How to Grow Jasmine? A Detailed Guide to Jasmine Cultivation Methods
Jasmine has a pure and cool appearance, a rich and fresh fragrance, and clean white flowers. All of this is enough to make people feel a special love for it. But do you know how to grow jasmine? What are the cultivation methods for jasmine? Today, the editor will introduce how to grow jasmine to everyone. Friends who like it, please pay attention!
How to Grow Jasmine: Cultivation Methods
The main propagation method for jasmine is cuttings. Other less commonly used methods will not be introduced here. Cuttings are mainly taken from April to June each year, because this period is the best time for jasmine growth and development. When taking cuttings, select branches that have grown for one year, and those with two nodes are even better. Remove the leaves from the lower half of the branch to avoid wasting extra nutrients and to help the branch survive. Jasmine is a cold-sensitive plant, so finally cover it with plastic film. After about 40 days, its roots will have grown well!
How to Grow Jasmine: Key Cultivation Points
1. In the hot summer, be sure to remember to water in the morning and evening to keep the air around the jasmine at a certain humidity!
2. In winter, jasmine is in its dormant period of the year, so there is no need to water morning and evening as in summer, but you still need to make sure the jasmine does not lack water!
3. In autumn, some jasmine leaves will turn yellow. At this time, you need to clean up the yellow leaves to avoid nutrient loss!
4. In spring, jasmine is in its growth period, so if you like a certain shape, this is the time when you can prune it!
How to Grow Jasmine: Potted Cultivation Techniques
This technique requires a patient person to do. The requirements for growing jasmine in pots are still somewhat high. It requires the soil to be organic and contain many minerals. Then the bottom of the flower pot must have small holes, and the soil's water permeability and aeration must be the main focus. In the first month after planting jasmine, you also need to cover the soil on top with something, preferably fine wood shavings, so that while ensuring temperature, it can also breathe well!
How to Grow Jasmine: Pest and Disease Control
Jasmine is most easily damaged by leaf roller moths and red spiders, but when killing insects, do not use pesticides. Pesticides may fail to kill the pests and instead kill the jasmine. You can use a specific pesticide for pests - dicofol, which can completely kill the pests without harming the jasmine!
Summary: The above is what the editor shared today about how to grow jasmine. Jasmine is a delicate plant. If you want to grow it, you need to care for it carefully!
How to Grow Jasmine: Jasmine Cultivation Methods
The article shared today by the editor on how to grow jasmine and jasmine cultivation methods is a relatively comprehensive article on jasmine cultivation. It is very worth reading and learning for flower lovers who like jasmine. The editor also hopes this article can help everyone with growing jasmine.
How to Grow Jasmine
Jasmine prefers warm, humid, and sunny environments, and grows best in well-ventilated, semi-shaded conditions. The most suitable soil is slightly acidic sandy soil containing large amounts of humus. Most varieties are sensitive to cold and drought, and are not tolerant of frost, waterlogging, or alkaline soil. When the winter temperature is below 3°C, the branches and leaves are prone to frost damage, and if it lasts too long, they will die.
Jasmine greatly loves fertilizer. With proper care, a potted jasmine can bloom three times a year. If fertilizer is insufficient and nutrients are inadequate, it will bloom once and then stop blooming. If jasmine is managed well, it can bloom continuously from the end of May to the beginning of November. The key is pruning, sunlight, and the management of fertilizer and water.
Jasmine Cultivation Methods
I. Watering
In growing jasmine, learning to water is considered the gateway to jasmine cultivation. Many people's jasmine does not grow well, such as yellowing or sparse leaves, or large leaves with sparse nodes, or few flowers or no flowers at all. Another problem is that it cannot survive the winter, and by the next year it either withers or grows even more misshapen and formless.
The above symptoms show: First, improper watering at ordinary times, mainly not knowing which season needs more water, which season needs less water, and in seasons requiring more water, how to water in stages within a day, and in seasons requiring less water, how to water less. How to observe whether watering is needed, and so on.
These are all care steps with a certain level of technical content and detail. Too much watering makes jasmine prone to root rot, and laypeople often cannot see whether its roots have rotted. They may think it is not watered enough, or think it is malnourished, and apply more fertilizer, which then costs the jasmine its life! Watering jasmine less generally will not kill it. There is a flower-growing proverb: "Dry jasmine, wet chrysanthemum." This is a summary of experience from flower growers since ancient times, so it is said: learning to water is considered the gateway to jasmine cultivation.
How to manage watering:
1. Check the potting soil for dry-wet alternation; the soil should not dry to the point of turning pale and cracked, nor be wet to the point of becoming mud.
2. Tap the flower pot with your finger and listen to the sound. A crisp, pleasant sound means the potting soil is already dry; a dull, muffled sound means the potting soil still contains water.
Usually, broken pot pieces and the like are placed at the bottom of the flower pot to help drainage and aeration. Foam blocks used as a bottom pad for pots are a new type of material and can be considered a new thing. Whether it is good or not cannot be defined absolutely; it is simply a matter of using materials according to suitability. It is like how wounds were once bandaged with hemostatic powder and gauze, and after adhesive bandages appeared, people used materials according to suitability in the same way.
II. Fertilizing
The three essential elements for plant growth: "soil, sunlight, water." With these three elements, plants can survive and grow. Then, if you want plants to grow strong, with lush branches and leaves and abundant flowers and fruit, you must know the three essential nutrients for plants: "nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium." Growing jasmine is the same; you must understand these two "three essentials." Often, beginners at growing jasmine, because they do not initially understand the essence of the plant nutrient "three essentials," casually fertilize jasmine. This not only fails to achieve the effect but does the opposite, making jasmine that was originally growing decently grow worse and worse.
Once you have learned to fertilize jasmine, you have moved from the introductory stage of jasmine cultivation up a step into the next important care stage. When jasmine is fertilized appropriately, the satisfying effect goes without saying. Jasmine will inevitably have abundant flowers and lush leaves, robust branches, and a moderate tree shape, and its ability to resist disease, disasters, severe cold, and intense heat will also require no worry from its owner.
Why can't home potted jasmine be fertilized hastily in spring and early summer?
(1) Many fellow enthusiasts are quite concerned about this issue, but they often believe the words of flower sellers, or after reading introductions online, in books, magazines, and so on, they fertilize jasmine at home at what seems like the right time, hoping that after receiving fertilizer their jasmine will grow faster, bloom more, and have sturdier branches. The result is either wrinkled leaves, or large leaves with sparse nodes, or only branches and leaves with few flowers. At this time the owner still thinks the jasmine lacks fertilizer and keeps applying various fertilizers, yet the result is still unsatisfactory. In this way they lose confidence in caring for jasmine. This is the reason why you cannot fertilize hastily.
(2) Fertilizing must be done when the potting soil is dry, and generally between afternoon and early evening. In ordinary home jasmine care, do not fertilize in the morning or at noon. The next morning, give the fertilized ML a small amount of clear water; this is called watering [return water]. This step is very important and is a key move in whether jasmine can absorb the applied fertilizer. The best fertilizer to use is fully rotted human waste water, followed by fully rotted cake fertilizer (soybean cake and sesame cake) water, and next (when conditions do not allow) chemical granular fertilizer. The method is to slightly loosen the soil at the edge of the pot, put in the granular fertilizer, press the potting soil firm, and water with clear water. Generally, for a flower pot of about 5 cun, about 15 granules are enough. In my early years (around the 1990s) I used "Feihuadan" produced in Zhenjiang for granular fertilizer, and the effect was fairly good. I do not know whether it is still sold now. After applying this kind of granular fertilizer, remember the time and apply it on schedule according to the instructions. Remember that no fertilizer may be used indiscriminately. Jasmine likes fully rotted human waste fertilizer best, but for home jasmine growing this is not easy to implement. Generally, soybean cake and sesame cake are crushed, soaked until rotten and fully composted, then diluted with water and applied, or eggshells are soaked in water until fully composted and then diluted with water and applied. If conditions do not allow, then after flower buds sprout, apply granular fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium elements. Note to apply as little nitrogen-containing granular fertilizer as possible, otherwise it will only grow leaves and be difficult to develop flower buds.
(3) After the Dragon Boat Festival, the temperature gradually rises. There is a saying in Wuhan: "After eating salted egg zongzi, put away the cotton clothes," meaning there will no longer be a "cold wave." High temperature and high heat are exactly the good climate that jasmine likes and that easily develops flower buds. People usually call the period from the Dragon Boat Festival to the Mid-Autumn Festival the jasmine flowering period. The flowers jasmine opens during the hottest dog days of midsummer are called fu flowers. Professional flower farmers have the saying "first fu flower tide, second fu flower tide, third fu flower tide," meaning that during this peak flowering period jasmine blooms surging like a tide. Home-grown jasmine is the same. During this period, abundant flowers and lush leaves are pleasing to the eye, and the fragrant scent refreshing to the heart... People must absolutely not neglect its care during the peak flowering period of jasmine. Each jasmine flower only lasts one day and night. After blooming, promptly cut off the spent flowers and leave the nutrients for other flowers. Prune progressively in this way. After a batch of flowers has finished blooming, promptly prune the branches according to the shape of the plant and personal preference, wait for it to sprout new branches and then develop new flower buds. Once new flower buds are found forming, promptly apply fertilizer water. The frequency of applying fertilizer water should increase as the buds grow larger. Potting soil that is on the wet side must not be fertilized; this is the principle. Only when jasmine is about to bloom and people want to enjoy the flowers while avoiding off-flavors should application stop.,,
III. Pruning
In growing jasmine, learning to prune is a very important step. Necessary and appropriate pruning of jasmine can not only ensure the preservation of jasmine's own nutrients, benefiting the growth of new branches and the sprouting of new flower buds, but can also ensure the beauty of the tree shape, and the healthy branches cut off can also be used for cutting propagation to ensure the replacement of old and new jasmine plants.
Key care points for jasmine in early spring:
[Leaf removal] During the period from Qingming to Guyu, the temperature gradually rises and becomes stable, and jasmine branches begin to stir. At this time, all old leaves on jasmine branches should be promptly removed. These old leaves have already completed their historical mission of storing nutrients to keep jasmine safe through the winter, and their photosynthetic circulation function has basically been lost entirely. Keeping them not only obstructs the lighting of jasmine branches but also consumes a large amount of the limited nutrients remaining in the jasmine branches after winter. Therefore, before jasmine sprouts new buds, that is, before Qingming, all old leaves on the branches must be removed.
Removing all leaves from jasmine is experience summarized from many years of jasmine care. Those old leaves that went through last year and then another winter have basically completely lost their photosynthetic circulation function. Keeping them may, to beginners at growing jasmine, look nice with green branches and leaves, but in essence, leaving these old leaves on jasmine branches greatly harms the jasmine itself:
[First] If these old leaves remain on jasmine branches, in early spring when jasmine has not yet restored normal function, especially when the jasmine root system has not yet fully restored its function of absorbing nutrients from the soil, they are the first to absorb the limited nutrients remaining in the jasmine branches after winter, directly affecting the sprouting of new jasmine buds, causing the new buds to sprout late or develop incompletely, and further affecting the formation of flower buds. This is why many people's jasmine blooms quite luxuriantly the first year, and then year after year gets worse, because they do not understand this key point.
[Second] If these old leaves remain on the branches, they directly affect the lighting of jasmine branches, and further affect the sprouting of new jasmine buds. More importantly, they affect the formation of flower buds among the new buds. Jasmine flower buds are all formed in new buds. Those old leaves left on the branches can neither help jasmine carry out photosynthesis and keep nutrients circulating normally in the jasmine branches, nor stop continuously absorbing nutrients that should be supplied to the growth of new branches, leaves, and new flower buds. In this way, how can the jasmine being cared for grow sturdier year after year?
[Pruning] After new buds sprout, choose the direction in which the new buds extend, then carry out directional and shape-setting pruning.
After Qingming, the temperature gradually rises and is relatively stable. Pruned jasmine can be placed on flower racks for care.
Experience summarized over many years: In spring, do not rush to repot. Wait until after the first batch of flowers has bloomed before repotting. The advantage is that after blooming it happens to have a recovery period for renewing and sprouting new buds. During this period the temperature is relatively high and relatively stable, and the jasmine root system disturbed during repotting can easily recover its vitality.
Spring care for jasmine mainly consists of cutting off old branches and leaves, pruning old and weak branches, and shape-setting pruning. In addition, there is an important care point not known to the general public: removing the tips of new buds. A large portion of newly sprouted buds are excessive vegetative branches. Such branches generally will not develop flower buds. If not removed promptly, they both affect the shape of the plant and absorb a large amount of nutrients from the pot, which is unfavorable for the sprouting of flower buds, so they must be removed promptly.
The flower buds developed at this time (April) are called "following-mother flowers." For jasmine to be sturdier, they are generally all removed. After removal, it is greatly beneficial for its peak flowering period in summer. People often focus only on the few flower buds before their eyes and neglect long-term care and cherishing of the plant. The reason new leaves are not green is that following-mother flowers have absorbed a large amount of nutrients. Whether to prune [following-mother flowers], or how much to cut, is up to the grower. If you want the plant's branches to be sturdy and to bloom more later, then [following-mother flowers] should all be pruned off. If you want to enjoy the flowers in your pot at that time, you may not cut off the [following-mother flowers], but if you do not prune the [following-mother flowers], these flowers will absorb a large amount of nutrients from the main trunk, affecting the main trunk's sprouting of new branches and new flower buds. This is a chain reaction brought by [following-mother flowers]. The so-called [following-mother flowers] are a kind of flower bud under an abnormal state peculiar to jasmine's characteristics. They sprout earlier, are fewer, and are not very fragrant. Professional flower growers and flower collectors all know that [following-mother flowers] must be pruned clean for jasmine to achieve high efficiency and high yield. These are experiences summarized by people, and relatively few have been published in theory, so they are often difficult for people to understand.
Remove the tips according to the plant shape you like. You can carefully observe my pot of jasmine with the tips removed. Generally, remove the [transparent tips -- tips without flower buds] from the first node or second node of the branch (that is, the first pair of leaf stalks or the second pair of leaf stalks upward from the base). It is not a matter of removing tips at will!
[Several key points] (1) Ferrous sulfate must not be applied at will. Do not listen to the promotion of flower fertilizer sellers. After the potting soil becomes too alkaline, jasmine leaves will turn yellow, which indicates that acidic elements need to be supplemented. Improper use of ferrous sulfate will do the opposite and cause adverse phenomena such as root rot and burning to death. In fact, you have a raw material at home for supplementing acidic elements -- rice washing water. Keep the rice washing water and pour it into an empty Gaocheng bottle, let it fully ferment for later use. When needed, take a small amount, dilute it with water, and pour it on to immediately supplement acidic elements. It is both economical and practical, and relatively safe.
(2) Place it outdoors in sunlight for care. Do not place it indoors or in a dark place.
(3) After flowering, prune according to the tree shape you like. There is no fixed definition; pruning techniques need to be summarized slowly by yourself.
(4) The height of the branches retained during pruning should be determined by the shape of the plant, or by the plant shape you personally prefer. For example, some people like a tall and strong shape (growing upward, mainly the central trunk, with side branches as auxiliary), while others like a low, spreading shape (a shorter tree shape extending in all directions, mainly side branches, with the central trunk pruned directionally). It cannot be generalized as cutting off a certain number of nodes or retaining a certain number of nodes.
(5) When repotting, whether intentionally or not, some roots will more or less be damaged, so [after repotting, absolutely do not rush to fertilize]. If fertilizer is applied (no matter what kind), root rot is inevitable. People generally cannot see jasmine root rot, but from surface phenomena such as: not growing as well as before repotting, few new buds sprouting, no flower buds sprouting, and so on, it can be seen that the root system has already been damaged. People often mistakenly understand it as: lacking fertilizer, lacking water, lacking whatever, and continuously supplement fertilizer water, with the result that the more they supplement, the worse it gets, finally ending with losing confidence in jasmine care. Generally when repotting, place an appropriate amount of fully rotted cake fertilizer at the very bottom of the pot, and cover the fertilizer well with potting soil. The root system must not directly contact the fertilizer, to avoid root rot. After repotting, normal watering and fertilizing management can be carried out after 2~3 weeks.
(6) On sunny days, water shortage in the flower pot can easily be seen from the leaves. On cloudy days, water shortage in the flower pot is generally difficult to determine. Also, the size of the plant and its tolerance to light and shade matter: large plants consume more water, while small plants do the opposite; light-tolerant plants consume more water, while shade-tolerant plants do the opposite. If the tip leaves wilt, first tap the flower pot with your finger and listen to the sound it makes. If the sound is crisp, it means the potting soil is on the dry side. If the sound is dull, it means the potting soil contains water. Sometimes leaf wilting may also mean the plant's root system has a problem. At this time, the more you water, the more the leaves will wilt.
Place newly repotted plants outdoors in a cool, ventilated place, generally for at most 1~3 days. Or place them in a place with light but no direct sun (that is, not exposed to the sun) for 1~3 days, after which normal care can resume.
(7) Any newly potted or newly repotted plant (including jasmine) must not be placed directly under the sun. Generally, place it in a place avoiding direct sunlight -- a place with sky visible but no sun -- for 3~5 days. The purpose is to let the already disturbed root system recover its vitality. When the root system's absorption function is normal, the branches and leaves of the plant will show a response, and then it can be placed in sunlight for care. The three essential elements for plant growth: soil, water, sunlight, none can be missing.
(8) If jasmine leaves are found to be wrinkled in spring: First, fertilizing too early. Second, too little light at the growing site. Third, watering too frequently.
(9) Potting soil should be obtained according to your own conditions and local suitability. If conditions allow, the best for jasmine care is dried [lotus pond mud], followed by old [vegetable garden soil] used for growing vegetables -- oily sandy soil. The soil must both retain moisture and have good water permeability. It should be dry without turning pale and cracked, and wet without becoming mud.
IV. Early Summer Management
Entering early summer, the temperature gradually rises and is relatively stable. Jasmine's branches and leaves also grow quite vigorously. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, it will begin to develop flower buds. The key management points are as follows:
(1) For jasmine placed on balcony flower racks for care, during this period pay attention to frequently changing the direction of the flower pot (must be changed once within a week), so that jasmine does not always grow in one direction and become crooked in shape. Changing the pot direction in this way also allows jasmine branches to bathe evenly in sunlight and better sprout new branches and flower buds. Jasmine flower buds are all developed in new branches.
(2) In this season, also pay attention to appropriate pruning of branches to ensure that jasmine continuously sprouts new buds and continuously develops flower buds, so that during its peak flowering period (the three months of July, August, and September) the owner can enjoy its abundant flowers and lush leaves and enjoy its fragrance that refreshes the heart.
(3) Watering should be moderate. Do not water if the potting soil is not dry. On cloudy and rainy days, prevent waterlogging in the potting soil that could cause jasmine root rot. Ensure the drainage function at the bottom of the pot. When placing the flower pot, do not block the drainage hole at the bottom. When watering is needed, it is best to do it in the morning. Generally do not water at noon or in the evening, unless making up for a missed watering in the morning.
(4) After new branches grow, prune according to the shape requirements of the plant, cutting off tips that affect the beauty of the plant shape, transparent tips (excessive vegetative branches that are unlikely to develop flower buds), abnormal tips (single leaves, whereas normal ones are opposite paired leaves), and so on.
(5) Promptly cut off following-mother flowers. Jasmine's peak flowering period is in midsummer. The flower buds sprouting in this season are developed from nutrients remaining in the branches after winter. They are generally single flowers, and some are even deformed buds. If not cut off, they have a great impact on jasmine sprouting more new branches and developing new flower buds. Many people are very happy to see their jasmine have buds early, and they fear losing them, so they carefully cultivate them until they bloom. As a result, some become deformed flowers, and some, even if they bloom, are not very fragrant. The biggest drawback is also this: these following-mother flowers absorb a large amount of nutrients from the branches, making it difficult for jasmine to sprout new flower buds when it enters the peak flowering period, because it prematurely loses the nutrient supplement for sprouting new flower buds. Cutting off one following-mother flower tip can at least allow two new tips to sprout, and by the peak flowering period, the new flower buds it sprouts will far exceed these following-mother flowers with no "gold content," many times over.
[Key care points for jasmine in autumn]
After entering autumn, be sure to pay attention to the following points when caring for jasmine:
(1) Strictly prohibit fertilizing. Avoid too many excessive vegetative branches affecting overwintering.
(2) Water sparingly. Promote lignification of jasmine branches to help it overwinter.
(3) Retain branches and leaves. Do not prune branches or leaves, so that jasmine can use the branches and leaves to store nutrients and create conditions for overwintering.
(4) Outdoor care. Place jasmine outdoors day and night for care, so that it adapts to the gradually colder seasonal climate and can overwinter easily.
(5) After entering autumn, the excessive vegetative new buds near the jasmine potting soil, especially on the main trunk, generally all need to be removed. In spring and summer, whether new buds sprouting on the main trunk are retained can be decided according to the plant shape.
In addition: It is not very normal for jasmine leaves to turn yellow in autumn. The main reason is that deviations occurred in summer care, such as improper watering, fertilizing, and lighting, and they only show up in autumn. If it occurs in spring and summer, it is relatively easy to treat, but in this season it is not very easy to cure completely. Conservative care methods: (1) Keep it on the dry side and promptly remove leaves that have turned very yellow. (2) Increase light exposure; photosynthesis can ease leaf yellowing. (3) Add a trace amount of ferrous sulfate (crystalline powder) when watering, and stop using it once the leaves show some improvement.
(Supplement)
A -- Whether jasmine roots sprout mainly depends on temperature. When the temperature is below 30°C, jasmine's branches, leaves, branches, and roots all grow slowly, and it is even less likely to sprout flower buds. If cuttings have not sprouted new roots, it is mainly due to restrictions from temperature and light. Strengthening light after autumn may still give the cuttings a glimmer of hope to sprout new roots.
B -- In autumn, absolutely do not fertilize jasmine during care!! Be sure to let the potting soil be on the dry side (judged by jasmine branches and leaves not wilting), so that its fibrous roots are plump, the main root is robust, and the branches and leaves are lush, storing enough nutrients to safely pass through the cold winter. Note: First, if the potting soil is on the wet side, root rot is easy (obviously, the white, fresh, tender fibrous roots are the most delicate and most prone to rot). Second, if care is improper during the transition from summer to autumn and strong main stems, branches, and leaves cannot be preserved, jasmine can neither use the leaves for photosynthesis to sustain life nor have a robust root system to absorb water and supply it to the leaves. Third, if pruning is improper in late summer and early autumn, excessive vegetative branches and leaves that are not removed in time will wither because they are too tender. Fourth, do not indiscriminately use ferrous sulfate solution or any other biochemical products; improper use can very easily cause the entire potted plant (jasmine) to die prematurely.
V. Key Winter Care Points
It can neither be too dry nor too wet (without watering, branches are prone to drying out and being damaged; with too much watering, root rot is easy), neither too cold nor too wrapped (without wrapping, branches are prone to freezing damage; if wrapped too tightly, leaves are prone to falling), neither too closed nor too windy (without ventilation, branches are prone to being damaged by stagnation; with too much wind, branches are prone to drying out), and it fears both cold wind and sunlight (without light, branches are prone to being stifled and damaged; with too much sun exposure, it is prone to cold damage).
Improper winter care of jasmine has a direct impact on its sprouting of new buds the following spring. Winter care of jasmine is a key season in jasmine care. Views on how to care for it differ, and numerous newspapers, magazines, and flower books have introduced it. I have cared for jasmine at home for more than thirty years, and winter care is especially meticulous.
Key points for wrapping branches to protect against cold:
In winter, jasmine still has weak physiological circulation functions, such as leaf respiration and water absorption by the root system, but people cannot see them as directly as in hot weather. A slight mistake in care can cause it to lose vitality. Therefore, when wrapping it for cold protection, only materials such as snake-skin bags can be used. This kind of material can both block wind and protect against cold, and also breathe. Absolutely do not use plastic bag materials for wrapping. Although plastic bag wrapping can temporarily block wind and protect against cold, it does not breathe and directly affects jasmine's functional circulation, leading to stifled and damaged branches and leaves, causing jasmine branches to die and leaves to fall completely, so that in the next spring it cannot sprout and slowly withers.
How to Grow Potted Jasmine: Jasmine Cultivation Methods
How to grow jasmine? What are the jasmine cultivation methods? Friends who grow jasmine at home are relatively concerned about this. Growing jasmine in pots is still relatively difficult. Next, Xiao Qi will introduce how to grow jasmine and jasmine cultivation methods.
I. How to Grow Jasmine
Jasmine prefers warmth and humidity, and grows best in a well-ventilated, semi-shaded environment. The most suitable soil is fertile, slightly acidic sandy loam. It is not tolerant of drought, waterlogging, or alkaline soil. Its cold resistance is poor. The suitable temperature is 25°C--30°C. When the temperature is below 2°C--3°C, the branches and leaves are prone to frost damage, and if it lasts too long, it will die. Therefore, cold protection in winter is especially important. Potted plants need to be moved indoors after Frost's Descent to help them overwinter safely.
Jasmine flower image
II. Jasmine Cultivation Methods
1. Variety selection: Jasmine belongs to the genus Osmanthus [as written in the source], the genus Jasminum, an evergreen climbing shrub. According to surveys, there are currently more than 60 jasmine varieties in China, among which the main cultivated varieties are single-petal jasmine, double-petal jasmine, and multi-petal jasmine, three kinds. Single-petal jasmine: the plant is relatively short, 70--90 cm tall, with slender stems and branches, vine-like, hence it is also called vine jasmine. The flower buds are slightly pointed and long, relatively small and light. Its yield is lower than double-petal jasmine and higher than multi-petal jasmine. It is not cold-tolerant, not waterlogging-tolerant, and weak in disease and pest resistance. Double-petal jasmine is the main variety cultivated on a large scale in China for scenting flower tea. The plant is 1--1.5 m tall, upright and clustered, with many branches. The stems and branches are thick and hard, the leaf color is deep green, and the leaf texture is relatively thick and glossy. The flowers are larger than those of single-petal jasmine and multi-petal jasmine. The flower buds are white, oily and smooth, with obvious waxy quality. The floral fragrance is relatively strong. It grows robustly and has strong adaptability. Fresh flower yield (over 3 years) can reach more than 500 kg per mu. Multi-petal jasmine: the branches have relatively obvious protruding lumps, the leaves are deep green, the flowers are tight, relatively round and small, with the top slightly notched. Multi-petal jasmine flowers take too long to open, the fragrance is relatively faint, and the yield is relatively low, so it is generally not used as fresh flowers for scenting flower tea.
2. Light: Jasmine by nature likes hot, humid, ventilated, and airy environments, and needs sufficient light. Jasmine fears cold. In the south, potted jasmine can be grown outdoors to overwinter. In the north, in autumn and winter, good warmth protection is needed, and it should be moved indoors and placed in a south-facing direction. Strong light makes the branches sturdy, the leaf color deep green, and the flowers numerous and fragrant. Insufficient sunlight makes the nodes sparse, the flowers few, and the fragrance lacking.
3. Watering: Jasmine is not drought-tolerant, but it also dislikes water accumulation. In rainy seasons, promptly pour out accumulated water in the pot, otherwise the leaves are prone to turning yellow. In hot summer, on sunny days, water twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. If leaves are found curling and drooping, spray water on the leaves to promote growth.
4. Soil: For jasmine cultivation, the soil should preferably be fertile sandy soil or semi-sandy soil. Planting in slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6 to 6.5 results in dense roots and vigorous growth. If the soil is sticky and heavy, lacks organic matter, has low fertility, and has poor aeration, then there will be few roots, short plants, slender stems and leaves, and few and small flowers.
Jasmine image
5. Fertilizing: The peak growth period of jasmine is in the hot midsummer season. Apply more organic fertilizer and phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, such as peanut cake powder, bone meal, superphosphate, and multi-element flower fertilizer, twice a month. During the summer growth period, jasmine often shows lush branches and leaves but no flowering. The main reason is applying too much nitrogen fertilizer, causing excessive vegetative growth of branches and leaves. In this situation, control fertilizer and water, increase phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, promote flower bud development, and at the same time pay attention to moving jasmine to a place with sufficient sunlight and good ventilation.
6. Pruning: "If jasmine is not pruned, weak branches and few flowers are very obvious." "Prune branches ruthlessly, and flowering will be stable." But when people cultivate jasmine, they often focus on fertilizer and water and neglect pruning. They may even be unwilling to cut off dead branches after overwintering, resulting in thin and weak branches, small and withered leaves, an ungraceful plant shape, and poor flowering. For jasmine pruning, in addition to cutting off thin and weak branches after overwintering in spring and keeping only the thick and strong base to await new bud sprouting, summer pruning is very important. After flowers fade, promptly keep 3--5 nodes on the branch and cut off the top shoot to promote new sprouting. Ensure abundant flowering.
7. Temperature: To grow potted jasmine well, temperature control is especially important. During vigorous growth, it should be placed in an environment of 25--30 degrees. In winter and spring, jasmine grows slowly or basically does not grow, and placing it at a temperature of 5--10 degrees is enough. This is very critical for ensuring normal growth of jasmine in summer and autumn and preventing death in severe cold seasons.
8. Pest and disease control: Jasmine is often harmed by pyralid moth larvae, scale insects, and red spiders, with July to September being the most serious. They often bore into and eat flower buds. You can spray with universal powder or fenvalerate diluted 200 times with water, once every half month. Even if no pests or diseases have occurred, spraying should still be carried out to achieve prevention first. The best spraying time is 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. on sunny days. Do not spray under the strong sun at noon to prevent pesticide damage.
Jasmine image
The above ishow to grow jasmineandjasmine cultivation methodsintroduced, hoping it can help everyone grow jasmine better.
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