Cultivation Methods and Cultural Management Techniques for Tree Peonies in Renqiu City, Hebei Province
How are tree peonies cultivated? Generally speaking, tree peonies are not suited to growing in saline-alkali areas, so many people in the saline-alkali regions of the north find it hard to appreciate the elegant and magnificent tree peony. However, many saline-alkali areas have now introduced and cultivated tree peonies. Let us learn together below about the cultivation techniques for tree peonies in the saline-alkali area of Renqiu, Hebei, and see how the results turn out.
I. Preparations Before Planting
Because tree peonies have the characteristic of "liking high, dry sites and disliking low, wet ones," the planting site chosen was higher than the ground, raised 0.3-0.5m above ground level, and sheltered from the wind with a sunny aspect. Such a site can effectively prevent salt from rising to the soil surface. The original soil at the planting site was loam, with a pH of 8.9 and a salt content of 0.25%. To create the best possible growing environment for the tree peonies, the technique of replacing the soil was used: the topsoil of the original soil was kept, while the subsoil from the lower half was dug up and hauled away, and plain sandy soil with a pH of 8.7 and a salt content of 0.05% was brought in. The original soil and the new soil were mixed thoroughly, then rotted and fermented horse manure was applied at 700kg/mu, along with appropriate amounts of carbofuran granules and sulfur powder, at rates of 8kg/mu and 30kg/mu respectively. The old soil, new soil, fertilizer and pesticide were mixed thoroughly, spread flat, and immediately given one thorough watering and left to dry. After that, it was deep-dug once every half month; generally, 3-4 deep diggings should be done before planting. During the drying process, care was taken not to let weeds grow, and checks were made for underground pests such as cutworms.
The tree peonies planted were introduced from Luoyang City, Henan Province, and Heze City, Shandong Province. After verifying the varieties, variety name tags were tied to the plants to avoid confusion. The plants were watered 4 days before digging so that more native soil could be retained on the roots during digging, and before digging all leaves were removed with sterilized scissors. During digging, the roots were dug as deeply as possible to reduce root damage. If roots were broken, the broken roots were cut off with scissors. After all plants were dug up, they were classified by variety for loading. Before loading, soil about 5cm thick was spread on the truck bed, then the plants were laid flat and stacked; after each layer, a 1000-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil was sprayed once. After all were loaded, a thin layer of soil was sprinkled on the surface, and then a tarpaulin was used for covering. Because temperatures were still high in mid-to-late September, the covering of the tarpaulin was checked frequently during transport to prevent it from being blown up by the wind, which would cause the tree peony roots to lose water and affect survival. During rest stops on the road, the tarpaulin should be opened appropriately for ventilation, but this should be done in a shaded place.
II. Planting Methods
1. Planting Time
Since ancient times in China there has been the saying "tree peonies in the seventh month, herbaceous peonies in the eighth month (lunar calendar)," so planting was chosen for late in the ninth lunar month.
When digging planting holes, the plant spacing was 80cm x 100cm, and the planting hole size was 50cm x 50cm x 40cm (length x width x depth). Rotted and fermented sesame paste residue was applied at the bottom of the holes (0.5kg per hole) and mixed thoroughly with the subsoil.
2. Planting
All tree peonies were placed into their designated planting holes according to the design requirements before planting. During planting, attention should be paid to "pressing three times and lifting once," that is, the soil in the hole should be pressed firm in three stages; after the second pressing, the seedling should be lifted gently once to help the roots spread out, and finally the surface soil should be pressed to make it firm. After planting, ridges should be formed into beds, and one thorough watering should be given immediately. After the surface soil is slightly dry, a small mound of soil should be piled around the base of the plant to help it overwinter safely.
III. Management After Planting
1. Water and Fertilizer Management
When watering tree peonies, one must master the two aspects of "fixed watering" and "non-fixed watering." "Fixed watering" refers to the early spring water, post-bloom water and wintering water. These three waterings must be given every year at relatively fixed times: the early spring water in early March, the post-bloom water about 15 days after the flowers fade, and the wintering water in mid-to-late November. These three waterings can be combined with fertilization and must be given generously and thoroughly. "Non-fixed watering" refers to watering done during routine care depending on soil moisture and weather conditions, with no fixed time. This kind of watering should follow the principle of "giving as needed" and should not be done mechanically. On rainy and cloudy days in summer, watering should be reduced or omitted, and after heavy rain, drainage should be carried out promptly to prevent root rot from excessive water. It should also be mentioned that during the blooming period, tree peonies should not be misted on the leaves, because when misting, water droplets can splash onto the flowers and cause them to fade prematurely.
In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting time, tree peonies can also be fertilized once each in early spring, half a month after blooming, and before the soil freezes each year. The fertilizer used should mainly be organic fertilizer. According to the author's experience, a fertilizer mixed from sesame paste residue, rotted chicken manure, rotted horse manure and ferrous sulfate powder works best; it not only keeps the plant's nutrition balanced but also effectively prevents soil alkalization and compaction. If the plants are clearly not growing vigorously, some nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer can also be applied, but the amount should not be too large, nor should it be applied too often. Fertilizer can be applied either in a ring or in holes. In addition, to promote flower bud differentiation, spraying the leaves with a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can also have a good effect.
2. Pest and Disease Control
In cultivating tree peonies, besides disinfecting and disinfesting the soil and plants when transplanting, from after leaf expansion in spring until leaf fall in autumn, a fungicide such as lime sulfur mixture, chlorothalonil, carbendazim or thiophanate-methyl should be sprayed once about every 20 days to prevent gray mold, leaf spot and southern blight. During the rainy season, spraying should be done in the early morning or late afternoon; if rain falls shortly after spraying, it should be re-sprayed promptly. During the growing period, tree peonies are prone to pests such as aphids, scale insects, red spider mites and cutworms. If they occur, insecticides such as omethoate can be sprayed to kill them, and cutworms can be controlled by burying carbofuran. After leaf fall in autumn, dead branches and fallen leaves should be gathered and burned to prevent pests and diseases.
3. Pruning Methods
In the first year after planting, all soil buds should first be cut off. Branches that will later be used as renewal branches or to correct the crown shape can be retained; this is the so-called "tree peony foot trimming." New lateral buds and lateral flower buds on flowering branches should also be thinned as appropriate, with only one flower bud retained per branch. If the terminal bud's flower bud is not as robust as a lateral bud's flower bud, the terminal bud's flower bud should be removed and the lateral bud's flower bud retained. After blooming, spent flowers should be cut off promptly to prevent seed formation and nutrient consumption. Because tree peonies have the growth habit of "growing one chi and receding eight cun," in autumn the non-lignified portions of the branches should be cut back short, retaining only the nodes with buds. Other useless branches that disrupt the tree shape should also be removed promptly.
4. Cultivation and Weeding
Cultivation should be carried out after each watering or natural rainfall. The depth of loosening the soil can follow the principle of "hoe deep when dry, hoe shallow when wet." As for weeding, no weeds at all must be allowed to grow in the tree peony planting area.
5. Wintering Management
Tree peonies are relatively cold-hardy. Before winter begins, they should be given a thorough wintering water. After the soil surface is slightly dry, soil should be piled into a small mound about 30cm high. In places with a lot of human activity, fencing should be set up to prevent man-made damage.
The above is all the content about tree peony cultivation. Friends in the north can learn more about it, and of course flower growers with more experience are also welcome to come and share their own techniques!
Cultivation and Management Techniques for Purple-leaf Sand Cherry
Purple-leaf sand cherry is a deciduous shrub in the genus Prunus of the rose family, a hybrid of purple-leaf plum and dwarf cherry, introduced to China from the United States in the 1990s. Because of its relatively short stature, compact crown, purple-red leaves and high ornamental value, purple-leaf sand cherry is very popular in landscaping. The author's workplace is located in Renqiu City, Hebei Province, a typical saline-alkali area. In 2002, purple-leaf sand cherry was introduced, and all have now survived and are growing well. Its key cultivation points are introduced below.
I. Selection of the planting site. Purple-leaf sand cherry is not demanding about soil and can grow normally in light clay, loam and plain sandy soil, growing best in sandy loam. Because purple-leaf sand cherry is a hybrid of purple-leaf plum and dwarf cherry, it has inherited some of purple-leaf plum's advantages and can tolerate mildly saline-alkali soil.
Purple-leaf sand cherry likes light; planted in insufficient light, its leaf color will turn green, so it should be planted in a spot with ample sunlight. Purple-leaf sand cherry likes a moist environment but does not tolerate standing water. It should be planted in a high, dry place and must not be planted in low-lying spots. No adverse reactions have been seen when planted in lawns, but note that lawn irrigation should use sprinkler irrigation.
II. Water and fertilizer management. Purple-leaf sand cherry is drought-tolerant. Each year in early spring and late autumn, the green-up water and wintering water can be given generously and thoroughly. At ordinary times, if it is not especially dry, it can basically grow relying on natural rainfall. In spring and autumn, when winds are strong and the weather is dry, after newly planted seedlings have expanded their leaves, foliar misting should be done once each in the morning and afternoon every day, which can supplement water, reduce pressure on the root system and increase the survival rate of the seedlings. On rainy days in summer, standing water in the tree pits should also be drained promptly to prevent the water temperature from rising after sunrise and scalding the roots.
Purple-leaf sand cherry likes fertilizer. In addition to base fertilizer applied at planting, newly planted seedlings should also be given appropriate topdressing during the growing period. Apply a nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer once each in early spring and early summer, and apply barnyard manure or sesame paste residue once more in late autumn. For newly planted seedlings and seedlings that are short of fertilizer and growing poorly, foliar feeding can be done at a concentration of 0.5%; choose early morning or late afternoon for spraying, and it should not be done at midday when light is strong, nor before or after rain. Spraying 3 times is appropriate, at intervals of 10 to 15 days.
III. Wintering management. Purple-leaf sand cherry is cold-hardy; for mature trees, the measure of whitewashing the trunk is sufficient. For newly planted seedlings, the methods of mounding soil around the base and wrapping the trunk with straw can be used, while young seedlings should be treated with plastic film covering. After newly planted seedlings are given trunk-wrapping treatment in the first year, whitewashing for overwintering can be used in the second year.
IV. Pest and disease control. During cultivation, purple-leaf sand cherry can be harmed by slug moths, aphids, red spider mites, leafhoppers and scale insects. When whitewashing each winter, try to whitewash both the main trunk and the large branches, and also scrape off insect eggs and cocoons clean. In early spring, broad-spectrum fungicides such as chlorothalonil and carbendazim should be sprayed promptly. If diseases occur, they should be treated promptly. Slug moths, aphids, leafhoppers and scale insects can be killed by spraying deltamethrin and the like, while red spider mites can be controlled with dicofol.
V. Shaping and pruning. Purple-leaf sand cherry tolerates pruning, and pruning should be handled differently according to the different plant forms. Common plant forms of purple-leaf sand cherry include the "broom type" and the "natural open-center type."
The "broom type" is generally used for block planting or as a hedge: for plants used as a hedge, the pruning height is generally about 0.6m-1.2m, and pruning can be done in late spring and early autumn each year to keep the hedge surface flat; branches protruding from the sides of the hedge should also be cut off. Pruning of seedlings for block-planting display is relatively extensive: cut out diseased and pest-infested branches, crossing branches, dead branches and inner-canopy branches, and thin out overly dense branches as appropriate to improve ventilation and light penetration.
Seedlings of the "natural open-center type" are generally used for opposite planting and row planting. Purple-leaf sand cherry is a shrub grown mainly for its foliage, so when pruning, as many branches as possible should be retained, some downward branches, crossing branches and competing branches should be thinned out, 3 to 4 inner-canopy branches should be retained, and current-year branches should be pinched when they reach about 40cm to promote lignification of the branches and the growth of more lateral branches.
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Cultivation Techniques for Herbaceous Peonies in the Saline-Alkali Areas of North China
The herbaceous peony is a traditional famous flower native to China, known by the elegant title "flower chancellor." It is mainly distributed in Northeast China, North China and the Gan and Shaan areas of the northwest, but because it does not tolerate salt and alkali, it is very difficult to grow in the saline-alkali areas of North China. Renqiu City, Hebei Province, is a typical saline-alkali soil area, and the author once trial-planted more than 1,000 herbaceous peonies here; all survived and grew vigorously, blooming every year. The successful experience gained during cultivation is introduced below for reference only.Selection of the planting site and soil treatment
Because herbaceous peonies tolerate drought and fear waterlogging, a higher site should be chosen for planting (0.3m to 1m above ground level). This has two advantages: first, it can avoid standing water, and second, it can effectively prevent salt from rising to the soil surface. The original soil at the planting site was clay loam, with a pH of 8.5 and a salt content of 0.15%. To create a better growing environment for them, we replaced the soil with sandy loam having a pH of 8.2 and a salt content of 0.05%, mixed in plain sandy soil at a 1:1 ratio, then applied rotted barnyard manure at 700 to 800 kilograms per mu, while also adding 45 kilograms of sulfur powder per mu. The role of sulfur powder is not only to lower the soil pH but also to disinfect the soil. The sandy loam, plain sandy soil, barnyard manure and sulfur powder need to be mixed thoroughly; after mixing, spread flat and sun-dry. After that, deep-dig once every 15 days; generally, three or four deep diggings are needed before planting. During the digging process, some carbofuran can be applied as appropriate to prevent the breeding of underground pests. In addition, during deep digging, care should also be taken to prevent weed growth.
Planting
Planting time. A flower saying goes: herbaceous peonies in the seventh month, tree peonies in the eighth month. But in Renqiu, the weather is still hot in the seventh lunar month, so we delayed planting by about 1.5 months and planted at the end of the eighth lunar month, with no adverse reactions seen.
Digging the planting holes. At planting, the plant spacing was 80cm x 90cm, and the planting hole size (length x width x depth) was 50cm x 50cm x 40cm. Dried chicken manure was applied at the bottom of the holes, 0.5 kilograms per plant, and mixed thoroughly with the subsoil.
Planting. During planting, attention should be paid to "pressing three times and lifting once." Immediately after planting, use sterilized scissors to cut back level. Immediately after cutting back, spray once with a 1000-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder for disinfection. Then form ridges into beds and water thoroughly once immediately. After the surface soil dries, pile soil into a mound to cover it, to help it overwinter safely.
Post-planting management
Watering. Watering herbaceous peonies should be done in accordance with their habit of "liking a slightly moist environment, tolerating drought, fearing waterlogging, and avoiding standing water." In daily management, the following points should be mastered: First, water well for the four essential waterings--the thawing water in early spring, the pre-bloom water at the end of April, the post-bloom water in mid-to-late May, and the wintering water in early November. These four waterings are given in combination with fertilization, are indispensable, and must be generous and thorough. Second, water according to weather conditions; generally, during the rainy season, watering should be reduced or omitted, but during prolonged drought, appropriate watering should still be given, and during the rainy season standing water should also be drained promptly to prevent root rot from excessive water. Third, watering during the blooming period is strictly forbidden; watering at flowering time will shorten the ornamental period and cause the flowers to fade prematurely. Fourth, try to avoid misting the leaves, as foliar misting will worsen brown spot disease and accelerate its spread.
Fertilizing. In fertilizing herbaceous peonies, in addition to applying an appropriate amount of base fertilizer at planting, topdressing should also be done regularly and in appropriate amounts each year. Fertilization is generally divided into 4 applications: the first after sprouting in early spring, the second before blooming, the third after blooming, and the fourth before winter begins. None of these four applications can be omitted. Fertilizing after sprouting is mainly to promote plant growth and benefit flower bud growth; this application is mainly nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer, and an appropriate amount of sesame paste residue can be mixed in. The purpose of the pre-bloom fertilizer is to promote flower bud enlargement, prolong the blooming period and make flower colors vivid; this application is mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. The purpose of the post-bloom fertilizer is to replenish the nutrients consumed by blooming, and a three-element compound fertilizer can also be used for this application. The last wintering fertilizer is mainly rotted and fermented barnyard manure, which can effectively raise soil temperature and help the plants overwinter. Generally, no fertilizer is applied in summer.
Cultivation and weeding. After each watering or rainfall, cultivation should be carried out promptly. Cultivation has four purposes: first, to prevent soil compaction and benefit root growth; second, to effectively reduce water evaporation and maintain good soil moisture; third, to increase soil permeability, benefit root respiration and soil microbial activity, and promote soil maturation; fourth, to effectively prevent salt from rising. The depth of loosening the soil should be 6 to 10cm, and the roots must not be damaged. Weeds are hosts and spreaders of many pests and diseases, and they also compete with herbaceous peonies for nutrients, so weeds in the herbaceous peony plot should be removed as much as possible, pulling them up whenever they appear.
Pruning. The content of pruning herbaceous peonies has three parts: first, removing lateral buds. The flower buds of herbaceous peonies are generally clustered, and the small outer buds should be removed promptly, retaining only the large central bud to concentrate nutrient use; this is what the flower saying calls "pinching the heads of herbaceous peonies." Second, spent flowers should be cut off promptly after blooming so they do not set seed and consume nutrients. Third, before overwintering, the above-ground leaves should be cut off to facilitate mounding soil for overwintering.
Pest and disease control. The main diseases harming herbaceous peonies are as follows.
1. Rust disease. This disease mainly harms the plant's leaves. In the early stage, there are small yellowish-brown granules on the underside of the leaves, and later round or oval gray spots gradually form. If it occurs, spray a 1:1:160 Bordeaux mixture for control, from mid-April to mid-May, once every ten days.
2. Red spot disease. This disease mainly harms the leaves and petals. In the early stage, light green round spots appear on the leaves, which gradually expand into irregular lesions, and finally the lesions join together, causing the entire leaf to turn brown. A 1000-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder can be sprayed once every 10 days starting from sprouting; 3 to 4 consecutive sprays can effectively prevent it.
3. Brown spot disease. This disease mainly infects the leaves. When it occurs, the round brown lesions on the leaves bear a black mold layer, after which the lesions can join into irregular large patches; in severe cases it can cause the leaves to die. When it occurs, spray a 800-fold dilution of 70% mancozeb wettable granules, 3 to 4 consecutive times, with an interval of 10 days each time.
4. Black spot disease. It mainly harms the leaves. In the early stage, the lesions on the leaves are dark brown, and later they gradually expand and perforate. If it occurs, a 800-fold dilution of 80% mancozeb wettable granules can be used for control.
5. Southern blight. This disease is very likely to occur in hot, humid summer weather. Its symptoms are white mycelium growing on the root crown. After blooming, spray a 800-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable granules once every 15 days; 4 to 5 consecutive sprays can effectively control the condition.
The main pests harming herbaceous peonies are: aphids, scale insects, red spider mites and the underground pest white grubs. If they occur, use pirimicarb to kill aphids, use methomyl to kill scale insects, use dicofol to kill red spider mites, and for white grubs, use 1 to 5 grams of 5% phoxim granules mixed with 25 times plain sandy soil, spread on the ground in the evening for control.
Other management. 1. For varieties with large flowers that tend to droop, set up supports before blooming to prevent the flowers from drooping. 2. Shading: provide shade during the blooming period to avoid direct strong light from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., which can effectively prolong the blooming period. 3. Wintering management: before winter begins, cut off the remaining stems; after watering thoroughly for freezing, mound soil promptly for overwintering, with the mound 25 to 30cm thick, and uncover the mound after sprouting the following spring.
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