How to grow potted gardenia? Cultivation methods and precautions

The gardenia has a beautiful and highly attractive appearance, gives off a fresh fragrance, and has excellent ornamental value. A well-grown gardenia has emerald-green leaves and jade-white flowers. Do you know what the cultivation methods and precautions for gardenia are? And what are the reasons why gardenia does not bloom? Let's take a look together below!

Gardenia propagation methods

1. Cutting propagation: In May—June, select semi-lignified, well-developed young shoots, cut them into 10—15 cm lengths, soak the base in 1000 mg/kg naphthalene acetic acid for 3-5 seconds, and insert the cuttings into acidic soil with strong water and fertilizer retention. Generally, a mix of 3 parts leaf mold or mountain soil with 1 part sawdust, peat, or river sand can be used. After insertion, roots can form in about 1 month, and transplanting can be done after 50 days. In southern China, the water-cutting method is often used in summer, carried out from April to July. The prepared 10—15 cm long cuttings, with 2-3 leaves kept at the upper part, are inserted into a woven basket lid or a perforated plastic board, and the lid or plastic board is floated on the water surface so that the upper part of the cuttings is exposed above the water. After insertion, place in semi-shade and keep the water temperature at 16-18°C; new roots can grow in 20 days. When the temperature is high, change the water frequently, once a day, and do not let the water deteriorate. When the roots grow to 2-3 cm, they can be transplanted.

2. Layering propagation: Mostly carried out in May-June. Select 1-2 year old vigorous branches, 25-30 cm long, and press them into the soil 3-5 cm; roots can form in about 1 month, and they can be cut from the mother plant after 2 months. Air layering can also be used, that is, on an adult gardenia, select 2—3 year old vigorous branches, girdle the bark 1-2 cm, then wrap with moist peat and tie tightly on the outside with a plastic bag, keeping the soil moist. New roots can grow in about 40 days, and the branch can be cut from the mother plant after 2-3 months.

3. Division propagation: In May, if there are 2-3 stems growing together at the base of the roots, cut them apart from the root with a knife. Each division should have fine roots. After applying plant ash to the wound, plant them separately.

Gardenia cultivation methods

1. Pot soil selection: Gardenia is an indicator plant that prefers acidic soil, with a suitable pH value of 5 to 6. Therefore, a slightly acidic soil environment is the key to determining whether gardenia grows well. If the soil acidity is unsuitable, future management will yield twice the effort for half the result. The culture soil should be a mix of 7 parts slightly acidic sandy red soil and 3 parts leaf mold. It is advisable to keep the soil pH between 4.0-6.5. For cultivation soil, choose leaf mold, peat soil, or composted sawdust plus half garden soil. Avoid old wall soil and coal cinder; using commercially available clivia soil is more convenient and practical.

2. Scientific watering: Gardenia prefers moist soil and relatively high air humidity. During the growing period from April to September, keep the pot soil moist. During the growing period, appropriately increase watering. Usually, water when the pot soil surface turns white, and water thoroughly each time. Summer is hot and dry, so spray the leaves 2-3 times a day to increase air humidity and help the plant cool down. However, after flower buds appear, watering should not be excessive to avoid bud drop. In winter, it is better to keep watering on the dry side to prevent root rot from excessive water. Water when the pot soil surface looks dry, and in the evening you can use a spray bottle to sprinkle water on the leaves. If the soil dries out completely and the plant wilts, it will be detrimental to growth. For plants that grow too vigorously with longer internodes, do not water at night; water after the sun comes out in the morning. In northern areas with alkaline water, tap water should be left to stand for two days before use. Every three to five days, water thoroughly once with a water solution containing 0.5 g citric acid and 1 g ferrous sulfate per liter, which can make the leaves glossy and emerald green.

3. Reasonable fertilizing: Gardenia's demand for fertilizer: Gardenia is a fertilizer-loving plant. Add 3% decomposed cake fertilizer to the culture soil as a base fertilizer. During the growing season, water once a week with alum fertilizer water made by fermenting cake fertilizer and ferrous sulfate, or use 0.1% humic acid complete-nutrition organic liquid fertilizer. During the bud stage, water once or twice with 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution, which can make the flowers larger and the fragrance richer. Stop fertilizing during the hot summer period when the temperature is above 35°C and in autumn when it is below 15°C. After entering the peak growing season in April, topdress once every half month (when fertilizing, it is best to dilute with more water to prevent burning the flowers). This can not only meet the gardenia's fertilizer needs, but also keep the soil environment in a relatively balanced slightly acidic state, prevent the occurrence of chlorosis, and at the same time avoid the harm to gardenia from suddenly supplementing ferrous sulfate and causing local over-acidity.

4. Give more sunlight: Gardenia likes light. It can also grow in semi-shade for a long time, but the flowering branches will be longer and the flowers fewer. Except for shading needed during strong midday light from July to August and during the winter dormancy period, it generally needs to be kept in sunlight for maintenance to produce abundant flowers and lush leaves.

5. Good winter dormancy: Gardenia can overwinter outdoors in the Qinling area of China, but potted gardenia roots will be damaged after a severe winter, and spring recovery is slow. Overwintering indoors with heating avoids freeze damage, but with insufficient light the growth is weak and spindly, most young buds formed in autumn drop off, and flowering is late the following year. A better method is to place the potted flower in a cold room at about 5°C to let it go dormant, or wrap the flower pot well with foam plastic and other insulation materials to protect the root system, and place it in a windbreak, sunny spot to overwinter, so that spring recovery is fast and flowering is early.

6. Repot and change soil at the right time: Use a small pot for seedlings, then gradually move them into larger pots. When the crown width is 2 to 3 times the pot diameter, it is time to repot. Repotting can be done at any time during the growing season. After turning out the pot, plant it with the soil ball into a new pot, and a diameter about 5 cm larger than the original pot is suitable. For household potting, when the pot reaches about 28 cm, generally no more repotting is done and only the soil is replaced. It is better to change the soil in March in spring. After turning out the pot, cut off some old roots, shake off half of the old soil, plant into the pot with new soil, then water thoroughly, place in a warm semi-shade spot, and move to sunlight for maintenance when new buds sprout.

7. Proper pruning: For large-flowered gardenia seedlings, pinch off the growing tip at 20 cm on the main trunk, leave 3 to 4 branches, and when the branches have 2 pairs of leaves, pinch off the growing tips again to promote branching, after which they can be allowed to grow freely. Small-leaved gardenia does not need tip pinching. After flowering each year, prune lightly, cutting off inner branches and diseased or weak branches, and shorten individual leggy branches. When large-flowered gardenia has too large a crown after 4 to 5 years, severe pruning can be done after flowering; generally leave 2 pairs of leaves on the upper branches and shorten them, and after budding, remove inward-growing buds and buds on the lower part of the main trunk, so the plant shape becomes more compact and beautiful. Remember that gardenia must not be shortened at the branch tips in spring, otherwise it will not bloom that year.

Precautions for growing gardenia

1. Gardenia likes fertilizer, but fears concentrated fertilizer. Generally, apply 2 topdressings of cake fertilizer water rich in phosphorus and potassium before buds appear, and stop fertilizing after buds appear. If too much fertilizer is applied, it easily burns the roots and causes bud drop. During the growing period, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water or manure water once every half month, and add 1%-2% ferrous sulfate to prevent soil alkalization.

2. Gardenia likes semi-shade and fears direct strong light, requiring about 50% shade. If exposed to the sun, the leaves turn yellow, turn white, and then fall off, so in summer it must be kept in a shaded place or a place with scattered light. Let it receive light in the morning and evening to avoid yellowing of the leaves.

What is the flower language of gardenia?

The flower language of gardenia is “eternal love, waiting for a lifetime, and joy.” In legend, the flower language of gardenia is waiting love. The flower language of gardenia: joy. If you like this flower, you have a heart of gratitude and repay kindness; you treat others sincerely, and as long as others are slightly kind to you, you repay them with heartfelt thanks. This is because you have a pure heart and do not understand the dangers of the human heart, and your sincerity keeps you always cheerful, while forgiving others also fills you with joy.

Generally in which month does gardenia bloom?

When gardenia blooms can be divided into the following by region. In North China, buds generally appear in early May and flowers bloom in early to mid-June. One flower has a flowering period of 8-5 days, and the whole flowering period lasts about one month.

What are the reasons for gardenia leaves turning yellow?

1. Improper moisture

① Overwatering: In this case, the young leaves of gardenia are dull yellow and lack luster, but the old leaves show no obvious change. At this time, just take the plant out of the pot and place it in a ventilated, cool place, then put it back after the soil dries.

② Lack of water: The leaf tips or edges become withered and dry, and the old leaves turn yellow and fall from the bottom upward, but in this case the new leaves grow relatively normally. At this time, water enough and water thoroughly.

2. Improper light

① Too much light: Yellow spots appear on the sun-facing part of the leaves. At this time, simply move it to a shaded place for care and it can recover; newly grown leaves will no longer have yellow spots.

② Insufficient sunlight: At this time the leaves turn yellow and even fall off. Simply place it in the sun to supplement sunlight.

3. Improper fertilizing

① Too much fertilizer: It mainly shows brown tips on new leaves, thick and lusterless leaf surfaces, and scorched yellow old leaves that fall off. At this time, stop fertilizing immediately, and in severe cases also flush the soil to reduce the concentration.

② Insufficient fertilizer: Insufficient fertilizer can also cause the plant to turn yellow. For example, with iron deficiency, the leaves are light yellow or white while the veins remain green; at this time spray 0.2%-0.5% ferrous sulfate water for control. With magnesium deficiency, the old leaves turn yellow first, then the new leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green; at this time spray 0.7%-0.8% boron-magnesium fertilizer for control.

4. Too low temperature: Too low temperature can also cause leaf yellowing. Simply move it to a warmer place.

What are the reasons why gardenia does not bloom?

1. Improper water and fertilizer: Once water and fertilizer are excessive, it causes the plant to grow leggy. Without enough nutrients for reproductive growth, flower bud formation is affected, resulting in no flowering or very few flowers, and some may even drop immediately after opening. During the flower bud differentiation stage, special attention should be paid to the combination of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, such as 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, which is beneficial to flower bud formation and bud development. If fertilization is too concentrated during the bud stage, or watering fluctuates between too much and too little, it will also cause flower and seedling drop.

2. Unsuitable light: Gardenia likes shade, and special attention must be paid to excessive light in summer and insufficient light in winter. Too much or too little light will affect gardenia flowering.

3. High soil alkalinity: Gardenia likes acidic soil. If the soil for cultivating gardenia contains high salt and alkali, it will cause the plant to become chlorotic and ultimately affect flowering.

4. No pruning or shaping: If gardenia branches are messy, a large number of miscellaneous branches consume a large amount of nutrients, and the branches are too dense, affecting photosynthesis, all of which are important reasons for failure to bloom.

5. Severe pests and diseases: I believe everyone can understand this. Severe pests and diseases will inevitably cause flowers and buds to drop.

Potted gardenia cultivation methods and precautions. How to fertilize gardenia

Gardenia is one of the common ornamental plants on balconies and in courtyards. Its leaves stay green all year round and its flowers are full of fragrance, playing a very significant role in freshening the air and improving the home environment. However, many people do not understand its cultivation deeply enough and often feel that gardenia is difficult to grow. In fact, gardenia cultivation is not difficult, and rooting its branches by cuttings easily makes it fill the pot. How is this done? Let's learn together.

Potted gardenia cultivation methods and precautions

I. Cultivation methods

1. Suitable pot soil

Gardenia likes acidic soil, with a suitable pH value of 5 to 6. Prepare suitable soil before planting. For cultivation soil, usually choose leaf mold and peat soil plus half garden soil. Do not use coal cinder, or directly buy special soil, which is convenient and practical.

2. Reasonable fertilizing

Gardenia likes fertilizer. When planting, add decomposed cake fertilizer to the soil as a base fertilizer. During the growing season, use fertilizer water made by fermenting cake fertilizer and ferrous sulfate, and water once a week. Complete-nutrition organic liquid fertilizer can also be used. Topdressing during the bud stage can make the flowers larger and the fragrance richer. Stop fertilizing when the summer temperature is above 35°C and the autumn temperature is above 15°C.

3. Watering

Gardenia likes a moist and humid environment. During the growing period, keep the pot soil moist, watering when dry and stopping when wet. At night, spraying can wet the leaves to maintain humidity. If the plant grows too vigorously, do not water at night; water after the sun comes out in the morning.

4. Light

Gardenia growth requires sufficient sunlight. If kept in semi-shade for a long time, the flowering branches become thin and slender. During care, except for shading needed at noon in July/August and winter dormancy, it can be maintained in sunlight at other times.

II. Cultivation precautions

1. Winter dormancy

Although gardenia is cold-tolerant, potted gardenia roots will be damaged after a severe winter, and spring recovery is slower. The best method is to place the pot in a 5°C environment to let it go dormant, or wrap the flower pot with insulation materials and place it outdoors in a sunny, windbreak spot to overwinter.

2. Proper pruning

When the main trunk of gardenia grows to 20 cm, pinch off the growing tip and leave 3-4 branches to promote branching. After flowering each year, prune lightly and cut off weak and diseased branches. However, gardenia must not be shortened at the branch tips in spring, otherwise it will be difficult for it to bloom that year.

3. Repot and change soil at the right time

Gardenia has strong vitality. Seedlings grow from a few centimeters to dozens of centimeters, so repot according to the size of the plant. When repotting, prune old roots in time, replace half the soil, water thoroughly, place in semi-shade for a week, and move to sunlight after new buds grow.

4. Soil acidification

Gardenia likes fertilizer, but fears concentrated fertilizer. During the growing period, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every half month, and the concentration should be low to avoid burning roots and affecting flower bud growth. At the same time, note that the soil should be acidified in time. Changing the acidity and alkalinity of the soil can promote plant growth. Pest and disease control: Gardenia is relatively prone to chlorosis, leaf spot, and scale insects. Once found, spray pesticides in time for disinfection and isolate it from other plants to avoid infection.

How to fertilize gardenia

1. Apply sufficient base fertilizer

During gardenia care, if growth is slow, branches are weak, and frequent topdressing is needed, it indicates that the base fertilizer was insufficient at planting. Before planting gardenia, add organic fertilizer (decomposed animal manure, cake fertilizer) to the soil and mix it evenly with the soil.

2. Apply slow-release fertilizer

In fact, most household flower growing involves few fertilizer applications, or even infrequent care. For convenience and labor saving, agricultural scientists developed lazy-person fertilizer - slow-release fertilizer. Apply the fertilizer in the pot, and the nutrients in it will be released slowly. There is no need to worry that too much fertilizer will damage the plant. However, stop fertilizing after October and during the flowering period.

3. Topdressing

From April to October, topdress once a month except during the flowering period. Starting in April, spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate once a week until flower buds appear on most branches of the entire gardenia.

After buds appear, water the roots twice with potassium dihydrogen phosphate, which can enhance the plant's stress resistance and promote larger flowers and richer fragrance. But once the flower buds crack and show white, stop fertilizing.

4. Fertilizing after repotting

If repotted, place the plant in a cool place to recover, and fertilize only after the recovery period has passed.

When does gardenia bloom?

The flowering period of gardenia is in spring and summer. It can bloom continuously from May-June to August, but there may also be individual cases of earlier or relatively later blooming. Different regions have different flowering times due to different climates. The flowering period of gardenia is relatively long; one flower can bloom for 3-5 days. Sometimes, a larger gardenia plant can have a flowering period as long as 1 month.

How to make gardenia bloom

1. Water and fertilizer management

Pay attention to reasonable watering and fertilizing in daily care, and during the flower bud differentiation stage, increase the application of flower fertilizer rich in phosphorus and potassium to promote flowering.

2. Light

Generally, pay attention to shading in summer. In winter, place gardenia in a warm indoor spot with relatively good light for care, to avoid failure to bloom due to light problems.

3. Soil acidification

Before planting gardenia, the soil can be acidified to change the acidity and alkalinity of the soil, which is beneficial to gardenia growth.

4. Daily care

Prune the plant in time according to gardenia growth so that it grows and blooms normally. During planting, attention should also be paid to pest control.

As described above, the cultivation method of gardenia is very simple, and it even easily fills the pot, so do not be discouraged if you do not achieve the expected state during cultivation. Carefully analyze the reasons and treat the symptoms accordingly. I believe that as long as you care for it carefully and attentively, gardenia will certainly live up to expectations.

How to grow potted gardenia. Gardenia cultivation methods and precautions

Gardenia is a common household plant. It stays green all year round, and its flowers are fragrant and elegant, especially clear and lovely. It is a household plant that many people like to grow. So how do you grow potted gardenia at home? Below is a detailed introduction to gardenia cultivation methods and precautions.

Gardenia introduction

Gardenia, also known as zhizi, originated in China and is mainly distributed in Sichuan, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Anhui, Jiangxi, Guangdong, Yunnan, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Hunan, and other places. Gardenia leaves stay green all year round, and its flowers are fragrant and elegant. With green leaves and white flowers, it is especially clear and lovely. It is suitable for placement in front of steps, beside ponds, and along roadsides. Planted in the ground or in pots in courtyards, patios, and under tree shade, it grows well. It can also be used as a flower hedge and for potted ornamental display. The flowers can also be used for flower arrangements and worn as decorations. Gardenia likes a warm, humid, and sunny environment. It is relatively cold-tolerant, tolerant of semi-shade, fears waterlogging, and requires loose, fertile, acidic sandy loam.

How to grow potted gardenia

I. Gardenia propagation methods

Cutting method

Gardenia branches root very easily. In warm southern regions, cuttings are often taken from March to October, while in the north they are often taken from May to June. Cut healthy mature branches and insert them into a sand bed. As long as moisture is maintained regularly, they root and survive very easily. Water cuttings are far superior to soil cuttings, with a survival rate close to 100%. Carry out from April to July. Cut the cuttings, keeping only the top 2 leaves and the terminal bud, and insert them into a container filled with clear water. Change the water frequently to prevent the cut from rotting. Roots begin to grow after 3 weeks.

Layering method

Generally carried out around Qingming in April or during the plum rain season. In April, select 1-year-old vigorous branches from a 3-year-old mother plant, 25-30 cm long, for layering. Pull them to the ground and notch the part of the branch that enters the soil. If the notched part can be dipped in 200 ppm powdered naphthalene acetic acid and then covered with soil and pressed firm, rooting is even easier. If there is a three-forked branch, one can obtain three seedlings at once from the fork. Generally, roots form after 20-30 days. After rooting in June, they can be separated from the mother plant, and by the next spring they can be planted separately with soil or potted individually.

For transplanting seedlings or potting, spring is best, carried out during the plum rain season, and a soil ball is required. During the growing period, keep the soil moist. Water more during the flowering period and midsummer. Fertilize once a month, and apply an additional phosphorus-potassium fertilizer once before flowering. In early spring of the following year, prune and shape, and promptly cut off dead branches and leggy branches.

Sowing method

Generally select plump, dark red mature fruits, dry them in the shell in the sun or in the shade as seeds. Before sowing, cut open the seed fruit skin with scissors, dig out the seeds, rub them apart in hot water, remove floating seeds or impurities, then scoop out the sunken plump seeds, spread them on a bamboo mat, and place them in a ventilated place to dry off excess moisture. Generally choose a sunny hillside or soil plot with deep, loose, fertile sandy loam for sowing. It can be planted at field edges and corners, or intercropped with leguminous plants. Before planting, plow the land 1-1.5 chi, remove stumps and miscellaneous trees, and make beds with a bed surface width of 4-5 chi (the distance can be larger if the soil is good, otherwise smaller), with a bed height of 6 cun. Apply farmyard manure, green manure, or human and animal manure water as base fertilizer, for example 20-30 dan of human excrement and urine per mu. After the soil dries, shallowly rake the clods and level the bed surface. Open sowing furrows on the bed surface at a row spacing of 6-7 cun, with a furrow depth of about 1 cun, ready for sowing.

Gardenia can be sown in spring or autumn, generally mostly in spring. Spring sowing is done around Yushui, and autumn sowing around Qiufen. When sowing, mix the seeds with plant ash and sow them evenly in the sowing furrows, then cover and level the furrows with fine soil or burned soil, cover with grass and sprinkle water, and keep the soil moist regularly to facilitate seedling emergence. Use 4-6 jin of seeds per mu. After emergence, promptly remove the covering grass. During the seedling stage, weed frequently, taking care not to damage the seedling roots. After weeding, topdress with diluted human excrement and urine water each time. After one year of seedling cultivation, they can be transplanted. If transport is relatively far, it is advisable to coat the roots with yellow mud slurry, cover with grass to retain moisture, plant one plant per hole, then cover with soil, press firm, and sprinkle water. After planting, cultivate and weed once each in spring and summer every year and topdress, applying human and animal manure, stable manure, compost, cake fertilizer, and so on. Before flowering in summer, fertilizer with relatively higher phosphorus and potassium content is better. Fertilizing is generally done after weeding and loosening the soil.

II. Potted gardenia cultivation methods

1. Soil selection

Gardenia is an acid-loving flower, with a suitable pH value of 5 to 6. If the soil acidity is unsuitable, future management will yield twice the effort for half the result. For cultivation soil, choose leaf mold, peat soil, or composted sawdust plus half garden soil. Avoid old wall soil and coal cinder; using commercially available clivia soil is more convenient and practical. If the soil and water-fertilizer contain alkali, the plant cannot absorb iron, thereby affecting chlorophyll formation and causing branch withering, leaf scorching, and even death.

2. Propagation methods

Cuttings and layering are commonly used for propagation. For cuttings, in the plum rain season use young branches 15 baimi long, insert them into a seedling bed, and roots form in 10-12 days. For layering, in April select 2-year-old branches, 20-25 cm long, press and bury them in the soil, keep moist, and roots form in about 30 days. Separate from the mother plant in summer and plant separately the following spring. For transplanting seedlings or potting, spring is best, carried out during the plum rain season, and a soil ball is required. During the growing period, keep the soil moist. Water more during the flowering period and midsummer. Fertilize once a month, and apply an additional phosphorus-potassium fertilizer once before flowering. In early spring of the following year, prune and shape, and promptly cut off dead branches and leggy branches. Related recommendation: Gardenia propagation methods

3. Potting

Potted gardenia is best potted around April, using loose, slightly acidic soil. After planting, water thoroughly, place in semi-shade outdoors, and pay attention to watering and spraying the leaves. After about 15 days, once it has recovered, move to normal care.

Daily care and precautions for potted gardenia

1. Watering

How to water gardenia cultivation

Gardenia likes moist soil and relatively high air humidity. During the growing period from April to September, keep the pot soil moist. Water when the pot soil surface looks dry, and in the evening you can use a spray bottle to sprinkle water on the leaves. If the soil dries out completely and the plant wilts, it will be detrimental to growth. For plants that grow too vigorously with longer internodes, do not water at night; water after the sun comes out in the morning. In northern areas with alkaline water, tap water should be left to stand for two days before use. Every three to five days, water thoroughly once with a water solution containing 0.5 g citric acid and 1 g ferrous sulfate per liter, which can make the leaves glossy and emerald green.

2. Fertilizing

Topdress promptly in May, applying 1-2 times a nitrogen-phosphorus combined fertilizer. At the same time, note that the pot soil must not be too wet, and avoid poor drainage after rain or waterlogging, otherwise it will cause leaf drop or flower bud rot and failure to bloom. Gardenia likes fertilizer, and it is suitable to apply decomposed soybean cake, sesame paste residue, peanut bran, and other fertilizers. After fermentation and decomposition, they can be acidic, but fertilizer must be applied lightly and frequently. Avoid concentrated fertilizer and raw fertilizer. Do not fertilize during dormancy. For plants grown less than three years, avoid applying human excrement and urine. Applying too much nitrogen fertilizer causes thick branches, large leaves, and dark green color, but no flowering. When phosphorus and potassium fertilizer are deficient, there will also be failure to bloom or flower bud withering and dropping.

3. Light

Gardenia likes cool shade and must not be exposed to scorching sun, but some people mistakenly think that gardenia requires full shade, leading to mistakes in cultivation. In fact, while paying attention to maintaining a cool environment, it is necessary to maintain 60% sunlight all day to meet its growth needs. In summer and autumn, prevent scorching sun exposure to avoid yellowing and withering of leaves and affecting ornamental value. Entering April, apply a light fertilizer once every 10—15 days, and once there are flower buds, do not water too much. This flower fears waterlogging; once waterlogged, the leaf edges turn black.

4. Humidity

It likes moisture. If air humidity is below 70%, it will directly affect flower bud differentiation and flower bud growth, but excessive moisture will also cause root rot, branch withering, and yellow leaves falling off. In addition to normal watering, frequently spray clear water on the leaves and nearby ground to appropriately increase air humidity. Once there are flower buds, do not water too much, otherwise it will cause bud drop. Apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and thin buds to prevent bud drop. Generally, when the soil looks dry, tap the clay pot with your hand (like tapping a watermelon); if you hear that hollow dong dong sound, water until water leaks from the bottom. Use tap water that was drawn the day before and left standing for a day and night. Mix in some decomposed upper-layer fertilizer water made from rice-washing water, lemon peel, crushed bones, eggs, soybean milk, and so on. It smells a little bad, but after watering it disperses after a while. Alternatively, leave rice-washing water for a few days until it turns sour, then water the roots with it.

5. Temperature

Likes warmth: growing period 18°C to 22°C, overwintering period 5°C to 10°C; below -10°C it is prone to freezing damage.

6. Pot placement

Gardenia likes semi-shade, so potted plants should be placed in semi-shade for care, and must not be exposed to scorching summer sun. In winter, appropriate freeze protection and warmth should be provided, placing it on a south-facing, windbreak, warm balcony or in a warm shed to overwinter.

7. Prune at the right time

Gardenia needs timely pruning

Gardenia has strong sprouting ability and easily has overlapping branches, poor ventilation, and dispersed nutrients. When shaping, select and retain three main branches according to the tree form, and remove other branches sprouting from root suckers at any time. After flowers fade, the branches should be shortened in time to promote new branches to sprout below the cut. When new branches grow three nodes, pinch the tips to prevent blind growth.

8. Repot and change the soil at the right time

Use a small pot for seedlings, then gradually move them into larger pots. When the crown width is 2 to 3 times the pot diameter, it is time to repot. Repotting can be done at any time during the growing season. After knocking the plant out of its pot, plant it into the new pot with the root ball intact; the new pot should be about 5 cm larger in diameter than the original one. For potted plants at home, once the pot reaches about 28 cm, generally do not repot again, but only replace the potting soil. Changing the soil in March of spring is better. After knocking the plant out of the pot, cut off some old roots, shake off half of the old soil, plant it into the pot with new soil, then water thoroughly, place it in a warm, semi-shaded spot, and move it into sunlight for care when new buds begin to sprout.

9. Winter dormancy

Gardenia can overwinter outdoors in the Qinling area of China, but after a harsh winter, the roots of potted gardenia will be damaged and recovery in spring will be slow. Overwintering indoors with heating avoids freezing damage, but with insufficient light the plant grows weak and spindly, most young buds formed in autumn drop off, and flowering is late the following year. A better method is to place the potted plant in a cold room at about 5°C to make it go dormant, or wrap the pot well with foam plastic or other insulating materials to protect the root system, and place it in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot to overwinter, so it recovers quickly in spring and blooms early.

10. Prevent chlorosis

There are four causes: ① Iron deficiency. Excessive lime, alkali, phosphorus, manganese, etc. in the soil can all affect the plant's absorption of iron and the formation of chlorophyll, causing the veins of young leaves to lose green, which then spreads across the whole leaf. You can apply 1/500 ferrous sulfate water or 0.2% black alum water, once every 10 days. ② Magnesium deficiency. Acidic red soil and excessive potassium or ammonium are all prone to causing magnesium deficiency, making the veins of the lower old leaves lose green and turn yellow. A 1% to 2% magnesium sulfate solution can be sprayed on, but excessive magnesium application will cause calcium deficiency and hinder the development of the xylem in roots and stems. ③ Potting soil too wet or too dry. ④ Exposure to blazing sun in summer.

11. Pests and diseases

Leaf spot and chlorosis often occur. For leaf spot, spray 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution; to prevent and control chlorosis, regularly add 0.1% ferrous sulfate solution to the water when watering. Pests include slug moths, scale insects and whiteflies. Use 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate at 3000 times dilution to spray and kill slug moths, and 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution to spray and kill scale insects and whiteflies.