How to Grow Snake Plants? A Roundup of Common Varieties and a Care Guide

  The snake plant, as one of the most popular potted foliage plants today, not only has extremely high ornamental value but also benefits human health. Many plant lovers, like this editor, thought on first encountering the snake plant that it was just a single flowering variety; only after learning more did they discover that there are many kinds of snake plants, each with its own character, and the more you learn, the more it feels like discovering a treasure trove! To let everyone see the features of the snake plant family at a glance, this editor has put together the most common and most beloved snake plant members on the market.

  Golden-Edged Snake Plant

  The golden-edged snake plant is the most widely known variety in the snake plant family. When first getting into snake plants, 95% of plant lovers have absolutely taken one home and grown it. The golden-edged snake plant has golden margins on its leaves, and the upright, upward-reaching leaves create a sense of vitality and energy. With proper care, the leaves can grow to about 80 cm, making it suitable as a medium-sized potted plant to decorate a corner of the living room or bedroom.

  Golden-Edged Short-Leaf Snake Plant

  Compared with the two plants above, the golden-edged short-leaf snake plant is much more compact. It has a small stature, and its radiating leaves look like a blooming lotus, which is why it is also called the lotus snake plant. Although small, the golden-edged short-leaf snake plant is very refined; short leaves no more than 20 cm paired with golden-edged margins complement each other nicely. Placing one pot on a countertop or side table instantly dispels the bare, lonely feel of a small space.

  Silver-Striped Snake Plant

  The snake plant family seems to share one characteristic: the leaves all stand upright. As an important member of the snake plant family, the silver-striped snake plant is no exception. Besides its upright leaves, the silver-striped snake plant has stripes of alternating silvery-white and green on the leaf surface, looking exceptionally stylish. Nowadays, the Japanese minimalist style and simple industrial style are increasingly popular, and the graceful silver-striped snake plant with its unique leaves is perfectly suited to home decor in these styles.

  Compared with the common, rugged varieties, the snake plant family also has some gentler varieties, such as the white jade snake plant and the diamond snake plant. Their leaves are emerald green and plain, and very beautiful.

  White Jade Snake Plant

  The white jade snake plant is a very fresh, delicate variety; its white-green leaves overturn the usual dark green. Because the markings on the white jade snake plant are very faint, the delicate green edging stands out especially. It is worth mentioning that the white jade snake plant can bloom, but only once every 6 years. The white jade snake plant may look cute and delicate, but it is extremely resilient and needs very little water; keep it in a ventilated, bright spot and water once every half month for normal growth.

  Finger Snake Plant

  The finger snake plant is shaped like fingers, adorably cute. Its leaves grow in opposite pairs, and the dark green leaf surface is dotted with horizontal gray-green tiger-stripe markings, combining sturdiness with soft beauty. The finger snake plant is extremely adaptable to its environment and can be enjoyed for a long time. Since the plant is not very demanding about light, it does perfectly well indoors too.

  Stick-Leaf Snake Plant

  The stick-leaf snake plant has a peculiar leaf shape and is a solid internet-famous plant. Unlike most snake plant members, the stick-leaf snake plant has cylindrical fleshy leaves that grow upright in the pot, like a little man standing tall between heaven and earth. The deep green fleshy leaves are dotted with gray-green markings and longitudinal grooves, unique and full of formal beauty. Recently, many floral artists have been making creative use of the stick-leaf snake plant; the fleshy leaves can be shaped in endlessly changing ways, making a room more interesting.

  The above are the most common and most beloved snake plant varieties on the market, as compiled by this editor. In fact, the snake plant family has many more varieties; several kinds of leaves that look similar yet each have their own character are a delight to the eye. Growing snake plants is not difficult, so friends who like them can try growing them according to the care methods above.

How to Grow Snake Plants: The Most Detailed Snake Plant Growing and Care Methods

The snake plant, also known as tiger tail orchid, is a common perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Sansevieria in the Liliaceae family. It is suitable for decorating studies, living rooms and offices, and can be enjoyed for a long time. Now let's follow the editor of wed114 wedding website to see how to grow snake plants, with the most detailed introduction to snake plant growing methods and care methods.

Introduction to the Snake Plant

The snake plant (scientific name: Sansevieria trifasciata Prain), also known as tiger tail orchid, brocade orchid, thousand-year orchid, tiger tail palm, yellow tail orchid or mother-in-law's tongue, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Sansevieria in the Liliaceae family. It has rhizomes; the leaves are basal, fleshy, linear-lanceolate, hard and leathery, upright, slightly grooved at the base; dark green, with horizontal bands of alternating light green and dark green on both sides; racemose inflorescence, flowers white to pale green; berries about 7-8 mm in diameter. The snake plant's flowering period is November to December.

There are many varieties of snake plants, with considerable variation in plant shape and leaf color, and strong adaptability to the environment. The main varieties include the golden-edged snake plant and the silver-striped snake plant. They are suitable for decorating studies, living rooms and offices, and can be enjoyed for a long time.

I. Morphological Characteristics

Stem: The snake plant has horizontal rhizomes.

Leaves: The leaves of the snake plant are basal, usually 1-2, sometimes 3-6 in clusters, upright, hard and leathery, flat, long lanceolate, 30-70 (-120) cm long, 3-5 (-8) cm wide, with horizontal banded markings of alternating light green and dark green, green margins, tapering downward into grooved stalks of varying lengths.

Flowers: The scape of the snake plant is 30-80 cm tall, with pale brown membranous sheaths at the base; the flowers are pale green or white, in clusters of 3-8, arranged in a raceme; the pedicels are 5-8 mm long, with the joint in the middle; the perianth is 1.6-2.8 cm long, with the tube and lobes about equal in length.

The snake plant's flowering period is November to December.

Fruit: The berries of the snake plant are about 7-8 mm in diameter.

II. Ecological Habits

The snake plant is highly adaptable; it likes warmth and humidity, tolerates drought, and enjoys light while also tolerating shade. It is not demanding about soil, and sandy loam with good drainage is preferable. Its optimal growing temperature is 20-30°C, and its overwintering temperature is 10°C.

The snake plant is afraid of harsh sun exposure and waterlogging; it is highly adaptable, likes warmth and humidity, tolerates drought, and enjoys light while also tolerating shade. It is not demanding about soil, and sandy loam with good drainage is preferable. Its optimal growing temperature is 20-30°C, and its overwintering temperature is 10°C. Snake plants can be propagated by division and by cuttings.

How to Grow the Flowering Snake Plant

I. Cultivation Techniques for Snake Plants

1. Light

Snake plants are generally placed in shady or semi-shady spots, but they also quite like sunlight; only when the light is too strong will the leaf color darken and turn white.

Potted snake plants are not demanding about light; as long as there is relatively sufficient light, that is enough. Snake plants grow well under sufficient light; apart from avoiding direct sun in midsummer, they should receive plenty of sunlight in the other seasons. If placed in too dark an indoor spot for too long, the leaves will darken and lack vitality. However, indoor potted plants must not be suddenly moved into the sun; they should first acclimatize in a darker spot to avoid scorching the leaves. If indoor conditions do not allow it, they can also be placed somewhere fairly close to sunlight.

2. Temperature

Snake plants like warm temperatures. Their suitable temperature is 18-27°C; below 13°C they stop growing. In winter the temperature must not stay below 10°C for long either, otherwise the base of the plant will rot, causing the whole plant to die.

3. Watering

Watering should be moderate, not overly wet. The snake plant is a desert plant and can withstand harsh environments and long droughts. If watered too frequently, the leaves turn white and the markings fade. From spring to autumn it grows vigorously and should be watered well. During the winter dormant period, watering should be controlled to keep the soil dry, and water should be kept from splashing into the leaf clusters. When using plastic pots or other decorative flower pots with poor drainage, be sure to avoid waterlogging, so as not to cause rot that makes the leaves fold over below.

Watering should be moderate, following the principle of preferring dry over wet. Normally, wipe dust off the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and glossy. In spring, when new plants sprout at the root crown, water a little more to keep the potting soil moist; in the hot summer season, also keep the potting soil moist regularly; after late autumn, watering should be controlled and the potting soil kept relatively dry to enhance cold resistance. During the winter dormant period, watering should be controlled to keep the soil dry, and water should be kept from splashing into the leaf clusters. When using plastic pots or other decorative flower pots with poor drainage, be sure to avoid waterlogging, so as not to cause rot that makes the leaves fold over below.

4. Fertilizing

Fertilizing should not be excessive. During the peak growing season, fertilize 1-2 times a month, with a small amount. If only nitrogen fertilizer is applied for a long time, the markings on the leaves will become dull, so a compound fertilizer is generally used. You can also evenly bury 3 holes of cooked soybeans in the soil at the edge of the pot, 7-10 beans per hole, taking care not to let them touch the roots. Stop fertilizing from November to March of the following year.

Snake plants are not demanding about fertilizer; if only nitrogen fertilizer is applied for a long time, the markings on the leaves will become dull, so a compound fertilizer is generally used. Fertilizing should not be excessive. During the peak growing season, fertilize 1-2 times a month, with a small amount. Standard compost can be used when repotting, and during the growing season apply a dilute liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to ensure the leaves are verdant and thick. You can also evenly bury 3 holes of cooked soybeans in the soil at the edge of the pot, 7-10 beans per hole, taking care not to let them touch the roots. Stop fertilizing from November to March of the following year.

5. Soil

Snake plants are not demanding about soil and can grow normally even in a very small volume of soil; they like loose sandy soil and humus soil, and tolerate drought and poor soil. They grow very robustly, and even when the pot is packed full it does not inhibit their growth. Generally, repot once every two years, in spring, and standard compost can be used when repotting.

Snake plants are highly adaptable; for potting, use 3 parts fertile garden soil, 1 part coal cinder, plus a small amount of soybean cake crumbs or poultry manure as base fertilizer. They grow very robustly, and even when the pot is packed full it does not inhibit their growth. Generally, repot once every two years, in spring.

6. Points to Note

Watering should be moderate, not overly wet. The snake plant is a desert plant and can withstand harsh environments and long droughts. If watered too frequently, the leaves turn white and the markings fade. From spring to autumn it grows vigorously and should be watered well. During the winter dormant period, watering should be controlled to keep the soil dry, and water should be kept from splashing into the leaf clusters. When using plastic pots or other decorative flower pots with poor drainage, be sure to avoid waterlogging, so as not to cause rot that makes the leaves fold over below.

Fertilizing should not be excessive. During the peak growing season, fertilize 1-2 times a month, with a small amount. If only nitrogen fertilizer is applied for a long time, the markings on the leaves will become dull, so a compound fertilizer is generally used. You can also evenly bury 3 holes of cooked soybeans in the soil at the edge of the pot, 7-10 beans per hole, taking care not to let them touch the roots.

II. How to Grow Snake Plants

1. Planting Conditions

Planting snake plants is very simple and does not require many conditions. Snake plants are highly adaptable and can be managed fairly extensively; for potting, use 3 parts fertile garden soil, 1 part coal cinder, plus a small amount of soybean cake crumbs or poultry manure as base fertilizer.

2. Fertilizer Needed During the Growing Period

Snake plants need fertilizer relatively more during the growing period and have no particular requirements at other times. Snake plants have no great demand for fertilizer, but if during the growing period they are given a dilute soybean cake fertilizer solution once every 10 to 15 days, they will grow even better.

3. Moderate Light

Snake plants need a moderate amount of light. Potted snake plants should not be kept in dark places for a long time; they should often be given scattered light, otherwise the leaves will darken and lack vitality. But they also must not be suddenly moved into the sun; they should first acclimatize in a darker spot.

4. Special Attention

Special attention for a special snake plant. For potting snake plants, use equal parts leaf mold and garden soil mixed with a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the growing medium. They grow well under sufficient light; apart from avoiding direct sun in midsummer, they should receive plenty of sunlight in the other seasons. If placed in too dark an indoor spot for too long, the leaves will darken and lack vitality. In addition, if kept indoors for a long time, they should not be suddenly moved directly into the sun; first move them to a brighter spot and let them go through an adaptation process before exposing them to sunlight, so as to avoid scorching the leaves.

5. Watering Should Be Moderate

Follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. Normally, wipe dust off the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and glossy. In spring, when new plants sprout at the root crown, water a little more to keep the potting soil moist; in the hot summer season, also keep the potting soil moist regularly; after late autumn, watering should be controlled and the potting soil kept relatively dry to enhance cold resistance. It is not demanding about fertilizer; during the growing season apply a dilute liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to ensure the leaves are verdant and thick.

As can be seen from the above, the snake plant's way of life is indeed a bit like a tiger's: it can survive on its own, but with human attention it will become even more beautiful.

III. Propagation Methods for Snake Plants

Snake plants can be propagated by division and by cuttings; the commonly used methods are division and cutting:

1. Propagation by Division

The division method is to cut overly dense leaf clusters into several clusters, each with leaves plus a section of rhizome and a sucker, and plant them separately in pots. This method is suitable for all varieties of snake plants and can be used to raise seedlings year-round, but spring and summer are best; it can be done in spring together with repotting.

Method: Take the plant out of the pot, use a sharp knife to separate the daughter plants from the mother plant, trying to avoid damaging the root system, and let the separated daughter plants carry as many roots as possible; coat the cut with sulfur powder or plant ash, let it dry slightly, and then pot it up.

After separation, the daughter plants should be placed in a dark indoor spot, protected from rain, and watering should be controlled to prevent the cut from rotting; only after new leaves grow can they be moved to normal care.

When potting, sprinkle some fine sand around the roots of the plant to help it survive. Choose a loose, fertile, well-aerated sandy growing medium for the potting soil. Each pot can hold 2-3 plants.

Experience: First take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old growing medium, expose the rhizome, and then cut it along its direction into several plants (each with at least 2 to 3 leaves), coat the cuts with a wound-healing antiseptic film, and immediately spray the plant with New High Lipid Film to keep it warm and prevent freezing; after letting it dry slightly, it can be potted up. When potting, sprinkle some fine sand around the roots of the plant to help it survive. Choose a loose, fertile, well-aerated sandy growing medium for the potting soil. Each pot can hold 2 to 3 plants. This method can be used to raise seedlings year-round, but spring and summer are best; it can be done in spring together with repotting.

2. Propagation by Cuttings

The cutting method is suitable for mass propagation, but only for varieties whose leaves have no golden-yellow edging or silver stripes; otherwise the yellow and white markings on the leaves will disappear and they will become ordinary snake plant varieties.

Method: Select healthy, plump leaves and cut them into 5-6 cm lengths; the cut leaves should be placed in a dry, cool spot for several days to let the cuts dry, then inserted upright or at an angle into the medium, with the insertion depth being 1/3 or 1/2 of the length of the cut section, and water thoroughly once after insertion. Insert into sandy soil or vermiculite, taking care not to place them upside down. Leave half exposed above the soil surface, keep slightly moist, and roots will form in about a month. At 15-20°C, roots or rhizomes will emerge from the base in about a month, gradually growing into new plants. When the young seedlings have grown 2-3 leaves, they can be potted up for permanent planting.

In summer, the cuttings can grow adventitious roots in about a month, after which new shoots sprout from their base. Once the new shoots have grown leaves, they can be transplanted together with the cutting. Cuttings taken in other seasons take relatively longer to root. As long as the temperature is 15-25°C, cuttings can be taken at any time. For snake plants whose roots have already rotted, if the upper leaves have not rotted, they can still be cut off for cuttings and will survive just the same.

Young plants propagated by leaf cuttings from golden-edged and variegated varieties are green seedlings, and the golden edging and variegation patterns disappear, reducing their ornamental value; therefore these varieties are not suitable for propagation by cuttings and can only be propagated by division.

Experience: Cut mature leaves (over one year old) horizontally into small sections of about 8 cm (longer is also fine), air-dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 days, then insert them upright into clean river sand (or perlite, vermiculite), inserting 3 to 4 cm. When taking cuttings, be careful not to insert them upside down. After insertion, maintain a certain humidity; when the cutting medium is slightly dry, spray water with a fine-nozzle watering can, but it should not be too wet either, to avoid rotting, and spray New High Lipid Film to prevent infection by pathogens, enhance the intensity of photosynthesis, and improve the survival rate, then place in a spot with scattered light and air circulation. In summer, the cuttings can grow adventitious roots in about a month, after which new shoots sprout from their base. Once the new shoots have grown leaves, they can be transplanted together with the cutting. Cuttings taken in other seasons take relatively longer to root. As long as the temperature is 15°C to 25°C, cuttings can be taken at any time. For snake plants whose roots have already rotted, if the upper leaves have not rotted, they can still be cut off for cuttings and will survive just the same.

IV. Disease Control for Snake Plants

When ventilation is poor or temperatures fluctuate too much, snake plants are prone to leaf spot disease. The lesions are oily-looking and soft-rotted, yellow-brown, with a grayish-white center. In the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim or thiophanate-methyl at 800 times dilution.

1. Bacterial Soft Rot

Symptom characteristics: After infection, the leaves change from green to light yellow to grayish-yellow, and water-soaked soft rot appears at the stem base near the ground; in the later stage the affected leaves tend to fold over. When the rhizome is infected, it becomes straw-yellow and soft-rotted, and the roots rot and die. Roots exposed to waterlogging also turn black, rotted and die. The disease is especially severe in spring and summer with high temperatures and frequent rain, and during typhoons and heavy rain. The pathogen is bacterial.

After being affected, the leaves turn light yellow-green or grayish-yellow, water-soaked soft rot spots appear at the stem base near the ground, and they break easily. The rhizome becomes yellow and soft-rotted, and the roots die.

Control methods: Avoid splashing water onto the leaves when watering; when diseased leaves are found, remove and burn them promptly. When the disease occurs, spray 12% copper green emulsion at 600 times dilution or 72% agricultural streptomycin at 4000 times dilution. Spray once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 times in a row.

In winter and spring, keep the temperature above 10°C and control watering; in the hot summer weather, provide slight shading. In the vigorous spring and autumn growing periods, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to improve disease resistance. It is best to choose disease-free soil or burned soil, or soil sterilized by heat before planting. Diseased leaves found should be cut off and burned promptly.

In the early stage of the disease, you can choose medical-grade streptomycin sulfate at 2000 times dilution, 47% kasugamycin-copper wettable powder at 700 times dilution, or 30% copper hydroxide suspension concentrate at 500 times dilution, spraying once every 5-7 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays.

2. Fusarium Leaf Spot

Symptom characteristics: The leaf spots are nearly round to oblong, light reddish-brown, with light yellow margins, slightly sunken, sometimes merging. In the later stage the lesions fall off to form holes. Leaves near the ground that are infected often cause local rot, and in severe cases cause the stem base to rot and even the whole plant to fold over. The pathogen lives saprophytically on diseased plants or plant residues on the soil surface. It is prone to occur in greenhouses with poor ventilation and light transmission, excessive watering, and high humidity.

Fusarium leaf spot, also called leaf spot disease, first appears as round lesions on the leaves, which can expand to 12 mm in diameter. They are slightly sunken, light reddish-brown, with pale yellow margins. The lesions are scattered throughout the whole leaf; the centers dry up and fall off, forming holes. When several lesions merge and girdle the leaf, the part above the diseased area dies. The pathogen is a fungus of the order Sphaeriales in the subphylum Deuteromycotina. The disease is prone to occur in hot, rainy seasons.

Control methods: Reduce soil moisture. In the early stage of the disease, you can choose Bordeaux mixture, 53.8% copper hydroxide 2000 dry suspension concentrate at 1000 times dilution, or 47% kasugamycin-copper wettable powder at 700 times dilution, spraying 2-3 times in a row, once every 5-7 days.

① Cut off diseased leaves promptly when found. Avoid directly spraying the plant; water from the edge of the pot, trying not to wet the leaves, which can reduce the spread of disease.

② When necessary, spray 1:0.5:100 Bordeaux mixture, or 53.8% copper hydroxide dry suspension concentrate at 1000 times dilution, 47% kasugamycin-copper wettable powder at 700 times dilution, or 50% thiophanate-methyl sulfur suspension concentrate at 800 times dilution.

③ When newly planting snake plants, the growing medium should be sterilized and disinfected with high temperature or chemicals.

④ If the stem base rots, promptly drench with 50% thiophanate-methyl sulfur suspension concentrate at 700 times dilution or 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution.

3. Anthracnose

Symptom characteristics: The lesions start at the leaf tip or leaf margin, are brown, and show obvious or indistinct concentric rings on the lesion surface; scattered or regularly arranged small black dots form on the diseased leaves. The pathogen is a fungus of the subphylum Deuteromycotina, called Sansevieria colletotrichum. The disease is favored by hot, humid, shaded conditions in the south, and is especially severe from April to June.

Control methods: In winter and spring, cut off diseased leaf parts and withered diseased leaves, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and in the early stage of the disease promptly spray 50% anthracnose thiram wettable powder at 800 times dilution, or 75% chlorothalonil + 70% thiophanate wettable powder (1:1) at 1000 times dilution.

4. Arrowhead Scale

Symptom characteristics: Adults and nymphs gather on young branches and leaves to suck sap, causing the leaves to turn grayish-green or yellow and the whole plant to wither.

Control methods: Use natural enemies to suppress the damage. During the nymph hatching period, spray 50% phoxim or fenitrothion at 1000 times dilution. During the overwintering period, spray lime sulfur mixture at 3-5 degrees Baumé, which can reduce the source of disease the following year.

The best time to apply pesticide is during the nymph dispersal and transfer period, when the insects have no wax powder or scale cover and are weakest in resistance to pesticides. You can use 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 500-1000 times dilution, or 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 600-800 times dilution, 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 800 times dilution, 25% phosmet or insecticide or 30% bromophos emulsifiable concentrate at 400-600 times dilution, or 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate at 1500-2000 times dilution. Mineral oil emulsion can also be used, with an oil content of 0.5% in summer and autumn and 3%-5% in winter, or resin soap mixture at 18-20 times dilution in summer and autumn and 8-10 times dilution in winter. If chemical pesticides and mineral oil emulsion are mixed, the effect is even better, and it is also effective against those that have secreted wax powder or wax shells. The resin soap mixture ratio is caustic soda 2 : rosin 3 : water 10.

V. Home Care for Snake Plants

At a time when home plant growing is all the rage, the snake plant holds its own place with its strong adaptability, decorative value and usefulness, and more and more people are becoming fond of it.

The snake plant is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant, with rhizomes, linear-lanceolate leaves, strong adaptability, and no strict requirements for its living environment, making it very suitable for decorating living rooms, studies and other places. Besides providing ornament, its greatest feature is that it can purify the air. According to experts, snake plants can absorb more than 80% of indoor harmful gases, and their ability to handle formaldehyde is especially strong, which is particularly useful in newly renovated homes; snake plants can also protect against radiation. Based on these characteristics, we can roughly summarize the care methods for snake plants:

1. Choosing Soil

Snake plants need loose soil and require air permeability, so when mixing soil for snake plants, be sure to use 2/3 leaf mold plus 1/3 garden soil. Remember, the soil must be loose and breathable, otherwise moisture will not evaporate easily, causing the rhizome to rot.

2. Sunlight Requirements

Snake plants like light, so be sure to let them come into contact with sunlight regularly; it is best to place them somewhere they can be directly exposed to it. If conditions do not allow, then place them somewhere fairly close to sunlight; being in a dark place for a long time will cause the leaves to turn yellow.

3. Temperature

Snake plants have fairly high temperature requirements; their suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C, and in winter it should not drop below 10°C at the lowest, so be sure to pay attention, especially in northern regions.

4. Watering

Snake plants also have fairly high water requirements; generally speaking, if the soil is fairly loose, water twice a week, while in winter, because of the climate, only once is needed.

5. Pruning

Compared with other home-grown green plants, snake plants grow relatively fast, so when the pot becomes full, manual pruning is needed, mainly cutting away old leaves and overly dense areas to ensure sunlight and growing space.

6. Repotting

Snake plants are perennial plants; generally speaking, they should be repotted once every two years, and when repotting, be sure to add nutrients to the new soil so as to ensure their nutrient supply.

7. Planting Method

Snake plants are root-grown plants; generally speaking, you only need to plant a few, and after a year you can harvest a full pot. When planting, first place part of the soil at the bottom of the pot, then start planting from one side of the pot, planting evenly within the pot.

8. Fertilizing

Snake plants are not demanding about fertilizer; you only need to fertilize twice a month during the growing season, and be sure to apply a dilute fertilizer solution so as to ensure lush growth.

9. Threat of Diseases and Pests

The common diseases of snake plants are mainly leaf spot and anthracnose, in which case you can spray 50% carbendazim for treatment; the common pest is the weevil, in which case you can spray 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution to kill it.

How to care for snake plants? Snake plant care methods