How to grow potted tulips? Cultivation methods and pest and disease control
How to cultivate potted tulips? Many flower enthusiasts like to grow a pot of tulips at home; they not only decorate the home but are also pleasing to the eye. Tulips are suited to open-field planting, but the soil capacity in a flower pot is limited and often cannot meet the needs of tulip growth. Therefore, when growing tulips in pots, variety selection, substrate preparation, planting method and post-planting management are all very important. Below, let's learn together about potted tulip techniques and cultivation management, pest and disease control.
1 Potted tulip cultivation methods
1.1 Variety selection
There are many tulip varieties and they are richly diverse. For potting, it is best to choose short-statured varieties. Plants that are too tall have weak lodging resistance. Choose tulip bulbs that are brightly colored, with large and full flowers, of superior bulb quality, plump and fat, with no wounds on the surface, a hard and heavy feel when held, free of pests and diseases, and with a bulb circumference of 10 ~ 12 cm.
1.2 Pots
There are many kinds of containers to choose from for tulips: plastic, porcelain, wooden, clay pots, from large 1 ~ 2 m flower tubs down to small 10 ~ 15 cm flower pots, all can be used for planting, but in terms of material, unglazed clay pots and plastic pots are best, and the bottom must have drainage holes. When some flower pots are displayed and placed for special needs, for the sake of appearance they can be slipped into plastic colored pots of similar shape and various colors, depending on the specific need. Choosing the depth of the flower pot is also very important. The quality of tulip root growth directly affects the flowering quality of tulips, because if the pot is too shallow, it is not conducive to the root growth of the tulip bulbs; root growth is restricted, which seriously affects the roots' absorption of nutrients and water from the soil, and the plant becomes weak and slender with small flowers. Therefore, the depth of the chosen flower pot is best 15 ~ 20 cm.
1.3 Potting soil
Choose peat soil or humus soil with good drainage and rich organic matter as the growing substrate. Mix garden soil, grass peat and river sand in a ratio of 3:2:1, with a suitable pH value of 6.6 ~ 7. Soak the bulbs in 500 times carbendazim for 20 ~ 30 min to disinfect, then rinse clean with clear water, and plant the rinsed and air-dried bulbs in the flower pot.
1.4 Planting method and density
First spread a little gravel at the bottom of the pot to help drainage, then put the prepared soil into the flower pot. Before planting, in order to speed up tulip rooting, remove the brown skin around the root plate at the bottom of the bulb, then arrange the bulbs; the number of bulbs placed depends on the size of the flower pot, and the distance between bulbs is best 2 ~ 3 cm. Place the bulbs upright in the flower pot with the bud tip pointing up, and cover the tops of the bulbs with 5 cm of potting soil.
2 Cultivation management
Tulips are best planted by early October, which basically matches the open-field planting time. Then place the flower pots planted with tulips outdoors in the open field; according to the number and size of the flower pots, dig trenches in the open field, place the flower pots side by side in the trenches, with the height of the trench level with the top of the flower pots, and backfill soil around them and in the gaps between pots. On the day of planting, water the tulips thoroughly and evenly once; the principle is "water at the right time, water in the right amount." Do not water too much or too often, otherwise the potting soil will be too wet and cause the bulbs to rot. This period is the rooting stage of tulips; the quality of watering directly affects tulip root growth. The substrate must not be too dry and can be kept moist for a long time. The amount of watering should also depend on the specific situation, on different weather and growth and development conditions at different stages. By early November, cover the pots with grass pieces for winter cold protection. In the spring of the 2nd year, as the temperature rises, the surface begins to thaw; remove the cold-protection grass mats, so as to remove the backfilled soil and take out the flower pots, around early April. Move the flower pots to a ventilated and bright place; shade them during high temperature, strong sun or at noon. Water appropriately according to cloudy or sunny weather and high or low temperatures; do not let them dry out or become waterlogged, and always keep the potting soil moist. After flowering, control water appropriately. During the tulip growing period, apply a dilute foliar fertilizer about 1 time per week.
3 Tulip pest and disease control
3.1 Blue mold
After injured bulbs have been stored for a period of time, the scales of the bulb show fading, and green fungi cover the inside of the scales. Control methods: prevent the bulbs from being injured; keep air circulating and flowing when storing bulbs; do not plant bulbs that have already been infected or damaged.
3.2 Root rot
Part of the roots rot; infected roots become waxy and turn the local soil around the roots brown. When root rot is severe, it causes flower wilting, producing flower fragments attached to shorter plants.
Control methods: before planting in continuous cropping land, disinfect the soil with chloropicrin. Disinfect the bulbs with benomyl, ensure soil air permeability, and avoid water accumulation. For the first 2 weeks after planting, ensure the soil temperature is below 10 °C and must not exceed 12 °C.
3.3 Bud leaf blight
Orange-brown patches and streaks appear on the outside of the buds, and there are water droplets on these spots, as if there are gnawed marks. The symptoms will not develop further, and the plant usually can flower normally, but the top leaves are damaged. Control methods: disinfect infected soil; spray mancozeb and anilazine; the disinfection depth is 15 cm. Disinfect the bulbs with benomyl and captan, and do not plant in continuous cropping with tomato, chrysanthemum or cereal grain crops.
3.4 Gray mold
The bulbs become completely or partially soft, and a large number of black conidia are produced in the diseased area. After the aboveground part is infected, the plant is fragile; severely infected plants are very short or do not develop at all. Control methods: improve substrate permeability, strengthen soil disinfection, treat the bulbs with fungicide before planting, and check promptly after planting to remove bulbs with growth disorders.
3.5 Fusarium
During the storage period, gray-brown spots appear on infected bulbs, sometimes with concentric rings and obvious yellow edges. In a humid environment, diseased bulbs are covered with white to pink fungi, have a special odor and release ethylene. The bulbs shrivel; when squeezed by hand, the inside makes a crackling sound. Control methods: store lightly infected bulbs properly and ensure normal storage temperature and humidity conditions; diseased bulbs in the field should be removed as early as possible, otherwise they will release ethylene, thereby causing gummosis-like bud splitting, bud necrosis and flower blight; bulbs must be disinfected before planting. When planting, the soil temperature must be below 10 °C and must never exceed 13 °C.
3.6 Soft rot
The bulbs rot and turn into a muddy substance, forming a white slimy material; first the leaf tips turn pale red, and afterward the whole leaf discolors and withers. Control methods: disinfect the bulbs with chloramphenicol; other methods are the same as for root rot.
The above are all the key points of potted tulip techniques. Friends who want to grow potted tulips at home should study them well!
Pest and disease control for potted flowers
The principles of flower pest and disease control are: prevention first, integrated management. The following should be done:1. Strengthen quarantine: when introducing flowers, be careful not to bring back harmful organisms and pathogens. This is currently a major problem in flower production and must receive sufficient attention from business departments, flower farmers and flower enthusiasts.
2. Protect natural enemies: such as ladybugs, aphidid wasps, aphid flies, large red mites, etc., as well as various spiders on the ground and on plants, and toads, frogs, beneficial birds, etc., are all to be protected.
3. Light and color trapping: 24 pairs of black light lamps can be used to trap and kill some phototactic pests.
4. Heat treatment: if there are bulb mites harming the bulbs of narcissus, tulips, gladiolus, etc., the bulbs can be given hot water treatment, soaking in 44 °C water for 4 hours or in 45 °C hot water for 3 hours, which can kill all root mites.
5. Manual capture: this method can be used for household flowers.
6. Chemical control: common underground pests mainly include: white grubs (white soil worms); control methods:
① Pour 50% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate 100-1500 times solution at the root zone; the mortality rate can reach 100%; with 2000 times solution it can also reach 98.3%.
② Pour 50% phosphamidon emulsifiable concentrate 1500-2000 times solution at the root zone; the mortality rate can reach 100%; with 2500 times solution it can also reach 92.5%.
Ant control methods: use 70% mirex powder, directly sprinkle it on the soil surface at the root zone where there are ant colonies, or around ant nests and ant trails, or mix it into bait and scatter it. In addition, spraying powders such as lindane, chlordane and heptachlor on the soil surface where ants are active also has good results.
Snail and slug control methods:
① Pour tea seed cake water (water soak 1:15) around the root zone of the damaged flowers, or scatter soaked tea seed cake crumbs;
② Scatter 8% metaldehyde granules on the soil surface around the root zone; the effective ingredient of metaldehyde is. Earthworm control methods: use chlordane, or heptachlor, carbaryl powder (1-1.5 grams per square meter) or pour tea seed cake water (water soak 1:15).
Millipede (Julus) control methods: use 25% carbaryl or 25% diazinon, add water to make a 500 times solution and apply to the soil surface inside and outside the pot.
Main types of leaf-eating pests and their control: Slug moth control methods:
① Use parasite protectors to protect natural enemies. During the emergence period of slug moths (late May to mid-June), use black light lamps to trap and kill adults;
② In the young instar stage or before the larvae gather and disperse, spray 50% fenitrothion or 50% phoxim each at 800-**** times solution; or 10-20% pyrethroid 1000-2000 times solution;
③ Spraying Br emulsion containing 10 billion/ton spores diluted 500 times with water also has a limited good effect. The ingredient metaldehyde has a good effect.
Bagworm (also called bag moth) control methods:
① Protect and utilize the dominant natural enemy, the tachinid fly,
② Use black light lamps to trap and kill male adults; use Br emulsion or Br emulsion or Br-NPV microbial mixture, so that BBt spores contain 5-10.7 NPV particles per ml, each containing 1×10.6, with good results.
③ Spraying 50% phoxim 1000 times solution is highly effective.
Tussock moth control methods:
① During the adult emergence period, use black light lamps to trap and kill them; before overwintering, tie grass bundles on the main trunks of woody flowers to attract mature larvae, then kill them;
② Spray 50% fenitrothion or 50% phoxim 1000 times solution, or synthetic pyrethroids 1000-2000 times solution.
Main types of piercing-sucking mouthpart pests and their control:
Green peach aphid and cotton aphid control methods:
① Use yellow plastic boards coated with heavy oil in the field to trap and attract winged aphids.
② Protect natural enemies; besides parasitic aphidid wasps and predatory aphid flies and ladybugs, there are also pathogenic microorganisms such as aphid fungi.
③ Chemical control:
a. Botanical agents: 3% natural pyrethrin, 25% derris extract, 40% nicotine sulfate, all can be diluted to 800-**** times solution; the effect is good and safe;
b. Synthetic pyrethroids such as: deltamethrin, cypermethrin, permethrin, fenvalerate, etc.; their effective content is mostly 20%, and they can be diluted with water 2000-3000 times; they have a rapid knockdown effect, but resistance is easily developed;
c. 40% acephate emulsifiable concentrate (orthene) 1000 times solution; 40% omethoate has good systemic and translaminar properties; spray at 2000 times solution, or paint stems at 50-100 times solution.
Red wax scale control methods:
① During the hatching period, spray 40% omethoate or 50% fenitrothion, 50% monocrotophos 1000 times solution, or 20% fenvalerate 1500-2000 times solution; from early June, spray once every 10 days or so on sunny days, for 3 consecutive sprays, to achieve the desired effect.
② Protect the natural enemies Chilocorus kuwanae and Chilocorus mongolicus (for mealybugs, refer to the same control methods). Main types of boring pests and their control: Longhorn beetle control methods:
① On sunny middays, adults often crawl from the crown to the trunk base to mate and lay eggs, and are very easy to catch.
② Because their boreholes are not deep and are generally in the bark and tender branches, once bore dust is found being expelled, they can be picked out and killed with a small knife.
③ Release the dominant natural enemy, the tachinid fly.
④ Paint the trunk base white (ratio: lime sulfur 10:1 salt, appropriate amount of water).
Carpenter moth control methods:
① Use black light lamps to trap and kill adults.
② Prune off and collect wind-broken branches and burn them promptly.
③ Use a mixture of fenitrothion and omethoate for trunk injection into the boreholes.
The main types of infectious plant diseases are:
1. Damping-off: also called seedling blight, mainly harming the seedlings of various plants. Control methods:
① For seed disinfection, use 0.3% thiram for seed dressing.
② At the early stage of disease, trial spray 50% captan 500 times solution, or 75% chlorothalonil 800 times solution, spraying 1-2 times, or 60% carbendazim 500 times solution twice a week, with 3-4 days between each spray, to inhibit its spread.
2. Southern blight (seedling sclerotial basal disease): control methods:
① Mix soil with 70% quintozene.
② Change the soil.
③ Rotate crops for more than 4 years.
④ Add 0.7 kg of Trichoderma harzianum to 50 kg of culture soil for potting use.
⑤ Ventilate appropriately and avoid overly dense cultivation.
3. Powdery mildew control methods:
① Apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and use disease-resistant varieties.
② At the early stage of disease, spray 25% triadimefon wettable powder 2000 times solution, or 20% triadimefon emulsion 4000 times solution, or 70% thiophanate-methyl 1000 times solution, or dexon 1000 times solution.
4. Downy mildew: control method: at the early stage of disease, spray 50% zineb 600 times solution, 20% metalaxyl (ridomil) 400 times solution, or 50% yijing 4000 times solution; all are effective.
5. Rust control methods:
① Selection of mother plants;
② Spray 40% triadimefon 4000 times solution, or 20% triadimefon emulsifiable concentrate 2000 times solution; or spray 20% triadimefon emulsifiable concentrate 2000 times solution; or use 20% azinphos-ethyl emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution for control.
6. Gray mold control methods: within March to April, use 80% zineb 500 times solution, 1% Bordeaux mixture, 50% dicloran 1000 times solution, or 75% chlorothalonil 500% times solution; choose any one and spray once every 10 days, 2-3 times.
7. Anthracnose control methods:
① Strengthen environmental hygiene and maintenance management;
② When disease occurs, prune off diseased branches and burn the diseased pests, then spray 1:1:100 Bordeaux mixture for protection and to prevent spread, or spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500 times solution, or 50% thiophanate wettable powder 500 times solution 3-4 times, spraying once every 10-14 days.
8. Leaf spot control methods:
① Choose disease-resistant varieties;
② You may use 75% chlorothalonil, 50% thiram zinc, or 50% dexon; choose any one at a concentration of 500 times solution, spraying once about every 10 days.
9. Fusarium wilt control methods:
① Crop rotation;
② On sunny days, dig and choose sandy soil with loose texture;
③ Before planting, soak the bulbs in 50% carbendazim 500 times solution for half an hour, then dress with 50% thiram powder before planting.
Potted tulip cultivation methods
Tulips originated in the ancient Western Regions of China and the ** area of Tibet. As early as more than 1,300 years ago, the great Tang dynasty poet Li Bai left the line "Orchid fine wine tulips, jade bowls filled with amber light," which is clear evidence. Later they spread via the Silk Road to Central Asia, and from Central Asia into Europe and all parts of the world. At present they are planted all over the world and are the national flower of the Netherlands, New Zealand, Iran, Turkey, Turkmenistan and other countries. They are called the queen of flowers and have become a symbol representing fashion and internationalization. Today I will briefly introduce the potted cultivation methods of tulips.
Soil requirements:
The potting soil should be evenly mixed with 6 parts leaf mold, 3 parts sandy soil and 1 part decomposed manure. A flower pot with a diameter of 20 cm can hold 3 plants per pot. After sprouting and emerging, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer about once every 10 days, and apply an additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once from bud formation to before flowering. Always keep the potting soil moist and place it in a sunny place for care.
Temperature conditions:
Tulips like a climate with warm winters and cool summers, and the suitable growth temperature is 9-13 °C. They are highly cold-resistant and can withstand low temperatures of -35 °C in winter. But they avoid high temperatures. Under cool and cold conditions, tulips not only have bright flower colors but also a long flowering period. If the temperature is too high, the flowers easily decline, which seriously affects ornamental value. Light conditions:
Tulips like strong light, and light is an important limiting factor for their flowering. During cultivation, ensure that the plants receive no less than 8 hours of direct sunlight every day. This helps tulips accumulate more photosynthetic products, which not only ensures good plant growth but also ensures normal flower opening.
Fertilization methods:
In controlling the flowering period of tulips, usually when they grow 2-3 leaves and after the flower scape is drawn, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer rich in phosphorus and potassium once each; this can basically ensure normal flowering of tulips. If growth vigor is weak, some nitrogen fertilizer can be applied to promote vigorous tulip growth.
Watering methods:
After planting, water thoroughly so that the soil and bulbs can fully combine closely, which is beneficial for rooting. After sprouting, control water appropriately. When the leaves gradually extend, spray water on the leaf surface to increase air humidity. During the scape-drawing period and bud stage, ensure sufficient water to promote full flower development. After flowering, control water appropriately.
Pest and disease control:
The main diseases of tulips include stem rot, soft rot, color breaking, damping-off, blind buds, etc., and the pests are mostly aphids. When diseased plants are found, dig them out promptly and destroy them, and apply fungicide 1-2 times. At the same time, maintain good ventilation and avoid high temperature and high humidity. When aphids occur, spray 3% natural pyrethrin 800 times solution to kill them.
The above is the potted tulip cultivation method introduced to you by the editor. I hope it is helpful to you!