How to grow Phalaenopsis orchids? Detailed guide to cultivation methods and planting techniques

Phalaenopsis is a plant suited to indoor cultivation, with flowers shaped like butterflies. Elegant and refined. It has the reputation of being the “queen of orchids.” The flowers are the most ornamental part of the Phalaenopsis. Since most Phalaenopsis orchids originate from humid Asia, this determines their growth characteristics: ventilation, breathability, and moderate temperatures. A high-humidity environment can be said to be very suitable for growing Phalaenopsis. Beginners should understand before growing Phalaenopsis that standing water is not good for their growth, and they should avoid exposing Phalaenopsis to scorching sun. When winter comes, indoor temperatures must be controlled well; when the temperature drops below 15 degrees, the growth of Phalaenopsis will be affected. Below, the editor will introduce the cultivation methods of Phalaenopsis in detail.

Growth habits of Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis originated in tropical rainforest regions and by nature loves warmth and fears cold. The suitable growth temperature is 15~20°C; below 10°C in winter it stops growing, and below 5°C it easily dies. Native to the tropical regions of Malaysia, Phalaenopsis belongs to the genus Phalaenopsis in the orchid family and is a perennial herbaceous plant. Forest trees along riverbanks and coasts with high temperatures and high humidity are where Phalaenopsis grows as an epiphyte.

Because of its physiological structure, Phalaenopsis can protect itself from the effects of stress under low-humidity conditions, but in overly wet environments, high temperature and high humidity often come with disease. The most suitable relative humidity range is 60%~80% RH.

Propagation methods of Phalaenopsis

1. Seed propagation method: seed propagation means sowing the seeds released from already split seed capsules into the pot of the parent plant. This method is simple and easy, requiring no complex sterile procedures or operating tools, and is suitable for ordinary home growers of Phalaenopsis, but the chance of success with this method is very small and it is rarely used. There is also the sterile sowing method, in which mature unsplit seed capsules are first washed clean, then immersed in 75%~90% ethanol or chloroform for 2~3 seconds, then soaked in 5%~10% bleaching powder solution or 3% hydrogen peroxide for 5~20 minutes. The seeds are removed and soaked in the same disinfecting water for 5~20 minutes, then the solution is removed by filtering, the seeds are taken out, and a fine needle is used to evenly spread the seeds on the surface of the prepared culture medium in a bottle. The culture conditions are a light intensity of 2000~3000 lux, 10~18 hours per day, and a temperature maintained at 20~26°C. After 9~10 months, when the young seedlings grow 2~3 leaves, they can be taken out of the bottle and planted in pots.

2. Flower stalk budding propagation method: first cut off the part of the flower stalk that has finished blooming, then carefully use a blade or sharp knife to remove the bracts between the first to third nodes on the upper part of the flower stalk, exposing the buds in the internodes; use a cotton swab to evenly apply budding agent or hormones such as indolebutyric acid to the exposed nodes of the internodes; after treatment, place the orchid plant in a semi-shaded area with the temperature maintained at 25~28°C. After 2~3 weeks, the buds can be seen growing leaves, and after 3 months they grow into small Phalaenopsis seedlings with 3~4 leaves and aerial roots; cut off the small seedlings and pot them, and they become a new orchid plant.

3. Crown-cutting budding propagation method: after the growing point of an orchid plant is damaged by some factor, after a period of time, 1~2 new buds will grow from the stem nodes near the base of the plant. This characteristic can be used to propagate Phalaenopsis.

4. Stem-cutting propagation method: the principle of stem-cutting propagation is to destroy the stem apex growing point to induce dormant buds to grow. Although there are 1~3 dormant buds in the leaf axils of a Phalaenopsis plant, most cannot sprout into a plant. After the plant continuously grows upward and the stem nodes become longer, the upper part of the plant with roots can be cut off with a sterilized sharp blade or scissors and planted in a new pot to continue growing, while the lower part with the rhizome is given proper water management, and new buds will soon sprout.

5. Tissue culture method: using tissue culture to propagate Phalaenopsis can obtain excellent genetic characteristics exactly the same as the mother plant. The Phalaenopsis seedlings produced by this method are called meristem seedlings or tissue seedlings. The plant tissue used for meristem culture (explant) can be the terminal bud (stem tip), stem segments (dormant buds), or young leaves or root tips, but currently the most common is the flower stalk of Phalaenopsis.

Cultivation methods of Phalaenopsis

1. Light. For newly purchased bottle seedlings, the light should be slowly increased to 5000Lx; after coming out of the bottle, from 3000~5000Lx; entering normal management, 5000~7000Lx; medium seedlings of Φ8.4cm require a light intensity of 10000~3000Lx; large seedlings of Φ10.6cm require 15000~18000Lx; during flower forcing, the light intensity requires 7000~8000Lx; from flower bud initiation until the flower stalk is 10~15cm, the light slowly rises from 10000Lx to 14000Lx, with slow transitions in management for each summer period. According to the light requirements of different seedling stages, combined with weather conditions, the light intensity is controlled by retracting the inner and outer shade nets.

2. Temperature. The daytime temperature requirements for large, medium, and small Phalaenopsis are basically the same, preferably not exceeding 30°C; at night, medium and small seedlings require 23°C, and large seedlings require 20°C. During flower forcing, daytime requires 20~24°C, nighttime 17~20°C; after the first flower, daytime 25~28°C, nighttime temperature 20~22°C. When the temperature is low, use a heater to warm; when the temperature is high, use a fan-water curtain to cool.

3. Humidity. During the vegetative growth stage, humidity is best above 90%; during the flower forcing treatment stage, humidity requires 70~80%; after flowering, humidity requires only 50%. Humidity can be regulated by measures such as water curtain ventilation and spraying the ground space with water.

4. Irrigation. The aerial roots of Phalaenopsis have a strong absorbing capacity and can absorb oxygen, nutrients, water, etc. Too much water will cause suffocation and root death. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be watered with a fine stream when the medium is dry, and during operation, water should as much as possible not remain in leaf depressions or on growth points to prevent mildew or infection. Water until water overflows from the bottom hole of the soft pot.[1] Phalaenopsis has important requirements for water quality, especially the two indicators of total hardness and iron content: total hardness below 50mg/L, iron content below 0.1mg/L. Tap water can be left to stand for 1~2 days before use. When watering, pay attention to alternating dry and wet; water again after the plant has dried, and never keep it in a constantly moist state. The water temperature should remain consistent with the seedling's growing environment temperature. In summer, the earlier in the morning the watering, the better; in winter, watering after 10 a.m. is most suitable. Before and after watering and during watering, check whether the orchid plant is dry or wet. If after normal watering some orchid plants still appear dry and water-deficient with soft, drooping leaves, measures must be taken to increase air humidity, and never heavily water every day.

Available irrigation methods for Phalaenopsis include: ① using drip irrigation lines. ② using fixed nozzles to irrigate from above downward. ③ manual irrigation. ⑤ combining the above methods.

Phalaenopsis leaves can easily absorb fertilizer such as urea from the leaf surface during foliar fertilization. Porous media are very important for the roots; despite the negative capillary effect, their advantages are greater. In the early growth stage, irrigation using sprinkler irrigation or irrigation arms is very useful for the crop. During the flowering stage, to avoid watering causing gray mold on the petals, using drip irrigation lines is better. When the flower stalk already has many flowers, watering from above easily causes the flower stalk to break.

Irrigation water must not contain chemical components or visible microorganisms. The sodium and chloride ions contained in the water must not exceed 100mg/l, and bicarbonate must not be excessive. If there is no good water source, then reverse osmosis treated water must be used. The amount of watering is related to climate, medium, and plant age. In the environment of Western Europe, the irrigation amount is approximately as follows: once every 7~10 days in winter, once every 5~7 days in summer. During the growth period, the water temperature needs to be 18~20°C to avoid root damage.

During the growth period and the first month after moving to a large pot, water must be applied from above, which not only reliably maintains sufficient moisture in the medium but also avoids salinization at the top layer of the medium. After the roots develop soundly, a drip irrigation system can be used instead. At least once a year, water must be applied from above to rinse the medium.

5. Fertilization. During the peak growth season, appropriately increase water and fertilizer; fertilizer water should be dilute rather than concentrated, with small amounts applied frequently. Do not fertilize when the temperature is above 32°C or below 15°C. Root fertilizer and foliar topdressing should be applied alternately. Before July, to promote growth, apply once a month a general compound fertilizer with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium at a ratio of 1:1:1, diluted to a 2000-fold solution for root irrigation; in August, apply liquid fertilizer once every 15 days; after September, apply 0.1% monopotassium phosphate solution as foliar fertilizer; after October, promote flower bud formation by controlling fertilizer and reducing water. During this period, mainly apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as foliar topdressing, appropriately apply trace fertilizers such as boron, zinc, and iron, and also use 0.1% Huabao No. 3.

For fertilizing Phalaenopsis, compound fertilizers can be used or nitrogen fertilizer can be applied directly. Fertilizer application varies by variety. If a base fertilizer is used, the base fertilizer must contain a mixture of Dolokal (L3-4kg/) and PG, with a pH range of 5.2~6.2 and an EC range of 0.8~1.2mS/cm. If nitrogen fertilizer is too high, it will cause excessive leaf growth. If the EC value is too high, the roots will die. If too low, the plant lacks trace elements. The best way to measure EC is to collect the water drained from the bottom after irrigation. Exceeding 1.5mS/cm means the medium in the pot has become salinized. Usually barrel-red spots form on the roots, and at this time they need to be rinsed with clean water or water of low EC. During the vegetative growth stage of Phalaenopsis, use 2:1:2 fertilizer; medium and small seedlings require a fertilizer concentration of 3000~7000 times, and large seedlings require a fertilizer concentration of 3000~5000 times. Starting one month into the flowering period, apply 1:5:2 flowering fertilizer at a concentration of 3000~7000 times, and stop fertilizing after the first flower.

There are two common fertilization methods for Phalaenopsis: ① apply dilute fertilizer frequently; do not apply under poor climate conditions, and do not apply when the root zone is too wet. ② When applying fertilizer water, maintain air convection to prevent the root zone from being soaked too long and causing suffocation. If water droplets still remain on the leaves around 4:00 p.m., forced ventilation should be used. ③ Orchid roots and leaves can both absorb fertilizer, so when fertilizing it is best to wet the orchid plant. ④ A small amount of adhesive can be added to water-soluble fertilizer to increase the fertilizer's adhesion.

6. Flower forcing. Plants with 5 mature leaves can be subjected to flower forcing. When the plant is sufficiently mature and has gone through a transition period, the flower stalk naturally emerges. Natural flower forcing in autumn allows sale in February or March of the following year. Flowering time can be controlled by regulating temperature and light. When all flower buds on the flower stalk except the last one have fully opened, it can be cut for sale. When the flower stalk is cut, it usually already has three flower buds. The second flower stalk emerges from the remaining flower buds, and begins from the terminal bud. However, forcing this new flower stalk requires a longer time, so whether to adopt this method of first natural flowering and then emerging a second flower stalk depends on the required flower stalk quality and sales plan. In addition to the first flower stalk, as long as the plant is healthy, a second time can produce double flower stalks, which can be sold as cut flowers. Therefore, an average of 2.5 flower stalks can be sold each year. After the flower stalk emerges, use hanging strings to keep it upright to avoid bending.

Commonly used flower forcing methods in the south. ① Using high-mountain cool climate for flower forcing cultivation; the high mountain altitude requirement is above 800m~1000m. ② Using air conditioning for cooling and flower forcing cultivation. The former flower forcing method has higher costs for transportation, packaging, and high-mountain management, and the seedlings are damaged more seriously, but the flowers emerge neatly, the flowers grow better, and the flower colors are vivid; the latter has low cost and less damage, but the flowers emerge unevenly. Where conditions permit, using high-mountain flower forcing in the south gives good commercial traits.

Pest and disease control of Phalaenopsis

Common pests and diseases of Phalaenopsis mainly include: soft rot, brown spot, anthracnose, sooty mold, viral disease, scale insects, red spider mites, etc. Mainly adopt the principle of prevention first, strengthen cultivation management measures, improve ventilation conditions, reasonably control placement density, and keep the environment clean. Spray insecticides and fungicides regularly. If diseased plants are found, promptly remove the source of infection, remove diseased leaves and residual parts, and for more severely affected plants, isolate or destroy them to prevent the spread and expansion of pests and diseases. In addition, suitable pesticides can be selected for control. During the disease period, 60% carbendazim or 80% thiophanate-methyl, etc. can be used; for scale insects and red spider mites, 40% omethoate or 80% dichlorvos 1000~1500-fold solution can be used for control.

Small tips for growing Phalaenopsis

1. Repotting: Phalaenopsis must be repotted once every year. Late spring and early summer is the most suitable period for repotting Phalaenopsis. Timely repotting can prevent medium decay from causing poor growth and even death of Phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis likes soil with strong aeration; decayed medium will make the soil impermeable.

2. Fertilization: the principle of fertilization should be to apply less fertilizer and dilute fertilizer. This is because it grows relatively quickly and its growth period is also relatively long. Phalaenopsis planted for one year or many years is repotted in late spring and early summer (May) each year. Newly repotted Phalaenopsis is in a recovery period, and the orchid plant should not be fertilized. After one month of recovery, the orchid plant begins normal growth. That is, from June to September, the orchid plant enters the growth period, and the orchid plant needs to be fertilized once a week.

3. Fertilizers suitable for Phalaenopsis: foliar fertilizer, monopotassium phosphate, farmyard manure fermented after adding water, special orchid fertilizer, etc. During the growth period, foliar fertilizer and monopotassium phosphate can be used alternately to fertilize Phalaenopsis. If these two fertilizers are not available, farmyard manure fermented after adding water can be chosen to irrigate with fertilizer water. If there is special orchid fertilizer at home, directly apply the special orchid fertilizer.

4. Fertilization precautions in spring and summer: in summer the temperature is relatively high, so fertilizing the orchid plant should be stopped. And in autumn, the growth rate of Phalaenopsis begins to slow down, so the frequency of fertilization should also be reduced. At this time, if the orchid plant is fertilized frequently, it will affect flower bud formation, making it difficult to bloom.

Care methods for Phalaenopsis. How to grow Phalaenopsis? How to grow Phalaenopsis?

1. Phalaenopsis likes a warm, humid, and ventilated environment, and is shade-tolerant. The potting medium should have good aeration and drainage. Osmunda fiber, sphagnum moss, charcoal, broken brick pieces, etc. are commonly used as the medium. Generally, repot after flowering in spring, and renew the cultivation material, otherwise dirt and moss easily accumulate, and pests and diseases are easily bred.

2. The suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 15-30°C, preferably with the daytime temperature maintained at around 27°C and nighttime at around 18°C. Flower bud differentiation requires a short period of low temperature around 10°C. Under hot and stuffy conditions, air circulation should be strengthened. If the summer temperature exceeds 35°C, growth and development will be inhibited. It only needs diffused light and cannot tolerate sun exposure; the required light intensity is about 40% of full sunlight, and light should be reduced by about 30% in summer.

3. Phalaenopsis needs sufficient water during the growing season, keeping the medium in the pot from drying out. In autumn, the amount of watering should be somewhat less, while the frequency should be somewhat higher. In winter, water once every 10 days to half a month. During flower bud growth, water demand increases, and the frequency of watering should be appropriately increased. When watering, avoid leaving water droplets on the leaves at night, which can cause pests and diseases or frost damage. It requires relatively high air humidity, with relative humidity of 70-80%, preferably maintained at around 80% during the day. In the hot summer, even higher humidity must be maintained, spraying 2-3 times a day to maintain high humidity and lower the temperature, while also maintaining good environmental ventilation.

4. Phalaenopsis must be fertilized regularly, once every two weeks during the growing season, and fertilization should be stopped during the dormant period and flowering period. Fertilizing during the flowering period easily causes flower and bud drop. Generally, in spring and summer, apply dilute liquid fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer, and in autumn and winter, apply liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

5. The propagation method of Phalaenopsis is to dig out small seedlings with 2-3 roots from mature large plants in spring and plant them separately. Pest and disease control mainly relies on prevention. You can spray 1000-fold solutions of carbendazim or chlorothalonil, thiophanate-methyl, Tuzet, etc. to kill fungi; spray Kewojing, etc. to control snails; spray dicofol, etc. to control red and white spider mites; spray pesticides containing EC components to control scale insects.

The above is the common care knowledge for Phalaenopsis introduced to everyone by Duorou Huapu. We hope it is helpful to everyone. Welcome to continue following Duorou Huapu to learn more related information.

Cultivation methods of Phalaenopsis. Watering methods for Phalaenopsis.

Phalaenopsis is a plant suited to indoor cultivation, with flowers shaped like butterflies, elegant and refined, and has the reputation among flowers of being the "queen of orchids." Moreover, the flowers of Phalaenopsis are the most ornamental, so many people are quite willing to grow this kind of plant at home. Of course, growing plants at home also requires methods and techniques; otherwise, their growth will not be as good as imagined. Exactly what are the cultivation methods of Phalaenopsis? What are the watering methods for Phalaenopsis? Let's learn about them together with the editor.

Cultivation methods of Phalaenopsis:

When it comes to the cultivation methods of Phalaenopsis, they are generally mainly considered from several aspects such as soil, temperature, watering, light, and fertilization. For the specific cultivation methods, let's look at the detailed introduction below:

1. Soil:

Materials such as pine needles, peanut shells, bark silk, and clay balls can be chosen as the medium for growing Phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis has relatively high requirements for soil and needs it to be breathable, rot-resistant, slightly acidic, and permeable. Preparing such soil requires certain skills. You can directly buy special orchid soil for Phalaenopsis at the flower market. For the pot for growing Phalaenopsis, you can choose a plastic pot or ceramic pot. Considering that Phalaenopsis likes a breathable growing environment, you can choose a porous shallow pot.

2. Temperature:

For indoor-grown Phalaenopsis, the cultivation temperature is more particular. The daytime temperature is best controlled between 25-28 degrees, and the nighttime temperature controlled at 18-20 degrees. Phalaenopsis originates from the subtropics, so a high-temperature, high-humidity environment is most suitable for its growth. When the temperature is relatively low, the growth of Phalaenopsis will be inhibited. When the temperature is below 15 degrees, the root system directly stops absorbing water, causing black spots on the leaves.

3. Watering:

High humidity is what Phalaenopsis loves most, but it absolutely must not have standing water. Avoid letting Phalaenopsis be in a water-deficient state, especially during its growth period; once water is frequently lacking, the leaves will turn yellow and it will be very difficult to recover. Usually, Phalaenopsis can be watered with a spray bottle, watering until water flows out from the bottom of the pot, and avoiding watering too much.

4. Light:

Phalaenopsis prefers shade, but still needs to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Proper light can promote Phalaenopsis flowering and make the flowers vivid and long-lasting. Generally, it is best to place it in a spot indoors with diffused light. Do not let direct sunlight hit it. If placed on an indoor windowsill, use a window screen to block part of the sunlight.

5. Fertilization:

The principle of fertilizing Phalaenopsis should be to apply less fertilizer and dilute fertilizer. This is because it grows relatively quickly and its growth period is also relatively long. Fertilize according to different months. Phalaenopsis planted for one year or many years is repotted in late spring and early summer (May) each year. Newly repotted Phalaenopsis is in a recovery period, and the orchid plant should not be fertilized. After one month of recovery, the orchid plant begins normal growth. That is, from June to September, the orchid plant enters the growth period, and the orchid plant needs to be fertilized once a week. Fertilizers suitable for Phalaenopsis include foliar fertilizer, monopotassium phosphate, farmyard manure fermented after adding water, special orchid fertilizer, etc. During the growth period, foliar fertilizer and monopotassium phosphate can be used alternately to fertilize Phalaenopsis. If these two fertilizers are not available, farmyard manure fermented after adding water can be chosen to irrigate with fertilizer water. If there is special orchid fertilizer at home, directly apply the special orchid fertilizer. Fertilization precautions in spring and summer: in summer the temperature is relatively high, so fertilizing the orchid plant should be stopped. And in autumn, the growth rate of Phalaenopsis begins to slow down, so the frequency of fertilization should also be reduced. At this time, if the orchid plant is fertilized frequently, it will affect flower bud formation, making it difficult to bloom.

6. Ventilation and shading:

The problem of root rot in Phalaenopsis may be caused by the lack of a ventilated environment. Phalaenopsis is delicate, and choosing a ventilated environment will be more conducive to its growth, while a stuffy, hot environment is also not suitable for growing Phalaenopsis. Especially in the summer in the south, attention should be paid to shading Phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid and by nature likes semi-shade. In winter when the temperature is low, use the midday time to ventilate it, but do not let the draft blow directly toward the orchid plant. In spring and autumn, pay attention to shielding the orchid from light.

The above is a brief introduction to the cultivation methods of Phalaenopsis. It is believed that after the above introduction, everyone will have a further understanding and knowledge of the cultivation methods of Phalaenopsis. Generally speaking, every step in growing Phalaenopsis is very important, but the key is watering. Everyone knows that Phalaenopsis likes moisture but fears standing water. During the growth period it cannot lack water. If water is lacking for a long time, the leaves will turn yellow and cannot be remedied. Of course, water also must not be applied too much. Let's look at the following introduction to the watering methods of Phalaenopsis:

Watering methods for Phalaenopsis:

1. Soil and water:

Phalaenopsis grown with pine needles will not have standing water. When watering, use a spray bottle to spray water until water flows out from the bottom of the pot. Frequently sprinkle water around the orchid pot to keep the air moist, but be careful not to let water accumulate in the heart of the orchid leaves, especially at night in winter, when spraying water on the leaves is prohibited.

2. Watering during the growth period:

Watering Phalaenopsis needs to be based on its growth and development stage. During new root elongation, water more; during flowering and bud formation, water more, but during the flowering period watering should be reduced so that too much water does not cause the flowers to wither early.

3. Watering during the dormant period:

Water less during the post-flowering dormant period. Generally, in spring and autumn, water once a day; in summer, water once each morning and evening; in winter, control watering, just keeping the potting soil moist.