Potted Cyclamen Care: Growing Methods and Key Management and Maintenance Points

Cyclamen, also known as radish begonia, rabbit ear flower, rabbit flower, yipin crown, bonfire flower, and fan-petal lotus, is a perennial herbaceous plant in the primrose family (Primulaceae), genus Cyclamen. It is a commonly cultivated flower, suitable for growing in indoor pots, and requires greenhouse cultivation in winter. Below, the editor will introduce the growing methods for cyclamen!

Cyclamen's Growth Habits

Cyclamen prefers warmth and fears intense heat. It grows best in cool environments and in fertile sandy loam rich in humus. It is relatively cold-tolerant and can withstand temperatures as low as 0°C without freezing damage.

From autumn to the following spring is its growing season, and it is semi-dormant in summer. The suitable growing temperature in winter is between 12-16°C. To promote flowering, it should not exceed 18-22°C. Above 0°C, plants will enter dormancy; above 35°C, plants are prone to rot and death. In winter it can tolerate low temperatures, but below 5°C growth slows, flower color becomes dull, and flowering is reduced.

Supplementing carbon dioxide gas in winter can promote growth and flowering. During the growing period, it requires a humid atmosphere and plenty of sunlight.

Cyclamen's Propagation Methods

Cyclamen's main propagation methods include seed propagation, tuber division propagation, and tissue culture propagation. Let's take a look at cyclamen's propagation methods together!

1. Seed propagation

Seed propagation is one of the commonly used methods for propagating cyclamen. Cyclamen seeds can only be obtained after artificial pollination. The seeds generally mature in May and should be harvested promptly. Cyclamen seeds are relatively large, with a thousand-grain weight of about 10 g, and the germination rate is generally 85%-95%. To promote seed germination, seeds can be soaked before sowing to speed up sprouting: soak in cold water for 24 h or in 30°C warm water for 2-3 h, then wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap in a wet cloth to promote germination, and maintain at 25°C for 1-2 d. Once the seeds show slight signs of sprouting, they can be taken out and sown. Sowing time is generally in September-October, and ordinary flower pots can be used for sowing.

The sowing soil is best as sandy loam rich in humus, and it can only be used after being finely sieved. When sowing, first place the soil in the pot, sprinkle it thoroughly with water using a watering can, and after the water has completely drained, immediately sow the seeds in the pot at a spacing of 1-1.5 cm. After sowing, cover with 0.5 cm of soil, and cover with glass or plastic film to retain moisture, placing it in a semi-shaded area at 20-22°C. When the pot soil is slightly dry, use the bottom-soaking method to soak it thoroughly so that the pot soil remains consistently moist. Under normal conditions, seedlings can emerge in about 20 d. When the young seedling leaves have fully unfolded, the first transplanting can be carried out. For transplanting, ordinary flower pots can still be used, with the same soil as for sowing. The spacing between seedlings should be about 3 cm. After transplanting, immediately sprinkle thoroughly with water using a watering can. Afterward, simply keep the seedling pot moist.

When the seedlings have grown 3 leaves and the small corms have reached 5-6 mm in diameter, they should be divided and potted in time. They can be directly transplanted individually into small pots with a 9 cm diameter.

After sieving the pot soil, mix it in the following proportions: 2 parts leaf mold, 2 parts garden soil, 5 parts fine yellow sand, and 1 part decomposed manure powder. When transplanting, keep as much of the small soil ball as possible and make it level with the soil surface. After transplanting, sprinkle thoroughly with water and place indoors in sunlight. After the seedlings resume growth, water and fertilize promptly. Generally, they can bloom by the winter of the following year.

2. Tuber division propagation

Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally produce offsets, so they cannot be propagated by dividing bulbs like ordinary bulbous flowers; they require manual cutting for propagation. Generally in late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several pieces. Each piece should have a bud eye. Coat the cut surfaces with plant ash, let them dry slightly, and then plant them separately in flower pots. With careful management, they will soon unfold leaves and bloom.

3. Tissue culture propagation

Cyclamen tissue culture propagation can use flower stamens, tubers, leaves, young stems, etc. as explants, generally collected from one- to two-year-old young plants. Among these, tubers as explants most easily induce seedling formation. When using tubers as explants, MS medium can be selected, with MS+3 mg/L 6-BA+1 mg/L NAA as the induction medium, 1/2 MS+0.3 mg/L NAA as the rooting medium, and MS+3 mg/L 6-BA+0.4 mg/L NAA as the subculture medium.

Cyclamen's Growing Methods

Cyclamen's dormant corms generally begin to sprout new buds from late August to mid-September, at which time the pot soil should be replaced promptly. The culture soil should be mixed in the following proportions: 3 parts leaf mold, 4 parts fine yellow sand, 2 parts garden soil, and 1 part decomposed dry manure powder. When repotting, the corm should retain only part of the old soil. Planting should not be too deep; generally, it is appropriate for the top 1/3 of the corm to be exposed above the soil surface. After initial planting, the pot soil should not be too wet; slight moisture is sufficient. Afterward, according to the plant's sprouting condition, gradually increase watering and provide ample sunlight. After the leaves grow out, keep the pot soil consistently moist. At the same time, apply a diluted decomposed liquid fertilizer once a week until fertilization is stopped before flowering. When fertilizing and watering, avoid submerging the top of the corm; otherwise, the terminal bud is prone to rot. After each fertilization, rinse once with clean water.

Adult cyclamen corms generally begin to bloom by early December and reach full bloom in February and March of the following year. To prolong the flowering period, they can be placed in a cooler location after flowering. After that, as the external temperature rises, flowering gradually decreases by May, but late-flowering varieties can still bloom in June. Because summers in northern regions are relatively cool, as long as ventilation and shading are provided, some varieties can also bloom in summer. However, most begin to lose leaves after June, at which point watering should be gradually reduced, and it is appropriate to keep the pot soil slightly dry.

By July, they enter the dormant period. During dormancy, the indoor area must be well ventilated, maintain a cool environment, with the maximum temperature not exceeding 30°C, and water sparingly, especially avoiding rain exposure.

Old cyclamen corms bloom later each year, but produce more flowers, with a maximum of more than 50 flowers in a single bloom. After 4 years of blooming, old corms gradually age, the number of flowers greatly decreases, and they lose cultivation value. The corms are also prone to rot and should be renewed promptly.

Cyclamen's Management and Maintenance

When cultivating, the soil should be loose. A mixed culture soil of 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, and a small amount of superphosphate can be used. Dried and crushed river mud can also be used, or a mixed culture soil of 2 parts peat and 1 part perlite. The culture soil needs fumigation and disinfection. When repotting, gradually increase the pot size according to the plant's size; it is not advisable to directly use a large pot to cultivate small seedlings. When planting, shallow planting is appropriate. When potting or repotting large seedlings, 2/3-1/2 of the corm should be above the soil surface to prevent the corm from rotting due to moisture in the soil. Avoid applying concentrated fertilizer; concentrated fertilizer easily damages roots. Topdressing can be done about 3 times a month. Before fertilizing, loosen the soil. Choose sunny days for topdressing. Fertilizer should not be applied from the top of the plant; it is best applied to the side. After fertilizing, spray water to rinse. Cyclamen's maintenance and management can be roughly divided into 5 stages:

1. Seedling stage: When the first leaf has fully grown and true leaves first appear, transplanting is required. When the seedlings have 3-4 leaves, they can be planted in flower pots with a diameter of 10 cm. Later, as the plant grows, repot into larger pots. The latest repotting time should not exceed June. If the seedlings are small, they can be left in small pots to spend the summer. Seedlings need shading. In hot weather, frequently loosen the soil, weed, water, and fertilize.

2. Summer seedling preservation stage: Summer temperatures are high, which is extremely unfavorable for cyclamen growth. Cooling equipment should be used to lower the environmental temperature so they can safely pass the summer. To avoid high temperatures, use two layers of shade netting for shading, control watering, and stop fertilizing.

3. First-year flowering stage: After entering autumn, growth resumes, and watering can be gradually increased and thin fertilizer applied. In mid-October, place in a sunny location. The greenhouse air should be humid. Fertilize 2-3 times a month. From mid-December to early February, fertilization is generally not needed, but in higher-temperature environments, fertilization may continue. Flowering generally begins in November.

4. Summer corm dormancy stage: After May, leaves gradually turn yellow, and watering should be gradually stopped to allow dormancy. After the leaves have completely withered, place in a low-temperature, ventilated environment so the corm can safely pass the summer. Generally, place the pot in a cool, rain-sheltered location.

5. Second-year flowering stage: After the hot summer, water lightly to allow the corm to revive and sprout. After sprouting, repot with fresh culture soil and remove rotted roots. Maintain in a greenhouse, and it can bloom around December. After flowering, it again enters the summer corm dormancy period. Newly propagated seedlings generally begin to bloom in November. If during the bud stage the temperature is maintained at 15°C-20°C and 100 mg/L gibberellin is sprayed on the flower buds and pedicels, it can promote pedicel elongation and accelerate flowering.

Cyclamen's Pest and Disease Control

Cyclamen's main pests and diseases include root-knot nematode disease, gray mold, viral disease, cotton aphid, green peach aphid, etc. Let's take a look at the control methods for these pests and diseases!

1. Root-knot nematode disease

① Use granular formulations such as ethoprophos, dichloroisopropyl ether, fosthiazate (Yishoubao), fenamiphos (Limanku), and dazomet (Bisumie) for soil treatment.

② Soak infected corms in 50°C water for 10 minutes to kill nematodes.

2. Gray mold

① Use fungicides when planting, such as thiram and dexon, for soil disinfection treatment or replace with new soil to prevent soil-borne disease transmission.

② Strengthen indoor ventilation, appropriately lower humidity, avoid excessive watering, and avoid directly watering the leaf surface. During maintenance and management, avoid causing wounds to prevent pathogen invasion.

③ Promptly remove diseased plants and leaves to reduce sources of pathogens.

④ Before disease onset, spray protective fungicides, such as: 600-800 times dilution of Ludeobao, 800-1000 times dilution of 75% chlorothalonil. At disease onset, spray therapeutic fungicides, such as: 800-1000 times dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl, 500-800 times dilution of 50% carbendazim, etc.

3. Viral disease

① Inhibit seed-borne virus: treat with 75% alcohol for 1 min, then treat with 10% trisodium phosphate for 15 min, rinse the seed surface clean of the chemical solution with distilled water, then place in 35°C warm water and let it cool naturally for 24 h, and sow in sterilized soil. Seed detoxification: place seeds in 40% polyethylene glycol solution and treat at a constant temperature of 38.5°C for 48 h. The seed detoxification rate can reach 77.7%.

② Use tissue-cultured seedlings with corms, leaf tips, and petioles as explants to reduce the virus-carrying rate.

③ The planting soil should be disinfected, or use sterilized vermiculite, perlite, sand, etc.

4. Root rot

Root rot is a seedling-stage disease. The roots become water-soaked, softened, and rotted. Diseased seedlings wilt, turn yellow, and die. Control measures:

① Soak seeds in 0.1% copper sulfate solution for half an hour for disinfection treatment.

② Before sowing, spray 1800-2000 times dilution of potassium permanganate solution on the soil for disinfection.

③ Strengthen ventilation, control humidity, and appropriately ventilate to harden seedlings and enhance resistance.

④ In the early stage of disease, use 72.2% Previcur AS, 50% Likuqing, or 1000 times dilution of 40% Genfuning for spraying or root drenching control.

5. Bacterial soft rot

Leaves produce water-soaked lesions, then become soft and rotted, exuding white bacterial ooze, and the plant wilts and dies. Control measures:

① Remove diseased leaves and pull out diseased plants.

② Control watering and pay attention to ventilation.

③ Spray with 1000-2000 times dilution of 50% Xiaojunling wettable powder for control.

6. Anthracnose

Anthracnose harms leaves and pedicels. Brown circular lesions appear initially, then black dots appear later, and in humid conditions a red sticky mass oozes out. Control measures:

① Promptly prune diseased leaves.

② Strengthen ventilation and light transmission, and reduce humidity.

③ Use 60% Anthracnose Fumei or 800-1000 times dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder for control.

7. Bean seed fly

Bean seed fly larvae harm young stems and roots, and in severe cases the seedlings wither and die. For control, use 3000 times dilution of 2.5% deltamethrin EC, and spraying the ground around the plant as well gives better results.

8. Mites

Mite pests mainly harm corms, leaves, and flowers, causing flower buds to rot and leaves to lose greenness, twist, and deform. Control measures:

① Remove weeds to reduce pest population.

② Spray 2000 times dilution of 73% propargite EC. When pest density is high, spray 2-4 times consecutively, with each interval of 10 days.

9. Thrips

Thrips mainly harm young tender leaves and flowers, causing spots and streaks. Tender buds, new leaves, and flowers wilt, and leaves twist and turn yellow and withered. Control measures:

① Hang blue sticky insect boards.

② Spray 1000 times dilution of 50% phoxim EC or 2000-2500 times dilution of 10% imidacloprid wettable powder for control.

10. Aphids

Aphids mainly harm young leaves and flower buds, forming galls, inducing sooty mold, and transmitting viruses. Control measures:

① Release natural enemies such as ladybugs and lacewings for control.

② Set up sticky insect boards to trap and kill, or cover with plastic film to avoid aphids.

③ Alternately spray 2000 times dilution of 50% pirimicarb wettable powder and 1500 times dilution of 10% imidacloprid for control.

11. Woodlice

Woodlice gnaw on leaves, roots, and stems, causing notches and rotting in leaves and stems. Control measures:

① Remove weeds and scatter quicklime powder.

② Spray the ground and grass curtains with 500 times dilution of 50% carbaryl wettable powder, or 2000 times dilution of 2.5% deltamethrin, to lure and poison them.

12. Slugs

Slugs scrape and eat leaves until the plant withers and dies. Control measures:

① Apply decomposed organic fertilizer.

② Cultivate on high beds, cover with plastic film, and break the film to lift seedlings, reducing damage.

③ Soak camellia seed cake powder in clean water at a 1:10 ratio for 24 h, filter, then dilute the filtrate with clean water 20-50 times and pour on the seedbed or spray.

④ Scatter quicklime powder around the damaged plants.

⑤ In the evening, scatter 2% metaldehyde bait on the field ridges to lure and kill.

13. Scale insects

Scale insects mainly harm cyclamen leaves and flowers. Control measures:

① Promptly remove diseased insect-carrying plants.

② Spray 1000 times dilution of 10% imidacloprid EC or 1500 times dilution of 25% Fenjieling for control.

How to Grow Cyclamen: Growing Methods and Precautions

Cyclamen has bright flower colors and a pleasant fragrance. Once made into a potted plant, it looks especially beautiful placed indoors. But how should this beautiful cyclamen be grown? Cyclamen's growing methods are not complicated; there are just some areas during cultivation that require special attention. In a moment, the editor will specifically introduce this knowledge for everyone.

1. Soil and flower pots

When growing cyclamen, a suitable culture soil must be selected. It is best to mix 3 parts humus soil, 2 parts leaf mold, 2 parts cinder residue, and 2 parts river sand, and also add an appropriate amount of superphosphate. This picture should also be properly matched. After that, it must be treated and strictly disinfected. Also, the size of the flower pot should match the size of the cyclamen corm; a situation where a large pot is used to cultivate small seedlings should not occur.

2. Growing environment

When growing cyclamen, this plant has certain requirements for its growing environment. It likes to grow in a warm environment around 20 degrees. If the environmental temperature is too low, it will affect cyclamen's normal flowering. In addition, growing cyclamen requires ensuring sufficient light. Normally, it should receive no less than five hours of light per day, but in summer shading treatment must be carried out; otherwise, it will affect the flowering period and also cause its leaves to turn yellow.

1. Timely fertilization

When growing cyclamen normally, be sure to fertilize in a timely manner, because it is a fertilizer-loving plant, but it does not like concentrated fertilizer. In normal cultivation, besides applying sufficient base fertilizer in the pot soil, topdressing should also be done once every half month. Organic liquid fertilizer can be chosen. The fertilizer should be diluted with water before application, and after application, water thoroughly in time.

2. Watch out for pests and diseases

When growing cyclamen, also watch out for pests and diseases. Aphids and leaf roller insects are common cyclamen pests. They can usually be prevented through temperature and humidity regulation, but after pests and diseases occur, pesticides need to be sprayed promptly; otherwise, the pests are difficult to eradicate and will directly affect cyclamen's growth.

How to Grow Cyclamen: Growing Methods and Precautions

Cyclamen is a very beautiful potted flower. I believe many friends who like flowers have some understanding of what cyclamen's flower language is, but friends growing cyclamen for the first time must really want to know how to grow cyclamen! Understanding cyclamen's growing methods and precautions in advance is still very important. Let the editor of Huayu Network answer for you how to grow cyclamen!

Cyclamen's Growing Methods

1. Cultivation requirements:

(1) Pot soil: The substrate needs to be loose, breathable, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Generally, a mixed substrate of peat and perlite is used for cultivation. A mix of leaf mold and cinder ash can also be used for cultivation. During cultivation, the substrate must be disinfected and sterilized to prevent damping-off, root rot, etc. Cyclamen likes water but dislikes moisture. The pot soil needs to remain moist, but water accumulation or waterlogging must be strictly prevented; otherwise, once the root system rots, the entire plant will quickly die.

(2) Moisture: Moisture is very important in cyclamen's growing methods. Because the whole cyclamen plant is succulent, it is also not drought-tolerant. If water supply is not timely, the leaves will quickly show yellowing and wilting. Even after supplemental watering, many leaves will still turn yellow and need pruning, seriously affecting the overall appearance and growth of the plant.

(3) Light: Cyclamen prefers a sunny, humid, and cool environment, but fears waterlogging, so cyclamen must be placed in a sunny location for cultivation.

(4) Temperature: Cyclamen likes a warm environment and is not tolerant of high temperatures or severe cold. The maximum temperature must not exceed 30°C; otherwise, it will enter a dormant state. High temperatures around 35°C easily cause rot and necrosis. In winter, it is best to maintain 10-20°C. Below 5°C, growth is inhibited, leaves curl, and flowers open poorly with dull color. In summer, place it in a humid, ventilated area and keep the pot soil somewhat dry so it can fully dormant through the summer.

(5) Environment: The growing environment is also a very important part of how to grow cyclamen. Cyclamen likes a humid environment and is not tolerant of dryness. During the growing period, humidity needs to be maintained between 60-70%, which can make the leaf color deep green and glossy. In winter, it should not be placed where it can be directly exposed to heating or air conditioning, to prevent wilting and drying from wind. When spraying water, avoid the flowers to prevent them from fading prematurely. The water temperature should be close to room temperature.

(6) Fertilization: During cyclamen's growth and development period, fertilize once every ten days, and gradually increase sunlight exposure so the petioles do not grow too long and affect appearance. When the peduncles emerge to the bud stage, apply an additional application of bone meal or superphosphate. In the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, flowering can occur around New Year's Day. During the flowering period, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and control watering. Especially on rainy and snowy days, water must not be poured on flower buds and tender leaves; otherwise, they are prone to rot and normal flowering will be affected. After flowering, apply bone meal once more to benefit fruit development and seed maturation. In the early growth stage of cyclamen, a 20-20-20 general fertilizer can be used, that is, nitrogen (N) 20%, phosphorus (P2O5) 20%, and potassium (K2O) 20%. During the flowering period, a 15-15-20 water-soluble high-efficiency nutrient solution specially for potted flowers can be used.

2. Management during germination stage:

For cyclamen, the germination stage requires peat and perlite with good air permeability mixed in a certain proportion, with a pH of 6 to 6.5, an EC value less than 0.5, and moderate humidity; excessive moisture should be avoided. The temperature should be around 18°C. The germination stage (about 21 days) requires no light and should be completely dark. The air humidity required for seed germination is 95% (preferably with a germination room). Cover the plug tray with plastic film. After sowing, cover the seeds with vermiculite or perlite, with a thickness just enough to cover the seeds.

3. Management after germination:

So, how should cyclamen be grown after germination? For management after cyclamen germination, it is best to control humidity at around 85%, and if necessary, spray to increase relative humidity. When the external light intensity exceeds 35 Klux, it is recommended to use shade netting, or cover the seed plug tray with non-woven fabric to keep the seeds moist. According to seedling growth, start fertilizing from the 5th week after sowing, with an N:P:K ratio of 1:1:1. Seedling leaves should be glossy; if they appear dark red, fertilization is needed. When watering, be sure the water temperature is greater than 14°C and water from above.

4. Pest and disease control:

In cyclamen's growing methods, what we must understand is that cyclamen has more diseases than pests. Common ones in home maintenance include:

① Gray mold. The main symptom is water-soaked small spots 1-2 mm in diameter at the diseased area, which gradually expand and become brown rot. When the petiole or flower stalk is infected, the leaves or flowers bend and break, and there is a gray mold layer at the diseased area, which later becomes earthy yellow mold. The cause is high humidity and poor ventilation. For control: first, ventilate promptly to reduce air humidity; second, promptly remove diseased leaves to reduce sources of infection; third, spray broad-spectrum fungicides such as zineb and carbendazim.

② Soft rot. It is mostly caused by bacterial infection. The diseased area shows soft rot, and the affected area is mostly the corm. It is mainly caused by incomplete or absent substrate disinfection and easily occurs under high temperature or high humidity. For control, spray agricultural streptomycin or carbendazim, etc.

After reading the editor's introduction, everyone should have a good understanding of how to grow cyclamen. Now let's take a look at the key points for caring for cyclamen!

Key points for growing cyclamen

1. Care during the dormant period

When summer temperatures exceed 28°C, the cyclamen's tuber will begin to go dormant, and getting through the summer safely is one of the difficult points in cyclamen growing methods and precautions. Healthy seedlings are the best way to get through the summer. Sowing one-year-old seedlings, which grow vigorously, have a relatively weak tendency to go dormant in summer, and during early summer the management of fertilizer and water should be strengthened to form strong seedlings with thick leaves, many leaves, and a deep, glossy color. Such seedlings have relatively strong heat tolerance, and at the same time cooling work should be done well, covering with a shade net, increasing ventilation, and spraying water around the plants.

2. Watering should be done in the right amount

After buying a cyclamen, the most important thing is watering. Cyclamen cannot be watered too much, so we should not water it heavily as soon as it arrives home. First place it on the windowsill to let it adjust, then observe the soil. If the soil is dry, we can water it. Here we must remind flower lovers that when watering cyclamen, you cannot sprinkle water over it; you must water from the base of the leaves. If the leaves or flower stems get sprinkled with water, they easily rot.

3. Deal with withered flower stems

When we are caring for cyclamen, some flowers will wither first. We can remove the flower stems; just twist them left and right with your hand and they come off.