How do you manage orchid care? An experienced grower shares practical tips
Do you like orchids? Have you ever grown orchids? Many people who love growing orchids know there is a saying about orchid growing: three parts planting, seven parts management. This means that management is very important when growing orchids. If day-to-day management is improper, orchids will develop all kinds of problems. So how should orchids be managed correctly? Let me introduce the key management points for orchid care.
The four correct key management points for orchid care
1. Different stages require different light
Apart from winter, when orchids need to be kept indoors, they should be grown under a shade frame in spring, summer and autumn. With suitable light and proper fertilizer and water, they can grow broad, green leaves and produce strong scapes with many flowers. The shading of the shade frame is best adjusted freely as needed, and should not be too rigidly fixed; generally it should be opened in the morning and evening so the orchids can absorb dew. Orchids generally need semi-shaded, semi-sunny light conditions, and especially during their flowering period they need cool, shaded and humid conditions, which is the only way to extend the orchid's ornamental period. Generally only toward the end of autumn is stronger light given to orchids, and in winter it is also best to place orchids in a spot with plenty of strong light to help them grow. The structure and color of orchid leaves are determined by light: generally those with thick leaf flesh and yellow-green or variegated leaves need more light, while those with thin leaves and dark green leaves need less light. Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi need strong light, while Cymbidium ensifolium and Cymbidium sinense need weaker light.
2. Different seasons require different humidity
Orchids love a humid growing environment, but the potting soil should be kept dry, so water can be sprinkled on the ground and on the potting soil every day to increase the surrounding humidity. Do not water too much; keep it basically seventy percent dry, and in winter keep it even drier. Slightly dry potting soil helps concentrate the plant's nutrients and favors flower bud differentiation, while overly wet soil easily makes orchid leaves grow leggy and can even cause root rot. Therefore the lower part of the orchid pot should be filled with broken bricks, charcoal pieces and the like to help drainage; before flowering, sprinkled water must not be sprayed onto the flower scape, otherwise the buds will rot. In short, the spatial humidity orchids require is more important than the humidity at the roots.
3. Key management points for repotting orchids
Because orchids grow slowly, producing new roots and new leaves only once a year, dividing the plants generally needs to wait until two years have passed. When dividing, the soil should be thoroughly dried. If the orchid's fleshy roots are found to be slightly wilted, the orchid seedlings must be tipped out, then the old soil shaken off, and then diseased roots, old roots and broken roots cut away. Even if the plant is pruned to the point of having no roots, there is no need to worry; after pruning it should be washed clean with water. Then divide the orchid seedlings into 2-3 clumps, noting that each clump should have at least 3 or more pseudobulbs. The wounds on the orchid seedlings can be coated with stove ash or sulfur powder, then placed in a cool, ventilated spot. After they have dried until the roots are slightly dry, white and soft, plant them in potting soil with a fairly high content of sand and gravel. The retained orchid roots should be placed naturally in the pot, with new shoots facing outward, leaving room for their growth and development. Be careful not to plant too deep; make sure half of the pseudobulb is exposed.
4. Pest and disease control during orchid growth
Physiological diseases of orchids can be observed and identified from subtle changes in the leaves: generally, leaves that turn yellow and thin indicate a lack of fertilizer; scorching that spreads gradually downward from the leaf tip is caused by excessive fertilizer or the use of unrotted fertilizer; scorching that spreads upward from the bottom of the leaf is due to overwatering; yellowing or black spots, or even scorching, appearing from the middle of the leaf are caused by too great a difference between soil temperature and water temperature.
The above are the key management points for orchids. When caring for orchids, we must manage all four of these aspects well. Only then can we grow vibrant orchids. If you love orchids, you must not neglect these key management points.
How can orchids be cared for better? New techniques for orchid care and management
How to plant orchids has already been introduced in detail on this site, so how can orchids be cared for better? Do you know all the new techniques for orchid care and management? Next, let me introduce in detail how orchids can be cared for better and the new techniques for orchid care and management, to help everyone grow orchids better.
New techniques for orchid care and management:
Orchids must be placed in a sunny spot, especially in the cold winter, to create a better growing space for orchid growth.
Repotting must be done promptly, not only to maintain space for orchid growth but also to ensure the soil is fertile after repotting, so orchids can absorb nutrients better and grow better.
The best growing temperature for orchids is 3-10 degrees or above, otherwise orchids are very likely to suffer cold damage, so when temperatures are low be sure to take warming measures. You can also spray fertilizer before temperatures drop to maintain the orchid's own temperature, which reduces the impact of cold weather.
When growing orchids, different varieties must be kept separate, otherwise different varieties will affect each other.
How are orchids cared for in summer and autumn? A guide to orchid care in summer and autumn
How are orchids cared for in summer and autumn? Orchids can also be called Chinese orchids, spring orchids, orchid grass, orchid flowers, and secluded orchids. Flower colors include white, pure white, white-green, yellow-green, pale yellow, pale yellow-brown, yellow and others. Orchids like shade and fear sun, and dislike intense heat and dryness. When growing them, an environment with good ventilation is required. Therefore, summer and autumn care and management can be carried out according to these habits of orchids.
1. Shading and ventilation
From early summer to the end of September, orchids must be shaded, with the shade level required to be no less than 70%. For heavy shading use shade netting; for light shading, place them on a north-facing balcony or under the eaves. During this period the plants should be spaced out, with no less than 10cm between pots, and the bottom of the pots is best propped up with bricks. This can increase airflow and allow ventilation and air exchange. In addition, pollution from harmful substances such as sulfur dioxide, hydrogen fluoride and dust must be prevented to promote healthy growth.
2. Cooling and humidifying
The suitable growing temperature for orchids is 20-28 degrees. When the temperature is above 25 degrees they grow rapidly, and above 32 degrees they enter a dormant period. When the temperature reaches 30 degrees, cooling and humidifying measures must be taken. For orchids grown outdoors, river sand or plastic film can be spread on the ground; for balconies, a sponge can be placed under the pots, kept moist at all times. At the same time, mist the plants and sprinkle water on the ground more often during the day. For indoor growing, air conditioning or electric fans can be used to cool things down.
3. Watering and fertilizing
At present, most orchids are grown in soil, and mostly in pots. The principle for potting soil moisture is to keep it "moist but not wet, dry but not parched." Water when the surface soil is slightly white; never water too much. From midsummer to early autumn, generally water thoroughly once in the early morning, and in the evening water as appropriate depending on how dry or moist the potting soil is. At noon, if the potting soil is dry, replenish water at any time. After mid-autumn the climate gradually turns cool, but the air is dry, so follow the requirement that "autumn is not dry" and keep the potting soil moist. Orchid fertilizing follows the principles of small amounts, dilution, frequent application and timely application. From May to September, fertilize as appropriate according to the different orchid varieties and different growth stages. Liquid fertilizer is generally applied once every 15-20 days, with a fertilizer-to-water ratio of 1:10; indoors, solid fertilizer is used. Large-scale production mostly uses chemical fertilizer, with a concentration of about 0.1%. The concentration for foliar spraying is prepared according to the product instructions.
4. Disease prevention and pest control
For orchid anthracnose, carbendazim and thiophanate can be used for control; for white silk disease, a 500-1000 times dilution of chloramphenicol injection can be poured on to control the disease; adult scale insects can be removed by hand, and during the larval hatching period in May-June, spray with chemicals to kill them; for aphids and whiteflies, spray a 500 times dilution of 10% wettable powder for control.