How to cultivate floribunda roses? Detailed explanation of cultivation management and care techniques

Floribunda roses are a type of rose with rich flower colors, beautiful flower shapes and a long flowering period. They are commonly planted in urban landscaping and garden flower beds, and can also be grown in courtyards or as potted plants. The planting method is simple. Below are detailed floribunda rose cultivation, management and care techniques for your reference.

Growing environment

Floribunda roses prefer light and a warm, humid climate. They are cold-resistant, heat-resistant, drought-resistant, waterlogging-resistant and disease-resistant, with extremely strong adaptability to the environment; they grow best in fertile, slightly acidic soil. When cultivating this flower in the north, mound soil around it and cover it with grass in winter to protect it through the winter.

Cultivation management

① Floribunda roses are best propagated by cuttings in spring and autumn, and can also be propagated by cuttings in summer. Simply select healthy, robust branches with fully developed leaves as cuttings, cut them to 10 cm long with 4 nodes, cut the lower end into a horseshoe or slanted shape, soak the base in an appropriate amount of rooting agent for 2-3 hours, then insert the cuttings. This can increase the survival rate.

② For the soil, nutrient soil, river sand and perlite can be used as the substrate. After inserting the cuttings, water them appropriately, then cover them with plastic sheeting. During this period, water to maintain humidity and temperature, and also open the plastic sheeting in the morning and evening for ventilation, covering it again at noon, which helps the branches sprout and take root. When the sprouts grow to 2 cm, after about 10 days, ventilate during the day and cover at night; after 60 days, grow them normally.

Pruning

Floribunda roses have strong adaptability and tolerate pruning. In spring, prune away weak branches and diseased, thin branches to promote plant growth and abundant flowering; during the flowering period, promptly cut off spent flowers or overly dense branches to improve ventilation and light penetration; after autumn, prune dead branches, diseased branches and old branches to prevent them from absorbing excess nutrients.

The greatest characteristic of floribunda roses is that their flower color is unaffected by climate and temperature, and their ornamental value is extremely high. Common colors include deep red, silver pink and light pink. When in bloom, they form a beautiful scenic line. Friends who are interested can take a look at the cultivation and care techniques shared by the editor.

Cultivation techniques for roses, cultivation, care and management methods for roses

Rose cultivation: Roses are plants that greatly prefer sunlight. If there is insufficient light, it is very difficult to achieve monthly blooming, so flower enthusiasts growing roses should pay attention to this point. Below we focus on introducing rose cultivation methods.

That is, while the plant is flowering, promptly prune away some overly dense outer flower branches, thin branches and clustered branches of potted roses, prompting the plant to produce some new vegetative branches to replace the old flower branches. The specific method is: when the flowers on a flower branch fade, cut the 3 to 5 nodes below the flower short. In principle, long flower branches should be pruned a little longer, and short flower branches a little shorter. Main flower branches are pruned long, side flower branches are cut off where they meet the main branch, and the terminal flower branches on each main branch are thinned by removing the weak and keeping the strong, with heavy pruning carried out to stimulate vigorous new branches from low node positions on the main branches.

During the rose growing period, work such as bud removal, bud thinning and removal of spent flowers should be carried out. Bud removal means removing excessive young buds that grow in spring; except for keeping 2 to 3 on the main branches, let nutrients be concentrated and supplied to the main branches, so that the plant grows quickly, the branches are sturdy, and the flowers are large, full and bright. The purpose of bud thinning is to avoid flowers being numerous but deformed, which not only wastes nutrients but also spoils the beauty of the flower shape. Removing spent flowers means promptly cutting off the flower and the two compound leaves below it when the flower fades. When there are many flowers, some can be removed, which not only concentrates nutrients but also achieves the purpose of extending the flowering period and opening in batches.

Organic fertilizer plus compound fertilizer: for each bucket of water, add 0.5 kg of compound fertilizer (15:15:15) plus 2 kg of composted organic fertilizer, apply once every half month, and so on.

After May comes the rainy season, when black spot and powdery mildew pathogens easily breed. Spray Bordeaux mixture or Topsin, chlorothalonil, or thiophanate-methyl and the like alternately about every 10 days.

Roses by nature dislike heat, and grow best at temperatures of 20°C to 25°C. On sunny summer noons, the temperature is mostly above 30°C, so water should be sprayed between 10 o'clock and 15 o'clock to lower the temperature and keep the rose shoot tips upright and fresh.

Clear away fallen leaves and weeds to keep the rose seedlings uniform.

Along with clearing weeds from the pot surface, a fine wire rake can be used to gently break the surface layer of soil around the flower pot, enhancing the looseness and aeration of the potting soil and promoting normal root growth.

The area where flower pots are placed should frequently be sprayed with 15% limewater or carbendazim or potassium permanganate aqueous solution for sterilization. July to August, the rainy season with high temperatures, is the peak period for leaf spot and powdery mildew. Spray with 0.3-0.5 degree Baumé lime sulfur mixture once a week for a total of 2-3 sprays.

Care methods for rose cultivation

Rose (scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq.), known as the queen of flowers, also called "monthly red", is an evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub that blooms in all four seasons, generally red, or pink, occasionally white and yellow. It can be used as an ornamental plant and also as a medicinal plant, also known as rose. There are three natural varieties. Modern roses have diverse flower shapes, including single-petaled and double-petaled, as well as elegant shapes such as high-centered with rolled edges; their colors are brilliant and rich, not only single colors such as red, pink, yellow and white, but also mixed colors and silver-edged varieties; most varieties are fragrant. There are many rose varieties, with nearly ten thousand in the world, and more than a thousand in China.

1. Rose varieties and habits

1.1.1 Hybrid tea roses
This type has the highest ornamental value and is found all over the world. The leaves are dark green, mostly glossy, and the flower buds are long. The flowers are large and full.

1.1.2 Floribunda roses
The flower colors are rich, but the flower diameter is slightly smaller, and the flowers open in clusters and concentratedly. Whenever the flowering season arrives, there is a profusion of blooms and a riot of colors, fully expressing the beauty of the group. In addition, there are also grandiflora roses, miniature roses, climbing roses and other varieties.

1.2 Ecological habits of roses
Roses are deciduous plants native to temperate zones and have a certain degree of cold resistance. When planted in most areas of northern China, they need to be protected by mounding soil for the winter, while in other areas they can overwinter naturally in the open. They like sunlight and have no strict requirements for day length, so they can bloom continuously. In midsummer they mostly stop growing and bloom little. In winter, if placed in a high-temperature greenhouse, they remain evergreen and continue to bloom, but this is unfavorable for the next year's growth. They are not strict about soil and prefer neutral, well-drained loam and clay loam, and can tolerate weak alkalinity. They grow poorly in sandy soil and acidic soil. They are highly tolerant of fertilizer and need frequent fertilizer supplementation to bloom continuously.

2 Propagation methods of roses
Rose propagation is mainly vegetative propagation, and can be done by cuttings, grafting, division, layering, etc., with cuttings and grafting being the most commonly used.

2.1 Cutting propagation
For rose cutting propagation, first prepare the cutting hotbed well. Place fermenting material such as horse manure or leaves into the hotbed, water it and press it firm, and it will generate a certain amount of heat. Cut semi-lignified branches from the mother rose plant after the flowers fade, about 10 cm long. Generally a branch has three buds, and all the lower leaves of the cutting should be removed, leaving only the two leaves at the top for photosynthesis. Too many leaves should not be left, as they consume nutrients in the stem and evaporate a large amount of water. Cut the base of the cutting into a "horseshoe" slant shape, place it in a basin of clean water to prevent air-drying, and insert it promptly. The most suitable temperature for rose rooting is 20-25°C, and rooting generally only begins above 8°C. If the winter ground temperature is below 8°C, it is very difficult to root after cutting. When the spring temperature rises, besides paying attention to spraying the bed surface, do not neglect the water in the bed, otherwise due to lack of water, the cuttings will wither, and even small seedlings that have already rooted will be dried to death. The method to check the substrate is to insert a hand into the soil to a depth of 8-10 cm, take out a little, and if it can be kneaded into a ball by hand, the moisture is suitable; if it cannot be kneaded into a ball, the soil is short of water.

First use a wooden stick to make a hole, then insert the cutting into the sand hole and press it firm with your hand. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the cutting, and the spacing should be such that the leaves do not overlap. After inserting, promptly water thoroughly with a fine watering can. After sprinkling the bed sand firm, cover it well with plastic film and shade it for 1 week. Spray the leaves 1-2 times a day. After about 1 week the wound begins to heal, and after about one month roots can form and it can be transplanted. When transplanting, make the roots adhere to mud slurry and plant while digging. Mixing 1%-2% copper sulfate and about 0.50% urea into the mud slurry can both prevent root rot and promote seedling growth and survival. Before potting, place broken tile pieces over the drainage hole of the flower pot, add mixed soil, then plant the seedling with soil into the pot, add layers and press firm, water thoroughly once after planting, place it under a shade shed for 7-10 days, then move it to a ventilated and sunny place. After potting, water thoroughly once a day.

2.2 Grafting propagation
Grafting is the main means of propagating roses. When grafting, the choice of rootstock is very important. The rootstock should have an ample source of cuttings, root easily, adapt to the local climate conditions, and have good affinity with the scion. At present, the rootstock commonly used in China is rose. Dormant-season grafting often uses whip grafting, before the leaf buds sprout in spring. Growing-season grafting often uses bud grafting.

3. Cultivation management of roses
Rose cultivation is divided into protected cultivation and open-field cultivation.

3.1 Protected cultivation (pot cultivation)
Roses are light-loving plants, but overly strong light is unfavorable for flower bud development; however, when grown in places with insufficient sunlight, the branches are slender. Roses take about 45 days from budding to flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 15-25°C. Within this temperature range, the flowers are large and beautiful; at 30°C growth slows, and above 30°C the flowers become smaller and the flower color fades. When potting 2-3 year old seedlings, the roots should be trimmed, cutting the old roots short to promote new roots, but root trimming should not be too heavy. When planting, pay attention to spreading the root system and keeping the plant upright, and the potting soil should not be filled to the brim. Potting is generally carried out during the dormant period. Roses grow vigorously and need much fertilizer, so repot once a year or once every other year. Repotting is carried out during the dormant period, and after repotting, water thoroughly twice. In spring, summer and autumn, they should be placed in a site with ample sunlight, good ventilation and no water accumulation.

After Qingming, this is a careful pruning when roses come out of storage. Keep the robust branches of the rose and cut off the rest of the horizontal branches, weak branches, crossing branches and overly dense branches. The selected branches should retain 3-5 buds from the base, and all branches above should be cut off, so that the plant absorbs a large amount of nutrients from the soil to supply the long-term growth needs of the leaf buds and flower buds on the branches left after pruning. Remember not to prune after the buds have sprouted, as delayed pruning affects the first flowering. The growth height is required to be consistent. Each plant can keep 3-5 main branches, at most 7.

Do not water potted roses unless the soil is dry; when watering, water thoroughly. In summer, the weather is hot and evaporation is high, so potted plants should be watered more, especially the watering in the evening should be sufficient. When the temperature exceeds 30°C, roses grow poorly and bloom little. Some people think it is due to insufficient fertility and apply more topdressing, which instead makes things worse. In midsummer, generally no topdressing is applied; only for robustly growing plants, apply light fertilizer frequently, 1-2 times a week. If possible, provide appropriate shade after 11 a.m. and let them bask in the sun again after 4 p.m., avoiding the hot midday temperature, while also allowing them to experience the weaker sunlight before noon and after noon, which is beneficial for photosynthesis and accumulates nutrients for the next crop of flowers. Fertilize immediately after pruning, applying 50% human manure and urine mixed with 2% superphosphate. In mid-February, apply topdressing with 3% human manure and urine or 1% urea. Urea can also be sprinkled before or after rain. Do not fertilize when new shoots turn red; fertilizing at this time damages young roots and causes the plant to wilt or stop growing, so special attention should be paid to this.

Roses also need intermediate pruning, mainly to cut off the sprouting branches from the rootstock of grafted seedlings, to cut off spent flowers together with leaves after flowering, and to thin out excess flower buds. After the first crop of flowers, cut off the slender and weak flower branches from the base, and for the remaining thick and strong flower branches, cut below the spent flower at 2-3 leaves. For the second crop of flowers, the method of thinning weak branches, keeping strong branches and strong buds can still be used for pruning.

Roses also need one pruning before overwintering, but not too early. When pruning roses, not only should strong branches be selected and kept, but attention should also be paid to evenness of the main and secondary branches. Large-flowered varieties should keep 4-6 strong branches, and on each branch select a lateral strong bud at 30-40 cm and cut off the middle and upper branches. For trailing and climbing varieties, remove old branches, weak branches and diseased or pest-infested branches to cultivate the main trunk.

3.2 Open-field cultivation
Roses planted in the open field have well-developed root systems, grow rapidly, have robust plants, slightly larger flowers and high ornamental value. During management, cultivation measures should be chosen according to different types, growth habits and geographical conditions. Choose a cultivation site with relatively high terrain, ample sunlight, air circulation and slightly acidic soil. When planting, deeply plow the land and apply organic fertilizer as base fertilizer. The planting density for upright varieties is 75 cm x 75 cm, for spreading varieties the row spacing is 100 cm x 100 cm, for vertical-growing varieties the row spacing is 40 cm x 50 cm, and for climbing varieties the row spacing is 200 cm x 200 cm.

4. Prevention and control of rose pests and diseases

4.1 Chemical control

4.1.1 Powdery mildew
A fungal disease that harms flowers in environments with high temperature, poor ventilation and relatively high humidity. A white powder-like phenomenon appears on young leaves, called powdery mildew. A 600-fold dilution of triadimefon or a 400-fold dilution of thiram can be used.

4.1.2 Black spot
Caused by fungi, it overwinters in the soil on diseased residual branches or fallen leaves as mycelium or acervuli. In the following spring, it absorbs water and produces conidia, mainly spread by wind and rain. Rainy, foggy and dewy weather is conducive to spore germination, so the disease occurs easily. When water droplets remain on the leaves, the spores can germinate and invade after 6 hours in them. Under conditions of high air humidity in the rainy season, it is conducive to pathogen reproduction and disease prevalence. A 0.10-0.20 degree Baumé lime sulfur mixture, or a 500-1000 fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, can be sprayed on the leaf surface.

4.2 Integrated control
Eliminate pathogens early. In early spring, in the first ten days of April, after the roses come out of storage and before the tree vigor has become active, first carry out one pruning. Before budding, spray the roses comprehensively and carefully (including the plant, potting soil and surrounding site of the pot) with 0.50-1 degree Baumé lime sulfur mixture.

Plants should be sprayed regularly for prevention and control. A 500-fold dilution of 75% wettable chlorothalonil and a 150-fold dilution of 18% copper fungicide can be sprayed once every 10 days. If it rains after spraying, spray again promptly after the rain. The spraying time is from June to September, with frequent spraying to control the occurrence of black spot. (