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How to Grow Alocasia (Drooping Spathiphyllum)? Introduction to Water and Soil Cultivation Methods

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Alocasia, also known as Drooping Lotus and Bergamot Lotus, has a delicate inner essence, with large leaves that are not ostentatious, subtle and understated. Because its flowers resemble Guanyin and it drips water from the leaf tips when well-watered, it has earned the beautiful name "Drooping Guanyin," and is often used by people to decorate interiors. Despite its beautiful name and inner refinement

Alocasia, also known as Drooping Lotus and Bergamot Lotus, has a delicate inner essence, with large leaves that are not ostentatious, subtle and understated. Because its flowers resemble Guanyin and it drips water from the leaf tips when well-watered, it has earned the beautiful name "Drooping Guanyin," and is often used by people to decorate interiors. Despite its beautiful name and inner refinement, not many people know how to grow Alocasia. Here, the editor will introduce some cultivation methods for Alocasia.

Propagation Methods for Alocasia

The main propagation methods for Alocasia are division, seeding, and cuttings. Detailed descriptions are as follows.

1. Division and Seeding

Every summer and autumn, the tubers of Alocasia (Alocasia macrorrhizos) will sprout small leaf-bearing plantlets, which can be divided when repotting and changing soil. After fruiting in autumn, collect the orange-red seeds and sow them immediately, or dry and store them to sow after the following spring.

2. Cutting Propagation

Cutting propagation is for perennial old plants. Combined with plant renewal, cut the stem about 5 cm above the soil surface from the base of the plant for stem cutting propagation. In the cutting propagation of Alocasia, cutting the stem has the following benefits:

① The plant loses its apical growth dominance, allowing nutrients to accumulate at the base and prompting massive sprouting from the roots and stem base, which helps with propagation speed and quantity;

② The cut old stem can be cut into segments about 15 cm long, placed in a shaded area to air-dry for half a day, and then inserted into sandy loam soil for cultivation. Especially the segment at the top that is still growing - after removing all mature leaves, it can be directly potted as a single plant, with cutting and cultivation proceeding simultaneously. After two months of cultivation, it becomes a well-formed plant with large leaves, dense branching, and a sturdy, compact stature, which placed indoors has a certain elegant charm. Stem cutting of Alocasia is suitable in spring, summer, and autumn. During the cutting period, keep the substrate (6 parts sand : 4 parts garden soil) moist, and increase air humidity. After about 7-10 days, many thick roots will grow. During the cultivation of old plants, due to the shaded and humid environment or daily morning and evening misting of the leaves in summer and autumn, a few new shoots may occasionally sprout on the old stems (especially on the stem base left after cutting), with many aerial roots attached. These can be broken off from where the offset meets the mother plant and potted for planting.

Soil Cultivation Methods for Alocasia

1. Timely planting: In April-May, transplant the small seedlings into flower pots. After watering thoroughly to settle the roots, place the pots in a shaded area for about 1 week. After 2-3 days, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once. Alocasia cultivation is relatively simple; leaf mold soil, peat soil, or fine sandy soil can all be used for potting. When the soil is loose, fertile, and has sufficient base fertilizer, the leaves will be large and the leaf color will be emerald green.

2. Fertilizer and water management: During the growing season from April to October, liquid fertilizer must be applied once a week, with particular emphasis on increasing the amount of nitrogen fertilizer. Only then can the leaves grow large. When fertilizer is insufficient, the leaves become small and yellow. Alocasia prefers warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. From April to November, water more frequently; it grows rapidly above 25°C. A dry environment is very unfavorable for its growth. During cultivation, mist around it more to increase air humidity. During the growing season of Alocasia, it is better to keep it wet than dry; during the winter dormant period, watering should be controlled as much as possible, and moving it indoors will ensure it survives the winter safely.

3. Sunlight: From June to October, shading is needed, blocking 50-70% of sunlight. With moisture, semi-shade, and sufficient fertilizer, the leaves can develop their original characteristics - large and spreading, and the plant will be spectacular and upright. Although Alocasia prefers semi-shaded environments, being placed long-term in living rooms, bedrooms, and other locations with insufficient light has a great impact on the plant's life activities. The formation of many plant organs is directly related to light intensity. With insufficient or no light, the plant's internodes become especially long, leaves become underdeveloped and small, and lack chlorophyll, appearing yellow.

4. Repotting: After Qingming Festival the following year, move the Alocasia outdoors so the plant receives sunlight for photosynthesis and quickly resumes growth. After 2 weeks, repot. Sprinkle the pot soil with water, remove the plant from the pot, remove soil from the roots, cut off diseased and rotten roots, then pot it, cover with new soil mixed with base fertilizer, water thoroughly to settle the roots, place in a shaded area for about 1 week, and after 2-3 days apply a dilute fertilizer solution once.

Now that everyone has learned about the soil cultivation methods for Alocasia, let's look together at the water cultivation methods and cultivation precautions for Alocasia.

Water Cultivation Methods for Alocasia

For hydroponic Alocasia, the root-washing method can be used to convert soil-grown plants to hydroponic plants. When washing the roots, be careful and try not to damage the tubers and root system. Also cut off rotten roots and aged roots. If the tuber has no roots, first place it in a shaded area to dry for 2-3 days, and after the wound dries, immerse it in water. After 2-3 days, new roots will emerge.

In the early hydroponic stage, change the water every 2-3 days. The water depth should be enough to submerge 2/3 of the root system. After a week, new roots will grow. After 3 weeks, once the hydroponic plant has adapted to the hydroponic environment, switch to nutrient solution culture. After that, change the nutrient solution about once a month.

Since the stem tissue of Alocasia is relatively loose, poor water quality can easily lead to contamination, causing root rot and stem decay. Therefore, keep the bottle water clean. Also, when changing water or nutrient solution, clean the mucus from the tubers and roots, and cut off rotten roots.

Since Alocasia grows very fast, it has a relatively high fertilizer demand. Apply nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium compound fertilizer 1-2 times a month (with a slightly higher proportion of nitrogen), and if a little ferrous sulfate can be applied, the leaves will be larger and greener. Long-term fertilizer deficiency can easily cause the lower part of the Alocasia stem to become bare, affecting its ornamental value. When the temperature drops and it enters the dormant period, fertilizer can be reduced or stopped.

If you want the Alocasia grown indoors to be small and delicate, simply wait until its seedlings grow to about one chi (approximately 33 cm) and are suitable for home placement, then immediately spray the entire plant with a 2% paclobutrazol solution. The stems and leaves that grow afterward will not exceed 40 cm in height, and the leaves will be thick and fleshy with high ornamental value. Spraying once every six months or so can achieve a good height-control effect.

Precautions for Growing Alocasia

1. Temperature. Alocasia can only grow well in an environment not lower than 18°C. If the temperature is below 18°C, Alocasia will enter a dormant state and stop growing.

2. Fertilizing. Alocasia has a high fertilizer demand; fertilize it every month.

3. Watering. In summer, water Alocasia more frequently, but not excessively. It is suitable to alternate between dry and wet; there should be no standing water in the soil, otherwise the tubers will rot. In winter, it goes dormant; water less and stop fertilizing.

4. Sunlight. Alocasia prefers shade; do not expose it to direct sunlight. If Alocasia becomes "withered," it is mainly due to insufficient fertilizer; pay attention to additional fertilizing.

5. Toxicity. The white sap in the stems of Alocasia is toxic, and the dripping water is also toxic. Accidental contact with or ingestion of the sap will cause discomfort in the throat and mouth, with a burning sensation in the stomach. Special care should be taken to prevent young children from ingesting it. However, Alocasia is not a carcinogenic plant.

6. Alocasia prefers warm, humid, and slightly shaded environments, but during the flowering period it needs sufficient sunlight; otherwise, the spathe will be greenish, affecting quality. Ensure 3—5 hours of sunlight per day, otherwise the leaf stalks will elongate, affecting ornamental value. Alocasia has weak cold resistance; it should be moved into a greenhouse in mid-October. In summer, under shaded conditions, frequently mist to cool and maintain moisture.

Is Alocasia Toxic | Alocasia Cultivation Methods | Alocasia Cultivation Methods and Precautions

Is Alocasia toxic?

Yes, Alocasia is toxic. If there are children or pets at home, it is not recommended to grow it. Alocasia is also known as "Drooping Lotus" and Bergamot Lotus. Other common names include Henyutou, Langdu (Guangdong), Wild Taro, Mountain Taro, Large-root Taro, Big Worm Taro, Tianyu, Tianmeng, etc. What is called "calla lily" in Taiwan, China refers to Alocasia.

The scientific name of Alocasia is Alocasia macrorrhizos, anciently called "Guanyin Lotus" and "Shameful Sky Grass." It has the effect of removing dust from the air.

Experts remind flower enthusiasts that the white sap in the stems of Alocasia is toxic, and the dripping water is also toxic. Accidental contact with or ingestion of the sap will cause discomfort in the throat and mouth, with a burning sensation in the stomach. Special care should be taken to prevent young children from ingesting it. However, Alocasia is not a carcinogenic plant.

Because Alocasia is toxic, skin contact with its sap will cause itching or strong irritation, and eye contact with the sap can cause severe conjunctivitis, or even blindness. Accidentally eating the stems and leaves will cause symptoms of nausea and pain, and in severe cases, suffocation, leading to cardiac paralysis and death. Therefore, contact with Alocasia should be minimized, and families with children should preferably not grow it.

Alocasia Pictures:

Propagation Methods for Alocasia:

(1) Division, seeding, and other methods can be used. Every summer and autumn, the tubers of Alocasia will sprout small leaf-bearing plantlets, which can be divided when repotting and changing soil. After fruiting in autumn, collect the orange-red seeds and sow them immediately, or dry and store them to sow after the following spring.

(2) Stem cutting of Alocasia is for perennial old plants. Combined with plant renewal, cut the stem about 5 cm above the soil surface from the base of the plant for stem cutting propagation. Cutting the stem of Alocasia has two benefits: first, because the plant loses its apical growth dominance, nutrients accumulate at the base, prompting massive sprouting from the roots and stem base, which helps with propagation speed and quantity; second, the cut old stem can be cut into segments about 15 cm long, placed in a shaded area to air-dry for half a day, and then inserted into sandy loam soil for cultivation. Especially the segment at the top that is still growing - after removing all mature leaves, it can be directly potted as a single plant, with cutting and cultivation proceeding simultaneously. After two months of cultivation, it becomes a well-formed plant with large leaves, dense branching, and a sturdy, compact stature, which placed indoors has a certain elegant charm. Stem cutting of Alocasia is suitable in spring, summer, and autumn. During the cutting period, keep the substrate (6 parts sand : 4 parts garden soil) moist, and increase air humidity. After about 7-10 days, many thick roots will grow. During the cultivation of old plants, due to the shaded and humid environment or daily morning and evening misting of the leaves in summer and autumn, a few new shoots may occasionally sprout on the old stems (especially on the stem base left after cutting), with many aerial roots attached. These can be broken off from where the offset meets the mother plant and potted for planting.

Cultivation Methods for Alocasia:

Cultivation Methods for Alocasia: Alocasia is a very common home-grown green potted plant, but because it is a tropical plant, it generally does not bloom in the north. However, if the temperature and other conditions at home are suitable, it will also bloom.

It has low requirements for soil, but grows best in well-drained, organic-containing sandy loam or humus loam. Since Alocasia naturally prefers warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments and is not cold-tolerant, during the growing season, the pot soil must be kept moist.

It is now summer, so the flower pot should be placed in a semi-shaded, ventilated area, and water should be frequently sprayed around and on the leaves to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature, and keep the leaves clean.

Since Alocasia grows very fast, during the growing process, fertilizing must be done in moderation. Applying a dilute fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium 1-2 times a month is sufficient; otherwise, it can easily cause the lower part of the Alocasia stem to become bare, affecting its ornamental value.

Alocasia is a flower that loves plenty of water and fertilizer. It likes full sunlight and prefers loose leaf mold soil or sandy loam. Apart from appropriate shading during the hot midsummer, it is best to provide all-day sunlight in other seasons. In addition, Alocasia especially loves high-temperature and high-humidity climates. At noon every day in midsummer, spray water on the leaves to increase air humidity; only then can the leaves of Alocasia become large and thick.

If too shaded, the leaves will become larger but thinner, and the leaf stalks will also be brittle. Long and broken leaf stalks are due to lack of light. Alocasia should be placed in a bright indoor area, such as by a window, requiring at least 35 hours of light per day. Bright light is fine, but it cannot be exposed to harsh sun. Alocasia loves water; if the leaves become soft, it should be watered. Regularly applying a little ferrous sulfate can make the leaves greener, larger, and thicker.

Cultivation Methods:

1. Temperature. Alocasia can only grow well in an environment not lower than 18°C. If the temperature is below 18°C, Alocasia will enter a dormant state and stop growing.

2. Fertilizing. Alocasia has a high fertilizer demand; fertilize it every month.

3. Watering. In summer, water Alocasia more frequently, but not excessively. It is suitable to alternate between dry and wet; there should be no standing water in the soil, otherwise the tubers will rot. In winter, it goes dormant; water less and stop fertilizing.

4. Sunlight. Alocasia prefers shade; do not expose it to direct sunlight. If Alocasia becomes "withered," it is mainly due to insufficient fertilizer; pay attention to additional fertilizing.

In summer, the flower pot should be placed in a ventilated indoor area without direct sunlight. Frequently spray water around and on the leaves to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature, and keep the leaves clean. But watering should not be excessive, otherwise the tubers will rot. Alternating between dry and wet, with no standing water, is best.

Alocasia grows rapidly in summer and has a high nutrient demand. Every 15-20 days, alternately apply decomposed soybean cake water and other liquid fertilizers with compound fertilizer (preferring nitrogen fertilizer); otherwise, it can easily cause the lower part of the stem to become bare, with yellow leaves or smaller leaves. Apply a 2% ferrous sulfate solution about every 20 days to make Alocasia leaves larger, thicker, and greener. When Alocasia has grown to a size suitable for home placement, spray the entire plant with a 2% paclobutrazol solution. The plant will not only be small and delicate but also have thick leaves with higher ornamental value.

In winter, Alocasia prefers warm, humid, and slightly shaded environments, but during the flowering period it needs sufficient sunlight; otherwise, the spathe will be greenish, affecting quality. Ensure 3-5 hours of sunlight per day, otherwise the leaf stalks will elongate, affecting ornamental value. Alocasia has weak cold resistance; it should be moved into a greenhouse in mid-October. In summer, under shaded conditions, frequently mist to cool and maintain moisture. Alocasia prefers moist, fertile soil, which is commonly called "heavy fertilizer and heavy water." During the growing period, water more frequently.

Cultivation Methods and Precautions for Hydroponic Alocasia

Alocasia is abundantly produced in central-southern, western to southeastern Yunnan Province and southern Sichuan. Below are our compiled cultivation methods and precautions for hydroponic Alocasia, which we hope will be helpful to everyone.

Cultivation Methods for Hydroponic Alocasia:

1. Choose the Alocasia you want to grow hydroponically, then rinse the roots thoroughly. Remember to rinse them clean.

2. Since the stem and root tissues of Alocasia are relatively loose, it has high requirements for water quality. Keep the water clear and hygienic; otherwise, the stems and roots will easily rot.

3. In summer, increase the frequency of water changes, requiring air humidity of no less than 60%. Spray water frequently to create a relatively cool and humid environment. In winter, to maintain its dark green leaf color, generally spray warm water once a week.

4. The water level only needs to submerge 2/3 of the root system; plant roots need to breathe oxygen, so they should not be completely submerged. Frequently clean the inner walls of the container to prevent algae from growing.

5. The sap in the stems and leaves of Alocasia is toxic. During care and management, be careful not to let it enter the mouth; contact with skin will cause itching and redness. Rinse promptly with water, or wear plastic gloves for safer handling.

Precautions for Growing Hydroponic Alocasia:

For hydroponic Alocasia, the root-washing method can be used to convert soil-grown plants to hydroponic plants. When washing the roots, be careful and try not to damage the tubers and root system. Also cut off rotten roots and aged roots. If the tuber has no roots, first place it in a shaded area to dry for 2-3 days, and after the wound dries, immerse it in water. After 2-3 days, new roots will emerge.

In the early hydroponic stage, change the water every 2-3 days. The water depth should be enough to submerge 2/3 of the root system. After a week, new roots will grow. After 3 weeks, once the hydroponic plant has adapted to the hydroponic environment, switch to nutrient solution culture. After that, change the nutrient solution about once a month.

When growing Alocasia hydroponically, be sure to change the water promptly to prevent mucus from deteriorating water quality. The temperature of the new water should be the same as or similar to the old water; there should not be too great a temperature difference. Each time you change the water, clean the mucus and algae from the Alocasia roots thoroughly. Only rinse with water; do not wash by hand, otherwise the root system will be damaged.

In summer, change the water once a week; in spring and autumn, during the vigorous growth period, although more oxygen is consumed, the dissolved oxygen in the water is relatively more abundant than in summer, so water can be changed every 10-12 days in these seasons; in winter, change water every 20 days. If conditions permit, appropriately shortening the water-change interval is beneficial to the growth of Alocasia.

Medicinal Value of Alocasia:

Nature and Flavor: Pungent; cold in nature; toxic.

Meridian Entry: Heart meridian; Liver meridian; Gallbladder meridian; Large Intestine meridian.

Functions: Clearing heat and detoxifying; promoting qi circulation and relieving pain; dissipating nodules and reducing swelling.

① "Compendium of Materia Medica": Pungent, highly toxic.

② "Guangxi Traditional Chinese Medicine Records": Tasteless, cold in nature, highly toxic.

③ "Sichuan Traditional Chinese Medicine Records": Warm in nature, pungent in taste, toxic. [6]

Functions and Indications

Treats malarial fevers, acute vomiting and diarrhea, typhoid fever, rheumatic pain, hernia, leukorrhea with reddish-white discharge, carbuncles and swellings, atrophic rhinitis, scrofula, boils, scabies, and snake and dog bites.

① "Compendium of Materia Medica": Treats malarial fevers, toxic swellings, and wind leprosy.

② "Classified Materia Medica": Treats all malignant sores and toxic swellings; grind into powder and apply with wine.

③ "Tianbao Materia Medica": Apply to boils and scabies.

④ "Guangxi Traditional Chinese Medicine Records": Treats pulmonary tuberculosis, heatstroke, febrile diseases, etc.

⑤ "Sichuan Traditional Chinese Medicine Records": Treats internal and external hemorrhoids.

The above is our sharing of the cultivation methods and precautions for hydroponic Alocasia. We hope you enjoy it.

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