A Detailed Guide to Cycad Propagation and Seedling Techniques and Potted Cultivation Methods
Cycads (sago palms) prefer a warm, hot and humid environment, are not cold-tolerant, grow very slowly, and have a lifespan of about 200 years. In the tropical and southern subtropical regions of southern China, trees over 10 years old bloom and set seed almost every year, while cycads cultivated in the Yangtze River basin and various northern regions often never bloom in their lifetime, or occasionally bloom and set seed. Cycads love light and love iron, and tolerate partial shade slightly. When planted in the open ground in the Shanghai area, warming measures such as wrapping with straw must be taken in winter. They prefer fertile, moist and slightly acidic soil, but can also tolerate drought. They grow slowly, and plants over 10 years old can bloom.
Propagation Methods for Cycads
Propagate by seeds and by division of suckers; collect mature seeds in autumn and sow them in a section of sandy loam with high temperature and full sun, sowing in furrows 6-10cm deep with 20-40cm between furrows, and 10-15cm between plants in hill sowing, covering with soil to a thickness equal to 2 times the diameter of the seed, pressing down lightly, covering with grass and watering to keep moist. After the seedlings emerge, remove the covering grass.
1. Propagation by division of suckers. Cut suckers from the trunk and plant them in sandy loam, with 20-30cm between rows and 10-15cm between plants, covering with 6-8cm of soil, and shading them; they root easily under semi-shade conditions.
2. Propagation by cutting and transplanting the trunk. Cut the trunk into segments of about 10cm, bury them in sandy soil, cover with 4-6cm of soil, and water frequently to keep moist; once new buds sprout from the trunk sections, they can be divided and planted.
3. Propagation by sowing. Seeds are collected in late autumn and sown as soon as collected, or stored in sand and sown in hills the following spring; because the seed coat is thick and hard and sprouting is slow, germination generally occurs after 4-6 months; the temperature must be kept above 15 degrees, and the soil cover should be deeper, about 3 cm; at a high temperature of 30-33°C, germination takes about 2 weeks; the seedlings grow slowly, and the seedlings need 2 to 4 years before they can be transplanted.
Cultivation Methods for Cycads
1. Growing medium. The best is fertile sandy loam. The mixing ratio is one part loam, 1 part composted humus soil, and 1 part coal ash, mixed thoroughly. Such soil is loose and fertile, drains and aerates well, and is very suitable for cycad growth.
2. Pruning. Once the stem has grown to a height of 50 cm, the old leaves should be cut off in spring, and thereafter one ring should be cut each year, or at least once every 3 years. If the plant is still small and its spread is not ideal, all the leaves can be cut off; this will not affect the angle at which new leaves emerge and will make the plant more perfect. When pruning, cut as close to the base of the leaf stalk as possible, so that the stem is neat and attractive.
3. Repotting. Potted cycads should be repotted, at least once every 5 years. When repotting, bone meal and other phosphorus fertilizers can be mixed into the potting soil, and the best time for repotting is when the temperature is around 15°C. At this time, for vigorously growing ones, some old roots should also be appropriately trimmed away to facilitate the timely growth of new roots.
Field Management of Cycads
After sowing, the soil must be kept constantly moist; after the seedlings emerge, pay attention to weeding and topdressing; after 2-3 years of cultivation, divide and plant once. Within 4-5 years after planting out, cultivate and weed 3 times a year, in April, June and October; topdress 2 times, in April and October, using human and livestock manure water or farmyard manure. After that, only cultivate once each in spring and autumn every year, and apply farmyard manure during the autumn cultivation.
Cycads prefer a slightly moist soil environment. Because they grow very slowly, be sure to note that the amount of watering should not be too large, otherwise it is unfavorable for the root system to carry out normal physiological activities. From March to September each year, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer to the plant once a week, which can effectively promote leaf growth. Keep the environment as ventilated as possible, otherwise the plant is prone to scale insects. Cycads prefer warmth and dread severe cold; their optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5°C.
Pest and Disease Control for Cycads
1. Leaf spot: a fungal disease. After the leaves are infected, small light brown spots appear first, then spread into nearly circular or irregular shapes with a diameter of 1 mm to 5 mm; the center of the lesion is dark brown to grayish white, the edge is reddish brown, and black dots form on the lesion. Because the lesions join together, they form a segment of spots, causing the leaves to wither and break apart. In hot and rainy weather, this disease spreads easily. For prevention and control, the growing medium should be slightly acidic sandy soil, water more with clean water in summer, and promptly remove diseased and old leaves. In the early stage of the disease, spray Bordeaux mixture, or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 600 times dilution, or 50% thiophanate wettable powder at 800 to 1000 times dilution, or potassium permanganate at 1000 times dilution, about once every 10 days, for a good effect.
2. Scale insects: when cultivated and maintained on a balcony, ventilation and light transmission are not good enough, and the leaves are often easily damaged by scale insects. In the early stage of the infestation, there are the following control methods:
① Mix white liquor with water at a ratio of 1:2, and water the surface soil of the pot thoroughly, once every half a month, four times in a row for results.
② Repeatedly wipe the affected leaves gently with alcohol, which can kill adult and larval insects.
③ Soak a cotton ball in rice vinegar and gently wipe the affected leaves; the scale insects can be wiped off and killed, and the leaves can also turn green and glossy again.
Potted Cultivation Techniques for Cycads
In early spring, while repotting, cut off the suckers (also called offsets) growing from the side of the base of the mother plant, and after the cut surface dries slightly, plant them in pots. You can also buy cycad trunks at flower markets in spring for potting.
For the potting soil, mix leaf mold or peat soil with about 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer, or mix 4 parts leaf mold, 4 parts garden soil and 2 parts river sand. Place broken tile pieces at the bottom of the pot to aid drainage. Plant the suckers shallowly in a clay pot, water thoroughly, and place in semi-shade; after they survive, gradually expose them to sunlight.
After the temperature rises to 20 degrees in early summer, the new buds begin to grow and put out new leaves, indicating that the roots below have already grown; they must not be kept in semi-shade, otherwise the new leaves will become thin and long. Put out new leaves, indicating that the roots below have already grown; they must not be kept in semi-shade, otherwise the new leaves will become thin and long, affecting their ornamental value; they should be placed in a well-ventilated spot with ample sunlight. During the growth period, watering should be sufficient; when the new leaves are growing vigorously, the potting soil should be kept constantly moist, and water should be sprayed in the morning and evening to keep the leaves fresh. Note that water must not accumulate in the pot, otherwise it will cause root and stem rot; but if the potting soil is too dry, the leaves will turn yellow and wither.
When caring for cycads, the soil moisture should be kept at around 60%, and watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and withholding when wet. In spring and summer, when the leaves grow vigorously, especially in the hot and dry climate of summer, water more, once in the morning and once in the evening, and spray the leaf surface to keep the leaves fresh and emerald green. After autumn begins, water once every 2-5 days. During the growth period, apply compound fertilizer or urea 1-2 times a month. Urea is best applied as a foliar fertilizer by spraying the leaves with a 0.2% aqueous solution; when applying foliar fertilizer, follow the principle of “small meals, more often.” Apply peanut bran once every year in early spring; peanut bran can be applied directly to the pot surface or buried in the potting soil without being composted in water. The water used to rinse rice before cooking every day at home, as long as it is not contaminated with oil, can be collected in a bucket or basin and used the next day as a liquid fertilizer for watering, and it has a certain fertilizing effect.
In summer, water 1-2 times a day. After autumn, water should be controlled appropriately, generally once every 3-4 days. In winter, the interval between waterings should be longer, water less, and the potting soil is better kept on the dry side. If it stays too wet, the roots rot easily and the leaves turn yellow and scorch. Fertilize during the growth period; apply once a month a 40% diluted decomposed soybean cake fertilizer with 0.5% ferrous sulfate added. You can also place rusty iron nails or iron sheets in the soil and let the iron gradually seep into the soil for the cycad to absorb, making the cycad leaves emerald green. In summer, avoid placing it in direct blazing sunlight; in winter, protect it from freezing and keep it warm, and it can overwinter safely above 0 degrees. For basal leaves that have withered and yellowed, appropriately trim away the old leaves to let it grow new leaves.
Cycad Pictures and Introduction
(2012-01-09 18:17:36)Tags: Cycad Pictures and Introduction
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Cycad Pictures and Introduction
English name: Cycas
Scientific name: Cycas revolutaFamily and genus: Cycadaceae, genus Cycas
Other names: Phoenix-tail banana, fire-avoiding tree, phoenix-tail pine, seedless date, thousand-year date, ten-thousand-year date, sea date, golden fruit, iron banana, Persian date, foreign date, fire banana, foreign bananaThe cycad gets its name because its trunk is as hard as wrought iron and it likes fertilizers containing iron. In addition, because its branches and leaves resemble a phoenix tail and its trunk resembles the trunk of a banana or pine, it is also called phoenix-tail banana. The cycad is an evergreen plant. Its stems are all rather thick and stout, and the plant height can reach 8 m. The flowering period is in July-August. It is dioecious; the male flowers are on the inner side of the leaves, while the female flowers are at the top of the stem. It likes strong sunlight and a warm, dry environment. It requires fertile, sandy, slightly acidic soil with good permeability. Its cold tolerance is poor, and it is mostly planted in the south.
Landscape use: a beautiful ornamental plant, suitable for planting as a solitary specimen in lawns, such as in parks and other places, with a touch of tropical flavorPropagation by Division of Suckers
1. Timing of division: it can be done when growth stops in winter. It can also be done from January to February in early spring through early summer.
2. Taking the suckers: cycads often sprout suckers at the base of the stem and on the trunk; choose plump ones over 3 years old or with 4 to 5 leaves as propagation material. This is because such suckers have a high degree of lignification, contain more nutrients, and have strong adaptability, and they root and survive easily. Never choose suckers that are too tender, otherwise they rot easily. The method of taking the suckers is: use a sharp small knife to cut the sucker away from the base where it connects to the mother plant. When cutting, damage the stem bark as little as possible. After the cut surface dries slightly, plant it in a pot containing humus soil with a high coarse sand content, place it in semi-shade for maintenance, and keep the temperature at 27-30°C; it survives easily. For those that have already rooted, they can be directly planted into a growing medium rich in humus, well drained, and highly permeable for management; for those that have not rooted, place them in a cool, ventilated place to dry for 2 to 3 days, and after the cut surface dries slightly, carry out root promotion treatment. You can also cut the stem into pieces 15-20 cm long and bury them in sandy loam to make new buds grow around them, and then divide and plant them for cultivation.3. Root promotion: plant in plain sand to a depth of 1/2 the height of the sucker. To prevent the wound from rotting, before planting, coat the wound with plant ash, charcoal powder or sulfur powder. After planting, water once, then place it indoors in a bright spot for maintenance. New roots sprout in about 2 months, and 1 to 2 new leaves are put out in 3 to 4 months.
4. Transplanting: when the new leaves have fully unfolded, move them into growing medium for management. The growing medium is made up of 45% leaf mold, 20% mycorrhizal soil, 30% river sand and 5% calcium-magnesium phosphate fertilizer. Never use heavy clay soil as the growing medium, otherwise poor drainage will cause the roots to rot.
5. Management: in the warm areas of southern China, they can be planted in the open ground in courtyards. In colder places, they should be wrapped in straw in winter for protection. In the Yangtze River basin and North China, cycads are mostly potted; the bottom of the cultivation pot should be lined with plenty of tile pieces to aid drainage, and it should be planted in fertile loam and firmed in. When growth is vigorous in spring and summer, more watering is needed; during the high-temperature period in summer, the leaves should also be sprayed with water in the morning and evening to keep them emerald green and fresh. Apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once a month. After autumn begins, watering should be controlled; in daily management, master the right amount of watering, because too much water easily causes root rot. Cycads grow slowly, putting out only one rosette of leaves each year; when the new leaves unfold and grow, the lower old leaves should be appropriately cut away to maintain a neat and elegantly antique posture.Points to Note
I. Growing Medium and Repotting
Cycads are suited to growing in fertile, slightly acidic sandy soil. Technical staff of Fujian Huibaichuan Horticulture introduce that the growing medium can be prepared with 1 part coarse sand and 2 parts garden soil, or 3 parts leaf mold and 1 part fine gravel, or 2 parts sandy soil and 1 part leaf mold, with a small amount of 0.5% ferrous sulfate added (used as a pH adjuster). Cycads are iron-loving plants; when preparing the growing medium, a small amount of iron filings can be mixed in, or in early spring iron filings can be placed on the potting soil or buried in the pot, and the iron gradually seeps in and is absorbed. You can also use 0.5% ferrous sulfate to supplement iron, making the leaves firm and emerald green. Repotting is carried out before budding in early spring; small pots are repotted once every 1 to 2 years, and large pots once every 3 to 4 years. When repotting, you can change the soil without changing the pot, or change both the soil and the pot. Generally, only after 2 to 3 years, when the seedling is somewhat larger, are cycads moved to a larger pot for planting. When repotting, first tap the edge of the flower pot with your hand, then grasp the leaves with your hand and tip the pot sideways to take out the plant with the soil; be careful not to break the leaves. Peel away the soil at the edge of the root ball and the top, keep one third of the old soil, and appropriately prune old roots, fibrous roots and old leaves; generally, the emerald green and upright leaves do not need pruning. Then place it in the pot and put new soil into the gaps, firming it down. Plenty of tile pieces should be placed at the bottom of the pot to aid drainage. After repotting, water thoroughly to settle the roots, wetting all the potting soil thoroughly until water comes out of the bottom of the pot, and place it in a cool spot on the balcony; after eight or ten days, move it into the sunlight.II. Watering and Fertilizing
When caring for cycads, the soil moisture should be kept at around 60%, and watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and withholding when wet. According to the technical guidance provided by Fujian Huibaichuan Horticulture, in spring and summer when the leaves grow vigorously, especially in the hot and dry climate of summer, water more, once in the morning and once in the evening, and spray the leaf surface to keep the leaves fresh and emerald green. After autumn begins, water once every 2 to 5 days. During the growth period, apply compound fertilizer or urea 1 to 2 times a month. Urea is best applied as a foliar fertilizer by spraying the leaves with a 0.2% aqueous solution; when applying foliar fertilizer, follow the principle of “small meals, more often.” Apply peanut bran once every year in early spring; peanut bran can be applied directly to the pot surface or buried in the potting soil without being composted in water. The water used to rinse rice before cooking every day at home, as long as it is not contaminated with oil, can be collected in a bucket or basin and used the next day as a liquid fertilizer for watering, and it has a certain fertilizing effect.III. Pruning and Placement
Cycads prefer a warm, humid climate, love sunlight, and also tolerate shade. They grow relatively slowly, putting out only 1 rosette of leaves each year; only after the new leaves have unfolded and matured should the lower old leaves be cut away, keeping 2 to 3 rosettes of leaves, and they do not need frequent pruning. Even when transplanting into pots or repotting, too much pruning is unnecessary. When leaves are damaged by pests and diseases, or yellow and dry up due to harsh natural conditions, they should be promptly cut off. Different balcony orientations have different light intensity, which affects cycad growth differently. A balcony facing south is most suitable for placing potted plants; balconies facing north and east can also have potted plants placed on them; a balcony facing west gets strong afternoon sun in summer, which is hot and dry, and easily causes leaf scorch and yellowing in cycads, so it is not suitable for placing potted plants. In hot and dry summer weather, the balcony floor should be watered several times a day to lower the temperature and increase air humidity. Cycads should not be placed in living room halls for too long; lacking light, the leaves become thin and long and lose their green color. In the cold, gloomy winter, they can be placed in the hall for a longer time; when the sun shines
Morphological Characteristics
Evergreen tree, up to 20 m tall. The stem is cylindrical and unbranched. After the growing point is damaged, clustered buds can sprout below the wound, forming a multi-headed appearance. The stem is covered with persistent leaf bases and leaf scars, appearing scale-like. The leaves emerge from the top of the stem, are pinnately compound, and large. The leaflets are linear, rolled inward when young, later spreading upward at an angle, slightly forming a "V" shape, with the edges revolute downward, thickly leathery, hard, and glossy, with a sharp-pointed tip, and the leaf underside densely covered with rusty-colored hairs, with the basal leaflets becoming spine-like. Dioecious, flowering in June-August; the male strobilus is cylindrical, yellow, densely covered with yellow-brown hairs, standing upright at the top of the stem; the female strobilus is oblate, with the upper part pinnately divided, and 2-4 naked ovules borne on both sides below it. The seeds mature in October; the seeds are large, ovate and slightly flattened, reddish brown or orange-red when ripe.
Growth Habits
It loves light and tolerates partial shade slightly. It loves warmth and is not very cold-tolerant; when planted in the open ground in the Shanghai area, warming measures such as wrapping with straw must be taken in winter. It prefers fertile, moist and slightly acidic soil, but can also tolerate drought. It grows slowly, and plants over 10 years old can bloom.
Cycads grow slowly and have a lifespan of more than 200 years, putting out one rosette of new leaves from the top of the stem each year. Potted cycads bloom irregularly and their blooming is not easy to see, hence the saying "a thousand-year cycad blooms," meaning it blooms rarely. If cultivated properly, old trees 15-20 years old can also bloom once every several years; in the south, when the growing environment is good, blooming can be seen every year, and the flowering period can last as long as 1 month. Generally, what blooms from June to August is the male flower, and what blooms from October to November is the female flower. They are dioecious, and the flowering periods are not synchronized, so it is not easy to obtain seeds in the north.
Geographical Distribution
There are 17 species of Cycas plants worldwide, distributed in eastern and southeastern Asia, Oceania, Madagascar and other tropical and subtropical regions. China has 8 species, produced in Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Hainan, Fujian, Guangxi, Yunnan, Sichuan and other provinces and regions. Examples include Cycas rumphii, Cycas hainanensis, Cycas siamensis, Cycas taiwaniana, Cycas pectinata, Cycas szechuanensis, Cycas micholitzii, and others.
Cultivation Techniques
Home Cultivation
For home cultivation of cycads, it is generally best not to buy too large a plant; for the flower pot, usually choose a medium-sized pot with a diameter of 20-30 cm. Technical staff of Fujian Huibaichuan Horticulture introduce that before planting the cycad, place 2 cm of coarse sand or crushed stone at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer; the growing medium should be mixed with 4 parts leaf mold, 3 parts garden soil, 1 part bone meal, 2 parts river sand, and 200 grams of rusty iron filings, using decomposed soybean cake fertilizer as base fertilizer. After planting, water thoroughly and place in a cool spot for half a month, then move it to a spot facing north wind and sun for maintenance. Keep the potting soil constantly moist, but not too wet; in April-May, generally water once every 2 days. Cycads are not tolerant of waterlogging; after rain, be sure to drain promptly. From June to August they grow relatively fast; at this time the temperature rises and evaporation is high, so the amount of watering can be appropriately increased, and except on rainy days, water once a day. After September, control watering and follow the principle of "alternating dry and wet." During the growing season, topdress with liquid fertilizer once every 15-20 days. Stop fertilizing after autumn begins.
Cycads love sunlight; in spring and autumn, during the seedling stage it is best to keep them in direct sunlight (but not blazing sun) for maintenance, and after the new leaves have grown, move them indoors for viewing. When the winter temperature is below 0 degrees, they should be moved indoors to overwinter. Keep the indoor temperature at 5-10 degrees. In April of the following year, move them outdoors, and repot once every 2-3 years. During the growth of the cycad, when the main trunk reaches 40-50 cm in height and the new leaves have grown, one ring of the lower withered, weak and yellow leaves should be cut away, or this should be done at least once every two years, to keep the tree shape neat and full.
Under normal development, cycads can produce 2 rosettes of new leaves each spring. If you find that the plant has not produced new leaves for 2-3 years or that the leaves have turned yellow and dried up, promptly check whether the root system has rotted. If the root system has rotted, remove the rotted parts, move it indoors and plant it in plain sand, control watering, and after some time it can recover and continue growing.
Some cycad leaves are curled because they were bent into shape artificially with wire.
Potted cycads can be brought outdoors in April-May, and repotted with fresh soil every 2-3 years; the best potting medium is fertile, loose sandy loam. When repotting, line the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces and coarse gravel to make a good drainage layer, and apply 2-3 pieces of horse hoof slices and cake fertilizer as base fertilizer. In the vigorous summer growth period, apply dilute decomposed cake fertilizer water, 1-2 times a month is enough; if "black alum water" (ferrous sulfate) is added to the topdressing, the leaf color can become deep green and glossy. Stop fertilizing after autumn begins.
Regarding watering potted cycads: for newly potted cycads, the potting soil should not be excessively moist; keep the potting soil neither dry nor wet, maintaining appropriate dryness, to avoid root rot. After the new leaves have spread out, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased; summer is the vigorous growth season, so it can be a little more, watering once a day; after autumn begins, growth gradually slows, and attention should also be paid to controlling the amount of watering; in the rainy season, be sure to avoid water accumulating in the pot. After the new leaves have spread out, the withered, weak and yellow leaves should be cut away to keep the plant full and graceful. Open-ground planting
It is advisable to dig a large pit, replace the soil, and apply garbage fertilizer, poultry and livestock manure, etc. as base fertilizer; generally no artificial watering is needed, and little fertilizer is applied. In the three seasons of vigorous growth - spring, summer and early autumn - ensure the water supply, but do not water too much, and even more do not let water accumulate. In the south, it can overwinter safely as long as the winter temperature is not below 2°C; adult trees must maintain a temperature above 12°C to overwinter and bloom normally.
Cycads do not have very high fertilizer requirements; it is enough to apply sufficient slow-release base fertilizer and ensure a sufficient phosphorus and potassium content in the topdressing, especially potassium; the best ratio of nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium is 1:2. At the same time, topdress once a year with 0.5% ferrous sulfate.
Seedling Techniques
1. Commonly propagated by sowing and by division of suckers. The seeds are large and thick-coated; sowing is best done as soon as the seeds are collected, or the collected seeds can be stored in wet sand and sown in the following spring. For sowing, use the pot hill-sowing method, covering with 2cm of soil; at a high temperature of 30 to 33 degrees, they can germinate in two weeks. The seedlings need 2-4 years of cultivation before they can be transplanted. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water at about 50°C in a thermos for 12 hours, pour them out and spread them for 1 hour, then change to water of the same temperature with 0.1% ferrous sulfate and potassium dihydrogen phosphate added, put them back into the thermos and soak for 12 hours, and then they are ready for sowing.
2. Division of suckers is best done in early spring, March-April, when repotting; dig out the suckers beside the mother plant. The formation of suckers generally takes 2-3 years. When cutting, damage the stem bark as little as possible; after cutting, immediately dip them in 1500 times indolebutyric acid (IBA) for 2 hours, take them out and dry them in the shade, then plant them in a pot filled with half coarse sand and half nutrient soil, place them in semi-shade for maintenance, and keep the temperature at 27-30°C; they survive very easily.
3. Cycad stem segments can also be used for propagation. Saw them into stem segments about 10cm long, divide them into 4, 6 or 8 pieces depending on the diameter, scrape out the pith, then disinfect with 1500 times carbendazim solution; after drying in the shade, soak in 1500 times indolebutyric acid (IBA) for 2 hours, take them out and dry them in the shade, then bury them in clean sandy soil to a depth of about 3cm, with the side that has bark or the side that originally faced upward facing up, keep the soil temperature at around 25°C, cover with glass or film to maintain humidity, and only after about 2-3 months will the latent buds on the stem segments sprout and grow suckers; when the suckers have grown to 2-3cm, take them out and pot them in plain sandy soil to promote root growth.
Pest and Disease Control
1. When it is hot, dry and poorly ventilated, the leaves are easily harmed by scale insects; for control, they can be brushed off with a writing brush, or promptly sprayed with 50% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate, or 50% monocrotophos, or 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable oil at 1000 times dilution.
2. When it is hot and the air humidity is high, white spot disease and sooty mold easily occur; use 50% carbendazim wettable powder or 70% thiophanate wettable powder diluted 1000 times with water, and spray the diseased plants in the early morning.
Cultivation of Potted Flowers on Home Balconies in March
It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor for all to live on the ground floor with a good small environment for growing flowers; more often, people grow some strongly resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.In March, before the potted flowers are brought outdoors, you can first set up the shelving racks on the balcony for placing the potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging the shade net in summer, so that once the potted flowers are brought out and encounter overly intense sunlight, the shading measures can be quickly put in place.
In March, you should also prepare the growing medium for repotting and stock up on various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.
Cultivation of Potted Flowers on Home Balconies in March
I.Flower Species Suitable for Balcony Planting
Among the ornamental plants suitable for growing on balconies, one category is the relatively drought-tolerant plant species: their surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is thick and succulent, containing more sap, or the leaves are smaller, transformed into needle-like shapes, with very little transpiration consuming water, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as the cycad, cactus and succulent types (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus peruvianus monstrose, Crassula lycopodioides, Echinocactus grusonii, Trichocereus macrogonus, Astrophytum ornatum, Aporocactus flagelliformis, and coral tree), Portulacaria afra, jade plant, jewel leaf plant, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum (orchid cactus), leaf cactus, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, and others. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris, Spathiphyllum, Guangdong evergreen, spider plant, and others; these flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are quite suitable for balcony planting.
Cultivation of Potted Flowers on Home Balconies in March
There is another category of flower species that are relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures; they are also suitable for balcony potting (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, Chinese rose, banyan, cymbidium, small-leaf privet, Agave, Hippeastrum, Chinese plum, oak wood, Chinese elm, trident maple, water poplar, black pine, juniper, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, holly grape, holly, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, moss rose, and others.
In addition, jasmine, pearl orchid, five-needle pine, Aglaia odorata, one-leaf orchid, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, camellia, Schefflera octophylla, Norfolk Island pine, etc., can also be used as potted plants on somewhat lower-level balconies, but water and shade management should be strengthened.
Cultivation of Potted Flowers on Home Balconies in March
II.Propagation of Balcony Potted Flowers
For herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, garden balsam, petunia, and others, shallow-pot sowing and seedling raising can be carried out at this time.
If a small amount of asparagus fern or clivia seeds has been collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches around 15°C, move them to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.
Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, jewel leaf plant, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula lycopodioides, etc., can be propagated by cuttings at this time indoors using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and after spring returns and the weather warms, move them to the balcony.
Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and in a bright spot by an indoor windowsill, propagate by cuttings gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, dwarf pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina domestica, Daphne odora, and Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth must be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.
On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine, Japanese black pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging to retain moisture must be carried out, otherwise they do not easily survive.
Cultivation of Potted Flowers on Home Balconies in March
III.Management of Balcony Potted Flowers
1.Cold Protection
Most of the ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures for warmth, cold protection, ventilation and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For the relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil from freezing; if the potting soil freezes, it easily causes frost heaving of the potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plant that year, but in severe cases cause the plant to die. You can take measures such as building a shed on the spot for protection, or moving them indoors or into a shed for cold protection.
2.Pruning
For tree stumps such as wintersweet, holly grape, holly, black pine, five-needle pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, trident maple, Chinese elm, Chinese plum, water poplar, small-leaf privet, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need styling can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be changed; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate spraying. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape; carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected with pests and diseases, and destroy them; for dry, dead cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime-sulfur mixture, etc. as antiseptic treatment.
3.Preparatory Facilities
If conditions permit, you can also build a small water pool on the balcony and set up a hard board on top (precast reinforced concrete), using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool; in summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchid types, Monstera deliciosa, green giant, small angel, Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, etc. The stored water is quite ideal for watering flowers.