How to grow pothos? Home pot cultivation methods and precautions
How to grow pothos? Pothos belongs to the Araceae family as a large evergreen climbing plant, growing in tropical regions, often climbing on rocks and tree trunks in rainforests. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots, and can be grown hydroponically. Below, the editor will introduce how to grow pothos!
How to propagate pothos?
Usually pothos propagation uses the cutting method. In late spring and early summer, select healthy pothos vines, cut 15 cm to 30 cm stems, remove the leaves from 1 to 2 nodes at the base, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, then insert into plain sand or coal cinder, with a depth of 1/3 of the cutting. Water thoroughly and place in a shaded area, spray water on the leaves daily or cover with plastic film to retain moisture. As long as the environment is kept no lower than 20°C, the survival rate is above 90%. The specific cutting method is as follows:
1. Cutting selection and treatment: Cuttings should be selected from healthy, pest-free semi-lignified stems, cut into 10-13 cm lengths, with the lower cut made at an angle, leaving 2-3 leaves at the top, and cutting the leaves in half to reduce water evaporation and help the cuttings survive.
2. Cutting medium: The cutting medium requires loose, breathable, well-drained loam or sandy soil with high humus content. Vermiculite is best, as it promotes fast rooting and a high survival rate. Before inserting, disinfect the soil with 2% formalin or 5% potassium permanganate.
3. Cutting method: Quickly dip the lower end of the prepared cuttings in ABT rooting powder or indolebutyric acid, then insert into the prepared medium, burying 1/2 of the cutting. Water thoroughly so the cuttings make close contact with the medium, then cover with plastic film.
4. Post-cutting management
①After cutting, keep the soil moist and the air temperature relatively high. Soil moisture should be around 50%, while air humidity is best at 80%-90%.
②In the early stage of cutting, keep the shade shed at about 80% shading. This prevents direct strong sunlight while ensuring sufficient scattered light for photosynthesis in leafy cuttings, which is beneficial for rooting.
③Through the above treatment, roots generally form after about 20 days. The film can then be removed and light increased. On sunny summer days, still pay attention to leaf spraying and shading. In winter, protect against cold. About 10 days after rooting, the plants can be moved into pots for normal management.
How to grow pothos?
1. Light
①The original growing environment of pothos is in forests shaded by towering trees, so its positive phototropism is not strong. However, in the autumn and winter of northern regions, to compensate for insufficient temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. Pothos can be placed in the brightest spot indoors, or moved to a sealed balcony to sunbathe at noon. At the same time, when temperatures are low, windows should be opened as little as possible, because leaves can be frostbitten in a very short time.
②Indoor cultivation can be placed near a window, but direct sunlight should be avoided. Too strong sunlight will scorch pothos leaves, while too shady conditions will cause the beautiful markings on the leaves to disappear. Generally, receiving four hours of scattered light gives the best growth and development for pothos. Therefore, pothos can be placed in a bright indoor spot year-round. In dimly lit rooms, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment to recover for a period, otherwise internodes tend to elongate and leaves become smaller.
③In spring, summer, and autumn, pothos can be placed near east- or north-facing windowsills, and in winter it can be placed at a south-facing window. If kept in an overly dark environment for a long time, it will not only cause the trailing stems to grow leggy, internodes to lengthen, and the plant shape to become sparse, but the yellow-white stripes on the leaves will also become smaller and paler, and may even disappear completely and fade to green. If grown outdoors, pay attention to shading, especially in summer to prevent direct strong sunlight, otherwise new leaves will become smaller, leaf color dull, and leaf edges are easily scorched.
2. Temperature: In northern regions, pothos can safely overwinter at room temperature above 10°C, and can grow normally at room temperature above 20°C. Ordinary homes can generally reach this temperature without much trouble. It is important to avoid large temperature differences, and also make sure the leaves are not close to heating equipment.
3. Humidity: Humidity refers to the water content in the air of the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of maintaining normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. The following methods can be used to increase humidity. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running more than 5 hours per day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the saucer under the flowerpot, using its evaporation to increase the local humidity around the plant; gently wipe the leaf surface with a cold wet towel or toilet paper, or lightly apply it to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a mini greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours per day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
4. Water: In autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, when temperatures are lower and soil evaporation from the plant is slower, watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled at 1/4-1/2 of the original. Even after heating begins, watering should not be too frequent. When watering, pour less into the pot and allow water to seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the areas where aerial roots grow on the coir pole, to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by excessive evaporation. In winter, water that has been left to stand for a day after being drawn is better, as water that is too cold easily damages the roots. When growing in water, the water amount should not be too much; just enough to submerge the roots. Too much water easily causes stems and leaves to rot.
5. Soil: In winter, it can grow well under bright scattered light indoors, with sturdy stems and nodes and brilliant leaf color. During the growing period, it has relatively high water requirements. In addition to normally replenishing water to the pot soil, the leaves should also be sprayed frequently. For column-vine cultivation, more water should also be sprayed onto the coir column so the coir fully absorbs water for the aerial roots winding around the stem to absorb. A nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer can be applied once every 2 weeks, or a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed weekly, making the leaves emerald green and the markings more vivid. Pothos likes moisture. During the growing season, watering should keep the pot soil moist regularly. Do not let the pot soil dry out, otherwise it easily causes yellow leaves and a poor plant shape. If overwatering causes waterlogging in the pot, it easily causes root rot and withered leaves, especially when winter room temperatures are low, when watering control is even more important. In summer, while watering thoroughly, also pay attention to frequently spraying water on the leaf surface. In winter, when the climate is dry, the leaves also need to be sprayed and washed once every 4-5 days with warm water to wash away dust on the leaf surface, helping keep the leaves glossy and emerald green.
6. Fertilization: In the autumn and winter of northern regions, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilization should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly apply liquid inorganic fertilizer, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilization should mainly be foliar spraying, mainly through the stomata on the leaf surface. Fertilizer is absorbed through the stomata on the leaf surface, so the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Special fertilizer should be used for foliar fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. Beida Huhuashen series and Japan-made Hana Ichiban can both be used as foliar fertilizer.
7. Shaping: Plant 4-5 plants per pot or insert cuttings directly, and set up a coir column in the middle of the pot to make it easier for pothos to twine upward. Shaping and pruning are carried out in spring. When the stems and vines have covered the coir column and the tips extend about 20 cm beyond the coir column, cut off 40 cm of the stem tips of 2-3 of the plants. After the short pruning sprouts new buds and new leaves, cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants. For potted plants that have lost leaves on the whole plant or the lower half due to winter freezing or other reasons, half of the stems and vines can be shortened by 1/2, and the other half by 2/3 or 3/4, so that the cut openings are staggered in height. In this way, the new leaves growing below the cuts can quickly cover the coir column.
How to pot pothos?
Potting pothos is relatively simple. The potting method for pothos is introduced as follows:
1. There should be at least 4 established seedlings in the pot. The pot soil should be loose, fertile, and rich in organic matter, which helps it take shape.
2. Pothos requires growth in an environment with relatively high temperatures (winter room temperature must not be lower than 10°C, otherwise yellow leaves and leaf drop easily occur) and relatively strong scattered light. If it is too dark for a long time, the internodes will become slender and weak, and the leaves will also become thinner, paler, and lose their luster.
3. In late spring and early summer (from April to August), cut 15-30 cm stems and remove the leaves from 1-2 nodes at the base.
4. Pot directly using culture soil, with 3-5 stems per pot. Water thoroughly and place in a cool, ventilated place. Keep the pot soil moist. Roots and sprouts will form in about one month, and within the same year it can grow into a plant with ornamental value.
What to do if pothos develops yellow leaves?
1. Pothos bought in winter has generally been exposed to cold, so yellow leaves will quickly appear after being placed indoors. After these cold-damaged yellow leaves fall off, new leaves will still grow again around the Spring Festival.
2. Generally, newly bought pothos has an adaptation period of about 1 month in a new environment, and yellow leaves at the bottom are normal. However, remember: do not directly peel off yellow or dead leaves. Cut them off from the middle of the petiole. This avoids excessive water loss and added wounds from direct peeling, which would cause the upper leaves to turn yellow as well.
3. Although pothos is not afraid of shade, a very dark environment can also cause yellow leaves. The position can be moved regularly to a brighter place. At the same time, it must not be exposed to harsh sun. Excessive exposure under strong light will not only cause yellow leaves and leaf drop, but also lead to the death of the whole plant.
4. If the pot soil is too dry or too wet, both conditions will cause metabolic disturbance and root damage, leading to yellow leaves and leaf drop.
5. Lack of fertilizer and malnutrition can also cause yellow leaves. At this time, fertilizer should be supplemented promptly. Beer can be appropriately used as fertilizer by mixing beer with water at a 1:1 ratio and spraying the stems and leaves.
6. Too much topdressing also easily causes root burn, leading to yellowing and withering leaves. Water can be used to dilute the fertilizer so the nutrients flow away with the water.
Pest and disease control for pothos
1. Anthracnose
[Disease characteristics] This pathogen mostly damages the middle section of leaves, and can also damage flowers. At first, small pustule-like spots appear on the diseased area, wet reddish-brown or dark brown, with a faded green halo around the spots. After expansion, they form long oval or elongated patches, with dark brown edges and yellow-brown interiors, and with ring-shaped markings formed by dark spots gathering together. Because its spots are dark brown, it is also called black spot disease or dark brown disease. It can repeatedly infect plants during the growing period.
[Control methods] ①There are many pesticides that can control anthracnose, such as mancozeb, carbendazim, thiophanate, and Tante Ling, all of which have certain control effects. ②The German-made “Shibaogong” 1500x solution is a specific remedy for treating anthracnose.
2. Root rot
[Control methods] During the disease period, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500x solution, or use 5% carbofuran granules, and they can also be used to drench the roots.
3. Leaf spot disease
[Control methods] Remove diseased leaves and pay attention to ventilation. Spray 95% amobam 500x solution, or 80% carbendazim wettable powder 1000x solution, etc., for control.
Pothos cultivation methods | Pothos cultivation methods and precautions | How to grow pothos | Pothos and spider plant cultivation methods
Pothos uses:
The place of origin of pothos is the Mexican plateau. Pothos can simultaneously purify benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde in the air, so pothos is very suitable for placement in newly renovated rooms. It also has high ornamental value. The trailing stems naturally hang down, which can both purify the air and make full use of space, adding lively lines and bright colors to dull cabinet surfaces. Therefore, pothos has the laudatory name of "efficient air purifier." Now let us introduce the cultivation methods of pothos:
Pothos pictures:
Pothos cultivation methods:
The growing environment of pothos requires a temperature above 15°C. Below this temperature range, leaves will turn yellow. Watering should keep the pot soil moist; it must not be dry, nor waterlogged for a long time. The light environment should mainly be semi-shade. When winter temperatures are lower, it can be kept in full sun; when summer sunlight is strong, direct sunlight is absolutely forbidden. However, being in dim light for a long time will also cause yellow leaves, so the position needs to be adjusted promptly. Fertilization should be applied little and often; do not feed it fully all at once, otherwise fertilizer damage easily occurs. Air humidity is suitable at 60-85%; when below 50%, leaves easily turn yellow. When harmed by red spider mites or scale insects, leaves also easily turn yellow, and the condition spreads very quickly. Pesticides specific to killing these pests should be sprayed for control. In addition, frequently wiping the leaves is a good preventive method.
In spring, summer, and autumn, pothos can be placed near east- or north-facing windowsills, and in winter it can be placed at a south-facing window. If kept in an overly dark environment for a long time, it will not only cause the trailing stems to grow leggy, internodes to lengthen, and the plant shape to become sparse, but the yellow-white stripes on the leaves will also become smaller and paler, and may even disappear completely and fade to green. If grown outdoors, pay attention to shading, especially in summer to prevent direct strong sunlight, otherwise new leaves will become smaller, leaf color dull, and leaf edges are easily scorched. The suitable temperature for pothos growth is 20°C-30°C, and winter room temperature should not be lower than 15°C, to prevent cold damage leading to withered yellow. Pothos likes moisture. During the growing season, watering should keep the pot soil moist regularly. Do not let the pot soil dry out, otherwise it easily causes yellow leaves and a poor plant shape. If overwatering causes waterlogging in the pot, it easily causes root rot and withered leaves, especially when winter room temperatures are low, when watering control is even more important. In summer, while watering thoroughly, also pay attention to frequently spraying water on the leaf surface.
In winter, when the climate is dry, the leaves also need to be sprayed and washed once every 4-5 days with warm water to wash away dust on the leaf surface, helping keep the leaves glossy and emerald green. Potted pothos should use fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold soil, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a bright indoor spot year-round. In dimly lit rooms, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment to recover for a period, otherwise internodes easily lengthen and leaves become smaller. Pothos likes a hot and humid environment. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. The pot soil should be kept moist, and the leaf surface should be sprayed frequently to increase air humidity, which is beneficial for the growth of aerial roots. Usually pothos propagation uses cutting and stem burying methods. In late spring and early summer, select healthy pothos vines, cut 15 cm to 30 cm stems, remove the leaves from 1 to 2 nodes at the base, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, then insert into plain sand or coal cinder, with a depth of 1/3 of the cutting. Water thoroughly and place in a shaded area, spray water on the leaves daily or cover with plastic film to retain moisture. As long as the environment is kept no lower than 20°C, the survival rate is above 90%. During maintenance, pay attention to the following aspects: 1. Light 2. Temperature 3. Humidity 4. Water 5. Fertilization.
What to do if pothos leaves turn yellow:
There are mainly several causes of pothos leaves turning yellow: 1. Too much watering 2. Lack of sunlight 3. Lack of fertilizer
1. Pothos itself is not tolerant of low temperatures. Long periods of low temperature combined with heavy watering can lead to root rot, causing insufficient water supply from the roots. In the end, the leaves at the roots begin to turn yellow, and the top leaves lose their luster and feel soft and limp when touched. Try drenching the roots with Genfuling. If it does not work, the only option is to cut off the vines without yellow leaves and re-cut them for propagation. In winter, keep the pot soil slightly on the dry side, and do not water unless it is dry.
2. There is another situation. If the root system is fine, then it is due to lack of fertilizer. Long-term lack of nitrogen fertilizer can also cause root leaves to turn yellow. In this case, the top leaves still have texture.
。How to grow water pothos, cultivation methods and precautions for water pothos
Water pothos belongs to the large evergreen climbing plants. Water pothos originally grows in tropical regions and often climbs on rocks and tree trunks in rainforests, and can grow into huge climbing plants. In daily life, it is a relatively common flower in entrance halls, studies, and windowsills. Water pothos can bring fresh, natural air indoors. So let us learn about how to grow water pothos, and the cultivation methods and precautions for water pothos!
How to grow water pothos, cultivation methods and precautions for water pothos:
1. Growing environment: It is understood that water pothos likes warm, humid environments and requires a growing environment with loose, fertile soil and good drainage. Water pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a bright indoor spot year-round. In dimly lit rooms, it should be moved every 14 days or so to a brighter environment to recover for a period and absorb some photosynthesis, otherwise internodes easily lengthen and leaves become smaller.
2. Temperature and photosynthesis: For water pothos in the autumn and winter of northern regions, to compensate for insufficient temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. Place water pothos in the best-lit indoor position, or move it to a sealed balcony at noon to supplement photosynthesis. At the same time, when temperatures are low, windows should be opened as little as possible; in a relatively short time, water pothos leaves may be frostbitten. Water pothos can safely overwinter at room temperature above 10°C, and can grow normally at room temperature above 20°C.
3. Watering and fertilization: Water pothos should be watered reasonably and appropriately in autumn and winter. Under lower temperature environmental conditions, watering should be reduced as much as possible. After heating begins, watering should not be too frequent. Generally, water pothos grows slowly or even stops growing in autumn and winter, so fertilization should be reduced. Before winter begins, the fertilizer applied to water pothos should mainly be liquid inorganic fertilizer, applied once every 14 days or so. After winter begins, fertilization should mainly be foliar spraying, mainly through the stomata on the leaf surface. Fertilizer is absorbed through the stomata on the leaf surface, so the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Special fertilizer should be used for foliar fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaf surface.
4. Cultivation management: Water pothos grows relatively quickly and cultivation management is relatively extensive. During cultivation management, water should be sprayed on the plant more often in summer, and nutrient solution should be added once every 10 days to keep the leaves green. For potted seedlings, when the seedlings grow 30 cm on the cultivation column, they should be pruned promptly; when fallen lower leaves reach 30%-50%, replanting should be carried out promptly. Plant 4-5 plants per pot or insert cuttings directly, to make it easier for water pothos to twine upward. Shaping and pruning are carried out in spring.
The above is how to grow water pothos, and the cultivation methods and precautions for water pothos. Growers can prune reasonably according to the growth of water pothos to improve its ornamental value.
Further reading:
How to grow pothos? Pothos cultivation methods, potting, and pruning techniques