How to Grow and Care for Daffodils (Narcissus) as Potted Plants at Home: Cultivation Methods and Precautions
Chinese narcissus (Narcissus tazetta var. chinensis) is one of the important varieties of the widely cultivated Narcissus tazetta, mainly concentrated along the southeastern coast of China. Narcissus prefers warm, humid conditions and requires good drainage. Narcissus originated in Jiangling, Hubei. It has been cultivated in China for over a thousand years and is one of China's traditional famous flowers.
Chinese narcissus (Narcissus tazetta var. chinensis) is one of the important varieties of the widely cultivated Narcissus tazetta, mainly concentrated along the southeastern coast of China. Narcissus prefers warm, humid conditions and requires good drainage. Narcissus originated in Jiangling, Hubei. It has been cultivated in China for over a thousand years and is one of China's traditional famous flowers.
Selecting Bulbs
The quality of the narcissus bulb determines how many flowers will bloom and whether the fragrance will be rich. To grow a good pot of narcissus, you must start with selecting good narcissus bulbs. When selecting narcissus bulbs, you can evaluate them from four aspects: shape, color, pressing, and packaging grade.
1. Shape: High-quality narcissus bulbs are generally large, flat in shape, hard in texture, with wide spacing between the longitudinal vein stripes on the skin, a tightly stretched inner membrane, bright skin color, a broad and thick root plate, and symmetrically arranged small offset bulbs beside the main bulb.
2. Color: From the outside, bulbs that are dark brown, with intact outer membrane, bright luster, and no signs of rot or pest damage are considered premium.
3. Pressing: Pressing is the main method for selecting and identifying how many flower scapes a narcissus has. You can pinch the bulb between your thumb and index finger and press with slight force. If the contour feels columnar, springy, and relatively firm, those are flower scapes; if it feels soft, flat in contour, and less elastic, those are mostly leaf buds.
4. Packaging grade: Narcissus bulbs are generally packaged in bamboo baskets of the same size, with four packaging specifications of 20, 30, 40, and 50 bulbs per basket, commonly known as 20-grade, 30-grade, 40-grade, and 50-grade. The fewer the number per basket, the larger the individual bulbs. For example, with the 20-grade at 20 bulbs per basket, each bulb can reach 12 cm in diameter, making it first-class; with the 30-grade, the individual bulbs are slightly smaller than the 20-grade. For the above two grades of narcissus bulbs, each bulb can generally produce 4-7 or more flower scapes, making them premium. The 40-grade and 50-grade bulbs are much smaller, generally producing only 1-3 flower scapes.
Sprouting Dormant Bulbs
1. Peeling: Remove the brown outer skin layer of the bulb.
2. Cutting the bulb: On the upper half of the bulb, make horizontal cuts downward at the left and right 1/3 positions, then cut upward to remove 2-3 layers of scales. At the same time, make a vertical cut downward on both the left and right sides of the bud at the center, deep to the middle of the bulb. During the operation, avoid damaging the tender buds, and carefully remove old roots and soil from the bottom.
3. Soaking the bulb: Soak the cut bulbs in clean water for 1-2 days, then rinse off the gel-like liquid that flows out from inside the bulb.
4. Sprouting: The soaked bulbs need to be placed in sunlight for exposure. It is best to place them in a container and cover with a layer of rice chaff. Water once daily to keep the rice chaff warm and moist. At this time, be careful to protect against cold and excessive light; appropriate covering can be used. After one week, new shoots emerge, and then they can receive full sunlight. After about 50 days, the flower heads emerge, and the narcissus bulbs can be taken out, rinsed clean, and transplanted into a water basin for cultivation.
Cultivation Methods
Narcissus prefers sunlight and warmth, requires high air humidity, is not very cold-tolerant, and fears heat. During the vegetative growth period, it needs moist but not waterlogged sandy soil. Unlike other perennial herbaceous flowers, narcissus has the characteristics of beginning growth in autumn, blooming in winter, storing nutrients in spring, and going dormant in summer. There are two cultivation methods for narcissus: water culture and soil culture.
1. Water Culture Method for Narcissus
The water culture method involves using a shallow basin with water. Place the sprouted narcissus upright in a shallow narcissus basin, add water to submerge one-third of the bulb. Quartz sand, pebbles, etc. can be used in the basin to stabilize the bulb.
① During the day, the narcissus basin should be placed in a sunny location; at night, move it indoors and pour out the water from the basin to control leaf legginess. The next morning, add fresh water, being careful not to change the direction of the bulb. When first potted, narcissus can be given fresh water daily, then every 2-3 days, and after flower buds form, once a week. Narcissus grows well at 10-15°C, blooms in about 45 days, and the flowering period can last over a month.
② During the water culture period, narcissus especially needs sufficient light. Place it in a sunny spot during the day and under lamplight at night. This prevents leggy stems and leaves, making the narcissus leaves short, wide, thick, and sturdy, with deep green color and rich fragrance when blooming. Water-cultured narcissus generally does not need fertilizing, but if conditions permit, applying a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer during the flowering period can make the flowers bloom even better.
③ Growing narcissus requires no flower fertilizer at all; clean water alone is sufficient. To make the narcissus grow vigorously, take it to the balcony for sunlight during the day. If you want to delay the flowering period, you can lower the water temperature, or pour out all the water in the evening and add fresh water the next morning. In addition, if plump flower buds are not visible 10 days before the holiday, you can use the method of warming the water to force flowering; the water temperature should be close to body temperature.
As long as you master the conditions for narcissus care, you can make "flowers bloom according to your wishes"; otherwise, flowering will be delayed, or the plant will only grow leaves without blooming.
2. Soil Culture Method for Narcissus
① The soil culture method is less commonly used in households; it involves cultivating narcissus using the methods for most moist-soil flowers. In mid-to-late October, plant large bulbs in a small flower pot with drainage holes using fertile sandy soil, burying half and leaving half exposed. A layer of fine sand should be placed underneath the bulb beforehand to facilitate drainage. Place the pot in a sunny indoor location with suitable temperature. 4 to 12°C is ideal; temperatures too low can cause frost damage, while temperatures too high combined with insufficient light can cause leggy growth, weak plants, short flowering time, and reduced ornamental value. If light and temperature requirements are met during management, the leaves will be broad and thick, and the flower stems sturdy, resulting in larger flowers and lasting fragrance. For soil-cultured narcissus, apply liquid fertilizer two to three times before flowering.
② Due to limited climatic conditions, narcissus cannot reproduce on its own. When cultivating narcissus, if there are no pest or disease problems, no spraying is needed. For winter water culture of narcissus, temperature, light, and water supply are the three key factors determining whether narcissus will bloom. Narcissus growth requires sufficient sunlight; suitable temperature of 12°C-15°C; and clean water.
Preventing "Blind Flowers"
The so-called "blind flowers" refers to the phenomenon during water culture where the flower scape dies midway, the flower buds wither, or the buds decline before opening. The "blind flower" phenomenon is mainly caused by the following reasons:
1. Poor quality narcissus bulbs. Small bulbs with poorly developed flower buds; bulbs damaged by pests or diseases, with dry and decayed root plates, few roots, and weak constitution.
2. Improper care. Infrequent water changes, insufficient light, excessively high room temperature, and poor ventilation cause leggy leaves and weak flower scapes. In addition, bumping and damaging roots and flower scapes during water changes can also lead to "blind flowers."
3. Improper water culture season. If water culture is started before Frost's Descent when bulbs are in dormancy, or after Qingming when temperatures rise, "blind flowers" will occur.
To prevent "blind flowers," first select high-quality three-year-old bulbs for water culture. For water culture, it is best to use rainwater or pond water; if using tap water, it should be stored for one day before use. Also, ensure the narcissus receives sufficient light, no less than 6 hours daily, and pay attention to indoor ventilation. Keep the temperature at 12-15°C, which is most favorable for narcissus growth. In the north, where the weather is dry, spray water on the narcissus plant daily.
Pest and Disease Control
The main pests and diseases of narcissus include large brown spot disease, leaf blight, nematode disease, Aspergillus disease, and Penicillium disease.
1. Brown spot disease mainly harms the leaves and stems of narcissus. It first appears at the leaf tips as brown spots. When extensively infected, lesions appear on both leaves and stems, causing leaves to curl, the plant to stop growing, and eventually die. In the early stage, you can use 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 600-700 times dilution, spraying every 5-7 days; several consecutive sprays can control the disease. Before planting, peel off the membranous scales and soak the bulbs in 0.5% formalin solution, or in 50% carbendazim at 500 times dilution for half an hour, to prevent this disease.
2. Leaf blight mostly occurs on narcissus leaves. It initially appears as chlorotic yellow spots, then expands in a fan shape with a yellow-green halo around the edges. In later stages, the leaves dry up and black granular objects appear. This disease can be prevented before planting by peeling off dry scales and rinsing 2-3 times with dilute potassium permanganate. In the early stage, spray with 50% zineb at 1500 times dilution.
3. Nematode disease mainly harms the leaves and flower stems of narcissus. Initially, yellow-brown mosaic stripes appear on the leaves and flower stems, followed by blister-like or wave-like swellings that cause the leaf and stem epidermis to crack and turn brown, until withering. This disease can be prevented by soaking bulbs in 0.5% formalin solution at 40-43°C for 3-4 hours. If severely infected plants are found during cultivation, immediately remove and destroy the diseased plants.
Controlling the Flowering Period
The flowering period of narcissus is earlier than peach and plum but later than plum blossom. Generally, water culture starts in autumn and winter, and flowering occurs in winter and spring. So, how can you make narcissus bloom during New Year's Day and Spring Festival? This can be achieved by artificially controlling the narcissus flowering period.
Generally, narcissus bulbs under normal water culture will bloom on schedule in 45-50 days. So-called normal water culture means ensuring that after the narcissus is placed in water, it receives 6 hours of light daily, with room temperature maintained at around 10-15°C. If the weather is abnormal, with insufficient light and temperatures too low (or too high), measures must be taken to ensure the narcissus blooms on schedule.
1. When temperatures are too low and light is insufficient, replace the water in the narcissus basin with warm water at 12-15°C; at night, surround the narcissus basin with plastic film, and use a 60-watt light at 40-50 cm from the flowers to increase temperature and strengthen lighting. At the same time, spray water on the narcissus leaves to prevent sudden temperature increases.
2. When temperatures are too high, add an appropriate amount of cold water to the narcissus basin, pour out the water at night for low-temperature treatment. This can delay the narcissus flowering.
Preventing Excessive Growth
1. To cultivate narcissus with short leaves and long flower stems, the key is to promote flower stem growth and avoid leaf legginess. When water-culturing narcissus, first remove the brown outer membrane of the bulb, make a vertical cut on the upper part of the bulb between each bud, cutting through 3-4 layers of scales, then make a horizontal cut on each side, being very careful not to damage the flower buds. Wash off the sticky liquid and place in a shallow basin for cultivation.
2. Place in a sunny location during the day, pour out the water from the basin at night, and add water again the next morning for cultivation. This can prevent leaf legginess.
3. You can also achieve short leaves and long flower stems by first planting in the ground or in pots, then transferring to water culture. The specific method is to first plant the narcissus bulbs in soil in a sunny location, water daily until flower stems emerge, then dig out the bulbs, wash off the soil, and water-culture them indoors for viewing.
Post-Bloom Handling
Generally, after the Spring Festival, narcissus flowers fade. Most people throw away the spent narcissus bulbs, which is actually a great pity. Narcissus is a perennial plant that reproduces through bulbs. If you bury those spent bulbs back into the soil, they can continue to grow and reproduce.
Choose a vegetable garden or nursery plot that is sheltered from wind, facing the sun, and has deep soil. After deep plowing and raking level, build high ridges, open furrows on the ridges, and bury the spent bulbs in them, naturally retaining the leaves. After one month, the leaves wither and go dormant. At this point, dig up the bulbs, cut off the fibrous roots, and trim away the withered yellow leaves along the base. Then bury the bulbs again at a depth of about 10 cm, apply decomposed cake fertilizer liquid or human waste, and rake level. Do not take the lazy approach of just burying them in a flower pot, because the bulbs need to spend the long spring, summer, and autumn seasons in the soil. Especially in summer and autumn, with high temperatures and heat, if the bulbs are buried without leaves above and you forget to water and fertilize them, they will die from drought.
After handling the bulbs, the remaining work is routine care and management. Normally, just pay attention to giving the plot sufficient nutrients while keeping it moist but not waterlogged, and the bulbs will grow naturally. By November or December, dig up the bulbs again. You will find that the old bulbs have rotted and become hollow, but many large and small bulbs have multiplied around them. Select those bulbs with large and numerous buds, wash off the soil, peel off the brown outer membrane, and sun them outside for a few hours. Then use a knife to make a "cross" shaped cut on the top of the bulb, deep enough not to damage the bud eyes inside the scales, to facilitate the growth of buds and leaves. Soak in clean water for 24 hours, wash off the gel-like mucus flowing from the cuts, and then normal water culture can begin. Generally after 3 days, white fibrous roots grow from the bottom of the bulb, and leaf blades gradually emerge from the bud eyes at the top. As for the small bulbs, since they will not bloom that year, let them grow in the soil for another year. After they develop and strengthen the following year, dig them out for water culture.
Cultivation Tips
1. Aspirin can help narcissus bloom. Dissolve 1-2 aspirin tablets in water, and use it to replace the clean water in the narcissus basin. This can make the flowers more robust and flourishing.
2. Warming to force narcissus flowering. Narcissus grows slowly at low temperatures, so warming methods can be used to force flowering:
① Sunlight warming: Move outside to sunlight during the day, or place in front of a south-facing window with ample sunlight indoors, until flowering.
② Light warming: Cover the flower pot with a plastic cover and turn on an electric light. Stop when the temperature inside the cover rises to 23°C.
③ Electric heater warming: Turn on an electric heater or place a hair dryer in a position where it will not scorch the narcissus, letting warm air gently blow over the flowers for several consecutive days until the flowers bloom.
④ Warm water warming: Add a small amount of warm water to the basin, letting the water temperature rise to 12-15°C.
3. Salt can extend the narcissus flowering period. When the narcissus flowers are in full bloom, add a small amount of table salt to the basin to extend the flowering period. Never add salt when the narcissus buds are about to open, as it will instead inhibit the buds from opening. Alternatively, crush two aspirin tablets into powder, dissolve in 1000 mL of water, and sprinkle on the narcissus basin that is blooming. This can extend the narcissus flowering period by about one week.
4. Color enhancement method. When the narcissus flower scape grows to about 25 cm in height, use a medical syringe to inject an aqueous solution of food coloring (the kind used for steaming pastries) into the scape stem. The injection point is at the upper 1/4 of the stem height.
5. Preventing root rot. First, if you empty the water at night, the fibrous roots will not dry out. If fibrous roots turn yellow and soft: change the water frequently. Keep the water clean for narcissus; it is best to change the water every 2-3 days to prevent root rot. Yellow areas can be gently brushed with a soft toothbrush.
Narcissus Cultivation Methods and Precautions
Many residents want to make their homes full of life. Narcissus is a plant quite suitable for indoor cultivation. During the day, the narcissus basin should be placed in a sunny spot facing the sun to receive sufficient light, which can make the narcissus leaves broad and thick, upright, with fresh green color and fragrant flowers. How do you grow narcissus? What precautions are there for growing narcissus? Below is an introduction to these topics so that you can have a correct understanding in daily life. We have carefully prepared some knowledge here; come and learn with us. We hope our content is helpful to you!
Tall-Stemmed Narcissus
Narcissus Cultivation MethodsWater culture method: This is a commonly used method for household narcissus cultivation. Before water-culturing narcissus, remove the dry brown scales from the outer layer of the narcissus bulb, as well as the root-protecting mud and brown decayed roots at the base. After washing the surface, stand it upright in a shallow basin without drainage holes. Pour clean water into the basin to submerge the bulb about 1 cm, then place in a cool location. After the bulb grows roots, place it in sunlight.
Soil culture method: Soil culture is generally rarely used for household cultivation. Soil-cultured narcissus requires loose humus soil. Before planting, peel off the dry outer scales of the narcissus bulb and scrape off old roots as preparation. Add humus soil to about 3 cm below the pot rim, shake the pot to make it firm, then place the narcissus bulb base in and add about 1 cm more soil. Then water thoroughly, move the pot to a cool location. After 5 days, when the bulb has grown roots, move it to a sunny location for cultivation.
Narcissus Cultivation Methods
The first step in growing narcissus is selecting bulbs. When selecting bulbs, pay attention to shape, color, and the feel when pressing. Good bulbs are large, flat in shape, hard in texture, free of rot, bright in color, and slightly springy when pressed.
Next is choosing an appropriate growing environment. Narcissus growth requires sufficient sunlight and water, with a suitable temperature of around 15°C. If sunlight is insufficient, it will be very difficult to make it bloom.
Before water culture, first peel off the dry brown scale leaves from the outer layer of the bulb, remove the root-protecting mud and brown decayed roots at the base (be careful not to damage the white new roots), wash the surface, and stand upright in a shallow basin without drainage holes. Add water to about 1 cm above the base of the narcissus bulb, place in a cool location. After the bulb grows roots, place it in sunlight.
For water-cultured narcissus, it is best to change the water daily. On one hand, this prevents water deterioration and contamination causing root rot; on the other hand, changing water daily keeps the water clean and the roots white and beautiful. When changing water, use tap water that has been left to stand. Do not use too much water; soaking to just below half of the bulb is sufficient. Before flowering, you can change to once every 2-3 days.
Fertilizing: After narcissus buds form, the nutrients in the bulb are almost depleted, so appropriate fertilizing is needed in the later growth stage. Starting from bud formation, apply a small amount of monopotassium phosphate to the basin when changing water (0.5 g each time), or spray the leaves with 0.2% monopotassium phosphate.
Light: Narcissus is a short-day bulb plant; it only needs 10 hours of light daily. During the growth stage, it prefers more light; sufficient light helps the plant's assimilation and nutrient accumulation.
Pest and disease control. Narcissus bulb basal rot: After infection, the bulb shows dark brown rot, and in severe cases, the entire bulb rots. Prevention method: Before planting, soak the bulb in 25% carbendazim at 500 times dilution for 15-30 minutes. For already infected plants, drench the roots with carbendazim at 800 times dilution. Narcissus stem nematode disease: After infection, yellow-brown mosaic stripes appear on leaves and flower stems, and finally the epidermis cracks and leaves wither. Prevention method: Soak bulbs in 40% formaldehyde at 120 times dilution.
Potted Narcissus
Precautions for Growing Narcissus1. Temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise growth stops and the plant enters dormancy, causing flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise leaves will grow into garlic-leaf shapes;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise water deterioration and contamination will cause root rot. Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by humans. If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival, you can pot the bulbs (narcissus heads) about 20-30 days before the Spring Festival. After potting, it will begin to grow and bloom.
How to Grow Lilies: Teaching You the Cultivation Methods and Precautions for Potted Lilies
Like all living things, for lilies to grow vigorously and ultimately produce beautiful flowers, the most fundamental conditions are: the bulb itself must be of good quality, the environment must be suitable, management must keep up, and from the start of planning to plant until the final flower withers, you must always care for them and manage them meticulously. Only then can you ensure that lilies will be as you wish, pleasing to the eye. As for whether you can make money, that depends on whether the market cooperates; however, flower enthusiasts grow them for their own enjoyment, which is outside the scope of this article.1. Successfully ordering high-quality bulbs is fundamental to successful planting. However, since bulbs are not industrial products but agricultural products, and moreover imported products facing various national quality inspection requirements, various problems will always exist. Regardless of which company, domestic or foreign, if they pat their chest and guarantee that everyone's orders (supply, supply quality) have no problems whatsoever, they are certainly a fraud. That being the case, you can only choose reliable suppliers to reduce the probability of problems with the bulbs.High-quality lily bulbs: firm, clean, with a good root system
A common problem with lily bulbs is Penicillium infection (as shown in the image below). If the infection has not affected the basal plate of the bulb, the problem is not serious.Frost damage -- the bulb's buds turn black (as shown in the image below). In severe cases, they can only be discarded.2. Environment: The common promotional phrase is "even grass has life." I remember a Dutch expert also said, "The water you can drink, it can drink too; the environment you can tolerate, it can tolerate too." "Even grass has life" speaks the truth. You must treat it like your own baby, touch it, perceive it, and then change its environment at any time, so that it can repay you with beautiful flowers.
1) Soil:
Soil structure: Although lilies can grow in all types of soil, it is very important to ensure that the cultivation soil has a good structure and maintains good drainage throughout the entire growth stage. Poor soil structure and compaction often cause lily roots to grow weakly or even die from lack of oxygen, or due to poor drainage, Pythium runs rampant and causes lily root death, ultimately leading to poor growth or even death of the lilies.
The image below shows the situation where heavy rain from a typhoon flooded the soil, causing root death from lack of oxygen. Of course, overly compacted soil makes the situation even more severe.Soil pH and salinity: Maintaining an appropriate soil pH is very important for lily root development and proper nutrient uptake. If the pH is too low, it leads to excessive uptake of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese, and aluminum); if the pH is too high, it leads to insufficient uptake of phosphorus, manganese, and iron. Everyone knows that insufficiency is bad, but not everyone knows that excess is just as bad as deficiency.
Lilies are also sensitive to salinity. Too high salinity produces hard, brittle roots that turn yellow and brown, reducing the root system's water uptake, affecting lily quality, and in severe cases even causing lily root death and plant death. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizers and water used.
The image below shows what was originally a very beautiful root system, but due to the use of uncomposted organic fertilizer, part or all of the roots died. Very regrettable.Soil pathogens: Lilies often die due to soil fungi damaging the root system. Common fungi include Rhizoctonia, Pythium, and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia only harms the plant while the buds are still in the soil; Pythium can be mitigated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, during the entire growth process, it is very necessary to use broad-spectrum fungicides several times, such as chlorothalonil.
The image below shows damage from Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.From the above, it is clear how critical suitable cultivation soil is to successful cultivation. If the soil is bad, no matter how much effort you put into management, you can only look on with tears. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has not previously been used to grow lilies. Of course, the most ideal is to use peat (domestic peat is fine). To reduce management difficulty, using 80% peat and adding 20% perlite or pine bark medium is very wise. If considering base fertilizer, using controlled-release fertilizer with controllable release rates is most ideal. If you are very fond of organic fertilizer, be sure to use fully composted organic fertilizer.With such a good root system, why worry about not having beautiful lily flowers?
2) Temperature
Rooting stage temperature: For 2-3 weeks after planting, maintaining an appropriately low temperature (10-12°C) to ensure that lilies can grow good stem roots is very critical. However, most of the time, we cannot guarantee such ideal weather. Therefore, professional growers use cold storage for rooting, and we can use the crisper drawer of a refrigerator. Wrapping lily bulbs in peat (peat should not be too wet; squeezing a handful so that a few drops fall is sufficient) and placing them (breathable) in the refrigerator crisper drawer for rooting is a good idea. Although low temperatures will extend the growth period, I think everyone should not mind managing them for a few more days.The situation of pre-rooting: in hot seasons, root first, then plant.
Growth stage temperature: Although the ideal growing temperature for lilies is 15-25°C, we cannot control the temperature of nature. However, we should still avoid extreme situations. Lilies below 5°C are prone to frost damage; above 35°C, the growth period will be greatly shortened, and quality will correspondingly decline. In summer with strong sunlight, we can lower the temperature by shading and enhancing ventilation. How pleasant it would be to have cool breezes under the shade of trees in summer.
3) Relative humidity: The suitable relative humidity for lilies is between 70-80%, but this is for professional producers growing in greenhouses. For those growing lilies in the yard or on the balcony, there is no need to consider this. In greenhouses, poor growth is often caused by excessively high humidity, but I have not seen outdoor lilies grow poorly even with continuous rainy weather (provided the soil drainage is good and fungicides are regularly applied to control Botrytis), though slight effects will still be encountered. This is because ventilation in greenhouses is very poor; when a person goes in, they feel very stuffy, and plants feel the same way.
Here are a few images of lily leaf damage caused by excessively high greenhouse humidity.Due to excessively high humidity, the water pressure inside the plant becomes too great, ultimately causing leaf damage from cell wall rupture; in severe cases, even the flower buds are lost. This is a physiological disorder, not pathogen damage, and applying fungicides is useless. Using calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of cell walls and can reduce the damage.Prolonged rainy weather makes plant leaves very tender, and because the plant needs to expel excess water from its body, the leaf stomata remain open for extended periods. Being open for so long causes the leaf stomata to ultimately lose their closing function (they would normally open and close automatically according to climate conditions). After the rainy weather passes, the leaf stomata still remain open, transpiring and expelling water, ultimately causing the leaves to lose water, become papery, and even scorch.
4) Shading: Shading can control temperature, relative humidity, and light.
In summer, sunlight is usually very strong. For 2-3 weeks after planting (before bud formation), you can shade 80% of the light. After bud formation, since Asiatic lilies and LA hybrid lilies are sensitive to light, insufficient light can cause bud abortion, so shading can be appropriately reduced, such as shading 50% of the light. Oriental lilies are not sensitive to light and can still be shaded 50-70% of the light.
General Steps for Growing Potted Lilies at Home:
1. Preparation:
1) Growing medium: It is recommended to choose peat soil as the main medium for planting.
2) Fertilizer: It is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 slow-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate per cubic meter of medium as base fertilizer.
3) Pots: A 13 cm pot can hold 3 bulbs of 12-14 cm size; a 15 cm pot can hold 3 bulbs of 12-14 cm or 14-16 cm size. Choose pots according to your own situation. Pots should preferably be at least 12 cm tall.
2. Receiving lily bulbs: After long-distance logistics, when you receive the lily bulbs, they will have thawed. Normally, there should be small sprouts. As long as the sprouts are no more than 5 cm long and not broken, even curved sprouts are no problem at all. Please plant with confidence.
After receiving the bulbs, you can soak them in chlorothalonil at 600-800 times dilution for 30 minutes.
3. Planting:
1) First, mix the medium and base fertilizer evenly, and water until a handful squeezed drips water;
2) Place 2-3 cm of the mixed medium at the bottom of the pot;
3) Plant the bulbs in the pot with the sprouts facing outward;
4) Cover the bulbs with about 8 cm of medium;
5) Water thoroughly, place in a shaded area, and avoid sunlight as much as possible.
4. The recommended number of bulbs per pot is 1, 3, or 5. Odd numbers look better. If more than 5, odd or even numbers do not matter.
At temperatures of 6-7°C in June-July, sprouts generally emerge within 7 days.
1. Medium: peat soil2. Fertilizer: controlled-release fertilizer, calcium nitrate3. Pot: 160 dual-color pot, plant 3 bulbs4. Planting
1) Correct planting method: the sprout tip of the bulb faces the pot wallIncorrect planting method: the sprout tip of the bulb faces the center; consequence: all the sprouts concentrate in the middle, which looks unattractiveOf course, if you plant them randomly, then when the sprouts emerge they will be very messy and disorderly, and look unattractive. As for potted planting, it is best to wait until the bulb has a 3-5 cm sprout before planting, so you can control the direction of the sprout, and the overall look of the plant will be better.
What growing environment after planting?
In the two weeks after planting, lily growth still needs relatively low temperatures to continue developing a good root system, so for potted lilies, after planting you can choose a place without direct sunlight; for lilies planted in the open ground, you can use a shade net to block direct sunlight. However, whether potted or open-ground cultivation, once the lily shows flower buds, it should immediately be given light; potted ones can be moved to a place with ample light, and open-ground ones must have the shading removed, otherwise it will affect the number of lily buds and the flowering quality; Asian lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and in severe cases all the buds will drop. Proper topdressing can make the lily stems thicker and stronger, especially in the hot summer. But note that the concentration should be lighter than usual application to avoid fertilizer burn. For topdressing, you can still choose a high-potassium lily-specific fertilizer 15-15-30 diluted in water, at a concentration of 1000-1500 ppm, that is, 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer added to 1-1.5 liters of water, mixed evenly.
Each variety has different characteristics, and the flowering period also differs earlier or later. But the temperature level also affects how early or late flowering occurs. For the conventional flowering time of specific varieties, please see the product information for each variety. Here, I want to remind friends in the northernmost regions that in the later growth stage of lilies, if the nighttime temperature drops below 10 degrees, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering for Oriental lilies is about 100 days, while Asian lilies need only about 60 days. So, when choosing varieties, fellow flower lovers, please choose varieties according to the local climate conditions and your own care conditions, to avoid the situation where, just at the moment of flowering, they are frozen and all your previous effort is wasted. Wouldn't that be a pity?
Notes:
1. The previously mentioned "you can use the refrigerator's crisper compartment, wrap the lily bulbs in peat (peat not too wet; it is enough if water drips when squeezed by hand) (breathable) and place them in the refrigerator's crisper compartment to root; this is a good idea" - put them in the refrigerator's cold storage compartment to go through the 2-3 week rooting period, so from the 5-degree temperature of the cold storage compartment, when taken out, the outside temperature is at least 25 degrees; can they adapt?
Answer: Yes. Professional lily cut-flower producers take rooted lily bulbs out of cold storage, and the temperature inside the greenhouse is as high as 40 degrees. However, please pay attention to shading in the early stage; after buds appear, please reduce the degree of shading. If heavy shading of 80% is maintained all along, Asian lilies may lose their buds due to lack of light.
2. How to handle the bulbs after the flowers fade
After the flowers fade, please cut off the spent flowers. Of course, the stems and leaves are retained. At the same time, please maintain normal care. Generally, when the low-temperature season (November-December) arrives, the aboveground stems will die, and the bulbs are in the ground. During this stage, please reduce the use of water and fertilizer. After spring begins, as long as the bulbs have not rotted or been eaten by insects, they will grow and bloom again. For lilies planted in the yard, you do not need to take care of them; the next year they will grow out nicely, year after year, and more and more small lilies will appear.
3. Posting a few pictures of professional lily pot cultivation from abroad★How to grow lilies in pots
Lilies belong to cool-climate flowers, meaning regions with a cool climate and a large temperature difference between day and night are most suitable for growing lilies.
Lilies do not have the brown outer skin on the outside of tulip bulbs. Before being planted in soil, they must be stored at a constant temperature of 2 degrees, otherwise they will quickly root and are also prone to rotting. So after we buy lily bulbs from the market, we must plant them as soon as possible and cannot leave them for long.
I. Prepare the bulbs
The top is the sprout, the bottom is the roots; do not get it reversed! Some bulbs have not yet grown roots; look at the scales, and the one with the opening facing upward is the sprout!
Before planting, the bulbs should first be disinfected by soaking in a 1000-fold solution of imported carbendazim for 20 minutes, rinsed with clean water, and after drying they can be planted.II. Prepare soil and pots
Lilies like fertile sandy soil with good water retention and drainage. Peat : river sand : perlite = 2:2:1. You can also use cactus soil; in any case, you cannot use clay.
Because lilies are bulb flowers with two layers of roots, the container chosen should be a relatively deep pot.III. Planting
First put 10-15 cm of soil in the bottom of the pot, place the bulbs; if three bulbs per pot, place the heads of the bulbs toward the edge of the pot, that is, place them tilted toward the pot edge, so that after sprouting the plants will be evenly distributed. Cover the tops of the bulbs with about 5 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a cool place for 1-2 days.IV. Care
Water: keep the soil moist. From just having buds to the flowering period, spraying water twice a day, morning and evening, is enough. In addition, use a 1000-fold solution of imported carbendazim to water twice a month.
Fertilizing: generally fertilize once every half month.Common problems in lily cultivation
1. Leaf scorch
Cause of leaf scorch: caused by physiological calcium deficiency.
Conditions for occurrence: it easily occurs under conditions such as excessive shading, poor ventilation, high air humidity, continuous cloudy days, too-low soil pH, and poor plant root systems.
Preventive measures: improve ventilation conditions and increase plant water transpiration.
Appropriately provide light earlier and harden the seedlings.
Using root treatment before planting is beneficial to root development and the absorption of calcium ions.
Peeling leaves (separating the tightly clasped leaves) before the period when leaf scorch is about to appear can also reduce the occurrence of leaf scorch.
Keep dry and avoid long-term water accumulation on the plants.
Increase the application of calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, which can be done by root fertilization or foliar fertilization.2. Root burn
Cause of root burn: the salt concentration of the soil solution is too high.
A. The soil itself is severely salinized and the EC value is too high;
B. Improper fertilization, applying too much fertilizer at one time, causing the soil solution concentration to be too high;
C. Insufficient water and overly dry soil can also cause the soil solution concentration to increase.
Preventive measures: do not choose soil with too high salinity; do not directly place high-salt substrate or fertilizer on the bulbs; adopt the method of frequent light fertilization, avoiding the use of a large amount of fertilizer at one time, which causes root burn; check the root system frequently, and if root burn occurs, water promptly and combine with spraying foliar fertilizer.3. High temperature has a serious impact on lilies; high temperature should be avoided as much as possible, including high temperatures of the soil and environment; anything above 30°C is called high temperature.4. Common leaf yellowing5. Blight
Preventive measures:
A. Focus on prevention, avoid continuously excessive soil moisture (especially avoid flooding) and excessively high air humidity, and try to avoid air humidity above 90%.
B. Disinfect the soil and bulbs before planting; you can choose dexon, phosethyl-Al, hymexazol, etc.
C. Avoid continuous cropping in blight-infected crop land with shared pathogen hosts, such as avoiding continuous cropping with baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae, cucurbits and other vegetables. That is: soil that has grown baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae, or cucurbits should as much as possible not be used to grow lilies again.
6. Root rot
Preventive measures:
Control soil moisture.
Disinfect bulbs and soil with carbendazim, dexon, hymexazol, etc.
Reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizer used, especially ammoniacal nitrogen, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.7. Fusarium stem rot
Preventive measures:
Disinfect bulbs and soil before planting; lower soil temperature.8. Gray mold - avoid a continuously high-humidity environment9. Blind flower (no flower)
Causes of blind flower:
A. Insufficient water and fertilizer supply: lilies are a flower variety that requires a relatively large supply of water and fertilizer. In the early stage, the plant growth mainly relies on the nutrients of the bulb; in the middle and late stages, it mainly relies on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain plant growth. If the water and fertilizer supply is poor, it will seriously affect lily growth and development, causing the branches to be thick at the bottom and thin at the top, the plants to be weak, and in severe cases causing blind flowers and bud drop.
B. Too-high temperature: too-high temperature will seriously affect lily quality. Lilies prefer a cool climate; if the temperature is too high, growth is too fast, accumulation of substances in the plant is low, and organic matter consumption is high, which causes malnutrition, and in severe cases causes blind flowers and bud drop.
C. Insufficient light: insufficient light, overly dense planting, and poor ventilation affect the plant's photosynthesis, resulting in low substance accumulation and easily causing weak plants and even bud drop. OT-type lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and insufficient light easily causes bud loss.
D. Insufficient nutrients in the bulbs: too-small bulb size, too-early harvesting of bulbs, and too-long storage time can also cause insufficient nutrients in the bulbs, easily causing blind flowers and bud drop in lilies.
E. Too-deep planting depth: planting too deep causes lilies to emerge slowly and consumes a large part of the bulb's nutrients, making the plant's nutrients insufficient and growth poor, and in severe cases causing blind flowers.
F. Poor lily root growth: if the lily root system is poor, its absorption capacity is insufficient, causing insufficient plant nutrition; there is not enough nutrition to supply bud growth, bud growth is inhibited, and blind flowers and bud drop can also occur.★Lily variety selection and planting methods
I. Basic introduction
Are lilies hard to grow?
Actually not.
I am a bulb enthusiast, and the order I have concluded from many years of cultivation is
Ease of growing: (common problems in parentheses)
Rain lily > amaryllis (expensive...) = freesia (lodging) = grape hyacinth (disheveled) = crocus (degeneration) > lily (bud loss and bulb rot) > narcissus (bulb rot, degeneration, slow growth) > hyacinth (flower stuck in the spathe, bulb rot, degeneration) > tulip (bulb rot, bud loss, one-time) > ranunculus (one word: rot) > anemone (rotting nonstop from the very beginning)
There are too many oxalis varieties to say for sure; some are as easy to grow as weeds, while others are god-level difficult.
Gloxinia and cyclamen are better grown as herbaceous plants, so they are not included in the ranking; bulbous iris is not very widespread, so it is not included either.
It can be seen that lilies are not only suitable as cut flowers in flower shops; as household potted plants and perennial garden plants they are also very good.
Most of the parents of lily hybrids actually come from China; they are authentically Chinese flowers and are very well adapted to our climate (except Oriental lilies, which come from Japan).
II. Variety selection
Order of ease of growing
LA > Asian lily (A) > Easter lily (L) = LO > OT > Oriental lily (O)
LA is an improvement on Asian lilies, producing bulblets faster, with large flowers.
LO can be considered an improvement on the Easter lily, with richer flower colors and stronger fragrance.
OT improves the heat tolerance, reproduction rate, and ease of growing of Oriental lilies.
Fragrance
Oriental lily = OT > Easter lily = LO >> LA; Asian lily = 0
The last two, the Asian lily types, basically have no fragrance, suitable for flower lovers who dislike the fragrance of lilies.
The Easter lily has a light, sweet fragrance, stronger at night.
The first two are strongly fragrant. Oriental lily is the scent of flower shop lilies; OT is sometimes sweet and sometimes pungent; LO is a mixed scent of Easter lily and Oriental lily, and the fragrance is very weak on hot days.
1. Lily flowers generally have the strongest fragrance 1-2 days after opening, then gradually become lighter; it is normal for them not to be very fragrant just after opening.
2. The floral fragrance of lilies is not harmful to the human body and will not trigger allergies; it is only that an overly strong fragrance may stimulate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people, causing symptoms such as dizziness and excitement with difficulty sleeping.
3. Lily pollen easily stains clothing and skin. Do not rinse with water, as it will stick more firmly; instead, use clear tape to lift it off. Even cutting off the stamens is a good method.
Main hybrid classifications and their detailed advantages and disadvantages
1. Asiatic lily (Asiatic)
Advantages: many flower colors, low plant height, many buds, flowers facing upward, early flowering (2-3 months from planting), easy to grow, fast reproduction, extremely cold-hardy (can overwinter outdoors in Northeast China)
Disadvantages: flowers on the small side (12-15 cm), no fragrance, relatively high light requirements during the bud stage, and insufficient light easily causes bud loss
Representative varieties: many; most can be chosen with confidence, and there are also potted types with a plant height of about 20-30 cm
The potted effect of Asian lily Spring Field; pot diameter 15 cm; the right side is the result of chlormequat treatment, and the far left is the original plant height
Actual pot cultivation cannot reach the stated plant height (110 cm); that is the height after two to three years of cultivation
SpringfieldTinos2. Oriental lily (Oriental), commonly known together with OT as fragrant lily, flower shop cut flower
Advantages: strong fragrance, large flowers (15-20 cm), low light requirements, flat flower shape, broad leaves, flamboyant and gorgeous blooms
Disadvantages: some varieties are weak and prone to lodging, not very heat-tolerant, relatively slow to reproduce, late flowering, and lower leaves yellow more severely
Representative varieties: Sorbonne (the light pink flower in flower shops), Siberia (the white flower in flower shops)
The potted effect of Oriental lily (famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful; note that the leaves are fewer and broader and thicker than those of Asian liliesSorbonne3. Musk/Easter lily (Longiflorum), also called Easter lily
Advantages: elegant and graceful flower shape, very easy to grow, moisture-tolerant, fast reproduction, relatively poor cold hardiness, native to the subtropics, does not need low-temperature dormancy
Disadvantages: only white (all pink and yellow lines are LO hybrids; online shops all labeled them incorrectly this year), pollen easily stains the petals
Representative variety: everyone has heard of the famous White Heaven, right?4. LO hybrids - recommended
Advantages: inherits the flower shape and ease of growing of the Easter lily, and the flower color and fragrance of the Oriental lily; very easy to grow and reproduce, large flowers (18-25 cm), fast development, no need for low-temperature dormancy
Disadvantages: under high temperature the single flowering period is not long, buds are on the fewer side, color fades with insufficient light, and there are relatively few varieties in China
Representative variety: Triumphator is its outstanding representative; it is especially recommended, one of the lilies that any beginner can keep alive (often sold out...)
The potted effect of Little Triumphator; note that it is relatively tall and has large flowersUnder strong light and low temperature the flower color is very intense5. OT hybrids - recommended
Advantages: inherits the excellent genes of Trumpet lilies (Trumpet, whose parents are Lilium regale from Sichuan and so on), has richer flower colors than Oriental lilies, is heat-tolerant and easy to grow, has robust plants, and does not need low-temperature dormancy. The stems are very thick, the flowers are large (20-25 cm), and the fragrance is rich. Suitable for courtyards and large containers; commonly called Tree lily abroad.
Downsides: In the first year they often don't flower much, some varieties produce abnormally large flowers, and the flowers tend to droop.
Representative varieties: Conca D'or, Yelloween, Nymph. The color range is broad, especially the yellow tones that Oriental lilies lack.
Note: Apart from Yelloween, the yellow varieties tend to have fewer buds; even a 16-18 cm bulb produces only two to three buds.
The perennial Conca D'or, note the height and flower count.Yelloween, large flowers with a rich, sweet fruity fragrance.6. LA hybrids - recommended
Pros: They multiply even more frantically than Asiatic lilies, have large flowers, and some varieties have a light fragrance. This type loves to split bulbs like crazy and doesn't drop buds as easily as Asiatic lilies.
Cons: Like Asiatic lilies, the flower shape is rather stiff, the flowers tend to be deformed, and the flower count is often lower than that of Asiatic lilies.
Representative varieties: Red Alert, Diamond Party, and so on. Basically you can pick any of them, no taboos.
Potted effect of Red Alert. Compared with Asiatic lilies, the flowers are larger and the leaves wider. It hasn't inherited the trumpet flower shape, and the fragrance comes and goes.Red Alert7. Edible lilies
The most common is usually the Chinese native species Lilium lancifolium (tiger lily). The plant is tall and slender, with recurved petals. Easy to grow, but not suitable indoors.
Its ornamental value may be inferior to Dutch hybrids, and it is one of the parents of Asiatic lilies.
Very distinctive recurved, drooping flowers.
Sometimes dishonest sellers pass it off as fragrant lily.8. Double-flowered lilies
Divided into Asiatic and Oriental types, with the same characteristics and care as above. They resemble double-flowered amaryllis, with less of the lily character, and are prone to deformity and incomplete petalization.III. Indoor care
1. Light
Not very demanding; they can be grown on an enclosed balcony, and east, west and south exposures are all fine.
At least 3 hours of direct light, with 4-6 hours being better.
The blazing sun of a west-facing exposure may scorch Oriental lily leaves, so moderate protection is needed.
Note: when Asiatic lily buds are the size of a peanut, they must not lack light, otherwise the buds will drop.
2. Soil. This is the most important. Drainage and aeration are the first priority.
I use peat and perlite, but the materials aren't limited to these, as long as it's loose, airy and light, to prevent the bulb from rotting.
Peat (sphagnum peat, sterilized potting soil, compost soil, coconut coir) : perlite (or various granular substrates) = 2:1 to 1:1
You can add more perlite to the soil near the bulb, which is safer.
Slow-release fertilizer/organic fertilizer can be mixed evenly into the soil mix; don't pile it all at the bottom of the bulb, as it won't be absorbed and easily rots the bulb.
3. Water
Except for Oriental lilies, which are best kept evenly moist, the other varieties are very drought-tolerant (especially when planted in the ground), so less is better than too much. It's fine to wait until the pot feels light or the surface soil has dried out before watering.
Each time you water, you can judge by the weight of the pot; water thoroughly when it feels light.
The signs of overwatering are bulb rot, a large number of lower leaves turning yellow and dropping, scorched buds, and scorched yellow tips on the top leaves. If any one of these appears, be on alert.
Underwatering rarely happens, since the bulb and fleshy stem can both store water. So if you see wilting, suspect bulb rot first rather than lack of water.
4. Fertilizer and bulb nurturing
Lilies like fertilizer, but apply light doses frequently; heavy fertilizer causes leaf burn (scorched leaf tips, dead buds).
If growing them for just one season, no fertilizer is needed.
If you want them to bloom again year after year, then fertilizing after flowering is important, mainly with nitrogen and potassium.
The nutrient uptake ratio of lilies: nitrogen : phosphorus : potassium = 10:1:12. But phosphorus is easily fixed and hard to absorb, so using a ratio of 1:1:1 or 1:1:1.5 is fine.
Remember to apply light doses frequently, just add a little with each watering. No need for heavy fertilizer; its fertilizer needs are smaller than other bulbs.
Don't fertilize at sprouting; during rapid growth, mainly nitrogen; when buds appear, mainly phosphorus and potassium; no fertilizer during flowering; start nurturing the bulb immediately after flowering, with the fertilizer ratios as described above.
5.pH
For Oriental lilies, slightly acidic soil (5.5-6) is best; peat itself is acidic enough.
Other varieties have no particular requirement.
6. Temperature
Lilies are actually spring-planted bulbs: plant in spring, flower in summer, nurture in autumn, store in winter (for most parts of the country).
For the hot, humid regions of Guangdong and Guangxi, as well as Hong Kong, China, Macao, China and Taiwan, China, you can consider refrigerating in summer, planting in autumn, and enjoying flowers in winter and spring.
When rooting in spring, keep the temperature around 12 degrees, which is most favorable for stem root growth.
In summer, protect them from high-temperature damage; lower temperatures can extend the flowering period. OT lilies are very heat-tolerant, so they can bloom under the blazing sun, while Oriental lily flowers often wither quickly in the strongest sunlight.
7. Dormancy
When winter temperatures are low (0-10 degrees), they go dormant (leaves drop, stems yellow; only then cut off the dead stems).
Ordinary Asiatic and Oriental lilies need a cold period of at least 1.5-3 months (4-5 degrees) before they can start the next year's growth.
Lilies with trumpet (LO, LA, L) and trumpet (T) genes can be planted year-round without deliberately creating a cold period; just keep winter temperatures below 20 degrees.
Natural low temperatures can be replaced by refrigerating at 4 degrees.
Heat-intolerant varieties may go dormant 1-2 months after flowering, but early dormancy is bad for nurturing the bulb and reblooming. And don't cut off the stems and leaves as soon as flowering ends.
Leaves dropping early and going dormant often means bulb rot or severe unfavorable conditions.
8. How to plant
No need for a disinfecting soak.
Try to keep the basal roots (the old roots at the bottom of the bulb); heavily rotted parts can be cut off.
There should be at least 5 cm of soil above the top of the lily bulb. Space bulbs at least 2-3 cm apart. The sprout tip should lean slightly toward the pot wall rather than the center of the pot.
9. Planting depth
Lilies have two layers of roots. Below the bulb are the basal roots (which can remain functional for several years), with a weaker absorption function. Bulbs you receive often have basal roots that are rotten and battered, but don't worry.
At the base of a newly sprouted shoot, several layers of dense, pure white roots are produced, called stem roots (annual). These are the main force for nutrient absorption, so the top of the bulb must not be placed at the soil surface.
Moderate deep planting helps avoid heat damage and nurture the bulb.
So the formula is drainage layer + 3-5 cm bottom soil + bulb + 5-10 cm cover soil. Simple, right~ The pot should be at least 15 cm tall.
Water thoroughly to settle the roots, then wait patiently. Don't dig around. After the sprouts break through the soil, resume normal care.
As shown in the picture.Here I'll update a beginner planting method: "adding soil in steps -- different from the old method of adding all the soil at once."
I forgot to mention it earlier.
When first planting lilies, you can let the soil just cover the bulb, without adding soil on top yet, leaving 8-10 cm of space above the soil surface for adding more soil later. Water thoroughly, wait for the sprout to emerge from the top of the bulb, then gradually add soil to the normal depth (5-10 cm from bulb top to soil surface).
The advantage is that it satisfies everyone's curious and eager mindset, avoiding the worry of fearing the bulb won't sprout and the dilemma of wanting to dig it up but not daring to. At the same time, you can adjust the direction of the sprout as it grows, so it doesn't emerge crooked and unattractive from deep in the soil. The first watering is also easier to do thoroughly. (For reference only; this method does not interfere with stem root growth.)
10. After flowering and dormancy
After opening, they can be cut for vase arrangements, usually withering in 5-7 days, or you can enjoy them directly on the plant. The cut length should not exceed 1/3 of the plant height (leave at least 2/3; the more left the better, otherwise what will nurture the bulb?). You can remove the stamens to prevent staining the petals.
After flowering, remove the spent flowers to prevent seed formation.
Try not to force dormancy; following the lily's own rhythm best achieves good reblooming and multiplication rates.
Store in the original pot during dormancy, with almost no watering; give a little water each month to keep the peat slightly moist.
In hot summer regions, you can dig up the bulbs in spring, put them in the refrigerator, and plant in autumn.
Asiatic and Oriental lilies will sprout new shoots around February-March of the following year when temperatures rise.
Trumpet lilies may also sprout in autumn; let them grow and bloom naturally.
IV. Garden cultivation
This is very simple.
Planting depth 15 cm-20 cm in the north, shallower in the south as appropriate.
Asiatic lilies can be planted throughout China.
Oriental lilies can be safely planted in the ground except in South China and Northeast China.
OT, LO, LA can be ground-planted south of Liaoning.
Pure trumpet lilies can be ground-planted south of the Yellow River.
In particularly cold areas without snow cover, you can cover with branches, straw, compost, etc. to a depth of 5 cm. With snow, there's no need to fear they'll be frostbitten.
Cold hardiness A > LA >> LO = OT > O >> L
A spring cold snap may damage newly sprouted lilies, so a certain amount of cover protection is needed.
Note: deep dig the soil; for heavy clay soil, make raised beds with plenty of organic matter to facilitate drainage (the key of keys). In dry, hot summers, water occasionally.
V. Lily propagation methods
1. Bulb division
When the main bulb grows to a certain size, it naturally splits its growing points into two to several connected bulbs (basically all of flowering size). This process starts after flowering and occurs every year. It is the simplest propagation method.
The propagation speed mentioned when introducing varieties refers to the bulb division speed.
L=LA=A>LO=OT>>O
Oriental lilies may or may not divide each year, depending on cultivation and care. The first five types all divide very readily.
When there are too many divided bulbs and the sprouts are crowded, you can break them apart by hand during winter dormancy. It's very simple and won't damage the bulbs.
Asiatic lilies may send up multiple shoots in the first year; such bulbs often flower poorly, but after one year of growing you'll have several plants.
The growing point splits in two, with the remains of that year's old stem in the middle.2. Stem bulbs
These are actually small bulblets produced on the stem roots. Their number and quality depend greatly on the quality of the stem roots and how well they were cultivated that year. They reach flowering size after 1-3 years.
They develop faster than bulbils, equivalent to starting from the second growth stage of a bulbil (basal leaves --- stem --- flower).
Asiatic lilies, trumpet lilies, LA and LO are likewise outstanding at this type of propagation.
Especially LA: the stem bulbs in the first year are very likely to reach flowering bulb size.
The picture shows the small bulblets around the stem roots.3. Bulbils
After Asiatic lilies and Lilium lancifolium flower, especially after bud drop, small bulbs are produced at the base of the plant's leaves, called bulbils. When mature they often root and fall off.
Developing in the soil, in the first year they only grow a single grass-like leaf, go dormant in winter, and in the second year grow a daughter bulb and clustered leaves.
Then dormant again, and in the third year they send up a stem and flower. Although slow, the quantity is large.
When mature they are purplish-black.4. Scales
Very similar to amaryllis scale propagation: remove healthy scales (or scales that have accidentally fallen off), insert them diagonally in sterilized moist peat or vermiculite and refrigerate. After a month, small bulblets grow and can be transplanted. The multiplication rate is high but slow.
The development process is the same as for bulbils.5. Seeds - not recommended
Not recommended unless you're an enthusiast. Apart from native species like trumpet lilies and Lilium regale that you can try, most hybrids either have empty seed shells or grow slowly, and self-pollinated offspring will vary.
6. Cuttings - not recommended
Only applies to Taiwan lily (Lilium formosanum) hybrids, which can root.
For LO and LA, if you keep the cut flower stems moist, they can grow small bulbils that can be separated and planted, but the stems themselves are hard to root.
Basically useless for Oriental lilies and others, so cut flowers from florists can't be planted.
Lilies are monopodial monocots; once the terminal bud is damaged, that year's reproductive growth (flowering) stops. So absolutely never try topping or cuttings.
VI. Common problems
Basically, growers' problems are concentrated in the first two items.
1. Bulb rot - control watering well, better dry than wet
Caused by fungi, waterlogging is the main trigger, and by the time you notice it, it is often too late. If the basal plate is intact, you can peel off the rotten scales and disinfect before storing.
Symptoms vary: yellowing leaf edges, dropping lower leaves, wilting that does not recover after watering, blackened flower buds on OT, LO, LA and others, and obvious stunted growth. All of these very likely mean bulb rot.
2. Bud blast
Common in Asiatic lilies, caused by insufficient light (long spells of rain, being kept indoors). The small buds turn from green to brown, then shrivel and scorch, and they will not bloom that year. Keep growing the bulb well. In lilies without Asiatic blood, bud blast is mainly caused by bulb rot.
3. Leaf scorch
Strong fertilizer or unrotted manure can damage the roots, causing severe scorching of leaf tips and withered buds. In this case, flush the potting soil with plenty of water, and repot with fresh soil if necessary. Oriental lilies are more prone to leaf scorch. Watch out for chloride and fluoride ions in water and fertilizer, which should be kept low (phosphorus fertilizers such as calcium superphosphate contain more of them, so use them with caution).
4. Breakage
Treat it the same as bud blast and keep growing the bulb. Lilies do not produce side shoots, so a broken growing tip means no bloom that year.
5. Yellowing and dropping of lower leaves
A common problem in lilies, especially severe in Oriental lilies and some Asiatic lilies, while LA, LO and OT show it less obviously. If it is not serious, it barely affects the display value, and it can serve as an indicator of the plant's health.
5. Pests
Not common. Occasionally scale insects, Japanese beetles, aphids and the like attack. Snails may chew on buds, so pay attention to protection when planting in the ground.
6. Gray mold
Common in greenhouses with very high humidity and during hot, rainy weather. Mold-like lesions appear on the leaves; spray with fungicide to eliminate them.
7. Off-season sprouting
In particularly vigorous varieties such as Lilium longiflorum, new shoots may emerge in winter when the plant is near dormancy. Let them grow.
8. No sprouting
This is the situation beginners fear most. Fortunately, unless it is caused by bulb rot or rotten shoots, it is rare, and it is often because the bulb has not experienced enough cold to break dormancy.
In this case, you can put it in the refrigerator, and plant it once there are signs of sprouting.
9. Deformed shoots, double flowers
Often appears in cold-treated autumn bulbs and is related to overly long cold treatment. It generally does not affect planting.
Seven. Selection, purchase and storage
Each year suppliers have spring group orders and autumn group orders.
Spring is a good season to buy lilies. Orders are being taken everywhere now, with shipping from February to April.
The bulbs you receive are often fresh bulbs with very short sprouts or no sprouts.
In autumn, cold-treated bulbs (to break dormancy for autumn blooming) and pre-rooted bulbs (providing suitable temperatures in summer for stem root growth) are offered, with shipping from August to September. There are fewer varieties. They are recommended for indoor planting in the north and for the Guangdong-Guangxi region. When planted outdoors in the north, they often dry up in the north wind before they can bloom.
When these bulbs arrive, the sprouts are already very long and break easily, so never handle them roughly.
Lily bulbs do not store well because they have no protective outer skin, and once they dehydrate, they die.
During winter dormancy, they can be left in the original pot without being taken out. Water once a month to keep the potting soil slightly moist.
If you must take them out of the pot, you can use a plastic bag filled with moist peat, remove the stems from the dug-up bulbs and bury them in it, then store in the refrigerator crisper (not the freezer!) until they break dormancy and sprout, then take them out and plant.
Eight. Other
Pot selection:
The bigger and deeper the pot, the better, as long as drainage is smooth.
For home growing
For 14-16cm bulbs, an 18cm pot can hold three.
For 16-18cm bulbs, a 20cm pot can hold three.
You can also use a 15cm-18cm pot to plant a single bulb.
This is the minimum for pot size. You can increase the pot diameter as appropriate. Do not use shallow pots, for the reasons already explained above.
Bulb size:
14-16cm bulbs are mainly L, A, LA and LO varieties.
For Oriental lilies and OT, you generally need to buy 16-18cm bulbs to ensure the flower count.
Bulb circumference is closely related to the number of flowers. Generally, flowering starts at 12-14cm, and 18-20cm is exhibition grade. Lilium longiflorum types and OT types can be grown to a circumference of 25cm.
Plant height:
When you first grow lilies, seeing data of 90, 100, 110, 120 or even 130cm sounds terrifying.
But that is the mature plant height reached only after about two years of ground planting.
The height of potted plants falls far short of the listed values, and modern hybrids have very thick stems, so even with large and numerous flowers they will not lodging or break.
(In the first year, potted plants are about 1/2 to 2/3 of the standard height)
In theory, strong light and moderately high temperatures make plants shorter and bloom earlier, while weak light and low temperatures make stems elongate and bloom later.
Asiatic lilies take 70-90 days from planting to bloom, Oriental lilies 90-120 days, and the remaining varieties follow in the order, with A being early.
Please learn to grow lilies in a relaxed, rough-and-ready way.
There are now many lily-growing posts on forums, but fellow growers still treat them as far too delicate, fussing over every detail: how to mix the soil, how to disinfect, how to plant, how to water, whether to shade or sun them. Studying carefully is certainly good, but I think growing flowers should be a kind of leisure, a calm and unhurried state of mind, rather than being filled with anxiety and worry. What meaning is there in growing flowers like that?
Being too meticulous makes it especially easy to become overzealous, wanting to dig them up and look every day, water a little every day, and move them around constantly. The result is often too much water, rotten roots and no flowers.
In fact, under natural conditions there is often a lack of water and nutrients, pests and diseases run rampant, heavy rain pours down and fierce winds blow, yet lilies still bloom and set seed year after year, growing and multiplying. If you leave them alone, they grow very well.
★How to grow potted lilies
Growing habits: They like moisture and light, and require fertile, humus-rich, deep, sandy soil with extremely good drainage. Most varieties are best grown in slightly acidic to neutral soil. Specifically, there are the following points:
Lilies like cool, humid environments. Sunny spots and slightly shaded environments suit lilies better. They dislike drought and extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat weaker.
The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Plants only grow normally above 10°C. Above 25°C, growth stalls again. If winter nighttime temperatures stay below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and bud development are severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
They like fertile, deep soil rich in humus and dislike hard clay most of all; well-drained, slightly acidic soil is best, with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.
How to grow potted lilies? Potted lily cultivation methods:
1. Planting time: Potted lilies are best planted in September-October.
2. Soil: The growing medium is best made by mixing leaf mold, sand and garden soil in a 1:1:1 ratio, with plenty of fully rotted compost and a small amount of bone meal applied at the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer. The planting depth is generally about 2-3 times the diameter of the bulb.
The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulb rots easily. Potted lilies should be repotted once a year with fresh growing medium and base fertilizer.
3. Fertilizing: Lilies do not have very high fertilizer requirements. Usually, applying fertilizer when spring growth begins and at the start of flowering is enough. Some growers abroad believe lilies need more nitrogen and potassium, so apply once every 10-15 days during the growing period, while phosphorus should be limited, because too much phosphorus causes yellowing leaves.
During the flowering period, phosphorus can be applied 1-2 more times. To make the bulb plump, promptly cut off spent flowers after blooming to reduce nutrient consumption. Watering only needs to keep the potting soil moist, but during peak growth and dry weather, water a little more frequently, and often sprinkle water around the pot to raise air humidity.
4. Temperature: The suitable growing temperature for lilies is 12-18°C. In winter, even if the temperature drops to 3-5°C, they will not die of cold.
5. Light: Lilies are cold-resistant, light-loving, fertilizer-tolerant and moisture-fearing. Lack of sunlight and long-term shading will affect normal flowering. However, they adapt widely to different regions, and can be planted in the ground or in pots across the north and south.
Since lilies are bulbous plants, they can also be sown directly from bulbs. Plant them deep, about six or seven centimeters, so the lateral roots can reach deep and absorb as many nutrients as possible. The growing medium should preferably be sandy loam; clay and lime soil are unsuitable. If pond mud is used for planting, mix in some river sand and crushed charcoal so the medium is loose and airy, which is necessary for timely flowering.
In addition, during the growing period, turn the pot once a week. Otherwise the plant tends to grow lopsided, affecting its appearance.
★How to grow lilies
Lilies are undoubtedly a flower that many growers love very much. Many growers want to plant them at home to beautify their rooms, but do not know how to grow them. Here is a brief introduction:
Lilies like cool, humid environments. Sunny spots and slightly shaded environments suit lilies better. They dislike drought and extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat weaker. The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. If winter nighttime temperatures stay below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and bud development are severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers. Lilies like fertile, deep soil rich in humus and dislike hard clay most of all; well-drained, slightly acidic soil is best. Lily propagation includes bulb division, scale cuttings, seed sowing and tissue culture.
One. Lily growing habits
Lilies belong to the bulbous flowers of the genus Lilium in the lily family. They like a sunny environment and are long-day plants. Day length not only affects flower bud differentiation but also affects flower growth and development. Lilies do not like high temperatures and prefer a cool, humid climate. The optimum growing temperature for Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies is 20-25°C during the day, 25-28°C for Lilium longiflorum, with nighttime temperatures above 14°C. Temperatures above 30°C severely affect lily growth and development, causing bud abortion and a markedly lower flowering rate, while below 10°C growth nearly stops.
Two. Lily soil requirements
Lilies require soil that is rich in humus, deep and loose, able to retain appropriate moisture yet drain well. Sandy loam is best. Clay must never be used to grow lilies.
Lilies like slightly acidic soil. The suitable soil pH for Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum is 6-7, and for Oriental lilies it is 5.5-6.5. Lilies are generally not salt-tolerant, and the fluoride and chloride content in the soil should both be below 50mg/L, with total soil salinity not exceeding 1.5ms/cm.
Three. Preparatory work before planting
1. Soil disinfection: Before planting lilies, disinfect the soil. Common disinfection methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. Steam disinfection is rarely used now because it consumes a lot of energy and is troublesome to operate. Chemical disinfection uses
40% formalin diluted to a 1:50 or 1:100 solution and splashed onto the soil at 2.5kg per square meter. After splashing, cover with plastic film for 5-7 days, then uncover and air for 10-15 days before planting. Alternatively, sprinkle 8-10g/m2 of pure carbendazim powder into the soil for disinfection.
2. Thawing and disinfection of bulbs: Once the bulbs arrive, immediately open the packaging and place them at 10-15°C to thaw. After they are completely thawed, disinfect them. Disinfection method: soak the bulbs in a 1/1000 aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim or potassium permanganate for 30 minutes, or soak them in an 80-fold dilution of 40% formalin solution for 30 minutes. After removing, rinse off the residual solution on the bulbs with clean water, then dry them in a cool place before planting. Some domestic growing bases cut off the original basal roots before planting, which helps promote new basal roots.
3. Bulb storage: If thawed bulbs cannot all be planted right away, they must not be frozen again, otherwise there is a risk of freeze damage. They can be stored at 0-2°C, but for no more than two weeks; they can also be stored at 2-5°C for no more than one week, and the plastic film packaging must be opened.
Four. Planting depth and density
For spring and summer planting, the planting depth requires the top of the bulb to be 8-10cm below the soil surface, and 6-8cm in winter. Planting density varies with variety, bulb size and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, plant more densely; in winter, when sunlight is weaker, plant more sparsely.
The planting densities for different lily groups and bulb sizes (expressed as the number of bulbs per square meter) are listed below for reference:Five. Management after planting
1. Temperature: To obtain high-quality lily cut flowers, temperature control in the greenhouse is very important. Within 3-4 weeks after planting, the soil temperature must be kept low at 9-13°C to promote rooting. Too low a temperature unnecessarily prolongs the growing period, while above 15°C leads to poor development of stem roots. These stem roots quickly replace the basal roots and provide the plant with 90% of its water and nutrients, so to obtain high-quality lilies, the development of stem roots is crucial. After the rooting period, the ambient temperature for Oriental lilies should be controlled at 15-25°C, and for Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum at 14-23°C. If daytime temperatures are too high, lower them with ventilation and shading; if nighttime temperatures reach 15-25°C, lily cut flower stems are short, buds are few and quality drops. At this point (domestically) the method of spraying plants with a gibberellin solution is used to increase stem length. The specific amount varies with different growth stages and different ambient temperatures; generally less in the early growth stage and more later. Domestic solar greenhouses in winter generally prolong the lily growing period and severely affect cut flower quality, so temperature regulation measures should be increased.
2. Humidity: Before planting, the soil moisture should be such that it forms a ball when squeezed and crumbles when dropped. In hotter seasons, if conditions allow, water once with cold water before planting to lower the soil temperature. After planting, water once more so the soil and bulbs are in full contact, creating good conditions for stem root development. Thereafter, water to keep the soil moist, that is, a handful of soil forms a ball but does not release water. Watering is generally done on a sunny morning. Relative humidity should preferably be 80%-85%, and large fluctuations in relative humidity should be avoided, otherwise leaf scorch may occur.
3. Fertilizer: In the early stage of growth, flowering lily bulbs mainly consume the nutrients stored in their own scales, so no excessive base fertilizer is needed before planting. One month after planting, additional fertilizer can be applied according to soil fertility. Lilies have a very high demand for potassium, and a compound fertilizer can be prepared in the ratio N-
P2O5-K2O=14:7:21. Apply 10kg per mu each time, once every 10-15 days, until 3 weeks before flower harvest. Attention should also be paid to supplementing trace elements such as iron, boron and zinc.
4. Light: Light is an important condition for quality control, and lily flower bud development especially needs sufficient light. Insufficient light causes poor plant growth and leads to lily bud drop, paler leaf and flower color, and shorter vase life. When growing lilies in winter in northern China, about 25-30% of sunlight is blocked by insulating materials such as glass or plastic film, so besides keeping the glass and plastic film surfaces clean for good light transmission, some varieties also need supplemental lighting, which can be provided with incandescent lamps. In good modern greenhouses, horticultural high-pressure sodium lamps should be used. When producing lilies in summer, strong direct sunlight must also be avoided, generally using shade nets. Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum are shaded 40%, and Oriental lilies 50%.
5. Carbon dioxide: Carbon dioxide benefits lily growth and flowering. On sunny mornings at 8-10 o'clock, in an unventilated greenhouse, apply carbon dioxide gas pills to increase the carbon dioxide content in the greenhouse. Other methods can also be used, for example: hang a plastic bucket every 15-20 meters (the bucket should be 1 meter above the ground), fill the bucket with a 20% sodium bicarbonate solution (the common household baking soda is sodium bicarbonate), then gradually pour the prepared 10% dilute sulfuric acid solution into each plastic bucket in 3-4 portions. Sodium bicarbonate reacts with sulfuric acid to produce carbon dioxide gas. A solar greenhouse 60 meters long and 7 meters wide requires 1.7kg of pure sodium bicarbonate and 1kg of concentrated sulfuric acid (98% concentration).
Six. Harvesting and storage of lily cut flowers
1. Harvesting: Harvest only after at least 2-3 buds have shown color. Harvesting too early affects flower color, making the flowers look pale and unattractive, and some buds will not open. Harvesting too late makes post-harvest handling and packaging difficult, the petals get stained by pollen, and opened flowers release ethylene, greatly shortening the vase life.
2. Handling: After harvesting, remove the lower 10cm of leaves, then grade and bundle. A grading interval of 10cm is appropriate. In a bundle of lilies, the longest and shortest stems should preferably differ by no more than 5cm, with the flower tops aligned.
3. Storage: Bundled lilies should immediately be placed in clean, pre-cooled water, then put into a cold room. The temperature of the water and the cold room should preferably be 2-3°C.
Seven. Common lily pests and diseases and their control methods
1. Lily fungal diseases
(1) Penicillium rot
Symptoms: During storage, white spots grow on the rotten spots of the scales, then fuzzy green-blue patches grow. After infection, decay gradually increases even at a low temperature of -2°C. The pathogen will eventually invade the basal plate of the bulb, making the bulb worthless or causing stunted plant growth. Although infected bulbs look unhealthy, as long as the basal plate is intact, plant growth during cultivation will not be affected. After planting, the infection does not transfer to the stem, nor does it infect the plant from the soil.
Control: Store bulbs at the recommended minimum temperature; do not plant bulbs whose basal plates have already been damaged. Infected bulbs must be soaked in a 1/1000 aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim or similar fungicide for 30 minutes before planting. After planting, maintain a suitable soil temperature.
(2) Bulb and scale rot and stem disease caused by Fusarium
Symptoms: Plants with bulb and scale rot grow very slowly, and the leaves are pale green. Underground, brown spots appear at the top of the scales, on the sides, or where the scales join the basal plate, and these spots gradually begin to rot. If the basal plate is infected, the entire bulb will rot. Stem disease caused by Fusarium is a disease that infects the aboveground parts. The identifying sign is that the basal leaves turn yellow before maturity, and the yellowed leaves turn brown and drop. On the underground part of the stem, orange to dark brown spots appear, which then enlarge and finally extend into the interior of the stem. The stem then rots, and finally the plant dies before maturity.
Control: a. Disinfect infected soil; b. Plant lightly or moderately infected bulbs as quickly as possible, and keep the soil temperature low.
(3) Rhizoctonia
Symptoms: If the infection is mild, it only harms the leaves in the soil and the green leaves at the lower part of young shoots, with sunken light brown spots appearing on the leaves. Generally, although plant growth is somewhat affected, it can still continue to grow. In severely infected plants, the upper growth is hindered, and the white underground leaves as well as the lowest aboveground leaves rot or wilt and drop, leaving only brown scars on the stem.
Control: Disinfect soil suspected of infection with a soil disinfectant. After disinfection, make sure the soil is not reinfected. If the previous crop has already shown infection, ordinary soil disinfectants cannot be used, so pre-treat the soil before planting with an agent against Rhizoctonia (fully incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10cm).
(4) Phytophthora
Symptoms: Phytophthora foot rot hinders growth or causes sudden wilting. Soft rot develops at the infected area at the stem base, becoming dark green to dark brown and spreading upward, with leaves turning yellow and the stem base beginning to lose color. Similar soft rot infections often occur on the aboveground stem, causing the stem to collapse or bend.
Control: Disinfect infected soil with a general soil disinfectant; during cultivation, fungicides that control Pythium can also effectively control foot rot; ensure good soil drainage; prevent the crop from remaining wet for long periods after watering; keep soil temperature as low as possible in summer.
(5) Pythium
Symptoms: These fungi attack both individual plants and plants in an area. Plants are stunted, lower leaves turn yellow, upper leaves become narrower and paler, and often wilt. In plants affected by root rot, flower buds shrink and dry. When the plant is pulled up, transparent, light brown rot spots can be seen on the bulb and root crown, or they have completely become soft and rotten.
Control: Disinfect infected or suspected soil with a general soil disinfectant; keep soil temperature low at the beginning of cultivation, and use correct cultivation practices throughout the growing period. Cultivation in boxes containing potting soil and peat can keep Pythium under control.
After the crop has emerged, or where Pythium infection may have occurred, fungicides against Pythium that are easy to spray onto the crop can be used, preferably in the evening. Spraying water for a few minutes (about three minutes) before applying the fungicide will significantly enhance its effect, and can also wash the crop clean.
2. Abnormal phenomena
(1) Leaf scorch
Symptoms: First, young leaves curl slightly inward, and several days later yellow to white spots appear on the scorched leaves. If leaf scorch is mild, the plant can continue to grow normally, but if it is severe, the white spots can turn brown, and the leaves bend where the damage occurred. In very severe cases, all leaves and young shoots drop, and the plant will not develop further. This is called the most severe scorch. Control: Keep the soil moist before planting; it is best not to use susceptible varieties; planting depth should be suitable, with 6-10cm of soil above the bulb; during periods of increased sensitivity, avoid large differences in temperature and relative humidity in the greenhouse, and try to keep relative humidity around 75%.
(2) Bud drop and bud shriveling
Symptoms: Bud drop occurs when buds reach 1-2cm. The bud color turns pale green, and at the same time the pedicel connecting it to the stem shortens, after which the bud drops. In spring, the lower buds are affected first, while in autumn the upper buds drop first.
Control: Do not grow varieties prone to bud drop in poorly lit environments. To prevent bud shriveling, the bulbs must not dry out during cultivation. Ensure the bulbs have a good root system and let them grow under conditions as suitable as possible, with particular attention to light and transpiration.
★How to grow potted lilies
How to grow potted lilies is something many flower lovers who want to grow lilies themselves want to know. Many articles online are very theoretical, leaving flower lovers feeling uncertain, so let's use a practical case to explain in detail how to grow lilies in pots.
A brief introduction first: Lilies are perennial herbaceous bulbous plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae, mainly distributed in temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere such as eastern Asia, Europe, and North America. More than a hundred varieties have been discovered worldwide. China is their most important place of origin, with more than fifty native species, making it the natural distribution center of the genus Lilium.
I. The materials needed for planting lilies are as follows:
1. Soil. Lilies are not very strict about soil; as long as it does not waterlog, it is fine. Ordinary garden soil works too, and of course nutrient soil is even better. If you want to cut corners, peat is also perfectly acceptable.
2. Pot. This needs attention: lily roots are quite developed, so a relatively deep and large pot is suitable; small pots are not suitable! In the case below, a 2-gallon pot is used.
3. Location choice. Some flower lovers may ask, can I keep them on a balcony with no light? I plan to grow them on a rooftop terrace, is that okay? It should be noted here that lilies prefer a cool and humid environment, and places with ample sunlight or slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They dislike drought and extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The growth and flowering temperature for lilies is 16-24°C; below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Only above 10°C do plants grow normally, and above 25°C growth stagnates again. If the winter nighttime temperature is below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
II. First, a little eye candy
The bulbs in the picture below are lily bulbs just received a few days ago. They look pretty good, right! I got five in total but won't post them one by one; several hundred flower lovers on the forum joined the group buy!III. Planting process
First: I planned to divide my 5 bulbs between 2 flower pots. I first checked the colors of the bulbs: Siberia has 2 (this is because another variety was originally detained by customs and this was a substitute), white; Marlon is pink. Yelloween is yellow, and Tiber is also pink. I plan to plant Siberia and Marlon in a white flower pot, and the other three varieties in a 2+ pot, so they can look striking when they bloom.
Second: First clean the flower pot thoroughly, lay breathable coarse coal cinder at the bottom, and cover with soil on top.
Third: Sprinkle some phosphorus fertilizer on the soil (bone meal can also be used as a substitute). If you don't have bone meal, chicken manure can also be used as a substitute to ensure nutrition for flowering.
Fourth: Cover with soil again. After covering with soil, sprinkle carbendazim. (I carefully checked the root bulbs and found no mold. Flower lovers who received diseased root bulbs can soak the root bulbs in carbendazim before planting.)
Fifth: Cover with soil again and place the root bulbs in. You can use scissors to cut off the already dried root system, then cover with soil. Generally, it can be level with the upper sprout of the root bulb. Leave a distance between the soil surface and the pot rim for future filling. This depth is not enough.
Sixth: Water thoroughly and place in a cool, open-air location.IV. Troubleshooting during the planting process
Overall, lilies are very easy to grow. As long as the bulbs are bought correctly, the flowering and survival rate is almost 100%. The growth period generally lasts about 90-150 days depending on the variety.
1. How many lilies can be planted in one pot?
It depends on the size of the pot. For a 2-gallon pot with a diameter of about 25 cm, planting 1-3 bulbs is fine!
2. Can lilies bloom again?
Whether lilies bloom again mainly depends on the first year of planting. If the first year's planting is good, there is no problem with reblooming the second year.
3. Are lilies very fragrant?
Different lily varieties have different fragrance intensities. Whether a specific one is fragrant can be determined according to the variety description at the time of purchase.
★Lily cultivation techniques
Authors: Zhu Yunyi, Yang Ming
Lily is a bulbous herbaceous plant of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. The lily stem is upright and elegant, the leaves are emerald green, the flower shape is unique, the flowers are large and colorful, and the colors are elegant. Lilies carry the meaning of a hundred years of harmony, making them very endearing, and they are one of the bulbous flowers widely cultivated at home and abroad. Domestic introduction and cultivation of lilies are gradually expanding, and market sales are increasingly active.
I. Morphological characteristics
Lily is a perennial herbaceous plant. The bulb is a non-tunicate bulb, spherical, pale white, formed by the aggregation of several fleshy, thick, ovate-spatulate scales; the stem is upright, with stem roots at underground nodes, cylindrical or angular, the aboveground stem is upright and robust, green and smooth, with a stem diameter of 3-10 mm and a plant height of 70-200 cm; leaves are scattered or alternate, sessile, lanceolate to elliptic-lanceolate, entire, with a total of more than 100 leaves; flowers are borne singly in several leaf axils at the top of the stem, 1-10 in number, large, trumpet-shaped, with different colors and fragrances depending on the variety.
II. Requirements for environmental conditions
1. Temperature. Lilies prefer a warm and sunny environment, are relatively cold-tolerant, and fear high temperatures, strong light, and high humidity. The suitable growth temperature for lilies is 15-25°C. Below 10°C, growth is slow; above 30°C, growth is poor and leaf scorch occurs. During growth, the best temperatures are 21-23°C during the day and 15-17°C at night. However, the bulb has a dormant period and must be stored at a low temperature of 3-7°C for 4-6 weeks to break bulb dormancy; only then can it sprout after planting.
2. Light. Lilies prefer soft light and are also tolerant of strong light and semi-shade. Insufficient light can cause flower bud drop. With sufficient light, plants are robust, shorter, and the flowers are more vivid. Lilies are long-day plants; long light hours cause earlier flowering, while short light hours delay flowering.
3. Water. When planting lily bulbs, the furrow should be filled with 3/4 water so that water fully penetrates the bed surface. After that, if water is lacking, irrigate with running water and keep the soil moist for a long time. This can increase the emergence rate of bulbs, make emergence uniform, and benefit stem and leaf growth.
4. Nutrients. Lilies are bulbous cut flower plants that prefer phosphorus and potassium and avoid excessive nitrogen. Sufficient phosphorus and potassium help improve flower quality and the formation and plumpness of bulbs. Excessive nitrogen is unfavorable for flower and bulb formation, resulting in poor and weak flower quality. Fertilization should be mainly organic fertilizer, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, with nitrogen fertilizer as a supplement.
III. Cultivation techniques
1. Reasonably arrange the planting period. At present, lilies are planted in Hunan, Sichuan, Henan, Jiangsu, Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Zhejiang, Guangdong and other places in China. We should make full use of the unique winter climate conditions in the south and schedule the harvest period from late December to May 1, trying to avoid competing in the market with lilies grown in other provinces, striving to sell at a good price and obtain greater income and better economic benefits. From planting to harvest and market, lilies generally take 80-130 days. Early planting (such as before the Autumn Equinox) means high temperature, long sunshine, and strong light, shortening the time from planting to harvest; late planting (such as after Cold Dew) means low temperature, short sunshine, and weak light, extending the time from planting to harvest. If the goal is to market at Christmas, plant in mid-to-late September; for Spring Festival marketing, plant in mid-to-late October.
2. Select land, prepare the soil finely, and apply sufficient base fertilizer. Choose plots with deep soil layers, loose and fertile soil, high and resistant terrain, and good drainage. Planting lilies in semi-shady, semi-sunny plots with slightly acidic soil is even better. Lilies should not be continuous cropped, and fields previously planted with peppers, eggplants, and other crops should not be selected; leguminous or grass crops are preferable.
3. Build frames and cover with shade nets. In order to meet the light, temperature, and humidity requirements of lilies during growth, and because lilies prefer soft light (semi-shade) and fear high temperatures and strong light, after preparing the land and making the beds, frames should be built and shade nets covered before the bulbs emerge. Shade nets with 70-80% shading are best. For planting from April to August, an additional layer of shade net should be added to reduce field temperature and light intensity, increase field humidity, avoid or reduce high-temperature and strong-light damage to plant leaves, and promote plant and leaf growth. However, when the daytime maximum temperature drops to 26°C (generally early December), the shade net should be removed to increase light intensity and promote plant and leaf growth. When the average temperature is below 10°C, nylon film should be covered again to increase temperature and preserve moisture, ensuring normal lily growth and harvest and flowering as expected.
4. Reasonable close planting. Because lilies tolerate semi-shade, they can be planted more densely on the basis of sufficient base fertilizer. Generally, 12,000-18,000 bulbs can be planted per mu, with a plant-row spacing of 15-20 × 10-15 cm, and a planting depth of 10 cm (at least 3 times the height of the bulb) to prevent sunlight from burning the root system. After planting, spray butachlor immediately to control early weeds in the field.
5. Field management. After full emergence, before the seedlings reach 20 cm, in combination with intertillage and weeding, apply 500 kg of human and animal manure and 10 kg of superphosphate per mu, or apply 10-15 kg of high-quality compound fertilizer (containing 15% each of nitrogen, P2O5, and K2O) plus 5 kg of urea. The fertilizer solution concentration should be dilute rather than concentrated; too high a concentration easily damages roots and inhibits growth. Apply frequently and lightly, once every 8-10 days. When topdressing, avoid the fertilizer solution directly contacting the bulbs and stems to prevent rot of the bulbs and stems. If the fertilizer solution splashes onto the plant leaves, spray clean water immediately after application to wash it off the leaves to avoid leaf and plant damage. However, when the winter temperature drops below 8°C, fertilization should be stopped and resumed when the temperature rises. After lily emergence, deep cultivation and weeding should no longer be carried out to avoid damaging the root system; weeds should be pulled as soon as they appear to prevent weed damage.
6. Water management. Because lilies like moisture, fear waterlogging, and avoid drought, ditches should be cleaned frequently in rainy weather to drain accumulated water, and irrigation should be done in drought to maintain moisture, ensuring that after people walk into the furrow pits, footprints remain (but the feet do not sink), the surface soil of the bed does not turn white, the surface soil between beds forms a ball when grasped by hand, and when released from one meter above the ground, the mud ball breaks apart upon landing.
7. Timely prevention and control of pests and diseases. Lilies have relatively few pests and diseases. The main diseases include anthracnose, gray mold, damping-off, root rot, and bulb rot. Anthracnose can be controlled with chlorothalonil, Score, Rovral, anthracnose thiram, etc.; gray mold can be controlled with mancozeb, procymidone, 50% iprodione, chlorothalonil, or 1% Bordeaux mixture; for damping-off, first remove diseased plants, then control with 1% Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil, thiram, etc.; for root rot and bulb rot, mix seeds with 0.5% quintozene before planting to prevent disease occurrence, and in the early stage of disease, drench or spray with 50% amobam 300-500 times solution. For disease control in lilies, spray once every 7-10 days for 2-3 consecutive sprays. The main insect pests are aphids and white grubs. Aphids and white grubs often gather on tender leaves and flower buds to suck sap, causing plants to wither and grow poorly. They can be controlled with fenvalerate, omethoate, imidacloprid, Dagongshen, etc. When controlling pests and diseases, it is best to add some foliar fertilizer, which both controls pests and diseases and promotes plant and leaf growth.
8. Harvest bulbs at the right time. When the underground bulbs expand, become plump and full, and the aboveground plant leaves yellow or even dry up and fall off, the bulbs can be harvested. Keep the root system of the harvested bulbs, remove loose soil, grade and stack them, and later pack them into cold storage for low-temperature treatment.
★Cultivation techniques for Oriental lilies
With the improvement of people's living standards, the sales volume of fresh flowers is increasing. In 2007, we introduced and successfully cultivated Oriental lilies in small batches. The cultivation techniques are introduced as follows:
1 Soil preparation
Deeply plow the soil 30 cm, apply 2-3 m3 of peat or decomposed fallen pine needles, 3-5 kg of ferrous sulfate, and 500-1000 kg of organic fertilizer such as expanded chicken manure per 667 m2, so that the soil pH is slightly acidic at 6-6.5; and add 1.5-2.5 kg of thiram or 2000-3000 ml of soil fungicide for disinfection.
2 Bed making
Make raised beds 20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide, with a 40 cm walkway between two beds, and the length depending on the land.
3 Planting
The planting time should be determined by two indicators: the flower supply time and the growth cycle of the variety. Be sure to use bulbs whose dormancy has already broken. The dormancy period varies by variety. Generally, after the leaves yellow and the bulbs are lifted, 80-120 days in an environment of 0-4°C can break dormancy. For bulb disinfection, mix with carbendazim at 5-10 g/kg, or soak in a 2% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 10 minutes before planting. When planting, first scrape the top 8 cm or so of soil on the bed surface to one side, then use a nail board or tree root sized to the proper dimensions to make holes at fixed distances. Generally, for medium-sized bulbs, the density in spring and autumn is 13 cm × 13 cm; for large bulbs increase by 1 cm, and for small bulbs decrease by 1 cm. In winter the spacing is slightly larger, and in summer it is denser. Generally, about 20,000 bulbs are planted per 667 m2. After making the holes, place the bulbs on the holes, then fill back the bed soil that was scraped to one side and rake it level.
4 Water management
After planting, water thoroughly with drip irrigation or sprinkler irrigation. Except in summer, flood irrigation is prohibited. After that, water the seedbed whenever it dries, until it connects with the lower moist soil. Avoid water accumulation to prevent root rot. In too dry weather, spray water on the leaves to maintain relative air humidity at about 70%.
5 Temperature management
From planting to emergence, bulbs need 20-30 days, during which the temperature should be about 12°C to facilitate rooting. After emergence, raise the temperature; otherwise, plants are prone to infection by multiple diseases. Therefore, winter production requires heating with oil furnaces or small boilers, and summer requires cooling by pulling shade nets or covering the ground with grass.
6 Light management
When planting lilies in winter, try to choose day-neutral lilies rather than long-day lilies, while in spring, summer, and autumn, long-day varieties are also acceptable. Lilies prefer light and are not tolerant of shade. Supplementary lighting in winter produces better growth; if not supplementing light, open the straw curtains as early as possible and cover them late to extend the lighting time. In summer, if a shade net with 30% shading can be used to block part of the strong light, it helps lilies grow faster and increase flower size.
7 Nutrition management
Start topdressing after the small seedlings grow stems and the leaves expand. Apply chemical fertilizer once every 10-15 days, using 4-5 kg each of diammonium phosphate and potassium nitrate mixed per 667 m2. When the plant height is 60 cm, spray 2%-3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves every 7-10 days. If the leaves overall turn yellow, spray 0.5% urea; if small leaves turn yellow, spray 0.1% ferrous sulfate, while adding trace fertilizers such as copper and zinc. When flower buds are 6 cm long, stop topdressing.
8 Pest and disease control
The main diseases of lilies include black spot, gray mold, and rust, which can be controlled by spraying 25% carbendazim wettable powder 500 times solution; insect pests include white grubs and aphids, which can be controlled by spraying 25% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution.
★Open-field cultivation techniques for lilies
Open-field cultivation is also a commonly used production method for cut lily flowers. It has the advantages of low production cost and simple cultivation management, but the disadvantages of open-field cultivation are also obvious: the flowering period is not easy to control, and low product quality are the main factors affecting open-field production of cut lilies.
1. Land selection
For open-field lily cultivation, choose land with high, refreshing terrain, good drainage, and loose soil. High-altitude cool mountainous areas or areas by lakes, rivers, and peninsulas are ideal locations for growing lilies. Northwestern Yunnan Province, Xichang in Sichuan, the Qinba Mountains in Shaanxi, Anshan in Liaoning, and Lanzhou in Gansu in China can all serve as bases for open-field production of cut lilies.
Soil improvement
Generally speaking, the soil used for lily production does not occupy as vast an area as that for grain crops. If the soil texture is unsuitable, local soil replacement can be used to create a suitable soil environment. When locally replacing soil for a lily plot, first dig out the original soil in the rows where lilies will be planted, and add soft, good soil media. So-called soil media refer to artificially prepared materials used to replace soil. Commonly used soil media include pine needle soil, peat, fermented sawdust, vermiculite, perlite, etc. Mix these materials with soil in a certain proportion and fill them into the planting furrows for lilies, then plant the lilies. In addition, attention should be paid to measuring the soil pH of the cultivation site.
How to improve soil pH: 6 weeks before planting, take soil samples for analysis and determine salt and oxide content, pH, and nutrient content. If salt and chlorine content exceed standards, large amounts of irrigation water must be used to dilute the salts in the soil. Maintaining the correct pH helps lily roots absorb nutrients from the soil. Mixing peat with topsoil can lower pH, and using ammonium fertilizer and urea can also lower pH. In addition, adding a small amount of sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate to the soil can also help lower soil pH. If the soil pH is too low, mix lime-containing compounds or magnesium lime with the soil before planting. After using lime, wait at least 1 week before planting. During the growth stage, it is best to use nitrate nitrogen fertilizer, which can raise pH.
2. Crop rotation
In order to prevent the massive occurrence of lily pests and diseases, crop rotation should be implemented. Before planting, an overall plan should be made for the land, and plots used for cut lily cultivation should be rotated every year. During rotation, the previous crop should not be bulbous flowers of the Liliaceae or Amaryllidaceae families; planting leguminous plants is most suitable.
Base fertilizer
The fertilizer applied before lily planting is base fertilizer, generally organic fertilizer with long-lasting effects. There are two ways to prepare base fertilizer: one is to mix the soil with 1/3 various humus fertilizers (organic fertilizer mixed from decomposed leaf mold, compost, peat, cake fertilizer, etc.) to form a 30 cm deep furrow, first spread the above mixed soil in the furrow, then plant the lilies. Lilies planted in this mixed soil generally grow better. The mixed soil both improves the soil and achieves the purpose of applying base fertilizer.
3. Planting
Planting period: Open-field lilies are mostly planted in autumn, while cold regions use spring planting.
Taking Beijing's climatic conditions as an example, the lowest temperature in January in winter is generally 8-15°C, and most cut lily varieties can overwinter in the open field. Summers are relatively hot, with the maximum temperature in July reaching 33-36°C. Therefore, lilies are in a semi-dormant period during this time. According to Beijing's climatic characteristics, lilies can be planted in autumn or spring. Autumn planting is generally carried out in September-October when the temperature drops noticeably. Autumn-planted lilies develop good root systems, grow robustly, and have more flowers the following year. Spring planting is generally carried out in March-April when the temperature begins to rise. They sprout in April-May and bolt and form buds in May-June. From mid-June to the end of July is the peak flowering season for open-field cut lilies.
The flowering period of autumn-planted lilies and spring-planted lilies differs little, but the stem height and flower number of spring-planted lilies are inferior to those of autumn-planted lilies.
Topdressing
Topdressing for open-field lilies should be carried out in the early growth stage, late growth stage, and bud stage respectively. In the early growth stage, apply 37.5 kg of diammonium phosphate and 75 kg of urea per hectare; in the late growth stage, apply 75 kg of diammonium phosphate and 22.5 kg of potassium dihydrogen phosphate per hectare. The fertilization method is to dissolve the above fertilizers in water and irrigate. In the bud stage, apply 22.5 kg of potassium sulfate, 30 kg of potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and 0.3 kg of boric acid per hectare, sprayed on the leaves at 0.1%.
Irrigation
Open-field lilies can obtain part of their water from natural rainfall, but because it is often not timely, it is far from enough to meet the normal growth and development needs of the plants, especially in dry seasons, when timely irrigation is even more important. For open-field lilies, methods such as flood irrigation, sprinkler irrigation, and drip irrigation can be chosen according to local conditions. Flood irrigation directly introduces water onto the bed surface and causes soil compaction. Sprinkler irrigation distributes water evenly and can increase air humidity. Drip irrigation uses a low-pressure pipeline system to make irrigation water drip slowly and continuously into the soil within the range of plant root activity. Modern cut flower cultivation often combines sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation: sprinkler irrigation creates a suitable air humidity environment for plant growth, while drip irrigation supplies the water needed for plant root activity. The amount, frequency, and timing of irrigation often vary according to season, soil texture, and cultivated variety. As for the amount of water per irrigation, the principle should be thorough watering and moderation. In summer, temperatures are high and evaporation is large, so irrigation frequency should be greater; in autumn and early [spring], water demand is lower, so watering should be minimized as much as possible, and one freezing-water irrigation should be given before freezing. Clay soil should be irrigated less frequently, while sandy soil should be irrigated more frequently. During the day, in summer, irrigation should be done in the morning and evening, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is relatively small, so as not to affect root activity.
4. Intertillage and weeding
Open-field lilies often experience soil compaction after rainfall or watering, which is unfavorable for root growth. In addition, because weeds have strong reproductive capacity, they grow together with lily plants and compete for water, nutrients, sunlight, and space, and can also lead to pest and disease occurrence in lily plants. Therefore, timely intertillage and weeding are necessary to create a good living environment for lily plant growth.
Intertillage should be carried out in combination with loosening the soil after irrigation. The depth of intertillage should be: shallow hoeing at the seedling stage to prevent root damage; shallow hoeing near the plants, and deep hoeing in the rows away from the plants. When lilies grow luxuriantly and the field closes in, there is no need to loosen the soil further.
Weeding should be done as early as possible in the initial stage of weed occurrence, and weeds must be completely removed before they set seed. For weeding methods, small areas are mainly hand-weeded, while large areas can use mechanical or chemical weeding.
5. Netting and staking
Open-field lilies are often susceptible to unfavorable weather such as wind, rain, and hail, so nets and stakes must be set up in time to prevent plants from lodging.
6. Topdressing
Lilies are potassium-loving crops. According to nutrient analysis of Yixing lilies at various growth stages, K2O content was the highest, with the average content in aboveground stems and leaves at each growth stage being 3.76%, which is 5.55 times the K2O5 content and 1.59 times the N content; the average K2O content in underground bulbs at each growth stage was 2.16%, which is 4.48 times the K20 content and 1.59 times the N content. The seedling stage is the period with the highest K2O content among all growth stages, with 4.70% in stems and leaves and 2.88% in bulbs. The ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in lilies at various growth stages shows that the period with the highest K2O proportion in aboveground stems and leaves and bulbs is the middle and late growth stages of lilies, namely the bulb harvest period and full flowering period (the beginning of decline of aboveground stems and leaves). The ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in aboveground stems and leaves were 1:0.20:1.98 and 1:0.22:2.22, respectively; the ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in bulbs were 1:0.41:1.79 and 1:0.34:1.66. Traditional cultivation of Yixing lilies uses straw mulching and application of organic fertilizers such as pig manure and cake fertilizer, which can supply large amounts of potassium. Generally, about 450 kg of dry straw is covered per mu. Experiments have shown that without straw mulching, yield decreases by 14.48%. Applying more potassium fertilizer to lilies can promote rooting during overwintering and growth at the seedling stage, meeting the potassium peak demand of lily plants in the middle and late stages. Potassium can promote the synthesis and transport of carbohydrates in the crop. When potassium supply is sufficient, the content of lignin, cellulose, and starch in lilies increases, and the carbohydrates formed by photosynthesis are quickly transported to the bulbs, promoting bulb expansion. Experiments show that applying 15 kg, 10 kg of potassium sulfate and 75 kg of plant ash per mu generally increases yield by 10% compared with the control. Among them, plant ash gave the highest yield. In potassium-deficient fields, applying potassium fertilizer increases yield even more significantly, with the highest increase reaching 54.29%, and each kilogram of potassium sulfate can increase lily yield by 32.76 kg. When lilies emerge, new daughter bulbs are also differentiating and developing in the heart buds of the seed bulbs, so it is necessary to promote strong seedlings and early growth in the early stage. After repeated experiments, lily fertilizer management should adhere to the principles of "heavy at the front, controlled in the middle, and supplemented at the end" and the two "mainly" fertilization methods, namely mainly organic fertilizer, applied at planting time and before emergence, accounting for more than 70% of the total fertilization amount. Generally, base fertilizer per mu includes about 450 kg of dry straw, 2.5 tons of high-quality pig manure, 50-75 kg of decomposed cake fertilizer, 30 kg of standard nitrogen chemical fertilizer, 20-30 kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15-20 kg of potassium fertilizer. When hilling soil before emergence, apply 50 kg of cake fertilizer, 15 kg of standard nitrogen chemical fertilizer, 10 kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15 kg of potassium fertilizer per mu (or 30-40 kg of ternary compound fertilizer alone). If there is no potassium fertilizer, increase plant ash by 100 kg. For Yixing lilies with a yield of more than 1000 kg per mu, the total fertilization amount is 42.7 kg of pure nitrogen, K2O514.1kg K2O56.2kg, and the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is 1:0.33:1.32. Experiments with different amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium chemical fertilizers show that the optimal application rate of chemical nitrogen fertilizer is K2O5,6kg per mu, and chemical potassium K2O7.5-22.5kg. The suitable soil pH for lily growth is 5.7-6.3. Soils around the Taihu region are generally neutral to acidic, with pH between 6.5 and 5.0. The results of experiments on types of phosphate fertilizer show that calcium magnesium phosphate is more effective than superphosphate. Lily bulbs are tender and fresh. Affected by the free acid in superphosphate, the rate of lily rot and missing plants increases, with severe disease, an incidence rate as high as 60%, and a disease index as high as 52.5%, reducing yield by 4.6% compared with calcium magnesium phosphate, and the bulb color is also poor. On alkaline soil with pH above 7.5, applying superphosphate can appropriately adjust soil pH and benefit lily growth.
★Cultivation of Oriental lilies
Oriental lilies, also known as perfume lilies, are one of the ten most popular fresh flowers in the world today. Because of their beautiful flower shape, bright colors, and rich fragrance, they are ideal materials for gift bouquets, flower baskets, and artistic flower arrangements. Since China's reform and opening up, development has been rapid. Especially in recent years, due to the sharp increase in fresh flower usage in China, their planting area has continued to expand, and Oriental lilies have become an indispensable category among fresh flowers. The cultivation techniques are introduced as follows:
I. Land selection, bed preparation, and disinfection
(1) Land selection. Because Oriental lily bulbs degenerate quickly and have strict requirements for the cultivation environment, suitable planting areas are hard to find, so the selection of planting land is also of utmost importance. Oriental lilies prefer cool, humid climates and semi-shaded environments. The soil should be deep, loose, well-drained, rich in humus, and slightly acidic.
(2) Bed preparation. The bed surface is generally prepared to a width of 1-1.2 m and a height of 25-30 cm, with a ditch width of 40 cm between beds. Before preparing the beds, apply 1-1.3 tons of humus soil or pig manure per simple greenhouse (30 m × 5.5 m), sprinkle 2 kg of carbofuran or phoxim (used to kill underground pests), water to loosen the soil, and mix it thoroughly.
(3) Disinfection. Because Oriental lilies are extremely susceptible to stem rot, Phytophthora blight, leaf blight, and gray mold, prevention should be the priority, starting with soil control. Commonly used methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. a. Steam disinfection: bury heat-resistant plastic pipes with small holes 30 cm below the bed surface, cover the bed surface with film, then introduce steam and continue fumigating for 1 hour. b. Chemical disinfection: generally use 40% formalin diluted into a 1:50 solution and splash it on the bed surface at 25-30 kg/M. After splashing, cover with plastic film for 2 days, then uncover the film and air-dry for 10 days. Planting can only begin after the chemical vapor has completely dissipated.
II. Cultivation management
(1) Treatment of bulbs. Before planting, pick the bulbs out of the bulb boxes. Handle them gently to prevent breaking the sprouts. At the same time, check bulb quality and remove unqualified bulbs such as those with broken sprouts or rot, or with rotten scales or basal plates. Soak the bulbs in a 500-800 times solution of fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, or carbendazim for 15-20 minutes.
(2) Planting time. In order to bloom at Spring Festival and Valentine's Day, planting should generally be carried out in mid-October and early November. When planting, it is best to plant before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m.
(3) Planting density and depth. Generally, the plant spacing is 10-15 cm and the row spacing is 15-18 cm; the planting depth is about 6-8 cm above the sprout point. After planting, cover the surface with a layer of sawdust and fallen leaves, cover with a shade net, and water thoroughly.
(4) Make labels and records. After planting, labels should also be made, indicating specifications and planting date. Hang two thermohygrometers in each greenhouse, one at the front and one in the middle, and prepare a record book. Observe the thermohygrometers three times a day and keep records.
(5) Precautions
1. The sprout point of the planted bulb should be vertical to the ground and pointing upward.
2. Lower the soil temperature before planting.
3. The Oriental lilies we plant in Guangxi are generally air-freighted from Kunming and have already been thawed, so they should be planted as soon as possible, minimizing time left in the open field, and preferably planted within two days.
4. After the small seedlings grow 2 cm above the ground, straighten improperly growing seedlings in time. This critical period must be strictly grasped. If this opportunity is missed, straightening the seedlings later easily damages the root system, and not straightening them will seriously affect the survival quality of Oriental lilies.
(6) Water and fertilizer management. When planting Oriental lilies, sprinkle 5 kg of superphosphate in each greenhouse. Then, from planting until emergence, generally do not fertilize, but keep the soil moist, with the standard that when soil is grasped in the hand, no water seeps out. Avoid excessive dryness or waterlogging. Especially during the rooting period and harvest period, water demand is relatively large, and the soil especially must not be too dry. When seedlings grow to 10-15 cm, begin applying the first fertilizer, then apply once a week, adhering to the principle of frequent light application. At the same time, in each greenhouse, select several representative plants of each specification and measure their height, leaf length and width, and leaf number every three days, and keep records, so as to adjust and determine the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer for the next application. Generally, in the early and middle stages, apply more compound fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and calcium, with a ratio of 10:15:8, to promote seedling growth and rooting; in the middle and late stages, emphasize compound fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, with a ratio of 8:10:20, to help increase stem hardness; spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 10 days at a concentration of 0.1%. At the same time, pay attention to watering, avoid excessive dryness or waterlogging, and maintain air humidity at 50%-80%.
Precautions: It is strictly forbidden to pour fertilizer onto the leaves. If fertilizer is accidentally poured onto the leaves, rinse quickly with clean water to avoid burning the leaves and affecting quality.
(7) Temperature management. The maximum temperature must not exceed 30°C, and the minimum must not be lower than 5°C. The most suitable soil temperature is 12-15°C. If it exceeds 18°C or falls below 10°C, it is unfavorable for roots. After rooting, the temperature can be raised, maintained at 18-25°C during the day and 12-18°C at night. If it is too high during the day, it will reduce plant height, reduce the number of buds per stem, and produce a large number of blind flowers. If the nighttime temperature is below 12°C, it will cause bud drop or leaf yellowing, reducing ornamental value.
(8) Light management. The development of Oriental lily flower buds especially requires sufficient light conditions, but too high a temperature will burn the leaves and reduce the ornamental effect.
(9) Netting and staking. In addition to the color, shape, and petal texture of the flowers themselves, the height standard of Oriental lilies also requires the stems to be upright and straight. Oriental lilies have strong phototropism, and those cultivated in winter often lean southward and lodge, so nets and stakes must be set up in time. According to bulb specifications, for large bulbs, the first staking and netting are done when they grow to 20 cm, and the second when they grow to 45-50 cm; for small bulbs, the first staking and netting are done when they grow to 15 cm, and the second when they grow to 40-45 cm.
(10) Pest and disease control. Oriental lilies are prone to Phytophthora blight, gray mold, and stem blight. a. Pay attention to ventilation in the greenhouse and keep it clean; b. In the early stage of disease, immediately remove diseased plants and spray 1% Bordeaux mixture and 65% zineb 600 times solution, or use 800-1000 times solution of bactericidal agents (such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, agricultural streptomycin for bacteria, etc.) for root drenching or spraying; c. Usually focus on prevention and spray bactericidal agents once every 10-15 days. D. Insect pests are generally aphids, prevented with omethoate and derris extract, etc. After occurrence, spray 2-3 times continuously. Special attention: dichlorvos must not be used during the flowering period, otherwise it will damage the petals. Therefore, when aphids occur on the corolla, use deltamethrin or pyrethrum for control.
III. Harvest
For stems with 5-10 flower heads, 2 buds must be colored; for stems with fewer than 5 flower heads, at least one bud must be colored before harvest. The best harvest time is in the morning, which can reduce water loss and prevent buds from wilting easily. After harvest, insert them into clean water containing preservative as soon as possible to absorb water.