A Detailed Guide to the Growing Conditions and Cultivation Techniques of Hyacinths

Hyacinth flowers come in a rich variety of colors. Through long periods of hybridization and propagation, hyacinths have gradually produced some special double-flowered varieties. The hyacinth is said to bury its heart, and its flower language includes: sorrowful love, eternal remembrance, and so on. It is a common variety for hydroponic flowers and plants. The cultivation methods for hyacinths are introduced below.

Growing Conditions for Hyacinths

1. Bulbs. The nutrients needed for hyacinths to bloom are mainly supplied by the nutrients stored in the scale leaves of the bulb. Only by selecting bulbs with undamaged outer skins, fleshy scales that are not excessively shriveled, and that are relatively hard, heavy and plump, can you produce abundant and beautiful flowers.

2. Soil. The soil should be fertile, high in organic matter, with good crumb structure, and a pH of 6 to 7. A growing medium can be prepared in the ratio of 5 parts leaf mold : 3 parts garden soil : 1.5 parts coarse sand : 0.5 part bone meal. Before planting, chemical agents such as formalin can be used: at a soil temperature of 10 to 15°C, apply the agent to the soil surface and immediately cover with plastic film. After 3 days of warm weather, remove the film, let it air for 1 day, and then plant, keeping the soil moist.

3. Light. Hyacinths need only above 5000 Lx to maintain normal physiological activity. Too little light will lead to weak, spindly plants, overly long stems, small flower buds, early flower fading, and yellowing leaves. An incandescent lamp can be used at a distance of about 1 m for supplemental lighting, but too much light can also cause scorching of leaves and petals or shorten the flowering period.

4. Temperature. If the temperature is too high, even above 35°C, flower bud differentiation will be inhibited, growth will become deformed, and the rate of blind flowers will increase. If the temperature is too low, the flower buds will suffer cold damage.

5. Humidity. Soil humidity should be kept between 60 and 70%. If too high, root respiration is inhibited and rot easily occurs; if too low, the aboveground parts wilt and may even die. Air humidity should be kept at around 80%, and can be increased by misting or sprinkling water on the ground, or reduced by measures such as ventilation.

Propagation Methods for Hyacinths

Bulb division is the main method of propagation. Seed propagation is used in breeding, and bulbs can also be used for propagation. After the mother bulb is planted for 1 year, it produces 1 to 2 daughter bulbs, and some varieties can produce more than ten daughter bulbs. These can be used for bulb division propagation. Daughter bulbs require 3 years to flower. For seed propagation, sow in autumn; germination occurs only in February of the following year, and seedlings take 4 to 5 years to flower.

1. Bulb Division Propagation

After digging up the bulbs in June, separate the large bulbs from the daughter bulbs. "Large bulbs planted in autumn can bloom in early spring of the following year, while daughter bulbs need 3 years of cultivation before they can bloom." Because the natural bulb division rate of hyacinths is low, generally a mother plant can produce only 1 to 2 daughter bulbs after one year of planting. To increase the propagation coefficient, during the summer dormant period the large bulbs can be subjected to a scoring operation to stimulate them to produce daughter bulbs.

In August, when the flower buds have already formed, first evenly scoop out part of the basal plate at the bottom of the bulb so that the wound at the basal plate forms a concave shape, then cut once vertically and once horizontally from bottom to top, forming a cross-shaped cut, deep enough to reach the bud center inside the bulb. At this time, mucus will flow out, and 0.1% mercuric chloride solution should be applied for disinfection. Then expose it to strong sunlight for 1 to 2 hours, and spread it flat indoors. First keep the room temperature at about 21°C to allow callus tissue to form. When the base of the scales swells, gradually raise the temperature to 30°C with a relative humidity of 85%, and in about three months many small bulbs will form. The small bulbs induced in this way take 3 to 4 years to bloom.

2. Seed Propagation

This is mostly used when breeding new varieties. In autumn, sow the seeds in the growing medium of a cold frame, cover with 1 cm of soil, and they germinate at the end of January to early February of the following year. The small bulbs grown from seedlings take 4 to 5 years to bloom. Under ordinary storage conditions, seed viability can be maintained for 3 years.

Cultivation Techniques for Hyacinths

For hyacinths, it is best to choose a well-drained, not-too-dry sandy loam soil, neutral to slightly alkaline. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer. In field cultivation, avoid continuous cropping. Cultivation methods include open-field cultivation, pot cultivation, forcing cultivation, and water culture.

1. Open-Field Cultivation

This is suitable from October to November, and choosing well-drained soil is the most important condition. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer, add a thin layer of sand on top, then arrange the bulbs with a plant spacing of 15 cm to 18 cm, and cover with 5 cm to 8 cm of soil. Also cover with grass to keep the soil loose and moist. Generally no other management is done before flowering. After flowering, if seeds are not to be collected, the flower stems should be cut off to promote bulb development, and the cut should be made as high on the flower stem as possible. In early June, the bulbs can be dug out, spread out, graded, and stored in a cold storage room. The summer temperature should not exceed 28°C.

2. Pot Cultivation Techniques

Use a mixture of loam, leaf mold, fine sand, and so on as the growing medium. Generally, a 10 cm diameter pot is planted with one bulb, and a 15 cm diameter pot with 2 to 3 bulbs. Then bury the pot in the soil, cover it with 10 cm to 15 cm of soil, and after 7 to 8 weeks, when the shoots have grown to more than 10 cm, remove the covering soil to allow sunlight exposure. Generally plant from October to November, and they bloom in March.

3. Water Culture Techniques

For water culture of hyacinths, the water level must leave a space of 1 to 2 cm from the basal plate of the bulb, so that the roots can breathe. Never fill the water so full that it covers the bottom of the bulb. In December, place the bulb in a wide-mouthed glass jar with a grid, and add a little charcoal to help disinfect and prevent rot. The hyacinth bulb only needs to be soaked up to the bottom of the bulb. Then place it in a dark place, and cover the jar with black cloth.

If using clean water, change the water every 7 days. If using a hydroponic nutrient solution, replace the nutrient solution every 10 to 15 days depending on the degree of cloudiness. In any case, keep the water in the jar clean. Hyacinths can be grown in a specially made gourd-shaped glass jar, and in the upper part you can enjoy its flower cluster.

During the water culture period of hyacinths, do not place them in direct sunlight before the bulb sprouts. After sprouting, place them in a bright, airy location with sunlight to benefit their growth. At first, give one to two hours of light per day, then gradually increase it to seven to eight hours. If the weather does not change much, they may bloom by the Spring Festival, and in the lower part you can see a bundle of thick white roots. This scene of both flowers and roots flourishing is hard to see in other flowers and plants except tropical orchids.

Pest and Disease Control for Hyacinths

Disease control for hyacinths should be based on strengthening management, with the principles of active prevention and integrated control. Because hyacinths have a relatively short growing period in the greenhouse, diseases are the main problem. Common diseases of hyacinths include sprout rot, soft rot, sclerotinia rot, and viral diseases. Strictly disinfect the substrate before planting, clean and disinfect the bulbs, and during the growing period spray once every 7 d with 1000 times Tuzet or chlorothalonil, used alternately, which can inhibit the spread of pathogens to a certain extent. Strictly control the amount of watering, strengthen ventilation management, control the relative air humidity in the environment, and promptly remove diseased plants as soon as they appear, which can greatly reduce the disease incidence.

1. Gray Mold

In the early stage of the disease, the tips of infected leaves change color, and the leaves shrivel and rot. Under cold and humid conditions, the flowers also rot. In the late stage of the disease, gray mold layers and black sclerotia form on the diseased parts. The pathogen overwinters as sclerotia in diseased residues and soil. When conditions are suitable, it produces conidia, which spread with wind and rain to cause infection and damage. Low temperature and high humidity favor the occurrence of the disease.

[Chemical Control] In the early stage of the disease, spray with 1:1:100 Bordeaux mixture, or 65% zineb wettable powder at 500 to 800 times, or 50% benomyl wettable powder at 1000 times, or Banxiuqing at 800 to 1000 times for control.

2. Root Nodule Disease

Hyacinth root swelling disease is also called root nodule disease. When the root system first develops, it is normal. When it elongates to a certain extent, small white nodules are produced, growth weakens, and sometimes small flower dry rot occurs, affecting growth and development. In severe cases, the whole plant dies.

[Control Methods]

① Strictly disinfect and sterilize during storage, pay attention to strengthening ventilation, check frequently, turn frequently, and promptly pick out diseased plants and burn them in a centralized manner.

② Strictly disinfect and sterilize the soil, do not practice continuous cropping, and do not reuse the growing soil.

③ During cultivation, promptly remove diseased plants when found, and carry out insect and sterilization treatment on the soil.

④ Strict quarantine to prevent diseased bulbs and diseased plants from entering the nursery.

How to plant hyacinths? Hyacinth planting methods and cultivation techniques

Hyacinth Planting Methods and Cultivation Techniques

Planting and Spread

The Netherlands is the main production area for hyacinths. In the 18th century, hyacinth cultivation was very popular, and more than two thousand varieties had been recorded at that time. By 1596, Britain had already used hyacinths for garden cultivation.

From the 18th century onward, they were widely cultivated in Europe, and breeding had already begun. To this day, the Netherlands, France, Britain, and Germany have industrialized hyacinth production. Among them, the Netherlands has the largest production volume and sells well throughout the world.

In 1995, the output value of hyacinth pot flowers was 12.2 million USD, ranking nineteenth in Dutch pot flower production. The Dutch company Phytonova is a major base for hyacinth breeding, production, and trade. To this day, hyacinths have been widely cultivated around the world, and demand has risen year by year. Cultivation of hyacinths in China began at the end of the 19th century, mainly in large coastal cities, and was not widespread.

Starting in the 1950s, only a small number were cultivated in botanical gardens and parks in various places for flowerbed viewing. It was not until after the 1980s that hyacinths developed considerably throughout the country, widely used in spring flower exhibitions and potted plant sales. To this day, cultivated hyacinths have begun to enter homes and public places for indoor decoration and display, and demand has increased year by year. However, China has not yet been able to propagate seeds on its own and still needs to introduce them from abroad.

Potted hyacinths prefer a warm and humid winter, a cool and slightly dry summer, and a sunny or semi-shaded environment. They like fertilizer and are suitable for fertile, well-drained sandy loam, avoiding excessively wet or heavy clay soil. During the growth process of hyacinths, the root system grows best when the bulb is at a low temperature of 2 to 6°C. The suitable temperature for bud break is 5 to 10°C, the suitable temperature for leaf growth is 5 to 12°C, and 15 to 18°C is most favorable during the bud appearance and flowering stage. The storage temperature for bulbs is 20 to 28°C, with 25°C being the most suitable and ideal for flower bud differentiation. They can tolerate short periods of frost.

Cultivation Techniques

For pot cultivation, choose loose, well-drained soil and apply sufficient base fertilizer. In October, plant the bulbs in pots, with 1 bulb per small pot and 3 to 4 bulbs per large pot, then cover with soil. The planting depth is 5-8 cm. After planting, keep the soil moist, and at the same time pay attention to applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After about 120 days they can bloom. Apply fertilizer once before and once after flowering. After the plants wither in June, dig out the bulbs, dry them, and store them indoors at a temperature not exceeding 28°C.

For hyacinths, it is best to choose a well-drained, not-too-dry sandy loam soil, neutral to slightly alkaline. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer. In field cultivation, avoid continuous cropping. Cultivation methods include open-field cultivation, pot cultivation, forcing cultivation, and water culture.

Open-Field Cultivation

This is suitable from October to November, and choosing well-drained soil is the most important condition. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer, add a thin layer of sand on top, then arrange the bulbs with a plant spacing of 15 cm to 18 cm, and cover with 5 cm to 8 cm of soil. Also cover with grass to keep the soil loose and moist. Generally no other management is done before flowering. After flowering, if seeds are not to be collected, the flower stems should be cut off to promote bulb development, and the cut should be made as high on the flower stem as possible. In early June, the bulbs can be dug out, spread out, graded, and stored in a cold storage room. The summer temperature should not exceed 28°C.

Pot Cultivation

Use a mixture of loam, leaf mold, fine sand, and so on as the growing medium. Generally, a 10 cm diameter pot is planted with one bulb, and a 15 cm diameter pot with 2 to 3 bulbs. Then bury the pot in the soil, cover it with 10 cm to 15 cm of soil, and after 7 to 8 weeks, when the shoots have grown to more than 10 cm, remove the covering soil to allow sunlight exposure. Generally plant from October to November, and they bloom in March.

Water Culture

For water culture of hyacinths, the water level must leave a space of 1-2 CM from the basal plate of the bulb, so that the roots can breathe. Never fill the water so full that it covers the bottom of the bulb. In December, place the bulb in a wide-mouthed glass jar with a grid, and add a little charcoal to help disinfect and prevent rot. The hyacinth bulb only needs to be soaked up to the bottom of the bulb. Then place it in a dark place, and cover the jar with black cloth. If using clean water, change the water every 7 days. If using a hydroponic nutrient solution, replace the nutrient solution every 10-15 days depending on the degree of cloudiness. In any case, keep the water in the jar clean. Hyacinths can be grown in a specially made gourd-shaped glass jar, and in the upper part you can enjoy its flower cluster.

During the water culture period of hyacinths, do not place them in direct sunlight before the bulb sprouts. After sprouting, place them in a bright, airy location with sunlight to benefit their growth. At first, give one to two hours of light per day, then gradually increase it to seven to eight hours. If the weather does not change much, they may bloom by the Spring Festival, and in the lower part you can see a bundle of thick white roots. This scene of both flowers and roots flourishing is hard to see in other flowers and plants except tropical orchids.

Key Points for Water Culture of Hyacinths:

1. There must be a gap of 2-3 mm between the bulb and the water surface.

2. During the shading period, the temperature is best kept at 9-10 degrees, so the roots will grow very quickly.

3. When flowering, the temperature is best kept above 17 degrees.

Hyacinths can be grown by water culture forcing in the same way as Chinese narcissus. Select large, plump bulbs, place them in a shallow basin and secure them with pebbles, then add clean water, with the amount of water limited so that it does not touch the bottom of the bulb. Place in a dark, cool place at a room temperature of 5 to 10°C. Darkness helps rooting, and roots can grow out in about 1 month. After the root system has grown fully, move it to a bright place without direct sunlight, with the temperature controlled at 10 to 13°C, and change the water once every 2 to 3 days to keep the water clean. After the leaves grow out, gradually increase the light. After bud appearance, it can receive direct sunlight, but be careful to frequently change the direction of light exposure so that the leaves and flower stems grow robustly and upright, preventing them from leaning to one side. Gradually raise the temperature to about 20°C, and change the water once every 3 to 4 days until the flowers fade. Then cut off the flower stems, take out the bulbs, and plant them in pots so that the bulbs can become plump. When the leaves wither, dig out the bulbs and store them well. In autumn, they can be planted again in pots to restore vigor, and it is not suitable to use them for water culture again.

Forcing Cultivation

After late July, treat the bulbs at a low temperature of 8°C for 70 to 75 days, then pot them in early October and cultivate them in a greenhouse, so that they can bloom at the end of the year. Because the forcing sensitivity of cultivated varieties varies greatly, varieties suitable for forcing should be selected when carrying out forcing cultivation.

Bulb Selection

The nutrients needed for hyacinths to bloom are mainly supplied by the nutrients stored in the scale leaves of the bulb. As long as you select bulbs with undamaged outer skins, fleshy scales that are not excessively shriveled, and that are relatively hard, heavy and plump, they can produce abundant and beautiful flowers.

Soil Requirements

The soil should be fertile, high in organic matter, with good crumb structure, and a pH of 6 to 7. A growing medium can be prepared in the ratio of 5 parts leaf mold : 3 parts garden soil : 1.5 parts coarse sand : 0.5 part bone meal. Before planting, chemical agents such as formalin can be used: at a soil temperature of 10 to 15°C, apply the agent to the soil surface and immediately cover with plastic film. After 3 days of warm weather, remove the film, let it air for 1 day, and then plant, keeping the soil moist.

Light

Hyacinths need only above 5000 Lx to maintain normal physiological activity. Too little light will lead to weak, spindly plants, overly long stems, small flower buds, early flower fading, and yellowing leaves. An incandescent lamp can be used at a distance of about 1 m for supplemental lighting. However, too much light can also cause scorching of leaves and petals or shorten the flowering period.

Temperature and Humidity Regulation

If the temperature is too high, even above 35°C, flower bud differentiation will be inhibited, growth will become deformed, and the rate of blind flowers will increase. If the temperature is too low, the flower buds will suffer cold damage.

Soil humidity should be kept between 60 and 70%. If too high, root respiration is inhibited and rot easily occurs; if too low, the aboveground parts wilt and may even die. Air humidity should be kept at around 80%, and can be increased by misting or sprinkling water on the ground, or reduced by measures such as ventilation.

Introducing Hyacinth Planting Methods and Precautions You Must Know for Cultivating Hyacinths

Hyacinths have a beautiful legend and symbolize a very good love story. There are many classifications, and of course also many colors, and different colors each have different flower languages. They also have many uses; at weddings they can be used as the bride's bouquet. What are the planting methods for hyacinths, and what aspects need attention?

Soil

For hyacinths, it is best to choose a well-drained, not-too-dry sandy loam soil. The soil should be fertile, high in organic matter, with good crumb structure, neutral to slightly alkaline, and a pH of 6-7. A growing medium can be prepared in the ratio of 5 parts leaf mold : 3 parts garden soil : 1.5 parts coarse sand : 0.5 part bone meal. Before planting, chemical agents such as formalin can be used: at a soil temperature of 10-15°C, apply the agent to the soil surface and immediately cover with plastic film. After 3 days of warm weather, remove the film, let it air for 1 day, and then plant, keeping the soil moist. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer. In field cultivation, avoid continuous cropping.

Light

Hyacinths need only above 5000 Lx to maintain normal physiological activity. Too little light will lead to weak, spindly plants, overly long stems, small flower buds, early flower fading, and yellowing leaves. An incandescent lamp can be used at a distance of about 1 m for supplemental lighting. However, too much light can also cause scorching of leaves and petals or shorten the flowering period.

Humidity

Soil humidity should be kept between 60-70%. If too high, root respiration is inhibited and rot easily occurs; if too low, the aboveground parts wilt and may even die. Air humidity should be kept at around 80%, and can be increased by misting or sprinkling water on the ground, or reduced by measures such as ventilation.

Temperature

If the temperature is too high, even above 35°C, flower bud differentiation will be inhibited, growth will become deformed, and the rate of blind flowers will increase. If the temperature is too low, the flower buds will suffer cold damage. Its bulbs need to be maintained under low-temperature conditions for a period of time; otherwise, they will not produce high-quality flowers and stems of sufficient length. The growth process of hyacinths includes a leaf formation stage, a flower formation stage, and an elongation stage. By advancing the flower formation stage while providing the most effective low-temperature period, the bulbs are forced to bloom. This is why hyacinths planted in the Mediterranean region can often bloom very early. By maintaining a relatively high temperature during the bulb planting stage, the leaf formation stage can be accelerated, and thus the flower formation stage is also advanced.

The above is what I have compiled for everyone regarding hyacinth planting. I hope it is helpful to you. Please continue to follow Duorou Huapu for more information.