What conditions do houseplant hydroponic flowers need? Key points on temperature and light explained

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

What conditions do houseplant hydroponic flowers need? When growing hydroponic flowers at home, temperature, light, water quality, fertilizer and so on cannot be ignored. These factors can all affect the growth of aquatic flowers, so if you want to grow aquatic flowers well, you must master knowledge in these areas

1. Temperature

1. High-temperature aquatic flowers: mainly native to tropical plains, with a cultivation temperature of 16-30 degrees. For example, Victoria amazonica requires high temperature conditions; when the air temperature is below 20°C, the plant stops growing.

2. Medium- and low-temperature aquatic flowers: mainly native to warm temperate and temperate regions, with a cultivation temperature of 10-18 degrees, such as plants in the Nymphaeaceae, Araceae, Typhaceae, Trapaceae, Lythraceae, Potamogetonaceae and so on.

2. Light

You should know that plants all use light for photosynthesis. It can be said that light is one of the important elements affecting the normal growth and development of aquatic flowers; without light, they cannot provide energy for themselves. Because there are many kinds of aquatic flowers, their requirements for light intensity and light duration differ. Specifically, they can be divided into light-loving aquatic flowers, shade- and moisture-tolerant aquatic flowers, and intermediate aquatic flowers. According to the length of sunshine required for the growth and development of aquatic flowers, they can be divided into short-day aquatic flowers, long-day aquatic flowers, and day-neutral aquatic flowers, as follows:

1. Light-loving aquatic flowers: fully exposed to light conditions, such as Nelumbo, Nymphaea, Lythrum and so on.

2. Shade- and moisture-tolerant aquatic flowers: require 60%-80% shading, such as Ceratopteris thalictroides, Araceae plants, Cyperus and so on.

3. Intermediate aquatic flowers: require 40% shading and are not tolerant of high-temperature sun exposure in summer, such as Hydrocleys nymphoides, Alisma plantago-aquatica, Mentha and other aquatic flowers in this category.

4. Short-day aquatic flowers: short sunshine duration, weak light transmission, rapid development, such as Blyxa, Ottelia, Ceratopteris thalictroides and so on.

5. Long-day aquatic flowers: the longer the sunshine hours, the faster the development and the higher the seed-setting rate, such as Euryale, Victoria, Nymphaea, Nuphar and other aquatic flower plants planted in open ground.

6. Day-neutral aquatic flowers: low requirements for day length; growth, development and flowering are not affected by day length, such as Cyperus alternifolius, Saxifraga stolonifera, Monstera deliciosa and other aquatic flowers.

3. Water quality

Water is an indispensable condition for the growth of aquatic flowers. In addition to carbon and oxygen, the nutrients needed for the growth of hydroponic flowers are obtained by the roots from water.

4. Fertilizer

During the growth process, aquatic flowers need various nutrients and trace elements, such as potassium, calcium, sulfur, magnesium, manganese and so on, to maintain normal life activities. These nutrient elements have different functional advantages; for example, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are the main elements for photosynthesis.

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Ten questions on hydroponic flower techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be hydroponically grown, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have flowering affected under hydroponic conditions. Some plants are sensitive to oxygen deficiency and need air regularly pumped into the nutrient solution to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so suitable nutrient solution formulas should be adopted. Therefore, flower plants must undergo appropriate acclimation and adaptation before they can be hydroponically grown. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including golden
money tree, money tree, Peperomia tetraphylla, Sun God, Maranta, XIAOTIANSHI, Marian, Shanhaidai, golden barrel cactus and other cactus ball plants, as well as Anoectochilus formosanus, Sansevieria trifasciata and so on. Hydroponic flowers can go for long periods without watering and fertilizing, have no peculiar leaf smell, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, fluorine and so on. It is a colorless, odorless and non-toxic product, please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated liquids?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they can precipitate with each other and make the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure sufficient and balanced nutrient supply, compounds containing these non-toxic substances cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solutions currently sold on the market are only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower root system and should not be too much. In general, when the root system is relatively well developed, part of the root system should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air. This is very beneficial to the healthy growth of the root system. Do not add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either. If it is too little, the nutrient solution needs to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sun exposure?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving types, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, because household hydroponic flowers are usually placed in environments with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed regularly on a balcony with slightly stronger light. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers need a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower needs a corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to choose different nutrient solutions according to different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Office of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, internal plant type, orchid type and flowering type.

7. Can flowers cultivated directly in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-cultivated flowers and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in hydroponic root treatment liquid for about 20 minutes before they can be placed in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need feeding?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the small fish kept together with flowers only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If they are fed, it is instead easy to cause the fish to overeat and die. At the same time, adding feed can also easily make the nutrient solution turbid and reduce the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of flowers and fish.

9. When hydroponically growing flowers, should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the speed of water consumption by the plants. If the weather is dry and the plants are large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once every about 15-20 days; when replenishing, just add an appropriate amount of nutrient solution. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; only add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. How long is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated liquid for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible and do not place it where children can reach it.
Experience talk on household hydroponic flowers

As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-cultured flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, no odor, clean and hygienic. 2) No need to change pots or loosen soil, which can reduce labor for growing flowers. 3) Light in weight and can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible material selection, which can be reasonably matched according to indoor furnishings. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water and a high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for household hydroponic flowers, such as Aglaonema modestum, Dieffenbachia picta, Monstera deliciosa, Alocasia macrorrhizos, Epipremnum aureum, Dracaena sanderiana, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum comosum, Aloe, Commelina communis, Tradescantia zebrina, Coleus scutellarioides, Dracaena fragrans, Chamaedorea elegans, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia and so on. In addition, Salvia splendens, Rhododendron, Camellia japonica, Cyclamen, Hippeastrum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Euphorbia milii, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Hyacinthus and so on, these flowering plants also have good results when grown hydroponically. Nephrolepis cordifolia, Calendula officinalis, Petunia hybrida, Excoecaria cochinchinensis and so on have a low survival rate as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Containers. Any beautiful container that can hold water can be used. It is best to use transparent containers, such as beverage bottles (cut off the narrow neck), wine glasses, teacups, vases, fish tanks and so on. The top opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, texture and so on of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect before use. 2) Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite and so on. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and various shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies with flower species. For example, if the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be hydroponically grown all year round. Flowering plants are best hydroponically grown when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, Cyclamen, Hyacinthus, Rhododendron, Camellia japonica and so on are often hydroponically grown in early January, so that the full blooming period coincides with the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of warm spring and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1) Root-washing method. Select potted plants with full shape, vigorous growth and no pests or diseases, remove them from the pot and soil, wash the soil from the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that have already rotted or aged; for those with dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots; then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes; this both sterilizes and disinfects and can promote new root growth; afterward, proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water-cutting method. Select robust, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year and cut them off and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cutting position is often two or three millimeters below a stem node. The cut should be made smooth with a sharp knife (washed and disinfected beforehand with white liquor), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water used for hydroponics and water changes. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best; its water quality is clean, pollution-free, does not precipitate, and contains various trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Water changes. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed. At the same time, the root system produces mucus, the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning, and much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plants. Too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. Changes in water quality are directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once every about 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone. Too deep can easily cause oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow can easily cause water shortage in the root system and affect growth.

6. Addition of hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will appear in flowers. Along with the growth of flower plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in combination with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instruction manual should be read carefully. 2) Various special nutrient solutions must be used only for their intended purpose to avoid mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to Clivia, it will cause Clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also has a good effect, such as Epipremnum aureum, Dieffenbachia picta and so on.

Prevention and control techniques for pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers

Because of the particularity of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor to use large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these drugs can play a role in killing insects and sterilizing, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round water-soaked lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. After discovery, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Sultry high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, sunburn from strong sunlight, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, too high a nutrient solution concentration, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the liquid drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, and this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with separated nodes and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root hypoxia and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to separate and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with separated nodes and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still healthy upper branch at 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with separated nodes, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node; at this time it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Dracaena sanderiana, Epipremnum aureum, Cordyline fruticosa, Syngonium podophyllum and so on can all use this method.

Complete handbook for household hydroponic flowers

Four methods to obtain hydroponic plants

1. Remove flowers cultivated in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and switch to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into static water, and after rooting, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as Chlorophytum comosum and Guzmania; these small plantlets can be picked off and directly hydroponically grown.

4. For flowers that grow many tiller buds, such as Clivia and Bromeliaceae, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.

How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution

Household static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, are leak-proof and have no drainage holes at the bottom.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete mineral nutrients necessary for the growth of flowers and plants. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 milliliters).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel, pour in hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with distinctive charm.

When preparing nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, generally, drinking tap water can also be used to prepare nutrient solution. They have all undergone strict treatment, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (or low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically does not contain nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water contains nutrient elements in unstable forms as the composition of the water source changes. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has a stable and consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has an unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a relatively wide-mouthed bucket for a few days, and stir it several times with a wooden stick to remove chlorine. If water for changing is urgently needed, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as baking soda) to 10 kg of tap water and stir evenly, which can also achieve a chlorine removal effect.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can help flowers absorb trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, grow normally, and have emerald green leaves.

How to carry out foliar fertilization

Static hydroponics is a cultivation method under root hypoxia conditions and will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve the quality of flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-hole sprayer should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer liquid should not be lost; the back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers have luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, Zantedeschia aethiopica and so on, during the bud stage, use a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution to spray the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Temperature requirements of hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one way of cultivating flowers; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers and plants used in static hydroponics are mostly native to Latin American rainforests, or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded valley areas, and belong to cold-intolerant flower plants. Generally, when the air temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon can also occur. Some flowers are relatively cold-resistant, such as Hedera helix, Vinca major, Senecio and so on, and grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the air temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and the leaf margins have scorched brown spots, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperature, such as Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Coleus scutellarioides and so on. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics. Of course, this point is also related to the decrease in dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution as temperature rises. Keep the temperature at 15°C to 28°C, suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light needed by hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus scutellarioides and Codiaeum variegatum, will lose the color of the leaves in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but without direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated regularly. This work can be completed together with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will prevent the flower from growing toward one side and keep the top shoot upright and growing upward.

Humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do it, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers; the evaporated water can also increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors. If doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if doors and windows are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases. Their growth will become worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection and let outside fresh air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and withered tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. They should be ventilated in a timely manner, which is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display even more need this work done well.

Prevention and control of pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics breaks away from infection by soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly disinfected vacuum environment and can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of flowers. Flowers that are removed from pots, washed of roots and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae and so on. If they are not carefully checked and removed, hidden dangers will remain.

Because of the particularity of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor to use large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these drugs can play a role in killing insects and sterilizing, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round water-soaked lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. After discovery, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Sultry high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, sunburn from strong sunlight, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, too high a nutrient solution concentration, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the liquid drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, and this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with separated nodes and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root hypoxia and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to separate and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with separated nodes and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still healthy upper branch at 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with separated nodes, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node; at this time it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Dracaena sanderiana, Epipremnum aureum, Cordyline fruticosa, Syngonium podophyllum and so on can all use this method.

How many hydroponic flowers are appropriate for display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. It is beneficial to display a few plants appropriately. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are placed, flowers and people will compete for oxygen at night. So how many flowers are appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters of room area. By this standard, for a room of 50 square meters to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of various sizes can both satisfy viewing and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.

How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their cleanliness, beauty and ease of care. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "musts":

First, choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types not suitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, before long they will gradually die because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all quite suitable for hydroponics, such as Cyperus alternifolius, Syngonium podophyllum, Epipremnum aureum, Philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena sanderiana and so on.

Second, choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, being prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little protection include Monstera deliciosa, Tradescantia pallida, Aloe, Chlorophytum comosum, Cyperus alternifolius, Chamaedorea elegans, Rhapis excelsa and so on.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-cultivated flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal in growth, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so when purchasing, they must be carefully identified. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants without pests or diseases. Plants with upright and spirited branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it does not need extra care. Usually you only need to spray water on the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers have completely broken away from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not pollute our living environment like soil-cultured flowers due to pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are separated from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels and materials for planting, and can appreciate not only flowers and leaves but also the usually unseen process of root growth and their various beautiful forms, very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate

Because the adaptation technology for plant roots from a soil environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through planting baskets to produce aquatic roots, nor does it need early computer or electric field mutation induction. Only very simple technical treatment is needed, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water-grown roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit space and increases their competitiveness in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because no planting baskets are used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH value of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically. The number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly more than 400. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be hydroponically grown, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, can grow flowers and fish together

The "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term raising, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results. Practice has proved that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, mosquitoes and insects are not easy to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into your soil-cultivated potted flowers at home, there will be even more unexpected surprises. Facts have proved that the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of hydroponic flower types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions such as water, oxygen, nutrients, light and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in a timely manner, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissues in their bodies, and the oxygen produced during photosynthesis can be sent through the air-conducting tissues to the root system for respiration; some flowers have aerial roots at stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air; some flowers, although they do not have air-conducting tissues and aerial roots for absorbing oxygen, are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, some flowers cannot have their normal growth and development needs met by the oxygen content in water, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and do not blindly cultivate them, lest hydroponics fail.

Flower types adapted to hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with certain ornamental value; after soil-cultivated plants are washed with water, most of their original root systems can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include Epipremnum aureum, Aglaonema modestum, Dieffenbachia picta, Aglaonema commutatum, Aglaonema 'Golden Queen', Philodendron bipinnatifidum, mini Monstera deliciosa, Monstera deliciosa, Spathiphyllum, Philodendron 'Green Emerald', Philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Syngonium podophyllum, Alocasia macrorrhizos, Anthurium andraeanum, Philodendron 'Emerald Gem' and so on.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as Tradescantia pallida, Tradescantia spathacea, Lophatherum gracile, Tradescantia zebrina and so on, all of which can root and grow rapidly in water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as Aloe, Aloe arborescens, Haworthia fasciata, Chlorophytum comosum, Cordyline fruticosa, Dracaena draco, Dracaena umbraculifera, Sansevieria trifasciata, Agave americana, Dracaena sanderiana 'Golden Edge', Scilla, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Edge', Ophiopogon intermedius 'Silver Edge' and so on.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively well adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as Aeonium arboreum, Aeonium 'Furong', Pachyphytum, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Bryophyllum pinnatum and so on.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include Aucuba japonica, Cyperus alternifolius, Coleus, Gynura aurantiaca, blue pine, Begonia maculata, Begonia masoniana, Philodendron 'Emerald Green', Clivia miniata, Paphiopedilum, Codiaeum variegatum, Senecio cineraria, Senecio articulatus, Pereskia, bamboo, Guzmania, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus spicatus, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Euphorbia, Euphorbia trigona, Vinca major variegata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Senecio, Hedera helix, Hedera helix, Rhapis excelsa, Chamaedorea elegans, etc.

When selecting hydroponic flower species, in addition to considering their ability to adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high requirements for overwintering temperature. For example, some species of Dieffenbachia and Codiaeum variegatum require an overwintering temperature above 15°C; Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Dracaena sanderiana, and Dracaena species also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter, this is of course not a problem, but for most households, getting these flowers safely through the cold winter is still very difficult. Although some flowers will not cause the entire plant to die after overwintering, due to low-temperature freezing damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, and the leaf tips or leaf margins will scorch, or new scorch spots will appear on the leaves, and may even cause a large amount of leaf drop or partial death of branches and leaves, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there is no stable condition, attention must be paid to selecting flower species with stronger cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as Rohdea japonica, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Rhapis excelsa, Agave, Aucuba japonica, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Scilla, Liriope platyphylla, etc., which can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Monstera deliciosa, Tradescantia pallida, Bambusa multiplex, Aloe, Chlorophytum comosum, Pachyphytum, Cyperus alternifolius, Gynura aurantiaca, Senecio cineraria, Chloranthus spicatus, Euphorbia trigona, Vinca major variegata, Hedera helix, Chamaedorea elegans, etc., which can overwinter safely with slight protection during winter.

Of course, some flowers such as Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Emerald Green', Syngonium podophyllum, Epipremnum aureum, Sansevieria trifasciata, Codiaeum variegatum, etc., although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow quickly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation in warm spring.

Shade tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that prefer semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, Codiaeum variegatum, Tradescantia pallida, and Tradescantia zebrina need sufficient scattered light, but Spathiphyllum, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Aglaonema modestum, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' all have very strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different lighting conditions within rooms differ, suitable flower species should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement location to ensure normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental quality. When light is insufficient, it can cause the branches and leaves of the plant to grow excessively, stems to become thin, internodes to become longer, leaves to become smaller, deformed, lose green color and lose their proper luster, colored stripes on leaves to become lighter and fade, and even cause a large amount of leaf drop, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental quality of the flowers.

Techniques for growing Chlorophytum comosum in water

Chlorophytum comosum, with fresh green leaves and orchid-like leaf shape, is fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower that people love. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. For a single-layer bottle, take a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle and plant the Chlorophytum comosum in it. For a double-layer bottle, take a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottomless bottle as the lower layer, plant the Chlorophytum comosum in the upper plastic sieve, and let the roots of the Chlorophytum comosum hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove a potted or ground-planted Chlorophytum comosum from its pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from its roots, wash its roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, leave the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, diseased and pest-damaged leaves), and leave healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared Chlorophytum comosum into the bottle, tightly bind the bottle mouth with sponge and insert a plastic straw for water supply. Let the Chlorophytum comosum plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the roots of the Chlorophytum comosum soak in the water to grow. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the Chlorophytum comosum on the plastic sieve, let the roots pass through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, put ceramic material or gravel (large particles) in the sieve, let the Chlorophytum comosum stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the Chlorophytum comosum indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, and input water through the straw until full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week. When changing the water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, add clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Add flower nutrient solution through the roots by adding water and changing water at the same time. For foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves with diluted flower nutrient solution once every 3 days.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Chlorophytum comosum blooms half a year after potting. When blooming, do not spray water on the flowers to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut the flowers from the branch tips to promote reblooming.

Outstanding plants for static hydroponics

Plants in the Araceae family include 105 genera and more than 2,500 species. They originated in tropical Asia and arose in water areas or swamps in forest regions. Through a long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, etc. Although the plants in the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop aerenchyma under stress environments.
For terrestrial plants in static hydroponics, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting plant species, that is, those that have close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system believes that the most primitive genus in Araceae is Acorus, and the most advanced is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in water environments. Pistia is distributed in freshwater waters of almost all continents of the Old and New Worlds. It is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, and with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, Calla palustris, and Colocasia esculenta.
As an aquatic plant, the evolved Pistia is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation”, a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, forming in appearance a “negation” of their aquatic ancestors. Finally, they transform into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia. This return is another “negation”, which is the dialectical law of “negation of the negation”. It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are outstanding plants for static hydroponics.
2. Araceae belongs to Arales, which has only two families. The other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, which consists of floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor and have an extremely close kinship with each other.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, following an approximately spiral curve.
3. The relationship of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system believes that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the swamp-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system believes that Arales shares a common ancestor with Arecales and Balanophorales (primitive lilies), and can be traced farther back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system believes that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlations with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlations with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants outstanding plants for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, due to management and other reasons, plants often suffer root rot. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will worsen water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with the nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted. Second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also have rotted and deteriorated. Third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and changes color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone, and the epidermis will easily tear off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, it should be cut off promptly. Generally, root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tip. After pruning, continue until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully; if root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities - bottles and jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cartons), etc., with slight preparation, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This not only suits local conditions and makes full use of materials, but can also green the surrounding environment, with quite a delightful feeling of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage cartons, etc. They were originally used to hold liquids. As long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be used as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cups: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits about 1/3 into the mouth as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a “well”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup so that the root system can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also has a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, used for clothing lining. Gently rinse off the soil from the hydroponic seedling or purchased potted flower with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (scraps cut from shoulder pads for jackets or sofa and chair cushions), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as thermal insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white) to thicken it, so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are available, floral foam can also be appropriately cut to serve as anchoring material. Soak the non-woven fabric roll wrapped around the root system together with the exposed root system into a bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. Note that the nutrient solution level must maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. Through the capillary action of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system for nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid level and the bottom of the planting cup can be larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae and competing with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by direct sunlight exposure, it is best to take shade measures or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.

2. Boxes and cartons

1. Box body: Usually white hard polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock absorption, or corrugated cardboard boxes and wooden boxes with a certain strength, can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the bottom (body) of the box has holes, it can be leveled with a wooden board or foam board. Line the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is not light-transmissive, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also functions as a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same size as the box and about 2.5 cm thick to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Open a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter on the board. As with bottles and jars, it is sufficient if the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it while about 1/2 of the cup height is exposed. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6 to 16 holes. In addition, open a small hole 2 cm in diameter on the side of the upper cover near the inner side of the box body, for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution during normal use.

3. Planting cups: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5 to 3 cm smaller on all four sides than the net inner area of the box and 2.5 to 3 cm thick as the floating board. Regularly open some small holes 1 to 2 cm in diameter on it to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm thick when dry), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25 to 50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board as a material for capillary absorption of nutrient solution. If these items really cannot be obtained, medical sterilized degreased gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the absorbent cotton layer is about 6 cm larger on all four sides than the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from the four sides of the floating board (like an apron) and soak into the nutrient solution to absorb it, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant root system can stretch freely on the floating board and have more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate nutrient solution and oxygenate.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of initial planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must definitely leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3 to 5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogenic infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to complete replacement.

Requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow good growth. A simple method is to spray the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For flowers with firmer leaves that have a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia miniata, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For larger flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors. If doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if doors and windows are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and falling leaves and new shoots becoming thin, weak, and shriveled. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection and let outside fresh air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course reach the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner, which is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers displayed especially need to do this work well.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Codiaeum variegatum, will lose the color of the leaf surface in a relatively weak light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain colorful leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessels and replacing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers overwinter safely

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues will become necrotic below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In southern China, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If extreme low-temperature weather occurs for a few days, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In northern China, because most indoors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, after hydroponic flowers grow for a period of time, new nutrient solution must be replaced. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. Soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and need to change soil once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for Cyclamen

Growing Cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees Cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming Cyclamen plants multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic Cyclamen is not difficult. First, select a satisfactory Cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponic Cyclamen. Once the preparation work is complete, you can begin making hydroponic Cyclamen. For hydroponic Cyclamen, remove the purchased Cyclamen potted flower together with the substrate (flower soil) from the pot, place it under a faucet and rinse the substrate clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. You can also place the plant together with the substrate in a basin filled with water, rinse the substrate off in the water, and then wash it clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, movements must be gentle, avoiding damage to the Cyclamen root system as much as possible. The rinsed clean Cyclamen plant can then be placed in the prepared hydroponic container, add water, and a beautiful hydroponic Cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer needs to be added to the water for cultivating Cyclamen. The nutrients in the Cyclamen tuber can allow the Cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water level must be kept below the tuber. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water level.

In fact, in hydroponic Cyclamen, the Cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic Cyclamen distinctive and outstanding, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination of Cyclamen plants. This all depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Exposed-root hydroponic method for Hoya

Hoya has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through exposed-root hydroponic experiments, it has the following characteristics: ① labor-saving; ② hygienic; ③ fewer pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed, etc.

The exposed-root hydroponic method is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-cultivated Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and diseased and pest-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few beautiful river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day. After one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month to promote growth, flowering, and extend the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between flower hydroponics and water cultivation

In recent years, some water-cultivated and hydroponic flowers have become favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and convenient to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-cultivated and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people confuse the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water cultivation generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it, without supplying nutrients. Flowers suitable for water cultivation mainly include narcissus, tulips, hyacinths, lucky bamboo, etc. To make water-cultivated flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brightly, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide nutrients needed during their growth process; second, to change water frequently, insisting on changing water once every 2 to 3 days (lucky bamboo once every 7 to 10 days), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third, to maintain sufficient sunlight so that they grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, on the other hand, fix the plant roots on the cover plate or floating board of a flower pot, soak the root system in water, and the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so flower hydroponics is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structure of plants suitable for hydroponics are suitable for normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include Clivia miniata, Chlorophytum comosum, Schlumbergera, Dracaena fragrans, Rohdea japonica, Alocasia, Monstera deliciosa, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Tradescantia zebrina, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, etc.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as Clivia miniata and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, Anthurium, and Hippeastrum, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed. Root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultivated plants, which are distributed in a network. After aquatic mutation, the plant's aquatic root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants will become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches will be more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acid, or alkali. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and note that the pH value should be controlled between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic technology

Flower hydroponics is one of the common types of soilless cultivation. There are many methods. Several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: The characteristic is that the plant root system is fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution flows; the nutrient solution mixes with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: Nutrient film technique was developed from plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution can be placed in a plastic bag to cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvement was made: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film and laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside to wrap the plant, forming an internal dark space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, and the cost is low; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant root system. The mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: The aqueous solution can use a glass canning jar. Wrap the surrounding of the bottle with black plastic film, or coat it completely with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, to the extent that the inside of the bottle is not light-transmissive. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae breeding. In summer, wrap a layer of white paper around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, open a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, but it must not be too full; leave pores for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water propagation to promote rooting, then nutrient solution is not necessary; just inject water, and after roots grow, replace with nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowering plants, change it once a week during the peak growth period in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks during the non-growth season.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening to fully expose the root system to air. After a period of adaptation, aeration can be omitted for more than 1 month continuously.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water must often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, it can be prepared by yourself. The formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Monopotassium phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-6.5)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; monopotassium phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, cupric chloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL water, then dilute to 1000 mL.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

① Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable environment it will root, sprout, and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat without longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots and insert them into water. Epipremnum aureum, lucky bamboo, etc. are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed through soil cultivation (or other substrate cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and change to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. Place the washed flowers in a prepared vessel, and inject tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Initially change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and vessel. After one week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

③ Tiller bud peeling method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as Clivia miniata and bromeliads. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Select larger tiller buds, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, peel the tiller bud from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protect the roots of the tiller bud), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate by hydroponics.

④ Runner small plantlet picking method: Some flowers grow runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets. Most small plantlets have a small amount of fully developed roots, such as Chlorophytum comosum and Guzmania. Taking advantage of this characteristic of flowers, picking formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa, Clivia miniata, Epipremnum aureum, Tillandsia, Aglaonema modestum, Tradescantia spathacea, lucky bamboo, Chlorophytum comosum, and bulb flowers such as tulips, lilies, hyacinths, Hippeastrum, and gladiolus.

Guide to difficult points in summer care of hydroponic flowers

1. Where are the difficult points in getting hydroponic flowers through summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers use non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution) to cultivate ornamental plants. At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/L, and the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers, which may cause root rot, wilted branches and leaves, and even death of the entire flower plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing extreme heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass through summer.

Water cultivation of silver-edged grass

2. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, broadly summarized as chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several effective methods that are easy to operate.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and it can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and at most no more than 7 days. When replacing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and cut old roots shorter to promote new roots.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed, new nutrient solution should be replaced immediately.

2. Vibration oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers in smaller vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, vibration can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shake more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution and poor root development, the vibration oxygenation method is not suitable, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/L, while in static water it is only 1 mg/L. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is a flower cultivation vessel, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipe. During operation, the nutrient solution circulates in the pipe, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar”, and their growth is obviously better than static hydroponics.

For the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers, cleaning and changing the solution are generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the vessel

If you are growing hydroponic flowers and also have a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, and put an air stone into the vessel of the static hydroponic flowers to aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, so as not to splash the nutrient solution out). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen also works quite well.

3. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flowers chosen for hydroponics are mostly shade-tolerant foliage plants and plants grown for both their flowers and leaves, such as Syngonium podosum, Rohdea japonica 'Baiyu', Spathiphyllum, Anthurium, and Bromeliads. These flowers like warmth and humidity, tolerate a little shade, and dislike high temperature and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits or the environmental factors they need. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, cooler temperatures, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not keep them in too much shade either, lest photosynthesis be blocked, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaves become thin. This can cause the leaves of flowers with colored patches and patterns to lose their luster.

4. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner. Too fast an airflow will damage the branches and leaves, causing leaves to curl in mild cases and scorched edges and withering in severe cases. You should also consider that flowers require a higher temperature during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night, the ambient temperature becomes higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner was on, which is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaves to increase ambient humidity, and place the flowers farther from the air outlet of the air conditioner. If the temperature difference between day and night is not large, there is no problem.

5. What should be done if hydroponic flowers develop root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continues to rise, the water temperature also rises, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution so that the dissolved concentration is too high may also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in Dracaena of the Liliaceae family, such as Cordyline fruticosa, Dracaena marginata (fine-leaf dragon tree), and Dracaena concinna.

The following methods can restore the growth of flowers with root rot:

① Remove all the rotten roots completely. If the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

② Soak the pruned flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10 to 20 minutes to sterilize them.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Put the washed flowers back into the original vessel and grow them in clean water (the vessel should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1 to 2 days, using only clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the number of water changes can be reduced. After 10 to 15 days of care, new roots can begin to sprout.

⑥ When new roots first sprout, still grow them in clean water. Once the temperature stabilizes at 18 to 25°C, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

6. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the hydroponic cultivation of flowers. Especially in summer, when the temperature is high, the vessel is highly transparent, the environment is bright, or the nutrient solution is left unchanged for too long, algae can multiply in large numbers. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, causing the quality of the nutrient solution to decline. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the vessel, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace it with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, scientists in China are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae and is called a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, putting a small amount of "algae-eating insects" into the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to cover the vessel of the hydroponic flowers and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

7. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a method of soilless cultivation in which the flower roots are anchored in water (or a special plant nutrient solution), also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a matching plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If you are growing five or six bottles, or even more than a dozen bottles, of hydroponic flowers of various species at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matching plant nutrient solution for each kind of flower. For simplicity, you can choose to use a general-purpose plant nutrient solution.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions usually contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, and the scope of application is wide. They are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, are non-toxic and harmless, and their pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many kinds of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution cultivation or only clean water cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at temperatures around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, Spathiphyllum, Epipremnum aureum, mini Monstera, Philodendron 'Red Emerald', and Philodendron, using nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth vigor and enhancing ornamental quality. For flowers such as Coleus, Begonia maculata, and Bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to pass the summer safely.

When mixing the nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not increase the concentration at will. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers sprouting under hydroponic conditions has changed, becoming looser than under soil cultivation, with larger cells. The cell walls become thinner, and the roots directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution. Too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to the growth of the flowers.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

8. Can soil-cultivated flowers be changed to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Changing soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15 to 25°C, which is suitable for flower growth, and the flowers easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Choose varieties that are more closely related to moisture-loving flowers. ② Choose flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at temperatures around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Araceae plants such as Syngonium podosum, mini Monstera, Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Green Giant', Epipremnum aureum, and some Bromeliaceae flowers have a relatively high survival rate when changed from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, and their roots rarely rot. After 15 to 20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When changing from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots should be cleaned off thoroughly. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage or minimizing it, and cultivate them in a relatively large vessel. Change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2 to 3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate them with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic cultivation method for lucky bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as Wanshou bamboo, native to Brazil and western Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, without branching. Leaves are long lanceolate, dark green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edge lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edge lucky bamboo, also known as edged bamboo dracaena, is a compact plant whose leaf edges are bordered with silvery-white longitudinal stripes.

Habits

Likes high temperature and high humidity, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 10 degrees. In summer, avoid direct sunlight, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it will cause the leaf tips to scorch. During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

2: It is suitable for ample diffused light. When light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic cultivation method for anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as Anthurium andraeanum and lampstand flower.

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. The flower stalk grows from the leaf axil. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Likes high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment, and avoids direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees, and it must be kept above 10 degrees for overwintering.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter it needs heating to keep warm.

2: Likes relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method.

Hydroponic cultivation method for azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used a solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. Under soilless cultivation, the crown structure was compact, the number of flowers was greater, the flower diameter was larger, and there were fewer pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality, but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor. It is a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of the substrate

Azalea roots are very fine and require a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part pearl sand, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with a 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover it with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it repeatedly with clean water, and after air-drying, mix it evenly with a 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover it with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at about 5, and spraying a low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: add 2 grams of agricultural compound fertilizer to 1 liter of water, then add 0.5 grams of magnesium sulfate; this is the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 grams of disodium edetate, 15 grams of ferrous sulfate, 4 grams of manganese sulfate, 6 grams of boric acid, 0.2 grams of zinc sulfate, 0.1 grams of copper sulfate, and 0.2 grams of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 milliliter of the trace element mother solution to 1 liter of the standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: add 1 gram of urea, 1 gram of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 grams of boric acid, and 0.1 grams of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration, but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally a bit more than in soil cultivation, as long as the substrate is kept moist. At this time, it is exactly the period of flower bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, so the fertilizer requirement is relatively large; water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is large; in addition to watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilizer amount can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cools, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote robust growth of flower buds. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so it is not suitable to fertilize; just water appropriately according to how dry or wet the substrate is. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic cultivation method for broadleaf lady palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, and jointed like bamboo, with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4~10 segments. Dioecious.

Habits

Likes a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20~30 degrees, and in winter it should be kept above 4 degrees; it can withstand short periods of low temperature around 0 degrees.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Choose a large, dense clump. First take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep a certain plant shape for each divided plant. Then repot them, water thoroughly, place them in a semi-shaded, humid place, and frequently spray water on the leaves. After they resume growth, they can be transferred to normal care.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they will sprout in the spring of the following year.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak it easily produces yellow leaves, and when ventilation is poor it breeds parasitic pests.

2: During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

How to obtain hydroponic material

It is suitable for potted root washing. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture, and the roots are not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, taking as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic cultivation method for purple velvet plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves being densely covered with fine purple-red hairs like velvet. The purple velvet plant is bright, beautiful, and elegant in color, and is an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when it is too shady, the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10 degrees.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, choose sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long branch tips as cuttings, and after cutting, place them in a shaded, humid place; they can root in 2~3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch them promptly to encourage lateral branches to sprout.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in more than 10 days. But at high summer temperatures, the roots easily rot.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches grow to an appropriate height, pinch them promptly to encourage new shoots to sprout.

Hydroponic cultivation method for parlor palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a dwarf plant form. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20~40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and full of luster.

Habits

Likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20~30 degrees. At 13 degrees it enters dormancy, and the minimum winter overwintering temperature is 3 degrees.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn withered and yellow, but when it is too shady the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor palm is most beautiful when 30~50 cm in plant form. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces its ornamental value. When cultivating it, small plants can be grown below.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow in a few days.

Hydroponic cultivation method for cactus

We know that cactus is favored by people for its unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because cactus uses traditional cultivation methods, it has problems such as being dirty and difficult to manage. More people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now cactus cultivation has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, we should choose a cactus with a robust body. The key is to choose a plant whose lower part of the root stem protrudes downward. Cactus grafted and cultivated with Sanling sword is easier to hydroponically cultivate.

2: Processing

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots under the body, and require the cut to be smooth. Then rinse off the soil attached to the root stem with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and processed cactus at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, add nutrient solution below, and the height of the nutrient solution should just touch the root stem. In production, we recommend making a glass water tank 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent vessels make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root stem). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to dig several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing Golden Barrel cactus, you can cut off the mouth of a used purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the Golden Barrel cactus can be exposed from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat-bodied container with nutrient solution). Insert the Sanling sword into the triangular holes, and at this time all the roots of the Sanling sword just touch the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the vessel, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby speed up the growth of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially used for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and turn on the power to realize circulating oxygenation through the flow of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the well-planted cactus in an environment with relatively strong diffused light, keep the temperature above 20 degrees, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. Immediately replace the nutrient solution after water roots appear.

Note:

During the induction process of cactus, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the body, as it easily causes the body to rot and die.

What should be noted when hydroponically cultivating clivia at home

Hydroponic clivia is a hygienic and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating it at home, note:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. You can use a glass bottle, or a non-toxic plastic bottle or ceramic container. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the diameter should not be too large.

② The cultivation solution. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when cultivating in clean water, attention should be paid to foliar fertilization to supply the nutrients needed for clivia growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs to have its solution changed regularly. The number of solution changes depends on the weather. When the temperature is relatively low, it can be changed about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, it can be changed once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically hydroponically cultivate amaryllis

In early winter, choose one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have flowered or have not yet flowered, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green parts, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the paste-like substance at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and then put them into a flower vessel. The flower vessel can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated amaryllis bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must be left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm lower than the upper opening of the flower vessel. Finally, place it in a well-lit indoor spot. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7~10 days it will begin to grow leaves and roots. The water in the pot should always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2~3 cm, fertilizer needs to be replenished promptly. Every 10~20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for conventional care. In this way, bulbs treated by hydroponics will bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the summer flowering period when flowers are scarce.

Technical Management of Hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also known as soilless cultivation or nutrient solution culture, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solutions and supporting equipment instead of soil to grow crops. To anchor the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert solid substrates such as sand, gravel, peat, and perlite, which is why it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, and so on.
Since humans began farming, crops have always been grown in soil, which is why the English word for agriculture is "agriculture," a combination of "agr" (soil) and "culture" (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used three different types of water - rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate - to grow mint. The mint grown in the garden soil leachate grew the fastest, leading him to conclude that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to the technical limitations of the time, Woodward did not carry out further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop conducted the first precise soilless cultivation experiments, successfully growing plants with artificial nutrient solutions made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation techniques. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into substrate-based hydroponic flowers and substrate-free hydroponic flowers. Substrate-based hydroponics refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; substrate-free hydroponic flowers are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, misting hydroponic flowers, drip irrigation under nutrient film, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured purely by aesthetic appeal and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most stylish, beautiful, and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct hydroponic form.

3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to successful hydroponic flower cultivation?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, and nutrient solution injection timing in real time, and dedicated technicians use pH meters and conductivity meters to monitor the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements. However, in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, there would be no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be substrate-free soilless cultivation. Without a substrate, plants are prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants to avoid root rot, odor, and off-odors while growing normally even under oxygen-deficient conditions. In addition, the hygiene requirements of the home demand that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and must be non-toxic. Furthermore, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution be able to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that plants can grow well in office and home environments. Moreover, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a plant expert, so the nutrient solution must also be easy to use, easy to handle, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare. Moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies treat their nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so the nutrient solution formulas available from public sources are only theoretical or experimental formulas that can only serve as reference material and cannot be used for production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environments can be determined with just one try. You only need to see whether the displayed plants are growing vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because as the saying goes: "Practice is the sole criterion for testing truth!"

4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and tissues begin to necrose below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not drop below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, this can be solved by placing a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a localized microclimate. In the north, because most homes have heating, the safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be ensured.

5. Can hydroponic flowers only be certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all common popular flowers can be hydroponically grown. However, in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown. In homes with balconies, a wider variety of species is suitable.

6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a display of fish kept in hydroponic flowers, precisely to convey this information to customers.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for keeping fish, and due to the limited volume, the fish species should also be chosen selectively. Fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Fish with strong aggression or destructiveness should not be kept in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage plant roots; delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even keeping them in dedicated aquariums is difficult, let alone in relatively poor-condition small vases. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers. When feeding, it is the same as feeding fish in a regular fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which facilitates the respiration of plant roots, fish generally do not experience oxygen deficiency in the nutrient solution, so there is no need to install aeration equipment on days that are not particularly hot.

7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solutions are all highly concentrated liquids and must be diluted before use. For dilution, tap water is generally fully sufficient and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be conducted to understand the mineral composition in the water. If a certain mineral content in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King causes the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time to prevent root hair damage caused by sudden temperature changes, which can cause the plant to wilt.

8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that utilizes the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction of sufficient moisture. This is demonstrated when a plant's surface soil lacks water; to protect itself, the plant's root tips grow deeper into the soil to absorb the water needed for plant growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality. However, plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow in a more chaotic manner without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, with a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, the bottom of the bonsai will show roots growing toward the water. At this point, you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can remove a bonsai that has already grown water roots from its pot and use a planting basket to secure the plant, decorate it with stones or ornaments, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that now, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clean water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become less and less. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolic processes, harmful substances in the water increase. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need fresh nutrient solution. This is actually the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers needing fertilization and annual soil replacement. Hydroponic flowers need shorter water change intervals during the vigorous growing season of spring and summer, and longer intervals during the slow-growing autumn and winter.

10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become increasingly weak or fail to grow vigorously?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or insufficient light. If these factors are ruled out, check whether the nutrient solution level is too high, preventing the plant roots from breathing normally and causing oxygen deficiency. If none of these are the cause, then we suggest you visit a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the Hydroponic Flower Market - Distinguishing Genuine from Fake Hydroponic Flowers

Currently, many companies are recruiting franchisees for hydroponic flower stores, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing claims its franchise stores will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express too many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, having witnessed everything, I cannot help but voice some complaints. This is because the scams involved not only harm consumer interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Currently, it is the low-temperature season, when plant respiration is weak. Washing plant roots and soaking them directly in water can keep them alive for a period of time. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can survive in water for 1-2 months. But when the weather turns hot and plant physiological respiration intensifies, oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately occur. A hydroponic piece costing tens or hundreds [of yuan] to buy and bring home is just a fleeting bloom, not only harming consumer interests but also greatly affecting the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to expose the "deception tactics" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. When winter comes, these plants' growth rate slows down and respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After washing the roots and soaking them directly in water, no adverse reactions can be seen from the plant for a while, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water. They can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory functions are severely hindered. When the weather turns hot, the roots will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul-smelling, and rot. For other plants with stronger terrestrial characteristics, this method simply cannot work, which is the main reason why they can currently only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction solution, I think, would be better and more honestly called "deception solution." It is simply impossible for plants to undergo structural changes in tissue organization within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a commercial gimmick. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique, it could dominate the market and franchising would truly be meaningful. But the current type of franchising can be described as a money scam. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content whatsoever - it is just washing roots and soaking them in water. Even a fool could figure it out at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has been developed over decades and is no longer a proprietary technology of any single company. Using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market. Other hydroponic flower stores can operate just as well, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once you pay the franchise fee, it is as good as gone down the drain. Genuine hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings with washed roots. "Bare-root flowers" would be a more accurate description.

3. Note: Araceae plants, in late autumn, winter, and early spring, can survive in water for a period of time after washing the roots and soaking them. You might as well try it - there is absolutely no need for any "deception solution."

I have been researching hydroponics for many years and have visited several countries with more advanced hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be described as full of charlatans of all kinds, a mixed bag of genuine and fake. However, in the end, these franchise scams will be eliminated by history and science. I remind everyone to keep your eyes open and not be misled by "deception solutions."

How to Distinguish Genuine from Fake Hydroponic Flowers

Genuine versus fake hydroponic flowers is essentially the difference between induced and non-induced flowers. Currently, many hydroponic flower vendors do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. They approach it only from the angle of commercial gimmickry and personal profit, passing off ordinary soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants to sell, fooling consumers and causing very negative social impact. Some citizens buy at high prices, and before long the plants die from physiological incompatibility, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. To address this problem, buyers can distinguish genuine from fake from the following aspects to avoid being deceived.

A. Examine root morphology to distinguish genuine from fake: Induced hydroponic flowers typically have fibrous adventitious roots. They do not have the distinction of taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs like soil-grown roots - that is, they do not exist in a multi-branched secondary root state. Even if there is branching, it is only a small number of forked roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few branching levels and a simple root structure, which is its most obvious characteristic. In addition, for some plants that originally have radicles, after induction, the number of primary adventitious roots increases significantly, meaning the proportion of roots greatly increases, and the root system is numerous and well-developed, resembling a beard.

B. Examine root color to distinguish genuine from fake: Water roots formed through aquatic induction mostly have the characteristic of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for varieties that exhibit their natural root color, their water roots are noticeably lighter in color than soil roots - such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, light brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots, where cells have not undergone or have undergone little suberization and lignification from cell wall thickening.

C. Examine root completeness to distinguish genuine from fake: Roots induced by aquatic induction undergo new growth and differentiation starting from primary adventitious roots, all completed in a water environment, giving the root system completeness. In contrast, some soil-cultivated plants, despite careful washing, always have minor damage or severely damaged residual roots. This root completeness is difficult to achieve with soil-washed seedlings.

D. Examine water clarity to distinguish genuine from fake: Fake hydroponic products made from soil-washed seedlings, because the roots have not developed adaptability to water, will under anaerobic conditions undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visual observation shows a turbid, unclear appearance - that is, water quality deterioration or foul odor, followed by root rot and eventually plant death.

E. Leaf angle can also distinguish genuine from fake: Especially for many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction, their leaf insertion angle is noticeably more flat than soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation - that is, epinastic growth leading to increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the Dissolved Oxygen Content of Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions

Apart from light, temperature, humidity, and other environmental factors that are identical to soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers have vastly different management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen - Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source. Generally, tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water undergoes filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used for growing hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, with severe eutrophication and possibly vastly different ion concentrations. If any one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage or poison plants to death, so they are not suitable as water sources for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use low-concentration specialized nutrient solutions based primarily on nitrate nitrogen. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements essential for flower growth, with balanced ratios of various elements, and inorganic salts in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, facilitating nutrient absorption. Crushing soil fertilizers or granular fertilizers for use in hydroponic flowers is not advisable. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on flowers, but long-term application will inevitably interfere with normal physiological metabolism. Using organic fertilizers as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers is even more unacceptable. Diluted urea can be used for foliar spraying but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: Home hydroponic flowers have water (nutrient solution) in a static state, with dissolved oxygen below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient container. Their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface, seeking to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solutions is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy methods to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of nutrient solution changes. 2. Vibration aeration: hold the flower plant with one hand and gently shake the container with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a mini submersible pump or aeration pump (both are standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and the flowers grow robustly.

Spotting Fake Hydroponic Flower Technology at a Glance

Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish co-cultivated in a combination of movement and stillness, are the first impression they give. The earliest concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although some people had earlier grown easily water-cultivable plants like certain Araceae species and lucky bamboo in water, this concept does not belong to the currently popular "hydroponic flowers" concept!). It rose in 2003, when many enterprises with market vision rushed into preliminary research and planning for this industry. Coupled with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers could be said to bloom everywhere in China - some offered technical training, some had production bases, some had franchise flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On one hand, they added fuel to the hype of the hydroponic flower concept in China, letting many citizens understand and recognize this new concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this wave of market trends. By 2006, the tide had washed away the sand. Those with their own core technology and production capacity, with relatively strong economic strength and operational capability, could still survive in such a chaotic market tide. Very few could remain. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new wave in the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

I have been in this industry for three to four years and am relatively familiar with it. Given the current uneven quality of the hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, aiming to give the general public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding for reference:

Two, What Are Genuine Hydroponic Flowers?

From a sensory perspective, using glass vases of various shapes, with plants and flowers growing on top (currently, the scope of hydroponic technology has been extended to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, etc.), and a few cute small fish kept below - that is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, genuine hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means, causing changes in the physiological characteristics of their root systems, developing water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and being able to adapt to long-term aquatic cultivation - only then can they be called genuine hydroponic flowers (plants)!

Three, How to Identify Genuine Hydroponic Flowers?

Judging from sensory perception:
Report on the Current State of Hydroponic Flower Technology - One, Introduction:
A successfully genuine hydroponic plant, after induction and acclimation, should have a root system that is white, elegant, with many fibrous roots, very noticeably different from soil-cultivated plants. Soil-cultivated plant roots are generally darker in color! (Except for a few plants whose root color has a unique color - for example, after induction, the Chinese fringeflower [Loropetalum chinense] has roots, branches, and stem sections that are all dark red! Some plants' roots after soil removal are also nearly white!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it indicates that it was only recently planted in the bottle and placed there to deceive customers! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as a product!

Judging from a technical perspective:

1) Does it have professional technical expertise?

If, as some vendors claim, all you need is a so-called "induction solution," "acclimation solution," or "nutrient solution," and you soak the plant in water for a few days or a few hours - some even say just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes - to achieve hydroponic flowers, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if plant roots are severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, leading to fermentation and root rot. As a result, large amounts of fermentation products accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects appear, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly achieved, forming hydroponic plants with aerenchyma tissue that can well adapt to low-oxygen conditions in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. And the cultivation of water roots is not something that a nutrient solution alone can fully accomplish and achieve. It requires the integration of biological, physical, computer, and other methods and means, through a relatively long period of cultivation, and complete adaptation to the water environment, before it can become a professional, genuine hydroponic flower!

2) Does it have strong artistic composition skills and capability?

Hydroponic flowers belong to the mid-to-high-end consumer category. Their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and arrangement. Each product depends on its artistic glass vase container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and arrangement of fish, water plants, and other ornaments in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, beyond the natural sensory appeal, strong artistic composition is not something an ordinary beginner can put together! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether a manufacturer possesses such aesthetic standards!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also reveal whether a vendor has the capability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor a powerful and branded producer as a supply source, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely passing off soil-cultivated plants with washed roots as "hydroponic flowers"!

Examining from the variety perspective:

The varieties of hydroponic flowers that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to those like Araceae and Crassulaceae plants - such as peace lily [Spathiphyllum], Philodendron [Philodendron bipinnatifidum], lucky bamboo [Dracaena sanderiana], Monstera [Monstera deliciosa], and Chinese evergreen [Aglaonema] - which are inherently easy to grow in water. These plant varieties are naturally near-water and water-loving, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to hydroponically cultivate various woody plants and various water-fearing plants, such as sago palm [Cycas revoluta], cactus [Cactaceae], money tree [Pachira aquatica], Polynesian ivy [Polyscias fruticosa], and even yew [Taxus chinensis], osmanthus [Osmanthus fragrans], fruit trees, etc.! If the plant varieties a vendor can offer are limited, it is definitely not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Examining from the time perspective:

Time is the ultimate and only criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term aquatic cultivation and are just a fleeting bloom, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators create by washing off soil-cultivated roots, which can be produced within a few hours. Before long, the flowers bloom and fade! Therefore, at present, those vendors who cannot provide a shelf life guarantee for their products are mostly speculators. If a vendor cannot provide a shelf life guarantee for the product, it is recommended not to purchase, to avoid being deceived!
Four, How to Identify a Genuine Professional Hydroponic Flower Producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "legitimate" means in their publicity and information dissemination channels to deceive and fool the general consumers and investors. In order to make those who have no genuine hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, no technical personnel - some so-called high-tech shell companies that rent a few offices in national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Chinese Academy of Forestry, certain research centers, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the Retired Cadre Bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technology center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to make money - have no place to stand. It also aims to remove the deceptive market for those who maliciously transfer immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices, and more importantly, to enable you to learn these genuine techniques.

The author solemnly reminds: No matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be more vigilant, look at more companies, and compare more. You must carefully compare the unit's scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service. {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try to visit the franchisees to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this, so you must think twice before acting. This is the most direct and ultimate way to judge. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also use methods like "medical shills," "academic shills," "real estate shills," and "bar shills," deceiving you with the skill of a "master deceiver" like Zhao Benshan, making it impossible to guard against!}}; You must carefully verify the authenticity of the technology, training capability, and relevant certificates; you absolutely must not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Besides distinguishing whether something is genuinely hydroponic flowers through the product itself, in fact, everyone just needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following few points of experience, several types:

How to Apply Foliar Fertilization to Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under root oxygen-deficient conditions, which will cause certain deficiencies in the normal development of flowers. To improve flower quality, foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, trying not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The underside of leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growing season, to make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush foliage. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as peace lily [Spathiphyllum], wax begonia [Begonia semperflorens], bamboo begonia [Begonia maculata], and calla lily [Zantedeschia], a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week starting from the bud stage until the flowers open.

Three Essential Elements of Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponic flowers use modern bioengineering technology, employing physical, chemical, and bioengineering means to acclimate ordinary plants and flowers so they can grow long-term in water, forming a new generation of high-tech agricultural projects. With hydroponic flowers, flowers fill the room with fragrance above and fish swim freely below. They are hygienic, environmentally friendly, and hassle-free, which is why hydroponic flowers are also called "lazy person's flowers." Through the implementation of original factory-scale modern biological improvement technology, flowers originally adapted to terrestrial environments are rapidly acclimated, improved, and cultivated through short-term scientific domestication to quickly adapt to aquatic environments.

    Apart from light, temperature, humidity, and other environmental factors that are the same as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers have greatly different management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen:
    Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source. Generally, tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water undergoes filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used for growing hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, with severe eutrophication and possibly vastly different ion concentrations. If any one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage or poison plants to death, so they are not suitable as water sources for hydroponic flowers.
    Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use low-concentration specialized nutrient solutions based primarily on nitrate nitrogen. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements essential for flower growth, with balanced ratios of various elements, and inorganic salts in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their development stages. They are non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, facilitating nutrient absorption. Crushing soil fertilizers or granular fertilizers for use in hydroponic flowers is not advisable. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on flowers, but long-term application will inevitably interfere with normal physiological metabolism. Using organic fertilizers as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers is even more unacceptable. Diluted urea can be used for foliar spraying but must never be added to the nutrient solution.
    Oxygen: Home hydroponic flowers barely maintain life in oxygen-deficient containers. Their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface, seeking to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solutions is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer.

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