Japanese anemone blooms from summer to autumn: a detailed guide to growing it
Japanese anemone, also called wild cotton, belongs to the buttercup family. It comes in purplish red, pink and white, with yellow anthers, and has a long flowering period, blooming from summer into autumn, usually from July to October
Japanese anemone, also called wild cotton, belongs to the buttercup family. It comes in purplish red, pink and white, with yellow anthers, and has a long flowering period, blooming from summer into autumn, usually from July to October. Japanese anemone also comes in a wide range of flower colors, its blooms are attractive, and it is not difficult to grow, which is why it is so popular with flower lovers. So how do you grow Japanese anemone? Below, the editor of Huinong Network will tell you the key points of growing Japanese anemone.
Key points for growing Japanese anemone:
1. Environment
Japanese anemone prefers a cool, dry environment and is cold-hardy and drought-tolerant, but not tolerant of high temperatures. It likes to grow in deep, well-drained sandy loam and should be planted in a slightly elevated spot to avoid waterlogging.
2. Fertilizing
During the seedling stage, when Japanese anemone is bolting, remove the flower buds to benefit root development. During the growing season, apply a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium water-soluble fertilizer once a month. After buds appear, stop nitrogen fertilizer; during the flowering period, apply additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to encourage more buds and brighter flowers! Stop fertilizing in winter, when the above-ground plant withers.
3. Watering
During the growing season, pay attention to reasonable watering of Japanese anemone, because it is a drought-tolerant flowering plant. So during its flowering period, water and fertilizer should be sufficient, but in the rainy season be careful to prevent waterlogging.
4. Sunlight
Japanese anemone loves light, and with sufficient sunlight its flower color is bright, but it is not tolerant of high temperatures. During the high heat of midsummer it needs shade, otherwise it will bloom less. In winter the above-ground plant withers, but the roots can overwinter in cold conditions and sprout new shoots again the following spring.
The above are the key points on growing Japanese anemone compiled by the editor of Huinong Network. Because Japanese anemone is cold-hardy, drought-tolerant and not tolerant of high temperatures, you must pay attention to shading during daily care, and also pay attention to timely drainage, especially with waterlogging. Alright, that is all for today on growing Japanese anemone. I hope it helps you grow Japanese anemone.
[Gardening] Illustrated guide to 150 common succulents and a complete cultivation guide
Currently a total of: 150 entries in the illustrated guide[Illustrated guide to 150 common succulents][Crassulaceae] 72 entries
[Crassulaceae, Echeveria] 19 entries[Crassulaceae, Aeonium] 9 entries[Crassulaceae, Crassula] 14 entries[Crassulaceae, Sedum] 9 entries[Crassulaceae, Kalanchoe] 4 entries[Crassulaceae, Sempervivum] 3 entries[Crassulaceae, Cotyledon] 3 entries[Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum] 3 entries[Crassulaceae, Orostachys] 2 entries[Crassulaceae, Graptopetalum] 1 entry[Crassulaceae, other genera and species] 4 entries[Aizoaceae] 8 entries[Liliaceae] 11 entries
[Liliaceae, Haworthia] 8 entries[Liliaceae, other genera and species] 3 entries[Asteraceae] 3 entries[Portulacaceae] 3 entries[Other families and genera] 3 entries[Crassulaceae] 34 entries
[Crassulaceae, Echeveria] 8 entries[Crassulaceae, Sedum] 8 entries[Crassulaceae, Graptopetalum] 4 entries[Crassulaceae, Crassula] 4 entries[Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum] 3 entries[Crassulaceae, Kalanchoe] 2 entries[Crassulaceae, Aeonium] 2 entries[Crassulaceae, Dudleya] 1 entry[Crassulaceae, Orostachys] 1 entry[Crassulaceae, other unidentified genera and species] 1 entry[Liliaceae] 7 entries[Aizoaceae] 6 entries[Asteraceae] 2 entries[Portulacaceae] 1 entry[Gardening] Everyday succulent care tips and answers to common problemsRecently I have put together a great many pictures about care and some common questions, and here I am again with a treat for everyone
I have noticed that everyone keeps repeating many of the same questions, especially on Weibo. Actually, a lot of this knowledge can be found in my blog
I once saw a gardening veteran give this example: in Resident Evil, at the beginning the protagonist still goes up to care when meeting a zombie, asking what on earth is going on
After the fifth film, the protagonist blows their heads off on sight... The spread of gardening knowledge is the same
So I think if I kept answering the same questions on Weibo every day, it would not be long before I turned into a deranged maniacTherefore I decided to sort out these common questions and answer them all at once with pictures
I also hope everyone will read the text carefully. Although it may not be entirely correct, it can still serve as some reference
I also welcome everyone to repost this article, so that more beginners can take fewer detours and have fewer doubts
These contents are valuable experience that Er Mu picked up in everyday care, and I hope friends who repost will credit the source(I am going on a business trip tomorrow~ This time it is a long trip, and the blog will not be updated for a week to 10 days, so let us interact on Weibo~）
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Before starting the illustrated guide, let me first explain some knowledge about succulent varieties and naming
Succulents are actually not divided into "ordinary goods" and "premium goods". Some newly introduced varieties or newly bred hybrids
are relatively rare because they are newly on the market, and are marked with higher prices. This is simply a commercial practice
It has almost no relation to the habits of succulents or their speed of propagation. Of course, it cannot be denied that some succulents really are harder to propagate
When these varieties appear, everyone falls into a misunderstanding, thinking that imported ones are good varieties, or treating some hybrid succulents as imported varieties
For example, cross "White Peony" with "Black Prince", and after success a new variety appears, with the merits of both parents, looking a bit more beautiful
Then sellers casually label it with a Latin name, pair it with a gorgeous Chinese name like "Peony Prince", and price it at several hundred yuan per plant
Thus the so-called "premium goods" appear. The above is only an example. At present, new species are named in Latin all over the world
After the name of a hybrid variety, the names of the parents are written immediately, to confirm what this variety was crossed from
In fact, many Chinese names are gradually coined by sellers or enthusiasts themselves, and they are not very accurate
But I think as long as they let everyone recognize the succulent, that is enough. As for Chinese names, as long as they are not too exaggerated, they are acceptable
So do not get hung up on the names of some succulents. First grow them plump and healthy, and in the process look for their names
This is a very interesting process, a process of getting to know a new field. For example, I also have many succulents at home that have been grown for 2 years and still cannot be identified by name
But they grow very plump and very beautiful~ Just looking at them feels satisfying~ Of course, being able to find their names and label them would be even more perfect
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Back to the care content: when everyone does not recognize a succulent, how can they know how to care for it?
The 150 succulents in the illustrated guide currently made on my blog all have care methods written according to the environmental conditions at my home (Weihai, Shandong)
We are in a temperate coastal area here, with an oceanic climate, very suitable for succulent growth
Unlike abroad, our winters here are too cold, and most succulents cannot survive winter outdoors
China spans a very large north-south range, and the Yangtze River basin has a lot of rain in the rainy season, so you can make appropriate adjustments according to the local climate
I do not know if everyone has noticed the real purpose of the illustrated guide: every succulent is labeled with its family and genus
This is very important, because succulents of different families and genera differ greatly in care
If you divide them by "genus", there would be too many varieties and everyone would get dizzy
But you can absolutely classify and care for the plants according to the "family" of the succulents
For example:
Crassulaceae: The succulents in this family all love sunlight very much, and most like a dry, well-ventilated environment, so the amount of watering should be relatively less.
Liliaceae: The succulents in this family all have very developed root systems and absorb relatively more water, so they can be paired with somewhat deeper containers, and when watering, try to soak them thoroughly each time. Also, some do not need too much sunlight, especially the Haworthia series, which can be grown in a diffused-light environment.
Aizoaceae: This is also a succulent that loves sunlight very much, but at the same time it also needs relatively more water and clusters very easily. However, it is especially sensitive to high temperatures in summer, so pay special attention to watering timing and amount; with the slightest carelessness it will rot.
Asteraceae: The succulents in this family are not cold-hardy and cannot take too much cold, and most cluster very readily, so they can be grown like spider plants. They also do not need much sunlight, though sufficient sunlight will also make them very beautiful.
Written this way, it is very clear. Of course, the succulents of each "family" can also be further divided into "genera", and succulents of different "genera" also differ in care and habits, but they are largely similar, and everyone can slowly learn this for themselves.
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Besides caring for succulents according to their varieties, you also need to pay attention to seasonal factors. I have introduced this many times before
Spring and autumn are the growing seasons for the plants. In this season you can water heavily; as long as the soil is dry, water thoroughly immediately
In summer and winter the succulents go dormant, and at this time you should water according to the situation
Especially in summer, the idea of cutting off water is not reliable. Many succulents die of dryness in summer precisely because water was cut off.
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Now let us begin the illustrated guide~
The succulents that are relatively expensive on the market now are not expensive because they are hard to propagate. The Spring Miracle and Quiet Night in the pictures below are varieties that are very easy to propagate
I will not discuss the commercial side of succulents. Everything below starts from the perspective of care
For Spring Miracle, everyone can look it up in the illustrated guide: Crassulaceae, Sedum
This species has an advantage: it grows very quickly, and the survival rate of leaf cuttings and stem cuttings is also very high
After getting it, you first need to let the succulent recover its growing state and adapt to the new environment, and then you can do all kinds of leaf cuttings and stem cuttings
In less than half a year, it will become a small patch, and if grown for a year it will basically be a full pot
[Spring Miracle][Quiet Night][Leaf cuttings]
Leaf cuttings of Quiet Night are very easy to succeed with, and the success rate is not much lower than that of "White Peony"
Just note leaf-cutting point 1: 20-25 degrees is the best temperature for leaf cuttings; if you are really in a hurry, it should still be above 15 degrees
With leaf cuttings below 10 degrees, you can basically forget about seeing sprouts and roots for two months. Last year I did leaf cuttings of White Peony in winter, in November
and I did not see sprouts until last month, and only this month did they start growing roots, nearly 4 months! My goodness!
Leaf-cutting point 2: soil moisture. At the beginning this does not need to be considered, until roots have grown
then you can water often, just a small amount; as soon as you find the soil surface dry, water immediately~
Ensuring enough humidity is what lets leaf-cutting seedlings grow healthily. While watering, you can also give them a little sunOnce the temperature is reached, Dongyun has a leaf-cutting success rate similar to White Peony
[Leaf cuttings of hybrid Dongyun][Cleaning up leaves]
Everyone should often encounter this situation: many small pups grow out at the base of the leaves. Normally, this situation does not need to be dealt with
But because most of our succulents are grown in pots, not in a wild growing state, it often happens that the lower leaves squeeze the small seedlings
Especially in summer, if there are too many lower leaves, it is very easy to smother the small seedlings at the bottom
At this time, we can pull off all the leaves around the small seedlings, and the pulled-off leaves can still be used for leaf cuttings
Moreover, more space will let the small seedlings grow better~ After growing for a while, they become the legendary clustered clump~
[Quiet Night][Pachyphytum 'Moonlight'][Cuttings]
Regarding the rooting part of cuttings, it is best to let the cut branches dry out, and you can even face the cut wound directly toward the sun to dry it.
This ultraviolet disinfection method allows the wound to heal faster, and the succulent will grow more healthily later on.
It has a particularly good effect on some varieties that are harder to propagate.
If you do not dry the wound and plant it directly, that also works, but through comparison it has been found that such succulents often suffer from pests and diseases later in their growth.
Their health is far inferior to succulents whose wounds were dried before being planted as cuttings, so drying the wound is something you absolutely must do![Cutting Temperature]
Besides drying the wound, temperature is also very important for cuttings. Below 15°C, rooting is extremely difficult.
Aside from some of the tougher succulents, they may fail to produce roots for a month or even two months.
Some succulents I took as cuttings in November last winter were the same, because the temperature at home hovered around 10°C.
It was not until the third month, after I moved the succulents to a place at 15-20°C, that they produced roots.
Fortunately, succulents are all fairly tough by nature; other plants would have died long ago.
As for watering, you can decide based on the condition of the succulent and the environment. Since the newly grown roots will not be many, just water a small amount.
Once you see the soil surface has dried out completely, replenish the water right away. When the succulent's leaves become plump, it can accept sunlight.
[Echeveria runyonii 'Topsy Turvy' f. variegata cutting][Wrinkled Leaves]
Observing a succulent's leaves is very important; a great deal of information can be observed from them.
The cutting below is definitely short of water, but even after watering, its condition still had not recovered after 2-3 days.
This lets you conclude that the roots have not grown well yet. When there are not many roots, the succulent absorbs very poorly; even if there is enough water in the soil, it cannot take it up.
At this point you can further analyze your soil mix. If the soil mix is also fine, then just wait!
Never let doubt make you pull the succulent out to check. Succulents grow slowly, so their recovery speed is also very slow.
A cutting in poor condition like this will look completely different after about 3 months.
Of course, the temperature must be above 15°C, otherwise the recovery time will be even longer.
[Echeveria 'Ivory' short of water, with poor roots][Judging Condition by Color]
The situation below is very strange: succulents in different conditions within the same pot.
Last autumn, the one on the left was still green, while the one on the right stayed a very beautiful red the whole time.
Red is not a healthy color. After winter arrived, the green succulent still kept a plump state and grew slowly.
The red one, however, entered a dormant recovery state, and after the color faded it became very unattractive.
But if you look carefully (photo 2), you will find there is still green in the center of the leaves, so there is no need to worry.
Just keep waiting! Once spring warms up, they will all return to good condition!
There are many reasons for this. Although they are planted in the same pot and their daily care is the same,
the plants' own differing health conditions create a huge difference, just like a healthy child and a sick child living in the same room.
[Crassula mesembryanthemoides][Etiolation - Growth]
There are also many different states of etiolation, but overall etiolation shows that the plant is still growing normally.
Compared with succulents that do not grow and have wrinkled leaves, it is much, much healthier. Etiolation should only count as sub-health!
In the photos below, pictures 1 and 2 show obvious etiolation. The cause of this situation is too much water.
But this is not a bad thing. As long as there is plenty of sunlight at home, and you increase the sunlight time and keep watering during later care, the succulents will become plump and thick.
Never think that this etiolation is bad and stop watering, because at this time the succulents are in their growing period.
If you cut off water now, it will slow their growth, and making the succulents plump and thick will become quite difficult.
Picture 1 [Echeveria 'Afterglow']Picture 2 [Fuji][Etiolation - Shaping]
This kind of etiolation is the most common. Generally there are two ways to handle it: the blue X is to twist off the leaves for leaf propagation, and the red O is to cut it off for cuttings.
Choosing to twist off the leaves for leaf propagation lets the succulent keep growing in this state, and later it will become what is called an "old stump".
The red cutting method is what everyone often does -- propagate. After the cut-off part's wound dries, it can be replanted as a new cutting.
At the same time, multiple new shoots will sprout from the cut position, and later they will grow more and more numerous.
When you encounter etiolation like this, you can appropriately reduce the amount of watering and lengthen the watering interval.
At the same time, increase the sunlight time. If conditions allow and it is warm enough outdoors, move them outside to feel the breath of nature!
They will recover very quickly.
[Sedum rubrotinctum][Not Etiolation]
The two situations below are not etiolation~ Everyone must not misunderstand etiolation as simply growing longer and longer.
Plants~ growing longer and longer is normal; only plants that do not grow have problems!
Basically, like this it already counts as having become an old stump. If you want to shape it separately, you can dig out a single plant, twist off some of the bottom leaves,
and then pair it with a pot you like, so you can create a very perfect small potted succulent arrangement.[Graptoveria 'Titubans'][Graptopetalum paraguayense][Growth Information]
In the photo below, the center leaves of the Black Prince turning green is growth information, showing that the succulent has started growing and that water is fairly sufficient.
So for a short time you do not need to water. Keep observing, and judge what to do based on the succulents' latest condition.[Freeze Damage]
This situation is caused by long-term low temperatures, or by a short period of strong temperature drop. After being damaged, the succulent will not show anything for a short time.
During later growth it will slowly reveal the freeze damage, and in severe cases even the newly grown leaves will carry the same freeze injury.
Such succulents have lowered immunity and are very prone to mold diseases, so you need to increase sunlight time at the same time to make the succulent healthy again.
At the same time, you also need to slowly ease the succulent's condition. A temperature of around 15°C is the most suitable. It is better to let the succulent have a transition period for temperature.[Mold Phenomenon]
There are several main causes of this phenomenon. Among them, succulents that were planted without a layer of small stones spread on the surface are especially prone to mold.
Too much watering, too low a temperature, poor ventilation, water unable to evaporate in time, and the succulent reducing its water uptake because the temperature is too low or too high.
In other words, these situations are especially likely to occur in winter and summer. Picture 1 can basically be declared dead.
But you can also immediately twist off the remaining leaves and try leaf propagation to see. If you immediately cut off the blackened part above the soil surface, there is still hope it will send out new shoots.
For ones like pictures 2 and 3, the roots can be confirmed to have completely rotted, but they can still be saved.
Promptly trim the very bottom again, then dry it and plant it in dry soil.
Picture 1Picture 2Picture 3[Handling Dead Leaves]
The lowest leaves of succulents often dry up and fall off, or become transparent and turn to water.
The former is a normal metabolic process of the succulent, and there is no need to worry about it. Once the leaf has completely dried and can be removed easily, take it off and throw it away.
Dead leaves that accumulate over a long time easily contract pests and diseases, and in summer especially they create a closed, stuffy environment, so they must be cleaned up.
As for the dry leaves that are not easy to remove, leave them alone. Forcibly pulling them off will hurt the succulent itself.
Transparent wateriness is mostly because the succulent was just bought and brought home and planted not long ago, causing discomfort due to the sudden change in growing environment.
There is no need to worry too much about this, and no need to manage it either. During later growth, the transparent leaves will slowly dry up or turn to water.
Just clean them off directly. However, these should be treated as key observation targets, because the succulent's stem may become blackened by mold infection caused by the leaves turning to water.[Echeveria runyonii 'Topsy Turvy' with dead leaves][Withered leaves]--[Transparent water-turned leaves]--[Healthy leaves]The lowest leaves drying up and falling off, plus the normal phenomenon of the succulent's stem growing taller, will produce an "old stump".
[Crassula mesembryanthemoides][Leaf Cracking Phenomenon]
Some succulents develop cracked leaves. I also cannot say clearly what exactly the cause is.
A few succulents at home really do have this situation, but it does not affect the succulents' growth at all.
Once the growing season arrives, it will be fine after new leaves grow out~ The cracked leaves will eventually dry up and fall off.
So everyone does not need to worry too much; just care for them as you normally would.In the photo below, new leaves have already grown above the cracked leaves.
[Sedum 'Little Beauty'][White Mold Spot Phenomenon]
This situation has so far been found to appear only on succulents of the genus "Crassula", especially "Crassula capitella 'Campfire'" and "Crassula capitella 'Red Flames'".
At present I still have not analyzed exactly what the cause is, but it is certainly related to watering. Too much water in the soil leads to a more humid environment.
Crassula itself does not need much water, especially in summer. However, this white mold spot seems to have little effect on the succulent's growth.
These succulents at home with white mold spots have all grown new leaves too, and most of their stems are very long and have begun to become woody.
Continued observation is still needed later![Sunburn Spots - Disease]
I believe this is the phenomenon everyone sees most often. Especially for succulents grown outdoors, these marks appear very easily.
There are many causes. The most common is water droplets -- water drops left on the leaves when watering, or small droplets remaining on the leaves in the early morning.
After sunny daylight, they scorch out scars. The principle is very simple: the principle of a magnifying glass concentrating light to ignite a fire.
This is very common especially when placed outdoors under strong ultraviolet light. Relatively speaking, succulents placed behind glass rarely show this situation.
Because glass blocks most of the ultraviolet light, the ultraviolet light received by succulents behind glass is very mild.
However, I have also found that after improving the sunlight environment later, the newly grown leaves sometimes still have such scars.
At present I still cannot determine the cause. After talking with fellow growers, it feels like a kind of disease, similar to freckles in humans~
None of this affects the succulent's growth at all. For example, with the Echeveria 'Frosty Morn' below, once new leaves grow out it will become very beautiful.
The oldest leaves at the very bottom will also slowly dry up and fall off, so there is no need to worry too much.
[Echeveria 'Tippy'][Echeveria 'Takasago no Okina'][Echeveria 'Frosty Morn'][Echeveria 'Frosty Morn' gaining new life]
The old leaves covered in scars and the newly grown leaves form a strong contrast. Very striking~ It has the feeling of a lotus emerging from water~[Flowering, Flower Buds]
Many succulent plants are themselves shaped like flowers in various forms, so many fellow growers have always mistakenly thought that succulents do not flower.
Actually, succulents are flowering plants, and basically all of them will bloom; it is just that due to differences in variety habits, there are some differences in flowering time.
Some bloom several times a year, some only bloom every spring, and some bloom only once every ten years.
Gardeners often mistake flower buds for new branches growing out of the succulents. Both Figure 1 and Figure 2 below show flower buds that have grown out.
This flower bud will gradually grow longer and eventually form a flower stalk that shoots out, as shown in Figure 3, the flower stalk of Echeveria 'Moon Goddess'.
Succulents take a very long time to bloom, and the process of the flower bud forming a flower stalk is also very long, averaging 2-3 months.
This process consumes a lot of nutrients, and some succulents bloom only once in their entire life and then die.
Flowers like those of Echeveria are actually quite beautiful, and the nutrient consumption is not too obvious.
But if you do not like watching them bloom, you can just cut them off~
During growth, the flower stalk will knock off some of the waxy coating and white powder on the leaves, which makes the succulent look very unattractive, as shown in Figure 4.
Figure 1 [Echeveria 'Red Glow']Figure 2 [Graptopetalum 'Jinsi Huang']Figure 3 [Echeveria 'Moon Goddess']Figure 4 [Echeveria 'Chihuahuaensis'][The relationship between pot size and succulents]
I have always been observing what kind of pot is most suitable for planting succulents, and I found a very interesting phenomenon: whatever size succulent you like, pair it with that size of pot.
If you like plump, large succulents, plant them directly in a flower bed, or give them a deeper and larger pot, and the succulents will grow very plump and large.
If you like mini and cute ones, then place them in small, cute mini pots, and the succulents will maintain a moderate, mini-sized form.
Both of these points are related to water and soil, with the former being more important. Sufficient moisture inside the pot can ensure continuous growth of the succulent.
When the moisture disappears, the succulent will, depending on the drought conditions, eventually begin to consume its own water (which is the commonly seen situation where the lowest leaves dry up and fall off).
As for the latter, with soil, adding more granules makes drainage stronger and moisture evaporates faster, so it is not quite suitable for succulent growth.
But for some old-stem succulents, the old stem itself has reduced absorption function, so using soil mixed with granules actually works better.
Mini pots basically cannot retain moisture; on a sunny day, water given in the day dries up the same day.
In this way, the succulent is in a state of stopped growth or consuming its own leaf moisture most of the time, so it grows very slowly and very small~
But it still does not reduce its cuteness at all~ A lack of water plus sufficient sunlight will make the succulents' colors more vivid.
[Graptoveria 'Titubans'][Pachyphytum 'Blue Haze'][Echeveria 'Black Prince'][Color change in succulent leaves]
I have written about this before~ so I will not say much more. It is on the blog homepage, and those interested can go look for it themselves.
The main 2 points for succulents changing color: temperature difference and sunlight.
The ones below are being used for experiments. They were just moved outdoors 2 days ago, and they were already quite red originally inside the glass room.
Right now it is about 2-8 degrees outdoors. I do not know how many days it will take for them to turn fully red. These past few days there has also been smog, with no sunlight, so I feel it will take even longer.
Color change is not necessarily a good sign; it is just external factors stimulating the succulent, so do not misunderstand it.
So when choosing succulents to move outdoors to try low-temperature color change, it is best to choose ones that are originally cold-resistant, or plants that are relatively robust in growth.
In Crassulaceae, Sedum, Sempervivum, and Echeveria are all good cold-resistant mainstays. Everyone can give them a try.[Echeveria 'Flower Moon Night'][Sedum 'Little Red Child'][Succulent arrangements]
Regarding mixed arrangements and combined pots, many gardeners think that crowding together is not good for growth, or that after planting, they will lose their shape before long.
That is indeed true, but it can be solved by dividing varieties: mix and plant succulents with similar habits, different varieties, and different colors together.
Not only can this make up for these shortcomings, it will also look very beautiful, and they may even grow better when squeezed together~
However, when selecting varieties, you need to have a certain understanding of the habits of all succulents, and this requires long-term observation to discover.[Color change also happens through glass]
Many gardeners feel that glass blocks far too much ultraviolet light, and indoors the temperature is at a relatively constant level most of the time.
So not only do the succulents fail to change into beautiful colors, they also often become leggy and very unattractive.
Actually, this understanding is correct; it is just that when growing succulents indoors, certain conditions are weakened, which causes this effect.
If daily sunlight reaches more than 4-5 hours, or if you often open the window for ventilation to maintain a temperature difference effect,
the succulents will still change color and will not become leggy~ Below are succulents grown indoors for half a year under relatively constant temperature conditions.
Indoor conditions: windows completely sealed, no ventilation, 4-5 hours of sunlight per day, winter temperature 22-26, and on sunny days the windowsill can even reach 30 degrees.
Everyone can refer to the above conditions and make some adjustments for their own succulents.
[Cotyledon tomentosa][Kalanchoe tomentosa][Watering and Cotyledon tomentosa]
About watering, it is still the same saying: definitely do not water on a fixed schedule. It is best to water according to weather conditions and the dryness or moisture of the soil.
Finally, let me talk separately about Cotyledon tomentosa. This is one of my favorite succulents. I have grown it for 3 years and have never pruned it.
After these years of communicating with this little bear friend, I found that it really likes sunlight and very much likes dry environments with sufficient sunlight.
But this does not mean watering less. Every time I water, I wait until the soil is completely dry and then water thoroughly once.
I have given it the spot at home with the longest sunlight hours, and especially in winter, I put it in a slightly warmer place.
In summer, try not to put it outdoors. It is best to choose a place with fewer sunlight hours or provide some shade.
In summer, this little bear fears rainwater the most. First, because rainwater brings in a lot of dust, making the little bear's fuzz very dirty; second, it easily gets infected from stuffy dampness.
Basically that is it! If I run into new problems later, I will organize them properly again. Fellow gardeners, study well and grow fat succulents every day.[Growing experience] How to make succulents more beautiful
These past two days I crazily bought a lot of books, wanting to enrich my gardening knowledge and creativity.
What was rather disappointing is that the content in the books is too little, far from enough to read, but Tasha Tudor's book felt especially warm and familiar, and the text is well worth savoring repeatedly.
Let me continue handing in my homework~~ I have seen many friends worrying about why their succulents do not look good and how to grow them more beautifully.
Some friends' first reaction is surely: PS or a good camera That indeed counts as one, but I think it can only account for 5% of the total proportion.
Overall, how to make succulents more beautiful, based on my growing experience, there are three major factors: 1. sunlight, 2. watering, 3. pairing and landscaping.
Let us go one by one~~~
1. Sunlight
This must be the one everyone is most familiar with. One of the biggest secrets to growing succulents is "sunlight."
Most succulents will turn red after being exposed to strong sun, or their colors will become more vivid. Actually, there is also an additional condition - [temperature difference].
Among succulents, the ones that best show color changes should be Crassulaceae~ This is also one of the main reasons why Sedum-type succulents are so addictive to everyone.
PS: Sufficient sunlight plus a large temperature difference will make succulents even redder and more vivid (my home cannot do that for now, so I will just post two random photos).2. Watering
Watering is really, really important! Very important! The most common thing is misting. Small water droplets fall onto the succulent, and then come noon's intense sunlight and scorching exposure.
Great~~ direct sunburn. At this time, the water droplets play the role of a magnifying glass. Think of the example of a magnifying glass focusing sunlight to start a fire~
So this is one reason why you definitely should not mist.
The second reason not to mist: most succulents, mainly Echeveria, have white powder on their leaves, and this powder is produced only once.
If you spray water or water directly aimed at the leaves, the white powder will be washed away, and the white powder on the leaves will not regenerate.
At this point, if you want the succulent to become more beautiful, you can only wait for new leaves. A long process...
Next is to be careful about touching. Students who often like to hold succulents in their hands and fiddle with them should be careful. If you want them to be more beautiful, do not touch the leaves.
PS: When watering, try as much as possible to pour along the edge of the pot. If you really cannot do that, then do not pour water directly into the center of the succulent.Below are some examples of white powder being rubbed off.At spot 1, the white powder can clearly be seen~ Spot 2 is a mark caused by watering.
Besides Echeveria, many other Crassulaceae plants also have white powder.
Among the varieties on my balcony, those with white powder are roughly: Echeveria, Echeveria 'Flower Moon Night', Sedum 'Yachiyo', Graptopetalum paraguayense, Echeveria 'Frosty Morn', Echeveria 'Yudie', Graptoveria 'Titubans', Pachyphytum 'Starfruit', Pachyphytum 'Peach Beauty', and so on. There are too many varieties, so everyone can pay attention and observe them themselves. No matter the variety, as long as you pay attention to the watering method, it is fine.There are also some succulents that can still remain beautiful after improper watering~ generally those whose main tones are white and cyan.3. Pairing and landscaping
This is a bit beyond my ability. I feel it is related to one's artistic sense~ The most important thing is still the issue of "color tone."
I believe friends who like multicolored paintings can quickly put together beautiful succulent landscapes.
When arranging succulents, note that enough space should be reserved to give them more room to grow. A tightly packed arrangement can only maintain its effect for a very short time.
Also pay attention to the growth forms of the succulents: there are trailing types, tree-like types, coral-like types, and so on. The habits of the succulents also need attention.
Combining succulents with different habits brings a lot of inconvenience in watering and sunlight, so these three points must be taken into consideration when combining them.
I myself am still a beginner and do not have much experience in this area.
I will explore slowly~ There is still a lot to learn~ I will often update things in this area in the future~
PS: Pairing and landscaping requires a rich personal understanding of "color," such as black and white, red and green, and so on. A succulent arrangement is also a combination of colors.
Its growth space, habits, and form are also three very important points, affecting how long the arrangement can be maintained. Later maintenance and trimming are also necessary.I wrote a whole jumble of stuff~ Finally, let me post one succulent that I have a little question about~ The Echeveria 'Red Glow' at home suddenly became so plump~
It even turned double-headed. When I lifted the leaves and looked... there was a ring of little babies underneath.Can someone tell me how to deal with this? This way, I cannot even behead it.
If I do not deal with it, I am also worried the little babies underneath will develop poorly... Why do all the succulents in my house sprout heads like this~~~~~~~~~Early in the morning I went to look at the new house. It has already been topped out, and they told me it can only be handed over in May next year. I prepared a bunch of climbing roses in advance for the yard~
In the afternoon I went to a nearby nursery to look at pots. This kind of clay pot is indeed cheap~ 2 yuan, 3 yuan, 5 yuan, choose whatever you like...
I picked the two largest ones, planning to put them on the terrace to grow first. When I move to the new house next year, I will take them over together.The climbing rose bloomed directly~ Awesome!I have had the idea of making a succulent illustrated guide for a long time. Before, I simply saved the pictures and changed the picture names to the names of the succulents.
Actually, for me, growing succulents can only be considered a hobby, and I do not want to become a succulent botanist myself, so I have always lazily enjoyed myself.
After a long time, I found that I did not recognize many varieties, and I could not even distinguish what family and genus they belonged to.
From the perspective of a hobbyist, I do not really recommend everyone memorizing by rote what family and genus they are, because everyone's fun lies in planting and gardening.
But I found that usually, whether in QQ groups or on Weibo, many friends do not understand the names and habits of succulents, and there are many repeated questions.
So I wanted to organize a succulent illustrated guide to make it convenient for everyone to recognize and understand them, and also convenient for myself to look up information.
The content of the illustrated guide is relatively simple. After I posted it on Weibo, the response was strong, and many friends raised various viewpoints.
I summarized it a bit. If all the information were written into the illustrated guide, then I really would have become a botanist.
And collecting this information also takes a very long time. You have to look things up, compare them, and also combine it with your own growing experience.
So I directly gave up most of the content, such as Latin names and so on. Ordinary hobbyists do not need to understand that much, right!
Simply put, this set of illustrated guides I organized mainly targets ordinary succulent hobbyists:
1. It is mainly for everyone's beginner recognition. Watering and sunlight and other care methods are for reference only.
2. Simple, easy to understand, intuitive, convenient to save and look up (I recommend everyone save the pictures and change the picture names to the names of the succulents).
3. All pictures in the illustrated guide were taken by myself, and they are also succulents I am currently growing.
4. The content mainly marks out my usual care experience and some characteristics of the succulents. (Blogger's region: Weihai, Shandong)
5. Since I'm not a professional either, mistakes are inevitable. If you spot any, you can reach me on Weibo @me, or send me a private message, and I'll check and correct them promptly.
6. I reserve the final right of interpretation for the images! This illustrated guide is not for commercial use, and anyone who casually steals the images for use will definitely be reported to the end!
[Succulent Plant FAQ]
Because the image content is limited, there is a lot of repeated information I haven't added. Here I'll answer everyone's questions in one place (I can't finish organizing it all at once, so it will be continuously updated):
① When are the growing season and dormant season for succulent plants?
Answer: Spring and autumn are the growing seasons for succulent plants, while summer and winter are the dormant seasons. However, due to regional and climatic conditions, in some areas they can also grow in summer and winter. For example: turning on the air conditioning in summer, or having heating in northern regions in winter, can both keep succulent plants growing.
② What exactly does "full sun" mean?
Answer: "Full sun" refers to the duration of sunlight, meaning that some succulent plants can receive sunlight all day. It does not mean placing them completely under the sun to bathe. In summer, some sun protection measures are still needed (shade netting).
③ Can the "scientific names" and "alternative names" both be labeled in the illustrated guide?
Answer: Because I'm not a professional plant researcher either, I'm also skeptical about some of the names online (many Chinese names are made up by sellers themselves), and I can't distinguish which names are truly correct. The Latin names are also too cumbersome, so the names in the illustrated guide are just the common, frequently used ones. If there are errors, I will check and correct them promptly.
④ What temperature is suitable for succulent plants to grow? At what temperatures in summer and winter do they go dormant?
Answer: For succulent plants, the most suitable growing temperature is 10°C-30°C. Of course, temperature can't be a constant value. When summer temperatures exceed 35°C, some succulent plants will enter dormancy, especially the "winter-growing type" (growing in winter). When the temperature reaches 40°C, almost all succulent plants will enter dormancy, and even the "summer-growing type" (growing in summer) will enter dormancy (no longer absorbing water). In winter, when temperatures drop below 5°C, some succulent plants will enter dormancy. 0°C is the freezing point, and water will slowly freeze. The leaves and stems of succulent plants are mostly water inside, so when the temperature drops below 0°C, the water inside the succulent plants will also slowly freeze, and the main plant body will certainly stop growing. At this point, you must stop watering.
⑤ Can the cultivation medium suitable for succulent plants be added to the illustrated guide?
Answer: I've already written about this in the pinned post on the homepage. From the mediums I've used so far, soft peat soil + granules is the most suitable. The ingredients of the "Liang Tu" (beautiful soil) I commonly use are also: peat soil + rice husk + perlite + vermiculite, etc. To save effort, I just use Liang Tu directly for cultivation each time. And almost all the succulent plants at home use the same uniform medium.
⑥ Does "stopping watering" in summer mean not watering at all? How long does this period roughly last?
Answer: The commonly mentioned "stopping watering" in summer is actually only for some succulent plants. Plants still need water, so during high summer temperatures, extend the watering interval to once a month, with a small amount being best. This lets the soil retain just a tiny bit of moisture. Succulent plants surviving in the wild also rely on moisture in the ground soil to get through summer, so they can survive for several months or even half a year without rainwater. But now that succulent plants are transplanted into homes, terracotta and similar pots can easily dry out completely. In summer, I sometimes still keep watering once a week or even once every 5 days. The duration mainly depends on the weather and temperature conditions. Once autumn arrives and temperatures start slowly dropping, you can increase the amount of watering.
⑦ Can the illustrated guide indicate "winter-growing type" (growing in winter) or "summer-growing type" (growing in summer)?
Answer: Considering that existing information is limited, many succulent plants are hard to determine which type they belong to. Only after personally cultivating and observing them can conclusions be drawn, so I haven't directly added this to the illustrated guide. However, for those I can confirm from existing information, I will definitely add them. The "winter-growing type" and "summer-growing type" don't differ much in the cultivation process. The growing seasons are still spring and autumn, and they still go dormant in summer and winter. So for ordinary enthusiasts, as long as you know how to care for them, that's enough~ For specifics, please refer to the answers to questions ④ and ⑥.
⑧ Looking at the illustrated guide, all the succulents have different watering and sunlight requirements. Can they be planted together? How do you care for those mixed plantings?
Answer: They can be planted together! And the combined effect is even more beautiful~ Succulents of different colors paired together look even prettier. For care, normal sunlight and watering are fine. I think mixed-planted succulents grow better and faster, perhaps because growing together gives them a sense of competition! But one thing to pay special attention to: when mixing succulent plants, try to choose the same family and genus for planting, because their habits are roughly the same, making them easier to manage. For example: mixing Echeveria types, mixing Sedum types, or you can also mix Sedum and Echeveria together, because they all belong to the Crassulaceae family. However, mixing Aizoaceae and Crassulaceae together is not so good, because Aizoaceae are more sensitive to water. After a while you'll find that you have to dig them out and rearrange them.
⑨ What is "fasciation"?
Answer: Fasciation refers to a common malformation mutation phenomenon in flowers and plants.
Fasciation mutation refers to certain varieties (cultivars) of succulent plants receiving unidentified external stimulation, causing their apical growing point to abnormally divide and double, forming many small growing points. These growing points then develop laterally and connect into a line, eventually growing into a flat fan shape or cockscomb-shaped band. Due to their strange morphology, fasciated mutant plants have higher ornamental value, and because they are rare, they are more precious than the original species (cultivar).
Do you also often grow some succulent plants? Below, the editor will share succulent plant cultivation methods with everyone.Repotting Succulent Plants
1
Newspaper, tweezers, small shovel, mixed soil, akadama soil, container, fertilizer. After getting the succulent, first trim the roots and let them air dry for two days, which allows the root wounds to heal.2
Preparing the container: prepare a container slightly larger than the original pot. First decide where you want to plant the plant in the pot. Add large-grained akadama soil, roughly to about one-third the height of the pot, which allows drainage to be smoother!
3
Before adding fertilizer, first put in a layer of potting soil. The amount of soil just needs to cover the akadama soil below, then add a small pinch of fertilizer.
4
Adjusting the plant's height: place the plant into the pot while adjusting the height. After deciding the height, add potting soil. Hold the plant with one hand and sprinkle potting soil around it with the other. Don't fill the soil too full; leave room for watering.
5
Compact the soil and potting mix. After placing the plant, tap the pot to make the soil more compact with no gaps. If you feel there isn't enough soil, add more. Finally, top with volcanic rock.
Repotting tips: When dividing offsets, carefully separate the plants, and be sure not to damage the roots. If the baby plants are still connected to the roots, be even more careful not to break the roots. If the bottom of the pot is relatively large, it's best to line it with newspaper and mesh. After laying down newspaper, loose soil won't easily fall out, helping keep the room clean. Moreover, by the time the roots have grown well, the newspaper will have mostly decomposed, very practical! Use your hands to remove the soil stuck to the roots. This soil is all old soil with no nutrients, so throw it away.
END
Succulent Plant Cuttings
1
Choose the plant you want to use for stem cuttings. A leggy succulent plant is already at a level where it can be a mother plant, so choosing such a plant for stem cuttings is most suitable.
2
Cut off a section of the plant with scissors at the top one-third of the plant. Don't worry, your succulent will grow very well.
3
Then the remaining part just needs to be cared for as usual, and after some time it will heal itself; then use your hands to remove the excess leaves from the cut plant section, exposing a section of stem.
4
Then carefully plant the cutting into a pot filled with soil. Alternatively, place the cutting in a small bottle filled with water, being careful not to let the plant touch the water surface. Leave some space so the plant can root well for future replanting.
Stem cutting tips: It's best to wait until the cut wound turns black or shrinks before planting the cut plant. When planting, it's best not to touch it with your hands. It's best to use tweezers for planting, which keeps the plant in good condition.
END
Creating a Potted Landscape
1
First choose the colors, types, and heights of the succulent plants, then decide on purchasing small seedlings. Roughly decide on the composition, paying attention to the balance and beauty of the plants.
2
Then prepare a small pot. First spread a layer of soil, making sure to moisten it with water.
3
On top, spread another layer of volcanic rock. Volcanic rock is a great companion for succulent growth, providing quite a few trace elements. Moisten it as well.
4
Start transplanting the seedlings from the edge of the container. Start transplanting and pushing soil at one edge, then slowly spread toward the other side. (Use the soil in the container to push toward the seedlings. This approach helps avoid adding too much soil at the end, which would dirty the seedlings.)
5
Try not to touch the seedling leaves with your hands, so using tweezers for this is most suitable.
Echeveria runyonii 'Topsy Turvy'Echeveria runyonii cv 'Topsy Turvy' also known as Teyedie, Crassulaceae, Echeveria genus
Echeveria runyonii 'Topsy Turvy' is a perennial evergreen succulent plant, with its original species native to Mexico. The first mutant variety originated in California. The plant grows in clusters and freely produces branches. The leaves are arranged in a rosette. Echeveria runyonii 'Topsy Turvy' is covered with a thick layer of white powder. The leaf base is a twisted spoon shape, with both edges curving outward, causing the middle part to arch up, while the leaf tip curves inward toward the growing point. There is a distinct groove in the center of the leaf's back. The leaf color is blue-green.
The plant diameter can reach 20-30 cm, and the height can reach 15-30 cm. This variety grows rapidly. It is a very attractive succulent plant whether potted or planted in the garden, and is very easy to cultivate.
Echeveria runyonii 'Topsy Turvy' prefers a warm, dry, and ventilated environment. It likes light, is drought-tolerant, cold-tolerant, and shade-tolerant. It is not tolerant of intense sun exposure, and has no obvious dormant period.
1) Flowering: In autumn, it grows arched racemes and blooms bright red-orange flowers. The flower color is very vivid.
2) Cultivation key points: The suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C, and not lower than 5°C in winter. For soil mix, generally use peat + vermiculite + perlite in equal parts, and add an appropriate amount of bone meal. You can also use a mix of 3 parts leaf mold, 3 parts river sand, 1 part garden soil, and 1 part furnace slag; during the growing season, water thoroughly after the soil dries out. When the air is dry, you can spray water around the plant. During the growing season, fertilize generally about once every 20 days.
3) Propagation methods: including cuttings and division. Cuttings include leaf cuttings and stem cuttings. For leaf cuttings, lay a complete mature leaf flat on moist sandy soil, with the leaf surface facing up and the leaf back facing down. There's no need to cover with soil. Place in a cool, shaded area. After about 10 days, small leaf clusters and new roots will grow from the leaf base. Bury the roots in soil, then let it get more sunlight, water and fertilize appropriately, and gradually it will grow into a robust new plant. For stem cuttings, you can use single leaves, tiller branches, or top branches. The length of the cut stem is not limited, but the cut end must dry, then remove the lower leaves, and insert into a sand bed. After insertion, roots generally form in about 20 days. The cutting medium should not be too wet, otherwise the cut end will easily turn yellow and rot. When roots reach 2-3 cm, pot them up. August to October is better, with fast rooting and high survival rate. Leaf cuttings can also be used. Division is best done in spring.
4) Care: Usually requires full sun or slight shade, or very strong indoor lighting. The soil needs to be very well-draining. In greenhouses, equal proportions of clay and sand are used, with small gravel added to ensure drainage. Water according to the "dry-wet cycle" principle. This is very important for plant health, because overwatering can cause the plant to die. During the growing season, fertilize usually once, using a balanced fertilizer, diluted to 1/2 the recommended dose according to instructions. During the winter months, reduce watering, only enough to keep the leaves from wrinkling.
Solving the trouble of leggy succulents~After planting according to your preferences, try not to move the transplanted seedlings anymore. When finishing up, use a small shovel to add some akadama or decorative stones.
Echeveria 'Purple Pearl'
Lesson notes (0)
Comments Questions Write notesSempervivum 'Red' Sempervivum belongs to the genus Sempervivum L.
This genus's scientific name means semper (forever) and vivium (growing). English name HOUSELEEK, Japanese name "spider nest myriad generation grass." Origin: south-central Europe, North Africa, the Caucasus, and Asia Minor. Distribution areas include North America, Canada, China, Japan, Myanmar, India, and other regions with warm climate hilly areas.
1) Variety history: In the 1930s, 23 varieties were organized for this genus. Japan began popularizing this genus from the mid-Meiji period, and it was introduced to our country in recent years. Because this genus is extremely easy to hybridize under natural and artificial conditions, names and quantities are very confused. For example, S. tectorum (Lingying) has 70 different scientific names and cultivation names. The varieties recorded for this genus reach 200. Conservatively speaking, there are now 45 species (including early natural hybrid varieties).
2) Morphological characteristics: Succulent herbaceous plant, thick leaves, often forming rosettes, leaves often have filamentous hairs or fine hairs; flowers in cymose panicles, in colors of red, white, yellow, etc. It is similar and most closely related to the genus Aeonium.
3) Cultivation and propagation: This genus is very cold-tolerant and sensitive to high temperatures. During cultivation, pay attention to air circulation, as it easily rots in summer. The lower soil layer should be humus soil, and the upper layer should be sandy soil, slightly acidic. Propagation uses offsets that sprout from stolons. Leaf cuttings are also very easy. Hybridization very easily produces seeds.
During high summer temperatures and cold winter temperatures, the plant is in a dormant state. The main growing seasons are the cooler spring and autumn. During the growing season, it requires ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, the plant shape will become loose and not compact, affecting its ornamental value. Plants grown in sufficient light have thick, plump leaves, a compact shape, and beautiful leaf color.
4) Watering principles: "Don't water until dry, water thoroughly when you do." Avoid prolonged waterlogging to prevent root rot, but also don't let it get too dry, otherwise although the plant won't die, it will grow slowly, with dull leaf color and lack of vitality. Apply decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer or a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus, high-potassium compound fertilizer about once every 20 days. In winter, if the nighttime temperature is not below 5°C and the daytime temperature is above 15°C, the plant can continue to grow, and you can water normally and fertilize appropriately; if you control watering to keep the plant dormant, it can also tolerate low temperatures of 0°C.
Pests and diseases mainly include leaf-eating insects and rot fungi.
Echeveria 'Purple Pearl' lesson notes (1)
Comments Questions Write notesEcheveria cv. Peale von Nurnberg Crassulaceae, Echeveria genus
Crassulaceae, Echeveria genus prefers a warm, dry, and ventilated environment. It likes light, is drought-tolerant, cold-tolerant, shade-tolerant, and tolerant of stuffy indoor environments. It has extremely strong adaptability, is not tolerant of intense sun exposure, and has no obvious dormant period. Its leaves are a magnificent pink-purple, like spoons. The purple color is not obvious in summer, and deepens again in autumn. When placed in sunlight, it will grow into a rose petal shape.
1) Flowering: From late summer to early autumn, flower stems grow from the leaves, blooming slightly purple orange flowers.
2) Cultivation key points: Care for it in a ventilated environment, otherwise it easily gets sick. Its suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C, and not lower than 5°C in winter; during the growing season, water thoroughly after the soil dries out. When the air is dry, you can spray water around the plant, but the leaf surface, especially the center of the leaf rosette, should not have standing water, otherwise it will cause heart rot; during the growing season, fertilize generally about once every 20 days. The growing seasons are spring and autumn. Water only after the potting soil has completely dried out. In summer, shade is needed and watering should be reduced. In winter, place it indoors in a sunny spot for care.
3) Propagation methods: mainly cuttings and division. Cuttings include leaf cuttings and stem cuttings. For leaf cuttings, lay a complete mature leaf flat on moist sandy soil, with the leaf surface facing up and the leaf back facing down. There's no need to cover with soil. Place in a cool, shaded area. After about 10 days, small leaf clusters and new roots will grow from the leaf base. Bury the roots in soil, then let it get more sunlight, water and fertilize appropriately, and gradually it will grow into a robust new plant. For stem cuttings, you can use single leaves, tiller branches, or top branches. The length of the cut stem is not limited, but the cut end must dry, then remove the lower leaves, and insert into a sand bed. After insertion, roots generally form in about 20 days. The cutting medium should not be too wet, otherwise the cut end will easily turn yellow and rot. When roots reach 2-3 cm, pot them up. August to October is better, with fast rooting and high survival rate. Leaf cuttings can also be used. Division is best done in spring.
I've had the idea of making a succulent plant illustrated guide for a long time. Before, I just simply saved images and changed the image names to the names of the succulent plants.
Actually, for me, growing succulent plants can only be considered a hobby. I don't want to become a succulent botanist myself, so I've always been lazily enjoying myself.
Over time, I found that I didn't recognize many varieties, and I couldn't even distinguish what family or genus they belonged to.
From an enthusiast's perspective, I don't really recommend everyone memorize what family and genus things belong to, because everyone's fun lies in growing and gardening.
However, I've found that whether in QQ groups or on Weibo, many friends don't understand the names and habits of succulent plants, and there are many repeated questions.
So I wanted to organize a succulent plant illustrated guide, to make it convenient for everyone to recognize and understand them, and also convenient for myself to look up information.
The content of the illustrated guide is relatively simple. After posting it on Weibo, the response was strong, and many friends raised various viewpoints.
I summarized them. If I were to write all the information into the illustrated guide, then I really would have become a botanist.
And collecting this information takes a very long time. You have to look things up, compare, and also combine it with your own cultivation experience.
So I gave up on most of the content directly, like Latin names and such. There's no need for ordinary enthusiasts to know that much, right!
Simply put, this set of illustrated guides I've organized mainly targets ordinary succulent plant enthusiasts:
1. Mainly for everyone's introductory understanding. Watering and sunlight care methods are for reference only.
2. Simple, easy to understand and intuitive, convenient to save and look up (I recommend everyone save the images and change the image names to the names of the succulent plants).
3. All images in the illustrated guide were taken by myself, and are also succulent plants I am currently growing.
4. In terms of content, it mainly marks out my usual care experience and some characteristics of succulent plants. (Blogger's region: Weihai, Shandong)
5. Since I'm not a professional either, mistakes are inevitable. If you spot any, you can reach me on Weibo @me, or send me a private message, and I'll check and correct them promptly.
6. I reserve the final right of interpretation for the images! This illustrated guide is not for commercial use, and anyone who casually steals the images for use will definitely be reported to the end!
[Succulent Plant FAQ]
Because the image content is limited, there is a lot of repeated information I haven't added. Here I'll answer everyone's questions in one place (I can't finish organizing it all at once, so it will be continuously updated):
① When are the growing season and dormant season for succulent plants?
Answer: Spring and autumn are the growing seasons for succulent plants, while summer and winter are the dormant seasons. However, due to regional and climatic conditions, in some areas they can also grow in summer and winter. For example: turning on the air conditioning in summer, or having heating in northern regions in winter, can both keep succulent plants growing.
② What exactly does "full sun" mean?
Answer: "Full sun" refers to the duration of sunlight, meaning that some succulent plants can receive sunlight all day. It does not mean placing them completely under the sun to bathe. In summer, some sun protection measures are still needed (shade netting).
③ Can the "scientific names" and "alternative names" both be labeled in the illustrated guide?
Answer: Because I'm not a professional plant researcher either, I'm also skeptical about some of the names online (many Chinese names are made up by sellers themselves), and I can't distinguish which names are truly correct. The Latin names are also too cumbersome, so the names in the illustrated guide are just the common, frequently used ones. If there are errors, I will check and correct them promptly.
④ What temperature is suitable for succulent plants to grow? At what temperatures in summer and winter do they go dormant?
Answer: For succulent plants, the most suitable growing temperature is 10°C-30°C. Of course, temperature can't be a constant value. When summer temperatures exceed 35°C, some succulent plants will enter dormancy, especially the "winter-growing type" (growing in winter). When the temperature reaches 40°C, almost all succulent plants will enter dormancy, and even the "summer-growing type" (growing in summer) will enter dormancy (no longer absorbing water). In winter, when temperatures drop below 5°C, some succulent plants will enter dormancy. 0°C is the freezing point, and water will slowly freeze. The leaves and stems of succulent plants are mostly water inside, so when the temperature drops below 0°C, the water inside the succulent plants will also slowly freeze, and the main plant body will certainly stop growing. At this point, you must stop watering.
⑤ Can the cultivation medium suitable for succulent plants be added to the illustrated guide?
Answer: I've already written about this in the pinned post on the homepage. From the mediums I've used so far, soft peat soil + granules is the most suitable. The ingredients of the "Liang Tu" (beautiful soil) I commonly use are also: peat soil + rice husk + perlite + vermiculite, etc. To save effort, I just use Liang Tu directly for cultivation each time. And almost all the succulent plants at home use the same uniform medium.
⑥ Does "stopping watering" in summer mean not watering at all? How long does this period roughly last?
Answer: The commonly mentioned "stopping watering" in summer is actually only for some succulent plants. Plants still need water, so during high summer temperatures, extend the watering interval to once a month, with a small amount being best. This lets the soil retain just a tiny bit of moisture. Succulent plants surviving in the wild also rely on moisture in the ground soil to get through summer, so they can survive for several months or even half a year without rainwater. But now that succulent plants are transplanted into homes, terracotta and similar pots can easily dry out completely. In summer, I sometimes still keep watering once a week or even once every 5 days. The duration mainly depends on the weather and temperature conditions. Once autumn arrives and temperatures start slowly dropping, you can increase the amount of watering.
⑦ Can the illustrated guide indicate "winter-growing type" (growing in winter) or "summer-growing type" (growing in summer)?
Answer: Considering that existing information is limited, many succulent plants are hard to determine which type they belong to. Only after personally cultivating and observing them can conclusions be drawn, so I haven't directly added this to the illustrated guide. However, for those I can confirm from existing information, I will definitely add them. The "winter-growing type" and "summer-growing type" don't differ much in the cultivation process. The growing seasons are still spring and autumn, and they still go dormant in summer and winter. So for ordinary enthusiasts, as long as you know how to care for them, that's enough~ For specifics, please refer to the answers to questions ④ and ⑥.
⑧ Looking at the illustrated guide, all the succulents have different watering and sunlight requirements. Can they be planted together? How do you care for those mixed plantings?
Answer: They can be planted together! And the combined effect is even more beautiful~ Succulents of different colors paired together look even prettier. For care, normal sunlight and watering are fine. I think mixed-planted succulents grow better and faster, perhaps because growing together gives them a sense of competition! But one thing to pay special attention to: when mixing succulent plants, try to choose the same family and genus for planting, because their habits are roughly the same, making them easier to manage. For example: mixing Echeveria types, mixing Sedum types, or you can also mix Sedum and Echeveria together, because they all belong to the Crassulaceae family. However, mixing Aizoaceae and Crassulaceae together is not so good, because Aizoaceae are more sensitive to water. After a while you'll find that you have to dig them out and rearrange them.
⑨ What is "fasciation"?
Answer: Fasciation refers to a common malformation mutation phenomenon in flowers and plants.
Fasciation mutation refers to certain varieties (cultivars) of succulent plants receiving unidentified external stimulation, causing their apical growing point to abnormally divide and double, forming many small growing points. These growing points then develop laterally and connect into a line, eventually growing into a flat fan shape or cockscomb-shaped band. Due to their strange morphology, fasciated mutant plants have higher ornamental value, and because they are rare, they are more precious than the original species (cultivar).