How to grow Serissa japonica? Introduction to propagation methods and cultivation methods

Serissa japonica fears strong light, prefers a warm climate, and can also tolerate cold and drought to some extent. It likes well-drained, fertile, moist and loose soil. It is not demanding about its environment and has strong growth vigor. Grown indoors, it is pleasing to the eye and is a common household cultivated plant. Below, the editor will introduce the cultivation methods of Serissa japonica!

Propagation methods of Serissa japonica

Serissa japonica is commonly propagated by cuttings and division, and can also be propagated by layering. Cuttings can be taken throughout the year, with hardwood cuttings in February to March and softwood cuttings during the plum rain season having the highest survival rates. Cuttings taken during the plum rain season should be shaded, and winter cuttings need protection from the cold. Division is best done in early spring before budding, or in late autumn when growth has stopped.

Cuttings from dormant branches are taken from February to March, and semi-mature branch cuttings are taken from June to July. Generally, hardwood is used in early spring, but during the plum rain season, either hardwood or old branches can be used, and all require a shade frame. After inserting the cuttings, pay attention to watering and keep the seedbed moist; they root very easily.

Serissa japonica can also be propagated by the scatter-cutting method. Use an open green space, loosen the soil, break up the clods, and level it. Evenly scatter one- to two-node branches (about 3 cm) trimmed from the plant onto the previously prepared ground, press the surface soil firmly with feet or an object, and water thoroughly. After that, spray water once every other day. After ten days, rooting begins and buds sprout. After twenty-five days, apply the first dilute liquid fertilizer. At fifty days, apply a 1:1000 dilution of urea to promote seedling growth. After two months, it can be transplanted and planted out. After four months, it can be potted for cultivation, and initial cuttings can also be taken at the same time. After one year, a relatively ideal tree-stump bonsai with exposed roots can be formed. If used as a hedge, it takes only half a year to take shape.

Cultivation methods of Serissa japonica

1. Transplanting and potting: Generally, February to March is the best time for transplanting, though the plum rain season and late autumn are also good seasons. When transplanting, it is best to choose a purple clay pot or a glazed pot, and the pot color should be dark so it can form a sharp contrast with the flower color. The potting soil should be sandy soil, preferably loose, rich in organic matter, and well-drained and aerated. In addition, for fertilizer selection, it is best to mix pine needle soil, leaf mold, and peat together and add about 10% rice husk ash.

2. Water and fertilizer management: The water and fertilizer management of Serissa japonica should be appropriate, neither too dry nor too wet, keeping the potting soil moisture moderate. In winter, the frequency of watering should be reduced, while in summer, water is generally sprayed on the leaves, 1-2 times is fine. In addition, April to May every year is the best time for fertilizing, and a 0.5% phosphorus-potassium fertilizer solution can be used for irrigation. In winter, an additional topdressing can be applied, and thin organic fertilizer can be irrigated, but no fertilizer should be applied otherwise. Concentrated fertilizer is a major taboo.

3. Light and temperature requirements: Serissa japonica likes sunlight, warmth, moisture, and ventilation. Therefore, during the growing season, it should be maintained under these conditions. In summer, it should be properly shaded, and never placed in direct sunlight. In winter, it should be moved indoors and kept at a certain temperature, for example 5 to 12°C is sufficient.

4. Repotting and pruning: Repotting every other year can make the soil looser and more suitable for plant growth. At the same time, removing old soil and properly pruning the roots can also improve its ornamental value. In winter, shaping and pruning should be carried out, pruning long and short branches and thinning or thickening dense branches, which can not only remove messy branches and leaves to improve the ornamental beauty, but also cut off diseased and pest-infested branches and leaves. At the same time, by pinching, bud removal, and removing side branches, a certain shape is maintained, elegant and graceful.

5. Pest and disease control: Serissa japonica generally has fewer pests and diseases, but occasionally aphids appear. At this time, it can be sprayed with essential balm to kill the aphids, but the concentration must not be too high; diluting 500 to 600 times is more appropriate. In addition, root rot sometimes occurs. At this time, irrigate it with 800 times dilution of root rot remedy or 600-1000 times dilution of 12% copper abietate emulsifiable concentrate, spraying once every few days, three times in succession is sufficient.

Efficacy and effects of Serissa japonica

Serissa japonica, also known as Mantianxing, Ririyou, etc., is a medicinal flowering plant of the Rubiaceae family. Its nature and flavor are bitter and cool, and it has the functions of dispelling wind and draining dampness, relaxing muscles and activating collaterals, clearing heat and detoxifying, and regulating the spleen and qi. It has a certain therapeutic effect on rheumatism pain, migraine, toothache, sore throat, oral inflammation, neurodermatitis, damp-heat jaundice, herpes zoster, leukorrhea and white turbidity, etc.

How to grow Serissa japonica: cultivation methods of Serissa japonica

Serissa japonica is an evergreen small shrub of the Rubiaceae family. The flowers are solitary or several clustered at the top of branchlets or axillary. Made into a bonsai, it has ornamental value. Below, let us take a look at how to grow Serissa japonica and what its cultivation methods are like.

Introduction to Serissa japonica

Serissa japonica [Latin scientific name: Serissa japonica (Thunb.) Thunb.], an evergreen small shrub of the Rubiaceae family, can reach up to 90 cm in height and has a foul odor. Leaves are leathery with short petioles. Flowers are solitary or several clustered at the top of branchlets or axillary, the corolla is pale red or white, the style is long and prominent, and the flowering period is from May to July.

It blooms small white flowers in June, and the tree is very small with sparse branches and leaves. It likes light shade and fears the sun, and is often found under leafy trees in deep mountains. It is divided and planted in spring, or propagated by cuttings during the yellow plum rain season, and is suitable for watering with weak tea. It is not strict about temperature, being evergreen in South China and semi-evergreen in Southwest China. It has strong drought tolerance and is not strict about soil. For pot cultivation, it is best to use a moist culture soil that contains humus, is loose and fertile, has strong permeability, and is slightly acidic; it will grow well.

The roots, stems, and leaves of Serissa japonica can all be used as medicine. Bland, slightly pungent, cool. Soothing the liver and relieving depression, clearing heat and draining dampness, reducing swelling and drawing out toxins, relieving cough and resolving phlegm. Used for acute hepatitis, rheumatic waist and leg pain, carbuncles and malignant sores, snake bites, diarrhea due to spleen deficiency, infantile malnutrition, leukorrhea diseases, eye film, intestinal abscess, and rabies.

I. Morphological characteristics

Stems and branches: Serissa japonica is an evergreen or semi-evergreen clustered small shrub. The plant is low, less than 1 m tall, with many dense branches, appearing messy. Young branches are green with fine hairs and have a foul odor when rubbed; old stems are brown with obvious wrinkles, and young branches are slender, upright, and green.

Leaves: The leaves of Serissa japonica are opposite or clustered on small branches, long elliptical or long elliptical-lanceolate, about 0.7 cm to 1.5 cm long, with entire margins.

Flowers: The flowers of Serissa japonica are white with a red flush or pale pink-purple, solitary or several clustered, with a funnel-shaped corolla. Entire margins, blunt apex, thick leathery, dark green, glossy. The flowers are small, densely borne at the tips of small branches, the corolla is about 7 mm long, funnel-shaped, with soft hairs, white with a slight red flush; the calyx is green, with lobed teeth, and hard in texture.

The flowering period of Serissa japonica is from June to July.

Fruit: The small drupe of Serissa japonica is nearly spherical. Commonly cultivated forms include golden-edged Serissa japonica (leaf margins golden yellow), variegated-leaf Serissa japonica, and double-flowered Serissa japonica. In midsummer, among the green leaves, the plain and refined small white flowers bloom competitively, looking like a sky full of stars up close, hence it is also called Mantianxing.

II. Ecological habits

Serissa japonica likes sunlight and is also fairly shade-tolerant. It fears fierce wind and strong sun, and during high temperature and severe summer heat it should have light shade. It blooms small white flowers in June, and the tree is very small with sparse branches and leaves, full of elegant charm, and can be made into a potted plant. It likes light shade and fears the sun, and is often found under leafy trees in deep mountains. It is divided and planted in spring, or propagated by cuttings during the yellow plum rain season, and is suitable for watering with weak tea. It is not strict about temperature, being evergreen in South China and semi-evergreen in Southwest China. It has strong drought tolerance and is not strict about soil. For pot cultivation, it is best to use a moist culture soil that contains humus, is loose and fertile, has strong permeability, and is slightly acidic; it will grow well.

Serissa japonica likes warm and humid climatic conditions and semi-shade, semi-sun, loose and fertile, well-drained soil, with neutral and slightly acidic soil being especially suitable. Its cold resistance is not strong, and overwintering in a greenhouse in winter requires temperatures above 0°C. Its sprouting ability and tillering ability are relatively strong, so it is tolerant of pruning and also easy to shape. In southern gardens, it is often planted outdoors under tree canopies and among shrubs; in the north, it is mostly grown in pots for ornamental purposes and overwinters indoors. It is also a good bonsai material. Cutting seedlings bloom 2~3 years after planting out.

Cultivation methods of Serissa japonica

I. Cultivation techniques

Field cultivation and management of Serissa japonica are simple and extensive. In the south, it can be planted in patches in gardens to form shrub thickets; viewed from afar in summer, it is as white as snow, giving a feeling of coolness and elegance. It is usually mostly used for shaped potted ornament or for making tree-stump bonsai. First, shape the plant into a single-trunk form, then prune and wire the side branches according to the styling concept to make various bonsai, all of which can achieve ideal results. In summer, it should be placed outdoors for maintenance. If placed indoors, it must be bright and ventilation must be increased, otherwise the branches will grow leggy, the leaf color will turn yellow, and the lower leaves will often drop in large numbers. Throughout the year, maintenance should keep the potting soil moderately dry and wet. During severe summer heat and dry weather, the potting soil should often be kept moist, and water should be sprayed on the leaves to keep the branches and leaves fresh. During the growing season, liquid fertilizer can be applied 3 to 4 times. If you do not continue to enjoy it in winter, you can let it drop its leaves, then move it into a cellar or bury it entirely in soil to overwinter. If brought into a low-temperature greenhouse to overwinter, it can remain evergreen; the room temperature must not be lower than 6°C, and good ventilation and sufficient light should be maintained. Before taking potted plants out in early spring, short pruning and pinching should be carried out to keep the plant shape symmetrical and full; for bonsai, pruning and shaping for artistic processing are required.

Serissa japonica likes semi-shade, fears strong sun, has strong sprouting ability, is quite tolerant of pruning, is easy to plant, and requires extensive management. Artificial cultivation is done in fertile sandy loam. Move it into a greenhouse in mid-October, keep the room temperature at 10-15°C, water thoroughly once a week, and move it out of the greenhouse in late April to be maintained under a shade frame. It does not need heavy fertilizer; applying a thin liquid fertilizer once a month and keeping the potting soil moist will allow it to grow well. If Serissa japonica is kept above 5°C in winter, its branches and leaves will remain lush and evergreen, but the soil must not be too dry and should be kept slightly moist. Because Serissa japonica has especially strong sprouting ability, many new branches will sprout from the main trunk and roots, and excess new shoots should be removed in time to avoid consuming nutrients and disrupting the normal development of the tree shape. Branches that sprout after flowering and protrude beyond the crown should also be pruned, otherwise the ornamental effect will be affected.

II. Key cultivation points

1. Watering

Move indoors in mid-October and water thoroughly once a week. Move outdoors to a shaded place in late April and keep the potting soil moist.

2. Fertilizing

After potting, apply thin liquid fertilizer once every 1~2 weeks to promote robust branches and leaves and abundant flowering.

3. Repotting

Serissa japonica likes a warm climate, likes a shady and humid environment, and is not tolerant of severe cold. It is not strict about soil, but likes fertile sandy loam. For potted Serissa japonica, after potting it should first be placed in semi-shade, and after it adapts, moved to open ground for maintenance. Repotting is generally done once every 2~3 years, in March. Repotting should be done on a sunny day, when the potting soil is slightly dry. After repotting, place it temporarily in a cool, ventilated place, and resume normal management after one week.

4. Pruning

Serissa japonica has strong sprouting ability, tillering ability, and adaptability, and is tolerant of pruning and shaping.

Serissa japonica should be pruned twice each year. The first time is in mid-April to cut off spring shoots, and the second time is after flowering, cutting off the tips of flowering branches. Normally, buds should be removed frequently.

III. Material collection and cultivation measures

1. Artificial propagation

Usually propagated by cuttings or tiller division. Cuttings can use hardwood or softwood. Hardwood cuttings are taken from February to March, using dormant branches as cuttings; softwood cuttings are taken from June to July during the plum rain season, using semi-mature branches as cuttings. The seedbed soil should be deep, fertile, and moist. The cuttings should be 6~8 cm long and inserted 1B2 deep. After inserting, a shade frame is needed, and attention should be paid to watering to keep the soil layer moist; they root very easily and can be transplanted in spring of the following year. Tillering propagation is carried out in March in spring. Dig up the plants that have tillered from the roots together with the roots, divide them with a sharp knife, and plant them separately with roots; they also root easily.

2. Collection from mountains and fields

Serissa japonica grows widely in the wild in mountainous areas. Old stumps with thick roots and stems can be selected, dug up, and cultivated in shady, moist, fertile soil. After the root system resumes growth and the branches and leaves are luxuriant, transplant and pot them.

3. Potting process

Pot selection: Serissa japonica mostly uses relatively shallow rectangular or oval pots. The material can be purple clay pottery or glazed pottery, and the color should preferably be darker.

Soil: Serissa japonica is suitable for slightly acidic loam rich in humus, loose, and well-drained. For pot cultivation, leaf mold or pond mud that has been sun-dried and frozen loose can be used. Place a layer of river sand and leaves at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage.

Planting: Transplanting and potting can be done in early spring or late autumn. When planting, part of the long roots can be cut off. If it is a wild old root stump, the roots can be appropriately raised to display an aged posture.

4. Shaping techniques

Processing: Serissa japonica is generally shaped and processed by combining pruning and wiring. The main branches only need appropriate wiring, and the rest are processed by pruning. It is best to use palm fiber for wiring, and be careful not to damage the branches and bark when bending and shaping. Old root stumps can also be treated by raising the roots to add to the beauty of the tree posture.

Tree forms: Common forms of Serissa japonica bonsai include slanting trunk style, curved trunk style, cascade style, forest style, and raised-root style, etc. Serissa japonica is also suitable for use in landscape bonsai and water-and-land bonsai. Its branches and leaves spread horizontally and should be processed into a steamed bun shape, but it need not be too regular; pay attention to variations in density. Side branches can appropriately droop, which is quite picturesque. Serissa japonica can also be made into root-on-rock bonsai, rooted in stone crevices, with suspended roots and exposed claws, tangled branches and gnarled nodes, ancient and peculiar, full of natural wild charm.

IV. Maintenance key points

During high temperature and dry summer, in addition to daily watering, clean water should be used to sprinkle the leaf surfaces and nearby ground in the morning and evening to lower the temperature and increase air humidity. The plant should be placed under a shade frame, and never kept in strong sunlight for a long time. After autumn, as the temperature drops, the amount of watering should be gradually controlled, watering once every 2 to 3 days. In winter, move it into a cold room or indoors not lower than 0°C to overwinter, watering once every 20 to 30 days; if the room temperature is above 15°C, it remains evergreen and does not drop leaves, so water once every 7 to 10 days, maintain moist air, and give it sunlight. During severe cold, it must not be allowed to freeze, otherwise it is prone to death. Before taking it out in March each year, repot it with leaf mold, and use hoof and horn pieces at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer.

Transplanting can be done in all four seasons, but March to April in spring is best. It can also be potted. The soil for potting must be rich in humus, loose and breathable, and well-drained. It can be prepared with 4 parts decomposed cow dung, 1 part decomposed cake fertilizer, 4 parts garden soil, and 1 part coal ash. After potting, it should first be placed in semi-shade, the potting soil should be kept moist, and tap water must be exposed to sunlight before use. It has a certain drought tolerance, but is not tolerant of waterlogging. Watering should follow the principle of alternating dry and wet, and not watering when not dry. In the rainy season, prevent water accumulation in the pot. If the weather is rainy, the pot should be placed on its side. During high temperature and dry summer, spray water on the leaves in the morning and evening to lower the temperature and increase air humidity, so as to facilitate growth and flowering. Every half month, water with 1% edible vinegar water to avoid soil alkalization and plant yellowing. During the growing season, apply thin liquid fertilizer once every 10-15 days, and fertilizer can also be applied with water, that is, mix thin liquid fertilizer into the water each time you water. In addition to soil fertilization, foliar topdressing should also be carried out frequently, spraying leaves with 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to adjust pH and increase plant nutrition. In summer, the plant should avoid exposure to strong sun. A shade frame allowing half light can be built with small-hole nylon netting or plastic window screen to create a suitable microclimate for plant growth, which is especially important for golden-edged Serissa japonica.

Serissa japonica can be wired and processed into bonsai stumps with varied postures and great distinctive features. Select Serissa japonica thickets with thick stems and a certain form, dig them out in March or April, divide them into different combinations of single trunk, double trunk, or multiple trunks, cut off excess branches and trunks, and tie the roots into a dragon-claw shape with bamboo strips or other easily rotting ropes, then they can be potted. In daily management, pay attention to the appropriate supply of water. When the young branches grow to 8~10 cm long, apply decomposed oil cake fertilizer to promote seedling growth. At the same time, keep only a small number of buds sprouting from the stem or roots and remove the rest; excess buds on the stems and branches should also be removed at any time. The tree blank after potting can be processed and shaped after about 3 months, and palm fiber can be used for wiring. Pay attention to high-low correspondence and front-back staggered arrangement, and carefully process and shape one tray and one branch at a time. After wiring, in addition to normal watering, fertilizing, and pest and disease control, buds should also be removed in time, pruned, and rewired, and the wire can be removed the following year.

Propagation methods of Serissa japonica

Serissa japonica is mainly propagated by cuttings, and can also be propagated by layering, division, etc.

I. Cutting propagation

Cuttings from dormant branches are taken from February to March, and semi-mature branch cuttings are taken from June to July. Cut 6~8 cm long cuttings and insert them into slightly acidic fine sandy loam, build a shade frame, and pay attention to watering after insertion to keep the seedbed moist; the cuttings root very easily. Several cuttings can also be inserted together, and they can be potted and transplanted in October to November, separating the combined cuttings into individual plants for transplanting. Softwood cuttings can also be taken in summer and early autumn. Generally, hardwood is used in early spring, but during the plum rain season, either hardwood or old branches can be used, and all require a shade frame. After inserting the cuttings, pay attention to watering and keep the seedbed moist; they root very easily. When making small or miniature bonsai, in order to promote rapid shaping, often during the plum rain season in June-July, take perennial branches with beautiful posture and a large-tree form, cut the lower end into a horseshoe shape, insert them into vermiculite or sand, cover with film to keep warm, pay attention to spraying water, and they can root in about 40 days. At this time, transplant them, and with slight binding and pruning they can be shaped. Because this plant is easy to find in mountainous and wild areas, some flower growers often dig it directly from the woods and bring it back for potting.

II. Scatter-cutting method

Use an open green space, loosen the soil, break up the clods, and level it. Evenly scatter one- to two-node branches (about 3 cm) trimmed from the plant onto the previously prepared ground, press the surface soil firmly with feet or an object, and water thoroughly. After that, spray water once every other day. After ten days, rooting begins and buds sprout. After twenty-five days, apply the first dilute liquid fertilizer. At fifty days, apply a 1:1000 dilution of urea to promote seedling growth. After two months, it can be transplanted and planted out. After four months, it can be potted for cultivation, and initial cuttings can also be taken at the same time. After one year, a relatively ideal tree-stump bonsai with exposed roots can be formed. If used as a hedge, it takes only half a year to take shape.

III. Division propagation

Usually carried out in March in spring. Transplanting can be done in all four seasons, with February to March in spring being best.

Cultivation methods of Serissa japonica: how to grow Serissa japonica

It blooms in early summer in June, and the whole tree is like snow, hence the name Serissa japonica. The cultivation methods of Serissa japonica described in this article will be based on common problems encountered by other flower growers, as well as matters needing attention during the cultivation of Serissa japonica, such as soil, habits, and environment, hoping to bring practical information to flower growers.

Serissa japonica is an evergreen or semi-evergreen clustered small shrub. In winter it may drop leaves, but depending on the environmental climate, the degree of leaf drop varies. Common cultivated varieties include golden-edged Serissa japonica with yellow leaf margins, variegated-leaf Serissa japonica with white markings on the leaves, and double-flowered Serissa japonica with double white flowers. The flowering period of Serissa japonica is generally from June to July each year, but some flower growers have Serissa japonica whose flowering period can last until October. Generally speaking, with good management, it can last about 4 months. In addition, Serissa japonica can also be made into bonsai because it is relatively tolerant of pruning and relatively easy to shape.

I. Serissa japonica cultivation - soil

Serissa japonica is not strict about soil and is suitable for growing in loose, well-drained soil (fertile soil is even better). However, flower growers should note that slightly acidic soil is more favorable for the growth of Serissa japonica, which is somewhat similar to gardenia.

II. Serissa japonica cultivation - environment

The environment is crucial for growing flowers, and Serissa japonica is no exception. Serissa japonica grows wild in the Yangtze River basin and other regions of China (there are countless examples of open-ground planting), distributed in forests or by streams, mostly on shady slopes. It likes a warm and humid environment, is relatively cold-tolerant, likes sun and is also shade-tolerant, but if potted, during the growing season Serissa japonica should be placed in semi-shade, humid places such as under tree shade, otherwise too strong light will affect growth and be unfavorable for ornament.

III. Serissa japonica cultivation - fertilizing

Serissa japonica relatively likes fertilizer, and more fertilizer should be given in daily maintenance, but remember that although Serissa japonica likes fertilizer, if too much fertilizer is applied, it will make branches grow too vigorously and easily cause leggy new branches. Therefore, generally only apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once before winter and once after flowering.

III. Serissa japonica cultivation - watering

Serissa japonica has a certain drought tolerance and also relatively likes water, but is not tolerant of waterlogging. Watering should follow the principle of alternating dry and wet, and not watering when not dry. In the rainy season, prevent water accumulation in the pot. If the weather is rainy, the pot should be placed on its side. During high temperature and dry summer, spray water on the leaves in the morning and evening to lower the temperature and increase air humidity, so as to facilitate growth and flowering. (Many flower growers truly do not understand watering: one moment it is said to be dry, the next moment wet. Flower growers should learn to understand that pot cultivation is different from field cultivation. Pot cultivation is limited by many factors, such as pot depth and soil permeability. Therefore, when watering, flower growers must not refer to time, but touch the soil. The best state should be moist but not wet, and occasionally a little dry, which is more favorable for plant growth.)

IV. Serissa japonica cultivation - propagation

Flower growers often need to propagate two pots of Serissa japonica for themselves as backups, or to share with other flower growers. Serissa japonica is mainly propagated by cuttings, and can also be propagated by layering, division, cuttings, etc. Generally, hardwood is used in early spring, but during the plum rain season, soft branches or old branches can both be used. Cut the bottom of the branch diagonally at 45°C with a sharp knife, insert it into vermiculite or sand, cover with film to keep warm, pay attention to spraying water, and it can root in about 40 days; at this time, transplant it.

V. Serissa japonica cultivation - pruning

As mentioned earlier, Serissa japonica is very tolerant of pruning and easy to shape, so it can also be made into bonsai. Flower growers do not need to worry about cutting it badly. Each year after half of the leaves fall in winter and before the beginning of spring when buds sprout, carry out one shaping and pruning, cutting short long branches and leggy branches, thinning overly dense fine weak branches, and cutting off diseased and pest-infested branches as well as other messy branches that affect ornament; during the growing season, timely carry out pinching, bud removal, and removal of side branches, etc., to keep its shape graceful.