Hydrangeas Bloom in September: 6 Beautiful and Easy-to-Grow Varieties Recommended

  September is the season when the beautiful hydrangea blooms in the autumn breeze; the sight of those lush, brightly colored flowers is truly intoxicating. Speaking of hydrangeas, many flower lovers surely want to grow them. Below, the editor summarizes and recommends some hydrangea varieties -- see which one you like best?

  1. Endless Summer

  When you think of a hydrangea that blooms, the first one that comes to mind is Endless Summer. If your courtyard or balcony is big enough, you must grow Endless Summer. Endless Summer is a variety of hydrangea, and its flower heads can grow to at least 18 cm in diameter. Moreover, Endless Summer has an extremely long blooming period; as long as the climate is suitable, it can bloom from late spring all the way to golden autumn.

  Why we recommend it: Endless Summer has vivid colors, an extremely long blooming period, a large flower yield and rapid growth -- well worth planting.

  2. Magical Crystal

  Magical Crystal is also a variety of hydrangea. Its appearance is somewhat similar to Endless Summer, but its blooming period is slightly shorter. Magical Crystal's flower heads are also very large, and its branches are sturdy, so the flower heads do not droop. It is worth mentioning that Magical Crystal's flower color is almost solid; once the buds are fully open, the color in the center of the hydrangea is unique and super beautiful.

  Why we recommend it: Magical Crystal has a relatively large plant form and graceful flowers. However, Magical Crystal's blooming period runs from late spring to summer.

  3. Kiss of the Fairy

  Kiss of the Fairy is also impossibly beautiful. The first time I heard this name, I thought this hydrangea must be very sexy and enchanting, and after seeing it in person, that is indeed the case. Unlike Magical Crystal's uniform color, Kiss of the Fairy's petals carry slightly varied colors, making it both fresh and alluring.

  Why we recommend it: Kiss of the Fairy grows vigorously, and its flower color varies greatly, bringing a different sense of surprise each time.

  4. Kaleidoscope

  Kaleidoscope is a hydrangea variety I came across online. Although I have never grown it, I was still amazed when I saw the beautiful photos of the hydrangea. Kaleidoscope's buds grow slowly, but when the flowers open, they are so beautiful you cannot look away. Kaleidoscope's buds are small, delicate and clustered; under the influence of soil acidity and alkalinity, Kaleidoscope's flower color also changes accordingly.

  5. Izumi Tori

  Izumi Tori is a favorite variety among devoted lovers of the fresh, delicate look. Its light, slender petals slowly extend from among the green leaves, just like a little sprite peeking out upon first coming into the world. When Izumi Tori first blooms, the flower color carries a slight pale yellow tint, and later the color gradually deepens.

  Why we recommend it: First-class beauty.

  6. Kasumi

  Kasumi is a very popular variety; it brings together almost all the strengths of hydrangeas, such as heat tolerance, rapid growth and double petals, and so on. More importantly, as long as it is cared for properly with reasonable water and fertilizer, Kasumi can bloom twice a year -- once in spring and once in autumn. Moreover, Kasumi's color is changeable, and its magnificent form is worth planting.

  Why we recommend it: Many advantages and excellent coloration.

  In fact, there are an extremely large number of hydrangea varieties. Besides the ones above, the dreamy and romantic Xi Xi Feng, the first-rate heat-tolerant Tian Shui Yi Se, and the brilliantly gradient Magic Princess are all very beautiful hydrangea varieties. If you are very interested in hydrangeas, you can pay more attention to them; their growing method is not very difficult, and if you have a courtyard at home, growing them will give you a little garden.

How to Grow Hydrangeas: Hydrangea Growing Methods

The correct name of the hydrangea is qiu lan, also known as ba xian hua, zi yang hua, qi bian hua, yang xiu qiu and fen tuan hua. It originated in the area of Sichuan, China, and Japan. It is a deciduous shrub of the order Cornales, family Hydrangeaceae, genus Hydrangea; its flowers are almost entirely sterile flowers, and the so-called "flowers" are merely sepals. China cultivated ba xian hua relatively early; hydrangeas were planted in the Jiangnan gardens built during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Parks built in the early 20th century also could not do without hydrangea plantings. Modern parks and scenic areas all plant them in masses to form landscapes. Artificially bred hydrangeas have large flowers and vivid colors, with flower colors including blue, white, purple-red, pink, peach-red and so on; it is a common ornamental flowering shrub.

The Growth Habits of Hydrangeas

We must first understand the growth habits of hydrangeas in order to master hydrangea growing methods in a targeted way. Hydrangeas originated in China's Yangtze River basin and by nature prefer warm, humid and semi-shaded environments. They fear both drought and waterlogging, and are not cold-tolerant; in cold regions the above-ground parts die back in winter and do not sprout new shoots again until the following spring. Hydrangeas like fertile, moist, well-drained light loam and are fairly adaptable. The acidity and alkalinity of the soil have a relatively large influence on hydrangea flower color: in acidic soil the flowers are mostly blue, while in alkaline soil they are mostly red.

Hydrangea Propagation Methods

Cuttings, division, layering and grafting are commonly used for propagation, with cuttings being the main method. During the plum rain period, select healthy young shoots from a young mother plant as cuttings; the base of the cutting must have a node and be dipped in mud slurry, about 20 cm long, with the lower leaves removed. The suitable temperature for cuttings is 13-18°C. After planting, shade is needed and moisture must be kept constant; roots develop in about 15 days to 1 month, and after surviving, they can be transplanted in the second year. Division propagation is best done in early spring before budding. Separate the rooted branches from the mother plant and pot them directly; do not water too much, keep them in semi-shade, and after new buds sprout, switch to normal care. Layering propagation can be done when the buds begin to swell; growth occurs after 30 days, and the following spring it can be cut from the mother plant, transplanted with soil, and it can bloom that same year. Generally, air layering is done in spring from March to April, roots form in June to July, and it can be cut off and planted separately that same year. For grafting propagation, use seedlings of Viburnum macrocephalum as rootstock and do cleft grafting in spring, which easily succeeds. Transplanting is best done after leaf fall or before budding, and the soil around the roots must be kept. The main branches easily send out vigorous water sprouts, so after flowering they need appropriate pruning to shape the tree form.

Cultivation and Management of Hydrangeas

The suitable growing temperature for hydrangeas is 18-28°C, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. Flower bud differentiation requires 6-8 weeks at 5-7°C; a temperature of 20°C can promote flowering, and maintaining 16°C after flowers appear can extend the viewing period. However, high temperatures make the flowers fade quickly. Hydrangeas are short-day plants; with more than 10 hours of darkness treatment per day, flower buds form in about 45-50 days. Potted hydrangeas commonly use 15-20 cm pots. After potted plants sprout in spring, pay attention to watering adequately to ensure the leaves do not wilt. During the blooming period from June to July, fertilizer and water must be sufficient, fertilizing once every half month. In ordinary cultivation, avoid direct sunlight; 60%-70% shading is ideal. When the light is too strong in midsummer, appropriate shading can extend the viewing period. After flowering, remove the flower stems to encourage new branches.

A loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam soil is best. However, flower color is affected by soil acidity and alkalinity: in acidic soil the flowers are blue, and in alkaline soil they are red. The potting soil should be kept moist, but do not water too much; especially in the rainy season, pay attention to drainage to prevent root rot caused by waterlogging. In winter, potted plants indoors are better kept slightly dry. If too moist, the leaves rot easily. Repot once every spring. Prune appropriately to keep the plant shape graceful.

Potting and Pruning of Hydrangeas

Hydrangea propagation is suitable in spring and autumn, but late spring and early summer (late April to July) is best. At this time, the hydrangea blooming period has basically ended in May; after removing spent flowers and withered leaves and pruning, new branches and leaf buds have grown, and at this point the top branch buds can be cut as cuttings. Cuttings can also be done from late September to October; in early spring, after hydrangeas have been pruned and top buds taken as cuttings, many new branch and leaf buds sprout again, and since the weather turns cooler at this time, it is suitable for cutting propagation.

1. Besides a seedbed made of bricks, for easy moving and management, a foam box can be used as a seedbed. First cut several openings in the bottom of the box, then cover the openings with tile pieces, fill in a layer of coarse sand, and then add culture soil (3 parts sand, 2 parts sterile mountain soil, mixed evenly); level it and it is ready for cuttings. Cut the cuttings into 10-15 cm sections, remove the lower leaves of the terminal branches, keeping only 2-3 leaves at the top. After cutting, bundle the cuttings and smooth them out. To help the cutting wounds heal and take root sooner, soak the smoothed cuttings in a strong rooting agent (about 0.2 kg of water per packet) for 5-10 minutes, then they are ready for cutting. After planting, press the soil around the stems firmly with your fingers so the cuttings and soil are tightly combined. Then water thoroughly once with a watering can; afterward, as long as the bed soil is moist, there is no need to water, but you must frequently mist the cutting leaves and keep the environment around the seedbed moist. If the weather is hot and the sunlight strong, a shade shed must be built for shading. With such careful management, in about 25 days the wounds begin to heal and new roots grow from the nodes.

2. Potting, cultivation and care: After about 25 days of careful management, the hydrangeas have survived and new leaf buds begin to grow upward from the top buds; at this point they must be planted separately in pots for management. The culture soil for growing hydrangeas uses needle-leaf soil (with relatively high acidity) plus bran, and a compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (according to the proportion of needle-leaf soil) mixed evenly with the soil, piled up and fully fermented for more than half a year; before use, turn it over and air-dry it for several days and it is ready. After the seedlings survive and the top branch grows to about 10 cm, the first pinching can be done to encourage new leaf buds to sprout from the lower part; when the several branch buds that later grow reach a certain length, do a second pinching, and let them grow evenly and lushly. When the main trunk and branches are thick and strong, leave only 3-4 branches and let them grow freely. From surviving in the pot until the branches are fixed, fertilize 3-4 times, mainly with monopotassium phosphate.

Pest and Disease Control of Hydrangeas

1. The main diseases and pests of hydrangeas are wilt disease, powdery mildew and leaf spot disease; spray 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution for control.

2. Pests include aphids and mirid bugs; spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution to kill them.

Precautions for Growing Hydrangeas

1. Hydrangeas are toxic, and accidentally eating the stems and leaves of hydrangeas can cause symptoms such as colic, abdominal pain, diarrhea, vomiting, rapid breathing and blood in the stool. In people's imagination, hydrangeas seem as edible as cotton candy and round bread, but in fact, once hydrangea is eaten, abdominal pain appears within a few hours; other typical poisoning symptoms also include skin pain, vomiting, weakness and sweating, and some reports say patients may even experience coma, convulsions and collapse of blood circulation in the body. Fortunately, an antidote for hydrangea poisoning has now been developed. In addition, note that hydrangeas easily cause allergies, so it is generally not recommended to place them in the bedroom. Flower lovers are advised to choose flowers according to the individual when planting, selecting flowers they like that are harmless; also, do not grow too many flowers indoors, and be sure to keep the air circulating.

2. When growing hydrangeas, pay attention to proper watering. After the Start of Spring, be sure to let hydrangeas receive dew and sunlight, and water in the morning and evening.

The above is the hydrangea growing method introduced to you by the editor. Do you grow hydrangeas at home? I hope it is helpful to you!

Are Hydrangeas Toxic? Hydrangea Growing Methods

Many people like hydrangeas very much; their rich colors are pleasing to the eye and they have high ornamental value. Are hydrangeas toxic? Below we will tell you about hydrangea growing methods.

Are hydrangeas toxic?

Hydrangea, also known as ba xian hua, zi yang hua, qi bian hua, yang xiu qiu and fen tuan hua, originated in the area of Sichuan, China, and Japan. It is a deciduous shrub of the family Saxifragaceae, genus Hydrangea (scientific name: Hydrangea); its flowers are almost entirely sterile flowers, and the so-called "flowers" are merely sepals.

China cultivated ba xian hua relatively early; hydrangeas were planted in the Jiangnan gardens built during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Parks built in the early 20th century also could not do without hydrangea plantings. Modern parks and scenic areas all plant them in masses to form landscapes. Artificially bred hydrangeas have large flowers and vivid colors, with flower colors including blue, white, purple-red, pink, peach-red and so on; it is a common ornamental flowering shrub.

Hydrangea is a common courtyard flower; its umbel-like inflorescences are like snowballs, clustered among the oval green leaves, very beautiful. The whole hydrangea plant is toxic, and it has no particular smell itself; accidental ingestion will cause poisoning symptoms such as colic, abdominal pain, diarrhea, rapid breathing, vomiting and blood in the stool. So it is best not to put it indoors, and even more so, do not covet the beauty of hydrangeas and want to pick them to play with. Especially in families with small children, it is best to plant hydrangeas outdoors; if they are potted hydrangeas, it is suitable to place them on a ventilated balcony or terrace to keep children from touching them.

Hydrangeas very easily cause allergies or itchy skin conditions in people, so it is best not to place them in the bedroom. Placing hydrangeas reasonably allows you both to appreciate the beauty of hydrangeas and to ensure safety.

Hydrangea Growing Methods:

(1) Temperature and light should be moderate: add warmth in winter and cool down and shade in summer. To grow hydrangeas well, you must pay attention to the temperature and light of the surrounding environment. Hydrangeas can grow normally only between 15°C and 27°C, so in winter try to move them indoors to a bright, sunny place to grow, and the lowest indoor temperature must not be below 5°C, otherwise the hydrangeas will freeze to death or stop growing. In summer, focus on cooling and shading to prevent the leaves from being scorched; overly strong sunlight will only cause the leaves to discolor or even drop.

(2) Watering and fertilizing should be moderate: water and fertilize more during bud formation, water less and do not fertilize during the dormant period. When watering hydrangeas normally, you only need to keep the soil surface moist; in summer you can use misting to lower the temperature around the leaves, and in winter water as little as possible, keeping it half moist and half dry. During bud formation, water more, at least 2 times a day, and fertilizing work must also be done well; during bud formation, apply a light fertilizer to hydrangeas once every ten days. You can add a little ferrous sulfate to the light fertilizer to make alum fertilizer water, or spray some liquid fertilizer on the leaves once every half month; doing so can encourage the buds to bloom. During the dormant period, do not fertilize anymore; let the hydrangeas get full rest.

(3) Be ruthless with weeding and pruning: weed thoroughly, and when pruning, pinch out the growing tips and remove diseased and dead branches. The growing environment of hydrangeas must be kept clean at all times; weeds that compete for nutrients must be removed promptly as soon as they poke out, and you must absolutely not show mercy or let any slip through the net. Generally speaking, to make the plant shape more beautiful, when there are too many new leaves it is necessary to pinch out the growing tips, and also pay attention to pruning some leggy branches and overly dense branches. In addition, after flowering, diseased branches and withered leaves are also our main pruning targets; these miscellaneous branches must be removed promptly to avoid competing with the main trunk for nutrients.

The Growing Environment of Hydrangeas;

The suitable growing temperature for hydrangeas is 18-28°C, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. Flower bud differentiation requires 6-8 weeks at 5-7°C; a temperature of 20°C can promote flowering, and maintaining 16°C after flowers appear can extend the viewing period. However, high temperatures make the flowers fade quickly.

The potting soil should be kept moist, but do not water too much; especially in the rainy season, pay attention to drainage to prevent root rot caused by waterlogging. In winter, potted plants indoors are better kept slightly dry. If too dry or too moist, the leaves rot easily.

Hydrangeas are short-day plants; with more than 10 hours of darkness treatment per day, flower buds form in about 45-50 days. In ordinary cultivation, avoid direct sunlight; 60%-70% shading is ideal.

A loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam soil is best. However, changes in soil pH make hydrangea flower color vary considerably. To deepen the blue, apply aluminum sulfate during bud formation. To maintain pink, apply lime to the soil.