Camellia bonsai: cultivation methods and key steps

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Camellia, also called camellia flower, with the ancient name sea pomegranate, is a traditional ornamental flower of China, ranked seventh among the "Ten Famous Flowers," and is also one of the world's precious flowering trees. Nowadays, bonsai camellia has become one of the main ways of growing camellias at home. Many flower enthusiasts do not fully understand the cultivation methods for bonsai camellia. Below, the editor will explain the key steps of bonsai camellia cultivation.

Key steps of bonsai camellia cultivation:

(1) Potting up

Remove the original soil from the small seedling in its nutrient pot, soak it in a water basin, and let the white roots become exposed.

(2) Check whether the new seedling has pests or diseases

After potting up, spray once with a pesticide. After the first thorough watering, water slowly once more, which helps the new and old media mix.

(3) Apply compound organic fertilizer

Mix in some bone meal as phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, apply ferrous sulfate monthly, and apply quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer before the bud stage.

(4) Light

For most of the year it can receive full light; in summer it needs partial shading.

(5) Watering

If the leaves droop, move the plant to a cool, shaded place, spray with an antifungal medication, and do not water too much.

(6) Controlling scale insects and red spider mites

Scale insects can be controlled by spraying insecticide on the leaves, and red spider mites can be killed by spraying dimethoate or dichlorvos.

(7) Handling during the flowering period

Cut off half of the leaf bud next to the flower bud and apply a small amount of 0.1% gibberellin to the cut end; this can increase the flower diameter.

(8) Bud thinning

For cuttings within two years, do not keep a single flower bud. For four-year-old seedlings, keep one bud every other branch, and on strong branches keep the topmost bud.

(9) Pruning

For an overly leggy plant shape, cutting off a section of length can promote branching.

The above is the key steps for bonsai camellia cultivation compiled by the editor of Huinong Network. Have you learned them all? The cultivation method for bonsai camellia is relatively simple. Flower enthusiasts should pay more attention to care when growing bonsai camellia, thereby increasing its ornamental value.

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions (9 articles in total)

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, Part One
"Cultivation Methods for Camellia"

The camellia root system depends on the soil for growth and development, and the water and nutrients needed for the camellia's life activities are mainly absorbed from the soil. Camellia likes slightly acidic, humus-rich, loose and airy mountain red (yellow) soil, with a pH value between 5 and 6.5. Alkaline soil or heavily clayey soil must not be used as the potting substrate for camellia. Soil preparation: 50% mountain soil (cultivated red loam used for crops), 40% sawdust or edible mushroom residue, 10% cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphate fertilizer powder. Mix the three evenly, add an appropriate amount of water, bag it and let it mature. In summer and autumn, 20 days or more; in spring and winter, 30 days or more. This kind of soil is not only loose and airy but also retains fertilizer and water, making it suitable for camellia growth and development.

2. Camellia needs suitable light, but it is also afraid of high temperatures and direct scorching sun. In spring and at the end of autumn, move the camellia to a sunny balcony or the ground to receive all-day sunlight, prompting the plant to grow and develop, prompting flower bud differentiation, and making the flower buds robust. When summer arrives and the sunlight is strongest, move the pot to a shaded, sunny-avoiding, well-ventilated environment for care.

3. Temperature is one of the important conditions for camellia growth. Camellia likes warmth, and the most suitable temperature for growth is 18°C to 25°C, with relative humidity of 60% to 65%. In camellia growth, spring shoots generally begin to stir in mid-to-late March, sprout in April, form terminal buds in mid-to-late May, stop growing, and gradually differentiate into leaf buds or flower buds. From flower bud formation to flowering takes 180 days to 240 days.

4. Camellia has many leaves and a large leaf area, so transpiration is fast. Camellia likes a relatively humid climate and also likes moist soil. Therefore, potted camellia must be given sufficient water. During the spring and autumn growing seasons, water once a day. In summer, especially during the "three fu" period, water once each morning and evening. If the ground is dry, also water or spray the ground around the pot and the surrounding area once to twice to maintain a certain air humidity, and the plant will grow luxuriantly. At the same time, note that because of frequent watering, and because most households use tap water, over time the soil in the pot will become alkalized. For this reason, when watering, supplement monthly with 0.5% to 1% ferrous sulfate solution, or use 5% to 8% edible vinegar solution to spray the leaves. Camellia likes moist soil but is also afraid of water accumulating in the pot. On rainy days, if water accumulates in the pot, it must be drained promptly to avoid the root system being soaked in water, suffocating, and rotting.

5. Camellia is a fertilizer-loving flower. Because the tree is robust, has many leaves, and has a long flowering period, it also needs a large amount of fertilizer. During fertilization, apply sufficient liquid fertilizer, and combine repotting with sufficient long-acting fertilizer. According to pot size, apply 3 grams to 80 grams of decomposed cake fertilizer powder or dried chicken and duck manure per pot, place it at the bottom of the pot and mix it evenly with the bottom soil. According to the plant's growth stage, add organic fertilizer. Except during the coldest winter and hottest summer, apply decomposed cake meal water once to twice a month. Fertilization method: scrape open the soil at the edge of the pot about 2 fen, pour the liquid fertilizer into the trench, and immediately cover it with soil to avoid odors. You can also apply decomposed cake fertilizer powder at the pot edge and mix it evenly with the potting soil, allowing the flowers to absorb it slowly. Urban flower enthusiasts can buy special flower fertilizer at flower markets, which is both hygienic and safe. To make camellia grow better, during the peak growth period of camellia, carry out foliar fertilization once to twice a month, spraying the leaves with 0.2% to 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 1% to 2% plant growth hormone. Fertilization principles: prefer light over heavy, prefer dilute over concentrated, prefer less over more, and must adhere to the method of frequent application of thin fertilizer, especially do not apply raw fertilizer.

6. In winter, camellia should be kept in a wind-sheltered, sunny environment with a certain amount of temperature and humidity. Years of practice have shown that moderate ventilation and suitable light can help prevent pests and diseases.

Main pests and diseases of "camellia" and their control

[Control methods]

① During the peak occurrence of aphids, spray camellia plants with 50% phosphamidon emulsion at 2,000 times dilution or 50% dimethoate emulsion at 1,000 times dilution

, spraying once every 3 to 5 days for 3 consecutive times, which can wipe out the aphids. ② Soak 0.5 kg of tobacco stems and 0.25 kg of quicklime in 10 to 15 liters of water for a day and a night, filter out the residue, and use it for spray control; the result is good.

Scale insects

[Habits and risks] Risks: There are many kinds of scale insects on camellia, with the serious ones being the cottony cushion scale, red wax scale, and chaff scale. Scale insects lay a large number of eggs; each female can lay up to about a thousand eggs, and there are 3 to 5 generations per year. Most overwinter as fertilized females on branches and leaves, and begin laying eggs and causing damage from March of the following year, mostly gathering on tender branches and leaves to suck sap. Damaged leaves change from green to grayish green and finally to yellow. In severe cases, the branches and leaves are covered with scale insects, causing the whole plant to wither and die. Their exudate

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, Part Two
"Precautions for Camellia Cutting Propagation"

People in Taiwan, China, all use cutting propagation to cultivate potted camellia, while grafting propagation is mainly used to make camellia bonsai. He Quanyi, a large-scale camellia grower, introduced that people in Taiwan, China, regardless of variety, as long as the flowers bloom well and the plants grow robustly, can sell for a good price. He inserts more than 300,000 camellia seedlings every year, with an 80% survival rate, and earns more than 1 million New Taiwan dollars each year. In recent years, however, when propagating camellia domestically, grafting is mostly used, and cutting propagation has gradually become marginalized. The author believes that camellia cutting propagation should be taken seriously.

I. Advantages of cutting propagation 1. Raising seedlings by cuttings can maintain the inherent traits of superior varieties, so that the propagated offspring will not be mixed, and the superior traits of the variety will not change. A cutting seedling comes from an individual part of the same camellia mother plant, and its genetic traits are the same as the mother plant. Therefore, camellia cutting propagation can reflect the heredity of the mother plant and maintain the traits and characteristics of superior camellia varieties. In particular, there are many precious varieties of camellia, such as 'Yuanyang Fengguan' and 'Lüzhuqiu', which have no stamens or pistils and cannot be pollinated to set seed, so they can only be propagated through cuttings.

2. It can accelerate the propagation of superior camellia varieties and allow superior varieties to be promoted quickly. The cuttings used for camellia cutting propagation are very short; one branch can be cut into several cuttings, saving propagation material. The cutting season is long, the sources of cuttings are wide, seedlings can be used to raise seedlings, and the propagation coefficient is high. One adult camellia plant can have an annual propagation coefficient exceeding 1,000 times. Some shrub-type varieties with dense branching and small leaves can reach more than 2,000 times. For some precious and rare camellia varieties, if methods such as approach grafting, air layering, or seeds are used, they cannot meet the need for accelerated propagation. Using cuttings to raise seedlings can quickly propagate these precious and rare varieties.

3. Camellia cutting seedlings have a long lifespan, are convenient to manage, and are cheap. They are suitable for household potting, are the most ideal individual camellia plants, and are very popular among camellia enthusiasts. Jinhua, Zhejiang used to insert tens of millions of cutting seedlings every year. Usually each camellia nursery inserts tens of thousands of seedlings, and the largest can reach more than 100,000. After autumn, camellia marketers from all over the country drive large trucks to each household to select fine-variety cutting seedlings. These seedlings cost a few jiao each, and some even a few fen each. They are cheap, convenient to transport, and numerous, making it easy to earn big money. The market potential for cutting rootstock seedlings is also very large; the rootstocks used for grafting are also tree stumps grown from cutting seedlings. Now everyone is doing grafting, rootstocks are in short supply, and prices are getting more and more expensive.

II. Grafting time

Camellia cuttings can be taken throughout the year. There are two suitable periods: one is from late May to early July, and the other is from late August to late September, with mid-to-late June and late August to early September being the best. Because camellia cutting propagation is softwood cutting, using new branches of the current year as cuttings, one must wait until the new branches are semi-lignified or mature but not yet aged before proceeding, so as to achieve a higher survival rate. If the branches are too tender, soon after cutting the leaf stalks will turn black, and then the leaves will fall off, making success very difficult; if the branches are too old, the meristematic function and regeneration ability decline, and rooting is not easy. Therefore, cutting earlier than late May or later than after September is unsuitable. Earlier than late May, except in southern regions with relatively high winter temperatures and earlier shoot emergence, the spring shoots are too tender; later than after September, the spring shoots are too old. Even if summer and autumn shoots can be used, their energy is insufficient, and healing of the cut and growth are relatively difficult. Unless special management is applied, it is hard to achieve good results. The reason mid-to-late June to early September is the best period is that at this time the new branches are already semi-lignified or close to fully lignified, and in terms of energy they can fully meet the needs for healing and rooting; especially in mid-to-late June, when it is the plum rain period, the relative air humidity is high, and water transpiration from the cutting's branches and leaves is low, making it especially suitable for cuttings. In short, the cutting period should be selected according to the local most suitable cutting season, the source of cuttings, and the cutting task you need to complete. If there are many varieties and a large quantity to be cut, it can be done in all three seasons: spring, summer, and autumn. For autumn cutting, because branches are retained after summer cutting, it is often not until after mid-October that cuttings can be clipped, and after cutting

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, Part Three
"Thesis: Cultivation Methods for Camellia"

Thesis title: Cultivation Methods for Camellia Student name:

Major:

Class:

Student ID:

Grade:

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, Part Four
"The Complete Guide to Camellia Cultivation"

Other loose, fertile mountain soil and sandy soil can be used; alkaline and calcareous soil are taboo. The cultivation medium is commonly prepared by mixing 6 parts red loam, 3 parts leaf mold, and 1 part fine river mud, or by mixing 5 parts leaf mold, 4 parts vegetable garden soil, and 1 part river sand. The pot size should be moderate. The pot size for potted camellia should be moderate. Generally, the ratio of pot to plant is: a camellia 40 to 50 cm tall with a crown width of 20 to 25 cm is suitable for planting in a purple clay pot or earthen pot with a diameter of about 20 cm.

Potting up should be timely. The potting time should be determined according to the camellia variety, generally November in winter and February to March in early spring. At this time the flower buds are plump and the flowers are beginning to open, making it most suitable for potting up. Remember not to pot up when the flowers are fading, and also avoid potting up in high temperatures and severe winter, so as to avoid causing the plant to wilt and die. After potting up, the first watering should be sufficient, with water flowing out from the bottom of the pot as the standard.

Temperature and light should be suitable. Camellia is shade-tolerant and likes a warm, humid environment. The most suitable growth temperature is 20°C to 25°C, and the most suitable flowering temperature is 10°C to 20°C. When the temperature rises above 22°C, the flowers often drop. After potted camellia is moved outdoors in mid-April, place it in a ventilated, light-transmitting place. From mid-May, begin maintenance under a shade frame, generally using shade netting. The light transmission rate is 50%% in spring and autumn and 60%% in summer. On cloudy days, open the shade netting to increase light.

Frequent application of thin fertilizer is the principle. Camellia relatively likes fertilizer, but avoids heavy and concentrated fertilizer. In cultivation management, the principle is frequent application of thin fertilizer. From April to May, when camellia leaf buds stir and grow branches and leaves, apply nitrogen-based decomposed liquid fertilizer 3 to 4 times, about once every other week. Fertilizers can include decomposed soybean cake, peanut cake, sauce residue, and so on. In June to July, when camellia flower buds differentiate, apply a mixed nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer. Phosphorus fertilizer can use fishy water, decomposed chicken and duck manure, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate. Keep the concentration at about 20%%. Avoid applying too much nitrogen fertilizer. Fertilizer is not suitable in August. From September to November, during the flower bud stage, also use mixed fertilizer, applying once a month, with a concentration of 15%% to 20%%, but mainly phosphorus fertilizer supplemented by nitrogen fertilizer to prevent bud drop. At the end of November, add one application of decomposed fishy water and chicken and duck manure liquid fertilizer, which can make the flowers larger and the color brighter. Generally stop fertilizing during the flowering period.

Disease and pest control should be timely. The main pests and diseases of camellia include scale insects, red spider mites, brown spot disease, anthracnose, and so on. Red spider mites and scale insects can be killed by spraying 40%% omethoate at 1,000 times dilution, or 25%% phosmet at 800 to 1,000 times dilution, spraying once every other week for 2 to 3 consecutive times; brown spot disease and anthracnose can be controlled with 40%% amobam at 800 times dilution or 30%% carbendazim at 500 times dilution.

Comments|1091

2013-04-03 15:36 Enthusiastic netizen

Key management points for potted camellia cultivation methods: 1. The ratio of pot size to seedling should be appropriate. For the potting soil, it is best to add 1/2 to 1/3 cut pine needles to garden soil, and apply it after 1 year of rotting; the effect is good. 2. The potting time is November in winter or February to March in early spring. Stop potting near the bud sprouting stage, and never pot up in high-temperature seasons. 3. When newly potting a seedling, water thoroughly, with water seeping through the bottom of the pot as the standard. Usually water in moderation.

Watering amount for potted camellia cultivation methods: The watering amount should change with the seasons. Around Qingming, the plant enters the growth and sprouting stage, and the water amount should gradually increase. After the new shoots stop growing (around late May), watering should be properly controlled to promote flower bud differentiation. June is the plum rain season, so guard against water accumulation. If signs of water accumulation are found, promptly tilt the pot surface and let it flow away; otherwise it easily causes new root rot, leading to the whole plant "green withering" and dying. In the high-temperature summer season, leaf surface evaporation is large. For varieties with thin leaves,

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, Part Five
"Precautions for Camellia"

Nitrogen-based fertilizer: this is the habitual thinking and practice of quite a few camellia enthusiasts. They believe that this can provide sufficient nutrition for camellia, and only then can camellia vegetative growth flourish. In the author's view, people who hold this view are not saying that applying nitrogen fertilizer is wrong, but that the timing of fertilization is inappropriate. In fact, the correct timing for fertilization should be the period when the camellia mass flowering period is nearly over and the new buds have not yet stirred. Because flowering consumes most of the plant's nutrients, sprouting new buds also requires a certain accumulation of nutrients, and at this time new roots are about to grow, so fertilizing at this time is just right. It not only replenishes the consumption from flowering but also provides a guarantee for the sprouting and growth of new buds; another relatively important point is that camellia generally does not go dormant after flowering, and some varieties directly send out shoots and sprout leaves after flowering. So using the phrase "sending charcoal in snowy weather" to describe fertilizing at this time is most apt. Fertilization is not suitable in the early sprouting stage, because the newly grown young fleshy fibrous roots cannot withstand even the irrigation of light fertilizer, let alone that inexperienced growers also find it hard to correctly grasp the fertilization concentration, and a little carelessness easily burns the roots. The beautiful wish to supplement fertilizer for the plant backfires because the fertilization timing is wrong. Therefore, fertilization during the spring sprouting period must be timed correctly so that the plant can grow normally.

II. Avoid applying concentrated fertilizer during the leaf expansion period: Applying concentrated fertilizer during the leaf expansion period and the improper fertilization in the early sprouting stage mentioned above seem contradictory, but actually they are not. Here the author mainly means two things: first, after this fertilization when the camellia spring mass flowering period is near its end and the new buds have not yet stirred, the next fertilization is best done after the new leaves have unfolded and then some time has passed, generally 10 to 15 days, specifically applying one to two more nitrogen-based fertilizers before the new leaves finish growing. When applying, the concentration should be light. On the second day after application

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, Part Six
"Camellia Cultivation Techniques"

Acidic: Camellia has strict soil requirements and must be cultivated in acidic soil with a pH value less than 6.5. Pine leaf humus soil is better for potting soil, and other loose, fertile mountain soil and sandy soil can also be used; alkaline and calcareous soil are taboo. The cultivation medium is commonly prepared by mixing 6 parts red loam, 3 parts leaf mold, and 1 part fine river mud, or by mixing 5 parts leaf mold, 4 parts vegetable garden soil, and 1 part river sand.

The pot size should be moderate. The pot size for potted camellia should be moderate. Generally, the ratio of pot to plant is: a camellia 40 to 50 cm tall with a crown width of 20 to 25 cm is suitable for planting in a purple clay pot or earthen pot with a diameter of about 20 cm.

Comments|730

2013-04-03 15:36 Enthusiastic netizen

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, Part Seven
"Key Points for Camellia Cultivation"

growth habits and dormancy habits. When should fertilizer be applied and how much? Appropriate supplementary materials help camellia growth. Too much nutrients can also cause camellia leaves to begin turning yellow, the roots to begin rotting, and eventually it becomes like a toothpick. When you begin to notice leaves starting to fall, you should pay attention. Wash the camellia roots clean with clear water and cut off the blackened roots. Then replace with fresh red soil, and in future care just pay attention to camellia management. Camellia should be fertilized before May and after August. In summer, camellia should be in its growth dormancy period. During this process camellia has basically stopped growing. Fertilization is basically not recommended. But it can be consolidated. After summer rain, fertilizer can be applied to consolidate the camellia. The consolidation in these processes will show its effect after the camellia finishes flowering. After camellia finishes flowering, it begins to send out new buds. This budding period and growth period are basically in early April. During this period, special attention should be paid to the supply of fertilizer for camellia. The supply during this period affects the growth of the camellia plant and the size of the camellia flowers. The number of flower buds affects the growth of the entire plant. If there are too many flower buds, too many flowers bloom, and the entire plant's energy is basically exhausted in the flowering process. Experienced camellia growers know that the buds sent out by such plants during the budding period are very short and small. Compared with strong plants of the same kind, they are obviously weaker. Blooming too much once is equal to asking for three years of its lifespan; obviously, flowers with too many buds in the first year will bloom very small flowers in the following years. This energy has already been dissipated. To ensure good flowers can be seen every year, start thinning buds when obvious flower buds can be seen on the camellia. Keep a small number of flower buds and give appropriate nutrients, and the flowers that bloom are very large.

Winter is also the camellia's second dormancy period, and the camellia has already stopped growing. At this time the camellia's flower buds are already very obvious, and at this time attention should be paid to protecting the camellia from freezing.

If the flower buds are frozen off, all our previous efforts are wasted, and we have to wait until the next year to start over again. This period is very important. Camellia likes sun (the sun here means under suitable temperatures). Friends who grow flowers on balconies should try to place camellia in a sunny spot to protect the flower buds. There is no need to move the camellia; as a girl, one does not have such good physical strength, and besides, the camellia is too heavy. At this time, bud bags play a big role and can be used according to the winter temperature difference outdoors.

Camellia sends out shoots 2 times a year, and some even 3 times. Let me explain specifically. The first batch of buds begins in April after the camellia finishes flowering. Here let me insert a short passage about camellia pruning. After the camellia finishes flowering, camellia pruning can be carried out. At this time, appropriate camellia pruning can help make the overall shape of the camellia plant better and also prepare for the camellia to send out shoots. Camellia is pruned according to different varieties. Some send out more shoots when pruned more (Azalea camellia is a typical representative of this variety). The pruning situation can be decided according to the variety. The first batch of buds that come up are actually the essence that camellia will contribute to people in a year. If there are flower buds, they are just too small to be recognized by the naked eye. At this time, just like a child growing up, it should be given some good material. The frequency of fertilization is highest in April, applying fertilizer about once every other week. Camellia that has just been repotted can also be fertilized. The second batch of buds begins to sprout around late August. This batch of buds is not as neat as the April ones. At this time, appropriate pruning of branches and flower buds can also be done according to the overall columnar shape of the camellia. For fertilizer, use some appropriate dilute human manure.

Growing camellia and appreciating tea is a process. In this process some are happy and some are worried. Camellia should be repotted after growing in the original pot for 3 years, making appropriate adjustments. Many roots and a small pot: as the camellia plant grows, the root system continuously spreads and gradually fills the pot body. Because the soil in the pot is limited, water and nutrients are insufficient, making it difficult to meet the needs of camellia growth. At this time it is necessary to switch to a pot one size larger, giving enough space for the camellia root growth to release. Here it is worth

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, Part Eight
"Camellia Cultivation Methods"

-8°C low temperature (natural overwintering; Yunnan camellia is slightly less cold-tolerant). In areas south of the Huai River, it can generally overwinter naturally. The cultivation soil for camellia should be slightly acidic and requires good air permeability. To facilitate root hair development, peat, rotted sawdust, red soil, humus soil, or a mixed substrate of the above can usually be used for cultivation. Camellia requires stronger light than rhododendron. In spring, autumn, and winter, no shading is needed, and in summer 50% shading treatment can be used. Camellia is usually watered with neutral or slightly acidic surface water. Watering should follow the principle of dry-wet alternation: water when dry, and water thoroughly when watering, but be careful not to let it become too dry. Generally, before buds set at the end of spring shoots, water should be properly withheld to facilitate the transition to reproductive growth, and water must not be cut off before flowering. / Cultivation methods. Placement: Camellia should be placed in a warm, humid, ventilated, and light-transmitting place. In spring it needs sufficient light; in summer pay attention to shading, avoiding direct sunlight and western exposure. If placed on a balcony, it is often accidentally sunburned to death. Watering: The cultivation of camellia bonsai should maintain the soil in a moist state, but it should not be too wet, preventing alternating dry and wet conditions. Generally in spring it can be watered appropriately more to facilitate sprouting and shoot growth; in summer insist on watering in the morning and evening, preferably spraying water on the leaf surface to make the leaves thoroughly wet. Do not pour with a strong stream directly or flood-irrigate; do not water with hot water; avoid watering around midday when temperatures are high; in autumn water in moderation; in winter it is suitable to water around midday, and water can be sprayed once every two or three days. Fertilization: Camellia likes fertilizer. When potting up, pay attention to placing base fertilizer in the potting soil, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Fertilizers applied include decomposed bone meal, hair, chicken feathers, rice husk ash, poultry manure, and superphosphate. Usually do not fertilize too much. Generally after flowering, from April to May, apply 2 to 3 times dilute fertilizer water, and in November of autumn apply one slightly concentrated liquid fertilizer. When using fertilizer, note that the proportion of phosphorus fertilizer should be slightly larger to promote abundant flowers and bright colors. Pruning: Camellia grows relatively slowly and should not be pruned excessively. Generally, just cut off leggy branches that affect the tree shape, as well as diseased, pest-damaged, and weak branches. If there are too many flower buds on each branch, thin the flowers to keep only 1 to 2, and maintain a certain distance, removing the rest early to avoid consuming nutrients. In addition, promptly remove flowers that are close to fading, which can also reduce nutrient consumption, helping the plant grow robustly and form new flower buds. Repotting: Camellia bonsai can be repotted once every 1 to 2 years. The new pot should be one size larger than the old pot to facilitate the stretching and development of the root system. Repotting time is suitable in April of spring, and also in autumn. Combine soil replacement to appropriately remove part of the compacted old soil, replace with fertile, loose new soil, and combine with placing base fertilizer. Pest and disease control: The main diseases of camellia include black mold disease, anthracnose, and so on, which can be controlled by spraying 0.5 degree Bordeaux mixture. The main pest is the tea shoot moth; the control method is to cut off the infested shoots, generally suitably done from April to June.
Seven taboos for camellia care; camellia is a plant very easily seen in ordinary gardens. Because the dark green leaves are also very beautiful, the leaves alone can also be used as a foil for other flowers. But the flowers easily drop, which is its shortcoming. One can often see flower beds or pots planted full of primroses. Do not water too much. Be careful not to let the roots rot. Steps/methods and key points of care: Seven taboos for camellia care. One taboo: fertilizing in the early sprouting stage. Two taboo: applying concentrated fertilizer during the leaf expansion period. Three

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, Part Nine
"Camellia Cultivation Methods"

One of the world's famous flowers, it is also the city flower of Chongqing, the provincial flower of Yunnan Province, the city flower of Ningbo, Jinhua, and Wenzhou in Zhejiang, and Jingdezhen in Jiangxi, and the prefecture flower of Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan Province. Because of its graceful plant shape, dense green and glossy leaves, and brilliant and colorful flower forms, it is treasured by the world horticultural community.

Methods for growing camellia at home

1. Placement: Camellia should be placed in a warm, humid, ventilated, and light-transmitting place. In spring it needs sufficient light; in summer pay attention to shading, avoiding direct sunlight and western exposure. If placed on a balcony, it is often accidentally sunburned to death. In winter it should be placed indoors with a room temperature above 3°C.

2. Watering: The cultivation of camellia bonsai should maintain the soil in a moist state, but it should not be too wet, preventing alternating dry and wet conditions. Generally in spring it can be watered appropriately more to facilitate sprouting and shoot growth; in summer insist on watering in the morning and evening, preferably spraying water on the leaf surface to make the leaves thoroughly wet. Do not pour with a strong stream directly or flood-irrigate; do not water with hot water; avoid watering around midday when temperatures are high; in autumn water in moderation; in winter it is suitable to water around midday, and water can be sprayed once every two or three days.

3. Fertilization: Camellia likes fertilizer. When potting up, pay attention to placing base fertilizer in the potting soil, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Fertilizers applied include decomposed bone meal, hair, chicken feathers, rice husk ash, poultry manure, and superphosphate. Usually do not fertilize too much. Generally after flowering, from April to May, apply 2 to 3 times dilute fertilizer water, and in November of autumn apply 4. Pruning: Camellia grows relatively slowly and should not be pruned excessively. Generally, just cut off leggy branches that affect the tree shape, as well as diseased, pest-damaged, and weak branches. If there are too many flower buds on each branch, thin the flowers to keep only 1 to 2, and maintain a certain distance, removing the rest early to avoid consuming nutrients. In addition, promptly remove flowers that are close to fading, which can also reduce nutrient consumption, helping the plant grow robustly and form new flower buds.

5. Repotting: Camellia bonsai can be repotted once every 1 to 2 years. The new pot should be one size larger than the old pot to facilitate the stretching and development of the root system. Repotting time is suitable in April of spring, and also in autumn. Combine soil replacement to appropriately remove part of the compacted old soil, replace with fertile, loose new soil, and combine with placing base fertilizer.

6. Soil requirements. Soil is the foundation of camellia growth. All nutrients and so on for camellia are obtained from the soil, so the requirements for soil are quite high. Generally the soil should have relatively high humus content, with a pH value between 5 and 6.5, slightly acidic. The best soil formula is: 50% mountain soil, 40% sawdust or edible mushroom residue, 10% cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphate fertilizer powder.

7. Air circulation. The place where camellia grows has extremely high requirements for air circulation. It is most suitable for growing in a gentle breeze, but camellia is very afraid of northwest wind and strong wind, because northwest wind and strong wind easily cause water to evaporate too quickly, and the camellia's supply and demand lose balance, which is not conducive to camellia growth.

Pest and disease control: The main diseases of camellia include black mold disease, anthracnose, and so on, which can be controlled by spraying 0.5 degree Bordeaux mixture. The main pest is the tea shoot moth; the control method is to cut off the infested shoots, generally suitably done from April to June.

one slightly concentrated liquid fertilizer. When using fertilizer, note that the proportion of phosphorus fertilizer should be slightly larger to promote abundant flowers and bright colors.

Many flower enthusiasts also have potted camellia at home, but how to care for camellia well is something they lack experience in. Based on several major cultivation points, we introduce them one by one:

1. Soil is the growth foundation of potted camellia, because the camellia root system depends on the soil for growth and development, and the water and nutrients needed for camellia's life activities are mainly absorbed from the soil. Camellia likes slightly acidic, humus-rich, loose and airy mountain red (yellow) loam, with a pH value of 5 to 1

Several key points on the care of soilless potted flowers

China Landscape Network, June 26 news: Soilless cultivation can make plants grow rapidly and robustly, bloom more and earlier, larger and more fragrant, and resist cold and tolerate heat, with fewer pests and diseases. Generally, flowers that are easier to cultivate include: Monstera deliciosa, Aglaia odorata, Clivia, camellia, Chinese rose, jasmine, rhododendron, kumquat, lily of the valley, stock, Phalaenopsis, fuchsia, five-needle pine, banana tree, rubber fig, Brazilian iron, begonia, ferns, palm family plants, and so on. Potted flowers can be converted from soil cultivation to soilless cultivation in any season. The specific steps are as follows.

I. Prepare nutrient solution. Dilute the soilless cultivation nutrient solution sold on the market with water according to the specified multiple. You can also prepare the nutrient solution yourself with the following formula. 1. Major elements: potassium nitrate and magnesium sulfate 3 grams each, calcium nitrate 5 grams, ammonium phosphate 2 grams, potassium sulfate and potassium dihydrogen phosphate 1 gram each; 2. Trace elements: (use chemical reagents) disodium edetate 0.1 gram, ferrous sulfate 75 mg, boric acid 30 mg, manganese sulfate 20 mg, zinc sulfate 5 mg, copper sulfate 1 mg, ammonium molybdate 2 mg; 3. Tap water 5 kg. Prepare the major elements and trace elements into solutions separately, then mix them to make the nutrient solution. The amount of trace elements used is very small and not easy to weigh, so it can be prepared in enlarged multiples and then extracted in the same reduced proportion. For example, the trace elements can be enlarged 100 times by weight to prepare a solution, then extract 1% of that solution, which is the required amount. The nutrient solution is non-toxic, odorless, clean and hygienic, and can be stored for a long time.

II. Remove from pot. Use your fingers to push the root system together with the soil out from the hole at the bottom of the pot.

III. Wash the roots. Soak the root system with soil in water close to the ambient temperature, and wash the soil at the root zone clean.

IV. Dip in solution. Soak the washed roots in the prepared nutrient solution for 10 minutes to let them fully absorb nutrients.

V. Pot and pour in solution. Wash the flower pot clean, place a tile or fill plastic gauze at the bottom hole, then put a small amount of perlite and vermiculite into the pot, then place the plant into the pot and hold it upright, filling perlite, vermiculite, and other lightweight mineral stones around the root system. Shake the pot gently so that the mineral stones and root system are in close contact. Then pour in the prepared nutrient solution until liquid flows out from the bottom hole.

VI. Reinforce the root system. Place broken pieces such as fluorite and axe-split stone on top of the root system to reinforce the roots and prevent lodging. At the same time, spray some clear water on the leaf surface.

VII. Daily management. For soilless cultivated flower bonsai, the requirements for light, temperature, and other conditions are no different from soil cultivation. During the plant growth period, pour nutrient solution once a week, with the amount determined by plant size; for flowers whose leaves grow slowly, reduce the amount accordingly; in winter or during the dormant period, pour once every 15——30 days. Indoor foliage plants can survive under low-light conditions, so the amount of nutrient solution should be reduced. The nutrient solution can also be used for foliar spraying. Usually pay attention to timely watering.

Camellia bonsai: cultivation methods and key steps

Camellia cultivation methods and precautions (9 articles in total)

Several key points on the care of soilless potted flowers

Related Articles