Detailed Guide to Soil Planting Methods and Water Culture Techniques for Clivia

Clivia is native to the tropical regions of southern Africa, growing beneath trees, so it fears both heat and cold, prefers a semi-shaded and humid environment, and dreads strong direct sunlight. Its optimal growing temperature is between 18 and 28°C; below 10°C or above 30°C, growth is inhibited. Clivia likes a well-ventilated environment and prefers deep, fertile, loose soil; it is suitable for growing in loose, fertile, slightly acidic organic soil. Clivia is a famous greenhouse flower, suitable for indoor cultivation. The cultivation methods for Clivia are described below:

Propagation Methods for Clivia

The commonly used propagation methods for Clivia are seed sowing and division.

1. Seed Sowing Propagation

The pollination method is: 2 to 3 days after the perianth splits open, when the flower bud is mature and the stigma secretes a sticky fluid, this is the time for pollination. When pollinating, use a new brush to pick up the pollen from the stamens and gently tap it onto the stigma of the pistil. To increase the seed-setting rate, pollinate once between 9 and 10 AM and once between 2 and 3 PM; the seeds will mature after about 8 to 9 months. When the fruit skin gradually turns from green to dark purple, cut off the fruit cluster, and after 10 to 20 days, remove the seeds. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water at 30 to 35°C for 20 to 30 minutes, then take them out and air-dry for 1 to 2 hours (at this point, it is even better if you can soak them in a 10% sodium phosphate solution for 20 to 30 minutes, then take them out, rinse them, and soak them in clean water for 10 to 15 hours), and they can then be sown into the potting soil. After sowing, place the pot in an environment at room temperature of 20 to 25°C and humidity of about 90%; the radicle will sprout in about 1 to 2 weeks.

Before carrying out seed sowing propagation, first prepare the potting soil. Many materials can be used to make potting soil, but one that is relatively easy to obtain is loose soil taken from the surface layer of woodland that is rich in humus, mixed with 1/3 clean fine sandy soil.

2. Division Propagation

Asexual propagation of flowers includes cuttings, division, layering, grafting, and other methods, but the asexual propagation of Clivia generally uses only the division method; this method is even more commonly used for Clivia nobilis. To propagate by division, first do several preparations:

① For home pot cultivation, prepare flower pots. Clay pots are best; do not buy porcelain or ceramic ones just because their surface looks attractive, because they have poor air permeability, which is not conducive to the plant's development and growth.

② Prepare the growing medium, and it is best to disinfect it. If using humus soil mixed with fine sand, the humus soil should be sprayed and disinfected with a 1000 to 2000 times water solution of potassium permanganate; the fine river sand should also be scalded and disinfected with boiling water to prevent the seedlings from being infected by pathogens and rotting.

③ Prepare a small amount of charcoal powder to apply to the wounds to absorb moisture and prevent rot.

④ Sharpen the cutting knife, and finally quickly dry-grind it on a whetstone (without adding water) several dozen times, so that the blade becomes very hot, in order to kill pathogens.

When dividing Clivia, first take the mother plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and find the lateral buds that can be divided. If the offset is growing on the outer edge of the mother plant and the plant body is relatively small, you can hold the bulb part with one hand and pinch the base of the offset with the other, give it a tear-and-pull, and the offset can be separated from the mother plant; if the offset is thick and strong and not easy to pull off, you should use the prepared sharp knife to cut it off. Never force it, so as not to damage the young plant. After the offset is cut off, immediately apply dry charcoal powder to the wound to absorb the flowing sap and prevent rot. Next, pot the offset. When planting, the planting depth should be such that the base of the offset's false bulb is buried, with the part near the seedling slightly higher, and cover with sterilized sandy soil. After planting, water thoroughly once, and when the wound has healed after 2 weeks, add another layer of potting soil. Generally, new roots grow after 1 to 2 months, and it blooms in 1 to 2 years. Clivia propagated by division has relatively stable heredity and can maintain the various characteristics of the original species.

The cultivation methods for Clivia are divided into soil culture methods and water culture methods. Below we will look specifically at these 2 cultivation methods.

Soil Culture Techniques for Clivia

Clivia is relatively easy to cultivate. First choose the pot soil well, and it can be placed indoors near a window, with fertilizer and water controlled according to the temperature characteristics of each region. During the growing period, the pot soil must be kept moist; during the high-temperature semi-dormant period, the pot soil should be on the drier side, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to achieve the purpose of cooling. Clivia likes fertilizer; every 2 to 3 years in spring and autumn, repot once and add decomposed cake fertilizer into the pot soil. Each year before the growing period, apply 5 to 40 grams of decomposed cake fertilizer beneath the pot surface soil, and apply liquid fertilizer once during growth. During management, frequently turn the pot to prevent the leaves from leaning to one side; if they lean to one side, promptly straighten them. When the temperature is 25 to 30°C, it easily causes excessive leaf growth, making the leaves narrow and long and affecting the ornamental effect, so when cultivating Clivia, be sure to regulate room temperature.

1. Soil

Clivia is suitable for soil rich in humus; this kind of soil has good air permeability, good water permeability, and is fertile and slightly acidic. The general soil mix for Clivia is 6 parts leaf mold, 2 parts pine needles, 1 part river sand or furnace ash slag, and 1 part base fertilizer (hemp seed, etc.). Leaf mold mainly refers to oak leaves, also called oak. This kind of leaf is thick in texture and is very good humus. It is nutritious and has good water permeability. Other leaves are too thin and disappear after decomposing, so they cannot be mixed with other media to make soil. When cultivating, use pots that gradually increase in size as the plant grows. For cultivating one-year-old seedlings, use a 3-inch pot. In the second year, change to a 5-inch pot, and afterward repot into a pot one size larger every 1 to 2 years. Repotting can be done in spring and autumn.

2. Watering

Clivia has relatively well-developed fleshy roots, and the roots store a certain amount of water, so this flower is relatively drought-tolerant. However, even drought-tolerant flowers cannot be severely short of water, especially in summer when high temperatures are combined with dry air; do not forget to water in time, otherwise the roots and leaves of the flower will be damaged, causing new leaves not to sprout and the original leaves to scorch, which not only affects flowering but may even cause the plant to die. However, too much watering will cause root rot. Therefore, it must be well controlled, and always pay attention to the dryness and wetness of the pot soil. When it becomes half-dry, water once, but the amount should not be too much; keeping the pot soil moist but not soggy is just right.

If conditions permit, magnetized water is of course best; next is rainwater, snow water, or living water from rivers; next is pond water; the worst is tap water. Flower growers living in large cities only have tap water available, so they can use a small water vat or basin or bucket, put the tap water in, and water after 2 to 3 days. This allows some harmful impurities in the water to settle. In addition, it can allow the substances contained in the water to be oxidized and purified, and can make the water temperature close to the pot soil temperature, so it will not be too cold or too hot and harm the plant.

3. Fertilizing

Many flowers like fertilizer, but fertilizing fertilizer-loving flowers also has a limit; too much fertilizer is not good for growth and may even cause root rot or scorching of the plant. Clivia also belongs to this type of plant, and appropriate fertilization must be achieved. Flowers have different nutrient requirements at different growth and development stages. Therefore, different fertilization methods suitable for the plant's needs should be adopted at each stage. Examples include base fertilizer, topdressing, and foliar fertilization.

① Apply base fertilizer (also called basal fertilizer). The purpose is to create conditions for plant growth and development and meet its nutrient needs. Base fertilizer for Clivia should be applied when repotting every 2 years. Apply commonly used manure (that is, poultry and livestock manure), compost, green manure, soybean cake fertilizer, etc. into the soil.

② Topdressing. It is mainly to promote plant growth. Clivia can be given fertilizers such as cake fertilizer, fish meal, and bone meal. Apply less at the initial planting stage, and later, as the plant grows larger and the leaves increase, the amount of fertilizer should gradually increase. When fertilizing, scrape open the pot soil and apply it into the soil at a depth of 2-3 cm, but note that the fertilizer applied should not be too close to the root system, so as not to burn the roots. Applying this kind of solid fertilizer once a month is generally enough; it should not be more frequent.

③ Apply liquid topdressing. Liquid topdressing is made by mixing the soaked and fermented clear supernatant of decomposed animal and plant materials with 30 to 40 parts clean water and then pouring it onto the pot soil. Small seedlings should be watered with a 40-fold dilution, medium seedlings with a 30-fold dilution, and large seedlings with only a 20-fold dilution. After applying the fertilizer liquid, water once with clean water 1 to 2 days later (the amount of water should not be too much), so that the fertilizer penetrates to the root system in the pot soil and fully exerts its fertilizer effect. Do not water 1 to 2 days before applying liquid fertilizer; let the pot soil be somewhat dry before applying the fertilizer liquid, which is more effective. The best time to fertilize is early morning; when pouring, let the fertilizer liquid flow in along the edge of the pot, and be careful to avoid applying it on the plant and leaves. In addition, the type of fertilizer should also vary according to the season. For example, in spring and winter, it is suitable to apply some phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, such as fish meal, bone meal, and hemp cake, which help form leaf veins and improve leaf glossiness; in autumn, it is suitable to apply the soaked liquid of decomposed animal hair, horns, hooves, or soybean cake, diluted with 30 to 40 times clean water before pouring, to help leaf growth.

④ Foliar topdressing. Fertilizing by this method is mainly to make up for the lack of nutrients in the soil, to solve the problem of nutrient deficiency in the plant body, and to make seedlings grow quickly and flowers and fruits grow plump. Foliar fertilization is spraying the diluted fertilizer liquid directly onto the plant's leaf surface with a mist sprayer, allowing nutrient elements to penetrate through the leaf epidermal cells and stomata into the leaf tissues and then be transported throughout the plant. Commonly used fertilizer types include urea, monopotassium phosphate, and superphosphate. When spraying, spray evenly on both the front and back sides of the leaves. During the growing season, spray once every 4 to 6 days; during semi-dormancy, once every 2 weeks. Generally spray after sunrise, and stop application once the plant blooms. It must be noted that this method can only be used when the plant is found to be deficient in fertilizer. If the plant has sufficient nutrients and is growing vigorously, it should not be used.

4. Cooling for Summer

In midsummer, the temperature is often above 30°C, which is extremely unfavorable for Clivia growth. For this reason, people generally build shade frames to cool it. You can also bury the Clivia, pot and all, into sand (burying the pot completely), and then sprinkle water on the sand once each morning and evening. In this way, not only can the pot soil be kept moist, but more importantly, the heat absorption effect of water evaporating from the sand can achieve the purpose of cooling.

5. Later-Stage Management

The flowering period of Clivia is generally from February to April. After flowering, the flowering period can be extended by appropriately lowering the temperature, improving ventilation, and reducing light. The length of the Clivia flowering period can be controlled through people's cultivation techniques.

① Fertilizing: Apply once with bone meal, well-fermented fish innards, and soybean cake water, which can make the flower color more vivid, the flowers larger, and the leaves thicker. Otherwise, it is easy for the flowers to be small, few in number, and pale in color. At the same time, care should be taken to avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizer and insufficient phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can lead to weak growth or excessive leaf growth and affect bud formation and flowering.

② Light: Give a certain amount of light to meet the requirements of photosynthesis and flowering for light. Under strong light, the flowering period is short and the flower color is vivid; under weak light, the flower color is pale. Too much or too strong light, or long-term shade and insufficient light, will both affect the production and accumulation of nutrients, making it unable to form buds and bloom.

③ Temperature: Suitable temperature has a clear effect on the quality of flowering. If the temperature is too high, root hairs exist for an extremely short time, and the function of absorbing water and fertilizer is greatly reduced, causing Clivia to appear semi-dormant; if the temperature is below 10°C, growth will also be inhibited; during the growing period it should be controlled at 15 to 25°C, and during the flowering period it should be 15 to 20°C. When root hairs exist for a long time and the function of absorbing water and fertilizer is good, the leaves grow short and wide, and the flowering vigor is luxuriant. Also note that Clivia should maintain a temperature difference of about 8°C between day and night, because the organic matter it produces under higher daytime temperatures needs to be stored and digested under lower nighttime temperatures.

④ Moisture: Clivia cannot lack water throughout the plant's growth period, and its water requirement is even greater once it enters the flowering period; the growing humidity should not be lower than 60%.

Water Culture Techniques for Clivia

Clivia can also be water-cultured. Below we will look at the water culture methods for Clivia.

1. Container Selection

To hydroponically grow Clivia, first choose the container well. Generally, a transparent glass container is best. If growing one seedling, only a glass jar is needed. If water-culturing in large quantities, use fine iron wire to weave a metal mesh with a hole diameter of one cm, then make a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh; or use a goldfish tank instead. Then cover the hydroponic box with the metal mesh, insert the Clivia seedlings separately through the mesh holes into the nutrient solution; the depth of the flower roots in the culture solution should not exceed the false bulb at the root base.

2. Nutrient Solution Preparation

Nutrient solutions are divided into inorganic and organic types. The inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: calcium 1.5 g, ferrous sulfate 0.01 g, urea g, monopotassium phosphate 1 g, magnesium sulfate 0.5 g. After these 5 inorganic salts are all prepared, dissolve them in 1000 g water and it is ready to use. The organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: 100 g roasted hemp seed powder, 100 g bone meal (made from unsalted fresh bones), 150 g soybean cake powder, 50 g roasted sesame powder, then dissolve in 1000 g water. Comparing the above two nutrient solutions, the organic fertilizer has rich components but low nutrient content, while the inorganic fertilizer has relatively single components but strong fertilizer effect and quick results. To make up for each other's shortcomings, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, apply the inorganic fertilizer once a week and the organic fertilizer once every 5 days.

3. Water

For hydroponic Clivia, tap water cannot be used directly; water that has been “aged” must be used. So-called “aged” water means putting tap water in a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3 to 5 days, so that chlorides such as bleaching powder that are harmful to Clivia roots settle out. For “aged” water, from its appearance, the sediment changes from strip-like to clump-like, and the water color is best when green. After the water is well “aged,” the water level covering the roots must not cover the false bulb. If the water level is too shallow, Clivia cannot get a sufficient water supply; if the water level is too deep (covering the false bulb), it will cause root rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality. If the roots are found to be somewhat yellow or black, it indicates that the water is both short of oxygen and low in fertilizer, and the water must be changed immediately.

4. Air

Whether the ventilation at the roots of hydroponic Clivia can be handled well is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. After a period of cultivation, a layer of green moss grows on the roots of hydroponic Clivia. When the green moss is too thick, it will seriously affect root respiration and corrode the culture solution. At this time, use a soft, clean brush to gently brush away the moss layer on the roots (it does not need to be brushed very clean, because a small amount of green moss on the roots has little effect). In addition, often check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The checking method is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim freely in the water, it indicates that the water is not short of oxygen; if the small fish always float to the surface, with their mouths and gills exposed to breathe, it indicates that the water is short of oxygen. After discovering that the water is short of oxygen, oxygen must be replenished. There are two methods: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water.

5. Sunlight

In terms of sunlight handling, Clivia is a semi-shade and semi-sun plant, so attention should be paid to light. Especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive scattered light. In addition, according to the light-oriented characteristics of Clivia leaves, pay attention to making the leaves receive light evenly; otherwise the leaves will differ in length, and the growth direction will also be staggered front and back. Generally, adjust the light angle once every two or three days.

6. Temperature

In terms of temperature handling, the environmental temperature for adult Clivia is best at 11 to 25°C; small seedlings can be slightly higher, 20 to 35°C is fine. When growing Clivia in water, master the temperature difference between day and night. In winter, keep it around 20°C during the day and not lower than 15°C at night.

Complete Guide to Water Culture Techniques for Flowers

Complete Guide to Water Culture Techniques for Flowers

With advances in technology, hydroponic flowers are now becoming more and more popular. Water-cultured flowers are not only beautiful but also clean, making people feel relaxed and happy when they look at them! Below are introductions to the water culture techniques for several common flowers!

Clivia
The hydroponic method is as follows:
Container Selection
To hydroponically grow Clivia, first choose the container well. Generally, a transparent glass container is best. If growing one seedling, only a glass jar is needed. If water-culturing in large quantities, use fine iron wire to weave a metal mesh with a hole diameter of one cm, then make a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh; or use a goldfish tank instead. Then cover the hydroponic box with the metal mesh, insert the Clivia seedlings separately through the mesh holes into the nutrient solution; the depth of the flower roots in the culture solution should not exceed the false bulb at the root base.
Nutrient Solution Preparation
Nutrient solutions are divided into inorganic and organic types. The inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: calcium 1.5 g, ferrous sulfate 0.01 g, urea g, monopotassium phosphate 1 g, magnesium sulfate 0.5 g. After these 5 inorganic salts are all prepared, dissolve them in 1000 g water and it is ready to use. The organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: 100 g roasted hemp seed powder, 100 g bone meal (made from unsalted fresh bones), 150 g soybean cake powder, 50 g roasted sesame powder, then dissolve in 1000 g water. Comparing the above two nutrient solutions, the organic fertilizer has rich components but low nutrient content, while the inorganic fertilizer has relatively single components but strong fertilizer effect and quick results. To make up for each other's shortcomings, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, apply the inorganic fertilizer once a week and the organic fertilizer once every 5 days.
Water
For hydroponic Clivia, tap water cannot be used directly; water that has been "aged" must be used. So-called "aged" water means putting tap water in a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3-5 days, so that chlorides such as bleaching powder that are harmful to Clivia roots settle out. For "aged" water, from its appearance, the sediment changes from strip-like to clump-like, and the water color is best when green. After the water is well "aged," the water level covering the roots must not cover the false bulb. If the water level is too shallow, Clivia cannot get a sufficient water supply; if the water level is too deep (covering the false bulb), it will cause root rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality. If the roots are found to be somewhat yellow or black, it indicates that the water is both short of oxygen and low in fertilizer, and the water must be changed immediately.
Air, Sunlight, Temperature
Whether the ventilation at the roots of hydroponic Clivia can be handled well is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. After a period of cultivation, a layer of green moss grows on the roots of hydroponic Clivia. When the green moss is too thick, it will seriously affect root respiration and corrode the culture solution. At this time, use a soft, clean brush to gently brush away the moss layer on the roots (it does not need to be brushed very clean, because a small amount of green moss on the roots has little effect). In addition, often check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The checking method is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim freely in the water, it indicates that the water is not short of oxygen; if the small fish always float to the surface, with their mouths and gills exposed to breathe, it indicates that the water is short of oxygen. After discovering that the water is short of oxygen, oxygen must be replenished. There are two methods: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight handling, Clivia is a semi-shade and semi-sun plant, so attention should be paid to light. Especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive scattered light. In addition, according to the light-oriented characteristics of Clivia leaves, pay attention to making the leaves receive light evenly; otherwise the leaves will differ in length, and the growth direction will also be staggered front and back. Generally, adjust the light angle once every two or three days. In terms of temperature handling, the environmental temperature for adult Clivia is best at 11°C-25°C; small seedlings can be slightly higher, 20°C-35°C is fine. When growing Clivia in water, master the temperature difference between day and night. In winter, keep it around 20°C during the day and not lower than 15°C at night.

Chinese Rose
After the Chinese rose fades, cut off the faded flowers and let the flowering branch grow for several days. Wait until the first axillary bud on the flowering branch grows thicker and stronger and accumulates nutrients, then cut a cutting with 3 nodes, remove the petiole at the bottom layer, use a sharp blade to cut the back side of the bottom bud into a slanted surface, and immediately insert it into a prepared bottle filled with clean water. The cutting can be inserted 1/3 into the water. To reduce water evaporation from the leaves, some leaves can be cut off. Under light-avoiding conditions, the cut is prone to growing new roots, so use a brown bottle. If there is no brown one, wrap the outside of the bottle with a layer of black plastic film. Place the inserted bottle on a south-facing windowsill, and do not expose it to direct sunlight.
When the temperature is relatively high, change the water once a week. At a temperature of 15-25°C, roots only need about 20 days to grow. When the young roots grow to 1-2 cm long, they can be transplanted into a pot. Because the young roots grew in water, to help them adapt to the environment, water once a day at the beginning of transplanting, then gradually reduce it. After shading for one week, they can receive sunlight in the morning and evening, and they will survive.
The advantages of the water cutting method are: the method is simple, the survival rate is high, it is not limited by time, and cuttings can be taken after the flowers fade...

Azalea
The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. The soilless-cultivated plants had a compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, and is a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.
1. Substrate Preparation
Azalea roots are very fine, requiring a loose substrate to facilitate air permeability and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal slag mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with a 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it multiple times with clean water, and after air-drying, mix evenly with a 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used for potting.
2. Nutrient Solution Preparation
Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the PH value at about 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.
Preparation of major elements: Add 2 g agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.
Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g disodium edetate, 15 g ferrous sulfate, 4 g manganese sulfate, 6 g boric acid, 0.2 g zinc sulfate, 0.1 g copper sulfate, and 0.2 g ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 milliliter of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g urea, 1 g monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g boric acid, and 0.1 g V.B1 to 1 liter of water.
3. Water and Fertilizer Management
Because the substrate has good drainage and air permeability but poor water retention, the watering amount is generally somewhat more than soil cultivation, as long as the substrate is kept moist; at this time it is exactly the period of bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, and the fertilizer requirement is relatively large, so water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds break open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is large; besides watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilization amount can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After autumn cools, the fertilization amount can be gradually increased, applying full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month and spraying foliar fertilizer 1-2 times, to promote robust flower bud growth. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so it is not suitable to fertilize; just water appropriately according to the degree of dryness and wetness of the substrate. During the cultivation process, pests and diseases basically did not occur.


Hyacinth
Hyacinth is a plant in the lily family and is also a bulbous flower. The hyacinth inflorescence is full, the colors are diverse, and the roots are pure white.
Hydroponic key points:
(1) Choose a container whose mouth can hold the bulb in place, preferably a gourd-shaped container that is small at the top and large at the bottom, with a transparent glass texture being better. Some household utensils such as goblets and wine bottles can also be chosen, and wide-mouthed containers can also be used.
(2) The water temperature should not be high; below 15°C is better.
(3) Place the bulb on the bottle neck. After roots develop, lower the water level until the roots just touch the water surface. This allows the roots to fully absorb oxygen and promotes root growth. After the roots develop, cover the culture container with black cloth and let the bulb develop further.
(4) In winter, move the container to a place with sufficient sunlight to encourage the plant to produce large, strong flowers.
(5) Several hyacinth plants can also be planted in a fish tank, with sand as the substrate, supplemented by shade-loving ferns, forming a small scene full of wild charm, which is also very unique.

Gerbera
A perennial herb in the Asteraceae family, with relatively large flower diameter, rich flower colors, and constant blooming in all seasons. It likes a warm, sunny, and well-ventilated environment, is a semi-cold-tolerant flower, and likes fertile, loose soil. Gerbera is a very good cut flower variety, with a long water-culture time and high ornamental value, and it is also good at absorbing formaldehyde.
Water-culturing these plants generally requires no special management. Any container with a certain volume that allows the root system to spread can be used, and a glass container with an open mouth is more beneficial for maintaining water quality and root growth. When planting, avoid letting the leaves immerse in water to prevent rot; place it under suitable light conditions and it will root quickly; add some water when it is found to be low to prevent the roots from drying out; when the water becomes turbid, take out the plant, clean the container, and refill with water. For general water-cultured plants, change the water once every three days and apply nutrient solution once; the ratio and amount of nutrient solution depend on the size of the plant.

Asparagus Fern
Family and genus: Liliaceae, Asparagus genus
Morphological characteristics: The asparagus fern has an elegant plant shape, and its leaf-like branches are slender and beautiful, shaped like cloud flakes, like bamboo but not bamboo. Its posture is delicate and free, and its water-grown roots are fleshy and pure white. Paired with an attractive transparent container, it is both dignified and beautiful, and also appears noble and elegant. It is an excellent choice for hydroponics.
Growth habits: It likes warm, humid, and semi-humid environments. The suitable temperature is 15-25°C, and the minimum winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. It likes scattered light, avoids strong direct light, and avoids dry air.
Hydroponic key points:
1) Material selection: Select a soil-cultured plant with a good plant shape and vigorous growth, wash off the soil and cut off rotten roots, then plant it in a hydroponic container, and add clean water up to one-third to one-half of the root system.
2) Maintenance: At first, change the clean water once every 2-3 days, and remove rotten roots in time. After two weeks, the root system has basically adapted to the environment and has grown water roots. After that, change the clean water once every 5-6 days. When the plant shows relatively strong growth vigor, switch to nutrient solution culture. The nutrient solution should be shallow rather than deep. In summer, replenish it about once every 10 days. When the sediment in the nutrient solution increases, replace the nutrient solution; generally replace it once every 1-2 months. In summer, avoid strong direct light; in winter, place it in a warm place with relatively strong light.
Keep the room temperature above 5°C. When the air is dry, often spray water on the leaf surface to maintain relatively high air humidity and keep the branches and leaves clean.

Ivy. Alias: English ivy
Family and genus: Araliaceae. Hedera genus
Because of its dense vines and leaves, it is the most ideal vertical greening material for indoor and outdoor walls, and it is also an excellent ground cover plant. It is suitable to let it climb on buildings, walls, steep slopes, rock walls, and ground under tree shade, and the demand for potted plants is increasing day by day.
(1) Morphological characteristics and varieties
Evergreen climbing vine, with slender and soft branches and vines, bearing aerial roots. The tip of the vine grows in a spiral shape and can climb onto other objects. Leaves alternate, leathery, dark green, with long petioles. Leaves on vegetative branches are triangular-ovate, entire or with 3 shallow lobes; leaves on flowering branches are ovate to rhombic. Racemose inflorescence, small flowers spherical, light yellow. Drupe spherical, black.
Commonly cultivated plants in the same genus include Chinese ivy (H. nepalensis var. sinensis), Japanese ivy, variegated ivy (CV. discolor), golden heart ivy, silver-edged ivy (CV. siluerquetn), etc.
(2) Ecological habits
Ivy is a typical shade-loving vine, and can also grow in a full-light environment. It grows well under warm and humid climate conditions and is not cold-tolerant. It has no strict requirements for soil, likes moist, loose, fertile soil, and is not salt-alkali tolerant.
(3) Propagation methods
The nodes of ivy can naturally root in humid air, and after contacting the ground they will naturally enter the soil, so cuttings are mostly used for propagation. Use vegetative branches as cuttings. After insertion, shade in time, the air humidity must be high, and the bed soil should not be too wet. Roots will grow in about 20 days.
(4) Cultivation techniques
Ivy cultivation and management are simple and extensive, but it needs to be planted in a place with moist soil and circulating air. Transplanting can be done in early autumn or late spring. After planting, pruning is needed to promote branching. In the south, it is often planted in shaded places in gardens, letting it naturally creep on the ground or on rockeries. In the north, it is mostly potted. Potted plants can be tied to various supports and trained into shape. In summer, maintain it under a shade frame and water less, otherwise stem rot is likely to occur. If this disease occurs, separate the diseased plants from the healthy ones, and alternately spray carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl. In winter, place it in a greenhouse to overwinter. Indoors, keep the air humidity and do not let it become too dry, but the pot soil should not be too wet. Water-cultured ivy can use the whole plant or cuttings, and it is best to do it in spring and autumn. After the root system grows roots in the cutting bed, it can be put into a planting basket for root induction and mutation. Once cultivated well, ivy is very easy to maintain, and it is also clean and hygienic, making it an excellent product for viewing at home. For well-cultivated plants, the general-purpose nutrient solution on the market can be used, or a foliage plant nutrient solution can be used. The nutrient solution concentration is generally 1/4 of the original formula.
(4) Other effects
Ivy is not only a very good greening plant; the whole herb can also be used as medicine, having the effects of dispelling wind, promoting diuresis, invigorating blood, and reducing swelling. It mainly treats rheumatic joint pain, low back pain, and bruises. Mash it to extract juice or add water and decoct it to wash the affected area, which can treat sores, swellings, toxins, urticaria, and eczema.

Euphorbia
Euphorbia is usually propagated by cuttings. From April to early September, cut robust growing branches as cuttings. The wound of the newly cut stem segment will flow with white milky sap. You can dip plant ash or charcoal powder to stop the milky sap from flowing out, then place it in a dry, cool place for 3 to 4 days. After the cut shrinks, insert it for cuttings. Euphorbia is not closely related to aquatic plants, so during hydroponics it must strictly follow the principle of pollution-free cultivation, and regularly replace with new nutrient solution to increase dissolved oxygen. In winter, the temperature must not be too low, otherwise it will drop leaves. The nutrient solution concentration must not be too high, and it must not be overly shaded, otherwise it will revert to ancestral traits, and Euphorbia will grow columnar fleshy stems like the original species, affecting the ornamental effect; in severe cases, it will cause root rot and death. The white milky sap of Euphorbiaceae plants is toxic. In particular, it must not enter the eyes. Be careful not to let children accidentally get it into their mouths or eyes.

Agave
Common varieties of agave include: golden-edged agave, golden-hearted agave, silver-edged agave, green-edged agave, and narrow-leaved agave, etc.
It is robust in nature, likes sunlight, and is not shade-tolerant. It is slightly cold-tolerant and can be cultivated in the open ground at temperatures above 5C. For adult agave at a low temperature of -5C, the leaves suffer only mild frost damage; at -13C the aboveground part freezes and rots, but the underground stem does not die and can sprout and grow leaves the next year, growing normally. It has strong drought tolerance. It likes well-drained, fertile, and moist sandy loam. In its place of origin, it generally takes several decades to bloom, and after blooming the mother plant dies; in the Nanjing area it does not bloom. Cross-pollination is required to set seed.
Agave can be hydroponically grown in a heated environment all year round. During hydroponics, all its roots need to be removed, disinfected with a disinfectant solution, and then soaked in rooting solution for a certain time. During the hydroponic period, note that cabbage caterpillars eat its leaves and heart, thereby losing commercial and ornamental value. If insects are found, they can be caught manually, or insecticide can be used to kill them.
For hydroponic root-viewing plants, often take them to a sunny place; do not leave them in a dark place for a long time, otherwise the leaves are likely to turn white and become thin, thereby losing ornamental value. In winter, pay attention to keeping them warm. During the day, place them by the window where there is sunlight. Indoors without heating at night, put the glass bottle in plastic or a cardboard box. If the leaves turn yellow or droop listlessly, it may be frostbite. At this time, give it some warmth-preserving measures. Then place it away from doors and windows. Remember not to place it on the north side. When changing water in winter, you can use warm water at 12 to 18°C. Agave has strong resistance; as long as you pay attention to management, it can overwinter safely.

Money Tree
The money tree has a graceful posture, a majestic leaf crown, and emerald-green leaves. Placed in a family living room, it is both elegant and generous, and also lovable.
The money tree (Pachira aquatica) is a perennial evergreen shrub, native to the Malay Peninsula and the South Sea Islands region. In recent years, through cultivation and selective breeding, it has become widely introduced into urban and rural households across our country. For home cultivation, based on its preference for high temperature and high humidity and its intolerance of frost and dryness, particular attention should be paid to the following four points:
First, pay attention to sunlight. The money tree likes high temperatures, humidity and sunlight exposure, and cannot tolerate prolonged shade. Therefore, during care and management it should be placed in a spot with ample indoor sunlight. When positioning it, the leaf surface must face the sunlight. Otherwise, because the leaves grow toward the light, the entire branches and foliage will become distorted. In addition, every 3 to 5 days, spray the leaves once with a spray bottle; this not only benefits photosynthesis but also makes the branches and foliage look more attractive.

Euphorbia tirucalli 'Firesticks' (coral cactus)
Hydroponic methods for Euphorbia tirucalli 'Firesticks'
Euphorbiaceae family, Euphorbia genus, also known as triangular spurge. Native to South Africa.
Characteristics
Euphorbia tirucalli 'Firesticks' is a perennial succulent plant. The stems are upright, with 3-4 ridges, dark green, with irregular beautiful grayish-green markings in the center of the stem. The ridge edges have tooth-like protrusions, and on the protrusions grow obovate leaves. It branches abundantly, all growing vertically upward, forming a unique plant shape. The entire plant contains copious milky sap. Euphorbia tirucalli 'Firesticks' has a peculiar shape and a rich exotic flavor; it is an excellent choice for tabletop greenery decoration.
Habits
Euphorbia tirucalli 'Firesticks' likes partial shade but requires ample scattered light. It can tolerate low temperatures of 5 degrees. It prefers dryness and avoids prolonged moisture, yet it is very well suited to hydroponic conditions.
Propagation
Euphorbia tirucalli 'Firesticks' is usually propagated by cuttings. Between May and September, take branches about 10 cm long from the mother plant as cuttings for propagation. The cut cuttings should not be planted immediately; planting immediately will cause the cut end to rot and lead to failure of the cutting. The cut end of Euphorbia tirucalli 'Firesticks' will exude milky sap; when cutting, dip the cut end in plant ash or charcoal powder, and dry it in a cool place for several days. After the cut end has fully dried, then carry out the cutting; it roots very easily.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: If scale insects appear, besides moving it to a ventilated and well-lit place, you can brush off the scale insects with a toothbrush, then spray with a 250-fold laundry detergent solution to kill them.
2: The white milky sap in the stems of Euphorbia tirucalli 'Firesticks' is toxic. Be especially careful not to get it in your eyes.
Methods for obtaining hydroponic material
Cuttings and root washing. The cut branches should first be dried in a cool, ventilated place for several days; after the cut end has dried, then insert them into water, otherwise they will rot. After one month, new roots can grow.

Cyclamen
Hydroponic methods for cyclamen
Selecting cyclamen and containers: Choose 1-year-old to 3-year-old cyclamen plants that are free of pests and diseases, growing vigorously, and in bud. Plants grown in soilless media such as perlite, vermiculite, or wood shavings are best, as after a change of environment they do not suffer root damage, do not need to go through a slow recovery period, and adapt quickly. Hydroponic containers are simple and economical, and in daily life can serve to reuse waste materials. Any container that can hold water will do, such as fish tanks, teacups, beverage boxes, wine bottles, and vases; transparent containers are best, as the roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits can all be fully viewed. No matter what container is used, its size, height and color must all be in harmony with the cyclamen plant, so as to bring out the exquisite, translucent and elegant charm of a hydroponically grown cyclamen.
Water culture timing and method: Cyclamen generally blooms from October to June of the following year, so the water culture period is generally from September to April of the following year. Remove the selected cyclamen plant from its pot, wash the medium adhering to the roots with 20°C warm water, being careful not to damage the roots. Then place it directly into a previously prepared container, with the water level even with the root zone, and at most not exceeding 1/3 of the corm, to avoid corm rot. Finally, place it in a suitable indoor location, add water regularly, and add nutrient solution. After two to three months of water culture, once the flowers fade, take the plant out and plant it in a growing medium to spend the summer.
Water quality and water temperature: The water used for hydroponic cyclamen is best mountain spring water or magnetized water, with clean water quality, not cloudy, no sediment, and containing various trace elements essential to plants; throughout the entire water culture period, no water change is needed. Tap water contains chlorine, which is unfavorable to flower growth, and it easily becomes cloudy and forms sediment, requiring a water change every few days, so it should be avoided as much as possible. The water temperature should be close to the indoor air temperature at the time, generally 10°C to 20°C.
; Light and indoor temperature: Cyclamen likes a sunny environment, and the hydroponic container should be placed on an indoor tabletop or windowsill with ample sunlight, not directly on a radiator. The most suitable indoor temperature is 15°C to 20°C, with a maximum not exceeding 25°C and a minimum not below 10°C. Adding nutrient solution: Hydroponic cyclamen also needs regular nutrient supplementation during the flowering period. Generally, every 10 days add 50 ml of a 1:100 dilution of flowering plant nutrient solution per plant; mountain spring water should also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. If yellow leaves, small leaves, or small flowers are found, after ruling out root rot, an appropriate additional amount of nutrient solution may be added.

Silver-edge grass family and genus name:Poaceae
Latin scientific name:Arrhenatherumelatius
Characteristics:Perennial herb
Plant height:Height 50-100 cm
Flowering period:Summer (June-August)
Cold hardiness: Cold hardy (above -5°C)
Shade tolerance:Sun-loving
Morphological characteristics:Underground stems white, bead-like; aboveground stems clustered, smooth. Leaves clustered, linear-lanceolate, 30 cm long, about 1 cm wide, with yellow-white margins. Panicle with a long stalk, about 50 cm, branched; spikelets with two flowers, the upper flower bisexual or female, the lower one male; flowering period June-July. Native to Europe.
Habits:Extremely robust in nature, cold hardy and drought tolerant, not particular about soil. In midsummer the aboveground parts often wither and go dormant, then sprout and grow again in early September.
Propagation and cultivation:Usually divide the plants once every 2-3 years, in spring from March to April or in September after dormancy when new leaves first emerge. Dig up the old plant and separate it, each division preferably with 2-3 new shoots, separated together with the bead-like underground stems. The old plant should be pruned every year; leaves should not be too long, and when the underground stems are exposed, soil should be mounded up promptly, so the clump remains vigorous and graceful. During cultivation, if too much fertilizer is applied or there is excessive nutrient deficiency, the white spots on the leaves will disappear and they will turn entirely green, affecting the ornamental effect.

A complete guide to hydroponic methods for various flowers

Hydroponic methods for various flowers

Agave

1. Use the root-washing method or division method to convert mature plants to hydroponics. Old roots also adapt to the hydroponic environment and generally will not rot. New roots grow in the water in about 7 days. Suitable for low-concentration nutrient cultivation.

2. The umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius) has a rather large and dense crown, so when planting hydroponically it is not advisable to use too many stems; too dense affects ventilation and light penetration and also looks cluttered and disorderly. A sparser arrangement looks more natural; 7-9 stems will do.

3. To prevent lodging, a deep container should be used for planting.

4. The umbrella plant's leaf surface has well-developed stomata in very large numbers, with vigorous transpiration, so the naturally consumed solution needs to be replenished promptly. It is a relatively easy plant to grow hydroponically.

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Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)

1. Use the division method or root-washing method to hydroponically grow mature plants; the original root system can quickly adapt to hydroponic conditions and generally will not develop root rot, and new roots sprout in 7-10 days, so within a short time you can enjoy the flowers, leaves and roots! 2. The peace lily has a well-developed root system, as white as jade, and looks better when grown in a relatively clear container.

3. The peace lily is fairly shade tolerant; hydroponic plants can even bloom in a semi-shaded indoor spot.

4. When converting from soil culture to hydroponics in summer, some old leaves will initially turn yellow; these should be removed promptly, and the water should be changed daily, then after a week reduce the frequency of water changes.

Coleus

1. For hydroponic coleus, it is best to cut a section of stem with 5-8 leaves from the plant and insert it into water; at a water temperature of 15-28 degrees, roots generally sprout in 10-15 days, and it can then be planted in an elegant vase. Coleus leaves are brilliantly colored, making it a fine decorative flower. But note: do not add too much fertilizer during hydroponics, lest the leaves turn green!

2. To keep the leaves vivid, it needs to be placed in a brightly lit spot. With insufficient light, the leaf color will become dull and lose its luster.

3. Use pinching to control height, encourage branching, and prevent it from producing flower spikes, keeping the plant full and compact.

Lucky bamboo

1. One of the most suitable flowers for hydroponics, widely grown in countless households. Grown by the water-cutting method, it roots very easily and is relatively easy to care for. At a temperature of 18-28 degrees, it remains in a growing state all year round.

2. When growing mature plants hydroponically by the root-washing method, you can see that the original soil-grown roots are orange-red, but under hydroponics the roots that emerge are indeed milky white; the red and white set each other off beautifully. Lucky bamboo is elegant and fresh, evergreen all year round, and carries the meaning of "bamboo bringing peace" and good fortune and auspiciousness, and is deeply loved by people.

Alocasia (giant taro)

1. Plants grown from small offsets sprouted by the plant are the easiest to keep alive. In the early stage of hydroponics, be sure to change the water and wash the roots daily; Alocasia is one of the fastest-rooting flowers among hydroponic plants. New water roots can grow in about 7-10 days.

2. The sap in the stems and leaves of Alocasia is toxic; contact with the skin will cause itching and redness and swelling, so rinse promptly with clean water, and be careful not to get it in the mouth.

3. Alocasia has a unique graceful bearing and beautiful leaf shape; it is a superb accent for a desk!

Pothos

1. Pothos is very suitable for hydroponic cultivation; both the water-cutting method and the root-washing method easily yield ideal plants, and under hydroponic conditions new roots sprout in about 15-20 days.

2. Put the aerial roots into the water as well; aerial roots can also serve as nutrient roots, absorbing water and nutrients.

3. During the growing period, spray the leaves with diluted hydroponic-specific fertilizer to make the leaves even more vivid.

4. Pothos vines are soft and graceful, with mottled leaf colors; small plants can also be grown in wall-mounted containers, allowed to slant and trail down like a green decorative curtain, fresh and elegantly refined.

Snake plant

1. For home hydroponic planting of snake plants, it is best to choose the golden-edged snake plant with yellow leaf margins, which has ornamental value for hydroponic planting. At a water temperature of 20 degrees, new roots sprout in about 10-15 days.

2. The snake plant's root system is sparse and loose, and it is not suitable for pruning. The snake plant has beautiful leaf color, and its arrow-like leaf shape stands tall and upright, full of a noble temperament; it is highly adaptable and can be used for greenery decoration in living rooms, studies, and even dimly lit spots.

Parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

1. Choose small to medium-sized soil-grown plants and convert them to hydroponics using the root-washing method.

2. The parlor palm's root system is fine and underdeveloped, and new roots sprout slowly in a hydroponic environment, but the old roots are firm and not prone to rotting. Generally no pruning of the root system is done.

Broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa)

1. For home hydroponics, it is best to choose small to medium-sized plants and plant them using the root-washing method.

2. Sparse is better than dense; keeping 2-3 stems per container is enough to show its graceful and serene temperament.

3. The broadleaf lady palm's roots are dense in texture and elastic, adapting quickly to the hydroponic environment, but during hydroponics new roots are not easy to sprout, and may even fail to grow new roots for several months, yet this does not hinder its growth.

Spider plant

1. For hydroponic spider plants, it is best to choose plants grown from aerial roots produced on the runners [stolons], because the aerial roots on the runners are very well suited to the hydroponic environment and are easy to manage. Root systems sprout in about 5 days of water culture.

2. When growing spider plants hydroponically by the root-washing method or division method, the original thick fleshy roots will rot, so the water must be changed daily, the roots washed, and the rotted roots removed; in about 25-30 days new roots can grow from the root crown area, and the old roots gradually adapt to the hydroponic environment and no longer rot. At this point nutrient solution cultivation can be used.

3. For hydroponic spider plants, it is best to choose green-leaved varieties; the silver-striped spider plant is more difficult to manage.

Liking is a faint love, love is a deep liking! ^_^

Green emperor (Philodendron 'Imperial Green')

1. For water-cutting cultivation, it is best to cut the upper branches of the stem vines, and insert the aerial roots into the water along with them; new roots sprout in about 10-15 days.

2. For home hydroponics of green emperor, small plants should be used, and the plant surface should be sprayed with water frequently to keep the leaves fresh.

3. The green emperor's stem is thick and sturdy; taking advantage of this feature, growing it upright gives a better ornamental effect. Also give it an appropriate source of scattered light.

Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron)

1. For hydroponic Philodendron bipinnatifidum, also choose small seedlings; the root-washing method can be used.

2. Spray the leaf surface with water frequently, and wipe dust off the leaves with a damp cloth to keep the leaf surface fresh.

3. Philodendron bipinnatifidum has a peculiar leaf shape and is an excellent choice for home decoration.

Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema)

1. Cut an appropriately long upper branch, wash off the bleeding sap, and plant it by the water-cutting method. At a water temperature of 25 degrees, roots can form in about 20 days. 2. Use the root-washing method to convert a mature soil-grown plant to hydroponics; generally no root rot occurs. However, it should be grown with a low-concentration nutrient solution. 3. Water culture of Chinese evergreen has a long history in our country. In the Guangdong area, growing it in glass bottles filled with water is quite common. Water culture is convenient, clean and hygienic. It has a special charm of its own.

Monstera (Swiss cheese plant)

1. Monstera is very well adapted to hydroponic planting; at any time of year, a soil-grown plant can be converted to hydroponic planting using the root-washing method.

2. Plant by the water-cutting method. The intact aerial roots on the branch should be retained, and the aerial roots inserted into the water along with the branch; the aerial roots can transform into nutrient roots and also serve to support the plant.

3. Monstera has huge leaves and thick stems; for hydroponics, a thick, sturdy container should be chosen to prevent lodging.

4. Frequently spray the leaf surface with a fine-nozzle watering can to increase environmental humidity, which is beneficial to the plant's growth.

Arrowhead plant (Syngonium)

1. When planting mature plants by the root-washing method, it is not restricted by season; for the water-cutting method of cultivation, as long as the plant has aerial roots, it can be done at any time of year.

2. It is easy to care for and grows quickly, so the plant should be renewed frequently. Cut off the top branches of overgrown plants and grow them separately; new roots sprout in about 10 days. The axillary buds on the old stems will also sprout quickly.

3. For hydroponic arrowhead plants, it is best to choose small plants of the vividly colored white butterfly arrowhead plant, pink butterfly arrowhead plant, and silver-leaf arrowhead plant, grown upright; because of their vivid leaf color and butterfly-like shape, they have considerable ornamental value.

Earth star (Cryptanthus)

After flowering, offsets can be used for water culture. When separating the offsets, they should not be too small; they can be broken off by hand, the base trimmed flat and several leaves near the base peeled off, then placed in a container so that they touch the water surface. In a shaded spot at 20°C, they will root in 2-3 weeks. Potted plants can also be washed free of soil and then grown hydroponically, but rooting is slower, taking about a month or more and producing fewer roots. The nutrient solution pH should be between pH 4-5. Earth stars are small and dainty with bright colors, and are an excellent choice for desk display.

Tulip

For hydroponic tulips, varieties should be selected according to the needs of the flowering period, so as to ensure the tulips' vividness and beauty. Next is temperature control. From bulb sprouting to flowering, there are 3 management stages, namely the sprouting stage, the vegetative growth stage, and the flowering stage.

1. Sprouting stage management: Fill the pot containing the bulbs with water (ordinary household water will do), so that the roots of the bulbs are immersed in the water. Place the pot in a lit indoor spot (best on a windowsill), keep the room temperature at 13°C, and do not let the temperature fluctuate too much. In 4-7 days both roots and shoots will grow, thus entering the vegetative growth stage. Change the water every three days, and after flower buds appear, change the water once a week. The relationship between the number of days after planting the bulbs and the number that have sprouted is as follows:

Days after planting the bulbs 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Number sprouted 0 0 0 15 28 39 48

2. Vegetative growth stage management: During this period, as the growth amount and growth rate of roots, stems and leaves increase, a large amount of water is needed. The water volume in the pot must be maintained so that the roots are immersed in water the whole time. The growing temperature should be controlled at 15°C-18°C; the temperature must not be too high, otherwise the plant will grow leggy, with thin, long stems, affecting its appearance. Because plants are phototropic, the direction of the pot should be turned frequently so the stems can grow upright without leaning. After 2-3 weeks of growth, once the number of leaves reaches 3-4, an oval flower bud will appear at the tip of the stem, and from then on it enters the flowering stage.

3. Flowering stage management: After the flower buds appear, the temperature can still be controlled at 15°C-18°C. In 5-7 days the flower buds gradually open, and the flowers show vivid colors. After the flowers open, the pot can be moved to a cool indoor spot, which can prolong the flowering period; generally the flowers can remain open for 2-3 weeks.

Liusphere orchid (Hoya) with exposed roots

The Hoya has fragrant flowers, beautiful color, and a long flowering period; it is a good material for flower arrangements.

Hoya has traditionally been grown in soil. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following features: (1) saves labor; (2) hygienic; (3) few pests and diseases; (4) easy to manage; (5) long flowering period; (6) you can view the roots and leaves as well as enjoy the flowers, etc.

The method for exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-grown Hoya, wash it clean with clear water, cut off dead leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a drainage hole), put a few attractive river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the roots, add clear water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool spot.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clear water once a day; after a day or two, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and after changing the water add nutrient solution. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and thereafter inject once a month, to promote growth, flowering and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

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Hydroponic Methods for Winter Jasmine

1. Water rooting time: Water rooting can be done in all four seasons. In winter, the container for water rooting can be placed indoors in a sunny spot; in summer, shade must be provided to prevent direct sunlight. During water rooting, the water temperature should be kept at 15°C to 20°C; cuttings root quickly and have a high survival rate.

2. Cuttings for water rooting: Select branches that grew in the current year, are robust and have plump buds. Cutting length is generally 8 cm to 12 cm, and 2 to 4 nodes can be retained. Cut about 2 mm below the lowest node. Bind in groups of 10. If the upper half of the cutting has too many leaves, some can be removed appropriately to facilitate rooting.

3. Water rooting container: Use a basin with a wide mouth or a shallow wide-mouthed bottle, etc. It must be washed clean before use.

4. Water rooting method: Fill the container with clean rainwater, river water or tap water to a depth of 8 cm to 10 cm, then place the bound cuttings in the water in rows, with the submerged depth at 4 cm to 6 cm. Then place the container outdoors in a ventilated, semi-shaded spot. The water quality must be kept fresh and clean; change the water once every 3 to 5 days. Generally, about 20 days after insertion, nodular callus tissue forms, and in 35 to 40 days fibrous roots grow.

5. Timely planting: When the fibrous roots grow to 3 cm to 5 cm, they must be planted in time. Be careful during the operation not to damage the roots. Generally, after planting, provide shade for about 10 days, then normal management can proceed.

Clivia

Container Selection

To grow Clivia hydroponically, the first step is to choose a good container. Generally, a transparent glass container is preferred. If growing a single seedling, just a glass jar will do. If growing a large number hydroponically, you can weave a metal mesh with an aperture of 1 cm from thin iron wire, and make a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh; or use a goldfish tank instead. Then cover the hydroponic box with the metal mesh, and insert the Clivia seedlings through the mesh holes into the nutrient solution. The depth of the flower roots in the culture solution should not exceed the pseudobulb at the base of the roots.

Nutrient Solution Preparation

Nutrient solutions fall into two types: inorganic and organic. The inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: calcium 1.5 g, ferrous sulfate 0.01 g, urea g, monopotassium phosphate 1 g, magnesium sulfate 0.5 g. After all 5 inorganic salts are gathered, dissolve them in 1000 g of water and it is ready to use. The organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: roasted sesame seed meal 100 g, bone meal (made from unsalted fresh bones) 100 g, soybean cake meal 150 g, roasted sesame powder 50 g, then dissolve in 1000 g of water. Comparing the two nutrient solutions above, the organic fertilizer has rich components but low nutrient content; the inorganic fertilizer has relatively simple components but strong fertilizer effect and quick results. To make up for each other's shortcomings, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, apply the inorganic fertilizer once a week, and the organic fertilizer once every 5 days.

Water

For hydroponic Clivia, do not use tap water directly; you must use water that has been "aged." So-called "aged" water means leaving tap water in a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3-5 days, so that bleaching powder and other chlorides harmful to Clivia roots precipitate out. From the appearance of "aged" water, the sediment changes from strip-shaped to clump-shaped, and the water color is best when green. After the water is well "aged," when submerging the roots, the pseudobulb must not be submerged. If the water level is too shallow, Clivia cannot get sufficient water supply; if the water level is too deep (submerging the pseudobulb), it will cause root rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality. If the roots are found to be somewhat yellow or black, it indicates that the water is both low in oxygen and low in nutrients, and the water must be changed immediately.

Air, Sunlight, Temperature

Whether the aeration of the roots of hydroponic Clivia can be handled well is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. After a period of cultivation, a layer of moss grows on the roots of hydroponic Clivia. When the moss is too thick, it seriously affects root respiration and corrodes the culture solution. At this time, use a soft, clean bristle brush to gently brush off the moss layer on the roots (it need not be brushed very clean, since a small amount of moss on the roots has little effect). In addition, frequently check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The method is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim freely in the water, it indicates the water is not lacking oxygen; if the small fish always float to the surface with their mouths and gills exposed to breathe, it indicates the water is lacking oxygen. After discovering oxygen deficiency in the water, oxygen must be replenished. There are two methods: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight treatment, Clivia is a semi-shade, semi-sun plant, so attention must be paid to lighting. Especially in summer, avoid direct intense sunlight and let it receive scattered light. In addition, according to the phototropic characteristics of Clivia leaves, attention should be paid to making the leaves receive light evenly; otherwise the leaves will be of uneven length and the growth direction will also be misaligned front and back. Generally, adjust the lighting angle once every two or three days. In terms of temperature treatment, the environmental temperature for adult Clivia is best at 11°C-25°C, and seedlings can be slightly higher, 20°C-35°C is fine. For growing Clivia in water, master the day-night temperature difference. In winter, maintain about 20°C during the day and not lower than 15°C at night.

Chinese Rose

After the Chinese rose flowers fade, cut off the spent flowers and let the flowering branch grow for several days. Wait until the first axillary bud on the flowering branch becomes thicker and sturdier and accumulates nutrients, then cut a 3-node cutting, remove the petiole at the bottom layer, use a sharp blade to cut the back side of the bottom bud into a slant, and immediately insert it into a prepared bottle filled with clean water. The cutting can be inserted one-third into the water. To reduce water evaporation from the leaves, some leaves can be cut off. In dark conditions, the cut is prone to growing new roots, so use a brown bottle. If there is no brown one, wrap the bottle with a layer of black plastic film. Place the inserted bottle on a south-facing windowsill, and do not expose it to direct sunlight.

When the temperature is relatively high, change the water once a week. At 15-25°C, roots can grow in only about 20 days. When the young roots grow to 1-2 cm long, they can be transplanted into pots. Because the young roots grew in water, to help them adapt to the environment, water once a day at the beginning of transplanting, then gradually reduce. After shading for one week, they can receive sunlight in the morning and evening, and then they will survive.

The advantages of the water rooting method are: the method is simple, the survival rate is high, it is not restricted by time, and cuttings can be taken right after the flowers fade.

Azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. The soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality, but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, and is a cultivation method worthy of vigorous promotion.

1. Substrate Preparation

Azalea roots are very fine, requiring loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Mix vermiculite 1 part, perlite 1 part, river sand 1 part, and coal cinder 1 part in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse multiple times with clean water. After drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used in pots.

2. Nutrient Solution Preparation

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growth period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling pH at about 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 g agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g disodium EDTA, 15 g ferrous sulfate, 4 g manganese sulfate, 6 g boric acid, 0.2 g zinc sulfate, 0.1 g copper sulfate, and 0.2 g ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the stock solution. When using, add 1 ml of trace element stock solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g urea, 1 g monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g boric acid, and 0.1 g V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and Fertilizer Management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the watering amount is generally a bit more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is exactly the period of bud formation and leaf bud germination, requiring a relatively large amount of fertilizer, so apply full-strength nutrient solution once about every 10 days. From March until the buds break, spray foliar fertilizer once about every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is large; besides watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large, so it can be changed to applying nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilizer amount can be reduced to applying nutrient solution once about every 20 days. After autumn cools, gradually increase the fertilizer amount, apply full-strength nutrient solution once about every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote healthy and strong growth of flower buds. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately according to the dryness and wetness of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic Hyacinth

Hyacinth is a plant of the Liliaceae family and also a bulbous flower. The hyacinth inflorescence is full, the colors are diverse, and the root fibers are pure white.

Hydroponic key points:

(1) Choose a container whose mouth can hold the bulb, preferably a gourd-shaped container that is small at the top and large at the bottom, with transparent glass texture being better. Some household utensils such as goblets and wine bottles can also be chosen, and wide-mouthed containers can also be used.

(2) The water temperature should not be high; below 15°C is better.

(3) Place the bulb on the bottleneck. After roots begin to grow, lower the water level until the roots just touch the water surface. This allows the roots to fully absorb oxygen and promotes root fiber growth. After the roots develop, cover the culture container with black cloth to let the bulb develop further.

(4) In winter, move the container to a place with sufficient sunlight to promote large and strong flowers.

(5) Several hyacinth plants can also be planted in a fish tank, with sand as the substrate, supplemented by shade-loving ferns, forming a charming little scene full of wild interest, which is also very unique.

Gerbera

A perennial herb of the Asteraceae family, with relatively large flower diameter, rich flower colors, and blooming all year round. It likes a warm, sunny and well-ventilated environment, is a semi-cold-tolerant flower, and likes fertile and loose soil. Gerbera is a very good cut flower variety, with long water-holding time and high ornamental value, and it is also good at absorbing formaldehyde.

Growing these plants in water generally requires no special management. Any container with a certain volume that allows roots to extend can be used, and a glass container with an open mouth is more favorable for maintaining water quality and root growth. When planting, avoid letting leaves sink into the water to prevent rot; place it under suitable lighting conditions and it will quickly take root; when the water is found to be low, add some water to prevent the roots from drying out; when the water becomes turbid, take out the plant, clean the container, and refill with water. Generally, for hydroponic plants, change the water once every three days and apply nutrient solution once; the ratio and amount of nutrient solution depend on the size of the plant.

Asparagus Fern

Alias: Yunpian Bamboo, Pingmian Cao

Family and genus: Liliaceae, Asparagus genus

Morphological characteristics: The asparagus fern has an elegant plant shape, with slender and beautiful leaf-like branches shaped like cloud layers, resembling bamboo but not bamboo, with a delicate and free posture. The hydroponic roots are fleshy and pure white. Paired with a scenic transparent container, it is both dignified and beautiful, and also appears noble and elegant, making it an excellent choice in hydroponics.

Growth habits: Likes warm, humid and semi-humid environments, suitable temperature 15-25°C, minimum winter temperature not lower than 5°C, likes scattered light, avoids direct strong light, and avoids dry air.

Hydroponic key points:

1) Material selection: Choose a soil-cultivated plant with a good plant shape and vigorous growth, wash off the soil and cut off rotten roots, then plant it in a hydroponic container, and add clean water up to one-third to one-half of the root system.

2) Maintenance: At first, change the clean water once every 2-3 days and remove rotten roots in time. After two weeks, the root system has basically adapted to the environment and has grown hydroponic roots. After that, change the clean water once every 5-6 days. When the plant shows strong growth momentum, switch to nutrient solution culture. The nutrient solution should be shallow rather than deep. In summer, replenish once about every 10 days. When the sediment in the nutrient solution increases to the point of renewal, replace the nutrient solution, generally once every 1-2 months. In summer, avoid direct strong light; in winter, place it in a warm place with relatively strong light.

Keep room temperature above 5°C. When the air is dry, frequently spray water on the leaves to maintain relatively high air humidity and keep the branches and leaves clean.

Ivy (Hedera helix)

Alias: English Ivy

Family and genus: Araliaceae, Hedera genus

Because of its dense vines and leaves, it is the most ideal vertical greening material for indoor and outdoor walls, and is also an excellent ground cover plant. It is suitable to let it climb on buildings, walls, steep slopes, rock faces, and ground under tree shade, etc. The demand for potted plants is increasing day by day.

(1) Morphological characteristics and varieties

Evergreen climbing vine, with slender and soft branches and vines, possessing aerial roots. The vine tips grow in a spiral shape and can climb onto other objects. Leaves alternate, leathery, dark green, with long petioles. Leaves on vegetative branches are triangular-ovate, entire or with 3 shallow lobes; leaves on flowering branches are ovate to rhombic. Racemes, small flowers spherical, light yellow. Drupe spherical, black.

Commonly cultivated plants in the same genus include Chinese ivy (H. nepalensis var. sinensis), Japanese ivy, variegated ivy (CV. discolor), golden-hearted ivy, silver-edged ivy (CV. silver queen), etc.

(2) Ecological habits

Ivy is a typical shade-loving vine plant, but can also grow in full-light environments. It grows well under warm and humid climatic conditions, and is not cold-tolerant. It has no strict soil requirements, likes moist, loose and fertile soil, and is not salt-alkali tolerant.

(3) Propagation methods

The nodes of ivy can naturally take root in humid air, and after contacting the ground they will naturally enter the soil, so cutting propagation is mostly used. Use vegetative branches as cuttings. After insertion, shade must be provided in time, air humidity must be high, and the bed soil should not be too wet. Roots form in about 20 days. (4) Cultivation techniques

Ivy cultivation and management is simple and extensive, but it needs to be planted in a place with moist soil and circulating air. Transplanting can be done in early autumn or late spring. After planting, pruning is needed to promote branching. In the south, it is mostly planted in shaded areas of gardens, letting it naturally creep on the ground or on rockeries. In the north, it is mostly potted. Potted plants can be tied to various supports and trained into shape. In summer, maintain them under a shade shed and water less, otherwise stem rot is likely to occur. If this disease occurs, separate diseased plants from healthy ones, and alternately spray carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl. In winter, place them in a greenhouse to overwinter; indoor air humidity should be maintained and should not be too dry, but the potting soil should not be too wet. Hydroponic ivy can use whole plants or cuttings, and it is best to do this in spring and autumn. After the root system grows roots in the cutting bed, it can be placed in a planting basket for root induction and mutation. Once well cultivated, ivy is extremely easy to maintain and is also clean and hygienic, making it an excellent item for viewing at home. For well-cultivated plants, the general-purpose nutrient solution on the market can be used, or a foliage plant nutrient solution can be used. The nutrient solution concentration is generally 1/4 of the original formula.

(4) Other effects

Ivy is not only a good greening plant, but the whole herb can also be used as medicine. It has the effects of dispelling wind, promoting diuresis, activating blood, and reducing swelling. It mainly treats rheumatic joint pain, lumbago, and traumatic injuries. Crush and extract the juice, or add water and decoct to wash the affected area, which can treat sores, swellings and toxins, urticaria, and eczema.

Euphorbia

Euphorbia is usually propagated by cuttings. From April to early September, cut robust growing branches as cuttings. The wound of the newly cut stem segment will exude white milky sap. You can dip it in plant ash or charcoal powder to stop the sap from flowing out, then air-dry it in a dry, cool place for 3 to 4 days. After the cut shrinks and dries, insert it for cuttings. Euphorbia is not closely related to aquatic plants. During hydroponics, the pollution-free cultivation principle must be strictly followed, and new nutrient solution must be regularly replaced frequently to increase dissolved oxygen. In winter, the temperature must not be too low, otherwise it will drop leaves. The nutrient solution concentration must not be too high, nor should it be overly shaded, otherwise it will revert to ancestral traits, and Euphorbia will grow the columnar fleshy stems of the original species, affecting the ornamental effect; in severe cases, it causes root rot and death. The white sap of Euphorbiaceae plants is toxic. Especially do not let it enter the eyes, and be careful not to let children accidentally ingest it or get it in their eyes.

Dracaena

Dracaena has strong adaptability to light. In the north, it can be placed continuously in a dark room for ornamental viewing for more than a month, and in a bright room it can be placed long-term for viewing. It likes high temperature, high humidity and a well-ventilated environment, prefers light and is also shade-tolerant, but fears fierce sunlight and avoids dryness and drought. It likes loose, well-drained sandy soil. The suitable growth temperature is 20°C to 28°C. Below 13°C in winter, cold damage and leaf drying must be prevented. The overwintering temperature is 5°C.

Dracaena is mostly propagated by cuttings. In the north, April to June is the best season. For large columnar Dracaena, the perennial stem itself contains nutrients and water, and the latent buds on the stem have strong regenerative ability. Due to decorative needs, it can be sawed into stem segments of different lengths for planting, but the tail end of the stem segment should be sealed with paraffin to prevent water loss or disease infection, which is especially important in the dry season in the north. Or choose mature and robust stems (not lignified), cut off the leafy stem top, cut the upper leaves in half, peel off the lower leaves to expose the stem nodes, each segment about 10 cm to 20 cm, insert into coarse sand, fine wood shavings or humus soil 3 cm to 4 cm. Place the cutting bed in a semi-shaded environment, maintain high humidity, receive 50% to 60% sunlight, at 25°C to 30°C, and roots and sprouts form in about 20 to 30 days, then pot them. When stem segments are used as cuttings, rooting is slower, sometimes requiring 2 to 3 months to produce new buds and roots. Water cuttings and air layering can also be used, but must be done at conditions above 25°C. Water cutting propagation means soaking one-third of the stem cutting in water, changing the water once every 3 to 5 days, and adding a small amount of carbendazim aqueous solution for antisepsis and disinfection, which can promote fast rooting and sprouting.

Agave

Common variants of agave include: golden-edged agave, golden-hearted agave, silver-edged agave, green-edged agave, and narrow-leaved agave, etc.

It is robust, likes sunlight, and is not shade-tolerant. Slightly cold-tolerant; it can be cultivated in the open at temperatures above 5°C. Adult agave leaves suffer only slight frost damage at a low temperature of -5°C, and at -13°C the aboveground parts freeze and rot, but the underground stem does not die and can sprout and grow leaves the next year, growing normally. Strong drought tolerance. Likes well-drained, fertile and moist sandy loam. In its place of origin, it generally takes several decades to bloom, and after blooming the mother plant dies; in the Nanjing area it does not bloom. Cross-pollination is required to set seed.

Agave can be hydroponically grown throughout the year in a heated environment. During hydroponics, all its roots need to be removed, disinfected with a disinfectant solution, and then soaked in rooting solution for a certain period. During hydroponics, note that cabbage caterpillars eat its leaves and heart, thereby losing commercial and ornamental value. If insects are found, they can be caught manually, or insecticides can be used to kill them.

For hydroponic root-viewing plants, frequently take them to a sunny place. Do not leave them in a dark place for a long time, otherwise the leaves are likely to turn white and become thin, thereby losing ornamental value. In winter, pay attention to keeping them warm. During the day, place them near a window with sunlight. At night, if the room is unheated, put the glass bottle in plastic or a cardboard box. If the leaves turn yellow or droop listlessly, it may be cold damage, and at this time some insulation measures need to be taken. Then place it away from doors and windows, and remember not to place it in a north-facing place. When changing water in winter, use warm water at 12°C to 18°C. Agave has strong resistance; as long as management is paid attention to, it can overwinter safely.

Money Tree

The money tree is a perennial evergreen shrub, native to the Malay Peninsula and the South Sea Islands area. In recent years, through cultivation and selection, it has widely entered urban and rural households in our country. For home cultivation, according to its living habits of liking high temperature and high humidity and not tolerating frost or dryness, focus on grasping the following four points:

First, pay attention to sunlight. The money tree likes high temperature, humidity and sunlight, and cannot be shaded for a long time. Therefore, during maintenance and management, it should be placed in a sunny spot indoors. When placing it, the leaf surface must face the sunlight. Otherwise, because the leaves are phototropic, the entire branches and leaves will become distorted. In addition, every 3 to 5 days, spray water on the leaves once with a spray bottle. This not only benefits photosynthesis, but also makes the branches and leaves look more beautiful.

Hydroponic Methods for Periwinkle

Apocynaceae, Catharanthus genus, also known as five-petal plum.

Biological characteristics: Periwinkle is native to eastern Africa. It likes warm, slightly dry and sunny environments. The suitable growth temperature from March to July is 18-24°C, and from September to March of the following year is 13-18°C. The winter temperature should not be lower than 10°C.

Periwinkle avoids wetness and fears waterlogging. Do not water the potting soil too much; excessive moisture affects growth and development. Especially for plants overwintering indoors, watering should be strictly controlled, and dryness is better, otherwise they are very likely to suffer cold damage. For open-field cultivation, during heavy summer showers, pay attention to timely drainage to avoid waterlogging causing the entire patch to die.

Periwinkle is a light-loving plant. During the growth period, there must be sufficient sunlight; then the leaves are dark green and glossy, and the flower colors are vivid. If grown in shade for a long time, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

It is suitable for fertile and well-drained loam, and is tolerant of poor soil, but must absolutely avoid alkaline soil. Compacted, poorly aerated clay soil results in poor plant growth, yellow leaves, and no flowering.

Propagation methods: Commonly used are sowing, cuttings and propagation.

Cultivation management: When seedlings have 3 pairs of true leaves, transplant them into 10 cm pots, 3 plants per pot. When seedlings are 7-8 cm tall, pinch once, and pinch 2 more times afterward to promote more branching and more flowering. During the growth period, fertilize once every half month, or use 15-15-30 "Huiyou" special fertilizer for pot flowers. For potted plants or flower beds planted after removal from pots, flowering lasts from late May to early November, more than 5 months. During the flowering period, remove spent flowers at any time to prevent the spent flowers from becoming moldy and affecting plant growth and ornamental value. August to October is the seed collection period for periwinkle. Collect as they mature to avoid seed loss.

Pest and disease control: Leaf rot, rust disease and root-knot nematode damage often occur. For leaf rot, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder 500x solution. For rust disease, spray with 50% carboxin wettable powder 2000x solution. For root-knot nematodes, spray with 80% dibromochloropropane emulsifiable concentrate 50x solution for control.

Hydroponic Methods for Euphorbia tirucalli

Euphorbiaceae, Euphorbia genus, also known as triangular milkbush. Native to South Africa.

Characteristics

Euphorbia tirucalli is a perennial succulent plant. The stem is upright, with 3-4 ridges, dark green, and in the center of the stem there are irregular beautiful gray-green markings. The ridge edges have tooth-like protrusions, and on the protrusions there are obovate leaves. There are many branches, all vertically upward, forming a unique plant shape. The whole plant contains irritating milky sap. Euphorbia tirucalli has a peculiar shape and rich exotic flavor, and is an excellent choice for table greening decoration.

Habits

Euphorbia tirucalli likes semi-shade, but requires sufficient scattered light. It can tolerate a low temperature of 5°C. Euphorbia tirucalli likes dryness and avoids prolonged moisture, yet is very suitable for hydroponic conditions.

Propagation

Euphorbia tirucalli is usually propagated by cuttings. From May to September, take branches about 10 cm from the mother plant as cuttings for insertion. The cut cuttings should not be inserted immediately; immediate insertion causes the cut to rot and leads to cutting failure. The cut of Euphorbia tirucalli exudes milky sap. When cutting, dip it in plant ash or carbon powder, and air-dry it in a cool place for several days. After the cut is fully dry, insert it for cuttings; it roots very easily.

Hydroponic maintenance key points

1: If scale insects occur, besides moving it to a ventilated and well-lit place, you can brush off the scale insects with a toothbrush, then spray 250x washing powder solution to kill them.

2: The white milky liquid in the stem of Euphorbia tirucalli is toxic. Especially be careful not to let it enter the eyes.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic material

Cuttings and root washing. The cut branches should first be air-dried in a cool, ventilated place for several days. After the cut is dry, insert them into water, otherwise they will rot. After one month, new roots can grow.

Hydroponic Methods for Cyclamen

Selection of cyclamen and container: Choose 1-year-old to 3-year-old cyclamen plants that are free of pests and diseases, growing vigorously, and in bud. Those cultivated with soilless substrate such as perlite, vermiculite, wood shavings, etc. are best, because after a change of environment they do not damage roots, do not need recovery, and adapt quickly. Hydroponic containers are simple and economical, and in daily life can serve to reuse waste. Any container that can hold water, such as a fish tank, teacup, beverage box, wine bottle, or vase, can be used; transparent containers are best, as roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits can all be fully viewed. No matter what container is used, its size, height, color, etc. must be coordinated with the cyclamen plant, so that the hydroponic cyclamen can show its exquisite, crystal-clear and elegant charm.

Hydroponic time and method: The flowering period of cyclamen is generally from October to June of the following year, so the hydroponic time is generally from September to April of the following year. Remove the selected cyclamen plant from the pot, wash the substrate adhering to the root system with 20°C warm water, and be careful not to damage the roots. Then place it directly into a pre-prepared container, with the water depth level with the root zone, and at most not exceeding 1/3 of the corm, to avoid corm rot. Finally place it in a suitable indoor position, add water regularly, and add nutrient solution. After two to three months of hydroponics, after the flowers fade, take out the plant and plant it in cultivation substrate to spend the summer.

Water quality and water temperature: The water used for hydroponic cyclamen is best mountain spring water or magnetized water. The water quality is clean, not turbid, does not precipitate, and contains various trace elements necessary for plants. During the entire hydroponic period, there is no need to change the water. Tap water contains chlorine, which is unfavorable for flower growth, and is also prone to turbidity and precipitation, requiring a water change every few days, so it should be avoided as much as possible. The water temperature should be close to the indoor temperature at the time, generally 10°C to 20°C.

Light and indoor temperature: Cyclamen likes a sunny environment. The hydroponic container should be placed on a desktop or windowsill with sufficient indoor sunlight, and should not be placed directly on a radiator. The most suitable indoor temperature is 15°C to 20°C, with the maximum not exceeding 25°C and the minimum not lower than 10°C. Adding nutrient solution: Hydroponic cyclamen also needs regular nutrient supplementation during the flowering period. Generally, every 10 days add 50 ml of 1:100 flowering plant nutrient solution per plant. Mountain spring water should also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. If yellow leaves, small leaves, small flowers, etc. are found, after ruling out root rot, an appropriate amount of additional nutrient solution can be added as circumstances require.