A Detailed Guide to the Cultivation Techniques for Large-Scale Potted Propagation of Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and Its Pest and Disease Control
Nowadays people like to grow some green plants and flowers at home or in the office, and the vigorous golden pothos is especially the first choice. In recent years, as demand for potted golden pothos has increased, there are quite a few flower growers who cultivate potted golden pothos on a large scale. But potted golden pothos is not so easy to cultivate on a large scale. Below, the editor will talk with you about the propagation of potted golden pothos and its pest and disease control cultivation techniques.
1 Site selection
Choose a site that is flat, has sufficient light, is well ventilated, drains well and is free from waterlogging, and enclose it with a fence for protection. The seedling area consists of a windproof and rainproof shade shed with a shading rate of 65%; the ground is level, and it accounts for 20%-30% of the total site area, located in the southeast corner of the site. The production area consists of a shade shed with a shading rate of 70%-80%; the ground is level, clean and free of weeds, and it accounts for 70%-80% of the total site area.
2 Preparation of potting materials
2.1 Flower pots
The specifications should be determined according to the target height of the cultivated product. Generally, for a column height of 130 cm, choose a flower pot with a mouth diameter of 20 cm and a depth of 25 cm; for a column height of 150 cm, choose a flower pot with a mouth diameter of 25 cm and a depth of 30 cm; for a column height of 200 cm, choose a flower pot with a mouth diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 55 cm.
2.2 Growing medium
Choose a medium that is loose and breathable, retains fertilizer and water, and can hold the column and plants in place. It is commonly made by mixing coconut coir, peat soil, pond mud and perlite in the proportions of 25%, 25%, 45% and 5%.
2.3 Column
It is a plastic round tube column wrapped with 1-2 layers of palm fiber or other materials (the lower 15-20 cm does not need to be wrapped). There are generally 3 specifications: column height 130 cm with a tube diameter of 8 cm, column height 150 cm with a tube diameter of 10 cm, and column height 200 cm with a tube diameter of 27 cm.
3 Seedling propagation
3.1 Propagation methods
Cut cuttings from mother plants that are robust, have leaves more than 8 cm wide and are free of disease spots; the length is generally 10-15 cm. When selecting cuttings from the top shoot, at least 2 fully opened leaves should be retained. There are 2 propagation methods: cutting and layering.
3.1.1 Cutting propagation. It is best carried out in June. Cut branches 20-30 cm long, remove the leaves of the basal 1-2 nodes, and pot them directly in growing soil, with 3-5 plants per pot. Keep the soil and air moist; in an environment above 25 °C and semi-shade, they will root and sprout in about 20 d, gradually growing into new plants.
3.1.2 Layering propagation. Bury the middle part of a vine that is close to the ground into the soil layer, and draw the tail end and tie it to the column. Strengthen water and fertilizer management, and after it has taken shape, cut it away from the mother plant. This propagation method can increase the survival rate and save cultivation time.
3.2 Raising seedlings
3.2.1 Field seedling raising. After machine-plowing and loosening the seedling site, broadcast 30% organic fertilizer to improve the soil and make beds; the beds are 100 cm wide, 30 cm high and 6 m long, with a bed spacing of about 40 cm. Insert robust, already disinfected cuttings into the beds at a plant-row spacing of about 15 cm × 25 cm, leaving 1 bud node and 1 leaf exposed when planting.
3.2.2 Potted seedling raising. Choose plastic pots with a mouth diameter of 25 cm and a depth of 30 cm, fill them with medium, and set a column in the middle with a height of about 50 cm. Select robust, already disinfected cuttings and plant them evenly around the column, with 8-10 plants per pot.
4 Planting time
In the Guangdong area, planting can be done from March to November, and April to September is the most suitable, with the highest survival rate.
5 Field management
5.1 Light management
Golden pothos does not need strong light to grow. In summer, methods such as sprinkling water and shading should be used to avoid sunburn. In winter, the shade net should be opened to increase the light intensity accordingly, so as to prevent cold damage; at the same time, raise the temperature to promote leaf photosynthesis.
5.2 Water management
After planting, the medium humidity in the pot should be kept above 60%; when it is below 60%, water (spray) immediately. Watering (spraying) should be done from top to bottom along the top of the column so that the medium is soaked through. In winter, when the temperature is lower, the rates of plant transpiration and soil evaporation are slower, so the number of waterings should be reduced, and it is enough to keep the soil moist.
5.3 Fertilization management
Spring, summer and autumn are the growing seasons for golden pothos, so fertilizer should be applied frequently and lightly. Apply a compound fertilizer with a relatively high nitrogen content once every 10-15 d by drenching, at a concentration of 0.2%-0.3%; solid fertilizer may also be broadcast, with 5 g being sufficient for a flower pot with a mouth diameter of 10 cm. In winter, golden pothos grows slowly or even stops growing, so less fertilizer should be applied; it is advisable to apply a compound fertilizer with a relatively high phosphorus and potassium content once every 25-30 d.
5.4 Plant management
5.4.1 Vine guiding. After the seedling buds grow 2 leaf nodes, vine guiding is needed. Press the rooting side of the vine closely against the surface of the column and fix it with bamboo sticks so that aerial roots grow from the rooting side and attach to the column. Vine guiding needs to be carried out from time to time.
5.4.2 Topping. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, they should be topped and pinched. Top and remove the leggy branches that are more than 10 cm taller, so as to prevent uneven growth.
6 Control of pests, diseases and cold damage
The control of pests, diseases and cold damage in golden pothos should focus on prevention. When diseased or residual plants are found, they should be promptly removed and deeply buried; use tap water or well water for irrigation; reasonably arrange the layout of various varieties in the flower field, and minimize repeated infection and mutual spread of pests and diseases.
6.1 Control of main diseases
6.1.1 Soft rot. Also known as Philodendron soft rot, it is the most common disease in golden pothos cultivation and often causes petiole and stem rot, leading to wilting and death. In the early stage, water-soaked spots with blurred edges appear on green tender stems or petioles, then rapidly expand upward, downward and laterally; subsequently, the tissues inside the tender stems and petioles begin to soften and rot and give off a foul odor. When the lesion encircles the petiole for 1 full circle, the part above it bends over and turns yellow. It is prone to occur and spread in environments that are poorly ventilated, stuffy and hot, and high in humidity. Control methods include ventilation, cutting off diseased parts and spraying chemicals. In the early stage of the disease, spray 77% Kocide micronized wettable powder at 500 times dilution, 14% copper ammonia complex aqueous solution at 300 times dilution, 72% agricultural streptomycin soluble powder at 400 times dilution, or Xinzhimeisu at 4 000 times dilution for control, spraying once every 10-15 d for 2-3 consecutive sprays.
6.1.2 Perforation leaf spot. This disease mostly occurs in warm, high-humidity, rainy and poorly ventilated growing environments. In the early stage, brown spots appear on the leaf surface; after expansion they merge into large nearly round or irregular lesions, and later the center of the leaf spot often perforates, with a small number of granular small black dots borne on the residual diseased tissue at the lesion edge. Control methods include promptly cutting off diseased leaves when found, paying attention to water control in all four seasons and chemical protection. In the early stage of the disease, spray 12% copper green emulsifiable concentrate at 600 times dilution or 70% copper oxychloride wettable powder at 1 000 times dilution for control, spraying once every 10 d for 2-3 consecutive sprays.
6.1.3 Anthracnose. This disease mostly damages the middle section of leaves and can repeatedly infect throughout the entire growing period. In the early stage, small reddish-brown or dark brown pustule-like spots appear, with a faded green halo around the spots; after expansion they become long oval or long strip-shaped patches, with dark brown edges and a yellow-brown interior, and with ring-shaped markings formed by the convergence of dark spots. When diseased plants are found, use carbendazim, chlorothalonil or 70% thiophanate-methyl at 800-1 000 times dilution for control, spraying once every 10-15 d for 2 consecutive sprays.
6.1.4 Root rot. This disease mostly occurs during the cutting seedling stage and can reduce the survival rate. At the initial onset, the cut surface of the cuttings shows wet rot with no callus tissue, gradually spreading upward and becoming brown or dark brown rot; the roots also gradually turn brown and rot. In the late stage of the disease, the epidermis of the diseased part is easily peeled off, and white mycelium appears on the diseased part. The new leaves of the aboveground part first wilt, and then the whole plant wilts and droops. After cutting, drip irrigation to maintain moisture is the main measure to prevent and control this disease. After 2-3 d of cutting, promptly irrigate with 50% Genfuling or 50% Genfujing at 800-1 000 times dilution so that the solution penetrates to the damaged root and stem parts. According to the condition, it can be used 2-3 times consecutively at an interval of 7-10 d. For those with severely damaged root systems, using it together with a root-promoting regulator gives a better recovery effect.
6.2 Control of main insect pests
6.2.1 Scale insects. They occur in 2-3 generations per year and often gather in groups on vines and the undersides of leaves. Adults and nymphs suck the sap of vines and leaves with their needle-like mouthparts, causing branches and leaves to wither and even the whole plant to die, and can induce sooty mold, causing great harm. Because scale insects have a scale covering and strong pesticide resistance, they are difficult to control; chemical control should be carried out at the peak hatching stage before the scale has formed. When scale insects are found on individual branches or leaves, they can be gently brushed off with a soft brush, or removed together with pruning by cutting off infested shoot tips and leaves and burning them in a centralized manner. They can be evenly sprayed with 40% omethoate or 50% dichlorvos at 1 000 times dilution for control, spraying once every 10-15 d for 2-3 consecutive sprays.
6.2.2 Spodoptera litura. The larvae bite and eat leaves. Young larvae nibble the lower epidermis and mesophyll of leaves, leaving only the upper epidermis as transparent spots. After the 4th instar they enter a period of heavy feeding, biting entire leaves and leaving only the main veins; when the damage is severe, they can eat all the leaves over a large area. At the initial outbreak, 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate or 40% profenofos at 1 000 times dilution can be used for spot treatment or alternately for full spraying for control, spraying once every 7-10 d for 2-3 consecutive sprays, sprayed evenly and sufficiently, with a control effect of more than 95%.
6.2.3 Aphids. Aphids use piercing-sucking mouthparts to suck large amounts of sap from leaves and branches, worsening the nutrition of leaves and branches, causing growth to stagnate or be delayed, and in severe cases causing deformed growth; they can also induce sooty mold and transmit many plant viruses. Yellow sticky traps can be used to trap and kill them: choose 1 piece of hard cardboard or wooden board 25 cm long and 20 cm wide, stick yellow paper on it, then coat the yellow paper with 1 layer of yellow grease to make a trap board, insert the trap board among the flower pots, and use aphids' attraction to yellow to stick the aphids on the trap board and kill them. Chemical control can also be used, that is, at the young nymph stage, use 1.8% abamectin at 2 000-3 000 times dilution or 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2 000 times dilution for control, focusing the spray on growing points and the undersides of leaves, spraying about once every 10 d for 2-3 consecutive sprays.
6.2.4 Red spider mites. This pest has a very strong reproductive capacity and likes high-temperature, dry environments, reproducing 1 generation in as little as about 5 d. They mostly gather on the undersides of leaves, spinning webs and causing damage. In the early stage of damage, the leaves lose green and the leaf edges curl upward, leading to withering and shedding, and in severe cases the plant dies. Pay attention to observation at ordinary times; when abnormal leaf color is found, carefully check the underside of the leaves. When only individual leaves are damaged, the infested leaves can be picked off; when more leaves are affected, spray pesticide as early as possible. Commonly used pesticides include propargite, dicofol, dimethoate, fenvalerate, etc., spraying once every 7-10 d for 2-3 consecutive sprays.
6.3 Cold damage prevention
Golden pothos fears cold and is not cold-tolerant. During cultivation, freezing will cause leaves to scorch or droop, and after freezing they will turn black until death. When the temperature in early spring or winter is below 12 °C, plastic film must be covered on the top and around the shed for insulation, and ventilation openings should be set up to prevent cold injury to golden pothos.
Tulip pot cultivation methods and pest and disease control
How are potted tulips cultivated? Many flower lovers like to grow a pot of tulips at home; they can not only decorate the home but also be pleasing to the eye. Tulips are suitable for open-field planting, but the soil capacity in a flower pot is limited and often cannot meet the needs of tulip growth. Therefore, when potting tulips, variety selection, medium preparation, planting methods, post-planting management, etc. are all very important. Below, let us study together the potted tulip techniques, cultivation management and pest and disease control.
1 Tulip pot cultivation methods
1.1 Variety selection
There are many tulip varieties and they are rich in types. When potting, it is advisable to choose short-statured varieties. If the plants are too tall, their lodging resistance is weak. Choose tulip bulbs that are brightly colored, have large and plump flowers, are of superior bulb quality, plump and fat, have no external wounds, feel hard and heavy in the hand, are free of pests and diseases, and have a bulb circumference of 10-12 cm.
1.2 Pots to use
There are many kinds of containers that can be chosen for tulips: plastic, porcelain, wooden, earthenware; from large flower bowls of 1-2 m to small flower pots of 10-15 cm, all can be used for planting, but as for material, unglazed clay pots and plastic pots are still the best, and the bottom must have drainage holes. When some flower pots are displayed and placed according to special needs, plastic colored pots of similar shape and various colors may be used as outer pots for beauty, depending on specific needs. Choosing the depth of the flower pot is also very important. The quality of tulip root growth directly affects the flowering quality of tulips, because if the flower pot is too shallow, it is not conducive to the root growth of tulip bulbs, root growth is restricted, and the absorption of nutrients and water from the soil by the roots is seriously affected, making the plants weak and slender with small flowers. Therefore, the depth of the selected flower pot is best 15-20 cm.
1.3 Pot soil
Choose well-drained peat soil or humus soil rich in organic matter as the growing medium. Prepare garden soil, grass peat and river sand in a ratio of 3:2:1; the suitable pH value is 6.6-7. Soak the bulbs in 500 times dilution carbendazim for 20-30 min for disinfection, then rinse them clean with clear water, and plant the rinsed and dried bulbs in the flower pot.
1.4 Planting method and density
First spread a small amount of stones at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage, then put the prepared soil into the flower pot. Before planting, in order to speed up tulip rooting, remove the brown epidermis around the root plate at the bottom of the bulbs, then place the bulbs. The number of bulbs placed depends on the size of the flower pot, and the distance between bulbs is preferably 2-3 cm. Place the bulbs upright in the flower pot with the bud tips pointing upward, and cover the tops of the bulbs with 5 cm of pot soil.
2 Cultivation management
It is best to finish planting tulips in early October, so that it basically matches the open-field planting time. Then place the flower pots planted with tulips outdoors in the open field. According to the number and size of the flower pots, dig trenches in the open field, place the flower pots side by side in the trenches, keep the height of the trenches level with the tops of the flower pots, and backfill soil around them and in the gaps between pots. On the day of planting, water the tulips evenly and thoroughly once; the principle is "water at the right time, water in the right amount." Do not water too much or too frequently, otherwise the pot soil will be too wet and cause the bulbs to rot. This period is the rooting stage of tulips, and the quality of watering directly affects the growth of the tulip root system. The medium must not be too dry and can remain moist for a long time; the amount of watering should also be determined according to specific conditions, and according to different weather and growth and development conditions at different periods. By early November, cover the pots with straw pieces for winter cold protection. In the spring of the 2nd year, as the temperature rises, the surface begins to thaw; remove the cold-protection straw curtains, so that the backfilled soil can be removed and the flower pots taken out, at about early April. Move the flower pots to a ventilated and open place; shade them in high temperature, strong sun or at noon; water appropriately according to whether the weather is cloudy or clear and whether the temperature is high or low; do not let them become dry or waterlogged, and always keep the pot soil moist; after flowering, control water appropriately. During the tulip growing period, apply a light foliar fertilizer about once every 1 week.
3 Pest and disease control of tulips
3.1 Penicillium disease
After injured bulbs have been stored for a period of time, discoloration appears on the scales of the bulbs, and green fungi cover the inside of the scales. Control methods: prevent the bulbs from being injured, maintain air circulation and ventilation when storing bulbs, and prohibit planting bulbs that have already been infected or injured.
3.2 Root rot
Some roots rot, the infected roots become waxy, and the local soil around the roots turns brown. When root rot is severe, it will cause flower wilting and produce flower fragments attached to shorter plants.
Control methods: before planting in continuous cropping land, disinfect the soil with chloropicrin. Disinfect bulbs with Lobilon, ensure soil air permeability and avoid water accumulation. For the first 2 weeks after planting, ensure the soil temperature is below 10 °C and must not exceed 12 °C.
3.3 Young bud brown spot
Orange-brown patches and stripes appear on the outside of young buds, and there are water droplets on these spots, as if there are gnawed marks. The symptoms will not develop further, and the plants can usually bloom normally, but the top leaves are damaged. Control methods: disinfect infected soil and spray mancozeb and anilazine, with a disinfection depth of 15 cm. Disinfect bulbs with Lobilon and captan, and do not plant in continuous cropping with tomato, chrysanthemum or cereal grain crops.
3.4 Gray mold
The bulbs become completely or partially soft, and a large number of black conidia are produced in the affected area. After the aboveground part is infected, the plants become weak, and severely infected plants are very short or do not develop at all. Control methods: enhance medium permeability, strengthen soil disinfection, treat bulbs with fungicides before planting, and promptly inspect and remove bulbs with growth disorders after planting.
3.5 Fusarium
During storage, gray-brown spots will appear on infected bulbs, sometimes with concentric circles and obvious yellow edges. In a moist environment, diseased bulbs are covered with white to pink fungi, have a special odor, and release ethylene. The bulbs shrink; when the bulbs are pinched by hand, a rattling sound comes from inside. Control methods: properly store lightly infected bulbs and ensure normal storage temperature and humidity conditions. Field-infected bulbs should be removed as early as possible, otherwise they will release ethylene, thereby causing gummosis-like bud splitting, bud necrosis and flower blight. Bulbs must be disinfected before planting. At planting, the soil temperature should be below 10 °C and must never exceed 13 °C.
3.6 Soft rot
The bulbs rot and become muddy matter, forming a white slimy substance; first the leaf tips turn light red, and afterward the entire leaf changes color and withers. Control methods: disinfect bulbs with chloramphenicol; other methods are the same as for root rot.
The above are all the key points of tulip pot cultivation techniques. Flower growers who want to grow tulips in pots at home should study them well!
Control of pests and diseases of potted golden pothos
Anthracnose
Symptoms
When anthracnose occurs, it mainly affects the middle section of leaves, and even flowers, but golden pothos does not bloom! Reddish-brown or dark brown spots appear on the leaves. As the disease worsens, the spots gradually expand and ring-shaped markings appear. The same plant will be repeatedly infected.
Control methods
Wash the leaves: use clear water spray to wash the leaves clean, and usually give them more sunlight.
Spray chemicals: anthracnose infection can only be contained by chemicals. Carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl or Tante Ling can be chosen; dilute the solution and spray it once every 1-2 days, and improvement can be seen after 3-4 times.
Root rot
Symptoms
As the name implies, root rot mainly harms the roots and causes rot; in severe cases it will cause the leaves to turn yellow and wither and the whole plant to die.
Control methods
During the onset period, spray 50% carbendazim, or directly use the solution to drench the roots.
In severe cases, directly change the soil: pull out the golden pothos, remove the rotted part of the roots, and replant.
Leaf spot
Symptoms
Leaf spot mainly harms leaves. Many small brown spots appear on the leaves, similar to the symptoms of anthracnose, but the spots spread over the entire leaf.
Control methods
Promptly remove diseased leaves, pay attention to ventilation, and provide sufficient sunlight.
Spray chemicals: use 500 times dilution amobam for spray control.