How are garden flowers and nursery stock propagated and cultivated? Ecological characteristics and key points of cultivation management

  In recent years, with the advancement of China's greening projects, the nursery stock industry has ushered in a new "spring", and the enthusiasm of nursery growers has gradually risen. However, in order to improve the quality of landscaping construction, the propagation, breeding and cultivation management of flowers and nursery stock have also become key technical points that modern nursery growers should master. Below, the editor of Huinong Network will talk with you about the propagation, breeding and cultivation management techniques of garden flowers and nursery stock.

  1. Ecological characteristics

  1.1 Herbaceous flowers

  Herbaceous flowers can be divided into annual flowers, biennial flowers, indoor foliage plants, bulbous flowers, perennial flowers and succulent flowers, etc. Different flower species have different ecological habits and growth conditions, and their requirements for the growing environment also differ. Taking annual flowers as an example, their growth cycle is slightly shorter and their cold tolerance is poor, so they are suitable for sowing in spring, and their flowering period is in summer and autumn. Common annual flowers include cockscomb, marigold and peacock flower, etc. Compared with annual flowers, biennial flowers have stronger cold tolerance, are suitable for sowing in autumn and winter, and flower in spring. Common biennial flowers include pansy, stock and dianthus, etc. Perennial flowers are also perennial plants, with a relatively long growth cycle and a long survival time. Common perennial flowers include peony, asparagus fern and African daisy, etc.

  1.2 Woody flowers

  Woody flowers are mainly divided into shrubs, vines and trees, etc. Shrub flowers usually grow in clumps, without obvious main trunks and side branches, such as Chinese rose, winter jasmine and tree peony, etc. Most vine flowers are deciduous vines, and their stems and tendrils need to climb on other objects in order to grow. Tree flowers are mainly divided into 2 types, evergreen trees and deciduous trees, with tall and straight plants, distinct main trunks and luxuriant side branches, such as cherry blossom, crape myrtle and plum blossom, etc.

  2. Propagation and breeding techniques

  2.1 Sowing technique

  In landscaping construction work, sowing is the most commonly used propagation technique. It is relatively simple to operate and has a wide range of applications, making it a commonly used method in the propagation and breeding of garden flowers and nursery stock. However, the drawbacks of this method are also obvious, namely that the survival rate of flower seeds is not high. Therefore, generally before sowing, the flower seeds can first be treated, and by shortening the germination time of the flower seeds, the germination rate of the seeds can be increased, thereby improving the seed survival rate. At the same time, certain control measures should also be taken over the growth rhythm of the flowers. Flowers with the same growth rhythm are easier to manage, and they make garden flowers more aesthetically pleasing, improving the quality of landscaping construction to a certain extent.

  2.2 Cutting technique

  Different from the sowing technique, the cutting technique uses the vegetative organs of flowers as material for propagation. The process is to bury vegetative organs of flowers that have grown to a certain stage in the soil so that they grow into new plants. Plants cultivated with this technique can adapt well to the environment and climate, so the survival rate is also quite high. However, different varieties of flowers have different vegetative organs that can be used for propagation, which requires relevant landscaping staff to fully understand and recognize the vegetative organs of different types of flowers, so as to better apply the cutting technique and carry out the propagation and breeding of garden flowers and nursery stock. For example, the vegetative organs that can be used for propagation of crape myrtle and pomegranate are mature branches; for Chinese rose, osmanthus and rhododendron, etc., developed mature branches and leaves should be used as cuttings; while for trumpet vine and lilac, etc., root segments are used for cuttings.

  2.3 Grafting technique

  Through the grafting technique, the vegetative organs of one flower are grafted onto another plant, so that 2 different flowers can be combined into one new plant. This technique has relatively high requirements for the technical level of landscaping staff, and also has certain requirements for the timing of flower grafting and the selection of rootstock. Therefore, landscaping staff must fully understand the growth habits of flowers and be proficient in grafting techniques. In order to ensure the survival rate of grafted plants, attention should be paid to controlling light intensity, temperature and humidity during grafting and in post-grafting management. Generally speaking, there are many commonly used grafting methods, such as approach grafting, cut grafting, cleft grafting, shield budding, patch budding and softwood grafting, etc.

  3. Key points of cultivation management

  3.1 Planting

  When cultivating garden flowers and nursery stock, choosing suitable soil is the focus of the work. Usually, landscaping staff mix and prepare cultivation soil from materials such as leaf mold, garden soil, leaf fiber and perlite. During the cultivation process, damage to the seedling root system should be avoided or reduced, and the seedlings should not be planted too deep in the pot, so that the seedlings can absorb water and fertilizer. After the plants mature, the pots should also be changed regularly to meet the nutritional needs of flower growth and ensure healthy flower growth.

  3.2 Water and fertilizer management

  Reasonable water and fertilizer management is the key to promoting flower growth and plays a very important role in the healthy growth of flowers. Landscaping staff should reasonably arrange the watering time and cycle for flowers, and the water used for irrigation should be mild soft water. Fertilization, on the other hand, needs to be determined by staff according to the fertilizer requirements and actual growth conditions of the flowers, flexibly adjusting the number of fertilizations as the seasons and climate change, so that the flowers can fully absorb nutrients.

  3.3 Pest prevention

  The pest periods of flowers should be fully understood. During periods of high pest incidence, the growth status of flowers should be monitored regularly and corresponding control strategies should be formulated. For different types of flowers, suitable control agents must be selected to avoid flowers being affected by pests during growth.

  The above is the propagation, breeding and cultivation management techniques of garden flowers and nursery stock compiled by the editor of Huinong Network. We hope it is helpful to you.

Complete collection of hydroponic methods for various flowers

Hydroponic methods for various flowers

Agave

1. Use the root-washing method or division method to convert a mature plant to hydroponics. Old roots also adapt to the hydroponic environment and generally will not rot. New roots grow in the water in about 7 days. Suitable for low-concentration nutrient cultivation.

2. The crown of the umbrella plant is relatively large and dense, so it is not advisable to plant too many stems hydroponically. Too dense will affect ventilation and light transmission, and also look messy and disordered. A sparser arrangement is more natural, 7 to 9 stems are enough.

3. To prevent lodging, a deep container should be used for planting.

4. The leaf surface of the umbrella plant has well-developed stomata, in especially large numbers, and transpiration is vigorous, so the naturally consumed solution needs to be replenished in time. It is a relatively easy plant to grow hydroponically.

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Peace lily

1. For plants formed by hydroponics using the division method or root-washing method, the original root system can quickly adapt to hydroponic conditions, and root rot generally will not occur. New roots can sprout in 7 to 10 days, and in a short time you can enjoy the flowers, leaves and roots! 2. The peace lily has a well-developed root system, white as jade. Cultivating it in a relatively clear container gives a better ornamental effect.

3. The peace lily is relatively shade-tolerant, and hydroponic plants can also bloom in a semi-shaded place indoors.

4. When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer, some old leaves will initially turn yellow and should be removed in time, and the water should be changed every day. After one week, reduce the frequency of water changes.

Coleus

1. For hydroponic coleus, it is advisable to cut a section of stem with 5-8 leaves from the plant. After inserting it into water, at a water temperature of 15 to 28 degrees, roots can generally sprout in 10 to 15 days, and it can then be planted in an exquisite vase. The leaves of coleus are gorgeous, making it a good decorative flower. But note that too much fertilizer should not be added during hydroponics, to avoid the leaves turning green!

2. To keep the leaves bright, it needs to be placed in a brightly lit place. If the light is insufficient, the leaf color will become dull and lose its luster.

3. Use pinching to control height, promote branching, prevent it from producing flower spikes, and keep the plant full.

Lucky bamboo

1. It is one of the most suitable flowers for hydroponics, widely planted in countless households. It is cultivated by water cuttings and roots very easily, and maintenance and management are relatively extensive. At a temperature of 18 to 28 degrees, it remains in a growing state all year round.

2. When a mature plant is converted to hydroponics by the root-washing method, you can see that the original soil-cultivated root system is orange-red, but when grown hydroponically, the roots that emerge are indeed milky white. The red and white contrast with each other and are very beautiful. Lucky bamboo is elegant and fresh, evergreen all year round, and carries the meaning of bamboo bringing peace and wealth and good fortune, and is deeply loved by people.

Alocasia

1. It is easiest to cultivate from small seedlings sprouted by the plant. In the early stage of hydroponics, pay attention to changing the water and washing the roots every day. Alocasia is one of the fastest-rooting flowers among hydroponic flowers. New water roots can grow in about 7 to 10 days.

2. The sap in the stems and leaves of alocasia is toxic. Contact with the skin will cause itching, redness and swelling, and it should be rinsed promptly with clean water. Note that it must not be ingested.

3. Alocasia has a unique graceful posture and beautiful leaf shape, making it an excellent decoration for a desk!

Golden pothos

1. Golden pothos is very suitable for hydroponic cultivation. Both the water cutting method and the root-washing method can easily obtain ideal cultivated plants. Under hydroponic conditions, new roots can sprout in about 15 to 20 days.

2. Put the aerial roots into the water together. The aerial roots can also play the role of nutrient roots, absorbing water and nutrients.

3. During the growth period, spraying the leaves with diluted special hydroponic fertilizer will make the leaves more gorgeous.

4. The vines of golden pothos are soft and elegant, with mottled leaf colors. Small plants can also be planted in wall-mounted containers, allowing them to slant and hang down like a green decorative curtain, fresh and elegant.

Snake plant

1. For household hydroponic planting of snake plant, it is best to choose the golden-edged snake plant with yellow leaf margins, and its ornamental value is best for hydroponic planting. At a water temperature of 20 degrees, new roots sprout in about 10-15 days.

2. The root system of snake plant is loose and should not be pruned. Snake plant has beautiful leaf color, and its arrow-like leaf shape is upright and upward, full of noble temperament, and highly adaptable. It can be used for green decoration in living rooms, studies and even dark places.

Parlor palm

1. Choose small and medium-sized soil-cultivated plants and convert them to hydroponics using the root-washing method.

2. The root system of parlor palm is slender and underdeveloped, and new roots sprout slowly in a hydroponic environment. However, the old roots are firm and not easy to rot. Generally, the root system is not pruned.

Broadleaf lady palm

1. For household hydroponics, it is advisable to choose small and medium-sized plants and plant them using the root-washing method.

2. It is better to keep it sparse than dense. Raising 2-3 stems per container is enough to show its elegant and quiet temperament.

3. The roots of broadleaf lady palm are dense in texture and elastic, and adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment. However, during hydroponics, new roots are not easy to sprout, and it may even fail to grow new roots for several months, but this does not hinder its growth.

Spider plant

1. For hydroponic spider plant, it is best to choose the aerial roots of plantlets growing on the stolons [runners] for planting, because the aerial roots on the stolons are very suitable for the hydroponic environment, and management is also easy. Roots can sprout in about 5 days in water.

2. When using the root-washing method or division method for hydroponic spider plant, the original thick fleshy roots will rot, so the water must be changed every day, the root system cleaned, and rotten roots removed. In about 25 to 30 days, new roots can grow from the rhizome area, and the old roots gradually adapt to the hydroponic environment and no longer rot. At this time, nutrient solution can be used for cultivation.

3. When growing spider plant hydroponically, it is advisable to choose green-leaved varieties. Silver-striped spider plant is relatively difficult to handle.

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Green emperor

1. For cultivation by the water cutting method, it is advisable to cut the upper branches of the stem and insert the aerial roots into the water together. New roots sprout in about 10 to 15 days.

2. For household hydroponic green emperor, small plants should be used, and water should often be sprayed on the plant surface to keep the leaves fresh.

3. The stems of green emperor are thick and strong. Taking advantage of this characteristic for upright cultivation gives a better ornamental effect. Also provide appropriate diffused light.

Philodendron selloum

1. For hydroponic Philodendron selloum, also choose small seedlings and use the root-washing method.

2. Frequently spray water on the leaf surface, and wipe dust off the leaf surface with a wet cloth to keep the leaves fresh.

3. Philodendron selloum has a peculiar leaf shape and is an excellent choice for home decoration.

Chinese evergreen

1. Cut an appropriately long upper stem, wash off the bleeding sap, and plant it by the water cutting method. At a water temperature of 25 degrees, roots can grow in about 20 days. 2. Use the root-washing method to convert a formed soil-cultivated plant to hydroponics, and root rot generally will not occur. However, it should be cultivated with a low-concentration nutrient solution. 3. Growing Chinese evergreen in water has a long history in China. In the Guangdong area, raising it in glass bottles filled with water is quite common. Water cultivation is convenient, clean and hygienic. It has a special charm.

Monstera

1. Monstera is very adaptable to hydroponic planting. All year round, soil-cultivated plants can be converted to hydroponic planting using the root-washing method.

2. Plant by the water cutting method. The complete aerial roots on the branches should be retained and inserted into the water together. The aerial roots can turn into nutrient roots and also play a supporting role for the plant.

3. Monstera has large leaves and thick stems. For hydroponics, it is advisable to choose a thick and stable container to prevent lodging.

4. Often use a fine-nozzle spray bottle to spray water on the leaf surface to increase environmental humidity, which is beneficial to plant growth.

Arrowhead plant

1. Use the root-washing method to plant a mature plant, which is not limited by season. For water cutting cultivation, as long as the plant has aerial roots, it can be done all year round.

2. Management is extensive and growth is fast, so plants should be renewed frequently. Cut off the top branches of overgrown plants and cultivate them separately. New roots can sprout in about 10 days. Axillary buds on the old stems will also sprout quickly.

3. For hydroponic arrowhead plant, it is advisable to choose small plants of the brightly colored white butterfly arrowhead plant, pink butterfly arrowhead plant and silver-leaf arrowhead plant for upright cultivation. Because of their bright leaf color and butterfly-like shape, they have considerable ornamental value.

Earth star

After flowering, root offsets can be used for water cultivation. When separating the root offsets, they should not be too small. They can be broken off by hand, the base trimmed flat, and several leaves near the base peeled off, then placed in a container so that they touch the water surface. In a shaded environment at 20°C, roots can form in 2-3 weeks. Potted plants can also be washed free of soil and then grown hydroponically, but rooting is slower, requiring more than about one month, and fewer roots form. The pH of the nutrient solution should be between pH4-5. Earth star is small in size and bright in color, making it an excellent desk ornament.

Tulip

For hydroponic tulips, varieties should be selected according to the needs of the flowering period, so as to ensure the freshness and beauty of the tulips. The second point is temperature control. From bulb germination to flowering, it can be divided into 3 management stages, namely the germination stage, the vegetative growth stage and the flowering stage.

1. Germination stage management: Fill the flowerpot containing the bulbs with water (ordinary domestic water is fine), so that the roots of the bulbs are immersed in the water. Place the flowerpot in a bright place indoors (best on a windowsill), keep the room temperature at 13t, and do not let the temperature fluctuate too much. Roots and buds will grow in 4-7 days, thus entering the vegetative growth stage. Change the water every three days, and after budding, change the water once a week. The relationship between the number of days after bulb planting and the number of germinated bulbs is as follows:

Days after bulb cultivation 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Number germinated 0 0 0 15 28 39 48

2. Vegetative growth stage management: During this period, as the growth amount and growth speed of roots, stems and leaves increase, a large amount of water is needed. The water volume in the pot should be maintained so that the roots are immersed in water all the time. The growth temperature should be controlled at 15°C-18°C. The temperature must not be too high, otherwise it will cause excessive growth, with thin and long stems, affecting appearance. Because plants have phototropism, the direction of the flowerpot should be rotated frequently so that the stems can grow upright without tilting. After 2-3 weeks of growth, when the number of leaves reaches 3-4, oval flower buds will appear at the stem tips, and from then on it enters the flowering stage.

3. Flowering stage management: After budding, the temperature can still be controlled at 15°C-18°C. After 5-7 days, the flower buds gradually open, and the flowers show gorgeous colors. After the flowers open, the flowerpot can be moved to a cool place indoors to prolong the flowering period. Generally, the flowers can remain open for 2-3 weeks.

Exposed-root hydroponics of wax flower

Wax flower is fragrant, beautiful in color and long in flowering period, and is a good material for flower arrangements.

Wax flower has traditionally been soil-cultivated. Now, through exposed-root hydroponic trials, it has the following characteristics: 1) labor-saving; 2) hygienic; 3) fewer pests and diseases; 4) simple management; 5) long flowering period; 6) you can view the roots, view the leaves and also enjoy the flowers, etc.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-cultivated wax flower, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few attractive river stones at the bottom of the bottle, move the treated wax flower seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day, and after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the wax flower, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month thereafter to promote growth, flowering and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

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Hydroponic method for winter jasmine

1. Water cutting time: Water cutting can be carried out all year round. For water cutting in winter, the container can be placed indoors in a sunny place. In summer, attention should be paid to shading to prevent strong sunlight exposure. During water cutting, the water temperature should be kept at 15°C to 20°C. Cuttings root quickly and the survival rate is high.

2. Cuttings for water cutting: Select branches that grew vigorously in the current year and have plump buds. The length of the cuttings is generally 8 cm to 12 cm, and 2 to 4 nodes can be retained. Cut at about 2 mm below the lowest node. Bind every 10 cuttings. If there are too many leaves on the upper half of the cutting, some can be removed appropriately to facilitate rooting.

3. Water cutting container: The container is a basin with a relatively large mouth or a wide-mouthed bottle with a shallow bottom, etc. It must be washed clean before use.

4. Water cutting method: Fill the container with clean rainwater, river water or tap water to a depth of 8 cm to 10 cm, then place the bound cuttings in rows into the water, with the immersion depth at 4 cm to 6 cm. Then place the container outdoors in a ventilated, semi-shaded place. The water quality must be kept fresh and clean, and the water can be changed once every 3 to 5 days. Generally, after about 20 days, tumor-like callus tissue can form, and in 35 to 40 days, fibrous roots can grow.

5. Timely planting: When the fibrous roots grow to 3 cm to 5 cm, they must be planted in time. Be careful during operation not to damage the root system. Generally, after planting, shade for about 10 days, and then normal management can be carried out.

Clivia

Container selection

To grow clivia hydroponically, the container must first be selected well. Generally speaking, a transparent glass container is preferable. If growing one seedling, only a glass jar is needed. If planting a large number hydroponically, a metal mesh with openings one centimeter in diameter can be made from thin iron wire, and a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh can be made; or an aquarium can be used instead. Then cover the hydroponic box with the metal mesh, insert the clivia seedlings through the mesh openings into the nutrient solution respectively. The depth of the flower roots in the culture solution should not exceed the pseudobulb at the base of the roots.

Nutrient solution preparation

Nutrient solutions are divided into inorganic and organic types. The inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: calcium 1.5 grams, ferrous sulfate 0.01 grams, urea grams, monopotassium phosphate 1 gram, magnesium sulfate 0.5 grams. After the above 5 inorganic salts are all prepared, dissolve them in 1000 grams of water and it is ready for use. The organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: 100 grams of fried hemp seed meal, 100 grams of bone meal (made from unsalted fresh bones), 150 grams of soybean cake powder, 50 grams of cooked sesame powder, then dissolve in 1000 grams of water. Comparing the above two nutrient solutions, the organic fertilizer has rich components but low nutrient content, while the inorganic fertilizer has relatively single components but strong fertilizer effect and quick results. To make up for each other's shortcomings, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, apply the inorganic fertilizer once a week and the organic fertilizer once every 5 days.

Water use

For hydroponic clivia, tap water cannot be used directly. Water that has been "aged" must be used. So-called "aged" water means putting tap water in a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3-5 days, so that chlorides such as bleaching powder that are harmful to clivia roots precipitate. From its appearance, the precipitate in "aged" water changes from strip-shaped to clump-shaped, and the water color is best when green. After the water is "aged" well, when submerging the root position, the pseudobulb must not be submerged. If the water level is too shallow, clivia cannot receive sufficient water supply; if the water level is too deep (submerging the pseudobulb), it will cause root rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality. If the roots are found to be somewhat yellowing or turning black, it indicates that the water is both lacking oxygen and low in fertilizer, and the water must be changed immediately.

Air, sunlight, temperature

Whether the ventilation of the clivia roots in hydroponics can be handled well is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. After a period of cultivation, a layer of moss will grow on the roots of hydroponic clivia. When the moss is too thick, it will seriously affect root respiration and corrode the culture solution. At this time, a soft, clean bristle brush is needed to gently brush off the moss layer on the roots (it does not need to be brushed very clean, because a small amount of moss on the roots has little effect). In addition, frequently check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The checking method is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim freely in the water, it means the water is not short of oxygen. If the small fish always float to the surface, with their mouths and gills exposed to breathe, it means the water is short of oxygen. After discovering oxygen deficiency in the water, oxygen must be replenished. There are two methods: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight treatment, clivia is a semi-shade and semi-sun plant, so attention should be paid to lighting. Especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive scattered light. In addition, according to the light-oriented characteristics of clivia leaves, attention should be paid to making the leaves receive light evenly. Otherwise, the leaves will be of uneven length and the growth direction will also be staggered front and back. Generally, the lighting angle should be adjusted once every two or three days. In terms of temperature treatment, the environmental temperature for adult clivia is preferably 11°C-25°C, and for small seedlings it can be slightly higher, 20°C-35°C is fine. When growing clivia in water, the day-night temperature difference should be controlled. In winter, keep it at about 20°C during the day and not lower than 15°C at night.

Chinese rose

After the Chinese rose flowers fade, cut off the spent flowers and let the flowering branch grow for several days. Wait until the first axillary bud on the flowering branch grows thicker and stronger and accumulates nutrients, then cut off a cutting with 3 nodes, remove the petiole at the bottom layer, use a sharp blade to cut the back side of the bottom bud into a slant, and immediately insert it into a prepared bottle filled with clean water. The cutting can be inserted one-third into the water. To reduce water evaporation from the leaves, some leaves can be cut off. In a dark environment, the cut is more likely to grow new roots, so a brown bottle should be used. If there is no brown one, wrap the bottle with a layer of black plastic film. Place the bottle in a south-facing windowsill, and do not expose it directly to the sun.

When the temperature is relatively high, the water can be changed once a week. At a temperature of 15-25°C, roots can grow in only about 20 days. When the young roots grow to 1-2 cm long, they can be transplanted into pots. Because the young roots grew in water, in order to help them adapt to the environment, water once a day at the beginning of transplanting, and then gradually reduce it. After shading for one week, they can be exposed to sunlight in the morning and evening, and they will survive.

The advantage of water propagation is: the method is simple, the survival rate is high, it is not limited by time, and cuttings can be taken after the flowers fade.

Azalea

Soilless culture is characterized by replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used a solid substrate for soilless culture of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was Satsuki azalea; under soilless culture the crown structure was compact, the number of flowers was greater, the flower diameter was larger, and there were fewer pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, making it a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of the substrate

Azalea roots are very fine and require a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, stir it evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it several times with clean water; after air-drying, mix it evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, cover again with plastic film for one month, and then it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply light fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH at around 5, and spraying a low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macronutrients: add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer to 1 liter of water, then add 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate; this is the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 g of disodium edetate, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the stock solution. When using, add 1 milliliter of trace element stock solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally somewhat greater than for soil culture, just enough to keep the substrate moist; at this time it is exactly the stage of flower bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, when fertilizer demand is relatively high, so water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, water demand is high, so in addition to daily watering, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time fertilizer demand is also high, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and benefit flower bud differentiation. After the hottest summer period begins, take care to keep the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; fertilizer application can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cools, the amount of fertilizer can be gradually increased, applying full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month and spraying foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote robust growth of flower buds. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilizer should not be applied; simply water appropriately according to the degree of dryness or moisture of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic hyacinth

Hyacinth is a plant of the Liliaceae family and is also a bulbous flower. The hyacinth inflorescence is full, the colors are diverse, and the roots are pure white.

Key points for hydroponics:

(1) Choose a container whose mouth can hold the bulb in place, preferably a gourd-shaped container that is small at the top and large at the bottom, and better made of transparent glass. Some household items such as goblets and wine bottles can also be used, and wide-mouthed containers can also be chosen.

(2) The water temperature should not be high; below 15°C is better.

(3) Place the bulb on the neck of the bottle. After roots begin to grow, the water level can be lowered until the roots can just touch the water surface; this allows the roots to fully absorb oxygen and promotes root growth. After the roots have developed, cover the culture container with black cloth to allow the bulb to develop further.

(4) In winter, move the container to a place with ample sunlight to encourage larger and stronger flowers.

(5) Several hyacinth plants can also be planted in a fish tank, using sand as the substrate and supplemented with shade-loving ferns, forming a small scene full of wild charm that is also very unique.

Gerbera

A perennial herb of the Asteraceae family, with relatively large flower diameter and rich flower colors, blooming all year round. It prefers a warm, sunny, and well-ventilated environment, is a semi-hardy flower, and likes fertile, loose soil. Gerbera is a very good cut flower variety, lasts a long time in water, has high ornamental value, and is also good at absorbing formaldehyde.

These plants generally do not require special management in water culture. Any container with a certain volume that allows the roots to spread can be used, and a glass container with an open mouth is more favorable for maintaining water quality and root growth. When planting, avoid letting the leaves sink into the water to prevent rot; place it under suitable light conditions and it will soon take root; when the water is found to be low, add some water to prevent the roots from drying out; when the water becomes turbid, take out the plant, clean the container, and refill with water. Generally, for water-cultured plants, change the water once every three days and apply nutrient solution once; the ratio and amount of nutrient solution depend on the size of the plant.

Asparagus fern

Aliases: cloud bamboo, flat grass

Family and genus: Liliaceae, Asparagus

Morphological characteristics: The asparagus fern has an elegant plant form, with slender and beautiful leaf-like branches shaped like cloud flakes, resembling bamboo but not bamboo, with a clear and free posture. Its water roots are fleshy and pure white. Paired with an attractive transparent container, it is both dignified and graceful, and also appears noble and elegant, making it an excellent choice in hydroponics.

Growth habits: It likes a warm, humid, and semi-moist environment. The suitable temperature is 15-25°C. The minimum temperature in winter should not be lower than 5°C. It likes scattered light, avoids direct strong light, and avoids dry air.

Key points for hydroponics:

1) Material selection: choose a soil-cultured plant with a good plant form and vigorous growth, wash off the soil and cut off rotten roots, then plant it in a hydroponic container and add clean water up to one-third to one-half of the root system.

2) Maintenance: at first change the clean water once every 2-3 days and remove rotten roots promptly. After two weeks the root system has basically adapted to the environment and has already grown water roots. After that, change the clean water once every 5-6 days. When the plant shows relatively strong growth, switch to nutrient solution culture. The nutrient solution should be shallow rather than deep. In summer, replenish it about once every 10 days. When the sediment in the nutrient solution increases to the point that it needs replacement, generally replace the nutrient solution once every 1-2 months. In summer, avoid direct strong light; in winter, it is better to place it in a warm place with relatively strong light.

Keep the room temperature above 5°C. When the air is dry, often spray water on the leaves to maintain relatively high air humidity and keep the branches and leaves clean.

Ivy (Hedera hellx)

Alias: English ivy

Family and genus: Araliaceae, Hedera

Because of its dense vines and leaves, it is the most ideal vertical greening material for indoor and outdoor walls, and it is also an excellent groundcover plant. It is suitable to let it climb on buildings, walls, steep slopes, rock walls, and ground under tree shade. The demand for potted plants is increasing day by day.

(1) Morphological characteristics and varieties

Evergreen climbing vine, with slender and soft branches and vines, and aerial roots. The tips of the vines grow in a spiral shape and can climb onto other objects. Leaves alternate, leathery, dark green, with long petioles; leaves on vegetative branches are triangular-ovate, entire or with 3 shallow lobes; leaves on flowering branches are ovate to rhombic. Racemose inflorescence, small spherical flowers, pale yellow. Drupe spherical, black.

Commonly cultivated species in the same genus include Chinese ivy (H. nepalensis var. sinensis), Japanese ivy, variegated ivy (CV. discolor), golden heart ivy, silver-edged ivy (CV. siluer quetn), etc.

(2) Ecological habits

Ivy is a typical shade-loving vine, but it can also grow in full-light environments. It grows well under warm and humid climatic conditions, and is not cold-tolerant. It has low requirements for soil, likes moist, loose, and fertile soil, and is not tolerant of saline-alkali soil.

(3) Propagation methods

The nodes of ivy can naturally take root in humid air, and after touching the ground they will naturally enter the soil, so it is mostly propagated by cuttings. Use vegetative branches as cuttings. After cutting, shade promptly, keep air humidity high, and do not let the bed soil be too wet; roots will form in about 20 days. (4) Cultivation techniques

Ivy cultivation and management are simple and extensive, but it needs to be planted in a place with moist soil and air circulation. Transplanting can be carried out in early autumn or late spring. After planting, pruning is needed to promote branching. In the south, it is often planted in shaded areas of gardens, letting it naturally creep on the ground or on rockeries. In the north, it is mostly potted. Potted plants can be tied to various supports and trained into shape. In summer, maintain them under a shade shed, and water less, otherwise stem rot is likely to occur. If this disease occurs, separate diseased plants from healthy ones, and alternately spray carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl. In winter, place it in a greenhouse to overwinter, and keep indoor air humidity from becoming too dry, but the pot soil should not be too wet. Hydroponic ivy can use whole plants or cuttings, preferably in spring and autumn. After the root system grows roots in the cutting bed, it can be placed in a planting basket for root induction. Once cultivated well, ivy is very easy to maintain, and it is also clean and hygienic, making it an excellent item for home viewing. For well-cultivated plants, a general-purpose nutrient solution on the market can be used, or a foliage plant nutrient solution can be used. The nutrient solution concentration is generally 1/4 of the original formula.

(4) Other effects

Ivy is not only a very good greening plant, but the whole herb can also be used as medicine. It has the effects of dispelling wind, promoting diuresis, activating blood circulation, and reducing swelling, and mainly treats rheumatic joint pain, low back pain, and traumatic injuries. Grinding it into juice or decocting it with water to wash the affected area can treat sores, swelling, and toxic reactions, urticaria, and eczema.

Euphorbia

Euphorbia is usually propagated by cuttings. From April to early September, cut healthy growing branches as cuttings. The newly cut stem segments will exude white latex from the wound; dip them in plant ash or charcoal powder to stop the latex from flowing out, then place them in a dry, cool place to air-dry for 3 to 4 days. After the cut surface has shrunk and dried, insert the cuttings. Euphorbia is not closely related to aquatic plants; during hydroponics, the principle of contamination-free cultivation must be strictly followed, and new nutrient solution must be replaced regularly to increase dissolved oxygen. The winter temperature must not be too low, otherwise it will drop leaves. The nutrient solution concentration must not be too high, nor should it be too shaded, otherwise it will revert to ancestral traits, and the Euphorbia will grow the columnar fleshy stems of the original species, affecting the ornamental effect; in severe cases it will cause root rot and death. The white sap of Euphorbiaceae plants is toxic. Especially avoid getting it into the eyes, and be careful not to let children accidentally get it into the mouth or eyes.

Brazilian wood

Brazilian wood has strong adaptability to light. In the north, it can be displayed continuously for ornamental purposes in a dim indoor room for more than a month, and in a bright indoor room it can be displayed for a long time. It likes high temperature, high humidity, and a well-ventilated environment. It prefers light and is also shade-tolerant, but fears blazing sun, avoids dryness and drought, and likes loose, well-drained sandy soil. The suitable growth temperature is 20°C to 28°C. Below 13°C in winter, cold damage should be prevented and leaves may dry up; the overwintering temperature is 5°C.

Brazilian wood is mostly propagated by cuttings. In the north, April to June is the best season. For large columnar Brazilian wood, the perennial stems themselves contain nutrients and water, and the latent buds on the stems have strong regenerative ability. For decorative needs, they can be sawed into stem segments of different lengths for planting, but the tail end of the stem segments should be sealed with paraffin to prevent water loss or infection by diseases, which is especially important in the dry season in the north. Or choose mature and robust stems (not lignified), cut off the leafy stem tip, cut the upper leaves in half, peel off the lower leaves to expose the stem nodes, each segment about 10 cm to 20 cm, and insert them into coarse sand, fine wood shavings, or humus soil 3 cm to 4 cm deep. Place the cutting bed in a semi-shaded environment, maintain high humidity, receive 50% to 60% sunlight, and keep the temperature at 25°C to 30°C; roots can form and sprouts can emerge in about 20 days to 30 days, then pot them. When stem segments are used as cuttings, rooting is slower, sometimes requiring 2 to 3 months before new buds and roots appear. Water cuttings and air layering can also be used, but they must be carried out at above 25°C. For water cutting propagation, insert the stem cutting with 1/3 submerged in water, change the water once every 3 to 5 days, and add a small amount of carbendazim aqueous solution for antisepsis and disinfection, which can promote faster rooting and sprouting.

Agave

Common varieties of agave include: golden-edged agave, golden-hearted agave, silver-edged agave, green-edged agave, and narrow-leaved agave, etc.

It is robust and likes sunlight, and is not shade-tolerant. It is slightly cold-tolerant and can be cultivated in the open field at temperatures above 5C. Adult agave leaves suffer only mild cold damage at a low temperature of -5C; at -13C the aboveground part freezes and rots, but the underground stem does not die and can sprout and develop leaves the next year and grow normally. It has strong drought resistance. It likes well-drained, fertile, and moist sandy loam. In its place of origin, it generally blooms only after several decades, and after blooming the mother plant dies; in the Nanjing area it does not bloom. Cross-pollination is required for seed set.

Agave can be hydroponically cultured throughout the year in a heated environment. During hydroponics, all its roots need to be removed, disinfected with a disinfectant solution, and then soaked in rooting solution for a certain period. During hydroponics, be careful that cabbage caterpillars eat its leaves and heart, thereby losing commercial value and ornamental value. If insects are found, they can be caught manually, or insecticide can be used to kill them.

For hydroponic root-viewing plants, often take them to a place with good sunlight; do not leave them in a dark place for a long time, otherwise the leaves are likely to turn white and become thin, thereby losing ornamental value. In winter, pay attention to keeping them warm. During the day, place them by the window where there is sunlight. At night, if the room is not heated, put the glass bottle in plastic or a cardboard box. If the leaves turn yellow or droop listlessly, it may be cold damage; at this time, give it some warmth-preserving measures. Then place it far from doors and windows, and remember not to place it in a place facing north. When changing water in winter, use warm water at 12°C to 18°C. Agave has strong resistance; as long as management is paid attention to, it can overwinter safely.

Money tree

The money tree is a perennial evergreen shrub, native to the Malay Peninsula and the Nanyang Islands. In recent years, through cultivation and selection, it has widely entered urban and rural households in China. For home cultivation, according to its living habits of liking high temperature and high humidity and not being tolerant of frost, cold, or dryness, focus on grasping the following four points:

First, pay attention to sunlight. The money tree likes high temperature, humidity, and sunlight, and cannot be shaded for a long time. Therefore, during maintenance and management, place it in a sunny place indoors. When placing it, the leaf surface must face the sunlight. Otherwise, because the leaves are phototropic, the entire branches and leaves will become distorted. In addition, every 3 to 5 days, spray water on the leaves with a spray bottle; this not only benefits photosynthesis but also makes the branches and leaves look more attractive.

Hydroponic method for periwinkle

Apocynaceae, Catharanthus genus, also known as five-petal plum.

Biological characteristics: Periwinkle is native to eastern Africa. It likes a warm, slightly dry, and sunny environment. The suitable growth temperature from March to July is 18-24°C, and from September to March of the following year it is 13-18°C. The winter temperature should not be lower than 10°C.

Periwinkle dislikes moisture and fears waterlogging, so the pot soil should not be watered too much; excessive moisture affects growth and development. Especially for plants overwintering indoors, watering should be strictly controlled, and it is better to keep them dry, otherwise they are very likely to suffer cold damage. For open-field cultivation, during heavy summer rain, pay attention to timely drainage to avoid waterlogging causing the whole patch to die.

Periwinkle is a light-loving plant. During the growing period there must be sufficient sunlight; then the leaves are dark green and glossy, and the flower colors are vivid. If it grows in shade for a long time, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

It is suitable for fertile and well-drained loam, and is tolerant of poor soil, but must not be slightly alkaline. Compacted clay soil with poor aeration results in poor plant growth, yellow leaves, and no flowering.

Propagation methods: Commonly by sowing, cuttings, and propagation.

Cultivation management: When seedlings have 3 pairs of true leaves, transplant them into 10 cm pots, 3 plants per pot. When seedlings are 7-8 cm tall, pinch once, and pinch 2 more times afterward, to promote more branching and more flowering. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, or use 15-15-30 "Huiyou" special fertilizer for pot flowers. For potted plants or flower beds, plant out of pots, flowering from late May to early November, lasting more than 5 months. During the flowering period, remove faded flowers at any time to prevent them from becoming moldy and affecting plant growth and ornamental value. August to October is the seed collection period for periwinkle; collect as they ripen to avoid seed loss.

Pest and disease control: Leaf rot, rust, and root-knot nematodes are common. For leaf rot, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder 500 times solution. For rust, spray with 50% carboxin wettable powder 2000 times solution. For root-knot nematodes, spray with 80% dibromochloropropane emulsifiable concentrate 50 times solution for control.

Hydroponic method for Euphorbia tirucalli

Euphorbiaceae, Euphorbia genus, also known as triangular spurge. Native to South Africa.

Characteristics

Euphorbia tirucalli is a perennial succulent plant. The stems are upright, 3-4 angled, dark green, with irregular beautiful gray-green markings in the center of the stem. The edges of the angles have tooth-like protrusions, and obovate leaves grow at the protrusions. There are many branches, all vertical and upward, forming a unique plant shape. The whole plant contains irritating latex. Euphorbia tirucalli has a peculiar shape and is rich in exotic flavor, making it an excellent choice for tabletop greening decoration.

Habits

Euphorbia tirucalli likes semi-shade but requires sufficient scattered light. It can tolerate a low temperature of 5 degrees. Euphorbia tirucalli likes dryness and avoids prolonged moisture, yet it is very suitable for hydroponic conditions.

Propagation

Euphorbia tirucalli is usually propagated by cuttings. From May to September, take branches about 10 cm from the mother plant as cuttings. The cut cuttings should not be inserted immediately; inserting immediately will cause the cut to rot and lead to cutting failure. The cut of Euphorbia tirucalli exudes latex. When cutting, dip it in plant ash or carbon powder, and air-dry it in a cool place for several days. After the cut is fully dry, insert the cutting; it roots very easily.

Key points for hydroponic maintenance

1: If scale insects occur, besides moving it to a ventilated and well-lit place, you can brush off the scale insects with a toothbrush and then spray 250 times laundry detergent solution to kill them.

2: The white milky liquid in the stems of Euphorbia tirucalli is toxic. Especially be careful not to get it into the eyes.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Cuttings and root washing. The cut branches should first be air-dried in a cool, ventilated place for several days. After the cut is dry, insert them into water, otherwise they will rot. New roots can grow after one month.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Selection of cyclamen and container: choose 1-year-old to 3-year-old cyclamen plants that are free of pests and diseases, growing vigorously, and about to bloom. It is best to use soilless culture substrates such as perlite, vermiculite, and wood shavings; after a change of environment, they do not damage roots, do not need slowing down, and adapt quickly. The water culture container is simple and economical, and in daily life it can serve to reuse waste. Any container that can hold water, such as a fish tank, teacup, beverage box, wine bottle, or vase, is acceptable; a transparent container is best, as roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits can all be fully viewed. No matter what container is used, its size, height, color, etc. must be coordinated with the cyclamen plant, so that the hydroponic cyclamen can show its exquisite, crystal-clear, and elegant charm.

Water culture time and method: The flowering period of cyclamen is generally from October to June of the following year, so the water culture time is generally from September to April of the following year. Remove the selected cyclamen plant from the pot, wash the substrate adhering to the root system with 20°C warm water, and be careful not to damage the roots. Then place it directly into a pre-prepared container. The water depth should be level with the root zone, and at the deepest must not exceed 1/3 of the bulb, to avoid bulb rot. Finally, place it in a suitable indoor position, add water regularly, and add nutrient solution. After two to three months of water culture, after the flowers fade, take out the plant and plant it in a cultivation substrate to spend the summer.

Water quality and water temperature: The water used for hydroponic cyclamen is best mountain spring water or magnetized water, with clean water quality, not turbid, without sediment, and containing various trace elements necessary for plants. During the entire water culture period, there is no need to change the water. Tap water contains chlorine, which is unfavorable for flower growth, and it is also easily turbid and prone to sediment, requiring water changes every few days, so it should be avoided as much as possible. The water temperature should be close to the indoor temperature at the time, generally 10°C to 20°C.

; Light and indoor temperature: Cyclamen likes a sunny environment. The water culture container should be placed on a desktop or windowsill with ample indoor sunlight, and should not be placed directly on a radiator. The most suitable indoor temperature is 15°C to 20°C; the maximum should not exceed 25°C, and the minimum should not be lower than 10°C. Adding nutrient solution: During the flowering period, hydroponic cyclamen also needs regular nutrient supplementation. Generally, every 10 days add 50 milliliters per plant of 1:100 flowering plant nutrient solution. Mountain spring water should also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. If yellow leaves, small leaves, small flowers, etc. are found, after ruling out root rot, an appropriate additional amount of nutrient solution may be added.

Complete collection of hydroponic methods for 30 kinds of flowers

Complete collection of hydroponic methods for 30 kinds of flowers

Agave

1. Use the root-washing method or division method to convert established plants to hydroponics. Old roots also adapt to the hydroponic environment and generally do not rot. New roots grow in water in about 7 days. Suitable for low-concentration nutrient culture.

2. The crown of the umbrella plant is relatively large and compact, so it is not appropriate to plant too many stems in hydroponics; too dense affects ventilation and light transmission and also appears cluttered and disorderly. Sparser planting looks more natural; 7-9 stems are enough.

3. To prevent lodging, a deep container should be used for planting.

4. The leaf surface of the umbrella plant has well-developed stomata and a very large number, with vigorous transpiration, so the naturally consumed solution needs to be replenished in time. It is a plant that is relatively easy to hydroponically culture.

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Peace lily

1. For plants formed by hydroponics using the division method or root-washing method, the original root system can quickly adapt to hydroponic conditions and generally will not develop root rot. New roots can sprout in 7-10 days, and in a short time you can enjoy the flowers, leaves, and roots! 2. The peace lily has a well-developed root system, white as jade, and cultivation in a relatively highly transparent container gives a better ornamental effect.

3. The peace lily is relatively shade-tolerant; hydroponic plants can also bloom in a semi-shaded indoor place.

4. When converting from soil culture to hydroponics in summer, some old leaves will initially turn yellow; remove them promptly and change the water every day. After one week, reduce the frequency of water changes.

Coleus

1. For hydroponic coleus, it is best to cut a stem segment with 5-8 leaves from the plant and insert it into water. At a water temperature of 15-28 degrees, roots can generally sprout in 10-15 days, and then it can be placed in an exquisite vase. The leaves of coleus are gorgeous, making it a good decorative flower. But note that too much fertilizer should not be added during hydroponics, to avoid the leaves turning green!

2. To keep the leaves vivid, it needs to be placed in a brightly lit place. With insufficient light, the leaf color will become dull and lose its luster.

3. Use pinching to control height and promote branching, preventing it from producing inflorescences and keeping the plant full.

Lucky bamboo

1. One of the most suitable flowers for hydroponics, widely planted in countless households. Propagated by water cuttings, it roots very easily, and maintenance and management are relatively extensive. At a temperature of 18-28 degrees, it remains in a growing state throughout the year.

2. For established plants hydroponically cultured by the root-washing method, you can see that the original soil-cultured root system is orange-red, but during hydroponics the roots that grow out are indeed milky white; the red and white contrast is very beautiful. Lucky bamboo is elegant and fresh, evergreen all year round, and carries the meaning of bamboo bringing peace and wealth and good fortune, and is deeply loved by people.

Alocasia

1. Cultivating with small seedlings sprouting from the plant makes survival easiest. In the early stage of hydroponics, pay attention to changing the water and washing the roots every day. Alocasia is one of the fastest-rooting flowers among hydroponic flowers. New water roots can grow in about 7-10 days.

2. The sap in the stems and leaves of Alocasia is toxic. Contact with the skin will cause itching and redness and swelling; wash promptly with clean water, and be careful not to get it into the mouth.

3. Alocasia has a unique posture and beautiful leaf shape, making it an excellent decoration for a desk!

Pothos

1. Pothos is very suitable for hydroponic cultivation. Both water cuttings and the root-washing method easily obtain ideal cultivated plants. Under hydroponic conditions, new roots can sprout in about 15-20 days.

2. Put the aerial roots into the water as well; aerial roots can also play the role of nutrient roots, absorbing water and nutrients.

3. During the growing period, dilute special hydroponic fertilizer and spray it on the leaves, which will make the leaves more gorgeous.

4. The branches and vines of pothos are soft and elegant, with mottled leaf colors. Small plants can also be planted in wall-mounted containers, letting them slant and hang down like a green decorative curtain, fresh and elegant.

Snake plant

1. For household hydroponic planting of snake plants, it is best to choose the golden-edged snake plant with yellow leaf margins, as its ornamental value for hydroponic planting is greater. At a water temperature of 20 degrees, new roots sprout in about 10-15 days.

2. The snake plant's root system is sparse and should not be pruned. The snake plant has beautiful leaf color, and its arrow-like leaf shape is upright and upward, full of noble temperament. It has strong adaptability and can be used for greening decoration in living rooms, studies, and even dim places.

Parlor palm

1. Choose small and medium-sized soil-cultured plants and convert them to hydroponics by the root-washing method.

2. The parlor palm's root system is fine and underdeveloped, and new roots sprout slowly in a hydroponic environment, but old roots remain firm and are not easy to rot. Generally, the root system is not pruned.

Bamboo palm

1. For household hydroponics, it is best to select small and medium-sized plants and plant them by the root-washing method.

2. It is better to keep them sparse rather than dense; cultivating 2-3 stems per vessel is enough to bring out their elegant, serene character.

3. The roots of the broadleaf lady palm are dense and elastic, adapting quickly to a hydroponic environment. However, during hydroponic cultivation, new roots are not easy to sprout, and may even fail to grow for several months, yet this does not hinder its growth.

Spider Plant

1. For hydroponic spider plants, it is best to choose plantlets grown on runners [stolons] and use their aerial roots for planting, because the aerial roots on the runners are very well suited to a hydroponic environment and are easy to manage. Roots can sprout in about 5 days of water culture.

2. When using the root-washing method or division method for hydroponic spider plants, the original thick fleshy roots will rot, so the water must be changed daily, the roots rinsed, and the rotten roots removed. After about 25-30 days, new roots can grow from the root crown area, and the old roots gradually adapt to the hydroponic environment and stop rotting. At this point, nutrient solution can be used for cultivation.

3. For hydroponic spider plants, it is best to choose green-leaved varieties; the variegated spider plant is more difficult to manage.

Liking is a light love, love is a deep liking! ^_^

Green Emperor

1. When propagating by water cuttings, it is best to cut the upper stem sections and insert the aerial roots together into the water; new roots sprout in about 10-15 days.

2. For household hydroponic Green Emperor, small plants are best; mist the plant surface frequently to keep the leaves fresh.

3. Green Emperor has thick stems; taking advantage of this trait for upright cultivation gives a better ornamental effect. Provide appropriate indirect light.

Philodendron selloum

1. For hydroponic Philodendron selloum, also choose small seedlings and use the root-washing method.

2. Mist the leaves frequently and wipe dust off the leaf surface with a damp cloth to keep the leaves fresh.

3. Philodendron selloum has a distinctive leaf shape and is an excellent choice for home decoration.

Chinese Evergreen

1. Cut off an appropriately long upper stem section, wash off the bleeding sap, and plant it by the water-cutting method. At a water temperature of 25 degrees, roots can form in about 20 days. 2. Using the root-washing method to convert an established soil-grown plant to hydroponics generally does not cause root rot. However, it should be planted with a low-concentration nutrient solution. 3. Growing Chinese Evergreen in water has a long history in China. In the Guangdong area, cultivating it in glass bottles of water is quite common. Water culture is convenient, clean and hygienic. It has a distinctive charm.

Monstera

1. Monstera is very well suited to hydroponic cultivation; year-round, soil-grown plants can be converted to hydroponics using the root-washing method.

2. Propagation by the water-cutting method. Keep the intact aerial roots on the stem sections and insert the aerial roots together into the water; the aerial roots can transform into nutrient roots and also serve to support the plant.

3. Monstera has large leaves and thick stems; for hydroponics, choose thick, sturdy vessels to prevent lodging.

4. Regularly mist the leaves with a fine-nozzle spray bottle to increase ambient humidity, which benefits plant growth.

Arrowhead Plant

1. Using the root-washing method to plant established plants is not restricted by season; water-cutting cultivation can also be done year-round as long as the plant has aerial roots.

2. It is easy to manage and grows quickly, so the plants should be renewed frequently. Cut off the top stem sections of overgrown plants and cultivate them separately; new roots sprout in about 10 days. Axillary buds on the old stems will also sprout quickly.

3. For hydroponic arrowhead plants, it is best to choose small plants of the vividly colored white butterfly arrowhead plant, pink butterfly arrowhead plant, and silver-leaf arrowhead plant for upright cultivation, because their leaf colors are vivid and their shapes resemble butterflies, giving them considerable ornamental value.

Earth Star

After flowering, offsets can be used for water culture. When separating the offsets, they should not be too small; they can be twisted off by hand, the base trimmed flat, and several leaves near the base peeled off, then placed in a container so that they touch the water surface. In a shaded environment at 20°C, they will root in 2-3 weeks. Potted plants can also be washed free of soil and then hydroponically grown, but rooting is slower, taking about a month or more and producing fewer roots. The nutrient solution pH should be between pH4-5. Earth Star is small and compact with bright colors, making it an excellent desktop display.

Tulip

For hydroponic tulips, varieties should be chosen according to the desired flowering period, so as to ensure the tulips' vividness and beauty. Next is temperature control. From bulb sprouting to flowering, there are 3 management stages: the sprouting stage, the vegetative growth stage, and the flowering stage.

1. Sprouting stage management: Fill the pot containing the bulbs with water (ordinary household water is fine) so that the roots of the bulbs are immersed in the water. Place the pot indoors in a bright spot (best on a windowsill), keep the room temperature at 13t, and do not let the temperature fluctuate too much. Roots and shoots will appear in 4-7 days, thus entering the vegetative growth stage. Change the water every three days, and once a week after buds appear. The relationship between the number of days after planting the bulbs and the number of sprouts is as follows:

Days after bulb planting 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Number of sprouts 0 0 0 15 28 39 48

2. Vegetative growth stage management: During this period, as the growth amount and growth rate of roots, stems, and leaves increase, a large amount of water is needed. Keep the water level in the pot so that the roots remain immersed in water. Keep the growing temperature at 15°C-18°C; the temperature must not be too high, otherwise the plant will grow leggy, with thin, long stems that detract from its appearance. Because plants are phototropic, turn the pot frequently so the stems grow upright rather than leaning. After 2-3 weeks of growth, when the number of leaves reaches 3-4, an oval flower bud will appear at the stem tip, and from then on it enters the flowering stage.

3. Flowering stage management: After buds appear, the temperature can still be kept at 15°C-18°C. After 5-7 days, the buds gradually open and the flowers show vivid colors. After the flowers open, the pot can be moved to a cool indoor spot to prolong the flowering period; generally the flowers can remain open for 2-3 weeks.

Hoya bella with exposed roots

Hoya bella has fragrant flowers, beautiful color, and a long flowering period, making it good material for flower arrangements.

Hoya bella has traditionally been soil-grown. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following features: 1) labor-saving; 2) hygienic; 3) few pests and diseases; 4) simple management; 5) long flowering period; 6) you can view the roots, leaves, and flowers.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-grown Hoya bella, wash it clean with water, cut off dead leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a drainage hole), place a few attractive river stones at the bottom, move the treated Hoya bella seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the roots, add clean water and flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool spot.

(3) Management: One, spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Two, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Three, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya bella, half a milliliter each time, and then once a month thereafter, to promote growth, flowering, and extend the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, and add nutrient solution injection, and it can bloom again.

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Hydroponic method for winter jasmine

1. Water-cutting time: Water cuttings can be done year-round. In winter, the container for water cuttings can be placed indoors in a sunny spot; in summer, pay attention to shading to prevent scorching sunlight. During water cuttings, the water temperature should be kept at 15°C to 20°C; cuttings root quickly and have a high survival rate.

2. Cuttings for water cutting: Choose vigorous current-year branches with plump buds as cuttings. The cuttings are generally 8 cm to 12 cm long and can retain 2 to 4 nodes. Cut about 2 mm below the lowest node; bind every 10 together. If there are too many leaves on the upper half of the cutting, remove some appropriately to encourage rooting.

3. Container for water cutting: Use a basin with a larger mouth or a shallow wide-mouthed bottle, etc. It must be washed clean before use.

4. Water-cutting method: Fill the container with clean rainwater, river water, or tap water to a depth of 8 cm to 10 cm, then place the bound cuttings in rows into the water to a depth of 4 cm to 6 cm, and then place the container outdoors in a ventilated, semi-shaded spot. The water quality must be kept fresh and clean, and the water can be changed every 3 to 5 days. Generally, after about 20 days, tumor-like callus tissue forms, and in 35 to 40 days, fibrous roots grow.

5. Timely planting: When the fibrous roots grow to 3 cm to 5 cm, they must be planted in time. Be careful during handling not to damage the roots. Generally, after planting, shade them for about 10 days, and then normal management can begin.

Clivia

Container selection

To grow Clivia hydroponically, the first thing is to choose a good container. Generally, a transparent glass container is best. If growing one seedling, a glass jar is enough. If growing many in water, you can use thin wire to make a metal mesh with 1 cm openings, and make a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh; or use a goldfish tank instead. Then place the metal mesh over the hydroponic box and insert the Clivia seedlings through the mesh into the nutrient solution. The depth of the roots in the nutrient solution should not exceed the pseudobulb at the base of the roots.

Nutrient solution preparation

Nutrient solutions are divided into inorganic and organic types. The inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: calcium 1.5 g, ferrous sulfate 0.01 g, urea g, monopotassium phosphate 1 g, magnesium sulfate 0.5 g. After these 5 inorganic salts are all assembled, dissolve them in 1000 g of water and it is ready to use. The organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: 100 g of roasted hemp seed meal, 100 g of bone meal (made from unsalted fresh bones), 150 g of soybean cake meal, 50 g of roasted sesame meal, then dissolve in 1000 g of water. Comparing the two nutrient solutions above, organic fertilizer has richer ingredients, but its nutrient content is not high; inorganic fertilizer has relatively simple ingredients, but has strong fertilizer effect and quick results. To make up for each other's shortcomings, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, apply inorganic fertilizer once a week and organic fertilizer once every 5 days.

Water used

For hydroponic Clivia, tap water cannot be used directly; it must be "aged" water. So-called "aged" water means putting tap water in a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3-5 days, so that chlorides such as bleaching powder that are harmful to Clivia roots settle out. In "aged" water, from its appearance, the sediment changes from strips to clumps, and the water color is best when green. After the water is properly "aged," when submerging the roots, the pseudobulb must not be submerged. If the water level is too shallow, Clivia cannot get a sufficient water supply; if the water level is too deep (submerging the pseudobulb), it will cause root rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality. If the roots are found to be somewhat yellow or black, it indicates that the water is both low in oxygen and low in nutrients, and the water must be changed immediately.

Air, sunlight, temperature

Whether the aeration of the roots of hydroponic Clivia can be handled well is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. After a period of cultivation, a layer of algae grows on the roots of hydroponic Clivia. When the algae is too thick, it seriously affects root respiration and corrodes the nutrient solution. At this time, use a soft, clean brush to gently brush off the algae layer on the roots (it does not need to be brushed very clean, because a small amount of algae on the roots has little effect). In addition, frequently check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The method of checking is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim freely in the water, it means the water is not low in oxygen; if the small fish always float to the surface with their mouths and gills exposed to breathe, it means the water is low in oxygen. After discovering low oxygen in the water, oxygen must be replenished. There are two methods: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight handling, Clivia is a semi-shade, semi-sun plant, so pay attention to light. Especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive diffused light. In addition, according to the light-facing characteristics of Clivia leaves, pay attention to making the leaves receive light evenly; otherwise the leaves will be of uneven length and the growth direction will also be staggered front and back. Generally, adjust the light angle once every two or three days. In terms of temperature handling, the environmental temperature for adult Clivia is best at 11°C-25°C; seedlings can be slightly higher, 20°C-35°C is fine. When growing Clivia in water, master the day-night temperature difference. In winter, keep it around 20°C during the day and not lower than 15°C at night.

Chinese Rose

After the Chinese rose flowers fade, cut off the spent flowers and let the flowering branch grow for several days, until the first axillary bud on the flowering branch grows thicker and sturdier and accumulates nutrients. Then cut a 3-node cutting, remove the leaf stalk at the bottom layer, use a sharp blade to cut the back side of the bottom bud into a slant, and immediately insert it into a prepared bottle full of clean water. The cutting can be inserted one-third into the water. To reduce water evaporation from the leaves, some leaves can be cut off. In dark conditions, new roots form more easily at the cut, so use a brown bottle. If there is no brown one, wrap the bottle with a layer of black plastic film. Place the bottle on a south-facing windowsill, but do not expose it to direct sunlight.

When the temperature is relatively high, change the water once a week. At a temperature of 15-25°C, roots can grow in only about 20 days. When the young roots grow to 1-2 cm long, they can be transplanted into a pot. Because the young roots grew in water, to help them adapt to the environment, water once a day at the beginning of transplanting, then gradually reduce. After shading for one week, they can receive sunlight in the morning and evening and will survive.

The advantages of the water-cutting method are: the method is simple, the survival rate is high, it is not restricted by time, and cuttings can be taken after the flowers fade.

Azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. The soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, making it a cultivation method worthy of vigorous promotion.

1. Substrate preparation

Azalea roots are very fine, requiring a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it multiple times with clean water, and after air-drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used for potting.

2. Nutrient solution preparation

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growth period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macronutrients: Add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g of disodium EDTA, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the stock solution. When using, add 1 milliliter of trace element stock solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the watering amount is generally greater than for soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is exactly the period of bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, and fertilizer demand is relatively high, so water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds break, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, water demand is high; in addition to daily watering, sprinkle water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, fertilizer demand is also high, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and benefit flower bud differentiation. After the hottest summer period begins, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and sprinkle water on the leaves; fertilizer application can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cool arrives, gradually increase the fertilizer amount, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times, to promote robust flower bud growth. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately depending on how dry or wet the substrate is. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic hyacinth

Hyacinth is a plant of the Liliaceae family and is also a bulbous flower. The hyacinth inflorescence is full, the colors are diverse, and the roots are pure white.

Key points for hydroponics:

(1) Choose a container whose mouth can hold the bulb, preferably a gourd-shaped container that is small at the top and large at the bottom, with transparent glass being better. Some household utensils such as tall-stemmed wine glasses and wine bottles can also be used, as can wide-mouthed containers.

(2) The water temperature should not be high; below 15°C is better.

(3) Place the bulb on the bottle neck. After roots develop, the water level can be lowered until the roots just touch the water surface. This allows the roots to fully absorb oxygen and promotes root growth. After the roots develop, cover the culture container with black cloth to let the bulb develop further.

(4) In winter, move the container to a place with sufficient sunlight to encourage larger, stronger flowers.

(5) Several hyacinth plants can also be planted in a fish tank, with sand as the substrate, supplemented with shade-loving ferns, forming a small scene full of wild charm, which is also very unique.

African Daisy

A perennial herb of the Asteraceae family, with relatively large flower diameter, rich flower colors, and blooming year-round. It likes a warm, sunny, and well-ventilated environment. It is a semi-cold-tolerant flower and likes fertile, loose soil. African Daisy is a very good cut flower variety, lasting a long time in water, with high ornamental value, and it is also good at absorbing formaldehyde.

Growing these plants in water generally requires no special management. Any container with a certain volume for roots to spread can be used, and glass containers with open mouths are more beneficial for maintaining water quality and root growth. When planting, avoid letting leaves sink into the water to prevent rot; place them under suitable light conditions and they will root quickly; add water when it runs low to prevent the roots from drying out; when the water becomes turbid, take out the plant, clean the container, and refill with water. Generally, for hydroponic plants, change the water once every three days and apply nutrient solution once; the ratio and amount of nutrient solution depend on the size of the plant.

Asparagus Fern

Aliases: cloud bamboo, flat grass

Family and genus: Liliaceae, Asparagus genus

Morphological characteristics: The asparagus fern has an elegant plant shape, with slender and beautiful leaf-like branches shaped like cloud flakes, resembling bamboo but not bamboo, with a clear, free and easy posture. Its hydroponic roots are fleshy and pure white. Paired with a scenic transparent container, it is both dignified and beautiful, and also appears noble and elegant, making it an excellent choice in hydroponics.

Growth habits: Likes warm, humid, and semi-humid environments, suitable temperature 15-25°C, minimum winter temperature not lower than 5°C, likes diffused light, avoids direct strong light, and avoids dry air.

Key points for hydroponics:

1) Material selection: Choose a soil-grown plant with a good plant shape and vigorous growth, wash off the soil and cut off rotten roots, then plant it in a hydroponic container, adding clean water up to one-third to one-half of the roots.

2) Maintenance: At first, change the clean water once every 2-3 days and promptly remove rotten roots. After two weeks, the roots basically adapt to the environment and have already grown hydroponic roots. After that, change the clean water once every 5-6 days. When the plant shows strong growth vigor, switch to nutrient solution culture. The nutrient solution should be shallow rather than deep. In summer, replenish it about once every 10 days. When the sediment in the nutrient solution increases, replace the nutrient solution; generally replace it once every 1-2 months. In summer, avoid direct strong light; in winter, place it in a warm place with relatively strong light.

Keep the room temperature above 5°C. When the air is dry, frequently mist the leaves to maintain relatively high air humidity and keep the branches and leaves clean.

Ivy (Hedera helix)

Alias: English ivy

Family and genus: Araliaceae, Hedera genus

Because it has dense vines and leaves, it is the most ideal material for vertical greening of indoor and outdoor wall surfaces, and it is also an excellent ground cover plant. It is suitable to let it climb on buildings, walls, steep slopes, rock faces, and ground under tree shade, and the demand for potted plants is increasing day by day.

(1) Morphological characteristics and varieties

An evergreen climbing vine, with slender and soft branches and vines, bearing aerial roots. The vine tips grow in a spiral shape and can climb onto other objects. Leaves alternate, leathery, dark green, with long stalks. Leaves on vegetative branches are triangular-ovate, entire or with 3 shallow lobes; leaves on flowering branches are ovate to rhombic. Racemose inflorescence, small spherical flowers, light yellow. Drupe spherical, black.

Commonly cultivated plants in the same genus include Chinese ivy (H. nepalensis var. sinensis), Japanese ivy, variegated ivy (CV. discolor), golden heart ivy, silver-edged ivy (CV. silver queen), etc.

(2) Ecological habits

Ivy is a typical shade-loving vine, but it can also grow in full-light environments. It grows well under warm, humid climatic conditions and is not cold-tolerant. It is not strict about soil, liking moist, loose, fertile soil, and is not salt-alkali tolerant.

(3) Propagation methods

The nodes of ivy can naturally root in humid air, and after touching the ground they will naturally enter the soil, so cutting propagation is mostly used. Use vegetative branches as cuttings. After cutting, shade promptly, keep air humidity high, and do not let the bed soil be too wet. Roots form in about 20 days. (4) Cultivation techniques

Ivy cultivation and management are simple and extensive, but it needs to be planted in a place with moist soil and air circulation. Transplanting can be done in early autumn or late spring. After planting, pruning is needed to promote branching. In the south, it is often planted in shaded spots in gardens, letting it naturally creep on the ground or on rockeries. In the north, it is mostly potted. Potted plants can be tied to various supports and trained into shape. In summer, maintain them under a shade shed and water less, otherwise stem rot is likely to occur. If this disease occurs, separate diseased plants from healthy ones, and alternately spray carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl. In winter, put them in a greenhouse to overwinter; indoor air humidity should be maintained and not too dry, but the pot soil should not be too wet. Hydroponic ivy can use whole plants or cuttings, preferably in spring and autumn. After the roots grow out in the cutting bed, they can be placed in a planting basket for root induction and transformation. Once well cultivated, ivy is very easy to maintain and also clean and hygienic, making it an excellent item for display at home. For well-cultivated plants, a general-purpose nutrient solution from the market can be used, or a nutrient solution for foliage plants. The nutrient solution concentration is generally 1/4 of the original formula.

(4) Other effects

Ivy is not only a very good landscaping plant; the whole plant can also be used as medicine, with effects of dispelling wind, promoting diuresis, invigorating blood, and reducing swelling. It mainly treats rheumatic joint pain, waist pain, and traumatic injuries. Crush it to extract the juice or decoct it with water to wash the affected area, which can treat sores, swelling, toxins, hives, eczema, etc.

Euphorbia

Euphorbia is usually propagated by cuttings. From April to early September, cut vigorous branches as cuttings. The wound of a newly cut stem segment will exude white milky sap; dip it in plant ash or charcoal powder to stop the sap from flowing out, then air-dry it in a dry, cool place for 3 to 4 days. After the cut shrinks, insert the cutting. Euphorbia is not closely related to aquatic plants. For hydroponics, the principle of contamination-free cultivation must be strictly followed, and new nutrient solution must be changed regularly to increase dissolved oxygen. In winter, the temperature must not be too low, otherwise it will drop leaves. The nutrient solution concentration must not be too high, nor should it be overly shaded, otherwise it will revert to ancestral traits, and Euphorbia will grow the columnar fleshy stems of the original Euphorbia species, affecting the ornamental effect; in severe cases, it causes root rot and death. The white milky sap of Euphorbiaceae plants is toxic. In particular, it must not enter the eyes. Be careful not to let children accidentally get it into their mouths or eyes.

Brazilian Ironwood

Brazilian Ironwood has strong adaptability to light. In the north, it can be displayed continuously for more than a month in a dim indoor room, and can be displayed long-term for viewing in a bright indoor room. It likes high temperature, high humidity, and a well-ventilated environment. It prefers light and is also shade-tolerant, but fears scorching sun and avoids dryness and drought. It likes loose, well-drained sandy soil. The suitable growth temperature is 20°C to 28°C. In winter, below 13°C, cold damage and dry leaves must be prevented; the overwintering temperature is 5°C.

Brazilian Ironwood is mostly propagated by cuttings. In the north, April to June is the best season. For large columnar Brazilian Ironwood, the perennial stem itself contains nutrients and water, and the latent buds on the stem have strong regenerative ability. For decorative needs, it can be sawed into stem segments of different lengths for planting, but the tail end of the stem segment should be sealed with paraffin to prevent water loss or disease infection, which is especially important in the dry season in the north. Or choose mature, vigorous stems (not lignified), cut off the leafy stem tip, cut the upper leaves in half, peel off the lower leaves to expose the stem nodes, with each segment about 10 cm to 20 cm, and insert them into coarse sand, fine wood shavings, or humus soil 3 cm to 4 cm deep. Place the cutting bed in a semi-shaded environment, maintain high humidity, receive 50% to 60% sunlight, at a temperature of 25°C to 30°C; roots and buds form in about 20 to 30 days, then pot them. When stem segments are used as cuttings, rooting is slower, sometimes requiring 2 to 3 months for new buds and roots. Water cuttings and air layering can also be used, but must be carried out at above 25°C. For water-cutting propagation, immerse 1/3 of the stem cutting in water, change the water once every 3 to 5 days, and add a small amount of carbendazim aqueous solution for antisepsis and disinfection, which can promote faster rooting and budding.

Agave

Common varieties of agave include: golden-edged agave, golden-hearted agave, silver-edged agave, green-edged agave, and narrow-leaved agave, etc.

It is robust, likes sunlight, and is not shade-tolerant. Slightly cold-tolerant, it can be cultivated in the open at temperatures above 5°C. Adult agave suffers only mild frost damage to the leaves at a low temperature of -5°C; at -13°C the aboveground parts freeze and rot, but the underground stem does not die and can sprout and grow leaves normally the following year. It has strong drought tolerance. It likes well-drained, fertile, and moist sandy loam. In its place of origin, it generally blooms only after several decades, and the mother plant dies after blooming; it does not bloom in the Nanjing area. Cross-pollination is required for seed set.

Agave can be hydroponically grown year-round in a heated environment. During hydroponics, all its roots need to be removed, disinfected with a disinfectant solution, and then soaked in rooting solution for a certain period. During hydroponics, be careful that cabbage caterpillars eat its leaves and heart, thereby losing commercial and ornamental value. If insects are found, they can be caught manually, or insecticide can be used to kill them.

For hydroponic root-viewing plants, frequently take them to a sunny place. Do not keep them in a dark place for a long time, as the leaves will easily turn white and become thin, thus losing ornamental value. In winter, pay attention to keeping them warm. During the day, place them by the window in a sunny spot. At night, if the room is unheated, put the glass bottle in plastic or a cardboard box. If the leaves turn yellow or droop listlessly, it may be cold damage; at this time, give it some warming measures. Then place it far from doors and windows, and be sure not to place it on the north side. When changing water in winter, use warm water of 12°C to 18°C. Agave has strong resistance; as long as you pay attention to management, it can overwinter safely.

Money Tree

Money Tree is a perennial evergreen shrub, native to the Malay Peninsula and the Nanyang Archipelago area. In recent years, through cultivation and selection, it has widely entered urban and rural households in China. For household cultivation, according to its living habits of liking high temperature and high humidity and not tolerating frost, cold, or dryness, focus on grasping the following four points:

First, pay attention to sunlight. Money Tree likes high temperature, humidity, and sunlight, and cannot be shaded for a long time. Therefore, during maintenance and management, it should be placed in a sunny indoor spot. When placing it, the leaf surface must face the sunlight. Otherwise, because the leaves are phototropic, the entire branches and leaves will twist. In addition, every 3 to 5 days, spray the leaves once with a spray bottle. This not only benefits photosynthesis but also makes the branches and leaves look more attractive.

Hydroponic Methods for Madagascar Periwinkle

Apocynaceae, Catharanthus genus, also known as five-petal plum.

Biological characteristics: Madagascar periwinkle is native to eastern Africa. It prefers a warm, slightly dry, and sunny environment. The optimal growth temperature is 18-24°C from March to July, and 13-18°C from September to March of the following year, with winter temperatures not lower than 10°C.

Madagascar periwinkle dislikes wet conditions and is afraid of waterlogging. Do not overwater the potted soil, as excessive moisture affects growth and development. Especially for plants overwintering indoors, watering should be strictly controlled, and it is better to keep them dry, otherwise they are very susceptible to frost damage. For open-field cultivation, during heavy summer rain showers, pay attention to timely drainage to avoid waterlogging that can cause the entire patch to die.

Madagascar periwinkle is a light-loving plant and must have sufficient sunlight during the growing period; then the leaves are dark green and glossy, and the flowers are brightly colored. If grown in shade for a long time, the leaves turn yellow and drop.

It prefers fertile and well-drained loam and tolerates poor soil, but must absolutely avoid alkaline soil. In compacted, poorly aerated clay soil, the result is poor plant growth, yellowing leaves, and no flowering.

Propagation methods: Commonly propagated by sowing, cuttings, and propagation.

Cultivation management: When seedlings have 3 pairs of true leaves, transplant them into 10 cm pots, with 3 plants per pot. When the seedlings are 7-8 cm tall, pinch once, and then pinch 2 more times afterward to encourage more branching and more flowering. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, or use 15-15-30 "Huiyou" special fertilizer for potted flowers. For potted plants or flower beds planted out of pots, flowering lasts from late May to early November, more than 5 months. During the flowering period, remove spent flowers at any time to prevent them from becoming moldy and affecting plant growth and ornamental value. August to October is the seed collection period for Madagascar periwinkle; seeds should be collected as they mature to avoid seed loss.

Pest and disease control: Leaf rot, rust, and root-knot nematode damage commonly occur. For leaf rot, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 500 times dilution. For rust, spray with 50% carboxin wettable powder at 2000 times dilution. For root-knot nematodes, spray with 80% dichloropropane emulsifiable concentrate at 50 times dilution for control.

Hydroponic Methods for Euphorbia tirucalli 'Rosea'

Euphorbiaceae, Euphorbia genus, also known as triangular milkbush. Native to South Africa.

Characteristics

Euphorbia tirucalli 'Rosea' is a perennial succulent plant. The stems are upright, 3-4 angled, dark green, with beautiful irregular gray-green markings in the center of the stem. The edges of the angles have tooth-like protrusions, and obovate leaves grow at the protrusions. It has many branches, all growing vertically upward, forming a unique plant shape. The whole plant contains irritating milky sap. With its strange shape and exotic flavor, Euphorbia tirucalli 'Rosea' is an excellent choice for tabletop greenery decoration.

Habits

Euphorbia tirucalli 'Rosea' prefers semi-shade but requires sufficient diffused light. It can tolerate low temperatures of 5°C. It likes dryness and avoids prolonged moisture, yet it is very suitable for hydroponic conditions.

Propagation

Euphorbia tirucalli 'Rosea' is usually propagated by cuttings. From May to September, take branches about 10 cm from the mother plant as cuttings for propagation. The cut cuttings should not be inserted immediately, as immediate insertion can cause the cut end to rot and lead to failure. The cut end of Euphorbia tirucalli 'Rosea' exudes milky sap; when cutting, dip it in plant ash or carbon powder, and dry it in a cool place for several days. After the cut end is fully dry, then insert it for propagation, and it roots very easily.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: If mealybugs occur, besides moving it to a ventilated and well-lit place, you can brush off the mealybugs with a toothbrush and then spray with 250 times diluted washing powder solution to kill them.

2: The white latex in the stems of Euphorbia tirucalli 'Rosea' is toxic. Especially be careful not to get it into the eyes.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Cuttings and root washing. The cut branches should first be dried in a cool, ventilated place for several days. After the cut end is dry, then insert them into water, otherwise they will rot. New roots can grow after one month.

Hydroponic Methods for Cyclamen

Select 1-year-old to 3-year-old cyclamen plants that are free of pests and diseases, growing vigorously, and in bud, preferably cultivated in soilless media such as perlite, vermiculite, or wood shavings, so they are not damaged at the roots after a change of environment, do not need to recover from transplanting, and adapt quickly. The hydroponic container is simple and economical, and in daily life it can serve to reuse waste. Any water-holding container such as a fish tank, teacup, beverage box, wine bottle, or vase can be used; transparent containers are best, as roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits can all be fully viewed. No matter what container is used, its size, height, color, and so on must be coordinated with the cyclamen plant, so as to display the exquisite, translucent, crystal-clear, and elegant charm of hydroponic cyclamen.

Hydroponic timing and method: The flowering period of cyclamen is generally from October to June of the following year, so the hydroponic period is generally from September to April of the following year. Remove the selected cyclamen plant from its pot, wash the medium adhering to the root system with 20°C warm water, and be careful not to damage the roots. Then place it directly into a previously prepared container, with the water level even with the root zone, and at most not exceeding 1/3 of the corm, to avoid corm rot. Finally, place it in a suitable indoor location, and regularly add water and nutrient solution. After two to three months of hydroponic culture, when the flowers fade, take out the plant and plant it in cultivation medium to spend the summer.

Water quality and water temperature: The water used for hydroponic cyclamen is best mountain spring water or magnetized water, with clean water quality, not turbid, no sediment, and containing various trace elements necessary for plants; during the entire hydroponic period, no water change is needed. Tap water contains chlorine, which is unfavorable for flower growth, and is also easily turbid and prone to sediment, so the water must be changed every few days; try not to use it. The water temperature should be close to the indoor temperature at the time, generally 10°C to 20°C.

; Light and indoor temperature: Cyclamen likes a sunny environment. The hydroponic container should be placed on an indoor tabletop or windowsill with ample sunlight, and not directly on a radiator. The most suitable indoor temperature is 15°C to 20°C, preferably not exceeding 25°C at the highest and not lower than 10°C at the lowest. Adding nutrient solution: During the flowering period, hydroponic cyclamen also needs regular nutrient supplementation. Generally, every 10 days add 50 ml per plant of 1:100 diluted flowering plant nutrient solution. Mountain spring water should also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. If yellow leaves, small leaves, small flowers, and so on are found, after ruling out root rot, an appropriate additional amount of nutrient solution may be added as needed.