How to Propagate the Happiness Tree? A Full Guide to Planting and Care Essentials

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

The Happiness Tree (Radermachera sinica) is an ornamental plant often seen in many home and office environments, but many people do not know how to grow it. The Happiness Tree likes a hot, humid environment with plenty of sunlight. It tolerates high temperatures, fears cold, prefers moisture and dislikes dryness. It grows in valleys or open forests on flat ground.

Propagation Techniques for the Happiness Tree

1. Sowing: Around the end of December, when the capsules are close to splitting and the seeds are fully mature, harvest the long strip-shaped capsules, dry them, shake out the winged seeds, rub them and winnow away the membranous wing fragments, then store them dry until sowing the following spring. Alternatively, soak them for 2 to 3 hours, mix them into damp sand, spread them thinly in a large plastic basin inside a shed, keep the seeds and sand moist, check frequently to prevent mold, and sow them in the ground once the seeds germinate. For dry-stored seeds, between March and April, first soak them for 3 to 4 hours, take them out and spread them briefly to dry, then mix them with sandy soil and broadcast them on a prepared seedbed, cover lightly with a thin layer of soil, cover with plastic film to retain moisture, remove the film once the seeds sprout, and set up a light-shade frame for shading. For sale.

2. Cuttings: Between March and April, when the ambient temperature reaches about 15°C, cut 1- to 2-year-old woody branches about 15 cm to 20 cm long, remove all the leaves, and make the bottom cut preferably 0.5 cm below a node. Insert them into a sandy loam seedbed, with the cutting buried to about 1/3 to 1/2 of its length. During the period when the bottom cut is healing and rooting, spray water to keep the seedbed moist. Only after a sound root system has formed may they be transplanted into pots with a soil ball; it is best to plant 2 to 3 together, so they can take shape and be sold sooner.

3. Layering. Between March and April, on a 2-year-old vigorous branch or stem, perform ring-barking below a node, with the bark removed to a width generally 2 to 3 times the diameter of the layered stem. Below the ring-barked cut, tie on a piece of plastic film 15 cm × 20 cm. [water opening], and tie it against a thick main trunk to prevent it from drooping and breaking in the wind. By late autumn, once a fairly sound root system has grown from the ring-barked cut, sever it from the mother plant and pot it separately.

How to Grow the Happiness Tree

1. Temperature: Radermachera sinica likes a warm, hot environment, with an optimum growing temperature of 20°C to 30°C. During the intense heat of midsummer, when the ambient temperature reaches above 30°C, provide appropriate shading with a frame, increase humidity and misting of the leaf surfaces, or move it to a shaded, ventilated, cool spot for the summer. When late autumn arrives and the ambient temperature drops to about 10°C, move it into a shed or indoor space promptly. During overwintering, it is best to maintain a shed or indoor temperature of no less than 8°C, and never below 5°C, to avoid cold damage to the leaves or leaf drop. For home pot culture, move it indoors where there is air conditioning or an electric heater, ensuring the room temperature is no lower than 8°C so it can overwinter safely. Note: In winter, keep the shed or indoor temperature for growing Radermachera sinica no lower than 8°C, otherwise cold damage may occur, and even the whole plant may die.

2. Light: Radermachera sinica is a light-loving plant that also tolerates shade somewhat; full sun and partial shade are both acceptable. Its seedlings are relatively shade-tolerant, and in summer a frame should be set up for shading. For potted plants, during indoor display, place them by a window or indoors where there is ample light. If kept for a long time in a dim indoor spot, they easily drop leaves. For home pot culture, during overwintering, place them by a window or in a higher spot in front of a balcony so they receive as much light as possible.

3. Water: Growing Radermachera sinica requires a relatively moist soil and display environment. During the seedling stage, keep the seedbed moist; in the hot, dry season after summer begins, pay even more attention to water supply. For potted Radermachera sinica, to keep it from growing too tall, when new shoots emerge in spring, watering can be appropriately controlled, keeping the potting soil only relatively moist. For potted plants displayed indoors, besides keeping the potting soil moist, in hot seasons the plant should be misted 2 to 3 times a day. For plants kept outdoors for care in summer and autumn, be sure to increase misting of the plant and the surrounding micro-environment to create a cool, moist, suitable environment. For plants kept indoors in winter, since indoor temperatures are generally below 10°C, the plant enters dormancy, so do not water too much, to avoid waterlogging and root rot; every 2 to 3 days around noon on fine days, spray the plant once with slightly warm clean water to maintain its fresh appearance and also increase environmental humidity. In addition, Radermachera sinica can also be grown hydroponically.

4. Soil: For potted Radermachera sinica, use a culture soil that is loose, fertile, well drained and aerated, and rich in organic matter. It is usually mixed from 5 parts garden soil, 3 parts leaf mold, 1 part decomposed organic fertilizer and 1 part river sand. During the growing season, loosen the soil once a month to ensure the root area is always well aerated. In the plum rain season, for potted plants kept in the open, after each heavy rainfall promptly check the potting soil, remove any standing water in the pot as soon as possible, and after the potting soil dries out, repot and change the soil. Generally, for small and medium potted plants kept as home pot culture, repot once a year in early April when they are brought out, to meet their soil fertility needs for the whole year's growth.

5. Fertilizer: For potted Radermachera sinica, besides adding an appropriate amount of decomposed cake fertilizer and 3% multi-element compound fertilizer to the culture soil, topdressing should also be applied continuously. During the growing season, apply a quick-acting liquid fertilizer once a month, usually decomposed cake fertilizer water. For a small number of home potted plants, or for large potted plants displayed in public places for a long time, a small amount of multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer granules can be buried periodically, or a mixture of 0.2% urea plus 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be applied as a liquid drench. For pot culture in northern regions, after the Mid-Autumn Festival, apply 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution 2 to 3 times in succession to increase the plant's cold resistance and help it overwinter safely. When the summer temperature is above 32°C, and after the temperature falls below 12°C in late autumn and early winter, topdressing should be stopped.

Pest and Disease Control for the Happiness Tree

1. Leaf spot disease: In environments with high temperature, high humidity and poor ventilation, its leaves are prone to leaf spot disease. Control methods: Whether indoors or outdoors, ventilation and light transmission should be strengthened, prolonged water retention on leaf surfaces should be avoided, and the chance of leaf spot disease should be reduced. If a small number of diseased leaves are found, remove and burn them promptly, and regularly spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 600 times dilution, once every half month, for 3 to 4 times in succession. For home pot culture, for disease spots appearing on a small number of leaves of an individual plant, miconazole nitrate cream can be applied.

2. Scale insects: Under conditions of high temperature, high humidity and poor ventilation, especially during long periods in a shed or indoor space in autumn and winter, scale insects readily appear on the stems and leaves. Control methods: Strengthen ventilation and light transmission, and pay attention to controlling environmental humidity. If a small number of live insects are found, wipe them off promptly with a damp cloth, or remove them with clear adhesive tape. For commercial cultivation, during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray with 25% buprofezin wettable powder at 1500 times dilution.

3. Mites: The main damage symptoms are wrinkled, curled new leaves and an uneven leaf surface. They generally occur from June to September; high temperature and dryness favor massive outbreaks of this pest, while under relatively humid conditions the pest occurs less. Mainly use acaricides such as mite-killing agents, fenbutatin oxide and hexythiazox.

4. Aphids: One of the most common aphids is the green peach aphid. Symptoms include wrinkled and deformed leaves, usually with glistening honeydew spots. Aphids can be seen with the naked eye. Control methods: Spray with zinc phosphide, omethoate, deltamethrin and the like.

Well, the above are the growing methods for the Happiness Tree. In everyday care, if you pay attention to soil, humidity and light, the Happiness Tree is very easy to keep alive and very easy to grow. Care for it with attention, and it will become even more beautiful.

What to Do If the Happiness Tree's Leaves Turn Yellow?

When gardening friends buy a Happiness Tree at the flower market, its leaves are all lush green and it feels great, but after a few days they find yellow leaves at the bottom, with a trend of getting worse and worse; or after taking it home they repot it, and at first it does quite well, but after a while, starting from the bottom, the leaves turn yellow and drop, and the small branches fall off at a touch. What exactly causes the leaves to turn yellow? It broadly includes but is not limited to the following reasons:

1. Possibly the Happiness Tree has no roots, and when the seller sold it, it was freshly sawed off and put into the pot (flowers bought from itinerant vendors are prone to this situation);

2. Most flowers and plants bought back from the flower market will do this, because of a sudden change in environment, since the temperature, humidity and light at home differ greatly from the care environment in the greenhouse, or because repotting damaged the roots and it needs to recover, thus causing the leaves to turn yellow;

3. A large amount of leaf drop in the Happiness Tree may be related to watering, because if the plant's soil is too dry, the root system will be damaged to some extent; at this point, pouring in a large amount of water suffocates the already damaged roots, obstructs respiration, further damages the root system, affects absorption, and causes massive leaf drop.

4. Caused by poor ventilation and air permeability, with the leaf tips turning withered and yellow; caused by dry indoor air. Spraying the leaves with clean water 2 to 3 times a day can effectively prevent the leaf tips of newly emerged leaves from turning withered and yellow.

5. Possibly caused by the plant being in too dark an environment with insufficient light. It can be placed in a relatively bright spot, and when the temperature is below 20°C it also needs a full-sun environment;

6. Whether the amount of fertilizer is too large, whether the organic fertilizer used has been fully decomposed, and so on.

How to Grow Golden Pothos (Devil's Ivy)

Golden Pothos, also known as pothos, stone citrus and leaf-drawing vine, is a perennial vine foliage plant of the genus Epipremnum in the Araceae family. Golden Pothos is a trailing plant; its stem nodes bear aerial roots that can climb up other objects, and its stems can reach over ten meters or longer. The leaves are nearly heart-shaped, entire, dark green and glossy; the leaf surface has irregular yellow spots or patches; the leaves are smaller at the seedling stage and grow larger as the plant grows; due to differences in cultivation conditions (especially fertilizer and water conditions), leaf size varies, and there is no distinction between large-leaf and small-leaf varieties. Golden Pothos was introduced for cultivation in China relatively early, and is also grown more in the south. Varieties commonly cultivated at present also include: Golden Pothos: the leaves have yellow spots and stripes, and it is rather beautiful.

Silver Pothos: the spots and markings on the leaves are pinkish white, with more pinkish-white spots and markings on young leaves. Because the leaves contain less chlorophyll, growth is weaker.

Yellow Pothos: the leaves are pale yellow-green and have no spots or markings on them; it was introduced relatively late.

Tricolor Pothos: the leaves are bright green with yellow and milky white patches, very beautiful.

Jade Vine: the leaves are green with no spots or stripes of other colors. Golden Pothos originates from the Indonesian archipelago. In tropical regions it often climbs and grows on rocks and tree trunks in rainforests and can become a huge vine. It likes a hot, humid and semi-shaded environment and is not cold-tolerant; the optimum growing temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C. It can also tolerate a relatively dry environment and still grows well when the air humidity is 40%-50%; it has low soil requirements, but well-drained fertile soil is preferable.

Golden Pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings. It roots easily throughout the growing period. When taking cuttings, cut 15-30 cm long branches, remove the leaves from the bottom 1-2 nodes, insert them into a cutting bed made of half river sand and half leaf mold, keep moist, and they will root quickly, then pot them up. In hot seasons, you can cut 3-4 shoot strips from the ends of the vines and plant them directly into pots, but be especially careful to ensure the potting soil is loose and aerated, and at the same time mist the leaves frequently to retain moisture. In addition, water propagation can be used, that is, cut off stem nodes that have aerial roots and insert them into water; once the aerial roots adapt to the water environment, they will begin to sprout and grow, but the water quality must be kept clean. For potted Golden Pothos, equal parts garden soil and leaf mold can be mixed as the substrate. When planting, a column wrapped in palm fiber can be erected in the center of the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it so the vines climb and grow attached to the column; during vine growth, mist frequently to retain moisture, to encourage adventitious roots to form at the stem nodes and attach to the column. You can also plant 3-5 small seedlings directly in the pot so the vines hang down, for hanging or trailing cultivation. At the seedling stage, do not water too much, to avoid rot at the root crown; during the vigorous growth period, water or mist thoroughly. Golden Pothos needs a relatively large amount of fertilizer during growth; if nutrition is insufficient, the leaves are not easy to enlarge. Generally apply a liquid fertilizer once about every two weeks to ensure vigorous growth. When fertilizing, do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer alone, otherwise the spots and patches on the leaf surface easily turn green, reducing ornamental value. Except in summer when sunlight is too strong and shading is needed, at other times let it receive as much sunlight as possible, so its internodes are solid and its leaves dark green. If light is too weak, the markings on the leaf surface also tend to decrease or disappear, affecting the ornamental effect. To maintain a good plant shape, shorten overlong vines and disordered branches so their lengths are varied and their density appropriate; for climbing cultivation, pay attention to tying and adjusting the vines so the leaves are even in size and the plant shape is more perfect. Golden Pothos has crystalline, deep green leaves, with golden markings or patches inlaid on the smooth waxy leaf surface, colorful and varied. It can be grown on a totem pole, letting it climb and grow, to decorate a corner of a wall or a desk or tea table; it can also be used as a hanging decoration for walls, windowsills, balconies and other places. It is strongly shade-tolerant and an excellent material for beautifying the home; placed indoors, it can make the interior full of life.

Pothos Care Pothos develops best when cultivated in loose, organic-rich, slightly acidic to neutral sandy loam. It can be made by composting 70% leaf mold, 20% red loam, and 10% rapeseed cake and bone meal. Repot once every three years. Pothos is a shade-loving plant, dislikes direct sunlight, likes diffused light, and is relatively shade-tolerant. For indoor cultivation it can be placed by a window, but direct sunlight must be avoided. Too strong sunlight will scorch pothos leaves, while too much shade will make the beautiful markings on the leaf surface disappear; generally, receiving four hours of diffused light gives pothos the best growth and development. Pothos likes relatively high air humidity and a moist environment. In midsummer, the peak growth period for pothos, mist the aerial roots and leaf surfaces several times a day, which can both wash dust off the leaves, helping pothos breathe, and keep the leaf color emerald green and fresh, while also lowering leaf surface temperature, increasing the air humidity of the micro-environment, and helping the leaves grow better. Keep the potting soil at a moist level; when the potting soil turns white, water thoroughly. In winter, when room temperature is lower, pothos is in a dormant state, so water less and just keep the potting soil from drying out. The most suitable growing temperature for pothos is 20°C-28°C during the day and 15°C-18°C at night. In winter, as long as the indoor temperature is not lower than 10°C, pothos can overwinter safely; if the temperature is below 5, it easily causes leaf drop and affects growth. For fertilizing pothos, nitrogen fertilizer is the main component and potassium fertilizer is supplementary. Before the growing season arrives in spring, apply a 0.3% solution of ammonium sulfate or urea once about every 10 days, and use a 0.5‰-1‰ urea solution for foliar feeding once, which can both meet pothos's growth needs and keep the leaves green and glossy. Fertilizing should be stopped in winter. Pothos is usually propagated by cuttings and stem burying. Select healthy pothos vines, cut them into sections of two nodes, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, then insert them into plain sand or coal cinders to a depth of 1/3 of the cutting, pour enough water, place in a shaded spot, mist the leaves daily or cover with plastic film to retain moisture; as long as the environment is kept no lower than 20, the survival rate is above 90%.

Pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings. In late spring and early summer, cut 15 cm to 30 cm branches, remove the leaves from the bottom 1 to 2 nodes, and pot them directly in culture soil, 3 to 5 per pot, water thoroughly, place in a cool, ventilated spot, keep the potting soil moist, and in about a month they will root and sprout, and within the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value. In spring and summer, cuttings from branches root easily; for a totem pole, cuttings must be taken from the top shoots with large leaves, so they take shape relatively quickly. Pothos can also be grown in water, but the plant is smaller than when grown in soil. Light

The original growing conditions of pothos are in forests shaded by towering trees, so its sun-loving tendency is not strong. But in the north in autumn and winter, to supplement the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. The method is to place pothos in the spot with the best indoor light, or move it to a sealed balcony to bask in the sun at noon. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because in an extremely short time the leaves may be frostbitten.

Temperature

In the north, with a room temperature above 10°C, pothos can overwinter safely, and with a room temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Ordinary households have little trouble reaching this temperature; note that large temperature differences should be avoided, and also take care that the leaves do not come close to heating equipment.

Humidity

This refers to the water content of the air in the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. To increase humidity, the following methods can be used. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours a day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed out by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems and aerial roots, several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flower pot saucer, increasing the plant's local humidity through its evaporation; gently wipe the leaf surface with a cold damp towel or toilet paper, or gently apply it to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a mini-greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's water through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.

Water

In autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, when the temperature is lower, the plant's soil evaporates more slowly, so watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled at 1/4-1/2 of the original. Even after heating, watering should not be too frequent; when watering, pour less into the pot and let water seep through the palm fiber. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow on the palm column, to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by too-rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better, as water that is too cold easily damages the roots.

Fertilizer

In the autumn and winter seasons in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilizing should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly apply or spray liquid inorganic fertilizer, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilizing should mainly be foliar spraying, applied mainly through the stomata on the leaf surface, with fertilizer absorbed through the stomata on the leaf surface, so the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Foliar fertilizer should be a special-purpose fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizers are not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. The Beida Flower Guardian series and the Japanese-made Hana Ichiban, etc., can all be used as foliar fertilizer.

Basic Watering Skills for Soil-Grown Plants

Watering indoor plants follows the principle of “dry-wet cycle”. The so-called “dry” means that after watering once, you should wait until the soil surface turns white, that is, the surface soil is dry (that is, about the top 3 cm of soil is dry), before watering a second time; in other words, water when the potting soil is basically dry through, and do not wait until the potting soil is completely dry before watering. The so-called “wet” means that each time you water, you should water thoroughly, that is, water until water seeps out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, and do not give only a “half watering”. Because most of a plant's roots are concentrated in the middle and lower part of the pot, giving a “half watering” is actually equivalent to not watering at all. For drought-tolerant plants, watering should follow the principle of “better dry than wet.”

Hydroponic Golden Pothos:

Golden Pothos Growing Methods: Golden Pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings. It roots easily throughout the growing period. When taking cuttings, cut 15-30 cm long branches, remove the leaves from the bottom 1-2 nodes, insert them into a cutting bed made of half river sand and half leaf mold, keep moist, and they will root quickly, then pot them up. In hot seasons, you can cut 3-4 shoot strips from the ends of the vines and plant them directly into pots, but be especially careful to ensure the potting soil is loose and aerated, and at the same time mist the leaves frequently to retain moisture. In addition, water propagation can be used, that is, cut off stem nodes that have aerial roots and insert them into water; once the aerial roots adapt to the water environment, they will begin to sprout and grow, but the water quality must be kept clean. For potted Golden Pothos, equal parts garden soil and leaf mold can be mixed as the substrate. When planting, a column wrapped in palm fiber can be erected in the center of the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it so the vines climb and grow attached to the column; during vine growth, mist frequently to retain moisture, to encourage adventitious roots to form at the stem nodes and attach to the column. You can also plant 3-5 small seedlings directly in the pot so the vines hang down, for hanging or trailing cultivation. At the seedling stage, do not water too much, to avoid rot at the root crown; during the vigorous growth period, water or mist thoroughly. Golden Pothos needs a relatively large amount of fertilizer during growth; if nutrition is insufficient, the leaves are not easy to enlarge. Generally apply a liquid fertilizer once about every two weeks to ensure vigorous growth. When fertilizing, do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer alone, otherwise the spots and patches on the leaf surface easily turn green, reducing ornamental value. Except in summer when sunlight is too strong and shading is needed, at other times let it receive as much sunlight as possible, so its internodes are solid and its leaves dark green. If light is too weak, the markings on the leaf surface also tend to decrease or disappear, affecting the ornamental effect. To maintain a good plant shape, shorten overlong vines and disordered branches so their lengths are varied and their density appropriate; for climbing cultivation, pay attention to tying and adjusting the vines so the leaves are even in size and the plant shape is more perfect. Golden Pothos has crystalline, deep green leaves, with golden markings or patches inlaid on the smooth waxy leaf surface, colorful and varied. It can be grown on a totem pole, letting it climb and grow, to decorate a corner of a wall or a desk or tea table; it can also be used as a hanging decoration for walls, windowsills, balconies and other places. It is strongly shade-tolerant and an excellent material for beautifying the home; placed indoors, it can make the interior full of life.

Care of Hydroponic Golden Pothos:

Hydroponic Golden Pothos plants are 30-40 cm tall. Golden Pothos has crystalline, deep green leaves, with golden markings or patches inlaid on the smooth waxy leaf surface, appearing brilliant and colorful. It can remove harmful gases such as formaldehyde, benzene, carbon monoxide and nicotine.

Hydroponic Golden Pothos is called a “lazy person's flower” for being trouble-free and convenient, so its daily care is very easy; just pay attention to the following points:

1. Suitable environmental temperature:

The growing temperature for hydroponic plants is 5°C-30°C, and within this range they can all grow normally.

2. Suitable light:

For hydroponic plants, light should mainly be diffused light; they do not necessarily have to be exposed to the sun. In summer, direct sunlight should be avoided as much as possible.

3. Changing water and cleaning the flower roots:

For hydroponic plants, change the water about once every 7 days in summer and about once every 10-15 days in winter, adding a few drops of special nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers (prepare the nutrient solution concentration according to the instructions).

The vessels for cultivating hydroponic plants easily grow moss, which affects the ornamental value of the roots and also consumes oxygen in the water. When changing the water, first wash away the mucus on the flower roots with clean water, and cut off old roots and rotten roots. Also scrub the moss off the vessel and the root system. Each time you change the water, the water level should preferably submerge 1/2-2/3 of the root system, leaving the remaining root sections exposed to the air.

4. Moisture retention and foliar fertilizer spraying:

To prevent the leaves from drying out, during daily care, spray the leaf surfaces with clean water to retain moisture. It is best to spray foliar fertilizer once a week, which can both provide nutrition to the leaves and increase leaf gloss, and in winter also achieve the purpose of resisting low temperatures.

Care Techniques for Hydroponic Pothos (Deluxe Type)

A shade-loving plant, it dislikes direct sunlight. As long as the indoor temperature is not lower than 10°C, it can overwinter safely; if the temperature is below 5, it easily causes leaf drop and affects growth.

Water-changing principle for hydroponic plants: after tap water has been left to stand for a day, add one drop of “nutrient solution” before you can change the water for the plants. In summer, plants consume a lot of oxygen, so change the water once every 4-5 days; in spring and autumn, plants consume a relatively large amount of oxygen, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in winter, oxygen consumption is small, so change the water about once every 15 days.

Hydroponic Golden Pothos - Shanghai Indoor Ornamental Plants - Shanghai Landscape Design

A large evergreen vine plant. Growing in tropical regions, it often climbs and grows on rocks and tree trunks in rainforests and can become a huge vine. The green leaves have yellow patches. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots; it can be allowed to climb on a column tied with palm fiber and placed in an entrance hall or hotel, or it can be trained into a hanging form and placed in a study or on a windowsill. It is a flower relatively suitable for indoor placement. Pothos vines grow several meters long, with aerial roots at the nodes; as the plant ages, the stems thicken and the leaves grow larger and larger. The leaves are alternate, green, with a few leaves also slightly mottled with yellow, entire and heart-shaped.

Ornamental value: Pothos is one of the very excellent indoor decorative plants, a climbing vine foliage flower. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves delicate and elegant. Place a nested pot high on top of a piece of furniture and let its vines hang down calmly, or after the hanging vines grow too long, loop and hang them into a ring, just like an emerald relief. This not only makes full use of space and purifies the air, but also adds a lively-lined, bright-colored green decoration to a dull cabinet surface, full of vitality, adding a touch of warmth and charm to the room.

The flower language of the pothos flower: watching over happiness

Physiological characteristics

It likes a warm, humid environment and requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil. For potted pothos, use fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed year-round in a sunny indoor spot; in a dimmer room, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment to recover for a period, otherwise the internodes easily elongate and the leaves become smaller. Pothos likes a hot, humid environment; the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C, the potting soil should be kept moist, and the leaf surfaces should be misted frequently to raise air humidity and favor the growth of aerial roots. During the vigorous growth period, apply liquid fertilizer once a month. For plants displayed indoors for a long time, the leaves at the base of the stems easily fall off, reducing ornamental value; in May and June, when the temperature warms up, pruning and renewal can be carried out along with cuttings to encourage new buds to sprout from the base of the stems.

Propagation methods

Pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings. In late spring and early summer, cut 15 cm to 30 cm branches, remove the leaves from the bottom 1 to 2 nodes, and pot them directly in culture soil, 3 to 5 per pot, water thoroughly, place in a cool, ventilated spot, keep the potting soil moist, and in about a month they will root and sprout, and within the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value. In spring and summer, cuttings from branches root easily; for a totem pole, cuttings must be taken from the top shoots with large leaves, so they take shape relatively quickly. Pothos can also be grown in water, but the plant is smaller than when grown in soil.

Hydroponic pothos can also grow into:

1. How long does it take for freshly cut pothos grown hydroponically to grow roots?

Within about a week

2. How often should the water be changed for freshly cut pothos grown hydroponically?

7-10 days

3. How often should fertilizer be applied?

You need to buy that kind of hydroponic conditioning solution, which promotes rooting in hydroponic flowers and has anti-inflammatory and sterilizing effects. Every time you change the water, add a few drops of it.

Hydroponic conditioning solution is not nutrient solution, do not mix them up. Flower markets all sell it. In the early stage of hydroponic flowers, you must use that thing to grow roots.

Care methods

Light

The original growing conditions of pothos are in forests shaded by towering trees, so its sun-loving tendency is not strong. But in the north in autumn and winter, to supplement the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. The method is to place pothos in the spot with the best indoor light, or move it to a sealed balcony to bask in the sun at noon. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because in an extremely short time the leaves may be frostbitten.

Temperature

In the north, with a room temperature above 10°C, pothos can overwinter safely, and with a room temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Ordinary households have little trouble reaching this temperature; note that large temperature differences should be avoided, and also take care that the leaves do not come close to heating equipment.

Humidity

This refers to the water content of the air in the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. To increase humidity, the following methods can be used. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours a day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed out by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems and aerial roots, several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flower pot saucer, increasing the plant's local humidity through its evaporation; gently wipe the leaf surface with a cold damp towel or toilet paper, or gently apply it to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a mini-greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's water through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.

Water

In autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, when the temperature is lower, the plant's soil evaporates more slowly, so watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled at 1/4-1/2 of the original. Even after heating, watering should not be too frequent; when watering, pour less into the pot and let water seep through the palm fiber. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow on the palm column, to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by too-rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better, as water that is too cold easily damages the roots.

Fertilizer

In the autumn and winter seasons in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilizing should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly apply or spray liquid inorganic fertilizer, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilizing should mainly be foliar spraying, applied mainly through the stomata on the leaf surface, with fertilizer absorbed through the stomata on the leaf surface, so the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Foliar fertilizer should be a special-purpose fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizers are not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. The Beida Flower Guardian series and the Japanese-made Hana Ichiban, etc., can all be used as foliar fertilizer.

Cultivation points

Pothos grows relatively fast and its cultivation and management are simple. During cultivation and management, in summer the plant should be misted more, and foliar fertilizing should be done once every 10 days to keep the leaves green. For potted seedlings, when the seedlings grow 30 cm up the cultivation column, they should be pruned off; when the basal leaves have fallen off by 30%-50%, they should be discarded and replanted. Green-column potted plants are ideal plants for courtyard gateposts and wall greening, and their leaves are also excellent foliage material for flower arrangements.

Shaping and pruning

Plant 4-5 per pot or insert cuttings directly, and set up a palm column in the middle of the pot to make it easy for pothos to twine and grow upward. Shaping and pruning are carried out in spring. When the vines have climbed all over the palm column and the shoot tips exceed the palm column by about 20 cm, cut off 40 cm of the vine tips of 2-3 of the plants. When new buds and new leaves sprout after the shortening, then cut off the vine tips of the remaining plants. For potted plants that have lost leaves on the whole plant or the lower half due to winter cold damage or other reasons, shorten the vines of half the plant by 1/2 and the other half by 2/3 or 3/4, staggering the cutting heights, so that the new leaves growing below the cuts can quickly cover the palm column.

Pothos care methods for the office and home:

1. Pothos is all shipped from Guangzhou to all parts of the country. Pothos bought back in winter has generally been frosted, so placed indoors it will quickly show yellow leaves; after these frosted leaves have all turned yellow and fallen, it will still re-sprout around the Spring Festival.

2. Generally, newly bought pothos has an adaptation period of about 1 month in the new environment, and yellow leaves at the bottom are normal, but remember: do not directly peel off yellow or dead leaves; cut them off from the middle of the petiole, so as to avoid excessive water loss and added wounds from direct peeling, which would cause the upper leaves to turn yellow as well.

3. Pothos is not afraid of shade, but it also cannot be grown well in a very dark environment! You can regularly move its position to a brighter spot; but it cannot be exposed to scorching sun!

4. To grow pothos well, proper ventilation is also needed.

5. For watering, you can wet the column, as it is covered with aerial roots. From time to time, spray a little nitrogen fertilizer on the leaves, and pour a little diluted ferrous sulfate solution into the soil.

6. If the leaves have already turned very yellow! Be sure to pay attention to controlling watering; too much or too little is not good! At this point, place the pothos in a well-ventilated spot with light!

7. Pothos fears freezing; after freezing it will turn black until it dies.

8. When pothos has grown very long and climbs past the top of the column, cut it off, or turn the head upside down and let it climb downward; do not let it grow at random.

There are several reasons why the lowest leaves of pothos turn yellow:

1. Occasional occurrence is normal metabolism during the growing period, but the intervals are relatively long.

2. Too much watering or drought; watering should follow the dry-wet cycle.

3. After autumn turns cool, fertilizing should be stopped.

4. Indoors, pay attention to light and ventilation.

5. In winter, appropriate misting should be done.

Also: when pothos has many yellow leaves, the cause is mostly in the roots; yellow leaves are only the surface symptom, and when roots rot, the leaves turn yellow.

Pothos Habits and Propagation

Pothos, also known as Golden Pothos, Devil's Ivy and Golden Vine, is an evergreen perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Epipremnum in the Araceae family. Pothos has thick, sturdy vines that can reach several meters long, with aerial roots at the stem nodes. Young leaves are ovate-heart-shaped; newly propagated seedlings have smaller, paler leaves, and as the plant ages, mature leaves become long ovate, about 15 cm long and about 10 cm wide. The deep green leaf surface is inlaid with irregular yellow-white spots or streaks. Due to differences in fertilizer and water conditions, its leaf size varies.

Pothos has luxuriant branches and leaves, good shade tolerance, is evergreen year-round and glossy. In winter, when outdoor vegetation withers and fades, indoor pothos remains lush and green, so it is an excellent indoor foliage plant. Because pothos vines grow relatively fast, people often grow it as a column vine, that is, erecting a support column in the center of the flower pot, wrapping some palm fiber around the column, with the column's diameter reaching 10 cm to 12 cm, then planting 3 to 4 seedlings in the pot so their vines climb and grow around the column. Some also plant pothos in a flower pot and place it on a flower stand, letting its vines hang down like a green curtain, with a distinctive charm.

Pothos originates from the Indonesian archipelago and in tropical regions often climbs and grows on rocks and tree trunks. It likes a hot, humid, semi-shaded environment and is not cold-tolerant; its suitable growing temperature is 15°C to 25°C, growth slows below 15°C, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 10°C. It is sensitive to temperature; in summer it dislikes direct sunlight, and under strong light the leaves easily turn withered and yellow and drop, so outdoors in summer attention should be paid to shading. In winter indoors, under bright diffused light it can grow well, with sturdy stem nodes and brilliant leaf color. During the growing period it has relatively high water requirements; besides normally replenishing water to the potting soil, the leaf surfaces should also be misted frequently, and for column vine cultivation more water should also be sprayed on the palm fiber column so the palm fiber fully absorbs water for the aerial roots twining around the stems to absorb. Apply a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer once every 2 weeks, or spray a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution once a week, to make the leaves emerald green and the markings more vivid.

Pothos is generally propagated by cuttings; because there are aerial roots at the stem nodes, cuttings root very easily. The cutting time is from April to August. When taking cuttings, cut a 15 cm to 20 cm section of vine as the cutting, cut off the lower leaves, leaving only 1 to 2 leaves at the top, insert it obliquely into a sand bed, then water thoroughly, keep moist, and thereafter mist the leaf surfaces of the cuttings frequently; in about ten-plus days they can root. Pothos can also be water-propagated from terminal buds. The method is: cut a tender, vigorous vine section 20 cm to 30 cm long, insert it directly into a bottle filled with clean water, change the water once every 2 to 3 days, and in 10-plus days it can root and survive.

Because potted pothos is limited by the potting soil, after being cultivated for too long the plant easily ages, and the leaves become smaller and drop. Therefore, after 2 to 3 years of cultivation, repotting or pruning and renewal must be carried out.

Pothos Growing Methods

Pothos, also known as golden pothos, originated in tropical rainforest regions and is an evergreen climbing plant of the Araceae family. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots. It can be allowed to climb on a cylinder made of palm fiber and placed in an entrance hall or hotel, or it can be trained into a hanging form and placed in a study or on a windowsill. It is a flowering plant relatively suitable for indoor placement. For potted pothos, fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold soil should be chosen, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed year-round in a bright indoor spot. In a dimly lit room, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment for a period of recovery; otherwise, the internodes tend to elongate and the leaves become smaller. Pothos likes a hot and humid environment. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. The potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to increase air humidity and favor the growth of aerial roots. During the vigorous growth period, a liquid fertilizer can be applied once a month. For plants grown indoors for a long time, the leaves at the base of the stem easily fall off, reducing ornamental value. In May and June, when the temperature becomes warmer, pruning and renewal can be carried out together with cuttings to encourage new buds to sprout from the basal stem. Pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings. In late spring and early summer, cut 15 cm to 30 cm long branches, remove the leaves from the basal 1 to 2 nodes, and plant them directly in pots with growing medium, 3 to 5 stems per pot. Water thoroughly, place in a cool, ventilated spot, and keep the potting soil moist. In about one month, they will root and sprout, and in the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value. Respondent: Pothos is easy to propagate and grows easily and vigorously. From the office of the White House in the United States to ordinary poor households, its presence can be seen. It belongs to the easier-to-grow category among foliage plants. As a plant from tropical and subtropical regions, pothos prefers hot and humid conditions, with an optimal growth temperature between 20°C and 30°C, and can adapt to temperatures above 65°C. However, northern autumn and winter do not provide these conditions, so autumn and winter care has become a crucial link in the growth cycle of pothos. Creating a growing environment as comfortable as summer for it in winter can keep pothos lush at all times. When caring for pothos, attention must be paid to the following aspects. 1. Light for pothos. The original growing conditions of pothos are in forests shaded by towering trees, so its positive phototropism is not strong. But in the northern autumn and winter, in order to supplement the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. The method is to place pothos in the brightest indoor location, or move it to a sealed balcony to sunbathe at noon. At the same time, when the temperature is low, windows should be opened as little as possible, because in a very short time the leaves may be frostbitten. 2. Temperature for pothos. In the north, with an indoor temperature above 10°C, pothos can overwinter safely. With an indoor temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households have little problem reaching this temperature. What needs attention is avoiding too large a temperature difference, and also making sure the leaves are not close to heating equipment. 3. Humidity for pothos refers to the water content of the air in the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. The following methods can be used to increase humidity. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours each day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the leaves, stems, and aerial roots of the plant several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the saucer under the flowerpot, increasing the local humidity around the plant through its evaporation; gently wipe the leaf surface with a cold wet towel or toilet paper, or lightly apply it to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with a transparent plastic film to create a mini-greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours per day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis. 4. Water for pothos. In autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, when the temperature is lower and the plant's soil evaporates more slowly, watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled at 1/4-1/2 of the original. Even after heating, watering should not be too frequent. When watering, pour less into the pot and let water seep through the palm fiber. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow on the palm pole, to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by overly rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to sit for one day is better; water that is too cold easily damages the roots. 5. Fertilizer for pothos. In the autumn and winter in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilization should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly apply sprayed liquid inorganic fertilizer, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilization should mainly be foliar spraying, mainly through the stomata on the leaf surface; fertilizer is absorbed through the stomata on the leaf surface, and the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Foliar fertilizer should use a special fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. The Beida Huahuashen series and Japan's Hanakazumi, among others, can all be used as foliar fertilizers. Pothos pole. Pothos does not set seed. Buying from a flower shop or cutting some tender, strong tip shoots from relatives or friends is enough for it to survive. After the tip shoots sprout, a pothos pole can be added. The pothos pole has a fixed supporting effect on the growth of pothos and can also provide necessary moisture. Usually, use it as a pothos pole, place it in the pot, bury a little soil, build a triangle with wooden sticks to fix it, then bury it in soil. Because plants still need to grow, the soil should not be too much. Insert already sprouted pothos seedlings into the soil. Generally speaking, the denser the pothos seedlings in the pot, the better they look after growing out. About 4-5 plants should be planted in one pot. Use string to tie the small seedlings on one side and fix them to the palm pole on the other, and water toward the palm pole to keep it moist. After some days, the aerial roots of pothos will take root and grow inside the palm pole. The best time to add the pothos pole is at the turn of spring and summer. In winter, the temperature is low and the seedlings are easily injured. When adding the pole, attention should be paid to maintaining the temperature.

Cultivation and Management of the Green Pet Golden Pothos (photo)

Speaking of golden pothos, probably no one does not know it, right? Whether in offices or homes, its figure can always be seen; even in darker corners, lush golden pothos can be seen striving to extend its branches and leaves. If we were to vote for plants suitable for indoor cultivation, I think golden pothos would be elected by a high vote!

Golden pothos is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Araceae family, native to the Solomon Islands. After being introduced to Taiwan, China, because Taiwan, China's climate is very suitable for their growth, in addition to artificially planted specimens, naturalized golden pothos plants can also be seen in the suburbs, climbing among the trees. The leaves of golden pothos are heart-shaped, the leaf surface is smooth, and the stem is trailing, either climbing or hanging. Leaf color varies by variety. Besides the common green leaves with yellow spots (golden vine), there are also green leaves with white spots (white golden vine) and yellow-green (lime golden pothos). Because of the beautiful leaf color and trailing habit of golden pothos, they often become one of the main plants in combination planters.

Golden pothos has a special habit: if the plant climbs from bottom to top, the leaves grow larger and larger; if the stems and leaves hang from top to bottom, the leaves grow smaller and smaller. Therefore, in general cultivation of golden pothos, besides being grown as a hanging basket, it is also often grown as a large upright potted plant using a tree fern pole as a climbing support. The growing medium must be well-drained, and potting soil mixed with tree fern chips can be used. Its light requirement is relatively low, but if variegated varieties are grown in a darker place, the leaf color will turn green. The plant can be moved to a place with bright diffused light, and the leaf markings will appear again. Besides soil cultivation, golden pothos can also be grown hydroponically. The advantages of hydroponics are not only simplicity, convenience, and cleanliness; the choice of containers is also more diverse, such as ceramic pots, glass bottles, tin cans, etc., all of which can be used as growing containers. The only thing to note is that the water level should not exceed 1/2 of the roots, otherwise the roots easily rot.

Generally, golden pothos is propagated by cuttings, carried out in spring and summer. Select stem segments containing 2 or more nodes, remove the leaves from the lowest node, insert them into the growing medium, and keep them humid. In about 1 week, they will root and sprout. After a plant has been grown for many years, it will show signs of aging. The stem segments can be cut off and re-propagated by cuttings, which can replace the old plant. For base fertilizer, Hyponex can be used once every three months, or Huabaobang once every two months; in spring and summer, when growth is more vigorous, Huabao can be used as a top dressing once every 2 weeks. If growing hydroponically, Huabao can be diluted 3000-5000 times and used as a growing solution, replacing the growing solution once every 2 weeks.

Almost every household grows golden pothos, but because they are robust by nature, they are often neglected by us. Either we forget to repot them, or we do not fertilize them. Although they will not shout in protest, their leaves will grow smaller and smaller, and the plants will become thin and weak. If you also grow golden pothos at home, do not ignore them anymore. They are little indoor greening vanguards! (Reporter Liu Yinghua

The correct method for growing Phalaenopsis

Contents

Morphological characteristics

Artificial cultivation

Key care points

Cultural symbolism

Expand

Edit this section Morphological characteristics

There are about 100 species of Phalaenopsis, native to Europe and Asia, North Africa, North America, and Central America. Two very famous species: Platanthera chlorantha has white flowers and is relatively small; Platanthera hologlottis has large green-white flowers and a relatively large plant form. Both have 5 to 15 flowers, fragrant, clustered into spike-like inflorescences.

The stem of Phalaenopsis is very short, often enclosed by leaf sheaths. The leaves are slightly fleshy, often 3 to 4 or more, green on the upper side, purple on the underside, elliptic, oblong, or sickle-shaped oblong, 10 to 20 cm long, 3 to 6 cm wide, with an acute or obtuse apex, wedge-shaped or sometimes skewed at the base, with a short and broad sheath. The inflorescence is lateral at the base of the stem, up to 50 cm long, unbranched or sometimes branched; the inflorescence stalk

green, 4 to 5 mm thick, covered by several scale-like sheaths; the inflorescence axis is purple-green, somewhat zigzag, often with several flowers opening one by one from the base toward the apex; floral bracts ovate-triangular, 3 to 5 mm long; pedicel together with ovary green, slender, 2.5 to 4.5 cm long; flowers white, beautiful, with a long flowering period; dorsal sepal nearly elliptic, 2.5 to 3 cm long, 1.4 to 1.7 cm wide, with an obtuse apex, slightly narrowed at the base, with reticulate veins; lateral sepals obliquely ovate, 2.6 to 3.5 cm long, 1.4 to 2.2 cm wide, with an obtuse apex, narrowed at the base and attached to the column foot, with reticulate veins; petals rhombic-circular, 2.7 to 3.4 cm long, 2.4 to 3.8 cm wide, with a rounded apex, narrowed at the base into a short claw, with reticulate veins; lip 3-lobed, at the base with a claw about 7 to 9

mm long; lateral lobes erect, obovate, 2 cm long, with a rounded or acute apex, narrowed at the base, with red spots or fine stripes, and with 1 yellow fleshy protuberance at the intersection between the two lateral lobes and the base of the mid-lobe; mid-lobe somewhat rhombic, 1.5 to 2.8 cm long, 1.4 to 1.7 cm wide, gradually narrowed at the apex and with 2 tendrils 8 to 18 mm long, wedge-shaped at the base; column stout, about 1 cm long, with a broad column foot; pollinia 2, nearly spherical, each splitting into 2 unequal parts. Flowering period April to June.

The scientific name of Phalaenopsis originally means in Greek "an orchid resembling a butterfly." It can absorb nutrients from the air to survive and is classified in the category of epiphytic orchids, and can be said to be a large tribe among tropical orchids. Its plant is very peculiar, having neither creeping stems nor pseudobulbs. Each plant grows only several broad leaves as thick as spoons, alternately stacked above the base. Thick white aerial roots are exposed around the leaves, some clinging to the outer wall of the flowerpot, full of natural wild charm. When the New Year season arrives, a flower stalk up to more than a foot long is drawn out from the leaf axil, and then flowers open one after another. Each flower has 5 sepals, with the lip embedded in the middle. The flower colors are bright and dazzling, including pure white, goose yellow, crimson, as well as pale purple, orange-red, and azure blue. Many varieties have two or three colors, some as if embroidered with patterned stripes, and some as if evenly sprayed with colored dots. Each stalk bears seven or eight flowers, and at most twelve or thirteen, and can be enjoyed continuously for sixty or seventy days.

The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous cut flower category, with more than 50 species in the whole genus. Phalaenopsis is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several flower stems, arching, with large flowers. It is named because the flower shape resembles a butterfly. Its flower posture is graceful and its colors are gorgeous. It is a treasure among tropical orchids and has the reputation of "queen of orchids."

Phalaenopsis has a graceful flower posture, elegant and diverse flower colors, and is named because its flower shape resembles a butterfly. It is widely cultivated in countries around the world. Although it belongs to epiphytic orchids, it has no pseudobulbs, only a very short stem at the base. The leaves are broad and thick, long elliptic, and can reach more than 50 cm. Some varieties have beautiful pale silver mottling on the leaves, with purple underneath. The flower stalk is drawn out from the leaf axil, slightly curved, varying in length, with several to hundreds of flowers, shaped like butterflies, sepals long elliptic, the tip of the lip 3-lobed, and flower colors are numerous and varied. It can bloom for more than one month. Abroad, it is often used as a cut flower and is a high-end product among tropical orchids. The vast majority of Phalaenopsis have no scent; only a few have a scent. We call it fragrant Phalaenopsis. This kind of Phalaenopsis is very rare, but many people say after smelling it that it is a foul smell, and some people who work near the flowers are made dizzy by the smell.

Growth habits

It likes environments with high temperature, high humidity, and good ventilation; it is not tolerant of waterlogging, tolerates semi-shade, avoids direct sunlight, avoids water accumulation, fears cold, with an optimal growth temperature of 22~28°C, and an overwintering temperature not lower than 15°C.

Distribution range

Phalaenopsis was discovered in 1750. To date, more than 70 native species have been discovered, most produced in humid Asian regions, naturally distributed in Assam, Myanmar, the islands of the Indian Ocean, the Malay Peninsula, the South Seas Islands, the Philippines, and even low-latitude tropical islands such as Taiwan, China. The Phalaenopsis produced in the forests around Wusenyong in Taitung and on Green Island are the most famous.

Variety types

There are about 70 or more native species worldwide, but most native species have small and inconspicuous flowers. Phalaenopsis cultivated commercially are mostly artificially hybridized and selected varieties.

There are about 530 or so varieties developed through hybridization and selection. Those with yellow flowers are relatively precious. There is a yellow-flowered variety called "Emperor," which can be called a "superstar" and is very expensive. Blue-flowered varieties are also relatively rare. At the 1952 and 1953 International Tropical Orchid Exhibitions, the Phalaenopsis sent by Taiwan, China won gold medal trophies for two consecutive years. At the 14th orchid exhibition held in Hong Kong, China in 1989, a Phalaenopsis with white petals and a red lip sent by Mr. Hu Bingchi won the overall championship award. These outstanding honors laid a solid

foundation for the development of Phalaenopsis. Today, consumption of Phalaenopsis by people in Europe and America is continuously increasing. At all high-level banquets, Phalaenopsis is indispensable as decoration. Many brides and bridesmaids prefer to use it as bouquets and corsages. In Italy alone, more than 2.6 million Phalaenopsis plants were sold in 1990, setting a historical record. In Hong Kong, China, each pot sells for about 70~100 Hong Kong dollars, and cut flowers from the mother stem sell for 15~30 Hong Kong dollars.

1. Phalaenopsis minor is a variety of Phalaenopsis. The flowers are slightly smaller.

2. Taiwan, China Phalaenopsis is a variety of Phalaenopsis. The leaves are large, flat, thick, green, and patterned. The flower stem branches.

3. Phalaenopsis schilleriana, also known as Schiller's Phalaenopsis. It is a common species in the same genus. The leaves are large, oblong, 70 cm long, 14 cm wide, with gray and green markings on the leaf surface and purple on the underside. It bears more than 170 flowers, with a flower diameter of 8~9 cm, pale purple, with white edges. Flowering period spring and summer.

4. Phalaenopsis mannii, also known as Banna Phalaenopsis. It is a common species in the same genus. The leaves are 30 cm long, green, with a yellow base. The sepals and petals are orange-red with brown-purple horizontal stripes. The lip is white, 3-lobed, the lateral lobes erect with a truncate apex, the mid-lobe nearly semilunar, raised at the central apex, with dense papillose hairs on both sides. Flowering period March to April.

5. Phalaenopsis aphrodite is a common species in the same genus. The leaves are 40 cm long, with an obvious midrib on the leaf surface, green, with purple on the underside. The flowers are white, often with green or cream yellow in the center.

6. Phalaenopsis philippinensis is a common species in the same genus. The flower stem is about 60 cm long, drooping. The flowers are brown, with purple-brown horizontal markings. Flowering period May to June.

7. Phalaenopsis hainanensis is a common species in the same genus. The sepals and petals are yellow-green, the lip is purple, and the base is raised on the back in a nipple-like shape.

Edit this section Artificial cultivation

Cultivation conditions

(1) Temperature

Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and the cultivation temperature should be maintained between 15~34°C. The appropriate temperatures are as follows: 26~27°C during the growth stage, 19~21°C during the flowering stage. In order to obtain more flower stalks, the temperature can be maintained at 18~20°C for a total of 4~8 weeks. When light is insufficient or the daytime temperature is too high, maintain at 18°C to strengthen flower induction (induce flower buds). Because leaf growth must also be maintained during the flowering period, the low-temperature period should not be too long. When light is insufficient, if the temperature is above 23°C for more than 24 hours, it will cause excessive vegetative growth and loss of flower buds.

(2) Light intensity

1. In the Netherlands

To obtain proper leaf and root development, sufficient light needs to be provided. Too much light causes scorch marks on the leaves. Too low light (below 100W/m 2) causes stagnation of plant growth, poor quality, improper flower bud development, and poor root development. The appropriate light level is 2002. In summer with strong sunlight (1400 W/㎡), use 80~85% shade netting.

2. In tropical regions

It is necessary to maintain 80~90% shading capacity. Usually a fixed net providing 65% shade and another set of movable net providing 65% shade are used. In areas with heavy rainstorms, plastic sheet roofing should be used to reduce disease and reduce rain leaching of the medium. (Note: This section addresses simple rain shelter facilities in places such as Indonesia, and does not discuss subtropical greenhouses.)

The appropriate light levels are as follows:

1. Growth stage: 5000~8000lux

2. Flowering stage: 8000~15000lux

In regions with abundant sunlight year-round, the light requirement can be increased by 20%. However, attention should be paid to the refraction of light so that all orchid leaves receive uniform light. At high light levels, relatively higher humidity should be maintained.

(3) Artificial supplementary lighting

Artificial supplementary lighting benefits leaf temperature, microclimate, and orchid seedling growth, and can reduce plant losses. Its characteristics are as follows:

1. Plug seedling growth: promotes rapid growth and reduces orchid plant losses

2. Growth stage: promotes rapid growth and better development

3. Flowering stage: helps flower stalk and flower bud development, reduces flower bud loss, and increases quality.

In winter, Phalaenopsis requires at least 12~14 hours and 3500~4000 lux of light, so artificial light sources are suitable. Using excessive light in sunny weather will cause the leaves to turn red, thus leading to stagnation of growth. In addition, orchid plants should maintain at least 8 hours of dark period to ensure carbon dioxide absorption.

(4) Carbon dioxide concentration

Phalaenopsis is a Crassulacean acid metabolism plant and absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600~800ppm.

(5) Relative humidity

Due to its physiological structure, Phalaenopsis can protect itself from stress under low humidity, but in overly humid environments, high temperature and high humidity often accompany disease. The most suitable relative humidity range is 60%~80%RH. Under high-temperature and low-humidity conditions, relative humidity needs to be increased. Applicable equipment systems include high-pressure misting equipment above the greenhouse to increase mist droplets, sprinkling water below the planting beds, and using water walls and fans, etc. However, crops must be prevented from becoming wet. Another additional benefit of humidification is lowering the temperature.

(6) Other information

When crops grow in a high relative humidity environment, daytime temperature and sunlight can both be increased, keeping the greenhouse interior at a constant temperature, and good air circulation must be maintained. Therefore, the greenhouse height should preferably be 3~4 meters higher than the plants.

In order to analyze the problems faced by plant growth, measurement and recording of the microclimate are very important. For example, light, temperature, and relative humidity all need to be measured and recorded. Measurement work can use microcomputers or handheld sensors, and daily maximum/minimum values all need to be measured.

Cultivation plan

The cultivation of cut-flower Phalaenopsis is divided into two stages:

1. Growth stage: from small seedling to mature plant.

2. Flowering stage: flower induction and cut flower sale.

(1) Growth stage

At the beginning of cultivation, smaller varieties or smaller-graded seedlings should be cultivated on another planting bed. Large varieties and larger grades can be arranged in square formation, but before the leaf width begins to touch, the pots should be spaced out to avoid growing thin and long leaves. In Europe, the planting bed area required for the growth stage is about 10% of the total cultivation area.

(2) Flowering stage

Economic cost calculation, with a 5-year flowering period:

After the plant has developed 4~5 leaves, replant it in a 15~17cm pot, and the pot spacing can already be fixed at this point. Varieties with larger leaf width need increased spacing. When the orchid plant has grown to a sufficient size and the root system is well developed, this orchid plant can serve as a flowering plant.

Each square meter has an average of about 20 plants, and from flowering planting to commercial production totals 5 years. If the seedlings are too small or the root system is poorly developed, the flower stalk will be smaller and the flowers smaller, the potted period will not be long, and the time until the next stalk emergence will be longer.

Phalaenopsis should be cultivated in transparent pots. Transparent pots can ensure more vigorous growth and better root quality. The pots are placed on the planting bed, and ventilation should be good. The width of movable planting beds should be less than 1.6 meters, and the height should be appropriate, so cut flower work is easy to carry out.

Medium

The standards for selecting the medium are as follows: large particles for drainage, fine particles (not dust particles) for maintaining and distributing water and nutrients. If the medium contains too much fine dust, it easily forms a hard layered structure at the bottom of the pot. The medium used in the Netherlands is bark 12~16mm long and 2~3kg/ of sphagnum. For large containers such as 14~24cm pots, coarser bark (14~24mm) is suitable, but it should be mixed with clay particles or lava medium. In a 17cm pot, adding an appropriate amount of sphagnum (2~3kg/m) can make moisture distribute evenly within the medium. This is especially important in the first year of cultivation. Within one year the sphagnum will decay and be damaged, but the root system can already distribute effectively within the pot.

Besides the medium, the drainage performance of the pot is equally important. After irrigation, water should not accumulate at the bottom of the pot for too long. Transparent pots can keep the roots within the pot, and the root system will turn green. If the root system only grows downward without coiling, the root fixation is not correct. After irrigation, water and nutrient absorption require a longer time, and the quality of future flower stalks becomes worse. Using transparent pots allows checking whether the root system remains vigorous and evenly distributed.

Within the first month after transplanting, the medium must be kept moist. The top must not be too dry. If the moisture change in the medium in the first week is too drastic, it will be difficult to remedy in later cultivation periods. However, overly moist medium can also cause problems.

Irrigation system

Available irrigation methods include:

1. Use drip irrigation lines,

2. Use fixed nozzles, irrigating from top to bottom,

3. Carry out manually,

4. Combine the above methods.

Phalaenopsis leaves easily absorb fertilizer components such as urea from the leaf surface during foliar fertilization. Porous medium is very important for the roots; despite negative capillary effects, its advantages are greater. In the early growth stage, using sprinkler irrigation or irrigation arms for irrigation is very useful for the crop. In the flowering stage, in order to avoid gray mold on petals caused by watering, drip irrigation lines are better. When the flower stalk already has many flowers, watering from above easily causes the flower stalk to break.

Irrigation water must not contain chemical components or visible microorganisms. The sodium and chloride ions contained in the water must not exceed 100mg/l, and bicarbonate must not be excessive. If there is no good water source, reverse osmosis treated water must be used. The amount of watering is related to climate, medium, and plant age. In the environment of Western Europe, the irrigation amount is approximately as follows: once every 7~10 days in winter, once every 5~7 days in summer. During the growth period, the water temperature needs to be 18~20°C to avoid root damage.

During the growth period and the first month after moving to a large pot, water must be applied from above. Besides effectively maintaining sufficient moisture in the medium, this can also avoid salinization at the top layer of the medium. After the root system is well developed, a drip irrigation system can be used instead. At least once a year, water should be applied from above to leach the medium.

Fertilizer

For fertilizing Phalaenopsis, compound fertilizer can be used or nitrogen fertilizer can be applied directly. Fertilizer application varies by variety. If base fertilizer is used, the base fertilizer must contain Dolokal (L3~4 kg / l) and PG mixture, with a pH range of 5.2~6.2 and an EC range of 0.8~1.2mS/cm. If nitrogen fertilizer is too high, it will cause excessive leaf growth. If the EC value is too high, the roots will die. If too low, the plant lacks trace elements. The best way to measure EC is to collect the water discharged from the bottom after irrigation. Above 1.5mS/cm indicates that the medium in the pot has become salinized. Usually red-brown spots form on the roots, and at this time they need to be leached with clean water or water of low EC.

Phalaenopsis should be fertilized year-round. Unless low temperatures persist for a long time, fertilization should not be stopped. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilizer easily leads to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growth period, and a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7~10 days. Organic fertilizer is preferable, and special Phalaenopsis nutrient solution can also be applied, but do not apply it when there are flower buds, otherwise the buds easily drop early. In summer, when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied as top dressing. In autumn and winter, during the flower stem growth period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it should be dilute, applied about once every 2~3 weeks. The time for fertilizing is after watering in the afternoon. After fertilizing several times, use a large amount of water to rinse the orchid pot and orchid plant, so as to avoid residual inorganic salts harming the roots.

Flowering stage

When the plant has 5 mature leaves, flower induction can be carried out. When the plant is sufficiently mature and has gone through a transition period, it will naturally draw out a flower stalk. Natural flower induction in autumn allows sale in February~March of the following year. Flowering time can be controlled by regulating temperature and light. When all flower buds on the flower stalk except the last one have opened, it can be cut for sale. When the flower stalk is cut, it usually already has three flower buds. The second flower stalk is drawn from the remaining flower buds, and starts from the terminal bud. However, inducing this new flower stalk requires a longer time, so whether to adopt this method of first natural flowering and then drawing a second flower stalk is decided by the required flower stalk quality and sales plan. Besides the first flower stalk, as long as the plant is healthy, a second time can produce double flower stalks, which can be sold as cut flowers. Therefore, an average of 2.5 flower stalks can be sold each year. After the flower stalk is drawn out, use hanging strings to keep it upright and avoid bending.

Immature flowering plants

During the growth period, flower stalks drawn out before maturity need to be removed promptly. Before the flower stalk becomes hard, it can be removed manually. If the flower stalk has already become hard, it must be cut off with a tool. Before removal or cutting, both hands and tools must be disinfected to avoid transmitting disease. Maintaining a temperature of 27°C during the growth period can avoid this premature flowering phenomenon.

Care by stages

From flask seedlings to flowering and sale, Phalaenopsis goes through 5 growth stages: flask seedlings, small seedlings, medium seedlings, large seedlings, and flowering stage. The key cultivation and management points are as follows.

1. Early management. In the flask seedling growth stage, the optimal growth temperature is 25~28°C during the day and 18~20°C at night. In the small seedling stage, the optimal growth temperature is 23°C. Above 35°C or below 10°C, growth stops. For small seedlings just out of the flask, the temperature should be lower than 20°C, air relative humidity should be maintained at 70%~80%, and light should be controlled below 1000 lux. After a transition period, light is gradually increased to 10,000 lux, and finally can reach 15,000 lux.

Fertilizer and water management during the small seedling growth stage plays a decisive role. Within 3~5 days after tissue-cultured seedlings are taken out of the flask, it is not suitable to apply fertilizer or water, but sterilization treatment must be carried out immediately. Carbendazim 1000-fold solution can be used for leaf surface sterilization, and rooting powder can be sprayed the next day, 3 times. After a 3~5 day transition period, apply fertilizer for the first time, using Peter's Professional 10 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 30:10:10) 1800-fold solution sprayed, with the standard being that the sphagnum is completely wet. One day later, use Peter's Professional 10 (30:10:10) 2500-fold solution as foliar fertilizer. After 1 week, according to the dry and wet condition of the small seedlings, apply fertilizer for the second time. At this time, the fertilization principle is high nitrogen, low phosphorus, low potassium.

After 4 months of cultivation, the small seedlings grow into medium seedlings, and at this time they should be repotted. The tightness of the sphagnum is based on the tightness of the muscle below the palm when the hand naturally forms a fist. The tightness can be greater or smaller, but the standard must be unified. Management in the medium seedling period is basically similar to the small seedling stage, but light can be increased to 20,000 lux. For fertilization, Peter's Professional 8 and No. 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratios 20:10:20 and 20:20:20 respectively) are used alternately. During the medium seedling period, attention should be paid to the orientation and growth trend of new leaves. Generally, they are placed in an east-west orientation, and the leaves should be regularly turned. At this time, the fertilization principle is low nitrogen, high phosphorus, high potassium.

After 4~6 months of cultivation, medium seedlings enter the large seedling stage. The management method is the same as for medium seedlings, but fertilization uses Peter's Professional No. 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 20:20:20).

2. Later management. The flowering period is the management of the later growth stage. The flowering of Phalaenopsis is induced by low temperature, so in addition to fine management, temperature should also be well controlled. First keep the temperature above 20°C for 2 months, then lower the nighttime temperature below 18°C, and flower buds form after 45 days. After flower bud formation, keep the nighttime temperature at 18~20°C and the daytime at 25~28°C. It can bloom after 3~4 months. During the flowering period, the temperature is slightly lowered, but not below 15°C. After the flower bud extends, a support must be erected, that is, erect the support before the flower stem extends and has not yet fallen over, and tie the flower stem to the support, leaving room for the flower stem to elongate and thicken.

Water and fertilizer management during the flowering period is especially important. Watering should preferably be carried out at 10 a.m., avoiding directly splashing water onto the flowers. After watering, use exhaust fans for ventilation, keep the air in the shed fresh, and allow residual water to dissipate as quickly as possible. At this time, fertilization with Peter's Professional No. 2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 10:30:20) 1000-fold solution is preferable, depending on the condition of the Phalaenopsis itself.

Phalaenopsis is susceptible to soft rot and gray leaf spot. Soft rot is extremely contagious. Once discovered, immediately isolate the diseased plant. Diseased plants can be controlled with mancozeb or Huoshengling. Usually sterilize once every 15 days.

Cultivation methods

Tropical orchid cultivation media must meet the following requirements:

It can enable the orchid root system to bear the weight of the orchid itself and maintain normal plant shape, but it must not be too heavy; lightweight is preferable.

Good drainage performance and good water retention performance. Orchid roots need moisture, but moisture must also be quickly drained, because water accumulation will cause root rot; on the other hand, moisture must be retained so it does not dry out too quickly. [1]

Good aeration performance.

Contains a considerable amount of mineral nutrients.

Can remain non-decayed for 1~2 years.

Inexpensive, suitable, easy to obtain, and convenient to handle.

The following media are suitable for cultivating tropical orchids:

Tree fern chips, made by processing and crushing the aerial roots of tree ferns;

Sphagnum moss;

Sphagnum;

Osmunda fiber, one type being black wire-like hard roots, and one type being brown softer roots; not easily decayed, containing small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and trace elements, draining and aerating while retaining water, and durable. pH value 5;

Bark, Douglas fir and white fir bark fragments, soft in texture, aerating and water-retaining, pH value 4~6;

Coconut coir and coconut shell fiber;

Others: palm fiber, dried leaves, trunks, branches, dried cow dung, pumice, clay pellets, broken brick pieces, tiles, vermiculite, plastic balls, etc. can all be used to grow orchids. The medium used in commercially sold potted Phalaenopsis is generally sphagnum.

Management before and after flowering

After the flower buds of Phalaenopsis (moth orchid) have formed, more phosphorus should be applied until flowering. When the flower stem extends upward and tends to lean to one side, a support stake should be set up and the stem tied so that the flower stalk does not break. Afterwards, as the flower stalk grows longer and taller, tying should also be carried out gradually, with the stake slightly arched to enhance the aesthetic appeal. Stop fertilizing during the flowering period and before new leaves emerge. After the flowers fade, for vigorous orchid plants with more than 5 leaves, the lower 3 to 4 nodes of the stem can be left and the rest cut back, and it may be hoped that flowers will appear again on the remaining flower stem. Watering should not be too frequent; water only after the medium has dried out completely.

Repotting

When a Phalaenopsis has many roots growing outside the pot, or when the medium inside the pot has turned black and rotted, it is time to consider repotting. The repotting steps are as follows:

Carefully remove the Phalaenopsis from the pot and remove all the old medium;

Trim the root system, cutting off dead roots, rotten roots, broken roots and shriveled roots. If the base of the orchid plant is too high, that is, the root stock is too long, part of it can be cut off;

Then place sphagnum moss against the roots and wrap the moist moss tightly around the root system;

Use a larger piece of foam plastic as a base at the bottom of the pot, put the moss-wrapped orchid plant into the pot, and pack the moss tightly around the edges of the pot so that the orchid plant does not wobble. Place it in a shaded spot and do not water until the moss has dried out completely. Ordinarily, just misting is enough (moist moss means soaking dry moss in water until thoroughly wet, taking it out and squeezing out the excess water).

Edit this section: Key care points

1. Growing medium: The common growing media for Phalaenopsis are mainly sphagnum and moss.

2. Temperature: When growing Phalaenopsis at home, temperature must first be ensured. Phalaenopsis likes a hot and humid environment; during the growing period the minimum temperature should be kept above 15°C, and the suitable growing temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16-30°C. Attention should be paid to raising the temperature in autumn and winter, at the turn of winter and spring, and when winter temperatures are low. Generally, in rooms with heating equipment in winter, this temperature is not difficult to reach, but note that the flowers should not be placed directly on the radiator or too close to it. When summer temperatures are on the high side, cooling is needed, and attention should be paid to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32°C, Phalaenopsis usually enters a semi-dormant state, and prolonged high temperatures should be avoided. Around the Spring Festival is the peak flowering period; appropriately lowering the temperature can extend the viewing time. During flowering, the nighttime temperature is best kept between 13-16°C, but must not be lower than 13°C.

3. Watering: Phalaenopsis originates from primeval forests, where there is more mist and higher temperatures. Phalaenopsis has no thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients, so if the air humidity is insufficient, the leaf surface wrinkles and becomes weak and limp. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and cared for in a ventilated, high-humidity environment. The suitable air humidity for Phalaenopsis growth is 60%-80%. Water more during the period of vigorous new root elongation, and water less during the dormant period after flowering. In spring and autumn, water once a day around 5 p.m.; in summer, when the plant grows vigorously, water once each at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.; in winter, when light is weak and temperatures are low, watering once every other week is sufficient, preferably before 10 a.m. If a cold wave hits, do not water; keep it dry and resume watering after the cold wave passes. The principle of watering is to water when dry and let it dry when wet: when the surface of the growing medium becomes dry, water thoroughly once, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, a sprayer can be used to spray directly onto the leaf surface, until the leaf surface is moist, but note that during the flowering period, the water mist must not be sprayed onto the flowers. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before being used for watering. 4. Light: Although Phalaenopsis is relatively shade-loving, the orchid plant still needs to receive some light. Especially before and after the flowering period, appropriate light can promote flowering in Phalaenopsis and make the flowers brightly colored and long-lasting. Generally, it should be placed in a spot indoors with diffused light, and direct sunlight should not be allowed.

5. Ventilation: The normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires moving fresh air, so when growing Phalaenopsis at home, ventilation must be good, especially during the high-humidity period in summer. Good ventilation must be used to prevent heatstroke, and it can also avoid infection by pests and diseases.

6. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized year-round; unless low temperatures persist for a long time, fertilization should not be stopped. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilization can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growing period, and a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7-10 days. Organic fertilizer is preferable, and a special nutrient solution for Phalaenopsis can also be used, but do not apply it when there are flower buds, otherwise the buds are prone to drop early. In summer, when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing. In autumn and winter, during the flower stem growth period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it should be dilute, applied about once every 2-3 weeks. Fertilization should be done after watering in the afternoon. After several fertilizations, flush the orchid pot and orchid plant with a large amount of water, so that residual inorganic salts do not harm the roots.

7. Post-flowering management: The flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last as long as 2-3 months. When the flowers wither, the faded flowers must be cut off as early as possible, as this can reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stem is cut at the 4th to 5th node from the base, it can bloom again after 2-3 months. However, this consumes too many nutrients from the plant and is not conducive to growth the following year. If you want good flowers again the following year, it is best to cut the flower stem from the base. When the medium ages, it should be replaced in a timely manner, otherwise air permeability becomes poor, causing root rot and weakening or even death of the plant. Generally, repotting in May, when new leaves grow, is preferable.

Precautions

1. Watering too frequently: Friends who grow Phalaenopsis always worry that the orchid lacks water, and water it every day regardless of whether the growing medium is dry, causing severe root rot.

2. Temperature too low: The flowering plants of Phalaenopsis are usually marketed mostly in early spring, and after being bought and taken home they are generally placed in places such as the living room for viewing. Although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the nighttime temperature is somewhat on the low side. On the other hand, professionally cultivated orchids are mostly in well-equipped greenhouses. By comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are somewhat insufficient, so that the plant's growth tends to weaken day by day. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well it is cared for, the orchid still may not bloom.

3. Excessive fertilization: Applying fertilizer whenever there is any, and not paying attention to concentration, thinking that applying fertilizer will make it grow faster. You should know that Phalaenopsis should be given light fertilizer, applied in small amounts and more often. Remember that "tonic feeding" must not be excessive, otherwise it will have the opposite effect.

4. Planting a small plant in a large pot: Thinking that using a large pot can give the Phalaenopsis a roomy environment and sufficient material. In fact, after using a large pot, the sphagnum does not dry easily. You should know that Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, and when air flows freely it thrives.

5. Dry buds on flowers: Most Phalaenopsis on the market today have been forced into bloom, and after leaving the base, once the environment changes, the problem of dry buds easily appears. At this time, do not think it is dry and do not water more; instead, increase indoor humidity and control indoor temperature; the temperature must not be too high. When buying flowers, try to choose ones with thick petals.

Over-summering techniques

1. Measures: Over-summering Phalaenopsis is mainly a matter of cooling, and the following measures should be taken:

① Add a double-layer shade net to reduce light, which can achieve a good cooling effect (lowering by 2°C-4°C).

② Sprinkle water on the ground or flood it. Summer temperatures are very high, but the water just drawn from a well is actually very cold, around 16°C. Therefore, sprinkling or flooding with water can produce an obvious cooling effect.

③ Spraying water on the leaf surface cools fastest, but lasts the shortest time.

④ Ventilation. Drill a 40cm×40cm square hole in the wall every 5 m at a height of 70 cm from the ground to increase ventilation and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases; turn on fans when the temperature is above 25°C to strengthen air circulation and benefit plant growth.

2. Undesirable phenomena that easily appear during over-summering

① Leaf aging and shedding: the lower leaves of some plants decline during the over-summering process, and from late summer to autumn gradually yellow and shed.

② Severe pests and diseases: especially when the weather is hot, the relative air humidity is too high and there is no wind, and temperatures are high, it easily leads to diseases such as soft rot, brown spot and viruses.

Cut flower techniques

Introduction to Phalaenopsis

The native range of Phalaenopsis is all tropical regions of Asia. In the wild, its daytime growing temperature is 28-35°C, and its nighttime temperature is 20-24°C; it prefers high relative humidity and shaded conditions. This crop absorbs nutrients through roots and leaves. The root system is also used to anchor the plant.

Breeding program

Anthura has a professional breeding team, and the breeding objectives are divided into pot flowers and cut flowers. This company is also the only company that lists cut flowers in its breeding program. The genetic characteristics of the male and female parents are required to have dominant differences to ensure that their offspring have stable inheritance, and thus can become a new variety. Its germplasm sources include varieties preserved since 40 years ago, as well as new lines purchased from Asia. The development of a new variety includes breeding through hybridization, selection, and mass propagation. Developing a new variety takes 7-9 years. From pollination to the formation of a seed pod takes 6 months, and from sowing seeds to becoming a seedling takes 1 year. From seedling to flowering takes 1.5 years. Using 1 flower stalk to produce tissue-cultured plantlets takes 2 years, and from plantlet to flowering takes 1.5 years, so 6.5 years have already passed. Only at this stage does mass propagation of meristem plantlets begin.

The Anthura Phalaenopsis breeding program has two main directions: cut flowers and pot flowers. The selection program includes flower shape and flower color. For cut flowers, the most important selection criteria include the number of flower stalks produced, color, the proportion of the best quality, the fewer branches the better, the thickness and strength of the flower stalk, the development of the flower stalk and flowers, flower shape, phyllotaxy, plant developmental traits, post-harvest storage and transport characteristics, and vase life, etc. Post-harvest characteristics are most closely related to genetics. The viewing period can vary from 5 days to 6 weeks. In addition to the above main selection criteria, other secondary selection criteria are also used to evaluate varieties, such as the loss rate during the orchid plant production process and disease resistance.

Plantlet characteristics

Anthura provides tissue-cultured plantlets and plug-tray plantlets. Tissue-cultured plantlets must be specially ordered. Customers gain two advantages from using plug-tray plantlets: reducing losses during the plantlet acclimatization period, and reducing the cultivation period by 5-7 months. Each plug tray contains 40 plantlets, which can be transplanted immediately upon delivery to the customer's greenhouse.

The plantlets in the rectangular trays have a leaf span of 10-14 cm and usually have 2-3 well-grown leaves. Before the plantlets are transplanted into 12 cm soft pots, they must be graded. Anthura does not carry out this grading work for customers. Usually the grower divides the plantlets in the rectangular trays into two grades, large and small, and after transplanting they are cultivated on different benches separately. The cultivation period for small plantlets is 3-4 months longer than for large plantlets.

Transplanting the plantlets into 12 cm soft pots is still mainly done by hand. The plantlets must be kept vertical, placed at the lower center of the soft pot, and planted at the correct height. If the plant's growing point is too deep, it is prone to disease infection; if the transplanting depth is too shallow, support is poor. After transplanting, the arrangement of the soft pots is very important. After the orchid plantlets grow and the leaves begin to shade each other from sunlight, the pots must be spaced out, increasing the distance between soft pots.

Cultivation management

Overview

It likes high temperatures, high humidity, and a ventilated, semi-shaded environment, and dislikes waterlogging and stuffy air. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. Because Phalaenopsis originates from tropical rainforest regions, it is by nature warmth-loving and cold-fearing. The suitable growing temperature is 18-30°C. In winter, below 15°C it stops growing, and below 10°C it easily dies. In various places in Lingnan, if mass production is to be carried out, cold protection facilities must be available and protective cultivation practiced. If growing a small amount at home, move it indoors immediately when cold weather comes and maintain the temperature so it can overwinter safely.

For its propagation, cell tissue culture is mostly used. After test-tube plantlets are developed and transplanted, they can bloom after about two years. For some mother plants, after the flowering period ends, the axillary buds on the flower stalk sometimes also grow and develop into daughter plants. When they grow roots, they can be cut from the flower stalk for division propagation.

Medium

Because of its epiphytic nature, the planting medium for potting should not be soil; instead, use sphagnum moss, pumice, tree fern crumbs, crushed charcoal, etc., or simply fix the plantlet onto a tree fern board (also called snake wood) and let it attach and grow on its own. This cultivation method imitates its original ecological environment. When it blooms, hanging the whole board on the wall for viewing indeed has a special charm. Phalaenopsis has quite a few aerial roots, and the root tips are emerald green and quite sensitive, so they must be carefully protected; the root tips must never be touched or damaged, otherwise that root will stop growing.

Temperature

Phalaenopsis belongs to the tropical high-temperature orchids, and the suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C. Below 15°C it enters dormancy, and below 10°C it easily dies. However, above 35°C high temperatures affect growth and make it prone to disease. Flowering requires experiencing one month of low temperatures of 15-18°C to promote flower bud differentiation; afterwards, if low temperatures continue, flower stalk sprouting is delayed.

Air

Phalaenopsis likes an environment with high air humidity and ventilation. The air is required to constantly maintain a humidity of 60%-80%, and the air should remain circulating, preferably with a gentle breeze. There must not be too much standing water in the pot. If the roots are surrounded by liquid water for 6-8 hours, they very easily rot. Therefore, ventilation is the key to growing Phalaenopsis well, and the medium needs to be loose and breathable so that the roots grow strong and healthy. Dry, hot wind is disliked. When growing in northern winters, it must not be placed on a radiator or directly facing air-conditioner airflow.

Sunlight

Under natural conditions, Phalaenopsis mostly grows epiphytically on the branches and trunks of tall trees in tropical rainforests, sheltered by tree shade. Direct scorching sunlight is disliked, otherwise it will cause large-area burning of the leaves; but it also cannot tolerate too much shade indoors, which will lead to slow growth and be unfavorable for nutrient storage and flowering. It is best to place it on a balcony or beside a windowsill facing north or east, so that it receives diffused light; then it will grow strong and have few diseases.

Water

Because it has no stolons and no pseudobulbs, Phalaenopsis is not drought-tolerant; and because of its epiphytic nature, Phalaenopsis also fears waterlogging and wetness. During the high-temperature period in summer, it is enough to keep the medium moist. A sprayer can be used to sprinkle water to cool and increase humidity (but water must not remain in the leaf center, as it easily causes heart rot). A moist towel can also be placed beside the flower pot to increase humidity, but be sure to note: the roots must not be overly wet and shaded for a long time, especially being surrounded by liquid water for a long time makes them very prone to rot. For example, the daily watering amount in summer should be such that it can naturally air-dry the same day, alternating dry and wet, which will greatly reduce the incidence of root rot and diseases. In winter, water less and just keep the medium slightly moist.

Fertilization

The fertilization principle for Phalaenopsis is light fertilizer applied frequently, and chemical fertilizer must never be too concentrated. A concentration about 1 time more diluted than the concentration stated on the chemical fertilizer packaging is suitable. That is, around 1500-2000 times. A special fertilizer for Phalaenopsis can also be used. Apply nitrogen and potassium fertilizer during the growing period, and apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer during the flower-forcing period. Applying once a week or once a fortnight is enough. Do not fertilize during the flowering period or dormant period, but attention should be paid to appropriately supplementing fertilizer before and after flowering.

Cultivation techniques

Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid, and cultivation requires good root ventilation. The potting medium must be loose, well-draining and breathable. Moss, fern roots, bark chunks, coconut shell or vermiculite, etc., are commonly used. About 30-40 days after the new plant is planted, new roots grow out.

During the growing period, fertilize once every ten days. From flower bud formation to the flowering period, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Also frequently spray water on the ground and leaf surface to increase air humidity, which is very beneficial to the growth of stems and leaves. Repot each year in May-June when new roots begin to grow after flowering; the temperature should be 20-25°C. If the temperature is too low, the new plant recovers slowly and is also prone to rot. High temperatures above 32°C are unfavorable to the growth of Phalaenopsis and will cause it to enter a semi-dormant state, affecting flower bud differentiation, with the result that it does not bloom. Phalaenopsis has long flower spikes and large flowers, so when potted, a support stake is needed to prevent it from toppling over and affecting the floral appearance.

The flower pot should be a bit larger; the size of the flower pot is also very important. If the root system of the plant is very large, the flower pot should also be appropriately increased; if the root system is small, do not use too large a flower pot. If the flower pot is large and contains much soil, it is easy to make the soil's permeability poor. When planting, orchids, camellias, azaleas, white orchids, gardenias, etc., need acidic soil (mountain soil); Phalaenopsis and clivia use leaf mold; osmanthus, sago palm, palm grass, etc., use 2/3 garden soil plus 1/3 coal ball ash, the purpose being to increase the soil's permeability.

Pest and disease control

The flowering of Phalaenopsis is mainly affected by temperature. Flower bud differentiation requires low-temperature stimulation. After stimulation for one month with daytime 20-23°C and nighttime below 18°C (but not below 15°C for a long time), the latent buds in the stem can be transformed into flower buds. Afterwards, when the flower buds break through the epidermis and grow into flower stalks, a relatively higher temperature is needed, and the normal growing temperature is suitable. Continuous low temperatures will cause the flower stalk to emerge slowly, the flowers to be on the small side, or even to wither midway. Appropriately increasing sunlight during the flowering period helps the flowers to be large and brightly colored and to bloom earlier. Pest and disease control of Phalaenopsis: The occurrence of Phalaenopsis diseases is mostly caused by poor environment and hygiene, and diseases are especially likely to arise at low temperatures or when sunlight is insufficient. Regular environmental cleaning and temperature-humidity control, and rapid removal of diseased plants, can prevent the occurrence and spread of most diseases. Phalaenopsis diseases can generally be divided into those caused by bacteria, mold, insects, and the environment. The disease conditions and control methods are as follows:

Bacterial diseases: This type of disease at first mostly multiplies in the internal tissues, and then spreads over the leaf surface and plant body surface. Common symptoms include exuding sap and rotting, mostly due to excessive watering or transmission through insects or contact between plants. Black rot symptoms: a common disease of orchid plants; once a Phalaenopsis is infected, it usually rots to death as a whole plant, making it a fairly serious disease. Control method: Special attention must be paid to greenhouse ventilation, and the temperature also needs to be appropriately lowered. If any orchid plant develops this disease, spraying water must be avoided to prevent the disease from spreading. A fungicide powder should be sprayed to protect uninfected orchid plants, and the diseased plant should be removed as soon as possible.

Brown rot symptoms: This can be said to be a rather difficult disease to deal with among orchid diseases. At first, pale spots appear on the plant body or leaf surface, then they gradually deepen and turn dark brown, and cause the plant body to wrinkle. Brown rot spreads quite quickly; from initial onset to wrinkling and rotting takes only one day. Usually infection occurs in the morning and rotting begins in the evening, making it a rather troublesome Phalaenopsis disease. Brown rot mostly occurs in environments with high air humidity, and is most likely to occur in spring and summer. At this time air humidity is relatively high and orchid plants grow relatively fast. Once an orchid plant is infected, it easily causes surrounding orchids to become infected as well. Control method: Brown rot easily occurs in environments with high air humidity. If diseased plants are found, watering must be stopped, the affected parts cut off, and fungicide applied. If the disease is severe or there is concern that the condition will expand, the diseased plant can be removed or isolated. If other orchid plants are at risk of infection, fungicide powder can be sprayed for prevention. Humidity in spring and summer must also be strictly controlled, and the orchid garden should be kept ventilated and the environment clean.

Mold: Too great a change in environmental humidity, or damage to the plant caused by soil and nutrient solution fertilizer factors, causes mold to attack the orchid tissue. Lowering the EC value of the irrigation water and reducing the moisture in the medium are common treatment methods. In addition, gray mold on orchid petals is also a mold disease, forming small spots on orchid flowers. The cause of this disease is excessive dampness or too high relative humidity, and temperature and humidity control is needed.

Spot disease symptoms: It mostly occurs on the upper leaves. At first, round dark brown spots appear on the leaf surface, and the spots gradually spread and finally cause the orchid plant to rot. It is a type of fungal disease, mostly occurring in low-temperature, humid and poorly ventilated environments in autumn and winter. Control method: This disease mostly occurs in low-temperature, humid and poorly ventilated environments. The control method first emphasizes improving dampness and keeping the leaf surface dry. On cold days, water as little as possible, raise the environmental temperature and maintain ventilation, and do not let damp water stagnate on the plant body. Leaf blight symptoms: In the early stage of leaf blight, discoloration begins at the leaf tip, then gradually spreads to the whole leaf and whole plant, and finally the entire orchid turns dark brown, and the affected orchid plant body hardens and dies. This disease is also caused by an overly humid environment, and attention must be paid to humidity control.

Control method: Pay attention to humidity control in the orchid garden, and improving ventilation also requires special attention. If there is concern about disease, fungicide powder can be sprayed for prevention, and orchid plants that have already become diseased must be cut off and isolated as soon as possible to avoid the disaster expanding.

Insect slugs and snails: Slugs and snails are common Phalaenopsis pests. The commonly occurring damage is that the young plant body is gnawed and produces small holes, affecting the orchid's appearance and growth. The damage from snails and slugs is quite rapid; in a short period they can harm many orchid plants. Once discovered, insecticide must be used as soon as possible to drive them away. Mites: Red spider mites cause deformation and discoloration by biting the leaf area, creating unfavorable factors for the orchid's appearance and growth. Insecticides can be used to control this type of pest.

Physiological abnormalities caused by the environment: Bud drop. After the orchid finishes flowering, if the light is too strong and the room temperature is too high, the phenomenon of buds dropping before the flowering period ends easily occurs. Poor root development of the orchid can also cause this. For Phalaenopsis bud drop, treatment must start from the above two points. Spots: Spots appearing on orchids are not necessarily a pathogen problem; sometimes too strong light or poor environmental adaptation can also produce the same symptoms. Attention must be paid to changes in the environment, especially when the plant body is moved.

Pest and disease management

Appropriate sanitation and weekly removal of diseased plants can prevent most disease transmission. Bacterial infection is mainly due to water droplets splashing onto the plant body, or being affected during transport. This kind of disease cannot be controlled with chemical agents. Various diseases and their transmission methods are as follows:

1. Bacterial diseases

Bacterial brown spot is the most serious disease of Phalaenopsis. The symptom is brown spots appearing on the leaves. They are oily or heart-shaped, and are surrounded by a yellow-shaped substance. Treatment methods include adjusting the nitrogen amount in the fertilizer solution, removing diseased plants, and maintaining stable relative humidity. Chemical agents have no effect on this disease. Only by using well-grown, healthy plants can this kind of bacterial problem be avoided.

2. Mold

Too great a change in moisture in the medium or an unsuitable EC value causes root damage, thereby prompting mold to attack the tissue. The way to deal with it is to lower the EC value of the irrigation water and temporarily reduce the moisture content of the medium.

3. Botrytis

Another disease caused by mold is gray mold on the petals, forming many small spots on the flowers. The cause is that the plant remains in a damp state for too long or the relative humidity is too high.

4. Fusarium

Fusarium causes black triangular spots and forms yellow and dark red on the basal leaves. The leaves will quickly fall off. This disease easily occurs when the roots are in standing water.

Common cases

1. Leaf spot: It mainly occurs on the leaves. At the early stage of the disease, small spots appear on the leaves, and later they develop into nearly round lesions. The edges of the lesions have a water-soaked yellow ring, with clear boundaries. Control method: Strengthen ventilation, lower air humidity, and cut off diseased leaves. During the disease period, spray with 800 times diluted 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, once every 10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.

2. Gray mold: It occurs in spring when temperatures are low and humidity is high. Generally, small brown spots appear on the petals of white flowers, and in severe cases a soft rot phenomenon occurs. Control method: Strengthen ventilation, lower humidity, and immediately cut off affected flowers. At the early stage of the disease, spray with 1000 times diluted 75% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder, once every 10 days, for 2 consecutive sprays.

3. Brown spot: It occurs in summer and autumn in hot and humid weather, mainly on the leaves. At the early stage of the disease, round small spots appear on the leaves, and later they gradually expand into large spots. The lesions are dark brown, and in severe cases the leaves turn black and wither. Control method: Pay attention to ventilation and light transmission. At the early stage of the disease, spray with 80 times diluted 10% polyoxin once every half month.

4. Scale insects: The most common pest of Phalaenopsis, mostly occurring in autumn and winter, when indoor ventilation is poor and dryness leads to scale insect damage. Control method: Pay attention to ventilation, and the orchid plants should not be placed too densely. When only a small number is found, the scale insects can be wiped off with a soft cloth; repeating this several times can eradicate the pest.

5: Soft rot

(1) Disease symptoms

Bacterial soft rot mainly harms the marginal leaves, heart leaves, leaf sheaths and basal stem. When it harms the marginal leaves, green-bean-sized, round, water-soaked spots first appear on the front of the leaf, and they expand extremely quickly. Under suitable conditions, within 5-8 h they can rapidly expand into round water-soaked rotten spots 3-4 cm in diameter, and then spread into patches or even the whole leaf, causing the leaf to soften and rot. After the leaf mesophyll softens and rots, thread-like leaf veins remain, and pus-like exudate overflows, giving off a rotten apple smell [1]. When it harms the leaf sheath, it starts from the sheath membrane and goes upward along the leaf veins, causing part of the leaf to turn yellow. After spreading, the leaf sheath together with the leaf base becomes discolored and soft-rotted, and the entire leaf falls off. The symptoms of heart leaf infection and marginal leaf infection are basically the same; in severe cases it rots together with the basal stem, and the entire plant dies.

(2) Causes of the disease

2.1 Repeated use of the greenhouse, large pathogen base

The pathogens causing soft rot include 2 types, bacteria and fungi. They all overwinter in soil, weeds, seedling beds, and seedlings, spread through wind and rain, and invade through wounds and stomata. Under suitable conditions they can all cause disease and become the main infection source of initial diseased plants. The larger the pathogen base, the more severe the disease in that year. At present, Phalaenopsis mostly uses greenhouse soilless cultivation. Because the greenhouse is reused, a large number of pathogens reside in the indoor soil, seedling beds, trays and pots, and walls, making the disease worse year after year. Even for a new greenhouse, because seedlings are introduced from epidemic areas, the seedlings themselves carry pathogens, which also becomes an important route for long-distance transmission of the disease.

2.2 High temperature and high humidity

According to observation, when the temperature exceeds 26°C and the humidity exceeds 60%, plants begin to develop the disease. As temperature and humidity increase, the lesions expand rapidly and the speed of spread accelerates [2]. While greenhouses keep warmth, they also increase the humidity inside. Especially in summer and autumn, the humidity approaches saturation and the temperature is also much higher than the outdoor temperature. Even with fan ventilation and water curtain cooling, the daytime temperature is still above 30°C, and at night it is also 27-30°C. While cooling, the water curtain also increases the humidity inside the greenhouse. Therefore, conditions for disease are greater inside the greenhouse than outside. When watering, splashed water droplets very easily spread pathogens from diseased plants to the surroundings, forming a disease center area centered on old diseased plants. While ventilating, the fan also accelerates indoor air flow, speeding up the diffusion of pathogens within the greenhouse. At the same time, because nighttime humidity is greater, the speed of lesion expansion and the plant disease incidence are much higher than during the day. Overnight, small spots become large spots, and healthy plants become diseased plants. There are great differences in susceptibility among plant lines. Generally, large-leaf varieties are more susceptible; those with thick leaf wax are more resistant; plants that have not flowered are more resistant; plants that have flowered are more susceptible; the Ruby variety is the most susceptible; Taicun Red Angel and Shihua Diamond are not resistant.

(3) Control measures

3.1 Do a good job of disinfecting the greenhouse and seedlings

Before the greenhouse is used for seedlings in spring, especially reused greenhouses, disinfection must be carried out thoroughly to eradicate overwintering pathogens and reduce the pathogen base. For chemicals, 100 times diluted 40% asomate, or 200 times diluted sodium pentachlorophenate can be used for indoor spraying, and quicklime can also be spread at 500 g/sq m for ground disinfection. After application, close the greenhouse for 3-4 d. In new areas, avoid introducing seedlings from epidemic areas, and pay attention to the inspection and quarantine of newly introduced seedlings. Immediately after entering the greenhouse, spray with 800 times diluted 10% duoxiu water agent for sterilization, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. Susceptible lines should be cultivated separately from other lines to avoid cultivation in the same room and on the same bench, reducing cross-infection.

3.2 Strengthen water and fertilizer management

Phalaenopsis is a flower with high water demand, but if the watering amount is too large or too frequent, the medium in the pot contains too much water and remains saturated for a long time, with poor aeration, it easily causes root rot, affects the plant's healthy growth, and lowers disease resistance. Each time you water, you should achieve alternating dry and wet: do not water until dry, and water slowly and gently, preventing water from splashing onto the leaves. It is appropriate for the water to just seep to the medium at the bottom of the pot. Generally, watering in the morning is preferable; avoid watering in the evening and letting leaves remain wet overnight. The water temperature should be as close to room temperature as possible. For seedlings whose medium has been too wet for a long time, the pot bag can be removed to air-dry the seedling. Phalaenopsis fertilization is generally carried out together with watering. Fertilization should follow the principle of light fertilizer applied frequently, and compound fertilizer rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and organic fertilizer are suitable. At the seedling stage, compound fertilizer with high nitrogen content can be applied; at the flower-forcing stage, compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium content can be applied; during the high-temperature disease period in summer, trace elements such as calcium and magnesium can also be added.

3.3 Lower the greenhouse temperature and humidity, and strengthen patrols

The most suitable temperature for Phalaenopsis growth is 25-30°C, and the most suitable humidity is 60%-70%. However, in summer the temperature and humidity inside the greenhouse greatly exceed these limits. Adding a double-layer shade net can not only lower the greenhouse temperature but also prevent strong light from burning the leaves. Simple greenhouses without exhaust ventilation should uncover the surrounding greenhouse cloth to lower temperature and humidity. For greenhouses equipped with fans and water curtains, special attention should be paid to reducing the water curtain sprinkling time at night and extending the exhaust ventilation time. Seedlings on the bench should not be placed too densely; a certain plant and row spacing should be left to avoid leaves crossing and overlapping, so as to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and create a good microclimate for healthy plant growth. Always keep the greenhouse clean and sanitary, ensuring no weeds and no residual diseased leaves in the greenhouse. From the beginning of the disease, insist on patrolling the garden 2-3 times a day to promptly discover diseased plants and remove diseased leaves. For diseased leaves with small lesions, they can be cut off at the healthy part 4-5 cm from the lesion. Leaves that are completely rotten should be thoroughly removed together with the leaf sheath. Diseased leaves should be promptly taken outside the greenhouse and deeply buried. Diseased and residual plants should be isolated in time to prevent recurrence of infection. The scissors and knives used must also be disinfected to prevent human transmission.

3.4 Chemical control

For bacterial soft rot, from the beginning of the disease, alternately spray 600 times diluted caijunqing solution or 3000-4000 times diluted agricultural streptomycin every 7-10 d. For fungal soft rot, 80% thiophanate-methyl or 80% mancozeb at 800-1000 times dilution can be used, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. Spraying should be uniform, so that the leaf surface drips and the base is soaked. It is best to finish spraying at 15-16 o'clock, so that the water liquid on the leaf surface dries before nightfall, reducing the humidity in the greenhouse and on the leaf surface.

(2) Viruses

The symptoms of a Phalaenopsis infected by a virus are smaller flowers and slower growth speed. However, the growth traits of some varieties are not affected by virus infection. The symptoms of the virus are more obvious during the low-temperature flower-forcing stage. The greatest impact of the virus on Phalaenopsis lies in growth speed.

(3) Insects and small animals

1. Slugs and snails

Slugs and snails will bite small holes in young plants, and can also harm many plants within just a few days. They also bite and damage the root tips. Using chemicals can effectively control this kind of small animal.

2. Mites

Red spider mites cause slight deformation and severe color changes in the leaf area. Because their distribution is in a concentrated state, they can be controlled with insecticides.

3. Thrips: Brown thrips can usually be found on every part, and they appear in groups. Chemical agents are difficult to eradicate them with. Removing diseased plants is the best solution.

4. Sciaridae, fungus gnats: This kind of insect attacks the root tips. Applying a predatory natural enemy (Hypoaspis predatory mite, 100-150/ 2) and hanging yellow sticky insect boards can prevent infection.

(4) Physiological abnormalities caused by the environment

1. Bud drop

At the stage when flowering is complete, if the light is too strong or the temperature is too high, it easily causes buds to drop from the flower stalk. Poor root quality can also cause this phenomenon. If flowers are not given an adaptation stage before transport, bud drop can also occur.

2. Chilling injury during transport:

When plants are transported from the growing area to the sales area, orange-red spots may appear on the leaf surface, usually caused by cell death due to chilling injury. Other environmental stresses or overly strong light can also cause them.

(5) Phytotoxicity: due to the use of unsuitable chemical agents.

Harvesting and packaging

The flower stalk should be fixed with a support stake or sling. It can be harvested when there is still one unopened bud. The flower stalk is inserted into a preservative tube containing 16 cc. Chrysal or hot water at 40-45°C can be used as the preservative solution. The bouquet is placed into a packing box and stored at 7-10°C. If the flowers are slightly wilted, the stalk can be cut and then placed in hot water at about 40°C. Vase life ranges from 5 days to 6 weeks, varying by variety and surrounding environment. The size of the cut flower packing box is 100×15×11.5 cm. Usually a box contains 25-30 flowers. The selling price varies by variety and the orchid garden producing them.

1. Harvesting stages

The harvesting of Phalaenopsis generally includes two stages:

1. From the bud stage to full opening;

2. Fully open to mature and senescent.

2. Harvesting purpose

1. To promote the opening of Phalaenopsis buds, so that Phalaenopsis can fully display its ornamental characteristics;

2. Second, to reduce metabolism, delay flowering and senescence, and extend the life of Phalaenopsis.

3. Harvesting method

Phalaenopsis is harvested when the flowers are fully open or the buds have been open for 3 to 4 days. If it is close to the market, the harvest time can be slightly later; if it is farther from the market, the harvest time should be slightly earlier. In addition, attention should be paid to the harvest time within a day. Harvesting in the morning can maintain high turgor pressure in the cells of Phalaenopsis flowers, that is, at this time the water content of Phalaenopsis flowers is the highest, which helps reduce the occurrence of postharvest wilting in Phalaenopsis; however, morning harvesting, because of heavy dew, is also more humid and more susceptible to infection by fungal and other diseases.

Economic evaluation

With a production area of 1000 sq m, the economic evaluation is as follows:

a. Cultivation area: 1000 sq m

b. Actual planting area: 870 sq m

c. Area used for cultivation: 87 sq m

d. Area used for flowering plants: 783 sq m

e. 20 plants per sq m, 15,666 plants in total.

f. Product: 2.5 flower stalks per year, 39,150 flower stalks produced per year. Each flower stalk has 8 to 10 flowers, with an annual output of 313,200 flowers.

g. Average price in 2003: 0.51 euros per flower

h. Output value of 1000 sq m is 159,732 euros

i. Output value per sq m is 160 euros

Edit this section: Cultural symbolism

Meaning of the famous orchid

Phalaenopsis flower language: I love you, happiness is flying to you

Zodiac signs corresponding to Phalaenopsis: Aquarius & Sagittarius, representing loyalty, wisdom, rationality, and virtue.

Phalaenopsis of various flower colors also have different meanings:

White Phalaenopsis: pure love, precious friendship

Red-heart Phalaenopsis: good fortune arrives, forever united

Red Phalaenopsis: smooth career, happy and fulfilling

Striped Phalaenopsis: everything goes smoothly, wishes come true

Yellow Phalaenopsis: flourishing career, prosperous business

Mini Phalaenopsis: happy angel, in the prime of youth

Phalaenopsis -- first love, gradual happiness, pure beauty

Flower language of life

◇ White Phalaenopsis: pure love, precious friendship

◇ Red-heart Phalaenopsis: good fortune arrives, forever united

◇ Red Phalaenopsis: smooth career, happy and fulfilling

◇ Striped Phalaenopsis: everything goes smoothly, wishes come true

◇ Yellow Phalaenopsis: flourishing career, prosperous business

◇ Mini Phalaenopsis: happy angel in the prime of youth

Phalaenopsis flower language: I love you, happiness is flying to you

Zodiac signs corresponding to Phalaenopsis: Aquarius & Sagittarius, representing loyalty, wisdom, rationality, and virtue

Prose for delight

Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis is a beautiful "princess," bringing people much fragrance and beauty.

The stem of Phalaenopsis is dark, the leaves are spoon-shaped and emerald green, and the beautiful flowers emerge from the spoon, wearing purple garments; some have only unfolded two or three petals, some have all their petals fully open, revealing pearl-like stamens; some are still flower buds, looking as if they are about to burst open at any moment. At this time, aren't the Phalaenopsis I see just little purple butterflies? Oh! I understand, this is how Phalaenopsis got its name.

One little butterfly after another stops on the flower stem, as if they are looking at all of us! They also seem to be saying to us: "Everyone, look at me quickly, I am the princess among a hundred flowers!" At this time Phalaenopsis smiles at us; it nods for a while, looks here for a while, then looks there for a while, and sometimes even dances for us from time to time! Princess Phalaenopsis is really such a naughty and cute creature!

Phalaenopsis is really so beautiful!

References:

1. Introduction to Phalaenopsis and key points for care

2. Taitung City city flower

How to Propagate the Happiness Tree? A Full Guide to Planting and Care Essentials

How to Grow Golden Pothos (Devil's Ivy)

The correct method for growing Phalaenopsis

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