Key Technical Points for Mother Plant Cultivation Management and Pest and Disease Control of Phalaenopsis

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Phalaenopsis is currently mainly sold as commercial potted plants and cut flowers. Most native Phalaenopsis species have small flowers with inconspicuous colors. Commercially cultivated Phalaenopsis are varieties developed through artificial hybridization and selection, with rich and varied flower colors and forms, and flowers and flower types of different sizes. Today we will learn together about mother plant cultivation management techniques for Phalaenopsis.

1 Mother Plant Cultivation Management of Phalaenopsis

Mother plants are the foundation of Phalaenopsis breeding. As germplasm resources for breeding, they require stricter, more scientific and more refined management. Each aspect of care has special requirements.

1.1 Introduction of Mother Plants

1.1.1 Introduction Methods

They can be obtained by purchasing native germplasm resources or varieties, or by evaluating and selecting excellent individual plants with outstanding performance and stable genes from the progeny of hybrid breeding.

1.1.2 Storage and Re-selection of Initially Selected Mother Plants After Introduction. First place them in a buffer mother plant greenhouse. After disinfection, sterilization and insecticide treatment, carry out plant physical examination immediately the next day. The examination contents are as follows:

1) Overall: Check whether the identity number is accurate and whether the whole plant is healthy and normal.

2) Roots: Check whether the roots have rot, dead roots and plumpness.

3) Stem: Check whether the stem is plump and whether there are signs of pest or disease occurrence.

4) Leaves: Check whether the leaves are intact, whether there is damage, and whether pests or diseases are present.

5) Flowers: Check whether the flowers are intact and normal and whether there are signs of pest or disease occurrence (omit if there are no flowers).

After the initial inspection, further observation and care are carried out for about 1 to 3 months (some require one year or even longer) until the requirements are met. During this stage, strict and careful in-depth observation and screening are carried out. The key work during this period is to keep tracking records of variety traits and cultivation records. This content will provide accurate technical guidance reference for the future.

1.1.3 Final Selection and Filing of Retained Mother Plants. After initial selection, the finally selected varieties undergo the following work: video and photo recording; numbering; file creation (including variety traits, cultivation records, time and place of introduction, etc.); finally determined as mother plants. Finally, after disinfection and sterilization, they are transferred to the mother plant greenhouse for permanent care and management.

1.2 Care and Management

1.2.1 Management Requirements. High-quality water source, sufficient light (10 to 14 h of light), appropriate temperature control (20 to 28 degrees C), good ventilation environment, careful garden inspection work, and clean surrounding environment.

1.2.2 Daily Management of Mother Plants. Daily management is strictly carried out according to the formulated mother plant care and management plan.

1) Temperature control: Control the nighttime temperature at 22 to 23 degrees C, and the extreme low temperature should not be lower than 18 degrees C. On the night just after watering, the temperature should not be lower than 22 degrees C. Maintain the daytime temperature at 27 to 28 degrees C. Extreme temperatures above 35 degrees C in summer or below 15 degrees C in winter should not persist.

2) Light control: Control light at 15,000 to 20,000 Lux in summer and autumn, and at about 20,000 to 25,000 Lux in winter and spring.

3) Humidity control: 65% to 75% is optimal.

4) Ventilation: When the room temperature is above 28 degrees C, ventilation and air exchange are needed. When necessary, start fans to extract air. In winter, exchange air once daily or every other day. The airflow created by ventilation forces carbon dioxide to penetrate into cells, brings sufficient oxygen to the roots, and promotes robust plant growth. Avoid poor ventilation, which leads to the breeding of pests and diseases and the dropping of flowers and buds.

5) Watering and fertilizing: Apply light fertilizer frequently, and determine the fertilization amount according to the EC value. Watering and fertilizing are carried out alternately.

6) Precautions: Garden inspection work should be meticulous. Handle abnormal situations in a timely manner. Once problem plants are found, immediately isolate and handle them until they return to normal, then put them back. If they cannot recover, immediately eliminate them. Note that hands must not continuously touch the plants. Facilities must be comprehensively disinfected regularly.

1.2.3 Rejuvenation Management of Mother Plants. During mother plant care, if viral infection is found, the plants, planting material and pots must be destroyed immediately (isolate extremely important ones).

1) Prevent viral infection of mother plants. Up to now, at least 28 viruses have infected orchid plants. According to surveys, viruses infecting orchid plants in China are mostly mixed infections of Cymbidium mosaic virus (CyMV) and Odontoglossum ringspot virus (ORSV), and a small number of Phalaenopsis are infected with Cucumber mosaic virus (CMV). This is mainly caused by human transmission during cultivation.

Control methods:

(1) Plant virus-free seedlings. Before introduction, virus identification must be carried out first, and introduction can be done only after confirming they are virus-free.

(2) Carry out virus identification on plants suspected of carrying viruses. Once virus infection is confirmed, immediately destroy the plants, planting material and pots.

(3) Avoid any habit that causes plant injury. For example, avoid overly vigorous washing during watering to reduce the chance of leaf friction injury between plants.

(4) Do not reuse untreated planting material and pots.

(5) Arrange planting density reasonably to reduce the chance of mechanical friction injury between plants; avoid three-dimensional planting and prevent irrigation water from flowing between different plants.

(6) Mother plants must undergo virus identification before meristem culture.

(7) When transplanting seedlings, avoid soaking them together in the same container for pesticide treatment.

(8) Tools used for cutting flowers or operations must be disinfected.

2) Repotting and rejuvenation of mother plants. Aging of plants leads to quality degradation and loss of the original value of mother plants. Repotting mother plants at the right time and in the right way is a very effective cultivation method to prolong the life of mother plants. The procedure is as follows:

(1) Determine the repotting time: before new buds sprout in spring or after flowering. At this time, nutrients are concentrated and disease resistance is strong.

(2) Make preparations: choose a good substrate. The substrate should have good drainage and air permeability and moderate water retention. Commonly used ones include sphagnum moss, bark, charcoal, coconut shell and ceramsite; control moisture well.

(3) Specific content: First clean away rotten roots, bad roots and yellow leaves, then spray fungicide, then wash with clean water and drain, then transfer to a pot one size larger and add substrate. Finally, record and attach a label. (Note: Scissors used for pruning must be disinfected after each use, and do not injure leaves when repotting.)

(4) Management work after repotting: After repotting, the plants are quite weak, so immediately spray chemicals for sterilization. Control water to promote rooting for at least three days. Before new roots grow out at the edge of the pot, do not water thoroughly. Before new leaves emerge and new roots at the edge of the pot obviously elongate, do not rush to fertilize. When new leaves begin to emerge, use 30-10-10 or 20-20-20 Peter's Professional at 2,000 to 3,000 times solution as foliar fertilizer, once every 10 days. Within two weeks after planting, control light at about 10,000 Lux, then gradually return to normal, and a temperature of 20 to 22 degrees C is sufficient.

Within one month, inspection work must be strengthened every day. If abnormal plants are found, handle them immediately. Pests and diseases are especially likely to invade during this period. For plants after repotting, root cultivation is the focus, and disease control is the key.

1.3 Anti-flowering Treatment of Phalaenopsis Mother Plants

1.3.1 Conditions to be met. When mother plants are very weak, reproductive growth should be inhibited and vegetative growth promoted, and anti-flowering treatment should be carried out on the plants. During treatment, the following must be met:

1) The treatment does not affect the health status of the orchid seedlings. Growth vigor and nutrient content are not lost.

2) After the treatment stops, reproductive growth of the orchid seedlings is easily induced and quickly reaches the effect of spike emergence.

3) The success rate of anti-flowering forcing technology must be high.

1.3.2 Variety Classification. According to variety characteristics, Phalaenopsis can be divided into the following four categories (explained using daytime low-temperature accumulation (AD) and nighttime low-temperature accumulation (AN):

1) The sum of AD and AN is greater than a specific value. Both daytime and nighttime temperatures in the greenhouse must be lower than the specific flowering forcing temperature.

2) Daytime low-temperature treatment (AD) is not the main influencing factor; nighttime low-temperature treatment (AN) is the main influencing factor, and when it is greater than a specific value, flower spikes emerge. To emerge flower spikes, low temperature must be maintained at night.

3) Daytime low-temperature treatment (AD) is the main factor, and when it is greater than a specific value, flower spikes emerge. Nighttime low temperature is less important. If the daytime greenhouse temperature cannot be lower than the flowering forcing temperature, nighttime low-temperature treatment has little effect on flowering.

4) Regarding the temperature accumulation value, regardless of day or night, as long as the low-temperature accumulation of either daytime or nighttime is lower than a specific value, flower spikes can be forced out.

1.3.3 Environmental Control Technology Regulation for Anti-forcing in Different Strain Types:

Type 1 strains: Because both daytime and nighttime low temperatures are required for flowering forcing, adjusting either daytime or nighttime temperature can inhibit flower spike emergence, and heating during the day requires lower energy.

Type 2 strains: Nighttime accumulation is the main influencing factor, so inhibit flower spike emergence by adjusting nighttime temperature.

Type 3 strains: Daytime accumulation is the main influencing factor, so adjust daytime temperature to achieve the anti-forcing effect.

Type 4 strains: Because low-temperature effects in either daytime or nighttime affect the flowering rate, both day and night temperature adjustment must be carried out to inhibit flowering.

1.3.4 To meet the requirements of anti-forcing while maintaining sound nutrients in orchid plants, reasonable techniques are as follows:

1) Understand the optimal cultivation environment for the orchid strain, including daytime and nighttime temperature, humidity, light amount, photoperiod, etc.

2) From the above environment required for vegetative growth, understand the temperature required for flowering forcing and the effect of daytime/nighttime low-temperature accumulation on flower spike emergence.

3) Fertilize the plants appropriately. When flowering is needed, adjust fertilizer composition and light amount to promote plant maturity.

4) When the temperature is too low during all cultivation periods, orchid seedlings do not have a "low-temperature accumulation" effect. The key to success or failure lies in the setting of daytime and nighttime temperatures. The set temperature does not need to be too high; maintaining it at the optimal temperature for vegetative growth can achieve the effect of inhibiting flowering.

5) Different varieties have different temperature requirements, so carefully selecting varieties, understanding variety characteristics and adjusting in a timely manner are the keys to success in anti-forcing rejuvenation of seedlings.

2 Pest and Disease Control of Mother Plants

Disease prevention is routine work. The cultivation environment must have good ventilation, suitable temperature and air humidity, and regular disinfection and sterilization. Once pests or diseases occur, apply pesticides in a timely manner for control.

2.1 Main Diseases

2.1.1 Bacterial diseases: Pathogens mostly reproduce within plant tissues. After maturing, the affected areas appear water-soaked, and when punctured they have a foul odor.

1) Soft rot: The pathogen can infect leaves, roots and stems.

Control methods: Maintain a good ventilation environment. Plant placement density should be moderate, avoiding crowding from dense planting and injury from leaf friction. Ensure sufficient light and avoid excessive vegetative growth. In summer, water with fertilizer in the morning to avoid leaf water accumulation remaining undried at night. Disinfect the greenhouse regularly. Spray with 99% tetracycline at 3,000 times solution or agricultural streptomycin at 2,000 times solution.

2) Brown spot: The brown spot pathogen can infect different parts of Phalaenopsis leaves at all ages.

The pathogen has polar flagella and can swim in water. It grows well at 20 to 32 degrees C, with an optimum temperature of 28 degrees C, a maximum temperature of about 40 degrees C and a minimum temperature of about 12 degrees C. However, it occurs most severely in hot and humid summers. When the environment is suitable, it invades and infects through leaf wounds or natural openings. The peak disease period overlaps with that of soft rot.

Control methods: Same as soft rot.

2.1.2 Fungal diseases: This pathogen grows on the leaves and stems of Phalaenopsis as spiderweb-like hyphae, destroys plant tissues, and spreads by spores. Infection occurs through contact between plants.

1) Southern blight: It damages the stem base and root system of Phalaenopsis from seedlings to adult plants. This pathogen can infect roots and leaves, causing root rot and leaf soft rot. It mostly occurs in spring.

Control methods: Strengthen greenhouse ventilation, disinfect sphagnum moss, collect diseased plants and diseased leaves and burn them, and use mancozeb at 1,000 times solution and Topsin-M at 1,500 times solution.

2) Leaf spot: It mostly occurs on Phalaenopsis leaves and is prone to occur under conditions of low temperature and high humidity, poor ventilation, insufficient light, heavy medium, poor drainage and overly dense plant placement.

Control methods: Spray with thiophanate-methyl at 1,000 times solution, mancozeb at 1,000 times solution, and carbendazim at 1,000 times solution.

3) Phytophthora blight: This pathogen belongs to the flagellate fungi and can swim freely in water. It easily occurs under high humidity conditions, invading from root tips or the rhizome, and can also invade leaves through water droplets. It is seriously harmful to seedlings just out of the flask and repotted plants. All parts of the plant can be affected.

Control methods: Strengthen ventilation; after repotting, spray a little more wetly so that the solution reaches the stem; spray with Previcur at 1,000 times solution and iprodione at 1,000 times solution.

4) Gray mold: It mostly occurs on flowers and is prone to occur under low temperature and high humidity and during the plum rain season. At first, small water-soaked spots appear on the petals, and the small spots expand into round lesions, causing flower blight. When the temperature rises and greenhouse air humidity decreases, this disease gradually decreases.

Control methods: During flowering, control the relative humidity in the greenhouse to no higher than 80%; when flower buds are swelling and opening, spray with iprodione at 1,500 times solution and procymidone at 2,000 times solution.

5) Fusarium disease: Caused by Fusarium, it invades from roots, stems and petioles through contact during repotting, watering and other methods. In hot and rainy seasons, too much watering, constantly moist root zones and excessive nitrogen fertilizer application make the disease more likely to occur.

Control methods: Maintain good ventilation and sunlight conditions. Disinfect sphagnum moss. Avoid splashing water droplets when watering. Spray with benomyl at 1,000 times solution, and one week after transplanting drench with 1,500 times solution. Spray with Topsin at 1,000 times solution.

6) Anthracnose: It easily occurs when plants are too dense, ventilation is poor, conditions are warm and humid, water balance is disturbed, and there is sun injury, fertilizer injury or pesticide injury.

Control methods: Do not plant too densely. Light, drainage and ventilation must be good. Spray with mancozeb at 1,000 times solution, Sportak at 1,000 times solution, and Topsin-M at 1,000 times solution.

2.2 Main Pests

2.2.1 Thrips: Both adults and larvae damage flowers, often causing white spots on petals, and petals become twisted, shrunken or unable to extend normally. March to April and September to December each year are peak damage periods.

Control methods: Before flower buds fully open, spray chlorpyrifos at 1,000 times on the surface of stems and leaves, once every 5 to 7 days. Carbofuran granules can be placed on the medium surface so that the active ingredients are absorbed by the roots and then transported to the stems and leaves.

2.2.2 Scale insects: They gather and live together. The white waxy secretions on the body surface of clustered male insects mix with each other, much like cotton fluff. August of each year to May of the following year is the peak damage period.

Control methods: Prevent orchid seedlings infected with scale insects from entering the greenhouse. If found, remove them with wet cotton or a soft brush. Remove severely damaged leaves. Strengthen greenhouse ventilation. Spray with 50% malathion at 1,000 times solution or Sumithion at 2,000 times solution, once a week, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

2.2.3 Mites: They prefer dry climate environments and have strong reproductive capacity, and can cause large-scale damage in a short time. They often inhabit the underside of leaves and use piercing-sucking mouthparts to absorb nutrients from the underside of leaves and gnaw the epidermal tissue on the underside, causing the damaged areas to become mottled with a silvery sheen. When the stem base is damaged, affected plants grow slowly, leaves are small, flower spikes are thin and the number of flowers is few. April to June and October to December each year are peak damage periods.

Control methods: Before transplanting, spray orchid seedlings preventively, and disinfect the medium. Spray with dicofol at 2,000 times solution and cypermethrin at 1,500 times solution.

The above is all the content on mother plant cultivation management techniques for Phalaenopsis. Flower growers interested in Phalaenopsis cultivation can refer to and study it more.

Phalaenopsis Phalaenopsis amabilis Phalaenopsis Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Phalaenopsis / How to Propagate Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis Profile
Phalaenopsis Phalaenopsis amabilis
Phalaenopsis Cultivation Methods and Precautions Introduction to Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis was discovered in 1750. More than seventy native species have been discovered, most of which are produced in humid Asian regions. They are distributed in Taiwan, China, Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia, Indonesia and other places. Among them, Taiwan produces the most. The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous cut flower type. Phalaenopsis is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several arching flower stems. The flowers are large and named because the flower shape resembles a butterfly. Its flower posture is elegant and its colors are gorgeous. It is a treasure among tropical orchids and has the reputation of "Queen of Orchids."
Morphological Characteristics of Phalaenopsis
There are about 100 species of Phalaenopsis, native to Eurasia, North Africa, North America and Central America. Two very famous species: Platanthera chlorantha has white flowers and is relatively small; Platanthera hologlottis has large green-white flowers and a relatively large plant form. Both have 5 to 15 fragrant flowers clustered into a spike-like inflorescence!
The stem of Phalaenopsis is very short and often enclosed by leaf sheaths. The leaves are slightly fleshy, usually 3 to 4 or more, green on the front and also green on the back, elliptical, oblong or sickle-shaped oblong, 10 to 20 cm long and 3 to 6 cm wide, with an acute or obtuse apex, a cuneate or sometimes skewed base, and a short and wide sheath. The inflorescence is lateral at the base of the stem, up to 50 cm long, unbranched or sometimes branched; the peduncle is green, 4 to 5 mm thick, covered with several scale-like sheaths; the rachis is purple-green, somewhat zigzag, usually with several flowers opening one by one from the base to the apex; the floral bracts are ovate-triangular, 3 to 5 mm long; the pedicel together with the ovary is green, slender, 2.5 to 4.5 cm long; the flowers are white, beautiful, and long-lasting; the dorsal sepal is nearly elliptical, 2.5 to 3 cm long and 1.4 to 1.7 cm wide, with an obtuse apex, slightly narrowed base, and reticulate veins; the lateral sepals are skewed ovate, 2.6 to 3.5 cm long and 1.4 to 2.2 cm wide, with an obtuse apex, a narrowed base attached to the column foot, and reticulate veins; the petals are rhombic-circular, 2.7 to 3.4 cm long and 2.4 to 3.8 cm wide, with a rounded apex, a narrowed base forming a short claw, and reticulate veins; the lip is 3-lobed, with a claw about 7 to 9 mm long at the base; the lateral lobes are erect, obovate, 2 cm long, with a rounded or acute apex, a narrowed base, red spots or fine stripes, and a yellow fleshy callus at the intersection between the two lateral lobes and the base of the mid-lobe; the mid-lobe is rhombic, 1.5 to 2.8 cm long and 1.4 to 1.7 cm wide, with a gradually narrowed apex and 2 tendrils 8 to 18 mm long, and a cuneate base; the column is stout, about 1 cm long, with a wide column foot; there are 2 pollinia, nearly spherical, each splitting into 2 unequal parts. Flowering period April to June!
The scientific name of Phalaenopsis means "orchid like a butterfly" according to the original Greek meaning. It can absorb nutrients from the air to survive and is classified as an epiphytic orchid. It can be said to be a large group among tropical orchids. Its plant is very peculiar, having neither stolons nor pseudobulbs. Each plant produces only several broad leaves as thick as spoons, alternately stacked above the base. Thick white aerial roots are exposed around the leaves, and some cling to the outer wall of the flowerpot, full of natural wild charm. When the Chinese New Year arrives, a flower spike up to a full chi long emerges from the leaf axil, and then opens one after another. Each flower has 5 sepals, with a lip inserted in the middle. The flower colors are bright and dazzling, including pure white, goose yellow, crimson, as well as light purple, orange-red and azure blue. Many varieties have two or three colors. Some look as if patterned stripes are embroidered on them, and some look as if evenly sprayed with colored dots. Each spike bears seven or eight flowers, and some as many as twelve or thirteen, and can be enjoyed continuously for sixty or seventy days!
The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous cut flower type, with more than 50 species in the whole genus. It is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several arching flower stems. The flowers are large and named because the flower shape resembles a butterfly. Its flower posture is elegant and its colors are gorgeous. It is a treasure among tropical orchids and has the reputation of "Queen of Orchids"!
Phalaenopsis has a graceful flower posture, elegant and diverse flower colors, and is named for its butterfly-like flower shape. It is widely cultivated in countries around the world. Although it belongs to epiphytic orchids, it has no pseudobulbs, only a very short stem at the base. The leaves are wide and thick, long elliptical, and can reach more than 50 cm. Some varieties have beautiful light silver mottling on the leaves, with purple underneath. The flower stalk emerges from the leaf axil, slightly curved, of varying lengths, with several to hundreds of flowers, shaped like butterflies. The sepals are long elliptical, and the tip of the lip is three-lobed. There are many flower colors, and flowering can last more than one month. Abroad, it is mostly used as a cut flower and is a high-grade product among Western orchids. Most Phalaenopsis have no scent, and only a few have a scent. We call them scented Phalaenopsis. This kind of Phalaenopsis is very rare, but many people say after smelling it that it is a foul odor, and some people who work near the flowers are fumigated until they have headaches!

Ecological Habits of Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis likes environments with high air temperature, high humidity and good ventilation; it is not tolerant of waterlogging, tolerant of semi-shade environments, avoids direct sunlight, avoids water accumulation, and fears cold. The suitable growth temperature is 22 to 28 degrees C, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15 degrees C!
Cultivation Techniques and Cultivation Conditions of Phalaenopsis
(1) Temperature
Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and the cultivation temperature should be maintained between 15 and 34 degrees C. Appropriate temperatures are as follows: 26 to 27 degrees C during the growth stage and 19 to 21 degrees C during the flowering stage. To obtain more flower spikes, the temperature can be maintained at 18 to 20 degrees C for a total of 4 to 8 weeks. When light is insufficient or the daytime temperature is too high, maintain 18 degrees C to strengthen flowering forcing (induce flower bud formation). Because leaf growth must also be maintained during the flowering period, the low-temperature period should not be too long. When light is insufficient, if the temperature is above 23 degrees C for more than 24 hours, it will cause excessive vegetative growth and loss of flower buds.
(2) Light Amount
1. In the Netherlands
To obtain proper leaf and root development, sufficient light must be provided. Excessive light causes scorch marks on leaves. Too low light (below 100 W/sq m) causes stagnant plant growth, poor quality, improper flower bud development and poor root development. The appropriate light amount is 2002. In summer with strong sunlight (1400 W/sq m), use 80 to 85% shade nets.
2. In Tropical Regions
It is necessary to maintain 80 to 90% shading capacity. Usually a fixed net with 65% shading and another set of movable net with 65% shading are used. In areas with heavy rainstorms, plastic sheeting roofs should be used to reduce disease and reduce rainwater leaching of the medium. (Note: This paragraph is aimed at simple rain shelters in places such as Indonesia, and does not discuss subtropical greenhouses.)
The appropriate light amounts are as follows:
Growth stage: 5000 to 8000 lux
Flowering stage: 8000 to 15000 lux
In areas with generally abundant sunlight all year round, the light requirement can be increased by 20%. However, attention should be paid to the refraction of light so that all orchid leaves receive even light. When light is high, relatively high humidity must be maintained.
(3) Artificial Supplementary Lighting
Artificial supplementary lighting benefits leaf temperature, microclimate and orchid seedling growth, and can reduce plant losses. Its characteristics are as follows:
Plug seedling growth: promotes rapid growth and reduces orchid plant losses;
Growth stage: promotes rapid growth and better development;
Flowering stage: helps with flower spike and flower bud development, reduces flower bud loss, and increases quality.
In winter, Phalaenopsis requires at least 12-14 hours and 3500-4000 lux of light, so artificial light sources are suitable. Using excessive light on sunny days will cause the leaves to turn red, thereby causing growth to stall. In addition, the orchid plant must maintain a dark period of at least 8 hours to ensure it can absorb carbon dioxide.
(4) Carbon dioxide concentration
Phalaenopsis is a CAM plant and absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600-800 ppm.
(5) Relative humidity
Due to its physiological structure, Phalaenopsis can protect itself from the stress effects of low humidity, but in an environment that is too humid, high temperature and high humidity are often accompanied by disease. The most suitable relative humidity range is 60%-80% RH. In a high-temperature, low-humidity environment, relative humidity needs to be increased. Applicable equipment systems include high-pressure misting equipment above the greenhouse to increase fog droplets, sprinkling water below the benches, and using water walls and fans, etc. However, avoid making the crop wet. Another added benefit of humidification is lowering the temperature.
(6) Other information
When crops grow in an environment with high relative humidity, daytime temperature and sunlight can both be increased, keeping the greenhouse interior at a constant temperature, and good air circulation must be maintained. Therefore, the greenhouse height is best kept 3-4 m higher than the plants.
In order to analyze the problems faced by plant growth, measurement and recording of the microclimate are very important. For example, light levels, temperature, and relative humidity all need to be measured and recorded. Measurement operations can use microcomputers or handheld sensors, and daily maximum/minimum values all need to be measured.
Cultivation methods
Orchid cultivation media must have the following requirements:
It can enable the orchid root system to bear the orchid's own weight and maintain normal plant shape, but it must not be too heavy; lightweight is preferred.
Good drainage performance and water retention performance. Orchid roots need water, but the water must also drain away quickly, because waterlogging will cause root rot; on the other hand, moisture must be retained so it does not dry out too quickly.
Good aeration performance.
Contains a considerable amount of mineral nutrients.
Can remain non-rotting for 1-2 years.
Inexpensive, suitable, easy to obtain, and convenient to handle.
The following media are suitable for cultivating orchids:
Tree fern fiber, which is made by processing and crushing the aerial roots of tree ferns; sphagnum moss; water moss;
Osmunda root, one type being hard black wire-like roots and another being brown, softer roots; not easily rotted, containing small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and trace elements, draining and aerating while retaining water, and durable. pH value 5;
Bark, Douglas fir and white fir bark fragments, soft in texture, aerating and water-retaining, pH value 4-6;
Coconut coir and coconut husk fiber;
Others: palm fiber, dried leaves, trunks, and branches, dried cow dung, pumice, clay pellets, crushed brick, tiles, vermiculite, plastic balls, etc. can all be used to grow orchids. The medium generally used for Phalaenopsis potted flowers sold on the market is water moss. [7]
Management before and after flowering
After the flower buds of Phalaenopsis have formed, more phosphorus should be applied until flowering. When the flower stem extends upward and tends to lean to one side, a support stake should be set up and tied so the flower stalk does not break. After that, as the flower stalk grows longer and taller, tying should also proceed gradually, and the support stake should be slightly arc-shaped to enhance the aesthetic appeal. Stop fertilizing during the flowering period and before new leaves grow out. After the flowers fade, for robust orchid plants with more than 5 leaves, the lower 3-4 nodes of the stem can be left and the rest cut back, and it may be expected to bloom again on the remaining flower stem later; watering should not be too frequent, and water only after the medium has dried thoroughly.
Key care points
Cultivation medium: The common cultivation media for Phalaenopsis are mainly water moss and moss.
1. Temperature: When growing Phalaenopsis at home, temperature must first be ensured. Phalaenopsis likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment. During the growth period, the minimum temperature should be kept above 15°C, and the suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16-30°C. Attention should be paid to increasing temperature in autumn and winter and at the turn of winter and spring as well as when winter temperatures are low. Generally, in rooms with heating equipment in winter, this temperature is not difficult to achieve, but note that the flowers should not be placed directly on the radiator or too close to it. When summer temperatures are on the high side, cooling is needed, and attention should be paid to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32°C, Phalaenopsis usually enters a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperature should be avoided. The peak flowering period is around the Spring Festival. Proper cooling can prolong the viewing time. During flowering, the nighttime temperature is best controlled between 13-16°C, but must not be lower than 13°C. [8]
2. Watering: Phalaenopsis originates from primitive forests, where there is more mist and higher temperatures. Phalaenopsis has no thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients. If the air humidity is insufficient, the leaf surface will wrinkle and become weak and limp. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and cared for in a ventilated, high-humidity environment. The suitable air humidity for Phalaenopsis growth is 60%-80%. During the vigorous new root elongation period of Phalaenopsis, water more; during the dormant period after flowering, water less. In spring and autumn, water once every day around 5 p.m. In summer, when the plant grows vigorously, water once each at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. In winter, when light is weak and temperatures are low, watering once every other week is enough, and it is best done before 10 a.m. If a cold wave arrives, do not water; keep it dry, and resume watering after the cold wave passes. The principle of watering is to water when dry and let it dry between waterings. When the surface of the cultivation medium becomes dry, water thoroughly once, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, a sprayer can be used to spray directly onto the leaf surface; it is enough to see the leaf surface become moist, but note that during the flowering period, do not spray water mist onto the flowers. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before use for watering.
3. Light: Although Phalaenopsis prefers shade, the orchid plant still needs to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Appropriate light can promote Phalaenopsis flowering and make the flowers more colorful and long-lasting. Generally, it should be placed in a spot with scattered light indoors, and direct sunlight should not be allowed.
4. Ventilation: The normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air, so home-grown Phalaenopsis must have good ventilation, especially during the high-humidity period in summer. Good ventilation must be used to prevent heat stress, and it can also avoid infection by pests and diseases.
5. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized throughout the year, and fertilization should not be stopped unless low temperatures persist for a very long time. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilization can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growth period, and a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7-10 days. Organic fertilizer is preferable, and special Phalaenopsis nutrient solution can also be applied, but do not apply it when there are flower buds, otherwise the buds may easily drop early. In summer, when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing. In autumn and winter, during the flower stem growth period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it should be dilute, applied about once every 2-3 weeks. Fertilization time is after watering in the afternoon. After fertilizing several times, rinse the orchid pot and orchid plant with a large amount of water to avoid residual inorganic salts harming the roots.
6. Post-flowering management: The flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last as long as 2-3 months. When the flowers wither, the faded flowers must be cut off as early as possible, which can reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stem is cut at 4-5 nodes from the base, it can bloom again after 2-3 months. However, this consumes too many nutrients from the plant and is not conducive to growth the following year. If you want it to produce good flowers again the following year, it is best to cut the flower stem from the base. When the medium ages, it should be replaced in a timely manner, otherwise air permeability will worsen, causing root rot and weakening plant growth or even death. Generally, repotting in May, when new leaves grow out, is appropriate.
Key points to note
1. Watering too frequently: Friends who grow Phalaenopsis always worry that it lacks water and water it every day regardless of whether the cultivation medium is dry, causing severe root rot.
2. Temperature too low: Usually, flowering Phalaenopsis plants are mostly marketed in early spring, and after being bought home they are generally placed in places such as the living room for appreciation. Although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the nighttime temperature is somewhat on the low side. On the other hand, professionally cultivated orchids are mostly in well-equipped greenhouses. By comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are somewhat insufficient, causing the plant's vigor to weaken day by day. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well it is cared for, the orchid still may not bloom.
3. Excessive fertilization: Applying fertilizer whenever there is fertilizer, and not paying attention to concentration, thinking that applying fertilizer will make it grow faster. It should be known that Phalaenopsis should be given dilute fertilizer, and it should be applied in small amounts many times. Remember that "supplementing" must not be excessive, otherwise the result will be the opposite.
4. Planting a small plant in a large pot: Thinking that using a large pot can give Phalaenopsis a more spacious environment and sufficient materials. In fact, after using a large pot, the water moss does not dry easily. It should be known that Phalaenopsis likes aeration, and when air circulates it thrives.
5. Dry flower buds: Most Phalaenopsis are forced into flowering. After leaving the production base, problems with dry buds easily occur after the environment changes. At this time, do not assume it is dryness, do not water more, but instead increase indoor humidity and control indoor temperature; the temperature must not be too high. When buying flowers, try to choose ones with thick petals.
Cultivation management
It likes high temperature, high humidity, and a ventilated, semi-shaded environment, and dislikes waterlogging and stuffy air. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. Because Phalaenopsis originates from tropical rainforest areas, it is naturally fond of warmth and afraid of cold. The suitable growth temperature is 18-30°C. In winter, below 15°C it will stop growing, and below 10°C it is likely to die. For mass production in various places in Lingnan, cold protection facilities must be available, and protected cultivation must be implemented. If planting a small amount at home, move it indoors immediately when cold weather occurs to maintain temperature, and it can overwinter safely.
For its propagation, cell tissue culture is mostly used. After test-tube seedlings are grown and transplanted, they can bloom after about two years. For some mother plants, after the flowering period ends, the axillary buds on the flower stalk sometimes also grow and develop into plantlets. When they grow roots, they can be cut from the flower stalk for division propagation.
Medium
Because of its epiphytic nature, the planting medium for pot cultivation should not be soil. Instead, water moss, pumice, tree fern fiber, charcoal fragments, etc. should be used, or the seedlings can be fixed directly onto a tree fern board (also called snake wood) and allowed to attach and grow on their own. This cultivation method imitates its original ecological environment. When it blooms, hanging the whole board on the wall for appreciation indeed has a special charm. Phalaenopsis has quite a few aerial roots. The root tips are emerald green and quite sensitive, and must be carefully protected. The root tips must never be touched or damaged, otherwise that root will stop growing.
Temperature
Phalaenopsis belongs to the tropical high-temperature orchids, and the suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. Below 15°C it enters dormancy, and below 10°C it is likely to die. However, temperatures above 35°C affect growth and make it prone to disease. Flowering requires experiencing one month of low temperature at 15-18°C to promote flower bud differentiation. After that, if low temperature continues, flower stalk sprouting will be delayed.
Air
Phalaenopsis likes an environment with high air humidity and ventilation. The air is required to maintain humidity at 60%-80%, and air circulation should be maintained, preferably with a gentle breeze. There must not be too much standing water in the pot. If roots are surrounded by liquid water for 6-8 hours, they are highly prone to rot. Therefore, aeration is the key to growing Phalaenopsis well. The medium needs to be loose and breathable so the roots grow strong. Avoid dry, hot wind. When growing it in northern winters, it must not be placed on a radiator or directly facing air-conditioning airflow.
Sunlight
Under natural conditions, Phalaenopsis mostly grows epiphytically on the branches and trunks of tall trees in tropical rainforests, sheltered by shade. Avoid [10] direct scorching sunlight, otherwise it will cause large-area leaf scorch, but it also cannot tolerate indoor conditions that are too shady, which will lead to slow growth and be unfavorable for nutrient storage and flowering. It is best to place it on a balcony or windowsill facing north or east so it receives scattered light; then it will grow strongly and have fewer diseases.
Moisture
Because it has no stolons and no pseudobulbs, Phalaenopsis is not drought-tolerant, and because of its epiphytic nature, Phalaenopsis also fears waterlogging and wetness. During high-temperature periods in summer, it is enough to keep the material moist. Spraying water can be used to lower temperature and increase humidity (but do not let water remain in the leaf center, as it easily causes crown rot). A moist towel can also be placed beside the flower pot to increase humidity, but be sure to note: the roots must not be excessively damp and dark for a long time, especially being surrounded by liquid water for a long time, which makes them highly prone to rot. For example, in summer the daily watering amount should be such that it can air-dry naturally that day, alternating dry and wet, which will greatly reduce the occurrence of root rot and diseases. In winter, water less and only keep the material slightly moist.
Fertilization
The fertilization principle for Phalaenopsis is dilute fertilizer applied frequently, and never use overly concentrated chemical fertilizer. The appropriate concentration is about 1 time more diluted than the concentration stated on the chemical fertilizer packaging, that is, about 1500-2000 times. Special Phalaenopsis fertilizer can also be used. Apply nitrogen and potassium fertilizer during the growth period, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer during the flowering induction period. Applying once a week or once every half month is sufficient. Do not fertilize during the flowering period or dormant period, but attention should be paid to appropriately supplement fertilizer before and after flowering.
Cultivation techniques
Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid. During cultivation, the root system must have good aeration. The potting medium must be loose, drain well, and be breathable. Moss, fern roots, bark chunks, coconut shell, or vermiculite are commonly used. About 30-40 days after new plants are planted, new roots grow out.
During the growth period, fertilize once every ten days. From flower bud formation to the flowering period, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Also frequently spray water on the ground and leaf surfaces to increase air humidity, which is very beneficial to stem and leaf growth. Repot each year in May-June, when new roots begin to grow after flowering. The temperature should be 20-25°C. If the temperature is too low, new plants recover slowly and are also prone to rot. High temperatures above 32°C are unfavorable to Phalaenopsis growth, will promote it to enter a semi-dormant state, affect flower bud differentiation, and result in no flowering. Phalaenopsis has long inflorescences and large flowers. When potted, supports need to be set up to prevent toppling and affecting the floral appearance.
The flower pot should be somewhat large. Pot size is also very important. If the roots of the plant are very large, the pot should also be appropriately enlarged. If the root system is small, do not use too large a pot either. If the pot is relatively large and contains more soil, it is easy for the soil to have poor permeability. When planting, orchids, camellias, rhododendrons, Michelia alba, and gardenias need acidic soil (mountain soil); Phalaenopsis and clivia use leaf mold; osmanthus, sago palm, and palm bamboo use 2/3 garden soil plus 1/3 coal cinder ash, with the purpose of increasing soil permeability.

Phalaenopsis cultivation methods and cultivation plan
The cultivation of cut-flower Phalaenopsis is divided into two stages:
Growth stage: from seedling to mature plant.
Flowering stage: flower induction and cut flower sales.
(1) Growth stage
At the beginning of cultivation, smaller varieties or smaller graded seedlings should be cultivated on another bench. Large varieties and larger grades can be placed in square arrangements, but before the leaf spread begins to touch, the pots must be spaced out to avoid growing thin, long leaves. In Europe, the bench area required for the growth stage is about 10% of the total cultivation area.
(2) Flowering stage
Economic cost calculation, with a 5-year flowering period
After the plant has developed 4-5 leaves, it is replanted into 15-17 cm pots, and the spacing between pots can then be fixed. Varieties with a larger leaf spread need increased spacing. When the orchid plant has grown to sufficient size and the root system is well developed, this orchid plant can serve as a flowering plant.
On average there are about 20 plants per square meter. From flowering planting to commercial production is a total of 5 years. If the seedlings are too small or the root system is poorly developed, the flower stalk will be smaller and the flowers smaller, the pot-insertion time will not be long, and the time until the next stalk emergence will be longer.
Phalaenopsis should be cultivated in transparent pots. Transparent pots can ensure more vigorous growth and better root quality. The pots are placed on benches, and ventilation should be good. The width of rolling benches should be less than 1.6 m, and the height should be appropriate, so cut-flower work is easy to carry out.
Medium
The criteria for selecting the medium are as follows: large particles are used for drainage, and fine particles (not dust particles) are used to retain and distribute water and nutrients. If the medium contains too much fine dust, it easily forms a hard layered structure at the bottom of the pot. The medium used in the Netherlands is bark 12-16 mm in length and water moss at 2-3 kg/. For large containers such as 14-24 cm pots, coarser bark (14-24 mm) is suitable, but it must be mixed with sticky particles or lava medium. In 17 cm pots, adding appropriate water moss (2-3 kg/m) can make moisture distribution uniform within the medium. This is especially important in the first year of cultivation. Within one year the water moss will rot and deteriorate, but the root system can already distribute effectively within the pot.
In addition to the medium, the drainage performance of the pot is equally important. After irrigation, water accumulated at the bottom of the pot must not remain too long. Transparent pots can keep the roots inside the pot, and the root system will turn green. If the root system only grows downward without circling, the root anchoring is incorrect. After irrigation, the absorption of water and nutrients then requires a longer time, and the quality of future flower stalks becomes worse. Using transparent pots allows checking whether the root system remains vigorous and evenly distributed.
During the first month after transplanting, the medium must be kept moist. The top must not be too dry. If the moisture change in the medium during the first week is too drastic, it will be difficult to remedy later in the cultivation period. However, a medium that is too wet can also cause problems.
Irrigation system
Available irrigation methods include: using drip irrigation lines, using fixed nozzles, irrigating from top to bottom, manual irrigation, and combinations of the above methods.
Phalaenopsis leaves easily absorb nutrients such as urea from the leaf surface during foliar fertilization. A porous medium is very important for the roots; despite the negative capillary effect, its advantages are greater. In the early growth stage, using sprinkler irrigation or irrigation booms for irrigation is very useful for the crop. In the flowering stage, to avoid gray mold on the petals caused by watering, drip irrigation lines are better. When the flower stalk already has many flowers, watering from above easily causes the flower stalk to break.
Irrigation water must not contain chemical components or visible microorganisms. The sodium and chloride ions contained in the water must not exceed 100 mg/l, and bicarbonate must not be excessive. If there is no good water source, reverse osmosis treated water must be used. The amount of watering is related to climate, medium, and plant age. In the environment of Western Europe, the irrigation amount is roughly as follows: once every 7-10 days in winter, once every 5-7 days in summer. During the growth period, the water temperature needs to be 18-20°C to avoid root damage.
During the growth period and the first month after moving to large pots, water must be applied from above. Besides reliably keeping the medium sufficiently moist, this can also avoid salinization at the top layer of the medium. After the root system is well developed, a drip irrigation system can be used instead. At least once a year, water must be supplied from above to leach the medium.
Fertilizer
For fertilizing Phalaenopsis, compound fertilizer can be used or nitrogen fertilizer can be applied directly. Fertilizer application varies by variety. If a base fertilizer is used, the base fertilizer must contain Dolokal (L3-4 kg/l) mixed with PG, with a pH range of 5.2-6.2 and an EC range of 0.8-1.2 mS/cm. If nitrogen fertilizer is too high, it will cause excessive leaf growth. If the EC value is too high, the roots will die. If it is too low, the plant lacks trace elements. The best way to measure EC is to collect the water discharged from the bottom after irrigation. More than 1.5 mS/cm indicates that the medium in the pot has become salinized. Usually the roots will form brick-red spots, and at this time they need to be leached with clean water or water of low EC.
Flowering stage
When the plant has 5 mature leaves, flower induction can be carried out. When the plant is sufficiently mature and has gone through a transition period, it will naturally send out a flower stalk. Natural flower induction in autumn allows sale in February-March of the following year. Flowering time can be controlled by regulating temperature and light. When all flower buds on the flower stalk except the last one have opened, it can be cut for sale. When the flower stalk is cut, it usually already has three flower buds. The second flower stalk emerges from the remaining flower buds, and starts from the top bud. However, inducing this new flower stalk requires a longer time, so whether to adopt this method of first natural flowering and then emerging a second flower stalk is decided by the required flower stalk quality and sales plan. In addition to the first flower stalk, as long as the plant is healthy, a second time can produce double flower stalks, which can be sold as cut flowers. Therefore, on average 2.5 flower stalks can be sold each year. After the flower stalk emerges, use hanging strings to keep it straight and avoid bending.
Immature flowering plants
During the growth period, flower stalks that emerge before maturity need to be removed promptly. Before the flower stalk hardens, it can be removed manually. If the flower stalk has already hardened, it must be cut off with a tool. Before removal or cutting, both hands and tools must be sterilized to avoid transmitting disease. Maintaining a temperature of 27°C during the growth period can avoid this premature flowering phenomenon.
Stage-by-stage care
From flask seedlings to flowering and sale, Phalaenopsis goes through 5 growth stages: flask seedlings, small seedlings, medium seedlings, large seedlings, and the flowering stage. The key points of cultivation management are as follows.
1. Early-stage management. In the flask seedling growth stage, the optimal growth temperature is 25-28°C during the day and 18-20°C at night. The suitable growth temperature for the small seedling stage is 23°C. Above 35°C or below 10°C, growth stops. Newly deflasked small seedlings should be kept below 20°C, with air relative humidity maintained at 70%-80%, and light controlled below 1000 lux. After a transition period, light is gradually increased to 10,000 lux, and finally can reach 15,000 lux.
The fertilizer and water management during the small seedling growth stage plays a decisive role. Within 3-5 days after the tissue-cultured seedlings are deflasked, it is not suitable to apply fertilizer or water, but sterilization treatment must be carried out immediately. Carbendazim 1000-times solution can be used for leaf surface sterilization, and rooting powder can be sprayed the next day, 3 times. After a 3-5 day transition period, apply fertilizer for the first time, spraying with Peters Professional No. 10 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 30:10:10) 1800-times solution, with the standard being that the water moss is completely wet. One day later, use Peters Professional No. 10 (30:10:10) 2500-times solution as foliar fertilizer. After 1 week, according to the dry-wet condition of the small seedlings, apply fertilizer for the second time. At this time, the fertilization principle is high nitrogen, low phosphorus, and low potassium.
After 4 months of cultivation, the small seedlings grow into medium seedlings, and at this time they should be repotted. The tightness of the water moss is based on the tightness of the muscle below the palm center when the hand naturally forms a fist. The tightness can be greater or smaller, but the standard must be unified. Management during the medium seedling period is basically similar to the small seedling stage, but light can be increased to 20,000 lux. For fertilization, Peters Professional No. 8 and No. 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratios respectively 20:10:20 and 20:20:20) are used alternately. During the medium seedling period, attention should be paid to the direction and growth vigor of new leaves. Generally, they are placed in an east-west orientation, and the leaves should be regularly turned. At this time the fertilization principle is low nitrogen, high phosphorus, and high potassium.
After 4-6 months of cultivation, the medium seedlings enter the large seedling stage. The management method is the same as for medium seedlings, but fertilization uses Peters Professional No. 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 20:20:20).
2. Later-stage management. The flowering period is the management of the late growth stage. Phalaenopsis flowering is induced by low temperature, so in addition to fine management, temperature should also be well controlled. First keep the temperature above 20°C for 2 months, then lower the nighttime temperature to below 18°C, and after 45 days flower buds form. After flower bud formation, keep the nighttime temperature at 18-20°C and the daytime temperature at 25-28°C. After 3-4 months it can bloom. During the flowering period, the temperature is slightly lowered, but not below 15°C. After the flower bud emerges, a support stake must be set up, that is, set up the support stake before the flower stem extends and lodges, and tie the flower stem to the support stake, leaving room for the flower stem to elongate and thicken.
Water and fertilizer management during the flowering period is especially important. Watering should be carried out at 10 a.m., avoiding directly splashing water onto the flowers. After watering, use an exhaust fan for ventilation to keep the air in the shed fresh and allow residual moisture to dissipate as quickly as possible. At this time, fertilization with Peters Professional No. 2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 10:30:20) 1000-times solution is preferable, depending on the condition of the Phalaenopsis itself.
Phalaenopsis is susceptible to soft rot and gray leaf spot. Soft rot is extremely contagious; once discovered, immediately isolate the diseased plant. Diseased plants can be controlled with mancozeb or Topsin. Usually sterilize once every 15 days.
Repotting
When Phalaenopsis has many roots growing outside the pot, or when the medium inside the pot turns black and rots, it is time to consider repotting. The repotting steps are as follows:
Carefully remove the Phalaenopsis from the pot and remove all old medium;
Trim the root system, cutting off dead roots, rotten roots, broken roots, and shriveled roots. If the base of the orchid plant is too high, that is, the root stock is too long, part of it can be cut off;
Then place water moss under the roots, and wrap the root system tightly all around with wet moss;
Use larger foam plastic at the bottom of the pot as a base, put the orchid plant wrapped with moss into the pot, and pack the moss tightly around the pot so the orchid plant does not wobble. Place it in a shady place and do not water until the moss is completely dry. At ordinary times, spraying is enough (wet moss means soaking dry moss in water until thoroughly wet, taking it out and squeezing out the water).
Summering techniques
1. Measures: The main issue in summering Phalaenopsis is cooling, and the following measures should be taken:
Add double-layer shade netting to reduce light, which can achieve a good cooling effect (lowering by 2-4°C).
Sprinkle or flood the ground. Summer temperatures are very high, but the water just drawn from a well is actually very low, around 16°C. Therefore, sprinkling or flooding can produce an obvious cooling effect.
Spraying water on leaf surfaces cools fastest, but lasts the shortest time.
Ventilation. Make a 40 cm x 40 cm square hole in the wall every 5 m at a height of 70 cm from the ground to increase ventilation and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases; turn on fans when above 25°C to strengthen air circulation and benefit plant growth.
2. Undesirable phenomena that easily occur during summering
Leaf aging and shedding. During the summering process, some lower leaves of the plants decline, and from late summer to autumn they gradually yellow and shed.
Severe pests and diseases. Especially when the weather is hot, the air relative humidity is too high, and there is no wind and high temperature, it is easy to cause diseases such as soft rot, brown spot, and viruses.
Cut flower techniques
The native habitat of Phalaenopsis is all tropical regions of Asia. In the wild, its daytime growth temperature is 28-35°C and nighttime temperature is 20-24°C, and it prefers high relative humidity and shaded conditions. This crop absorbs nutrients through roots and leaves. The root system is also used to fix the plant.
Breeding program
At Anthura there is a professional breeding team, and the breeding objectives are divided into pot flowers and cut flowers. This company is also the only company that lists cut flowers in its breeding program. The genetic characteristics of the male and female parents are required to have dominant differences to ensure that their offspring have stable heredity, so that they can become a new variety. Its germplasm sources include varieties preserved since 40 years ago, as well as new lines purchased from Asia. The development of a new variety includes hybrid development, selection, and mass propagation. Developing a new variety takes 7-9 years. From crossing to forming a seed pod takes 6 months, and from sowing seeds to becoming seedlings takes 1 year. From seedling to flowering takes 1.5 years. Using 1 flower stalk to make tissue-cultured plantlets takes 2 years, and from meristem plantlets to flowering takes 1.5 years, so 6.5 years have already passed. Only at this stage does mass propagation of meristem plantlets begin.
The Anthura Phalaenopsis breeding program has two main directions: cut flowers and pot flowers. The selection program includes flower type and flower color. For cut flowers, the most important selection criteria include the number of flower stalks produced, color, the proportion of optimal quality, the fewer branches the better, the thickness and strength of the flower stalk, flower stalk and flower development, flower type, phyllotaxis, plant developmental traits, post-harvest storage and transport characteristics, and vase life, etc. Post-harvest characteristics are most related to heredity. The viewing period can vary from 5 days to 6 weeks. In addition to the above main selection criteria, other secondary selection criteria are also used to evaluate varieties, such as the loss rate during orchid production and disease resistance.
Seedling characteristics
Anthura provides tissue-cultured plantlets and plug seedlings. Tissue-cultured plantlets must be specially ordered. Customers gain two benefits from using plug seedlings: reducing losses during the seedling acclimation period, and reducing the cultivation period by 5-7 months. Each plug tray contains 40 seedlings, and when delivered to the customer's greenhouse, transplanting work can be carried out immediately.
Seedlings in rectangular trays have a leaf spread of 10-14 cm and usually have 2-3 well-grown leaves. Before transplanting the seedlings into 12 cm soft pots, they must be graded. Anthura does not carry out this grading work for customers. Usually the grower divides the seedlings in the rectangular trays into two grades, large and small, and after transplanting they are cultivated on different benches. The cultivation period for small seedlings is 3-4 months longer than for large seedlings.
Transplanting seedlings into 12 cm soft pots is still mainly done manually. The seedlings must be kept vertical, placed in the lower center of the soft pot, and planted at the correct height. If the plant growth point is too deep, it is prone to disease infection; if the transplanting depth is too shallow, support is poor. After transplanting, the arrangement of the soft pots is very important. After the orchid seedlings grow and the leaves begin to shade each other from sunlight, the pots must be spaced out, increasing the spacing between soft pots.

Propagation methods of Phalaenopsis
The main propagation methods for Phalaenopsis are five: seed propagation, flower stalk bud induction propagation, crown-cutting bud induction propagation, stem-cutting propagation and tissue culture.
I.Seed propagation method
This method can breed a large number of superior seedlings, and is not easily affected by viruses and other diseases; it can also use hybridisation to breed new varieties that are superior, more novel, and richer in flower colour and form.
1. Natural sowing method
The seeds released from the already split seed pods are sown into the pot of the parent plant, because the growing medium of the parent plant may contain the symbiotic bacteria necessary for Phalaenopsis seeds to germinate. The natural sowing method is simple and easy, requiring no complicated sterile procedures or operating tools, and is suitable for ordinary home Phalaenopsis growers, but the chance of success with this method is very slim, so it is rarely used.
2. Sterile sowing method
The method is to first wash the unopened mature seed pods, then soak them in 75%-90% ethanol or chloroform for 2-3 seconds, then soak them in 5%-10% bleaching powder solution or 3% hydrogen peroxide for 5-20 minutes. Take out the seeds and soak them in the same disinfectant solution for 5-20 minutes, then remove the solution by filtering, take out the seeds, and use a fine needle to evenly spread the seeds flat on the surface of the prepared culture medium in a bottle. The culture conditions are a light intensity of 2000-3000 lux, 10-18 hours per day, and a temperature maintained at 20-26°C. After 9-10 months, when the young seedlings have grown 2-3 leaves they can be taken out of the bottle and planted in pots. This method is fairly scientific work, generally carried out in a tissue culture laboratory, or in a large-scale, strictly managed tissue culture factory.
II.Flower stalk bud induction propagation method
After the flowers of many Phalaenopsis varieties fade, small seedlings with roots can often grow from the internodes of the flower stalk; cut them off and plant them separately and they will grow into a new Phalaenopsis plant. Artificial bud induction can be used to ensure that the flower stalk of the Phalaenopsis grows stalk plantlets for propagation. The method is to first cut off the part of the flower stalk that has already finished flowering, then use a blade or sharp knife to carefully remove the bracts at the internodes from the first to the third node on the upper part of the flower stalk, exposing the buds in the internodes; use a cotton swab to evenly apply bud-inducing agent or hormones such as indolebutyric acid to the exposed internode nodes; after treatment, place the orchid plant in a semi-shaded place with the temperature maintained at 25-28°C; after 2-3 weeks the buds can be seen growing leaves, and after 3 months they grow into Phalaenopsis seedlings with 3-4 leaves and aerial roots; cut off the seedlings and pot them up, and they become a new orchid plant.
III.Crown-cutting bud induction propagation method
After the growing point of an orchid plant is damaged by freezing injury, insect pests, disease or human factors, after a period of time 1-2 new buds will grow from the stem nodes near the base of the plant. This characteristic can be used to propagate Phalaenopsis. The specific procedure is: pull out the highest central leaf at the top of the stem, taking care to damage the stem tip growing point so that it cannot grow upward; let the wound dry or apply a fungicide to disinfect and sterilise it, and after a period of time 2-3 new buds can grow from the stem nodes near the base; when the new buds have grown and roots emerge from the base, they can be cut off and planted separately to become a new plant.
IV.Stem-cutting propagation method
The principle of stem-cutting propagation is to destroy the stem tip growing point so as to induce dormant buds to grow. Although there are 1-3 dormant buds in the leaf axils of a Phalaenopsis plant, most of them cannot sprout into a plant. After the plant has grown continuously upward and the stem nodes have become longer, cut off the upper part of the plant with roots using a sterilised sharp knife or scissors, plant it in a new pot to let it continue growing, and give the lower part with the rhizome proper water management; before long 1-3 new buds will sprout (depending on the characteristics of the plant itself and the management method). If the stem of the plant is relatively long, you may also consider cutting it into several sections; as long as each section has 2-3 internodes or is 2-3 cm or more long and has one or more roots, it may grow into a new plant, but if the rhizome of the plant has completely dried up and died, this method is ineffective.
V.Tissue culture method
Using the tissue culture method to propagate Phalaenopsis can obtain excellent genetic characteristics completely identical to the mother plant. The Phalaenopsis seedlings produced by this method are called mericlones or tissue-cultured seedlings. The plant tissue (explant) used for mericlone culture can be the terminal bud (stem tip), stem segments (dormant buds), or young leaves or root tips, but the most common is to use the flower stalk of the Phalaenopsis. This is because using the flower stalk as the explant not only does not damage the plant, but is also easy to induce. For older flower stalks or flower stalks that have already bloomed, mainly the stalk node buds are taken, while for young flower stalks, in addition to the stalk node buds, the stalk internodes can also be used as culture material.
VI. Home propagation method
Cut off the faded flowers together with the flower stalk after flowering, taking care to keep the unopened bud nodes (about three or four nodes).
Carefully remove the bracts on the top one or two bud nodes to expose the node buds, taking care not to injure the buds.
Take a small amount of bud-inducing agent and apply it evenly to the node buds; if you can also apply it over the wounds left after removing the bracts, the effect is even better.
Place the treated orchid in a suitable place (able to receive light but not direct sun). The temperature must be maintained at 25-30°C and the humidity above 75%, and in 2-3 months new flower seedlings will grow.
When the new seedling has grown to a certain size, wrap a small amount of sphagnum moss around its base with plastic film; when the seedling has grown two or three thick roots, it can be cut off and planted separately.

Pest and disease control of Phalaenopsis
The flowering of Phalaenopsis is mainly affected by temperature. Flower bud differentiation requires low-temperature stimulation. After stimulation for one month at 20-23°C during the day and below 18°C at night (but not below 15°C for a long time), the dormant buds in the stem can be transformed into flower buds. After that, when the flower bud breaks through the epidermis and grows into a flower stalk, a higher temperature is needed, and the normal growing temperature is suitable; sustained low temperature will cause the flower stalk to emerge slowly, the flowers to be rather small or even to wither midway. Appropriately increasing sunlight during the flowering period helps the flowers to be large and brightly coloured and to bloom earlier. Phalaenopsis pest and disease control: the occurrence of Phalaenopsis diseases is mostly caused by poor environment and hygiene, and diseases are especially likely to occur at low temperatures or when sunlight is insufficient; regular environmental cleaning and temperature and humidity control, and rapid removal of diseased plants, can prevent the occurrence and spread of most diseases. Phalaenopsis diseases can generally be divided into those caused by bacteria, moulds, insects and the environment; the symptoms and control methods are as follows:
Bacterial diseases: This type of disease first multiplies in the internal tissues, and then spreads over the leaf surface and the surface of the plant body; common symptoms are exuding sap and rotting, mostly due to excessive watering or transmission through insects or contact between plants. Black rot symptoms: a common disease of orchid plants; when a Phalaenopsis is affected it usually rots and dies as a whole plant, and it is a fairly serious disease. Control method: special attention must be paid to greenhouse ventilation, and the temperature also needs to be appropriately lowered. If a plant is affected, avoid spraying water to prevent the disease from spreading. A fungicidal powder should be sprayed to protect unaffected plants, and the diseased plants should be removed as quickly as possible.
Brown rot symptoms: This can be said to be one of the more difficult orchid diseases to deal with. At first, pale spots appear on the plant body or leaf surface, then they gradually darken and turn dark brown, and cause the plant body to wrinkle. Brown rot spreads fairly quickly; from the initial onset to the appearance of wrinkling and rotting takes only one day; usually infection occurs in the morning and rotting begins in the evening, making it a rather troublesome Phalaenopsis disease. Brown rot mostly occurs in environments with high air humidity, and is most likely to occur in spring and summer, when air humidity is relatively high and orchid plants grow relatively fast; once a plant is diseased it easily causes the surrounding orchids to become diseased as well. Control method: brown rot easily occurs in environments with high air humidity; if a plant is found to have symptoms, stop watering, cut off the affected parts, and apply a fungicide; if the condition is serious or there is concern that the condition will expand, the diseased plant can be removed or isolated. If other plants are at risk of infection, a fungicidal powder can be sprayed for protection; in spring and summer humidity must also be strictly controlled, and the orchid garden must be kept ventilated and clean.
Moulds: Too great a change in environmental humidity, or damage to the plant caused by soil and nutrient solution fertility factors, leads to moulds attacking the orchid tissue. Lowering the EC value of the irrigation water and reducing the moisture in the medium are common treatment methods. In addition, grey mould on orchid petals is also a mould disease, forming small spots on orchid flowers; the cause of this disease is excessive dampness or too high relative humidity, and temperature and humidity control is required.
Spot disease symptoms: It mostly occurs on the leaves. At first, round dark brown spots appear on the leaf surface; the spots gradually spread and finally cause the orchid plant to rot. It is a kind of fungal disease, mostly occurring in low-temperature, damp and poorly ventilated environments in autumn and winter. Control method: this disease mostly occurs in low-temperature, damp and poorly ventilated environments; control first emphasises improving dampness and keeping the leaf surface dry, watering as little as possible in cold weather, and raising the environmental temperature and maintaining ventilation so as to prevent damp moisture from stagnating on the plant body. Leaf blight symptoms: leaf blight at first begins to discolour at the leaf tip, then gradually spreads to the whole leaf and the whole plant, and finally the entire orchid turns dark brown, and the affected plant body becomes hard and dies. This disease is also caused by an excessively damp environment, and humidity control must be noted.
Control method: pay attention to humidity control in the orchid garden; improving ventilation is also something requiring special attention. If there is concern of disease, a fungicidal powder can be sprayed for protection; diseased orchids need to be cut off and isolated as soon as possible to avoid the spread of the damage.
Insects, slugs and snails: slugs and snails are common Phalaenopsis pests; the commonly occurring damage is that young plant bodies are gnawed, producing small holes, affecting the orchid's appearance and growth. Damage by snails and slugs is fairly rapid, and many orchid plants can be harmed in a short period; once discovered, insecticides must be used as soon as possible to drive them away. Mites, red spider mites: mites bite the leaves, causing deformation and discolouration, creating unfavourable factors for the orchid's appearance and growth. Insecticides can be used to control this type of pest.
Physiological abnormalities caused by the environment. Flower bud drop: after the orchid has finished flowering, if the light is too strong or the room temperature is too high, the phenomenon of the buds dropping before the flowering period ends easily occurs. Poor root development of the orchid may also cause it. Phalaenopsis flower bud drop must be dealt with by addressing the above two points. Spots: spots appearing on an orchid are not necessarily a disease problem; sometimes too strong light or poor environmental adaptation also produces the same symptoms, so changes in the environment must be noted, especially when plant bodies are moved.
Pest and disease management
Proper sanitary handling and weekly removal of diseased plants can prevent the spread of most diseases. Bacterial infection is mainly caused by water droplets splashing onto the plant body, or by being affected during transport. This kind of disease cannot be controlled with chemical agents. The various diseases and their modes of transmission are as follows:
1. Bacterial diseases
Bacterial brown spot is the most serious disease of Phalaenopsis. The symptom is brown spots appearing on the leaves. They are oily or heart-shaped, surrounded by a yellow shape. Treatment includes adjusting the nitrogen amount in the fertiliser solution, removing diseased plants and maintaining a stable relative humidity. Chemical agents have no effect on this disease. Only by using plants in good growing condition and healthy plants can this kind of bacterial problem be avoided.
2. Moulds
Too great a change in the moisture in the medium or an unsuitable EC value causes root damage, thereby prompting moulds to attack the tissue. The way to deal with it is to lower the EC value of the irrigation water and temporarily reduce the moisture content of the medium.
3. Botrytis
Another disease caused by moulds is grey mould on the petals, which forms many small spots on the flowers. The cause is that the plant remains in a damp state for too long or the relative humidity is too high.
4. Fusarium
Fusarium causes black triangular spots, and yellow and dark red colouring on the basal leaves. The leaves will quickly drop. This disease easily occurs when the roots are in standing water.
Common cases
1. Leaf spot: it mainly occurs on the leaves. At the onset, small spots appear on the leaves, later developing into nearly round lesions; the edge of the lesion has a water-soaked yellow ring with a clear boundary. Control method: strengthen ventilation, lower air humidity, and cut off diseased leaves. During the disease period, spray with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution, spraying once every 10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
2. Grey mould: it occurs in spring at low temperature and high humidity, generally showing brown small spots on the petals of white flowers, and in serious cases a soft rot phenomenon. Control method: strengthen ventilation, lower humidity, and immediately cut off the affected flowers. At the onset of the disease, spray with 75% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution, spraying once every 10 days, for 2 consecutive sprays.
3．Brown spot: it occurs in summer and autumn in hot and humid weather, mainly on the leaves. At the onset, round small spots appear on the leaves, later gradually enlarging into large spots; the lesions are dark brown, and in serious cases the leaves turn black and wither. Control method: pay attention to ventilation and light transmission. At the onset of the disease, spray with 10% polyoxin (polyoxin) at 80 times dilution once every half month.
4．Scale insects: the most common pest of Phalaenopsis; it mostly occurs in autumn and winter, when indoor ventilation is poor and dryness leads to scale insect damage. Control method: pay attention to ventilation, do not place orchid plants too densely together, and when only a small number are found, use a soft cloth to wipe away the scale insects; repeating several times can eradicate the pest.
5：Soft rot
(1) Disease symptoms
Bacterial soft rot mainly harms the marginal leaves, crown leaves, leaf sheaths and basal stem. When it harms the marginal leaves, at first mung-bean-sized, round, water-soaked spots appear on the upper surface of the leaf, and the expansion speed is extremely fast; under suitable conditions, within 5-8 h they can rapidly expand into round water-soaked rotten spots 3-4 cm in diameter, and then spread into patches or even the whole leaf, causing the leaf to become soft-rotted; after the leaf mesophyll soft-rots, thread-like leaf veins remain, and a pus-like exudate overflows, giving off a rotten-apple smell. When it harms the leaf sheath, it starts from the sheathing membrane and goes upward along the leaf veins, causing local yellowing of the leaf; after expansion, the leaf sheath together with the leaf base becomes discoloured and soft-rotted, and the entire leaf drops off. The symptoms of crown leaf infection and marginal leaf infection are basically the same, and in serious cases it rots together with the basal stem, and the entire plant dies.
(2) Causes of the disease
2.1 Repeated use of sheds and greenhouses, large pathogen base
The pathogens causing soft rot include 2 kinds, bacteria and fungi; they both overwinter in soil, weeds, pot seedling beds and seedlings, spread through wind and rain, and invade through wounds and stomata; under suitable conditions both can cause disease, becoming the main source of infection for the initial diseased plants. The larger the pathogen base, the more severe the disease in that year. Phalaenopsis mostly uses soilless cultivation in greenhouses; because the sheds and greenhouses are used repeatedly, a large number of pathogens reside in the indoor soil, seedling beds, trays and pots, and walls, making the disease worse year after year. Even in a new greenhouse, because seedlings are introduced from epidemic areas, the seedlings themselves carry the pathogen, which also becomes an important route for long-distance spread of the disease.
2.2 High temperature and high humidity
According to observation, when the temperature exceeds 26°C and the humidity exceeds 60%, the plants begin to develop the disease, and as temperature and humidity increase the lesions expand rapidly and the speed of spread accelerates [2]. While greenhouses keep in heat, they also increase the humidity inside; especially in summer and autumn, the humidity approaches saturation and the temperature is also much higher than the outdoor temperature; even with fans for ventilation and water curtains for cooling, the daytime temperature is still above 30°C, and at night it is also 27-30°C. While the water curtain lowers the temperature, it also increases the humidity inside. Therefore, conditions inside the greenhouse are more conducive to disease than outside. When watering, the splashed water droplets very easily spread the pathogens on diseased plants to the surroundings, forming a disease centre area centred on the old diseased plants. While the fan ventilates, it also accelerates the indoor air flow, speeding up the diffusion of pathogens within the greenhouse. At the same time, because the humidity is greater at night, the speed of lesion expansion and the plant disease incidence are much higher at night than during the day. Overnight, small spots become large spots, and healthy plants become diseased plants. There is a great difference in susceptibility among plant lines. Generally, large-leaved varieties are more susceptible, those with a thick waxy leaf surface are more resistant, plants that have not flowered are more resistant, and plants that have already flowered are more susceptible; the Ruby variety is the most susceptible, and Taicun Red Angel and Shihua Diamond are not resistant.
(3) Control measures
3.1 Do a good job of disinfecting sheds, greenhouses and seedlings
In spring, before seedlings are moved in the sheds and greenhouses, especially repeatedly used greenhouses, disinfection must be carried out thoroughly in order to eradicate overwintering pathogens and reduce the pathogen base. For the agent, 40% asomate at 100 times dilution, or sodium pentachlorophenate at 200 times dilution can be sprayed indoors, or 500 g per sq m of quicklime can be spread for floor disinfection; after applying the agent, close the shed for 3-4 d. In new areas, avoid introducing seedlings from epidemic areas, and pay attention to the inspection and quarantine of newly introduced seedlings; after entering the shed, immediately spray with 10% Duoxiu water agent at 800 times dilution for sterilisation, spraying 2-3 times consecutively. Susceptible lines should be cultivated separately from other lines to avoid cultivating them in the same room and on the same bed, reducing cross-infection.
3.2 Strengthen water and fertiliser management
Phalaenopsis is a flower with a high water requirement, but too large or too frequent a watering amount, with too much water in the medium in the pot and long-term saturation, poor aeration, easily causes root rot, affects the plant's healthy growth and lowers disease resistance. Each watering should follow the principle of alternating dry and wet, not watering until dry, watering slowly and gently, to prevent water from splashing onto the leaves. It is appropriate for the water to just seep to the medium at the bottom of the pot. Generally, watering in the morning is better; avoid watering in the evening and leaving water on the leaves overnight, and keep the water temperature as close to room temperature as possible. For seedlings whose medium has been too wet for a long time, the pot bag can be removed to air the seedlings. Phalaenopsis fertilisation is generally carried out together with watering. Fertilisation should follow the principle of light fertiliser applied frequently, and compound fertilisers rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and organic fertilisers are suitable; at the seedling stage a compound fertiliser with a high nitrogen content can be applied, at the flower-forcing stage a compound fertiliser with high phosphorus and potassium can be applied, and in summer at high temperature during the disease period trace elements such as calcium and magnesium can also be added.
3.3 Lower the temperature and humidity in the shed or greenhouse, and strengthen patrols of the garden
The optimum temperature for Phalaenopsis growth is 25-30°C, and the optimum humidity is 60%-70%, but in summer the temperature and humidity inside the shed greatly exceed these limits; adding a double layer of shade netting can not only lower the temperature inside the shed, but also prevent strong light from scorching the leaves. Simple sheds without exhaust fans should have the surrounding shed cloth opened to lower temperature and humidity. Greenhouses equipped with fan and water curtain should especially pay attention to reducing the water curtain watering time at night while extending the exhaust time. Seedlings on the seedling bed should not be placed too densely; a certain plant and row spacing should be left to avoid leaves crossing and overlapping, so as to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and create a good microclimate for healthy plant growth. Always keep the inside of the shed clean and hygienic, ensuring no weeds and no leftover diseased leaves in the shed. From the beginning of the disease, persist in patrolling the garden 2-3 times a day to promptly discover diseased plants and remove diseased leaves; for diseased leaves with small lesions, they can be cut off at the healthy part 4-5 cm from the lesion. Leaves that are completely rotted should be thoroughly removed together with the leaf sheath. Diseased leaves should be promptly taken out of the shed and buried deep. Diseased and remnant plants should be promptly isolated to prevent renewed infection. The scissors and knives used must also be disinfected to prevent human transmission.
3.4 Chemical control
For bacterial soft rot, from the beginning of the disease, alternately spray 600 times dilution of Caijunqing or 3000-4000 times dilution of agricultural streptomycin every 7-10 d; for fungal soft rot, 80% thiophanate-methyl or 80% mancozeb at 800-1000 times dilution can be used, spraying 2-3 times consecutively. Spraying should be uniform, so that the leaf surface drips and the base is soaked. Spraying is best finished at 15-16 o'clock, so that the water on the leaf surface can dry before nightfall, lowering the humidity inside the shed and on the leaf surface.
(II)Viruses
The symptoms of a Phalaenopsis infected by a virus are smaller flowers and slower growth speed. However, the growth traits of some varieties are not affected by virus infection. The symptoms of the virus are more obvious during the low-temperature flower-forcing stage. The greatest impact of the virus on Phalaenopsis lies in the growth speed.
(III)Insects and small animals
1. Slugs and snails
Slugs and snails will bite small holes in young plants, and can also harm many plants within just a few days. They also bite and damage the root tips. Using chemicals can effectively control this kind of small animal.
2. Mites
Red spider mites cause slight deformation and serious colour changes on the leaves. Because their distribution is concentrated, they can be controlled with insecticides.
3. Thrips: brown thrips can usually be found on every part, and appear in groups. Chemical agents are difficult to eradicate them with. Removing diseased plants is the best solution.
4. Sciaridae, fungus gnats: this kind of insect attacks the root tips. Applying predatory natural enemies (Hypoaspis predatory mite, 100-150/ 2) and hanging yellow sticky insect boards can prevent infection.
5. Locusts: the pests are mostly small locusts. After the leaves are damaged, large feeding marks are caused; when young flower stalks are damaged, in serious cases they break; after the petals are chewed, the flowers are incomplete.
Control method: 1) Remove weeds to reduce places for locusts to breed and inhabit. 2) Use 50% sumithion emulsion at 1000 times dilution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
6. Scale insects: the pests mainly parasitise the leaves, leaf sheaths and pseudobulbs of orchids, using piercing-sucking mouthparts to penetrate deep into the orchid's stomata and suck nutrients; in serious cases the leaves yellow, wither and drop. They mostly occur in cultivation sites with high humidity, poor ventilation and insufficient sunlight. This kind of pest secretes honeydew, inducing sooty mould, affecting plant growth and ornamental value.
Control method: 1) When only a small number occur, use a soft-bristled brush dipped in water to brush off the eggs, or cut off the affected parts and take them out to burn. 2) Ladybirds are the natural enemies of scale insects and can prey on large numbers of scale insects, thereby suppressing their occurrence. 3) When scale insects occur in relatively large numbers, spray 50% sumithion emulsion at 1000 times dilution or 50% malathion emulsion at 800 times dilution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
7. Aphids: they mainly cause damage in spring and early summer, sucking the sap and nutrients of tender leaves, tender buds and developing flower spikes and flower buds, causing growth to be inhibited and the leaves and flower spikes to become deformed and twisted and to develop poorly. The honeydew they secrete attracts ants, triggering sooty mould or other fungal diseases.
Control method: 1) Use omethoate or pyrethrin at 1000 times dilution, spraying alternately to kill them. 2) Natural enemies such as Chilocorus kuwanae, Japanese square-headed beetle and Chilocorus rubidus have a good effect in preying on aphids. 3) Use yellow boards to trap and kill them.
8. Whiteflies: they usually cluster and parasitise on orchid plants, and in serious cases the entire leaf, leaf sheath and pseudobulb are covered with whiteflies. Their reproductive capacity is very strong, and they can cause orchid leaves to dry up and drop.
Control method: 1) When causing damage, spray 50% sumithion emulsion at 1000 times dilution or 50% malathion emulsion at 800 times dilution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays. 2) Yellow boards can better trap and kill greenhouse whiteflies.
9. Rats: rats will gnaw on orchid seedlings, young buds, flower stalks and even orchid pseudobulbs, often biting them into pieces, causing losses.
Control method: mousetraps, electric mouse traps or poison bait can be set up. They often need to be used in rotation to achieve the control effect. [12]
(IV)Physiological abnormalities caused by the environment
1. Flower bud drop
At the stage when flowering is completed, if the light is too strong or the temperature too high, it easily causes flower buds to drop from the flower stalk. Poor root quality also causes this phenomenon. If flowers are not given an acclimatisation stage before transport, bud drop also occurs.
2. Cold injury during transport:
When plants are transported from the growing area to the sales area, orange-red spots may appear on the leaf surface, usually caused by cell death due to cold injury. Other environmental stresses or too strong light can also cause them.
(V)Chemical injury: due to the use of unsuitable chemical agents.

Related varieties in the classification of Phalaenopsis varieties
Phalaenopsis equestris is a variety of Phalaenopsis. The flowers are slightly smaller.
Phalaenopsis aphrodite is a variety of Phalaenopsis. The leaves are large, flat, thick and fleshy, green, and have markings. The flower stem branches.
Phalaenopsis schilleriana, also known as Schiller's Phalaenopsis. It is a common species of the same genus. The leaves are large, oblong, 70 cm long and 14 cm wide; the leaf surface has grey and green markings, and the leaf back is purple. The flowers number more than 170, 8-9 cm in diameter, light purple with white edges. The flowering period is spring and summer.
Phalaenopsis mannii, also known as Banna Phalaenopsis. It is a common species of the same genus. The leaves are 30 cm long, green, with a yellow leaf base; the sepals and petals are orange-red with brown-purple transverse stripes. The lip is white, 3-lobed; the side lobes are upright with a truncate apex, the mid-lobe is nearly half-moon-shaped, raised at the centre apex, with dense papillose hairs on both sides. The flowering period is March to April.
Phalaenopsis amabilis is a common species of the same genus. The leaves are 40 cm long, with an obvious main vein on the leaf surface, green, with purple on the leaf back; the flowers are white, often with green or creamy yellow at the centre.
Phalaenopsis philippinensis is a common species of the same genus. The flower stem is about 60 cm long and drooping; the flowers are brown with purple-brown transverse markings, and the flowering period is May to June.
Phalaenopsis wilsonii is a common species of the same genus. The sepals and petals are yellow-green, the lip is purple, and the base is raised in a nipple-like shape on the back.

Distribution area of Phalaenopsis
Most Phalaenopsis are produced in the humid regions of Asia, naturally distributed in Assam, Myanmar, the islands of the Indian Ocean, the Malay Peninsula, the South Seas Islands, the Philippines and even low-latitude tropical islands such as Taiwan, China. The Phalaenopsis produced in the forests around Wusenyong in Taitung and on Green Island are the most famous. Variety types: there are about 70 or more native species in the world, but most native species have small and unremarkable flowers; the Phalaenopsis cultivated as a commodity are mostly artificially hybridised and selected varieties!
The varieties selected and bred through hybridisation number around 530 or more. Those with yellow flowers are rather precious. There is a yellow-flowered variety called "Emperor", which can be called a "superstar", and its price is very high. As for blue-flowered varieties, they are also relatively rare. At the 1952 and 1953 international orchid expositions, the Phalaenopsis sent for exhibition from Taiwan, China won gold medal trophies for two consecutive years. At the 14th orchid exhibition held in Hong Kong, China in 1989, a white-petalled, red-lipped Phalaenopsis sent for exhibition by Mr. Hu Bingchi won the overall championship prize. These outstanding honours laid a solid foundation for the development of Phalaenopsis. Today, the consumption of Phalaenopsis by people in European and American countries is continuously increasing, and Phalaenopsis is indispensable as decoration at any high-class banquet. Many brides and bridesmaids prefer to use it as bouquets and corsages. Italy alone sold more than 2.6 million Phalaenopsis plants in 1990, setting a historical record. In Hong Kong, China each pot sells for about 70-100 Hong Kong dollars, and mother-stem cut flowers sell for 15-30 Hong Kong dollars!

The role and uses of Phalaenopsis, its influence on the home
Phalaenopsis fills a home with a joyful atmosphere, embodying a home style that yearns for happiness. We all know that there are many kinds of Phalaenopsis; the genus Phalaenopsis is a famous cut flower type; Phalaenopsis is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several arching flower stems and large flowers, named because the flower shape resembles a butterfly. Its flower posture is graceful and its colours are gorgeous; the most attractive are blue, pink, red, yellow and pink; with so many colour choices, if viewed together they have a colourful effect, which can fill a home with a festive atmosphere, like the New Year. Think back to how we feel every New Year; we all have many wishes and are very happy, and everyone has a new beginning. As the saying goes: "When a person meets a happy event, their spirits are high." Plant Phalaenopsis, and the bright colours make a home full of joy; when the mood is good, the spirits are naturally high.
Phalaenopsis can create a noble home style. Everyone knows that Phalaenopsis is also relatively expensive among flowers, just like when we usually buy a piece of clothing: a famous brand can be seen at a glance, and that feeling is different; Phalaenopsis is the same, so pairing it with equally classic and expensive Chinese-style furniture adds even more luxurious texture, embodying a noble, elegant and luxurious home style.
Feng shui effects
Besides its ornamental role, Phalaenopsis also has many feng shui roles.
1. Phalaenopsis is a yang-positive plant and is suitable for people whose five elements belong to fire to grow.
When people use feng shui adjustment items based on yin-yang and the five elements, they have various different needs, and may be constrained by many factors such as the setting, time limits, customs, and economic conditions. Feng shui also classifies the five-element and yin-yang attributes of various flowers and plants. For example, yang plants are often those suited to surviving in environments such as outdoors, dry, and sunny, as well as plants whose appearance gives people a masculine, upright feeling, or those with characteristics of having roots, broad leaves, straightness, and an upward, fervent nature. On the contrary, yin plants are those suited to moist, low-temperature, indoor cultivation, as well as plants whose appearance gives people a delicate, slender, cold and stern feeling, all of which belong to yin plants. Phalaenopsis belongs to yang plants; people whose five elements belong to fire can place a pot of Phalaenopsis at home, and this will be beneficial to development in all aspects.
Two: Phalaenopsis has many wonderful flower meanings and symbolism, and from the perspective of feng shui it has a certain promoting effect.
White Phalaenopsis: it foretells pure love and precious friendship. A newly married family placing one at home foretells a beautiful marriage, and people living with friends placing one at home foretells harmonious coexistence.
Red Phalaenopsis: it means a smooth official career and perfect happiness. This, I believe, is the wish of all young couples. Plant a red Phalaenopsis and add a touch of color to your marriage and career.
Striped Phalaenopsis: striped means everything goes smoothly and all wishes come true, so striped Phalaenopsis is suitable for every family and people of every age to plant and use as home decoration.
Yellow Phalaenopsis: yellow implies a flourishing career and booming business. People in business should plant one at home; even if things do not improve, at least they will not get worse. In addition, mini Phalaenopsis represents a happy angel and the prime of youth.

The cultural background of Phalaenopsis: prose for pleasure
Phalaenopsis is a beautiful "princess," bringing people much fragrance and beauty.
The stem of Phalaenopsis is black, the leaves are spoon-shaped and emerald green, and the beautiful flowers emerge from the spoon, wearing purple garments; some have only unfolded two or three petals, some have fully opened all their petals, revealing pearl-like stamens; some are still flower buds, looking as if they are about to burst open at any moment. At this moment, is the Phalaenopsis I see not just little purple butterflies? Oh! I understand, and this is how Phalaenopsis got its name.
Little butterflies, one after another, rest on the flower stem, as if they are looking at all of us! They also seem to be saying to us: "Everyone, look at me quickly, I am the princess among a hundred flowers!" At this moment Phalaenopsis smiles at us; now it nods, now it looks here, now it looks there, and sometimes it even dances for us from time to time! The Phalaenopsis princess is truly both naughty and lovely!
Phalaenopsis is really so beautiful!

The flower language of Phalaenopsis
White Phalaenopsis: pure love, precious friendship
Red-centered Phalaenopsis: good fortune ahead, forever united
Red Phalaenopsis: smooth career, perfect happiness
Striped Phalaenopsis: everything goes smoothly, all wishes come true
Yellow Phalaenopsis: flourishing career, booming business
Mini Phalaenopsis: happy angel in the prime of youth
Phalaenopsis flower language: I love you, happiness flies to you
Phalaenopsis corresponding zodiac signs: Aquarius & Sagittarius, representing loyalty, wisdom, rationality, and virtue
Phalaenopsis pictures

Phalaenopsis pictures and introduction

(2011-08-02 12:30:21)

Tags: Phalaenopsis pictures

Introduction

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Category: Beautiful scenery

Colorful Phalaenopsis, delicate and charming enough to drive people crazy

Morphological characteristics

There are about 100 species of Phalaenopsis, native to Europe and Asia, North Africa, North America, and Central America. Two very famous species: Platanthera bifolia (P. bifolia) has white flowers and is a relatively small plant; Platanthera chlorantha (P. chlorantha) has large greenish-white flowers and a relatively larger plant form. Both have 5 to 15 flowers, fragrant, clustered into spike-like inflorescences.

The stem of Phalaenopsis is very short, often wrapped by leaf sheaths. The leaves are slightly fleshy, usually 3-4 or more, green on the front, purple on the back, elliptical, oblong, or sickle-shaped oblong, 10-20 cm long, 3-6 cm wide, with a sharp or blunt tip, wedge-shaped or sometimes skewed at the base, with a short and wide sheath. The inflorescence is lateral at the base of the stem, up to 50 cm long, unbranched or sometimes branched; the inflorescence stalk is green, 4-5 mm thick, covered with several scale-like sheaths; the inflorescence axis is purple-green, more or less zigzag, usually with several flowers opening one by one from the base toward the apex; the floral bracts are ovate-triangular, 3-5 mm long; the pedicel together with the ovary is green, slender, 2.5-4.5 cm long; the flowers are white, beautiful, and long-lasting; the dorsal sepal is nearly elliptical, 2.5-3 cm long, 1.4-1.7 cm wide, with a blunt tip, slightly narrowed at the base, with reticulate veins; the lateral sepals are skewed ovate, 2.6-3.5 cm long, 1.4-2.2 cm wide, with a blunt tip, narrowed at the base and attached to the column foot, with reticulate veins; the petals are rhombic-circular, 2.7-3.4 cm long, 2.4-3.8 cm wide, with a rounded tip, narrowed at the base into a short claw, with reticulate veins; the lip is 3-lobed, with a claw about 7-9 mm long at the base; the lateral lobes are upright, obovate, 2 cm long, with a rounded or sharp tip, narrowed at the base, with red spots or fine stripes, and with 1 yellow fleshy protrusion at the intersection between the two lateral lobes and the base of the midlobe; the midlobe is somewhat rhombic, 1.5-2.8 cm long, 1.4-1.7 cm wide, gradually narrowed at the tip and with 2 tendrils 8-18 mm long, wedge-shaped at the base; the column is stout, about 1 cm long, with a broad column foot; there are 2 pollinia, nearly spherical, each split into 2 unequal parts. Flowering period April-June.

The scientific name of Phalaenopsis means, according to the original Greek meaning, "an orchid like a butterfly." It can survive by absorbing nutrients from the air and is classified in the category of epiphytic orchids, and can be said to be a large clan among tropical orchids. Its plant is very peculiar, having neither creeping stems nor pseudobulbs. Each plant grows only several broad leaves as fat as spoons, alternately stacked above the base. Thick white aerial roots are exposed around the leaves, and some cling to the outer wall of the flower pot, full of natural wild charm. When the Chinese New Year season arrives, a flower stalk up to a full chi long is drawn out from the leaf axil, and then opens one flower after another. Each flower has 5 sepals, with the lip embedded in the middle. The flower colors are bright and dazzling, including pure white, goose yellow, and crimson, as well as pale purple, orange-red, and azure blue. Quite a few varieties have two or three colors, some look as if embroidered with patterned stripes, and some look as if evenly sprayed with colored dots. Each stalk blooms seven or eight flowers, and at most twelve or thirteen, and can be enjoyed continuously for sixty or seventy days.

The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous category of cut flowers, with more than 50 species in the entire genus. Phalaenopsis is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several arching flower stems. The flowers are large and named for their butterfly-like shape. Its flower posture is graceful and its colors are gorgeous, making it a treasure among tropical orchids, with the reputation of "queen of orchids."

Phalaenopsis has a graceful flower posture and many elegant flower colors, and is named for its butterfly-like flower shape. It is widely cultivated in countries around the world. Although it belongs to the epiphytic orchids, it has no pseudobulbs, only a very short stem at the base. The leaves are wide and thick, long elliptical, and can reach more than 50 cm. Some varieties have beautiful pale silver mottling on the leaves, with purple underneath. The flower stalk is drawn out from the leaf axil, slightly curved, of varying lengths, with several to hundreds of flowers, shaped like butterflies, with long elliptical sepals and a lip whose tip is three-lobed. The flower colors are many, and it can bloom for more than a month. Abroad it is mostly used as cut flowers, and it is a high-end product among Western orchids. The vast majority of Phalaenopsis have no scent; there are also scented ones, which we call fragrant Phalaenopsis. This kind of Phalaenopsis is very rare, but many people say after smelling it that it is a foul smell, and some people who worked near those flowers were made dizzy by the smell. Growth habits: likes high temperature, high humidity, and a ventilated environment; not tolerant of waterlogging, tolerant of semi-shade, avoid direct sunlight, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15 degrees.

Origin and distribution

Phalaenopsis was discovered in 1750, and more than seventy native species have been discovered so far, most produced in humid Asian regions, naturally distributed in low-latitude tropical islands such as Assam, Myanmar, the islands of the Indian Ocean, the Malay Peninsula, the South Seas Islands, the Philippines, and even Taiwan, China. The Phalaenopsis produced in the forests around Wusenyong in Taitung and on Green Island are the most famous. Variety types

There are about more than 70 native species worldwide, but most native species have small and unremarkable flowers. The Phalaenopsis cultivated commercially are mostly artificially hybridized and selected varieties.

There are about more than 530 varieties bred through hybridization and selection. Those with yellow flowers are relatively more precious. There is a yellow-flowered variety called "Emperor," which can be called a "superstar," and its price is very high. As for blue-flowered varieties, they are also relatively rare. At the international Western orchid expositions in 1952 and 1953, the Phalaenopsis sent for exhibition from Taiwan, China won gold medals and trophies for two consecutive years. At the 14th orchid exhibition held in Hong Kong, China in 1989, a Phalaenopsis with white petals and a red lip sent for exhibition by Mr. Hu Bingchi won the overall championship award. These outstanding honors laid a solid foundation for the development of Phalaenopsis. Today, the consumption of Phalaenopsis by people in Europe and America is constantly increasing, and Phalaenopsis is indispensable as decoration at all high-end banquets. Many brides and bridesmaids prefer to use it as bouquets and corsages. In Italy alone, more than 2.6 million Phalaenopsis plants were sold in 1990, setting a historic high. In Hong Kong, China each pot sells for about 70-100 Hong Kong dollars, and cut flowers from the mother stalk sell for 15-30 Hong Kong dollars.

1. Phalaenopsis equestris is a variety of Phalaenopsis. The flowers are slightly smaller.

2. Taiwan Phalaenopsis is a variety of Phalaenopsis. The leaves are large, flat, thick, green, and patterned. The flower stem is branched.

3. Spotted-leaf Phalaenopsis also known as Schiller's Phalaenopsis. It is a common species in the same genus. The leaves are large, oblong, 70 cm long, 14 cm wide, with gray and green markings on the leaf surface and purple on the leaf back. There are more than 170 flowers, 8-9 cm in diameter, pale purple, with white edges. Flowering period spring and summer.

4. Mann's Phalaenopsis also known as Banna Phalaenopsis. It is a common species in the same genus. The leaves are 30 cm long, green, with yellow at the leaf base; the sepals and petals are orange-red with brown-purple horizontal stripes. The lip is white, 3-lobed; the lateral lobes are upright with a truncate tip; the midlobe is nearly half-moon-shaped, raised at the central tip, with dense papillose hairs on both sides. Flowering period March-April.

5. Aphrodite's Phalaenopsis is a common species in the same genus. The leaves are 40 cm long, with obvious main veins on the leaf surface, green, with purple on the leaf back; the flowers are white, often with green or creamy yellow in the center.

6. Philippine Phalaenopsis is a common species in the same genus. The flower stem is about 60 cm long, drooping; the flowers are brown with purple-brown horizontal markings. Flowering period

May-June.

7. Western Yunnan Phalaenopsis is a common species in the same genus. The sepals and petals are yellow-green, the lip is purple, and the base is raised on the back in a papillary shape.

Care and cultivation

Overview: likes high temperature, high humidity, and a ventilated semi-shade environment; avoid waterlogging and stuffy air. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15 degrees. Because Phalaenopsis originated in tropical rainforest regions, it is by nature fond of warmth and afraid of cold. The suitable growth temperature is 18-30°C; in winter, below 15°C it will stop growing, and below 10°C it is prone to death. For mass production in various places in Lingnan, cold-proof facilities must be available and protected cultivation must be carried out. If growing a small quantity at home, move it indoors immediately when cold weather comes and maintain the temperature so it can safely overwinter.

For its propagation, cell tissue culture is mostly used; after test-tube seedlings are grown and transplanted, they can bloom after about two years. For some mother plants, after the flowering period ends, the axillary buds on the flower stalk sometimes also grow and develop into plantlets, and when they grow roots they can be cut from the flower stalk for division propagation.

Medium: because of its epiphytic nature, the planting material for potting should not be soil, but rather sphagnum moss, pumice, tree fern scraps, charcoal fragments, etc., or the seedlings can be directly fixed on a tree fern board (also called snake wood) and allowed to attach and grow on their own. This cultivation method imitates its original ecological environment. When it blooms, hang the whole board on the wall for viewing, which indeed has a special charm. Phalaenopsis has quite a few aerial roots, and their root tips are emerald green and quite sensitive, so they must be carefully protected; the root tips must never be touched or damaged, otherwise that root will stop growing.

Temperature: Phalaenopsis belongs to the tropical high-temperature orchids, and the suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees Celsius. Below 15 degrees it enters dormancy, and below 10 degrees it is prone to death. But above 35 degrees high temperature affects growth and makes it prone to disease. Flowering requires experiencing one month of low temperature at 15-18 degrees to promote flower bud differentiation; afterward, if low temperature continues, the flower stalk sprouts slowly.

Air: Phalaenopsis likes an environment with high air humidity and ventilation. The air is required to constantly maintain a humidity of 60%-80%, and air circulation should be maintained, preferably with a gentle breeze. There must not be too much standing water in the pot. If the roots are surrounded by liquid water for 6-8 hours, they are very prone to rot, so ventilation is the key to growing Phalaenopsis well. The medium needs to be loose and breathable so the roots grow strong. Avoid dry, hot wind. When growing in northern winters, it must not be placed on a radiator or directly facing air-conditioning airflow.

Sunlight: under natural conditions, Phalaenopsis mostly grows epiphytically on the trunks and branches of tall trees in tropical rainforests, sheltered by tree shade. Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise it will cause large-area leaf scorch, but it also cannot tolerate indoor conditions that are too shady, which will lead to slow growth and be unfavorable for nutrient storage and flowering. It is best to place it on a north- or east-facing balcony or beside a windowsill so it receives scattered light; then it will grow robustly with fewer diseases.

Water: because it has no creeping stems and no pseudobulbs, Phalaenopsis is not drought-tolerant, and because of its epiphytic nature Phalaenopsis also fears waterlogging and wetness. In summer high-temperature periods, keep the material moist; you can use spraying to lower temperature and increase humidity (but do not let water remain in the leaf center, as it easily causes crown rot). You can also place a moist towel beside the flower pot to increase humidity, but be sure to note: the roots must not be excessively wet and shaded for a long time, especially being surrounded by liquid water for a long time makes them very prone to rot. For example, the amount of watering each day in summer should be such that it can naturally air-dry the same day, alternating dry and wet, which will greatly reduce the incidence of root rot and disease. In winter, water less and only keep the material slightly moist.

Fertilization The principle for fertilizing Phalaenopsis is light fertilizer applied frequently, and never use overly concentrated chemical fertilizer. The suitable concentration is about 1 time further diluted from the concentration stated on the fertilizer packaging, that is, about 1500x-2000x. Special Phalaenopsis fertilizer can also be used. During the growth period, apply nitrogen and potassium fertilizer; during the flowering promotion period, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Applying once a week or once every half month is sufficient. Do not fertilize during the flowering period or dormant period, but attention should be paid to appropriately supplement fertilizer before and after flowering.

Growth habits

Likes high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shade environment; the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 18°C.

Conditions for promoting flowering

Phalaenopsis flowering is mainly affected by temperature. Flower bud differentiation requires low-temperature stimulation. After stimulation for one month with daytime 20-23 degrees and nighttime low temperature below 18 degrees (but it must not be below 15 degrees for a long time), the latent buds in the stem can be transformed into flower buds. Afterward, when the flower buds break through the epidermis and grow into a flower stalk, a relatively higher temperature is needed, and the normal growth temperature is suitable. Continuous low temperature will cause the flower stalk to emerge slowly, the flowers to be smaller, or even to wither midway. During the flowering period, appropriately increasing sunlight helps the flowers be larger and more colorful and bloom earlier.

Disease prevention

Because Phalaenopsis grows in a high-temperature, high-humidity environment, it is susceptible to pathogen invasion, and once disease occurs it spreads rapidly, so prevention should be given priority. Common viral diseases include leaf spot, root rot, and anthracnose. In normal times, use the pesticide chlorothalonil (this pesticide has good preventive effect and low pathogen resistance, but has no therapeutic effect on already diseased plants. Crown copper clear, with its upgraded product Dacotech formulation, is even more effective), or thiophanate-methyl (this pesticide can prevent and treat, but pathogens easily develop resistance, so it must not be applied alone for a long time) at 1000-1500x for prevention, spraying once every seven or eight days, for 3 consecutive sprays. These liquid medicines leave white marks on the leaves; there is no need to wipe them off, as this helps continue to exert the bactericidal effect. Among the above similar products, suspension formulations are more effective and longer-lasting than powder formulations. In operation, human absorption toxicity is lower.

Stage cultivation

From flask seedlings to flowering and sale, Phalaenopsis goes through 5 growth stages: flask seedlings, small seedlings, medium seedlings, large seedlings, and the flowering stage. The key points of cultivation management are as follows.

One, early-stage management. In the flask seedling growth stage, the optimal growth temperature is 25°C-28°C during the day and 18-20°C at night. The suitable growth temperature for the small seedling stage is 23°C. Above 35°C or below 10°C, growth stops. The temperature for small seedlings just out of the flask should be lower than 20°C, the relative air humidity should be maintained at 70-80%, and the light should be controlled below 1000 lux. After a transition period, the light is gradually increased to 10,000 lux, and finally can reach 15,000 lux.

The fertilizer and water management of the small seedling growth stage plays a decisive role. Within 3-5 days after tissue-cultured seedlings come out of the flask, it is not suitable to apply fertilizer or water, but sterilization treatment must be carried out immediately. Carbendazim 1000x solution can be used for leaf surface sterilization, and rooting powder should be sprayed the next day, for 3 sprays. After a 3-5 day transition period, apply fertilizer for the first time, spraying with Peter's Professional 10 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 30:10:10) 1800x solution, with the standard being that the sphagnum moss is completely wet. One day later, use Peter's Professional 10 (30:10:10) 2500x solution as foliar fertilizer. One week later, according to the dry-wet condition of the small seedlings, apply fertilizer for the second time; at this time the fertilization principle is high nitrogen, low phosphorus, and low potassium.

After 4 months of cultivation, the small seedlings grow into medium seedlings, and at this time they should be repotted. The tightness of the sphagnum moss should be based on the tightness of the muscle below the palm when the hand naturally makes a fist; the tightness can be greater or smaller, but the standard must be unified. Management in the medium seedling period is basically similar to the small seedling stage, but the light can be increased to 20,000 lux. For fertilization, alternate the use of Peter's Professional 8 and 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratios respectively 20:10:20 and 20:20:20). In the medium seedling period, pay attention to the orientation and growth trend of new leaves; generally place them in an east-west orientation, and periodically rotate the leaves. At this time the fertilization principle is low nitrogen, high phosphorus, and high potassium.

After 4-6 months of cultivation, medium seedlings enter the large seedling stage. The management method is the same as for medium seedlings, but the fertilizer used is Peter's Professional 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 20:20:20).

Two, late-stage management. The flowering period is the management of the late growth stage. Phalaenopsis flowering is promoted by low temperature, so in addition to fine management, temperature should also be well controlled. First maintain the temperature above 20°C for 2 months, then lower the nighttime temperature below 18°C, and after 45 days flower buds form. After flower bud formation, keep the nighttime temperature at 18-20°C and the daytime temperature at 25-28°C. After 3-4 months it can bloom; during the flowering period the temperature is slightly lowered, but not below 15°C. After the flower buds emerge, a support stake must be erected, that is, erect the support stake before the flower stem extends and lodges, and tie the flower stem to the support stake, leaving space for the flower stem to elongate and thicken.

Water and fertilizer management during the flowering period is especially important. Watering should be carried out at 10 a.m., avoiding directly sprinkling water onto the flowers. After watering, use an exhaust fan for ventilation to keep the air in the greenhouse fresh and allow residual moisture to dissipate as quickly as possible. At this time, fertilization with Peter's Professional 2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 10:30:20) 1000x solution is best, depending on the condition of the Phalaenopsis itself.

Phalaenopsis is susceptible to soft rot and gray spot disease. Soft rot is extremely contagious; once discovered, immediately isolate the diseased plant. Diseased plants can be controlled with mancozeb or Houshengling. Usually sterilize once every 15 days.

Care

1. Cultivation medium: the common cultivation media for Phalaenopsis are mainly sphagnum moss and moss.

2. Temperature: growing Phalaenopsis at home first requires ensuring temperature. Phalaenopsis likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment. During the growth period, the minimum temperature should be maintained above 15°C, and the suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16°C to 30°C. Attention should be paid to increasing temperature in autumn and winter, at the turn of winter and spring, and when winter temperatures are low. Generally, rooms with heating equipment in winter can easily reach this temperature, but note that the flowers should not be placed directly on the radiator or too close to it. When summer temperatures are on the high side, cooling is needed, and attention should be paid to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32°C, Phalaenopsis usually enters a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperature should be avoided. Around the Spring Festival is the full flowering period; appropriately lowering the temperature can prolong the viewing time. During flowering, the nighttime temperature is best controlled between 13°C and 16°C, but must not be lower than 13°C.

3. Watering: Phalaenopsis originated in primeval forests, where there is more mist and higher temperatures. Phalaenopsis has no thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients; if the temperature in the air is insufficient, the leaves wrinkle and become weak and limp. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and cared for in a ventilated, high-humidity environment. The suitable air humidity for Phalaenopsis growth is 60-0%. During the vigorous elongation period of new roots, water more; during the dormant period after flowering, water less. In spring and autumn, water once every day around 5 p.m.; in summer, when the plant grows vigorously, water once each at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.; in winter, when light is weak and temperature is low, watering once every other week is enough, preferably before 10 a.m. If a cold wave hits, it is not suitable to water; keep it dry, and resume watering after the cold wave passes. The principle of watering is to water when dry and stop when wet; when the surface of the cultivation medium becomes dry, water thoroughly once, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, you can use a sprayer to spray directly on the leaf surface; it is enough to see the leaf surface moist, but note that during the flowering period, the water mist must not be sprayed onto the flowers. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before watering.

4. Light: although Phalaenopsis relatively prefers shade, the orchid plant still needs to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Appropriate light can promote Phalaenopsis flowering and make the flowers more colorful and long-lasting. Generally it should be placed in a place with scattered indoor light, and direct sunlight should be avoided.

5. Ventilation: the normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air, so home-grown Phalaenopsis must have good ventilation, especially in the high-humidity period of summer. Good ventilation must be used to prevent heat stress, and it can also avoid infection by diseases and pests.

6. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized throughout the year, and unless low temperature lasts for a long time, fertilization should not be stopped. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilizer can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growth period, and a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7 to 10 days; organic fertilizer is suitable, and special Phalaenopsis nutrient solution can also be applied, but do not apply it when there are flower buds, otherwise the buds are prone to drop early. In summer when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing. In autumn and winter during the flower stem growth period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it should be dilute, applied about once every 2 to 3 weeks. Fertilization time is after watering in the afternoon. After fertilizing several times, use a large amount of water to flush the orchid pot and orchid plant, so as to avoid residual inorganic salts harming the roots.

7. Post-flowering management: the flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last as long as 2 to 3 months. When the flowers wither, the faded flowers must be cut off as early as possible, as this can reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stem is cut from the base at the 4th to 5th node, it can bloom again after 2 to 3 months. But this consumes too much of the plant's nutrients and is unfavorable for growth the next year. If you want it to bloom well again the next year, it is best to cut the flower stem from the base. When the medium ages, it should be replaced in a timely manner, otherwise air permeability deteriorates, causing root rot and weakening plant growth or even death. Generally, repotting in May when new leaves grow is suitable.

Precautions

1. Watering too frequently: friends who cultivate Phalaenopsis always worry that it lacks water, and water it every day regardless of whether the cultivation medium is dry, causing severe root rot.

2. Temperature too low: usually flowering Phalaenopsis plants are mostly marketed in early spring, and after being bought home they are generally placed in living rooms and other places for viewing. Although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the nighttime temperature is somewhat on the low side. On the other hand, professionally cultivated orchids are mostly in well-equipped greenhouses. By comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are somewhat insufficient, causing the plant's growth to weaken day by day. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well it is cared for, the orchid still may not bloom.

3. Excessive fertilization: applying fertilizer whenever available, and not paying attention to concentration, thinking that applying fertilizer will make it grow faster. One should know that Phalaenopsis should be given light fertilizer, applying small amounts many times. Remember that "supplementing" must not be excessive, otherwise it will be counterproductive.

4. Planting small plants in large pots: thinking that using a large pot can give Phalaenopsis a loose environment and sufficient material. In fact, after using a large pot, the sphagnum moss is not easy to dry. One should know that Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, and when air flows freely it is comfortable.

5. Dry buds on flowers: most Phalaenopsis nowadays are forced into bloom, and after leaving the base, once the environment changes, dry bud problems easily appear. At this time do not think it is dryness, do not water more, but increase indoor humidity and control indoor temperature; the temperature must not be too high. When buying flowers, try to choose those with thick petals.

Cut flower technology

Introduction to Phalaenopsis

The native habitat of Phalaenopsis is all tropical regions of Asia. In the wild, its daytime growth temperature is 28-35°C, nighttime temperature is 20-24°C, and it prefers high relative humidity and shaded conditions. This crop absorbs nutrients through roots and leaves. The root system is also used to fix the plant.

Anthura's breeding program has a professional breeding team at Anthura. The breeding objectives are divided into pot flowers and cut flowers. This company is also the only company that lists cut flowers in its breeding program. The genetic characteristics of the male and female parents require dominant differences to ensure that their progeny have stable heredity, so that they can become a new variety. Its germplasm sources include varieties preserved since 40 years ago, as well as new lines purchased from Asia. The development of new varieties includes hybrid development, selection, and mass propagation. Developing a new variety takes 7-9 years. From pollination to fruit pod formation takes 6 months, and from seed sowing to becoming a seedling takes 1 year. From seedling to flowering takes 1.5 years. Using 1 flower stalk to make tissue-cultured plantlets takes 2 years, and from mericlone plantlets to flowering takes 1.5 years, so 6.5 years have already passed. Only at this stage does mass propagation of mericlone plantlets begin.

Anthura's Phalaenopsis breeding program has two major directions: cut flowers and pot flowers. The selection program includes flower shape and flower color. For cut flowers, the most important selection criteria include the number of flower stalks produced, color, proportion of best quality, the fewer branches the better, thickness and strength of the flower stalk, development of flower stalk and flowers, flower shape, leaf arrangement, plant developmental traits, postharvest storage and transport characteristics, and vase life, etc. Postharvest characteristics are most closely related to heredity. The viewing period can vary from 5 days to 6 weeks. In addition to the above main selection criteria, other secondary selection criteria are also used to evaluate varieties, such as loss rate during orchid production and disease resistance.

Seedling characteristics: Anthura provides tissue-cultured plantlets and plug seedlings. Tissue-cultured plantlets need to be specially ordered. Customers using plug seedlings have two benefits: reducing losses during the acclimatization period of small seedlings, and reducing the cultivation period by 5-7 months. Each plug tray contains 40 small seedlings, and when delivered to the customer's greenhouse, transplanting can be carried out immediately.

The small seedlings in the rectangular tray have a leaf span of 10-14 cm, and usually have 2-3 well-grown leaves. Before transplanting the small seedlings into 12 cm soft pots, they must be graded. Anthura does not perform this grading work for customers. Usually the grower divides the small seedlings in the rectangular tray into two grades, large and small, and after transplanting they are cultivated on different benches. The cultivation period for small seedlings is 3-4 months longer than for large seedlings.

Transplanting small seedlings into 12 cm soft pots is still mainly manual labor. The small seedlings must be kept vertical, placed in the lower center of the soft pot, and planted at the correct height. If the plant growth point is too deep, it is prone to disease infection; if the transplanting depth is too shallow, support is poor. After transplanting, the arrangement of the soft pots is very important. After the orchid seedlings grow and the leaves begin to shade each other from sunlight, they must be spaced out to increase the distance between soft pots.

Cultivation plan

The cultivation of Phalaenopsis cut flowers is divided into two stages:

1. Growth stage: from small seedlings to mature plants.

2. Flowering stage: flower forcing and cut flower sales.

(1) Growth stage

At the beginning of cultivation, smaller varieties or smaller graded small seedlings should be cultivated on another bench. Large varieties and larger grades can be placed in a square arrangement, but before the leaf span begins to touch, they must be spaced out to avoid growing slender and elongated leaves. In Europe, the bench area required for the growth stage is about 10% of the total cultivation area.

(2) Flowering stage

Economic cost calculation, with a 5-year flowering period

After the plant has developed 4-5 leaves, replant it in a 15-17 cm pot, and the pot spacing can now be fixed. Varieties with a larger leaf span need greater spacing. When the orchid plant has grown to a sufficient size and the root system has developed soundly, this orchid plant can serve as a flowering plant.

There are on average about 20 plants per square meter, and from flowering planting to commercial production totals 5 years. If the seedlings are too small or the root system is poorly developed, the flower stalk will be smaller and the flowers smaller, the pot display time will not be long, and the time until the next stalk emergence will be longer.

Phalaenopsis should be cultivated in transparent pots. Transparent pots can ensure more vigorous growth and better root quality. The pots are placed on benches, and ventilation should be good. The width of movable benches should be less than 1.6 meters, and the height should be appropriate, so cut flower work is easy to carry out.

Medium: the criteria for selecting the medium are as follows: large particles are used for drainage, and fine particles (not dust particles) are used to retain and distribute water and nutrients. If the medium contains too much fine dust, it easily forms a hard-layer structure at the bottom of the pot. The medium used in the Netherlands is bark 12-16 mm long and sphagnum moss at 2-3 kg/. For large containers such as 14-24 cm pots, it is suitable to use coarser bark (14-24 mm), but it must be mixed with clay particles or lava medium. In a 17 cm pot, adding appropriate sphagnum moss (2-3 kg/m) can make moisture distribute evenly within the medium. This is especially important in the first year of cultivation. Within one year the sphagnum moss will decay, but the root system can already distribute effectively within the pot.

Besides the medium, the drainage performance of the pot is equally important. After irrigation, water must not remain at the bottom of the pot for too long. Transparent pots can keep the roots inside the pot, and the root system will turn green. If the root system only grows downward without coiling, the root fixation is incorrect. After irrigation operations, water and nutrient absorption requires a longer time, and the quality of future flower stalks becomes worse. Using transparent pots allows checking whether the root system remains vigorous and evenly distributed.

In the first month after transplanting, the medium must be kept moist. The top must not be too dry. If the moisture change in the medium in the first week is too drastic, it will be very difficult to remedy in the later cultivation period. But if the medium is too wet, problems will also arise.

Irrigation system Available irrigation methods include: 1. using drip irrigation lines, 2. using fixed nozzles to irrigate from top to bottom, 3. manual irrigation, 4. combinations of the above methods.

Phalaenopsis leaves easily absorb fertilizer such as urea from the leaf surface during foliar fertilization. A porous medium is very important for the roots; despite the negative capillary effect, its advantages are greater. In the early growth stage, irrigation with sprinkling or irrigation booms is very useful for the crop. In the flowering stage, in order to avoid gray mold on the petals caused by watering, drip irrigation lines are better. When the flower stalk already has many flowers, watering from above easily causes the flower stalk to break.

Irrigation water must not contain chemical components or visible microorganisms. The sodium and chloride ions contained in the water must not exceed 100 mg/l, and bicarbonate must not be excessive. If there is no good water source, reverse osmosis treated water must be used. The amount of watering is related to climate, medium, and plant age. In the Western European environment, the irrigation amount is approximately as follows: once every 7-10 days in winter, once every 5-7 days in summer. During the growth period, the water temperature needs to be 18-20°C to avoid root damage.

During the growth period and the first month after moving to large pots, water must be applied from above. Besides reliably maintaining sufficient moisture in the medium, this can also avoid salinization on the top layer of the medium. After the root system has developed soundly, a drip irrigation system can be used instead. At least once a year, water must be supplied from above to flush the medium.

Fertilizer: Phalaenopsis can be fertilized with compound fertilizer or directly with nitrogen fertilizer (Ammonium nitrate fertilizers). Fertilizer application varies by variety. If a base fertilizer is used, the base fertilizer must contain Dolokal (L3-4 kg /) and PG mixture, with a pH range of 5.2-6.2 and an EC range of 0.8-1.2 mS / cm. If nitrogen fertilizer is too high, it will cause excessive leaf growth. If the EC value is too high, the roots will die. If it is too low, the plant lacks trace elements. The best way to measure EC is to collect the water discharged from the bottom after irrigation. Exceeding 1.5 mS / cm means the medium in the pot has become salinized. Usually red-brown spots form on the roots, and at this time they need to be flushed with clean water or water of low EC.

Phalaenopsis should be fertilized throughout the year, and unless low temperature lasts for a long time, fertilization should not be stopped. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilizer can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growth period, and a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7 to 10 days; organic fertilizer is suitable, and special Phalaenopsis nutrient solution can also be applied, but do not apply it when there are flower buds, otherwise the buds are prone to drop early. In summer when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing. In autumn and winter during the flower stem growth period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it should be dilute, applied about once every 2 to 3 weeks. Fertilization time is after watering in the afternoon. After fertilizing several times, use a large amount of water to flush the orchid pot and orchid plant, so as to avoid residual inorganic salts harming the roots.

In the flowering stage, when the plant has 5 mature leaves, flower forcing can be carried out. When the plant is sufficiently mature and has gone through a transition period, it naturally emerges the flower stalk. Natural flower forcing in autumn allows sale in February or March of the following year. Flowering time can be controlled by regulating temperature and light amount. When all the buds on the flower stalk except the last one have opened, it can be cut for sale. When the flower stalk is cut, it usually already has three flower buds. The second flower stalk emerges from the remaining flower buds, and begins from the terminal bud. However, forcing this new flower stalk requires a longer time, so whether to adopt this method of first natural flowering and then emerging a second flower stalk is decided by the required flower stalk quality and sales plan. Besides the first flower stalk, as long as the plant is healthy, a second time can produce double flower stalks, which can be sold as cut flowers. Therefore, on average 2.5 flower stalks can be sold each year. After the flower stalk emerges, use hanging strings to keep it straight to avoid bending.

Immature flower stalks: during the growth period, flower stalks that emerge before maturity need to be removed promptly. Before the flower stalk hardens, it can be removed manually. If the flower stalk has already hardened, it must be cut off with tools. Before removal or cutting operations, both hands and tools must be disinfected to avoid transmitting disease. Maintaining a temperature of 27°C during the growth period can avoid this premature flowering phenomenon.

Cultivation environment

(1) Temperature

Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and the cultivation temperature should be maintained between 15-34°C. The appropriate temperatures are as follows: 26-27°C for the growth stage and 19-21°C for the flowering stage. In order to obtain more flower stalks, the temperature can be maintained at 18-20°C for a total of 4-8 weeks. When light is insufficient or daytime temperature is too high, maintain 18°C to strengthen flower forcing (inducing flower buds). Because leaf growth must also be maintained during the flowering period, the low-temperature period should not be too long. When light is insufficient, if the temperature is greater than 23°C for more than 24 hours, it will cause excessive vegetative growth and loss of flower buds.

(2) Light amount

1. In the Netherlands region

To obtain proper leaf and root development, sufficient light needs to be provided. Too much light causes burn marks on the leaves. Too low a light amount (below 100 W/m2) causes stagnation of plant growth, poor quality, improper flower bud development, and poor root development. The appropriate light amount is 2002; in summer with strong sunlight (1400 W/m2), use an 80-85% shade net.

2. In tropical regions

It needs to have the ability to maintain 80-90% shade. Usually, a fixed net providing 65% shade is used together with another set of movable netting providing 65% shade. In areas with heavy rainstorms, plastic sheeting roofs should be used to reduce disease and to reduce the leaching of the growing medium by rainwater. (Note: This section refers to simple rain-shelter structures in places such as Indonesia, and does not discuss subtropical greenhouses.)

The appropriate light levels are as follows:

1. Growth stage: 5000-8000 lux

2. Flowering stage: 8000-15000 lux

In regions with year-round sunlight, the light requirement can be increased by 20%. However, attention must be paid to the refraction of light so that all leaves of the orchid plant receive even light. At high light levels, a higher relative humidity must be maintained.

(3) Supplemental lighting

Supplemental lighting benefits leaf temperature, the microclimate, and the growth of orchid seedlings, and can reduce plant losses. Its features are as follows:

1. Plug seedling growth: promotes rapid growth and reduces orchid plant losses

2. Growth stage: promotes rapid growth and better development

3. Flowering stage: helps the development of flower stalks and flower buds, reduces flower bud losses, and improves quality.

In winter, Phalaenopsis requires at least 12-14 hours of light at 3500-4000 lux, so artificial light sources are suitable. Using excessive light on sunny days will cause the leaves to turn red, thereby causing growth to stagnate. In addition, the orchid plant must have a dark period of at least 8 hours to ensure that it can absorb carbon dioxide.

(4) Carbon dioxide concentration

Phalaenopsis is a CAM plant and absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600-800 ppm.

(5) Relative humidity

Thanks to its physiological structure, Phalaenopsis can protect itself from the stress effects of low humidity, but in an environment that is too wet, high temperature and high humidity often go hand in hand with disease. The most suitable relative humidity range is 60-80% RH. In a high-temperature, low-humidity environment, the relative humidity needs to be increased. Suitable equipment systems include high-pressure misting equipment above the greenhouse to increase mist droplets, sprinkling water beneath the benches, and using water walls and fans, etc. However, the crop must be kept from becoming wet. Another additional benefit of humidification is lowering the temperature.

(6) Other information

When the crop is grown in a high relative humidity environment, both the daytime temperature and the amount of sunlight can be increased, keeping the greenhouse interior at a constant temperature, and good air circulation must be maintained. Therefore, the greenhouse height should preferably be 3-4 m higher than the plants.

In order to be able to analyze the problems faced by plant growth, the measurement and recording of the microclimate are very important. For example, light levels, temperature and relative humidity all need to be measured and recorded. Measurement work can use a microcomputer or handheld sensors, and the daily maximum/minimum values all need to be measured.

Pest and disease management

Proper sanitation and weekly removal of infected plants can prevent the spread of most diseases. Bacterial infection is mainly caused by water droplets splashing onto the plant body, or by being affected during transport. This kind of disease cannot be controlled with chemicals. The various diseases and their modes of transmission are as follows:

1. Bacterial diseases

Bacterial brown spot is the most serious disease of Phalaenopsis. The symptom is the appearance of brown spots on the leaves. They are oily or heart-shaped, and are surrounded by a yellow-shaped substance. Treatment methods include adjusting the nitrogen level of the fertilizer solution, removing diseased plants, and maintaining a stable relative humidity. Chemicals have no effect on this disease. Only by using plants that are in good growing condition and healthy can this bacterial problem be avoided.

2. Mold

Too much fluctuation in the moisture in the medium or an unsuitable EC value can cause root damage, thereby prompting mold to attack the tissue. The way to deal with it is to lower the EC value of the irrigation water and temporarily reduce the moisture content of the medium.

3. Botrytis

Another disease caused by mold is gray mold on the petals, which forms many small spots on the flowers. The cause is that the plant remains wet for too long or the relative humidity is too high.

4. Fusarium

Fusarium causes black triangular spots and forms yellow and dark red areas on the basal leaves. The leaves will drop rapidly. This disease is prone to occur when the roots are sitting in standing water.

Common cases

1. Leaf spot disease: It mainly occurs on the leaves. In the early stage of the disease, small spots appear on the leaves, which later develop into nearly circular lesions. The edges of the lesions have water-soaked yellow halos with clear boundaries. Control methods: strengthen ventilation, reduce air humidity, and cut off diseased leaves. During the disease period, spray with a 800-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, once every 10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays. 2. Gray mold: It occurs in spring under low temperature and high humidity, generally appearing as small brown spots on the petals of white flowers, and in severe cases causing soft rot. Control methods: strengthen ventilation, reduce humidity, and immediately cut off affected flowers. In the early stage of the disease, spray with a 1000-fold dilution of 75% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder, once every 10 days, for 2 consecutive sprays. 3. Brown spot disease: It occurs in summer and autumn under high temperature and humid weather, mainly on the leaves. In the early stage of the disease, small circular spots appear on the leaves, which gradually expand into large lesions. The lesions are dark brown, and in severe cases the leaves turn black and wither. Control methods: pay attention to ventilation and light transmission. In the early stage of the disease, spray with an 80-fold dilution of 10% polyoxin once every half month. 4. Scale insects: The most common insect pest of Phalaenopsis, mostly occurring in autumn and winter when indoor ventilation is poor, and dry conditions lead to scale insect damage. Control methods: pay attention to ventilation, and the orchid plants should not be placed too densely. When only a few are found, the scale insects can be wiped off with a soft cloth, and repeating this several times can eradicate the pest.

(2) Viruses

The symptoms of virus-infected Phalaenopsis are smaller flowers and slower growth. However, the growth traits of some varieties are not affected by virus infection. The symptoms of the virus are more obvious during the low-temperature flower-forcing stage. The greatest impact of the virus on Phalaenopsis lies in the growth rate.

(3) Insects and small animals

1. Slugs and snails

Slugs and snails bite small holes in young plants, and can also damage many plants within just a few days. They also bite and damage the root tips. The use of chemicals can effectively control these small animals.

2. Mites

Red spider mites cause slight deformation and severe color changes on the leaves. Because their distribution is concentrated, they can be controlled with insecticides.

3. Thrips: Brown thrips can usually be found on every part, and they appear in groups. Chemicals are difficult to use for eradication. Removing diseased plants is the best solution.

4. Sciaridae, fungus gnats: This kind of insect attacks the root tips. Applying predatory natural enemies (Hypoaspis predatory mite, 100-150/ 2) and hanging yellow sticky insect traps can prevent infection.

(4) Physiological abnormalities caused by the environment

1. Bud drop

At the final flowering stage, if the light is too strong or the temperature is too high, it is easy to cause the buds to drop from the flower stalk. Poor root quality can also cause this phenomenon. If the flowers do not go through an acclimation stage before transport, bud drop can also occur.

2. Chilling injury during transport:

When plants are transported from the growing area to the sales area, orange-red spots may appear on the leaf surface, usually caused by cell death due to chilling injury. Other environmental stresses or excessive light can also cause them.

(5) Phytotoxicity: due to the use of unsuitable chemicals. Harvesting and packaging The flower stalk must be fixed with a support or tie. It can be harvested when there is still one unopened bud. The flower stalk is inserted into a freshness-preserving tube containing 16 cc. The freshness-preserving solution can use Chrysal or hot water at 40-45 degrees C. The bouquet is placed in a packing box and stored at 7-10 degrees C. If the flowers are slightly wilted, the stalk can be cut again and placed in hot water at about 40 degrees C. Vase life ranges from 5 days to 6 weeks, depending on the variety and the surrounding environment. The size of the cut flower packing box is 100 x 15 x 11.5 cm. Usually a box contains 25-30 flowers. The selling price varies depending on the variety and the producing orchid nursery.

1. Harvesting stage

The harvesting of Phalaenopsis generally includes two stages:

(1) From the bud stage to full opening;

(2) From full opening to maturity and senescence.

2. Purpose of harvesting

(1) The first is to promote the opening of Phalaenopsis flower buds, so that Phalaenopsis can fully display its ornamental characteristics;

(2) The second is to reduce metabolism, delay the flowering and senescence process, and prolong the life of Phalaenopsis.

3. Harvesting method

Phalaenopsis is harvested when the flowers are fully open or 3 to 4 days after the flower buds open. For those close to the market, the harvesting time can be slightly later, and for those far from the market, the harvesting time should be slightly earlier. In addition, attention must also be paid to the harvesting time within the day. Harvesting in the morning can maintain high turgor pressure in the flower cells of Phalaenopsis, that is, the water content of Phalaenopsis at this time is the highest, which helps reduce the occurrence of postharvest wilting of Phalaenopsis, but morning harvesting, because there is a lot of dew, is also more humid and more susceptible to infection by fungal and other diseases. Economic assessment With a production area of 1000 sq m, the economic assessment is as follows:

a. Cultivation area: 1000 sq m

b. Actual planting area: 870 sq m

c. Area used for cultivation: 87 sq m

d. Area used for flowering plants: 783 sq m

e. 20 plants per sq m, for a total of 15,666 plants.

f. Product: 2.5 flower stalks per year, yielding 39,150 flower stalks per year. Each flower stalk has 8-10 flowers, for an annual output of 313,200 flowers.

g. 2003 average price: 0.51 euros per flower

h. Output value of 1000 sq m is 159,732 euros

i. Output value per sq m is 160 euros

Meaning of the famous orchid

Phalaenopsis flower language: I love you, happiness is flying toward you

Zodiac signs corresponding to Phalaenopsis: Aquarius & Sagittarius, representing loyalty, wisdom, rationality, and virtue.

Phalaenopsis of various flower colors also have different meanings:

White Phalaenopsis: pure love, precious friendship

Red-hearted Phalaenopsis: good fortune has arrived, eternal union

Red Phalaenopsis: smooth career, happy and complete

Striped Phalaenopsis: everything goes well, wishes come true

Yellow Phalaenopsis: a flourishing career, prosperous business

Mini Phalaenopsis: happy angel, in the prime of life

Phalaenopsis -- first love, happiness approaching gradually, pure and beautiful

Phalaenopsis summering technology

1. Measures: The main issue in summering Phalaenopsis is cooling, and the following measures should be taken:

(1) Add a double layer of shade netting to reduce light and achieve a good cooling effect (lowering by 2 degrees C to 4 degrees C).

(2) Sprinkle or flood the ground. In summer the temperature is very high, but the water temperature just drawn from a well is very low, around 16 degrees C. Therefore, sprinkling or flooding can have an obvious cooling effect.

(3) Spraying water on the leaves cools most quickly, but lasts the shortest time.

(4) Ventilation. Make a 40 cm x 40 cm square hole in the wall every 5 m at a height of 70 cm from the ground to increase ventilation and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases; turn on fans above 25 degrees C to strengthen air circulation, which is beneficial to plant growth.

2. Undesirable phenomena that easily occur during summering

(1) Leaf aging and shedding. Some plants show decline in the lower leaves during the summering process, and from late summer to autumn they gradually turn yellow and shed.

(2) Severe pests and diseases, especially when the weather is hot, the relative humidity of the air is too high and there is no wind, and the temperature is high, which easily leads to the occurrence of diseases such as soft rot, brown spot, and viruses.

Key Technical Points for Mother Plant Cultivation Management and Pest and Disease Control of Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis Phalaenopsis amabilis Phalaenopsis Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Phalaenopsis / How to Propagate Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis pictures and introduction

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