevant records.

May

1. This month is the peak leaf-unfolding period for trees, with a very high water demand, so water in good time.

2. Prune spring flowering shrubs such as osmanthus and hall crabapple, and promptly carry out bud removal on plane trees, redleaf plum, crape myrtle and other trees.

3. Hoe weeds in flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, weed lawns and promptly prune lawn grass to control its height.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control.

June

1. Promptly water plants to ensure sufficient water supply for plants.

2. Loosen the soil and hoe weeds around tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out the work of removing weeds from lawns.

3. Lawns should be mowed in a timely manner, and their growth height should be controlled, with attention paid to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply a compound fertilizer once to lawns that are growing poorly or lacking fertilizer, so that they can safely pass through the summer.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

July

1. In hot weather, it is especially important to ensure that watering work for plants is carried out.

2. Carry out soil loosening and hoeing work for flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of removing weeds from ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity, and weeds grow quickly. Seize the opportunity to carry out hoeing and weed removal to prevent weeds from running wild. Continue intertillage, weed control, and soil loosening.

3. Earnestly do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention work, reinforce and strengthen the trees in the garden to prevent lodging; promptly dredge and drain low-lying areas or places with severe water accumulation.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

August

1. Carry out summer pruning of evergreen trees, and carry out shaping and pruning of hedges.

2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously, so weeds should be removed and mowing should be done in a timely manner to control lawn height, and fertilizing can be combined with weed removal. Timely supplementary and additional fertilization is needed, mainly with P and K fertilizers, together with N fertilizer. For small saplings, shrubs, and herbaceous flowers, apply light fertilizer frequently, and at the same time pay attention to mastering the fertilization period and climate.

3. In hot weather, it is essential to ensure daily watering and drought relief work, and it must not be done between 10:00 and 15:00 to avoid burning the seedlings. (Including: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)

4. Continue to do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention work, further reinforce and strengthen large trees in residential areas to prevent lodging; and promptly dredge drainage ditches in low-lying and other water-accumulation-prone places to prevent water from standing for too long.

5. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

September

1. Carry out shaping and pruning of hedges. Remove weeds in green areas and promptly clean up dead trees, so that tree branches are green and leaves are lush, and the green areas are clean and tidy.

2. Thin out trees that are growing too densely, and at the same time carry out bud removal work.

3. Lawns should be mowed, edged, and cleared of weeds in a timely manner, and attention should be paid to pest and disease control work.

4. Carry out hoeing work for flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of removing weeds from ground cover, and collect flower seeds.

5. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

October

1. Prune spherical shrubs; to ensure a beautiful appearance, neat and clearly layered. Prune the tree shape of evergreen trees so that their growth and development tend toward rationality and their tree posture and appearance are improved.

2. Strengthen management of newly planted herbaceous flowers, promptly fill in bare spots and water, and fertilize those growing poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records. November

1. Carry out branch thinning and pruning of evergreen arbor trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly for ventilation and light transmission, reducing pests and diseases, and enhancing growth vigor.

2. For flower beds, color-block shrubs, and green areas, do a good job of weed removal and edging, promptly pull out weeds, and promptly replant bare spots. Adjust trees in the local layout as appropriate, and some evergreen trees and a small number of deciduous tree species can be transplanted. Also begin cold protection and warmth work, for those with cold resistance

poorer trees, wrap them with rice straw and earth up the soil.

3. Strengthen maintenance and management of newly planted plants, pay attention to timely watering, and prune appropriately. For lawns, carry out dethatching and aeration as appropriate, and at the same time mow 2-3 times.

4. Carry out fertilization work in late this month, and combine with additional application of organic fertilizer to carry out soil turning work in green areas.

5. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records. December

1. For color-block shrubs and green areas, do a good job of weed removal and edging, and promptly pull out weeds.

2. Carry out branch thinning and pruning of evergreen and deciduous arbor trees and shrubs, mainly to remove residual stumps and dead branches, in order to make the trees grow better in the second year (flowering shrubs that have already formed flower buds must not be pruned), and at the same time pay attention to cleaning up insect cocoons on tree trunks and branches.

3. Wrap cycads, date palms, and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they safely overwinter.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records.

Section 4: "Latest Common Plants Used in Southern Landscaping"

Common Garden Plants Used in Southern Landscaping

Evergreen arbor trees:

Norfolk Island pine, slash pine, Chinese fir, Caribbean pine, Chinese weeping cypress, mahogany, large-leaved mahogany, Sterculia lanceolata, Chinese saraca, sugar apple, longan, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Michelia macclurei, golden shower tree, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Fujian cypress, Buddhist pine, Japanese cedar, Taiwan podocarpus, long-leaved podocarpus, Michelia alba, southern magnolia, houpo magnolia, Cinnamomum burmannii, camphor tree, cinnamon, Rehderodendron? no, Gmelina? no, Ormosia hainanensis, Taiwan acacia, Senna siamea, Bauhinia blakeana, Bauhinia purpurea, Bauhinia variegata, almond, mango, Ormosia henryi, Cleistocalyx operculatus, Elaeocarpus hainanensis, avocado, Alstonia scholaris, Archontophoenix alexandrae, Livistona chinensis, Caryota mitis, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Syzygium jambos, Syzygium hainanense, sapodilla, lemon-scented gum, Eucalyptus exserta, Eucalyptus grandis? no, Eucalyptus globulus, Melaleuca leucadendra, Cleidiocarpon cavaleriei, Torreya grandis, Cephalotaxus fortunei, Indian rubber fig, Ficus altissima, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus auriculata, Ficus benjamina, Ficus virens, sacred fig, Casuarina equisetifolia, jackfruit, Acer cinnamomifolium, Castanopsis sclerophylla, Cyclobalanopsis glauca, Aleurites moluccanus, silver birch? no, Grevillea robusta, Elaeocarpus apiculatus, Elaeocarpus sylvestris? no, Hibiscus tiliaceus, Ilex rotunda, glossy privet, osmanthus, loquat, Albizia falcataria, royal palm, Caryota obtusa? no, no, Chinese fan palm? no, Arenga pinnata? no, Phoenix loureiroi, Bischofia javanica, red sandalwood, Dillenia indica? no, Dillenia turbinata, jackfruit, Cassia surattensis, Artocarpus heterophyllus? no, large-leaved privet, Michelia chapensis, Schefflera octophylla, Heteropanax fragrans

Deciduous arbor trees:

Terminalia mantaly, Chinese swamp cypress, Alnus? no, Chinese tallow tree, Hovenia dulcis, sand pear, soapberry, Koelreuteria integrifoliola, frangipani, bald cypress, pond cypress, Chinese tulip tree, Magnolia denudata, Firmiana simplex, sawtooth oak, cork oak, Chinese hackberry, Chinese elm, white oak, camptotheca, Lagerstroemia speciosa? no, large-flowered crape myrtle? no, Ceiba speciosa, flame tree, Caesalpinia pulcherrima, Jacaranda mimosifolia? no, Cassia surattensis, Chinaberry, Chukrasia tabularis, coral tree, cockspur coral tree, chestnut, silk tree, Acacia farnesiana, Kalopanax septemlobus, sweetgum, weeping willow, Magnolia soulangeana, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, papaya, India

red sandalwood, red-leaf plum

Evergreen shrubs:

sago palm, Chinese plum yew, Aglaia odorata, Euonymus japonicus, Elaeagnus pungens? no, Camellia sasanqua, Viburnum odoratissimum? no, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Hypericum monogynum, Areca triandra, Areca lutescens? no, Arenga? no, Chuniophoenix hainanensis, Aglaia odorata? no, Allamanda cathartica, Justicia gendarussa, Callistemon rigidus, Carmona retusa, Gardenia jasminoides, Euphorbia milii, poinsettia, Jasminum mesnyi, Aucuba chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Rhododendron? no, Cordyline fruticosa? no, Codiaeum variegatum, Acalypha wilkesiana, Acalypha wilkesiana 'Marginata'? no, Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Senna? no, Rhododendron ovatum? no, Ardisia japonica, Murraya paniculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Artabotrys hexapetalus, Camellia japonica, Camellia oleifera, large-leaved tea, oleander, yellow oleander, Allamanda cathartica? no, Serissa japonica, Michelia figo, Pittosporum tobira, Mahonia fortunei, Nandina domestica, Fatsia japonica, Magnolia coco, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia? no, Rhododendron simsii, Yucca gloriosa? no, Yucca smalliana? no, Buxus harlandii? no, Trachycarpus? no, Phoenix roebelenii, Caryota mitis, Rhapis excelsa, Rhapis? no,

Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Ficus pandurata, Ficus salicifolia? no, Sanchezia nobilis, Schefflera octophylla, Duranta erecta 'Variegata', Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves', Justicia gendarussa? no, Ligustrum sinense? no, Alocasia macrorrhizos, Philodendron? no, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Sansevieria trifasciata, Rhaphiolepis? no, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Variegata', Euphorbia cotinifolia, Buxus sinica? no, African jasmine, Brunfelsia? no, Ixora? no, Crinum asiaticum, Hymenocallis? no, Calliandra? no, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Datura? no, Mussaenda frondosa, Mussaenda? no, Rhododendron? no, Rhododendron? no, Senna bicapsularis, Tecomaria capensis? no, Rhodomyrtus tomentosa, Ixora chinensis, Jasminum? no, Jasminum sambac, Jatropha pandurifolia? no, Plumbago auriculata, Oxypetalum? no, Hiptage? no, Nandina domestica, Zanthoxylum? no, Excoecaria cochinchinensis,

Deciduous shrubs:

Hibiscus mutabilis, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea? no, modern rose, Abelia? no, pomegranate, Callicarpa? no, Magnolia liliiflora, Lespedeza? no, Lonicera maackii? no, Hydrangea? no, Hibiscus syriacus, redbud, Prunus japonica, Spiraea? no, Spiraea? no, Exochorda? no, Sambucus? no, fig, Zanthoxylum? no, Poncirus trifoliata, Buddleja? no, Ligustrum sinense? no

Vines:

Monstera deliciosa, Bougainvillea, Millettia reticulata, Pyrostegia venusta, Quisqualis indica, Akebia trifoliata, honeysuckle, Euonymus fortunei, Ficus pumila, kiwi, Euonymus? no, Hong Kong? no, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Hoya? no, Epipremnum? no, Epipremnum aureum, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedera nepalensis? no, Hedera helix? no, Kadsura? no, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Campsis grandiflora, Passiflora caerulea, Lagerstroemia? no, Mucuna? no, Thunbergia grandiflora

Artabotrys hexapetalus, Thunbergia grandiflora, Quisqualis indica, Antigonon leptopus, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Pyrostegia venusta, Mucuna? no, Clerodendrum? no, Wisteria sinensis, Ficus pumila, Ipomoea quamoclit, morning glory, Ipomoea? no, Celastrus? no, Jasminum officinale, Aristolochia gigantea, Mansoa alliacea, Merremia? no, Bignonia? no, Passiflora caerulea

Bamboo:

Bambusa textilis, Bambusa chungii, moso bamboo, Bambusa multiplex? no, Phyllostachys glauca, Bambusa vulgaris 'Vittata', Bambusa emeiensis? no, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus amarus, Indocalamus tessellatus, Bambusa ventricosa, Dendrocalamus latiflorus, Bambusa textilis, Thai bamboo, Bambusa pervariabilis, Chimonobambusa quadrangularis, Bambusa oldhamii? no, Bambusa multiplex? no, Bambusa multiplex? no, Phyllostachys? no

Lawns and ground cover plants:

Bermuda grass, Zoysia sinica, Zoysia tenuifolia, carpet grass, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Paspalum distichum, Manila grass, Zoysia japonica, Aglaonema? no, Tradescantia virginiana? no, oyster plant? no, Liriope? no, Curculigo? no, Liriope? no, Reineckea carnea, Aspidistra elatior, black-eyed? no, Acorus gramineus? no, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes? no, Lycoris aurea, white butterfly? no, Iris? no, Oxalis corymbosa? no, Tradescantia zebrina? no,

Calathea? no, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly', Epipremnum aureum, Tradescantia zebrina, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pilea cadierei? no, Tradescantia? no, Spathiphyllum? no, Liriope? no, Lantana camara, Lantana camara? no, Lantana? no

Lantana? no, silver ragwort, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Justicia? no, asparagus fern, Oenothera? no, beach morning glory, ivy, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedychium coronarium, Cyperus alternifolius, papyrus, iris, Lythrum? no, narcissus, lotus, water lily, Wedelia trilobata, Oxalis corymbosa, Arachis? no, Dichondra repens, Alternanthera? no, Alternanthera? no, coleus, Verbena tenuisecta? no, Alternanthera? no, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes? no, Hippeastrum? no, lily, calla lily, Catharanthus roseus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Manila grass, Korean lawn grass, Bermuda grass, large-leaved carpet grass? no, St. Augustine grass? no, bahia grass? no, Liriope? no

Palms:

Royal palm, Washington palm, Dypsis? no, Roystonea? no, Wodyetia bifurcata, Butia capitata, bottle palm, club palm? no, Phoenix dactylifera, Canary Island date palm, Bismarckia nobilis, oil palm, Caryota obtusa? no, Trachycarpus fortunei, Licuala? no, Livistona chinensis, Queen palm? no, Caryota mitis, Queen palm? no, no, Phoenix canariensis? no, Phoenix roebelenii, Caryota mitis, Caryota? no, Areca lutescens? no, Areca triandra, traveler's palm, Rhapis excelsa

Seasonal flowers

Pentas lanceolata, Impatiens walleriana? no, Begonia cucullata? no, Salvia splendens, petunia, Dianthus hybridus? no, ornamental kale, Tagetes patula? no, marigold, nasturtium, pansy, Torenia fournieri, cockscomb, Calendula officinalis, Gomphrena globosa, zinnia, Portulaca grandiflora, Portulaca? no, Cosmos bipinnatus, cineraria, Cleome spinosa, Hemerocallis? no, lavender, Lythrum? no

Section 5: "Examples of Southern Plant Combinations"

Southern Plant Combinations

Philodendron bipinnatifidum + Cyperus alternifolius + Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata'

Dracaena? no + Dracaena? no + Nandina domestica + Nephrolepis cordifolia + placed stones

Royal palm + Caryota obtusa? no + Phoenix roebelenii + canna + coleus + Codiaeum variegatum

Royal palm + Canary Island date palm head + Cordyline? no + Acalypha wilkesiana + Ixora chinensis

Royal palm + Archontophoenix alexandrae + Areca lutescens? no + Rhapis excelsa + Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves'

Section 6: "Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern China"

Commonly Used Plants in Southern Courtyards

I. Palms:

1. Royal palm 2. Archontophoenix alexandrae 3. Washington palm 4. Silver date palm 5. Canary Island date palm 6. Areca triandra

7. Livistona chinensis 8. no 9. Areca lutescens? no 10. Rhapis excelsa (slender-leaved rhapis) 11. no 12. Phoenix roebelenii

II. Arbor trees (street trees, shade trees):

1. Flame tree 2. silk cotton tree 3. Ceiba speciosa 4. coral tree 5. Elaeocarpus apiculatus 6. Alstonia scholaris

7. Ficus microcarpa 8. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 9. mango 10. Chukrasia tabularis 11. Cinnamomum burmannii 12. Lagerstroemia speciosa

13. red sandalwood 14. frangipani 15. Terminalia catappa 16. traveler's palm 17. Pandanus tectorius? no 18. Bischofia javanica

19. carambola 20. Olea? no 21. golden shower tree 22. Albizia falcataria 23. Melaleuca leucadendra

24. eucalyptus 25. Syzygium hainanense 26. Aphanamixis? no 27. Bauhinia purpurea 28. mahogany

29. Ficus altissima 30. Spathodea campanulata 31. Tabebuia? no 32. Koelreuteria bipinnata

III. Flowering shrubs:

1. Osmanthus fragrans 2. Bambusa multiplex? no 3. tree fern 4. Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves' 5. Bougainvillea

6. Cassia surattensis 7. Callistemon rigidus 8. Agave? no 9. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 10. Fagraea ceilanica 11. Ficus? no

12. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 13. Michelia figo 14. Lagerstroemia? no 15. Calliandra? no 16. Tabernaemontana divaricata 17. Ixora? no

18. Agave? no 19. Yucca smalliana? no 20. Pyrostegia venusta 21. yellow oleander 22. Polyscias? no

IV. Ground cover or color blocks:

1. Pittosporum tobira 2. Monstera deliciosa 3. Epipremnum aureum 4. bird's nest fern 5. red gem? no 6. large-leaved? no 7. Schefflera octophylla

8. no 9. Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves' 10. Cuphea? no 11. Ophiopogon? no 12. Calathea? no 13. Rhododendron? no

14. dwarf Livistona chinensis 15. Philodendron bipinnatifidum 16. Duranta erecta 'Variegata' 17. Hymenocallis? no 18. Tradescantia zebrina 19. Allamanda cathartica

20. Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata' 21. asparagus fern 22. Arachis? no 23. Ixora chinensis? no 24. Nephrolepis cordifolia 25. Pachystachys lutea

26. white butterfly? no 27. Pilea cadierei? no 28. Dieffenbachia? no 29. Cordyline? no 30. Codiaeum variegatum 31. Liriope? no

32. Liriope? no 33. jasmine 34. Calathea? no 35. Taiwan grass 36. large-leaved carpet grass? no

37. Manila grass 38. Bermuda grass 39. ryegrass 40. tall fescue

There are also some commonly used plants:

1. Ficus religiosa 2. Ficus altissima 3. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 4. campanula? no 5. National Day flower? no 6. golden shower tree

7. Senna siamea 8. sausage tree 9. Thailand yellow large yellow flower ball? no 10. Melaleuca bracteata? no

11. Senna alata 12. Senna bicapsularis 13. Jatropha? no 14. Cleistocalyx operculatus 15. Manglietia? no

16. Hainan? no 17. Pachira aquatica 'Variegata' 18. Ormosia hainanensis 19. mahogany

20. Albizia falcataria 21. Cinnamomum? no 22. autumn osmanthus? no 23. laurel 24. no 25. Bambusa multiplex? no

26. Indian yellow (purple) sandalwood 27. red sandalwood 28. Dianella? no 29. Leizhou fig? no 30. Markhamia? no

Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern China

1. Evergreen arbor trees

Norfolk Island pine, Cunningham's araucaria? no, Keteleeria? no, Araucaria bidwillii? no, Agathis? no, masson pine, slash pine, camphor tree, Cinnamomum? no, Eucalyptus grandis? no, Melaleuca leucadendra, Syzygium jambos, Syzygium hainanense, Bischofia javanica, Taiwan acacia, Acacia mangium? no, Acacia auriculiformis, red sandalwood, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus virens? no, Ficus altissima, Ficus superba? no, Indian rubber fig, variegated Indian rubber fig, sacred fig, Aleurites moluccanus, mahogany, Dillenia? no, Alstonia scholaris, Terminalia catappa, Terminalia mantaly, jackfruit, wax apple? no, Dracontomelon duperreanum, sapodilla, Chukrasia tabularis, Casuarina equisetifolia, Michelia alba, Magnolia coco, Michelia macclurei, Elaeocarpus? no, southern magnolia, Hibiscus tiliaceus, mango, longan, lychee, olive, loquat, bayberry, pomelo, Elaeocarpus hainanensis, Buddhist pine, dragon juniper, Taiwan podocarpus, osmanthus, Osmanthus fragrans? no, Michelia figo, Aglaia odorata, camellia, weeping fig? no, Cleidiocarpon cavaleriei, Ficus? no

2. Deciduous arbor trees

Dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, Chinese swamp cypress, Chinese tulip tree, Firmiana simplex? no, Bischofia polycarpa, Albizia falcataria, Albizia? no, Leucaena leucocephala, sweetgum, weeping willow, sausage tree, Anthocephalus chinensis? no, Grevillea robusta, Chinese hackberry, soapberry, Pistacia chinensis, Chinaberry, Chinese tallow tree, Vernicia montana? no, ginkgo, Sterculia? no, persimmon, fig, mulberry, papaya, guava, red maple, Acacia farnesiana

3. Palms

Archontophoenix alexandrae, royal palm, Roystonea? no, bottle palm, club palm? no, Dypsis? no, Wodyetia bifurcata, Queen palm? no, oil palm, sugar palm, Washingtonia? no, Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Phoenix dactylifera, Iranian? no, Livistona chinensis, Caryota obtusa? no, sugar palm? no, Phoenix? no, Phoenix roebelenii, Areca triandra, Areca? no, Areca? no, Caryota? no, Caryota mitis, Areca lutescens? no, Trachycarpus fortunei, banana, traveler's palm, Cordyline fruticosa, Rhapis excelsa, slender-leaved rhapis, Strelitzia nicolai, Philodendron? no, Alocasia? no

4. Foliage shrubs

Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Ficus pandurata, Ficus salicifolia? no, Garcinia? no, Phragmites? no, Polyalthia? no, Pandanus tectorius, Pittosporum tobira, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Variegata', sago palm, Callistemon rigidus, Cestrum nocturnum, Cotinus? no, Sanchezia nobilis, Fatsia japonica, Juniperus procumbens? no, Manihot? no, Nandina domestica, Schefflera octophylla, Schefflera? no, Zanthoxylum? no, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Acalypha wilkesiana, Syringa? no, Duranta erecta, Duranta erecta 'Variegata', Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves', Murraya paniculata, Codiaeum variegatum, Codiaeum? no, Codiaeum? no, Codiaeum? no, Justicia gendarussa, Carmona retusa, Buxus sinica? no, Ligustrum sinense? no, Euphorbia milii, Agave? no, Agave? no, Agave americana 'Marginata'? no, Yucca smalliana? no, Beaucarnea recurvata, Aspidistra elatior, Sansevieria trifasciata, cactus, Alocasia macrorrhizos, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Scaevola? no, Rhaphiolepis? no, Breynia? no, Phyllanthus? no, Chinese rose? no

5. Flowering shrubs

African jasmine, Brunfelsia? no, Murraya? no, Hibiscus syriacus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia? no, Malvaviscus? no, poinsettia, Calliandra? no, Bougainvillea, Gardenia jasminoides? no, hydrangea, Pachystachys? no, Melastoma? no, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Datura? no, Mussaenda frondosa, Mussaenda? no, Allamanda? no, Rhododendron? no, Senna bicapsularis, Tecomaria capensis? no, Rhodomyrtus tomentosa, Ixora chinensis, Spiraea? no, Jasminum mesnyi, jasmine, Crinum asiaticum,

Hymenocallis? no, crab claw? no, dwarf canna, Reinwardtia? no, Jatropha pandurifolia? no, Plumbago auriculata, Oxypetalum? no, Hiptage? no

6. Ground cover

Calathea? no, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly', Epipremnum aureum, Tradescantia zebrina, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pilea cadierei? no, Tradescantia? no, Spathiphyllum? no, Liriope? no, Liriope? no, Lantana camara, Lantana camara? no, Lantana? no, silver ragwort, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Justicia? no, asparagus fern, Oenothera? no, beach morning glory, ivy, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedychium coronarium, Cyperus alternifolius, papyrus, iris, Lythrum? no, narcissus, lotus, water lily, Wedelia trilobata, Oxalis corymbosa, Arachis? no, Dichondra repens, Alternanthera? no, Alternanthera? no, coleus, Verbena tenuisecta? no, Alternanthera? no, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes? no, Hippeastrum? no, lily, calla lily, Catharanthus roseus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Manila grass, Korean lawn grass, Bermuda grass, large-leaved carpet grass? no, St. Augustine grass? no, bahia grass? no, Liriope? no

7. Vines

Thunbergia grandiflora, Quisqualis indica, Antigonon leptopus, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Pyrostegia venusta, Mucuna? no, Clerodendrum? no, Wisteria sinensis, Ficus pumila, Ipomoea quamoclit, morning glory, Ipomoea? no, Celastrus? no, Jasminum officinale, Aristolochia gigantea, Mansoa alliacea, Merremia? no, Bignonia? no, Passiflora caerulea

Section 7: "Commonly Used Plant Configuration Document for Southern China"

Practical Plant Configuration Table — Concise Table of Common Plant Configurations

Aquatic plants:

Wetland plants: Hankow willow, weeping willow, cotton willow, sand willow, Artemisia? no, Salix? no, Populus simonii, Populus? no, Sabina vulgaris? no, Chinese juniper, Chinese arborvitae, dawn redwood, Chinaberry, Chinese wingnut, Chinese ash? no, forsythia, elm, Ulmus laciniata? no, Chinese elm, Chinese tallow tree, cherry blossom, Eucommia ulmoides, goldenrain tree, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, oleander, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, grape, Wisteria sinensis, Amorpha fruticosa, tamarisk, buttercup, Halerpestes? no, Halerpestes? no, Salix? no, Salix? no, Stachys? no, Stachys? no, mint, Lindernia? no, Veronica? no, watercress, Scirpus? no, Scirpus? no, Scirpus? no, Cyperus? no, Cyperus? no, Cyperus? no, Cyperus? no, Juncus? no, Juncus? no, Juncus? no, Juncus? no, Polygonum aviculare, Polygonum? no, Polygonum orientale, Polygonum? no, Polygonum lapathifolium, Polygonum? no, Polygonum? no, Polygonum perfoliatum, Polygonum? no, Polygonum thunbergii, Polygonum? no, Polygonum cuspidatum, Imperata cylindrica, Calamagrostis? no, Calamagrostis? no, Beckmannia? no, Sphaerocaryum? no, Arundinella? no, Miscanthus sacchariflorus, Coix? no, Hemarthria? no, wetland? no

Emergent plants: Scirpus? no, reed, lotus root, arrowhead, Cyperus? no, Alisma? no, lotus, Lythrum? no, cattail, Monochoria? no, Monochoria? no, Acorus calamus, Pontederia cordata, rice, Kandelia? no, narcissus, water dropwort, wild rice stem, taro, Marsilea quadrifolia, reed, water chestnut, Scirpus? no, Scirpus? no, Typha? no, Cyperus? no, Typha latifolia

Floating plants: duckweed, water hyacinth, water lily, fox nut, Victoria amazonica, Nuphar? no, water hyacinth, Nymphoides? no, water shield, Utricularia? no, floating fern, Nymphoides? no

Submerged plants: hornwort, water plantain

Colorful-leaf plants:

Red or purple: sweetgum, lacquer tree, Japanese maple, Amur maple, Oriental bittersweet, red oak, sugar maple, Chinese tallow tree, staghorn sumac, sumac, mountain ash, heavenly bamboo, winged euonymus, hawthorn, Chinese pistache, Chinese wingnut, barberry, Hubei hornbeam, Boston ivy

Golden yellow or yellowish brown: ginkgo, persimmon, goldenrain tree, Chinese tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, elm, walnut, catalpa, dawn redwood, crape myrtle, Chinese elm, nanmu, wild jujube, kiwifruit, horse chestnut, water elm mountain ash, wintersweet, pomegranate, yellow cassia, witch hazel, soapberry, acacia

Aromatic plants:

Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: herbs such as mint, basil, lemon balm, chamomile, lemongrass, sage, dandelion, pot marigold, thyme, borage, scented geranium, and mallow; shrubs such as lavender, rosemary, gardenia, rose, and lemon verbena.

Woody plants arranged to release fragrance in turn through the four seasons, for example: plum blossom and orange blossom in spring; gardenia and white magnolia in summer; osmanthus in autumn and wintersweet in winter.

Pollution-resistant and exhaust-gas-resistant plants: black locust, paulownia, lacebark pine, Chinese juniper, coral tree, photinia, pittosporum, Japanese fatsia, etc.

Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, Amorpha fruticosa, Caragana, Glycine, Lespedeza, Melilotus, Pisum, Phaseolus, Myrica, Elaeagnus, Cycas

Nectar-source, bird-attracting and butterfly-attracting plants: dwarf yew, Buddhist pine, Chinese Torreya, Japanese holly, camphor tree, bayberry, privet, ternstroemia, viburnum, aucuba, mahonia, firethorn, boxwood, pittosporum, Japanese fatsia, etc.; butterfly bush, Chinese pistache; other fragrant-flowered plants (such as plants of the genus Citrus in the family Rutaceae)

Perennial (herbaceous perennial) flowers: red-hot poker (torch lily), lupine, blue fescue, astilbe, coreopsis, golden globes, oregano, rose mallow, red-flowered mint, variegated star jasmine, Delosperma, hellebore, red spider lily, daylily, iris, spiderwort, hosta, variegated canna, red-leaf canna, New York aster, Farfugium japonicum, Bletilla striata, perennial hibiscus

Flowering trees and shrubs of the four seasons:

Spring: various cherries (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Malus micromalus, Malus cathayensis, Malus spectabilis, etc.), Magnoliaceae (southern magnolia, white magnolia, Saucer magnolia, purple magnolia, red magnolia, banana shrub, Michelia maudiae, etc.), redbud, red-leaf plum

plum, peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, lilac, etc.

Summer: crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, hydrangea, banana shrub, summer azalea, pomegranate (flower), gardenia, Chinese trumpet creeper, silk tree, acacia. Autumn: osmanthus, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, flowering pomegranate, cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, etc.

Winter: honeysuckle, heavenly bamboo, plum blossom, banana shrub, camellia, sasanqua, etc.

Classification diagram of common landscaping tree species:

(1) Evergreen conifers

1. Tree types: deodar cedar, Korean pine, Japanese black pine, dragon juniper, Masson pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Japanese cedar, Chinese Torreya

2. Shrub types: (Buddhist pine), Oriental arborvitae, Chinese incense cedar, creeping juniper, Japanese cedar, five-needle pine

(2) Deciduous conifers (no shrubs):

Tree types: dawn redwood, golden larch, pond cypress, bald cypress

(3) Evergreen broadleaf trees:

1. Tree types: camphor tree, southern magnolia, privet, palm

2. Shrub types: coral tree, Japanese euonymus, boxleaf euonymus, Japanese boxwood, Chinese holly, orange tree, photinia, pittosporum, osmanthus, oleander, golden bell, winter jasmine, variegated coral tree, heavenly bamboo, serissa, small-leaf privet, Japanese fatsia, gardenia, distylium, camellia, hypericum, azalea, yucca (yucca, Adam's needle), sago palm (cycad), mahonia

(4) Deciduous broadleaf trees:

1. Tree types: weeping willow, erect willow, Chinese wingnut, dragon-claw willow, Chinese tallow tree, pagoda tree, Chinese parasol tree (Chinese parasol

tree), plane tree (London plane), pagoda tree (Chinese scholar tree), curly pagoda tree, silk tree, ginkgo, chinaberry (bead tree), catalpa

2. Shrub types: cherry, white magnolia, peach blossom, wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, maple, green maple, red-leaf plum, Malus spectabilis, bellflower crabapple, hydrangea, lacecap hydrangea, golden bell (golden rod), cotton rose, rose of Sharon (shrub althea), Chinese mahogany (guangxi tree), pomegranate

(5) Bamboo types: Ci-xiao bamboo, giant timber bamboo, moso bamboo, black bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, hedge bamboo, Buddha belly bamboo, golden bamboo with jade-green stripes

(6) Vines: wisteria, star jasmine, Boston ivy (Virginia creeper, Boston ivy), English ivy, grape vine, winter creeper

(7) Flowers: moss rose, chrysanthemum, scarlet sage, canna, Joseph's coat, cabbage (ornamental kale), chrysanthemum, orchid

(8) Lawn: velvet grass, zoysia grass, dwarf lilyturf, evergreen grass, tall fescue, Manila grass, clover, dichondra

Detailed table of commonly used plant arrangements

Table of commonly used street trees

Name Scientific name Family Tree form Characteristics

Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, triplinerved, aromatic, berries spherical.

Plane tree Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovate Tolerates warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerates pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.

Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Flamboyant tree Delonix regia Raffin Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Sun-loving, prefers warm hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; flowers red and beautiful, flowering period May to August

Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree

Acacia Albizia farnesiana Wild. Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, fast-growing, dense branches and leaves, flowers golden yellow, excellent tree vigor

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-lying land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form

Banyan Ficus retusa Linn. Moraceae Spherical Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy density, suitable for various forms of pruning

Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora Ness. Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and rounded, vigorous growth, beautiful tree form

Chinese fan palm Livitonia chinensis R.Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, leaf surface dark green, vigorous growth, very beautiful form

Longan tree Euphoria longana Lanark. Sapindaceae Round Evergreen tree, round crown, strong canopy density, relatively slow-growing, very beautiful form

Chinaberry (bead tree) Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous tree, fast-growing, irregular crown, slightly umbrella-shaped, flowers pale purple

Chinese parasol tree Sterculia platanifolia L. Sterculiaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, broad leaves, fast-growing, upright when young, crown spreading when old

Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, umbrella-shaped crown, also beautiful in form

Alder Alnus formosana Makino. Fagaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry land and hard soil, tall and beautiful tree form

Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, vigorous, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Norfolk Island pine Araucaria cuninghamii Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, prefers warm hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fertilizer-loving, fast-growing, narrow conical crown, graceful form

Qinghai spruce Picea carassifolia Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, neutral, shallow-rooted, suitable for the Northwest region

Korean pine Pinus koraiensis Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, weakly sun-loving, prefers cool humid climates and acidic soil, needles blue-green

Chinese juniper (Chinese juniper) Sabina chinensis Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, young trees slightly shade-tolerant, tolerant of drought and poor soil, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, tolerates pruning, good dust-blocking and sound-insulating effect

Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovate Evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,

Acacia tree Acacia confusa Merr. Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly curved, strong growth

Date palm Phoenix dactylifera L. Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk branching, strong heat resistance, vigorous growth, also beautiful in form

Canary Island date palm (Canary Island date palm) Phoenix dactylifera Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk thick and strong, tall and majestic, pinnate leaves dense and spreading,

Royal palm (royal palm) Oreodoxa regia H.B.K. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, can reach 18 m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value

Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba Ginkgoaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, autumn leaves yellow, cold-tolerant, deep-rooted, not tolerant of waterlogging, resistant to many toxic gases

Chinese tulip tree (Chinese tulip tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm humid climates, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaves shaped like a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese white poplar Populus tomentosa Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers cool climates, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, relatively long-lived; tree form upright, trunk straight, bark gray-white

Lombardy poplar Populus nigra var. italica Salicaceae Narrow cylindrical Deciduous broadleaf tree, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of saline-alkali and waterlogging, fast-growing

Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke, dust and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity

Box elder (ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerates pruning, autumn leaves yellow {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Table of characteristics of commonly used landscape trees

Name Scientific name Family Tree form Characteristics

Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, triplinerved, aromatic, berries spherical.

Plane tree Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovate Tolerates warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerates pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.

Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovate Evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,

White magnolia Magnolia denudata Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Quite cold-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging. Flowers large pure white, blooms March to April. Suitable for garden viewing.

Chinese tulip tree (Chinese tulip tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm humid climates, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaves shaped like a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Oriental arborvitae Thuja orientalis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen tree, tree form neat when young, mostly curved when old, strong growth, long-lived, beautiful tree form

Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Round Evergreen tree, vigorous, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Bischofia Bischoffia javanica Blanco Euphorbiaceae Round Evergreen tree, very beautiful when young leaves sprout, vigorous growth, beautiful tree form

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-lying land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form

Chinese incense cedar Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz Cupressaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, with irregular longitudinal fissures; branchlets alternate, green when young, flattened.

Royal palm Roystonea regia Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, can reach 18 m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value

Japanese euonymus Euonymus japonica Celastraceae Ovate Prefers warm humid climates, resistant to toxic gases. Grown for foliage. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.

Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Chinese wingnut Pterocarya stenoptera Juglandaceae Umbrella-shaped Strong adaptability, tolerant of waterlogging, fast-growing. Suitable as a shade tree, street tree, and bank-protection tree

Creeping juniper Sabina procumbens Cupressaceae Evergreen creeping low shrub, branches and trunk creeping along the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow-growing, unique tree form, branches and leaves emerald green and smooth. Suitable for ground cover and beautification around courtyard stones, ponds, sand pits, slopes, etc. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Golden dewdrop Duranta repens Verbenaceae Round Evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs, hedges. Golden dewdrop is mainly grown for foliage, widely used, can be used as ground cover, pruned into shapes, used to form patterns or emphasize color combinations, dazzling and eye-catching. Chinese holly Ilex cornuta Aquifoliaceae Round Resistant to toxic gases, slow-growing. Green leaves and red berries, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, also beautiful in form

Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke, dust and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity

Chinese juniper Juniperus Chinensis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen medium tree, branches dense, dark green, vigorous growth, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree form

Pittosporum Pittosporum tobira Pittosporaceae Round White flowers fragrant, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as a hedge or potted plant. Date palm Phoenix dactylifera Linn Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk tillering, can reach 20 to 25 m tall, leaves gray-white with arching curves, vigorous growth, beautiful tree form

Hankow willow Salix matsudana Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Suitable as a shade tree, street tree, and bank-protection tree

Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree

Japanese black pine Pinus Thumbergii Porl. Pinaceae Conical Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard and in clusters of two, long-lived

Red-leaf plum Prunus cerasifera. F.arropurpurea Rosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, red-brown, leaves ovate, entirely purplish red, blooms small pale pink flowers in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both specimen and mass planting, as a background contrast.

Washington palm Washingtonia filifera Wend. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single cylindrical trunk, swollen at the base, up to 4 to 8 m tall, leaves fan-shaped and round, vigorous growth, beautiful tree form {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Pagoda tree Sophora japonica Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves dense, crown broad, suitable as a shade tree and street tree

Yellow cassia Cassia glauca Lam. Fabaceae Round Deciduous tree, even-pinnate compound leaves, flowers yellow, fast-growing, beautiful tree form

Box elder (ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerates pruning, autumn leaves yellow

Japanese maple Acer palmatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Leaves elegant, autumn leaves red. Suitable for garden viewing and potted plants.

Golden larch Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd. Pinaceae Ovate tower-shaped Evergreen tree, branches and leaves spreading, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, leaflets radial, tree form vigorous and upright.

Bottle palm Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk about 3 m tall, base elliptical and swollen, forming a wine bottle shape, very beautiful form

Orange tree Citrus reticulata Rutaceae Round Flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for mass planting.

Chinaberry Melia azedarch Linn. Meliaceae Round Deciduous tree, bark gray-brown, bipinnate odd-pinnate compound leaves, flowers purple, fast-growing

Serissa Serissa serissoides Rubiaceae Round Evergreen small shrub. Leaves dark green, flowers snow-white, slightly pale pink. Branches and leaves slender, good texture, suitable for potted plants, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds, pruned shapes.

Dragon juniper Juniperus chinensis var. Kaituka, Hort Cupressaceae Upright tower-shaped Evergreen medium tree, branches dense, dark green, vigorous growth, very long-lived, very beautiful tree form

Curly pagoda tree S. j. cv. Pendula Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches drooping, suitable for garden viewing, opposite planting or row planting

Dragon-claw willow S. m. cv. Tortuosa Salicaceae Round Branches twisted like a dragon, suitable as a shade tree and ornamental tree

Pygmy date palm Phehix Roebelenii Brien. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, 2 m tall, leaf stalks thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite, an excellent variety with beautiful leaves

Buddhist pine Podocaarpus macrophyllus D. Don Podocarpaceae Long conical Evergreen tree, elegant and simple in form, can be pruned as high-grade bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical, or layered forms for garden landscaping and beautification.

Masson pine Pinus massoniana Lamb. Pinaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, trunk bark red-brown, winter buds brown, large trees majestic

Heavenly bamboo Nandina domestica Berberidaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves elegant, red berries in autumn and winter; for garden viewing, can be mass-planted or potted. Norfolk Island pine Araucaria ecelsa Br. Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer tree, branches whorled, lower ones drooping, leaves dark green, beautiful tree form, vigorous growth

Privet Ligustrum lucidum Oleaceae Ovate Flowers white, blooms in June. Suitable as a hedge or street tree.

Chinese fan palm Livistona chinensis R. Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, can reach 6 to 12 m tall, leaves round, leaf stalk edges spiny, grows luxuriantly, elegant form

Oriental arborvitae Junlperus chinensis cv. Globosa. Cupressaceae Broadly round Shrub, no main trunk, branches clustered.

Green maple Acer serrulatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped conical Deciduous tree. Trunk upright. Tree form light and graceful, can be grown into noble-shaped bonsai, an elegant street tree, landscape tree, and forest-bathing tree.

Japanese boxwood B. bodinieri Buxaceae Ovate Branches and leaves fine and dense, suitable for garden viewing. Can be mass-planted, used as a hedge or potted. Japanese cedar Cryptomeria japonica D. Don Taxodiaceae Conical, ovate, round Evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful

Chapter Eight: "Cultivation and Maintenance of Arecaceae Plants"

The Arecaceae family is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class, with stems single or clustered, upright or climbing; leaves clustered at the top of the stem, well-developed root systems, tolerant of drought and poor soil, strong resistance to pests and diseases, and outstanding for creating tropical-style garden landscapes. This edition will introduce their introduction, transplanting, and disease control.

Brief introduction to the introduction process

There are 183 genera and about 2,400 species of Arecaceae plants worldwide, widely distributed in the world's tropical and subtropical humid regions. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palm plants. A few palm plants have unique adaptability to adverse environments, such as the silver date palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, and many palm species that can tolerate long-term waterlogging, such as the swamp palm. Most palm plants are rich in fiber, with tough stems and well-developed root systems, and have strong wind resistance, such as the false betel nut and Chinese fan palm.

Since the 1940s, in the construction of numerous tropical and subtropical cities around the world, the landscape value of palm plants has been recognized, and they have been used as key species for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in Indonesia, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore.

Some landscaping companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palm plants in the early 1980s. Over the following more than twenty years, southern provinces and regions such as Guangxi, Fujian, and Yunnan, and later Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing, and Yunnan, all successively set off a wave of introducing, producing, and applying palms.

Led by Guangdong Palm Landscape Company and several other units, based on plant geography and ecology theory, through observational research on the growth and mortality of introduced and acclimatized Arecaceae plants, it was found that plants native to the Northern Hemisphere generally have cold-tolerance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species native to high-latitude, high-altitude regions of the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold tolerance. Through research on the cold tolerance and cold-tolerance mechanisms of palm plants, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatization are: temperature, light, humidity, water, and soil. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is governing plant growth and development; low winter temperatures are the dominant factor affecting the success or failure of palm plant introduction and acclimatization. Through research on the salt tolerance and shade tolerance of palms, researchers screened out a group of varieties with relatively strong saline-alkali tolerance and shade tolerance; at the same time, through the control of pests and diseases such as palm phytophthora disease, coconut leaf beetle, and red palm weevil, the incidence of palm pests and diseases was greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarized and invented palm seed germination-promotion technology, mastered the full-crown transplanting and large-specification container seedling cultivation techniques for palm plants, and did effective work on soil improvement, winter cold protection and maintenance, and other technologies.

At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palm plants in South China, including royal palm, Chinese fan palm, broadleaf lady palm, South coconut, fishtail palm, etc.; in Shanghai and surrounding areas, the Arecaceae plants successfully applied mainly include Butia palm, hairy Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Washington palm, and more than ten other species, and the related research technology has been appraised by experts as reaching the world's advanced level.

Taking the Washington palm as an example

On the occurrence and control of Phytophthora disease

Damage and general symptoms of Phytophthora disease in palms

This disease commonly occurs and causes damage on palm plants such as Royal palm, Chinese fan palm, Washington palm, Mexican blue palm, and Canary Island date palm. On affected plants, the central spear leaf cannot emerge normally, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases the entire plant wilts in patches. The pathogen of Phytophthora disease is caused by Phytophthora fungi and can be identified through incubation in an incubator. The pathogen mainly overwinters in the soil or on diseased plant residues. The pathogen spreads through watering, rain splash, and air movement.

Occurrence pattern of Phytophthora disease in Washington palm

This disease occurs during the high-temperature and high-humidity period between summer and autumn. Following early drought and later rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as heavy watering, soil water content

suddenly increases, poor ventilation, or plants located in wind gap positions are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying, poorly drained, and continuous cropping plots. In addition, the disease is often related to severe root damage caused during seedling digging and long-distance transport.

When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young central spear leaf rots, and the leaves turn grayish-green and droop, and can be pulled out with slight force. Dissecting the stem, one can see paste-like secretions at the growth point and even throughout the central part of the plant, with a foul odor, and white mold-like growth can appear on infected tissue. In severely affected plants, root damage is also often seen, with the main symptoms being blackened, rotted roots and an abnormal

odor. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries; adult trees planted in green spaces are less commonly affected.

Symptoms

In recent years, the damage has been relatively severe in nursery sites. In the early stage of disease onset, yellowish-brown water-soaked lesions first appear on parts near the ground, and the lesions rapidly expand, become slightly sunken, and in humid conditions are densely covered with white cottony mold on the surface, with the diseased part rotting and smelling foul. When disease occurs on leaves, the diseased part is yellowish-brown, and white mold grows under humid conditions. When disease occurs on stems, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and soft, and later the upper part shows wilting. This disease can harm the entire palm plant. Sometimes purulent liquid exudes when the root system and stem are cut open, and in severe cases the edges of the veins of young leaves carry large amounts of grayish-black mycelium. Phytophthora disease is a vascular bundle disease, and in severe cases the entire plant wilts, droops, dries up, and eventually dies, with a high mortality rate.

According to surveys, the peak period of this disease is mostly the high-temperature and high-humidity period, that is, the optimum temperature is 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the disease period in the coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was July to October, in Xiamen August to November, in Shanghai June to September (also occurring in early spring), and in the mountainous areas of western Pearl River Delta August to November, but in all places the disease could be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically and sometimes appearing in patches.

Control methods

I. Preventive cultivation measures

1. Pay attention to ventilation, dryness, and drainage in the nursery. Leaves can be moderately pruned each autumn and winter, and trenches can be opened and soil mounded at the planting site to keep the nursery site dry. Usually, potassium fertilizer can be applied additionally, and quicklime and superphosphate can also be applied separately, to enhance the density of plant tissues and resistance to infection, and improve the disease resistance of plants.

2. Choose a good plot, and select loam or sandy loam land with high terrain and good drainage for planting.

3. Implement crop rotation, and require crop rotation of more than three to four years on land where Washington palm has been planted.

4. Strengthen field management, apply more organic fertilizer, promote robust plant growth with deep roots and lush leaves, and improve resistance. Implement high-ridge (bed) cultivation. Appropriately control watering during the rainy season, drain water promptly after rain so that the ground dries after rain; water promptly in drought, and strictly prohibit flood irrigation when watering, and carry out watering in the sunny afternoon or evening.

5. Achieve prevention first and integrated control. Observe regularly, often prune dead branches and fallen leaves, remove diseased plants promptly when found, bury them deeply or burn them, and disinfect diseased holes with lime.

II. Chemical control

One to two months before disease onset in summer and during the disease period, use 64% Sandofan wettable powder (1:500 to 600), 80% fosetyl-aluminum (1:400), or other hymexazol-type products such as Kameitong, also known as soil fungicide (usual dosage 600 to 700 times), lime-sulfur mixture (1:1:100), dexon (500 times), etc. for control. Specific control methods: when transplanting Washington palm, first spray the planting site and Washington palm roots with 600 to 700 times soil fungicide solution, or first dig pits and expose them to the sun for sterilization during consecutive sunny days, or spread lime powder for disinfection, or use 500 times dexon solution for soil disinfection.

After a typhoon, promptly spray Sandofan (better) or fosetyl-aluminum (prone to resistance), add 0.4% washing powder, and pour into the heart or spray for both prevention and treatment. You can also spray 700 times 80% mancozeb solution once every 7 to 10 days, for two to three consecutive sprays, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of Phytophthora disease. After adopting this measure, the incidence rate of Washington palm and Washington palm 'Robusta' at the Shanghai base of Guangdong Palm Landscape Company dropped from 20% in 2004 to below 10%.

Control experience

The control effect of using carbendazim and similar products is not obvious. If all leaves are cut off in the early stage of disease and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can gradually revive after 2 to 3 years, but the growth is poor.

It is understood that this disease rarely occurs in high-temperature and dry areas such as Los Angeles, so this disease is related to high temperature and humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater, and rainwater. When the plant root system, trunk, leaves, etc. are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies in large numbers when water is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular conducting tissue, and the plant dies from water loss and wilting. The heart rot disease introduced in some literature is actually also Phytophthora disease, only occurring at the central spear leaf part.

This disease is different from anthracnose, which occurs on leaves, with small water-soaked spots appearing at onset and then expanding into larger lesions, and is easy to find; it is generally controllable with agents such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to disease occurring on leaves, and common pathogens include Phyllosticta and Pestalotiopsis, etc., often causing leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting techniques for large single-trunk seedlings

Preparation before transplanting

1. Root pruning should be carried out in advance on the seedlings to be transplanted. After root pruning, the soil ball size should be twice the ground diameter, and the root pruning depth should be 50 cm to 60 cm. After root pruning, stones and broken roots should be removed from the soil and it should be backfilled promptly, and moisture should be maintained: the purpose is to exercise the adaptability of the seedlings and encourage new roots. After root pruning, it is best to keep them for more than 30 days, and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If heeled-in seedlings are used, the effect is even better.

2. Dig holes and prepare the ground. The planting site should have holes dug 20 days before transplanting, and the hole specification is generally 1.5 times the soil ball. The soil from digging the holes should be exposed to the open air and sun for a period, and the backfill soil is best a pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + an appropriate amount of decomposed phosphate fertilizer + an appropriate amount of river sand, with sand:soil at 4:6.

Planting time

In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done throughout the year, with spring and autumn being best, and summer and winter should be avoided as much as possible, especially January and July. Most palm family plants like warmth and humidity. In summer the temperature is high, seedlings evaporate water quickly, and it is easy to cause excessive water loss and affect survival; in winter the temperature is low, some places even have frost, and strong north winds can easily cause frost injury or even death of seedlings.

Transplanting seedlings

Some large single-trunk palm family seedlings have relatively thick stems, the workload of transplanting seedlings is large, and the seedlings are very easily injured. Therefore, when transplanting seedlings, the trunk should be wrapped with gunny bags or rice straw, especially the green wrapped trunk portion at the boundary between the trunk and the petiole. First, it protects the trunk; second, it maintains moisture and prevents sunburn. In addition, when lifting seedlings, combine with leaf pruning, remove old leaves, and retain 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically depending on tree vigor). At the same time, cut off 1/5 of the leaves together with the petioles, to minimize water evaporation.

Planting

It is best to plant seedlings on the same day they are dug; if the time is too long, the seedlings evaporate a lot of water and are prone to water loss affecting survival. If they cannot all be planted the same day, they should be covered with shade netting and a small amount of water sprayed on the leaf surface every day, with good shading and moisture retention.

1. Backfilling soil After the seedling is positioned, backfill soil immediately. When the backfill reaches half the height of the soil ball, first compact the loose soil. After backfilling is complete, shape the soil mound into a "water storage basin" that is slightly higher around the edges and slightly lower in the middle, to facilitate watering and moisture retention.

2. Watering After backfilling, immediately water thoroughly to settle the roots. Before watering, first use bamboo poles, etc. to poke and firm the loose soil around the soil ball until the loose soil no longer sinks.

3. Fixing There are many kinds of supports; using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical one. The tying height is at 2/3 of the trunk.

Post-planting management

1. Moisture retention Spray the leaves and trunk wrapping twice a day, except on rainy days, to the extent of wetting the leaves and trunk wrapping. Do not water the roots, because excess water will flow downward, and accumulated water can cause root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with rice straw for sun protection, to prevent excessive soil temperature differences from causing soil compaction, and to keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist, and aerated, which helps new roots sprout.

2. Wind protection Because transplanted large single-trunk palm plants are generally tall and are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds after transplanting, the supports should be checked regularly after planting to see whether they have loosened. Especially after strong winds, if the trunk is found to be leaning, it should be straightened and tied promptly.

3. Topdressing About one month after planting, urea water can be used for foliar topdressing by spraying, with topdressing about once every half month. After the first new leaf grows and matures, use fully decomposed peanut cake for hole fertilization. Dig the holes by opening a ring-shaped trench outside the edge of the soil ball, with trench width and depth each 30 cm, and the fertilizer must be mixed evenly with the backfill soil.

4. Pest and disease control Newly transplanted large single-trunk palm seedlings are very susceptible to pests and diseases because their tree vigor is relatively weak, especially tender leaves and central spear leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" is quite serious in its damage to palm family plants. Adults and larvae concentrate in the overlapping spaces of unexpanded central spear leaves and gnaw the leaf flesh, causing some or all of the newly emerged leaves to die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. The control methods include the following: ① 81% malathion emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times; ② cypermethrin 500 times; ③ use "Yejiaqing", all of which can achieve good control effects. Based on practical operation, the author believes that the simplest, most convenient, and long-lasting method is to hang a packet of "Yejiaqing" on the central spear leaf during planting in combination with tying.

For large single-trunk palm seedlings, about one month after planting, whether they have survived can be roughly determined based on whether the leaves remain green, but to truly determine survival, one generally must wait until after one growing season and use whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author adopted the above transplanting techniques in construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to more than 90%, and the above techniques are highly practical and worthy of promotion and application.

Transplanting techniques for seedlings, large trees, and clustered seedlings

Key techniques for transplanting seedlings

Palm plants are most suitable for transplanting during a period after germination and rooting. At this time the seedlings are smaller, can be transplanted with seeds, and because there are few fibrous roots, the root system is not easily damaged during transplanting. Use nutrition bags for seedling cultivation, with size depending on the time for cultivating the seedlings; generally speaking, 1-year-old seedlings are suitable with 16 cm × 18 cm containers, and 2-year-old seedlings with 19 cm × 20 cm. Nutrition bags that are too small are not conducive to rapid seedling growth. Prepare nutrition soil by using loose topsoil, burnt soil, and wheat bran, mixing them uniformly in a 5:2:1 ratio with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, then bagging. First fill half a bag with mixed soil, then place the seedling, then straighten the seedling and fill the bag full and compact it, so that the seedling root system and the mixed soil are pressed closely together, and then water thoroughly. Palm plants cannot be planted too deep, otherwise it will affect seedling growth. If too deep, the seedling should be lifted upward so that the seedling root system spreads out.

Key techniques for transplanting large trees

Palm family plants are cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years, and most require several rounds of bed transplanting, so selecting widely spaced strong seedlings gives a higher survival rate.

Reduce damage to the root mass. Palm plant root tissue is tender, with many lateral roots and capillary roots. When digging, carry as large a soil ball as possible and prevent it from loosening and cracking. Minimize the degree of root mass damage so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption capacity and improve transplanting survival rate. During construction, lines should be laid and holes set accurately to avoid rework and prevent the soil ball from loosening.

Leaf pruning. The amount of leaves retained during transplanting should be comprehensively determined according to different species, the climate at transplanting time, and transplanting and maintenance conditions.

Generally, about 40% of the original number of leaves should be retained. Retaining too many leaves will cause the leaves to turn yellow due to high water evaporation; retaining too few leaves makes plant recovery difficult and the cycle long, and the initial landscape effect is also poor.

Protect the plant trunk and its pseudostem. During digging, transporting, loading, and unloading of the plant, the trunk should be protected from damage, and the pseudostem part should not be squeezed or bent. This is the guarantee of plant health and rapid recovery.

Soil at the new planting site. Palm family plants damage their root tips during transplanting, and it is difficult for new root tips to sprout within one month after transplanting, so water absorption capacity is weak. At this time, good soil permeability and aeration are conducive to seedling survival, so when planting, large holes should be dug and attention paid to the quality of imported soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer to facilitate recovery after planting.

Maintenance. Within one month after planting, the plant has poor adaptability, and the seedlings should be carefully maintained, with timely water supplementation and appropriate shading, striving to have new leaves sprout within three months. If continuous rainy weather occurs after transplanting, palm seedlings recover better, because rainy days can avoid adverse factors such as scorching sun exposure.

Key techniques for transplanting large clustered seedlings

Clustered palm family species have multiple growth points, and after growing into a multi-stem clustered state, they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. However, clustered palms also have disadvantages such as heavy trunks, large leaf area causing high water evaporation, and poor wind permeability making them susceptible to strong wind damage. Therefore, in addition to the measures for transplanting single-trunk palms, the following technical measures should be added:

1. Implement the "hairy root method" transplanting, that is, after digging a relatively large soil ball, use a small shovel to remove part of the soil along the outer edge of the soil ball, retain more fibrous roots and a moderate soil ball, and then immediately wrap it with lightweight moisture-retaining material, to reduce the weight of the soil ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting clustered palms that recover relatively slowly, such as fishtail palm and three-stamen areca.

2. Implement bare-root heel-in or pot planting, concentrating maintenance until new roots sprout and the plant stabilizes before formal planting. This method is suitable for robust clustered palms such as areca palm, Ptychosperma paradoxum, and Hawaiian coconut, and can reduce transport costs and facilitate construction.

In short, for the transplanting of large seedlings and large trees of palm family plants, in brief, five aspects should be handled well, namely: selecting strong seedlings; digging good soil balls and careful transport; moderate leaf pruning; good aeration and drainage at the planting site; and good post-planting maintenance for sun protection and moisture retention. The sign for judging the success of large seedling and large tree transplanting is being able to retain most leaves and sprout new leaves within half a year after planting, among which sprouting three healthy new leaves is complete transplanting success

Drainage: first understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site, and as far as possible place the very bottom of the soil ball at a position 100-150CM above the year-round groundwater level of the planting site and with deep, fertile soil, and at the same time establish a drainage layer for the soil ball root system underground and a surface runoff guidance network to prevent water accumulation in the soil ball after planting; if the hydrological conditions cannot meet the requirements, the method of planting with a raised soil ball can be used, that is, first pile up the planting site with loose media mixed with fertile soil or coarse sand, as far as possible to meet the above requirements, then place the plant on the soil pile, and bury the soil ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus soil; remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately improve the soil with loose media, so as to achieve loose and breathable conditions for the plant roots; strengthen inspections during the rainy season, promptly clear drainage facilities and appropriately loosen the soil around the roots, so as to prevent waterlogging and drain accumulated water. Moisture retention: after planting, immediately water once to settle the roots, ensuring that the soil ball roots are moist and closely combined with the surrounding soil, promoting root development, then water thoroughly three more times and promptly cover the soil ball to prevent surface soil cracking. In hot summer, more water should be sprayed on the ground and tree crown to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration; leaf moisture retention treatment includes a. newly planted seedlings should have leaves appropriately pruned to reduce the transpiration area of the leaves; b. appropriately spray antitranspirants on the leaves to inhibit plant physiological metabolism and reduce physiological water loss; c. under sunny weather conditions, spray atomized water on the leaves as much as possible to strengthen leaf water absorption and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the soil ball and roots at any time and replenish water promptly to ensure the moisture of the soil ball and the permeability of root respiration. Fertilization: in addition to maintaining moisture for the plant after planting, appropriately spray low-concentration foliar fertilizer to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation; frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant. If new roots are found to have grown, consider increasing root fertilization, generally choosing the season when the monthly average temperature is higher than 20°C, applying mainly organic fertilizer as much as possible, and appropriately adding compound fertilizer with high P and K content, to promote balanced plant nutrition and ensure rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: spray chemicals to control pests and diseases before the seedlings leave the nursery, and after arriving at the site, the plants also need to be sprayed for pest and disease control before unloading, and ensure three consecutive chemical applications at intervals of one week to ten days within one month after planting, and then a pest and disease control plan also needs to be reasonably formulated. Special

Chapter Nine: "Maintenance Plan"

Landscaping of Sidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd.

Mainte-

nance

Pla-

n

Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.

October 8, 2010

Project overview

"Sidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, with a factory green space area of 28,186 sq m. The landscaping plant configuration in the factory area is relatively reasonable, rich in color, and with obvious seasonal changes, forming a plant community with distinct layers and natural ecology, basically displaying the natural landscape of plants. The configuration of plant flowering shrubs and hedges between the factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. Dozens of plant varieties such as camphor, southern magnolia, zelkova, osmanthus, and crape myrtle have been planted in the factory area, among which there is a tree-lined avenue composed of large-specification camphor, and scenic spots at the gatehouse composed of varieties such as ancient red maple, pomegranate, Malus spectabilis, ginkgo, and Canary Island date palm.

In view of the existing situation of the factory area landscaping landscape, we believe that the initial landscaping construction was relatively extensive, and the understanding of plant habits was insufficient, especially the replacement of planting soil in the green space was not in place, and the garbage soil in some areas was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.

Landscaping maintenance schedule

January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)

1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.

2. Often pay attention to checking cold protection equipment, facilities, and seedling cold protection wrappings.

3. Plow the ground for winter cultivation and apply sufficient winter fertilizer.

4. Cut off dead, residual, diseased, and pest branches and leaves, thoroughly remove overwintering bagworm cases, slug moth cocoons, and lurking overwintering pests.

February (Start of Spring, Rain Water)

1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.

2. Continue cutting off diseased and pest branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, giant mealybug, etc.).

3. Continue accumulating fertilizer and making compost, preparing culture soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)

The weather gradually warms, and many pests and diseases are about to occur. Maintain and repair various insect and disease control equipment and prepare medicines. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and giant mealybugs, and achieve timely control. April (Pure Brightness, Grain Rain)

1. Do a good job in the control of pests such as scale insects, mites, cutworms, white grubs, and mole crickets, as well as powdery mildew and rust disease.

2. Do a good job in loosening soil, weeding, and pre-flowering fertilization. Apply light fertilizer to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers once a week.

3. Do a good job in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess tender buds and improperly positioned branches at any time.

4. Clear and repair the drainage system.

May (Start of Summer, Grain Full)

1. Carry out post-flowering pruning and hedge pruning for shrubs that bloom in spring. According to technical operation requirements, carry out bud removal and pruning of trees, and prune and remove root sprouts of small seedlings at any time.

2. Continue to strengthen tree maintenance and management, do a good job in filling gaps, thinning, and final singling of seedlings, apply additional topdressing, and frequently apply light fertilizer.

3. This month the temperature gradually rises, and pests and diseases greatly harm trees and flowers. Attention should be paid to pest forecasting and doing a good job in pest and disease prevention.

4. Carry out lawn mowing and continue removing weeds from the lawn.

June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)

1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperature and high humidity, so replanting should be carried out promptly.

2. Carry out post-flowering pruning and fertilization for flowering shrubs, and pinch and prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Continue removing weeds and continue mowing.

4. Do a good job in pest and disease control. This month focus on controlling pests such as bagworms, slug moths, tussock moths, inchworms, and tortoise wax scales, as well as leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold.

July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)

1. This month the weather is hot and weeds grow quickly. Continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Pests such as bagworms, slug moths, longhorn beetles, tortoise wax scales, armored scales, second-generation cottony cushion scale, and mites occur in large numbers. Attention should be paid to control, and at the same time continue to control anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, etc.

3. During the dog days the temperature is high, and when there is little rain, irrigation is needed for drought resistance. This month is also a month with more rainstorms, so attention should be paid to waterlogging prevention.

4. This month enters the typhoon and tidal flood season, so typhoon and flood prevention work should be done well, with frequent inspections and timely straightening of wind-thrown trees.

August (Start of Autumn, End of Heat)

1. Continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Continue doing a good job in drought prevention and drainage to ensure normal seedling growth.

3. This month the seedlings grow vigorously, so topdressing should be applied promptly, and for small seedlings, light fertilizer should be applied frequently.

4. Continue doing a good job in typhoon and flood prevention, and straighten wind-thrown trees promptly when found.

5. Continue doing a good job in pest and disease control, and conscientiously control the main pests harming trees (bagworms, second-generation slug moths, longhorn beetles, mites, etc.) and main diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, etc.).

September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)

1. Continue to do a good job in pest elimination and disease control; in particular, frequently check the occurrence of aphids, wood boring moths, etc., and once found, control immediately.

2. Continue intertillage and weeding, continue removing lawn weeds, carry out lawn mowing, and carry out shaping and pruning of topiary and hedges.

3. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control. In particular, check the pest and disease situations such as aphids, bagworms, slug moths, brown spot disease, and sooty mold of flowering shrubs, which occur relatively often, and control them promptly.

October (Cold Dew, Frost's Descent)

1. Do a good job in pest and disease control, and eliminate various adults and eggs.

2. Continue intertillage and weeding.

3. After seedlings stop growing, check the survival rate, clarify the inventory, and ensure the smooth progress of winter and spring landscaping work.

November (Start of Winter, Minor Snow)

1. Do a good job in cold protection, whitewash some trees, or wrap them with straw rope.

2. Carry out winter tree pruning, cut off diseased branches and dead branches; branches with eggs and competitive branches, excessive