Recommended Rose Varieties: 20 With Beautiful Names and Looks, Plus Care Tips

As people today increasingly pursue a high-quality life, growing flowers at home has become a trend, and especially beautiful rose varieties are deeply loved by flower enthusiasts. Below, the Hui Nong Wang editor introduces 20 rose flower varieties with beautiful names and beautiful looks!

1. Impression

1. Climbing rose, strong fragrance, large flower diameter.

2. Can grow to more than 1.8 m, suitable for climbing cultivation on courtyard walls.

3. The color is a blend of peach, apricot, orange and yellow, with an old rose fragrance mixed with myrrh. A cross between Distant Drums and Thomas, forming a large shrub as well as a climbing plant type.

2. Ambridge

1. Shrub variety, strong fragrance, myrrh scent, average diameter 9 cm, repeat flowering in multiple seasons.

2. Habit: height 75 to 105 cm, width 60 to 90 cm.

3. Disease susceptibility: prone to mildew. Potted plants need frost protection.

3. Mint Parfait

1. Shrub, miniature rose, pale yellow with pink stripes (color unstable), flowers relatively small.

2. A rose variety that is very sun-tolerant and disease-resistant.

4. First Night

1. Shrub rose, red flowers, no fragrance or a faint sugary-water scent.

2. Flowering period as long as 20-30 days, sun-tolerant, rain-tolerant, few thorns, disease-resistant

3. Flowers: diameter about 5-11 cm

5. Fledgling

Shrub rose, blooms with a particularly strong and pleasant fragrance, heat-tolerant

6. Pink Luna

1. Shrub variety, a floribunda with multiple heads, soft pink. Wavy serrated petal edges.

2. Heat-resistant, long-lasting flowering period without losing shape.

7. Song of the Sea

Shrub, blue-purple double flowers, repeat flowering in multiple seasons.

8. Black Magic

Shrub variety, dark red flowers, mostly blooming individually, a variety that repeats flowering in multiple seasons, can be used as a cut flower and to decorate the garden.

9. Red Apple

1. Deep red shrub variety, flower diameter 8-10 cm, height 40 cm, width 60 cm, planting spacing 35 cm.

2. A cut-flower rose; as its name suggests, it not only has this apple-like flower shape, its deep red color is equally strongly attractive.

10. Red Pompon

Small climber, a variety that can be grown as a climber or as a shrub, red flowers, relatively abundant flowering, can be used as a cut flower. Old-fashioned rounded flower shape, quartered opening form.

11. Hunio

1. Shrub floribunda rose, mixed colors.

2. Has red and white stripes. White and pink stripes. Strong citrus fragrance. Average diameter 8 cm. Medium flower, double (17-25 petals), clustered flowers, small cluster form. Repeat blooming in multiple seasons.

3. Stems medium, dense, upright. Leaves large, semi-glossy, dark green.

4. Height 70 to 80 cm, width 135 cm.

12. Floral Honey Words

1. Shrub cut-flower rose, deep pink color, petal diameter 8 to 10 cm, slightly wavy rosette form, relatively many petals, can reach more than 60 petals. As its name suggests, it is a strongly fragrant rose.

2. Blooms in multiple seasons, relatively good disease resistance.

13. Yellow Love Rose

Shrub multi-head floribunda variety, plant strongly recommended, good disease resistance, very bright bright yellow, medium fragrance, very pleasant, repeat flowering in multiple seasons

14. Geoff Hamilton

1. Shrub. A perfect cabbage shape comparable to the Queen, with even more petals than the Queen, and at the same time a mature plant has a very large flower count, the flowers are extremely beautiful!

2. Pink. Strong fragrance. Petals 41 to 108. Average diameter 6 cm. Repeat flowering in multiple seasons.

3. Height 120 to 150 cm, width 120 cm. Very disease-resistant.

15. Carola

1. Shrub large-flowered, multi-head cut-flower rose, bright red/velvety texture

2. Light fragrance, plant can grow 60-90 cm, repeat blooming in multiple seasons

16. Carnival Bubble

1. Shrub, multi-head cut-flower rose, flowers in multiple heads

2. Abundant flowering, repeat flowering in multiple seasons.

3. Orange compound red, the passionate orange-red two-tone makes you fall in love at first sight.

4. Diameter 6-8 CM, a multi-head variety with relatively good resistance, adding a striking touch of orange to your garden

17. Blue Storm

1. Shrub floribunda rose, Blue Storm, not a blue flower as the name literally suggests. At high temperatures it appears pink-purple. At low temperatures it appears a mild blue-purple, light purple.

2. Height 120 cm, flower diameter 7-8 cm, medium fragrance.

18. Meteor Shower

1. Shrub floribunda rose. Black-red, with lemon-yellow stripes or blotches. No to medium fragrance. Average flower diameter 7 cm. Flowers medium-sized, double, high-centered recurved flower form. Blooms diligently in all four seasons.

2. Habit: moderate growth vigor, thornless or almost thornless. Leaves medium-sized, dark green, matte. Plant height above 80 cm. Heat tolerance is very good, with excellent flowering performance in summer.

3. Suitable for pot culture, ground planting, and cut-flower cultivation.

19. Sweet Encounter

1. The flower color of this variety will open in different colors depending on the season and region.

2. In spring it is tender pink-white, in autumn deep pink-white and other multiple colors, the flower form has a beauty point, the shape does not change

20. Kaori Decoration

1. Shrub floribunda rose, sweet fragrance, tropical fruit scent. Strong fragrance

2. Flower diameter 8-10 cm, height 100 cm

3. Flower form and color: classical flower form, peculiar color, a mix of pink and apricot, beautiful and delicate

4. Excellent disease resistance, suitable for pot culture

Key Points for Winter Management of Potted Roses

Rose

The buds of the rose are very similar to a lotus flower when it is about to bloom, and the fully formed flower of the rose is also very similar to a rose flower. With its rich colors and the faint floral fragrance it gives off when blooming, it is deeply loved by both new and veteran flower enthusiasts. Since ancient times the cultivation rate of roses has always been very high, yet in the process of growing them the question flower enthusiasts care about most is nothing other than how to manage roses in winter! So today the editor will explain in detail several key points of winter management for roses.

1. Careful pruning

In late autumn and early winter, when the temperature drops to 5°C, first cut off dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, crossing branches, overlapping branches, etc., then prune according to the plant's growth vigor. For plants with poor growth vigor, heavy pruning should be carried out, cutting off 2/3 of the whole plant, keeping 3 to 4 main branches 1 to 3 years old, leaving about 20 cm at the base, so that nutrient supply is concentrated, suitable for potted large-flowered rose varieties. For plants with normal growth vigor, moderate pruning should be carried out, cutting off 1/2 of the main branches, suitable for rose varieties that easily sprout branches. For plants with vigorous growth, light pruning should be carried out. Note: when pruning, the blade edge is required to be sharp and the cut smooth. The cut branches and fallen leaves on the ground should be gathered and burned, and the plant should be sprayed once with lime sulfur mixture.

2. Frost protection and wind protection

Cold northern regions: after pruning, take care to prevent dry cold winds from drying out the branches, and take care to prevent freezing; you can spread some loose planting material such as straw, pine needles, etc. on the pot surface, or cover the plant with plastic film, leaving a few air holes, and note that after sunny days the temperature inside the film will rise sharply, so you must open the film, otherwise your treasures will be smothered.

Particularly severe cold regions (below minus 12°): if overwintering outdoors is needed, you can cut the branches short, remove all leaves, lay the plant together with the pot down and bury it in the outdoor soil, covering with a soil layer of more than 20 cm, then cover with some straw, pine needles, etc. for frost protection and overwintering. After it warms up in spring, dig it out and manage it.

South of the Yellow River there is no need for special treatment; as long as the pot soil does not freeze, it can overwinter. If the tender buds on the plant grow early and have not become complete mature compound leaves, it is best to rub them off before the ice and snow days arrive, as the chance of frost damage is very high; just leave about three sturdy un-sprouted buds on each branch.

The dry cold wind in the north is very strong, and combined with dry air and little rain in winter, flower enthusiasts in these dry, windy winter regions should pay attention to wind protection for the plants; potted plants overwintering outdoors should be cut as short as possible, and all leaves removed, to prevent the plants from dehydrating and becoming dead branches! If conditions allow, it is best for flower enthusiasts to move the plants into a well-sealed cold room for overwintering.

3. Watering

During dormancy the water requirement is extremely small (because both temperature and light are low, water evaporation is low, and growth stagnation means very little water is needed); just keep the pot soil from drying out completely and the plant from dehydrating, water less, and the pot soil slightly moist is enough; decide watering time and amount according to the weather, on sunny days you can water a bit more in the morning; in regions where the night temperature drops below freezing, please do not water in the evening, the pot soil may freeze into a lump of ice! Because pot culture is different from ground planting, there is no ground temperature regulation and buffering effect; if the pot soil water content is too large, it will quickly become frozen soil, and once the root system is frozen and damaged it will be completely finished.

Rose

4. Soil replacement, root trimming and fertilizing

During the winter dormant period roses do not need topdressing, but if the potting medium of a potted plant has powdered and compacted, then repotting is needed, removing the old soil, pruning off old roots, and replacing the soil and replanting. If conditions allow, flower enthusiasts can bury organic fertilizer into the pot as base fertilizer; the organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed, with a dry weight of about 100 to 300 grams per pot, depending on pot size. Fertilizer placement: at about half the pot depth, distribute evenly in a ring around the edge of the pot wall, keeping a distance of about 3 cm from the root system, and do not bury it at the pot bottom (frequent watering will cause a large loss of nutrients), which would lose the fertilizing effect.

Suggestion: for potted roses in pots with a diameter of less than 20 cm, there is no need to bury organic fertilizer; even in small amounts, the possibility of burning roots and root rot is very high; just mix granular slow-release fertilizer (please use a legitimate product) into the potting medium.

5. Cuttings from strong branches

For some rose varieties that root easily, such as Elizabeth, Yueyuehong, floribunda, etc., the thick 1-year-old branches cut off can be cut into segments 10 to 12 cm long, with the lower cut at 0.2 cm below the node, using yellow subsoil as the cutting bed; the cutting is inserted to a depth of 4/5 of its total length, keeping only one bud at the end above the soil; after watering thoroughly, build an arch shed, press the plastic film firmly all around, add straw mats for cold protection when the weather is too cold, and by the next spring the lower cut will have healed and rooted. For some rose varieties that root easily, such as Elizabeth, Yueyuehong, floribunda, etc., the thick 1-year-old branches cut off can be cut into segments 10 to 12 cm long, with the lower cut at 0.2 cm below the node, using yellow subsoil as the cutting bed; the cutting is inserted to a depth of 4/5 of its total length, keeping only one bud at the end above the soil; after watering thoroughly, build an arch shed, press the plastic film firmly all around, add straw mats for cold protection when the weather is too cold, and by the next spring the lower cut will have healed and rooted.

6. Transitional management in high-temperature regions

Many southern coastal regions have no real winter, and the average daily temperature at the end of the year does not reach the dormancy threshold of roses. At this time many flower enthusiasts' rose plants can grow normally and do not shed leaves, but they may not necessarily reach the temperature, humidity and light conditions required for flowering. Therefore, when flowering conditions are not available, pruning should still be done as described above, and buds should be rubbed off and tips pinched as much as possible to reduce the fatigue caused to the plant by vegetative growth, water less, use little or no nitrogen fertilizer, or simply do not fertilize, forcing the plant to slow its growth, and then gradually return to normal management in spring. Of course, if flowering conditions are available, you can simply let nature take its course.

Although roses have a spirit of fearing no severe cold and being indomitable, roses grown outdoors in the severe cold of winter are certainly not as good as roses grown indoors, which shows that in winter roses still need careful care; of course, when grown indoors you also cannot be careless, but by doing the above points you can be completely at ease about the problem of roses overwintering.

How to Grow Roses | Factors Affecting the Survival of Rose Grafting

  Grafting can also truly reflect the various traits of the original variety, with extremely strong heredity and stability. Through practical observation, from the day of grafting to the opening of the first flower, a plant formed by grafting and growth takes as little as only 23 days, and individual plants can even bloom 1 to 2 days earlier; most grafted plants usually take about 40 to 45 days to bloom. It can thus be seen that compared with cuttings, grafting can advance the flowering time.

  Taking the Beijing area as an example: on June 15, grafting and cutting were done on the same day; around July 25 about 20% of the grafted plants could bloom, while only about 10% of the cutting seedlings bloomed around September 20 or even later. It can thus be seen that the advantage of grafting is very strong. Of course, grafting propagation is complex to operate and has relatively high technical requirements. Below, the specific issues of grafting propagation are explained one by one.

  1. Factors affecting the survival of grafting 

  1. Selection of rootstock：

  For rose grafting, first of all a suitable grafting rootstock must be selected. The rootstock not only bears the roles of mechanical support and absorption and conduction of water and nutrients, it also controls the plant's function of absorbing organic matter, is responsible for the manufacture of various enzymes and the storage of nutrients, and has a great influence on the various characteristics of the stems, leaves, flowers and fruits of the upper part of the plant. Of course, the scion in turn also plays an important role in the growth and development of the rootstock's root system. Various experiments have proven that the quality of the rootstock is one of the important factors related to whether an ideal grafted rose seedling can be produced. The rootstocks commonly used now are roses and their varieties, such as 'Fentuan' rose, 'Manniti' rose, Dutch rose and Japanese thornless rose, etc. These rose species have developed root systems and are cold-resistant and drought-resistant, with strong affinity for the grafted varieties and stable heredity.

  2. Grafting affinity between rootstock and scion: 

  Grafting affinity refers to the similarity of the internal tissue structure, genetic and physiological characteristics of the rootstock and scion. Through grafting, the plant can be promoted to heal and survive as well as to be physiologically compatible after survival. The manifestation of weak affinity and strong affinity is relatively complex. Generally speaking, the closer the kinship, the stronger the affinity. The affinity between the same variety or the same species is the strongest. The grafting affinity between different species of the same genus varies by species.

  3. Cambium of both rootstock and scion: 

  The cambium parts of both rootstock and scion must have a fairly large area of close contact; this is one of the factors for the survival of grafting. Theoretically, completely aligning the cambium of both rootstock and scion is the most ideal grafting effect, but in actual operation it is very difficult to achieve; one can only aim to achieve the largest possible area of contact.

  4. Temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions during grafting: 

  Temperature is a necessary condition for cell activity; only cell activity, including cell division, can promote the growth of the scion.

  Usually, different varieties of roses can all promote rapid cell growth within a temperature range of 13°C to 32°C. When grafting outdoors, one should choose the period of the year with the above temperatures and with the cambium in vigorous activity. This condition generally occurs in spring, early summer and September and October. The callus tissue grown from the cambium is composed of thin-walled and plump cells, which easily lose water and dry out, causing the scion to dry up and die. Therefore, the joint must be bound tightly to maintain the moisture of the tissue. The rapid division of the healing tissue cells is often accompanied by respiration, at which time oxygen is indispensable. Therefore, using plastic tape to bind the joint has the dual effect of retaining water and promoting respiration.

  5. Quality of rootstock and scion: 

  According to the growth pattern of the rootstock and the comparison of its cutting seedlings and seedling plants, choosing a 1-year-old seedling plant as the rootstock for rose grafting is relatively ideal, because its root system is developed, its disease resistance is strong, and its main stem is smooth and moderate in thickness. Of course, using cutting seedlings for grafting also has its advantages, such as a short cutting time and easy rooting.

  2. Grafting techniques 

  1. Disinfection of knives before grafting: when grafting, while ensuring that the cambium of the rootstock and scion are aligned, it must also be ensured that the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion are flat. The binding action should be nimble and quick, to avoid the cut surface oxidizing and changing color.

  2. Selection and storage of scions: the selection of rose scions is directly related to the survival quality of the grafted seedlings and whether a robust grafted plant can be formed. Stored scions can be taken out for grafting at any time, saving the trouble of collecting them on the spot, saving a lot of time, and allowing grafting at any time. The selection and storage of scions should note the following points:

  (1) The scion wood must be healthy and free of pests and diseases; if there is powdery mildew, black spot or red spider, etc., it cannot be used.

  (2) Usually, 1-year-old or less than 1-year-old post-flowering scion wood can be selected; counting from the second axillary bud below the bract, the entire flowering branch can be used as scion wood. Flowering branches vary in length, long ones can be 150 cm, short ones about 10 cm, and the number of graft buds they contain varies; sometimes on the same scion branch the plumpness and fullness of the graft buds differ, so one should select buds selectively. Generally speaking, the graft buds taken from the middle part of the scion branch are most suitable for grafting, with the best survival rate.

  (3) As long as the scion has plump graft buds, it can be stored for later use at any time of the year; of course, in summer it needs cold storage, and in winter it can be stored in sand. The time for cold storage and sand storage must not be too long; usually the number of scions for cold storage and sand storage should be roughly equal to the number of rootstock plants. Or the number for cold storage or sand storage is decided by the grafting speed. The premise of cold storage and sand storage is that moisture and temperature must be appropriately maintained; only appropriate moisture and temperature maintenance can maintain the normal physiological activity of the scion wood. Practice has proven that scientific cold storage and sand storage are beneficial to the survival rate and survival quality of grafting.

  3. Grafting period 

  According to the growth habits and growth patterns of roses, grafting can be carried out at any time of the year, but specific situations must be analyzed specifically. When the temperature reaches above 33°C the survival rate of grafting is relatively reduced, and below 5°C the grafted plant is in a dormant state, so using the winter dormant period for grafting is suitable.

  4. Grafting methods 

  According to current production practice and the mainstream methods of rose grafting, rose grafting methods can be divided into woody chip budding, T-shaped budding, large open-door budding, and rootless rootstock grafting.

  1. Woody chip budding:

(1) On the sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm from the ground, use a single-edge safety razor blade to cut a shield-shaped incision 1 to 2 cm long at an oblique angle of 30° to 40° (as in Figure 1). Then, using the same method and the same size, select a plump and full graft bud on the scion wood (as in Figure 2) and insert it into the already cut rootstock incision, and use a white plastic tape of moderate elasticity and width to bind it firmly ring by ring from bottom to top, with moderate tightness (as in Figure 3).

  (2) When inserting the graft bud into the incision, the cambium should be aligned over as large an area as possible, so as not to expose the rootstock xylem. This method is simple and quick to operate and has a relatively high survival rate, but it has high technical requirements, and one must master the technique of matching the rootstock and scion in one go.

  2. T-shaped budding:

T-shaped budding is likewise a popular method in current rose grafting production.

  (1) Using a short-bladed vertical knife, make a horizontal cut on the sunny side of the rootstock at 4 to 6 cm above the ground where there are no branches, about 5 to 8 mm wide, with the depth just reaching the xylem; then make a vertical cut downward from the middle of the horizontal cut, about 1.5 to 2 cm long, so that the bark forms a T-shaped opening (as shown in Figure 4).

  (2) Cut the scion shoot from the mother plant, remove the leaves but keep the petioles, select a plump and full bud, and use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.5 cm above it, going about 3 mm deep into the xylem; then use the knife to push and cut upward from about 0.5 cm below the bud, just reaching the xylem, up to the cut above the bud.

  (3) Use the knife to lift open the bark at the T-shaped cut on the rootstock, insert the bud into the cut, and after insertion make fine adjustments so that the horizontal cut of the bud aligns with the horizontal cut of the rootstock without exposing the rootstock cambium; one-time placement is ideal (as shown in Figure 5). Once the bud is properly placed, bind it with plastic tape, and the bud must be left exposed when binding (as shown in Figure 6). Although this method seems cumbersome and time-consuming, once proficient, one plant can be grafted within one minute, and the grafting survival rate is extremely high, with excellent quality of survival.

  3. Open-door budding:

The open-door budding method is also a very popular grafting method at present. It has high technical requirements, and the exposure time of the rootstock and scion cuts must not be too long. The key operating points are as follows:

  (1) On the smooth, branchless sunny side of the rootstock at 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut, with the depth just reaching the xylem; then align with one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, and then make another cut in the same way at the other end of the horizontal cut. Both cuts should just reach the xylem; then make another horizontal cut about 0.5 cm below the horizontal cut, and use the knife to remove a small square piece of bark so that the xylem is exposed, then lift it open with the knife (as shown in Figure 7).

  (2) Remove the leaves from the scion shoot but keep the petioles, select a plump and full bud, and use the knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.3 cm above the bud; then align with one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, then make another vertical cut in the same way at the other end of the horizontal cut, and then make a horizontal cut aligned with the two vertical cuts to form a rectangular bud piece with the bud (as shown in Figure 8); all four cuts should reach the xylem.

  (3) Use a knife or your hand to lift open the bark of the rootstock, insert the bud quickly and make fine adjustments. Align the two horizontal cuts of the rootstock and scion (as shown in Figure 9), and bind with plastic tape, with appropriate tightness (as shown in Figure 10). When this method is used for grafting, the contact area between the cambium of the rootstock and scion is large, and supply is rapid, which can greatly increase the survival rate and quality of survival.

  4. Rootless rootstock grafting:

Rootless rootstock grafting is grafting onto already lignified new branches of rootless roses, followed by cutting propagation. This method of rose grafting propagation meets the needs of factory-style, specialized, and large-scale production and is not limited by season. Carrying out all-weather assembly-line production indoors can greatly improve production efficiency, survival rate, and quality of survival. For rootless rootstock grafting, several methods such as the woody patch budding, T-shaped budding, and open-door budding described above can be used. When this method is used for propagation in summer, the bud must retain 1 to 2 leaves, and moisture-retention care should be carried out after cutting. If rootless rootstock grafting and cutting are carried out in a greenhouse in winter, the nighttime greenhouse temperature must not be lower than 5°C; for cutting in a sunny cold frame, cold-protection measures should be strengthened to avoid frost damage.

  Whether rootless rootstock grafting is carried out in summer or winter, the cutting density of the cuttings after grafting is sparser than that of ordinary rose cuttings. When cutting, the cuttings should all lean north at 70°, while the bud side faces the sunny direction.

  Technical requirements: plant and row spacing 5 cm×5 cm, cutting depth about 3 cm.