Boxwood Tree Planting Methods and Cultivation Techniques Explained in Detail

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Boxwood is not strict about soil requirements; it can be grown in sandy soil, loam, or brown earth, but loam rich in organic matter is best. When preparing the land, the ground should be level. Along with deep plowing, apply organic fertilizer at about 2000 kg per mu. When applying base fertilizer, note that the organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed and applied deep in the planting holes. Under the climatic conditions of the Beijing area, seedlings are mainly planted in spring, generally two or three days before "Qingming" in early April. For open-field planting of boxwood, the general row spacing is 0.5×1.5 or 0.4×1.2 m, with about 1000-1500 plants planted per mu.

As the trees age, every other seedling can later be lifted. Boxwood seedlings in nutrient pots can be planted in holes or furrows. Before planting, set out lines and mark points according to the planned row and plant spacing, then dig holes at the points or open furrows according to the planting row spacing. The furrow depth should be greater than the depth of the seedling roots, about 40 cm deep. Before planting, apply base fertilizer deeply, mixing fully decomposed organic fertilizer evenly with soil and placing it at the bottom of the holes. When planting, remove the nutrient pots from the seedlings, arrange them in the furrows according to plant spacing, make the roots contact the soil, and firm the soil by treading. When firming after covering with soil, do not tread the root ball to pieces; tread in the gaps between the root ball and the planting hole. The soil covering depth should be slightly deeper than the original soil mark, so as to prevent the soil from sinking after watering and exposing the roots, which would affect survival.

Watering

Watering is the main measure to ensure the survival of planted seedlings. This is especially true in the dry, rain-scarce northern spring with high evaporation; if the water supply is insufficient, the seedling survival rate will be seriously affected. After planting, soil ridges can be built between every 4 to 6 rows to facilitate irrigation. The first watering should be done within 24 hours after planting, the second after 3 to 5 days, and the third after another 5 to 7 days. After the three waterings, whether to water again can be decided according to the weather and the condition of the seedlings.

The amount of water should not be too much or too little. If too much, the soil becomes soft and the seedlings tend to lodge; if too little, survival is affected. After planted seedlings are watered or receive relatively heavy rain, they tend to lodge, tilt, or expose their roots. If this happens, they should immediately be straightened, earthed up, and firmed. Otherwise, because the seedlings are sprouting and growing, the stems will bend within a few days. When straightening seedlings, first dig away the soil near the seedling roots, straighten the seedlings, align the direction between rows and between plants, and then return the soil and firm it. If after three consecutive irrigations the seedbed soil sinks and pits appear, level and fill the soil promptly. This can also be combined with cultivating to rake the ground level, so that the seedlings receive a consistent amount of water and uneven drought or waterlogging is prevented. Boxwood prefers water, and the principle of "prefer wet over dry" should be followed in watering.

In the seedling stage, the root system is relatively shallow and sensitive to moisture. Generally, the goal is to keep the surface soil moist, so irrigation should be frequent but in small amounts. During the rapid growth period, the seedlings grow quickly and need a large amount of water, so heavy irrigation should be used, alternating wet and dry conditions, watering fully and soaking thoroughly. However, in the later growth stage, to prevent excessive vegetative growth and promote lignification, irrigation should be stopped. Generally, water control should begin in late summer. Irrigation timing: each watering is best done in the morning and evening, not at noon when the temperature is highest.

Cultivation and Weeding

Cultivation and weeding are routine tasks in seedling-stage management. Cultivation and weeding are two concepts, but they can be carried out together.

Generally, cultivation and weeding are best done after rain or irrigation. When the soil is moist, pull the weeds out with their roots, and the soil-loosening effect is also good. Not long after seedlings are planted, most of the soil surface is exposed to the air, so the soil dries very easily and weeds grow readily. During this period, cultivation and weeding should be done promptly to help promote the development of the seedling root system.

Generally, cultivation near the seedling roots should be slightly shallow, while between rows and plants it can be appropriately deeper, usually 3 to 5 cm. Cultivating during the rainy season promotes gas exchange and the evaporation of gaseous water, which can prevent waterlogging of the seedlings. In northern regions, spring is generally dry, and weeds have stopped growing in autumn, so cultivation should be the main task in these two periods, while weeding should be the main task in summer. The rapid growth period of weeds is before and after the rainy season. Weeding should be strengthened during this period, and the principle of removing early, removing small, and removing completely should be adhered to. For perennial weeds, the underground parts must all be dug out; otherwise, they will become harder and harder to clear.

Topdressing

Topdressing can promptly supplement the large nutrient needs of seedlings during vigorous growth and development, promote seedling growth and development, and improve quality. Boxwood needs relatively more phosphorus in the seedling stage, more nitrogen during the peak growing season, and more potassium in autumn when growth stops.

After the seedlings are planted, a 0.4% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed on the leaves, preferably on cloudy days or in the morning and evening when the air is moist. Generally, spraying potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves three to four times a month is sufficient. Newly transplanted boxwood seedlings should be fertilized early, but note that the fertilizer concentration must not be too high, so as not to burn the new roots. During the rapid growth period of the seedlings, the amount and frequency of fertilization should be increased, no less than once a month. Urea can be used for nitrogen topdressing, in two ways: dry application and wet application.

Dry application can be done by broadcasting or trenching. Broadcasting means evenly spreading chemical fertilizer onto the soil between the seedlings, then shallow hoeing 1-2 times to cover it with soil; trenching means opening furrows between the seedling rows, generally 15-20 cm from the seedling roots, applying the chemical fertilizer into the furrows, and then covering with soil. When trenching, note that the furrow depth should be within the root distribution layer, so as to facilitate the seedlings' absorption of fertilizer. Wet application means dissolving the fertilizer in water and sprinkling it comprehensively over the seedbed or between rows, preferably followed by one more watering to avoid burning damage. Nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in spring and summer, and the last nitrogen application must not be later than "Liqiu." This prevents excessive vegetative growth of the seedlings and reduces the wintering ability of boxwood seedlings. In August to September, nitrogen fertilizer must be stopped, and fertilization should focus mainly on phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. This promotes the lignification and root growth of boxwood seedlings and improves their cold resistance.

Shaping and Pruning

Boxwood itself has a strong apical dominance, strong sprouting ability, and relatively weak branching ability. Through proper shaping and pruning, an ideal trunk and full side branches can be cultivated, making the tree body rounded, symmetrical, compact, and sturdy.

For boxwood, both winter pruning and summer pruning are suitable. Generally, shaping and pruning are mostly carried out during the summer and autumn growth season. As shaping and pruning proceed, the cut branches can be used for cutting propagation. Shaping generally refers to young trees, while pruning refers to large trees (or large seedlings). Shaping and pruning during the seedling stage are very important for the future tree body and tree form.

Boxwood seedlings generally have an obvious main stem, and the side branches mostly grow on the middle and lower parts of the tree body. In shaping and pruning, trunk cutting is generally not used; the main trunk is retained and the growth vigor of the terminal shoot is maintained, so that the tree body can later grow straight and tall. For the side branches at the base of young trees, they can be cut back entirely, or lightly cut back, retaining only a small number of buds.

As ornamental tree forms, boxwood is mostly spire-shaped or conical. Under normal circumstances, pruning of mature trees is only to remove water sprouts and competing branches sprouting from the trunk and stem, avoiding the formation of double leaders and double trunks. If multiple leaders appear and affect the height development of the crown, the main branch or a replacement main branch should be identified early to cultivate the advantage of height growth while also making the side branches evenly distributed. Generally, when cultivating the framework branches, only 30-40 cm of trunk is exposed at the lower part, and the main branches above are then allowed to distribute evenly; the trunk can also be left taller as needed, depending specifically on future use.

Seedling Protection

In the seedling stage, the seedling tissues are tender, and because the planting time is not long, the plant root system is not very developed and does not root deeply, so the stress resistance of the seedlings is not strong at this time. Seedling-stage protection work is very important. In production, correct cultivation techniques must be adopted to promote robust seedling growth, enhance resistance, and create environmental conditions unfavorable to the occurrence and development of disastrous factors, so as to improve seedling yield and quality.

1. Frost damage

In early spring or late autumn, when seedlings have not yet lignified, the tissues are tender and contain more water. When the temperature drops below 0°C for a short time, the cells of the tender parts of the seedlings are harmed by freezing and dehydration. In cultivation technical measures, the following points should be noted: when choosing planting sites, seedlings should not be planted in forest gaps, narrow valleys, or low-lying sections where cold currents easily gather; plant seedlings at the proper time, and open-field planting of seedlings should not be done too late after the beginning of autumn; in the later stage of seedling growth, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer, water less or not at all, so as to control excessive growth and promote seedling lignification. According to weather forecasts, use smoke measures by lighting half-dry firewood and grass to make smoke cover the ground and prevent frost. Under normal circumstances, boxwood seedlings have extremely strong frost resistance, and only slight attention is needed in production.

2. Winter protection

Boxwood has strong cold resistance. Adult large trees can still remain green and keep their leaves at a low temperature of -23.9°C. However, for production units, appropriate winter protection during the seedling stage is necessary. Good winter protection can accelerate seedling growth, improve seedling quality, and lay a good foundation for rapid seedling growth when spring begins the following year. This is especially true in northern regions, where winters are severe and the air is dry. If seedlings are not protected, although boxwood's own cold resistance is strong and the plants will not die, the "autumn shoots" grown in autumn will suffer tip dieback due to insufficient lignification, affecting the growth height of the seedlings; moreover, the seedlings recover growth slowly the following spring, which is not conducive to rapidly producing high-quality finished seedlings. After winter begins and before the land freezes, after giving the seedlings enough freezing water, begin protection by the support-and-film covering method.

Drive a wooden stake at both ends and in the middle of each seedling row every 5-6 m. The stake height only needs to be about 20 cm higher than the seedling height. Stretch a wire or other relatively strong cord across the stakes. Use plastic film to build a small "tent" for each row of seedlings, and bury both sides and both ends of the plastic film firmly with soil so that no wind gets through. This continues until the temperature rises and stabilizes the following spring. The support-and-plastic-film covering method has the effect of delaying the soil freezing period, advancing the thawing period, and extending the growth period. At the same time, because there is no wind inside the small shed and the humidity is high, the seedlings will not suffer physiological drought. After the plastic film is opened the following year, the seedlings can grow rapidly. With this method for winter protection of seedlings, the seedling growth amount is as much as twice that of seedlings without protection.

Pest and Disease Control

Boxwood has strong resistance to pests and diseases and is not easily harmed by them. However, because garden nurseries are managed as intensive cultivation, with high planting density and many tree species, pests from other tree species can easily spread and proliferate, such as red spiders and aphids during dry summer periods. If found, spraying some conventional pesticides is enough. The main pests targeting boxwood are the boxwood looper and longhorn beetles.

The boxwood looper damages by feeding on leaves as larvae, mainly occurring in seasons with mild climate and abundant rainfall. Control methods: in the early stage of larval damage, spray pesticides promptly. Control agents include: 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution or 20% fenvalerate at 5000 times dilution.

Longhorn beetles are mainly brown longhorn beetles, which mainly bore into and feed on the main trunk or main branches as larvae. The damage period is mainly the high-temperature and dry season. Control methods: strengthen tree vigor. Longhorn beetles are secondary pests and mainly harm weak trees. During high-temperature and dry seasons, pay attention to drought resistance and keep the trees vigorous. Manually capture adults on stuffy nights or at noon. To poison larvae, use a syringe to inject 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 5 to 10 times dilution into the larval tunnels.

Boxwood Cultivation Techniques

Watering

Cultivation and Weeding

Cultivation and weeding are routine tasks in seedling-stage management. Cultivation and weeding are two concepts, but they can be carried out together.

Topdressing

Introduction to Boxwood Planting Methods

There are many ways to plant boxwood; it can be said that everyone who plants boxwood has their own method! Boxwood is planted by people because its utilization value is very high! Moreover, boxwood is easy to manage; unlike other plants, it is not difficult to plant successfully! Boxwood is tall and upright, and raising seedlings is also easy to transplant. Boxwood has a noise-reducing effect, so it can generally be seen beside roads! Planting boxwood is not difficult. Now I will introduce a boxwood planting method suitable for everyone!

Planting Methods

Boxwood is not strict about soil requirements; it can be grown in sandy soil, loam, or brown earth, but loam rich in organic matter is best

Boxwood Planting

soil. When preparing the land, the ground should be level. Along with deep plowing, apply organic fertilizer at about 2000 kg per mu. When applying base fertilizer, note that the organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed and applied deep in the planting holes. Under the climatic conditions of the Beijing area, seedlings are mainly planted in spring, generally two or three days before "Qingming" in early April. For open-field planting of boxwood, the general row spacing is 0.5×1.5 or 0.4×1.2 m, with about 1000-1500 plants planted per mu. As the trees age, every other seedling can later be lifted. Hokkaido boxwood seedlings in nutrient pots can be planted in holes or furrows. Before planting, set out lines and mark points according to the planned row and plant spacing, then dig holes at the points or open furrows according to the planting row spacing. The furrow depth should be greater than the depth of the seedling roots, about 40 cm deep. Before planting, apply base fertilizer deeply, mixing fully decomposed organic fertilizer evenly with soil and placing it at the bottom of the holes. When planting, remove the nutrient pots from the seedlings, arrange them in the furrows according to plant spacing, make the roots contact the soil, and firm the soil by treading. When firming after covering with soil, do not tread the root ball to pieces; tread in the gaps between the root ball and the planting hole. The soil covering depth should be slightly deeper than the original soil mark, so as to prevent the soil from sinking after watering and exposing the roots, which would affect survival.

Post-planting Management

(1) Watering. Watering is the main measure to ensure the survival of planted seedlings. This is especially true in the dry, rain-scarce northern spring with high evaporation; if the water supply is insufficient, the seedling survival rate will be seriously affected. After planting, soil ridges can be built between every 4 to 6 rows to facilitate irrigation. The first watering should be done within 24 hours after planting, the second after 3 to 5 days, and the third after another 5 to 7 days. After the three waterings, whether to water again can be decided according to the weather and the condition of the seedlings. The amount of water should not be too much or too little. If too much, the soil becomes soft and the seedlings tend to lodge; if too little, survival is affected. After planted seedlings are watered or receive relatively heavy rain, they tend to lodge, tilt, or expose their roots. If this happens, they should immediately be straightened, earthed up, and firmed. Otherwise, because the seedlings are sprouting and growing, the stems will bend within a few days. When straightening seedlings, first dig away the soil near the seedling roots, straighten the seedlings, align the direction between rows and between plants, and then return the soil and firm it. If after three consecutive irrigations the seedbed soil sinks and pits appear, level and fill the soil promptly. This can also be combined with cultivating to rake the ground level, so that the seedlings receive a consistent amount of water and uneven drought or waterlogging is prevented. Boxwood prefers water, and the principle of "prefer wet over dry" should be followed in watering. In the seedling stage, the root system is relatively shallow and sensitive to moisture. Generally, the goal is to keep the surface soil moist, so irrigation should be frequent but in small amounts. During the rapid growth period, the seedlings grow quickly and need a large amount of water, so heavy irrigation should be used, alternating wet and dry conditions, watering fully and soaking thoroughly. However, in the later growth stage, to prevent excessive vegetative growth and promote lignification, irrigation should be stopped. Generally, water control should begin in late summer. Irrigation timing: each watering is best done in the morning and evening, not at noon when the temperature is highest.

(2) Cultivation and weeding. Cultivation and weeding are routine tasks in seedling-stage management. Cultivation and weeding are two concepts, but they can be carried out together. Generally, cultivation and weeding are best done after rain or irrigation. When the soil is moist, pull the weeds out with their roots, and the soil-loosening effect is also good. Not long after seedlings are planted, most of the soil surface is exposed to the air, so the soil dries very easily and weeds grow readily. During this period, cultivation and weeding should be done promptly to help promote the development of the seedling root system. Generally, cultivation near the seedling roots should be slightly shallow, while between rows and plants it can be appropriately deeper, usually 3 to 5 cm. Cultivating during the rainy season promotes gas exchange and the evaporation of gaseous water, which can prevent waterlogging of the seedlings. In northern regions, spring is generally dry, and weeds have stopped growing in autumn, so cultivation should be the main task in these two periods, while weeding should be the main task in summer. The rapid growth period of weeds is before and after the rainy season. Weeding should be strengthened during this period, and the principle of removing early, removing small, and removing completely should be adhered to. For perennial weeds, the underground parts must all be dug out; otherwise, they will become harder and harder to clear.

(3) Topdressing. Topdressing can promptly supplement the large nutrient needs of seedlings during vigorous growth and development, promote seedling growth and development, and improve quality. Hokkaido boxwood needs relatively more phosphorus in the seedling stage, more nitrogen during the peak growing season, and more potassium in autumn when growth stops. After the seedlings are planted, a 0.4% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed on the leaves, preferably on cloudy days or in the morning and evening when the air is moist. Generally, spraying potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves three to four times a month is sufficient. Newly transplanted Hokkaido boxwood seedlings should be fertilized early, but note that the fertilizer concentration must not be too high, so as not to burn the new roots. During the rapid growth period of the seedlings, the amount and frequency of fertilization should be increased, no less than once a month. Urea can be used for nitrogen topdressing, in two ways: dry application and wet application. Dry application can be done by broadcasting or trenching. Broadcasting means evenly spreading chemical fertilizer onto the soil between the seedlings, then shallow hoeing 1-2 times to cover it with soil; trenching means opening furrows between the seedling rows, generally 15-20 cm from the seedling roots, applying the chemical fertilizer into the furrows, and then covering with soil. When trenching, note that the furrow depth should be within the root distribution layer, so as to facilitate the seedlings' absorption of fertilizer. Wet application means dissolving the fertilizer in water and sprinkling it comprehensively over the seedbed or between rows, preferably followed by one more watering to avoid burning damage. Nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in spring and summer, and the last nitrogen application must not be later than "Liqiu." This prevents excessive vegetative growth of the seedlings and reduces the wintering ability of Hokkaido boxwood seedlings. In August to September, nitrogen fertilizer must be stopped, and fertilization should focus mainly on phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. This promotes the lignification and root growth of Hokkaido boxwood seedlings and improves their cold resistance.

(4) Shaping and pruning. Hokkaido boxwood itself has a strong apical dominance, strong sprouting ability, and relatively weak branching ability in potted boxwood. Through proper shaping and pruning, an ideal trunk and full side branches can be cultivated, making the tree body rounded, symmetrical, compact, and sturdy. For Hokkaido boxwood, both winter pruning and summer pruning are suitable. Generally, shaping and pruning are mostly carried out during the summer and autumn growth season. As shaping and pruning proceed, the cut branches can be used for cutting propagation. Shaping generally refers to young trees, while pruning refers to large trees (or large seedlings). Shaping and pruning during the seedling stage are very important for the future tree body and tree form. Hokkaido boxwood seedlings generally have an obvious main stem, and the side branches mostly grow on the middle and lower parts of the tree body. In shaping and pruning, trunk cutting is generally not used; the main trunk is retained and the growth vigor of the terminal shoot is maintained, so that the tree body can later grow straight and tall. For the side branches at the base of young trees, they can be cut back entirely, or lightly cut back, retaining only a small number of buds. As ornamental tree forms, Hokkaido boxwood is mostly spire-shaped or conical. Under normal circumstances, pruning of mature trees is only to remove water sprouts and competing branches sprouting from the trunk and stem, avoiding the formation of double leaders and double trunks. If multiple leaders appear and affect the height development of the crown, the main branch or a replacement main branch should be identified early to cultivate the advantage of height growth while also making the side branches evenly distributed. Generally, when cultivating the framework branches, only 30-40 cm of trunk is exposed at the lower part, and the main branches above are then allowed to distribute evenly; the trunk can also be left taller as needed, depending specifically on future use.

(5) Seedling protection. In the seedling stage, the seedling tissues are tender, and because the planting time is not long, the plant root system is not very developed and does not root deeply, so the stress resistance of the seedlings is not strong at this time. Seedling-stage protection work is very important. In production, correct cultivation techniques must be adopted to promote robust seedling growth, enhance resistance, and create environmental conditions unfavorable to the occurrence and development of disastrous factors, so as to improve seedling yield and quality.

Well, that is all for my introduction to boxwood planting methods. Friends who are interested in planting boxwood can refer to it! You can also summarize a planting method of your own according to the characteristics and traits of boxwood! As the saying goes, if you want to succeed, you have to find a way. There are many methods for planting boxwood; it is not about finding a method that suits you, but about finding a method that suits planting boxwood. Boxwood planting methods are very easy and do not require too much management, because its self-growth ability is very strong!