How to Plant Peonies? Detailed Explanation of Planting Methods and Cultivation Techniques

China is the place of origin of the peony, and the peony is also deeply loved by people everywhere. In order to better develop the peony and bring its ornamental value into play, this article starts from the cultivation history of the peony, analyzes the morphology and ecological habits related to the peony, and through an account of the peony's propagation methods, cultivation management, and flowering-period regulation, discusses the cultivation techniques of the peony.

Cultivation History of the Peony

Since ancient times, the peony has been called the king of flowers, known as “national beauty and heavenly fragrance” and called the “flower of wealth and honor.” The peony has a long cultivation history in China, already more than 1,500 years. In the Tang Dynasty it was already a precious flower in the imperial palace, and a special peony garden was opened at Mount Li. By the Ming and Qing dynasties, the peonies of the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River, the peonies of Bozhou, the peonies of Caozhou, the peonies of Jiangnan, and the peonies of Lanzhou all shone brilliantly, truly pushing the peony to the status of “king of flowers.” Nowadays, countries such as China, the United States, Japan, and the Netherlands, through crossbreeding, have cultivated new commercialized potted peony varieties.

Biological Characteristics of the Peony

1. Morphological characteristics. The peony belongs to the Paeoniaceae family and is a deciduous small shrub. The stem is generally 1 m to 2 m tall, and the tallest can reach 3 m. The branches grow in clusters from the ground, with obvious nodes and leaf scars. It has a fleshy taproot system with no horizontal lateral roots. It has bipinnately compound leaves with three leaflets, dull on the surface, green, hairless, with a white bloom on the underside, nearly hairless. The flowers are solitary at the top of the branches, large, 10-30 cm in diameter. Currently cultivated varieties are mostly double-flowered, with rich flower colors including yellow, white, red, pink, purple, green, and so on. The flowering period is April to May. The fruit is a follicle, and the seeds are black. The fruit ripening period is from mid-August to early September.

2. Ecological habits. The peony is a cultivated species, and the original species of peony is produced in the area of northwestern China and the Qinling Mountains. It likes cold winters that help dormancy and mild summer climatic conditions that are favorable for flower bud differentiation. It is relatively cold-tolerant but not heat-tolerant. It can usually tolerate low temperatures of -20 degrees, but temperatures above 32 degrees have an adverse effect on the peony. It likes light, but does not like western sun exposure. Its roots are fleshy, and it likes dryness and dislikes dampness, fearing waterlogging. It is suitable for fertile, loose, well-drained soil, and the soil pH value is suitable when neutral or slightly acidic; it can also grow normally in alkaline calcareous soil, but saline-alkali soil is taboo. The plant grows slowly, and the new shoots wither every year, showing the phenomenon of “branch dieback,” hence the saying “the peony grows one chi and retreats eight cun.” Seedlings generally take 5-6 years.

Cultivation Techniques of the Peony

1. Propagation Methods

(1) Division propagation. Asexual propagation can keep the excellent traits of the mother plant basically unchanged, and the propagation of ornamental peonies mainly uses this method. The peony has no obvious main trunk and is a clustered shrub, very suitable for division, and it is also relatively simple and easy to do. Its methods and steps are as follows:

① Choose a suitable time for division. Peony division is generally done from late September to early October, and the ground temperature during this period is very suitable for the formation of new root systems in the peony. If divided and planted too early, because the outside temperature is still high, it is easy to cause winter buds to sprout and send out new branches, that is, “autumn growth,” which not only consumes nutrients but also reduces cold resistance and drought resistance, and is very unfavorable for growth and flowering the following spring. If divided and planted too late, the new roots are weak or no new roots form, and the next year the plant grows weakly, with few tillers, and short, thin branches, and it is very easy to die when drought occurs.

② Division method. The peony can be divided and propagated after growing for 3 years, but 4-5 years old is preferable. First dig the mother plant out of the ground and dry it in the sun for 1-2 days, so that the roots lose water and become soft, but do not dry them in the shade excessively. Split it open at the places where it separates easily. The lower part of the new division should have a good root system, and each plant should have 3-5 tiller buds. After division, plant in pots, and after 5-6 years it can be divided again. Before planting, the old branches on the upper part of the division seedling should be cut off 3-5 cm above the root crown. If the division seedling has no sprouting tiller buds or too few, thin and weak sprouting tiller buds, 2-3 latent buds should be left below the cut part. The main purpose of cutting off the old branches is to avoid the consumption of nutrients in the roots by the leaves and flowers of the old branches, promote tillering, and enhance the growth vigor of the division seedling.

③ Planting method for division seedlings. Quickly dip the division seedling in a mixed solution of isofenphos-methyl and Lvheng No. 1, and after drying it can be planted. At the same time, in order to stimulate the formation of new root systems, rooting agents such as indolebutyric acid and naphthaleneacetic acid at 50-200 mg/L can be added to the mixed solution, which can promote rooting and enhance growth vigor. When planting, use the “three burials, two treads, one lift” method as in forest tree production, that is, first place the seedling vertically into the hole, place its roots well, gently lift the seedling with one hand, and fill soil into the hole with the other hand. When the soil has filled half of the hole, gently lift the seedling upward with the hand, gently shake it left and right once, so that the fine soil closely contacts the roots, pound it firm with a wooden stick around the seedling, then fill the soil full and pound it firm, and finally fill the planting hole full. After planting, use loose soil to seal the planting hole into a mound, and the mound is generally 15-20 cm above the ground.

(2) Grafting propagation

The main considerations are several aspects such as grafting time, rootstock, scion, and grafting method.

① Grafting time. Peonies can be grafted from late September to early October, and White Dew (September 7-8) to Autumn Equinox (September 23-24) is preferable. In particular, the survival rate of grafting around White Dew is the highest. This may be the peony's response to specific temperature and humidity. Around White Dew, the air temperature is 20-25°C, and the ground temperature at 30 cm depth is 18-23°C, so the graft union heals quickly and produces callus tissue, hence the high survival rate.

② Selection of rootstock. The rootstock is usually peony root or herbaceous peony root. Using peony root as the rootstock, because it is relatively fine and hard, grafting is not convenient, and the propagated plant grows relatively slowly at first, but the base of the scion is relatively easy to root, and there are also relatively many tiller shoots, which is favorable for later division, and its lifespan is also relatively long. Using herbaceous peony root as the rootstock, because its lignification is relatively weak, operation is more convenient, and the survival rate is also relatively high. However, the scion's root part produces relatively few roots, there are not many tiller shoots, and the lifespan is also relatively short. The rootstock should be dried in the sun for 1-2 days, and grafting should be carried out after it loses water and becomes soft, so that the cut is not easy to split, making operation convenient.

③ Scion. It is best to use branches grown from soil buds as the scion. Their tissue is full, their vitality is vigorous, and new roots and new branches are easily produced at the base, so the survival rate after grafting is high. If there are very few tiller branches, only one-year-old branches from the upper part of the crown can be used as the scion. The scion length is generally 5-10 cm, the thickness is more than 0.5 cm, and it carries 2-3 plump and full buds.

④ Grafting. After split grafting or cut grafting, bind with hemp rather than plastic film strips, coat with mud slurry, and plant in a deep and wide pot. The potting soil should be moist. After planting, generally do not water, and cover with soil to retain moisture.

(2) Seed propagation

It is often used when cultivating new varieties of ornamental peonies, but not for medicinal peonies. When the peony fruit ripens, it naturally splits open and releases black seeds, so the fruit must be collected before the follicle is about to split. Place the collected fruit in a sieve to dry in the sun, and after collecting the seeds in September, sow immediately. Be careful to keep the soil moist. After the seeds overwinter in the soil, due to the stimulation of low temperature, the epicotyl elongates the following spring, and the seedlings emerge from the soil.

Management Methods for Peonies

1. Watering. When potting, it is best to choose peonies grafted onto herbaceous peony roots. Because peonies are averse to waterlogging, more tiles that help drainage should be placed at the bottom of the pot. After planting, as long as the soil is moist, there is generally no need to water thoroughly immediately, and certainly do not water heavily. Water appropriately during the growing season. In arid areas of the north, generally water before flowering, after flowering, and before freezing.

2. Fertilizing. Peonies like fertilizer. Fertilization in a year can be divided into three times, divided into nutritional fertilizer, supplementary fertilizer, and wintering fertilizer. Nutritional fertilizer should be applied 15-20 days before flowering, generally at the end of March. Supplementary fertilizer is generally applied within 15 days after flowering. Wintering fertilizer is applied in late October, and the amount can be appropriately increased. Fertilization is generally based on decomposed organic fertilizer. Fertilization methods can be combined with loosening the soil, broadcasting, and hole application. For potted plants, liquid fertilizer can be applied together with watering.

3. Pruning. In the year of planting, it can be allowed to grow freely. After sprouting each spring thereafter, completely remove the tiller buds at the base of the plant and the adventitious buds sent out from the base of the trunk, concentrating nutrients, so that the flowers in the second year are large and brightly colored. After flowering, cut off the faded flowers and do not let them form seeds. In autumn and winter, dried branches and leaves as well as thin, weak, and flowerless branches should all be cut off. When potted, it can also be trimmed into different shapes according to one's preferences and needs.

4. Spraying. There are not many insect pests on peonies. The main diseases are black spot and violet root rot. For black spot, Bordeaux mixture of equal proportions can be sprayed after flowering and in summer. If a small number of diseased leaves appear, they should be removed immediately and burned. For violet root rot, because its harmfulness lies in the peony's roots, diseased roots should be pulled out and disinfected with 20% lime water. For prevention and control, spray lime-sulfur mixture before sprouting in early spring, and use a mixed solution of insecticides and fungicides in summer, once every 2 weeks depending on the condition. At the same time, combine with fertilization, and chemical fertilizers and growth regulators can be appropriately added.

Flowering-Period Regulation of Peonies

The applications of the peony are mainly medicinal use, landscape application, and cut flowers and bonsai, etc. The development of the peony's ornamental value

has been present from ancient times to the present. However, the natural flowering period of a single peony is about 10-15 days, and it shortens as the temperature rises. At 3-8°C, it can be maintained for more than a month. Therefore, how to regulate the flowering period is also a key point in peony cultivation.

1. Selection of plants for forcing flowers. To add to festivals or celebration activities, peonies are usually forced to bloom. First, the plants must be selected. First, choose forcing varieties. For retarding cultivation, it is advisable to choose late-flowering or mid-to-late-flowering varieties with active dormant flower buds and semi-double flowers. Such as Zhihong, Zi Chonglou, Zi Xiujiu, etc. For forcing cultivation, it is advisable to choose early-flowering varieties that bloom late and have a high flowering rate. Second, the quality of forcing seedlings. Generally speaking, forcing plants should be strong seedlings with vigorous growth, compact plant shape, thick branches, plump buds, well-developed root systems, no pests, and flower buds that have already differentiated.

2. Measures for flowering-period regulation. When forcing flowers, according to different varieties, the peony can be heated about 50 days in advance, with the temperature controlled at normal temperature 10-25°C, and an average daily temperature of about 15°C. In the early stage, pay attention to keeping the plant moist; after budding, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission; after the buds are formed, control the temperature according to the flowering-period requirements. Usually, foliar fertilization should be carried out to ensure sufficient water supply. In this way, flowers can be seen at any time in winter and spring. In order to prolong the viewing time, field planting can temporarily set up a shed to block wind and light; potted plants can be moved to a place where sunlight cannot directly shine; the temperature should be kept at 5-10°C; and there should also be a ventilated and light-transmitting environment. Moreover, water should be given in a timely manner according to the degree of moisture in the potting soil, but note that water should not be splashed on the flowers; in this way the flowering period is the longest.

Pest and Disease Control of Peonies

What harms the normal growth of peonies is first disease and second insect pests. They make the peony's growth weaker, flower color decline, peony bark yield decrease, and quality poor, etc. For this reason, doing a good job in timely pest and disease control is very important for ensuring the normal growth of peonies.

1. Disease Control of Peonies

① Leaf spot. Leaf spot is also called "black spot." This disease is caused by a fungus of the genus Pestalotia, and the fungus mainly infects leaves, stems, and flowers. It generally occurs 15 days after flowering, and becomes increasingly serious as humidity rises in mid-July. In the initial stage, the disease appears on the underside of the leaves as brown spots the size of grains of rice, with slightly darker edges, forming irregular concentric ring-shaped blighted spots. In July the spots enlarge and merge with each other, and the leaves wither and curl. The affected petioles produce a dark green fuzzy layer, and the stems produce raised diseased spots. Small pink spots appear on the flower stalks and corolla. The control method for leaf spot should combine cleaning the garden with chemical control. Around "Start of Winter," clean the dry leaves in the peony field thoroughly to reduce the source of pathogens. In May, spray Bordeaux mixture at 1:1:160, once every 10-15 days, until the end of July. In the early stage of the disease, spray zineb at 500-800 times, once every 7-10 days.

② Violet root rot. Violet root rot is a fungal disease caused by transmission through soil and roots. The affected area has purple or white cotton-like mycelium, commonly known as "black lump head." In mild cases, no new roots grow, the branches wither and become thin, and the leaves turn yellow; in severe cases, the entire root crown and roots rot, and the plant dies. It mostly occurs in hot and rainy seasons. The most effective way to prevent and control this disease is to choose well-drained, high and dry plots for planting; cultivate in time during the rainy season to reduce humidity; crop rotation and breeding disease-resistant varieties can all reduce the harm. Before planting, apply 500 times pentachloronitrobenzene solution to the roots, and soaking the roots in 5% amobam 1000 times solution also has good results.

Common ones also include sclerotinia disease, anthracnose, rust disease, etc. In old peony planting areas, there is also harm from nematode disease, and appropriate pesticides should be selected for control.

2. Insect Pest Control of Peonies

Underground pests include mole crickets, white grubs, and cutworms, which mainly harm the root bark and tender buds. To control mole crickets, use poison bait and light traps at night. To control white grubs and cutworms, fermented organic fertilizer can be mixed with phoxim and turned into the ground at a depth of 20 cm, with good results.

Aboveground pests include scale insects, longhorn beetles, etc., which mainly harm the stems and cause the death of the whole plant. To control scale insects, spray dichlorvos at 1000-1500 times during the larval hatching period. Spraying fluoroacetamide is even more effective. During the dormant period or before sprouting in early spring, brushing the branches and trunk with lime-sulfur mixture at 3 degrees Baume also has a good effect. To control longhorn beetles, sulfur powder or Stemona can be used to plug the holes, or cotton dipped in 50% dichlorvos 20 times solution can be used to plug the holes. For seedlings, sealed fumigation with aluminum phosphide is also a good method.

Peony Planting Techniques, How to Cultivate Peonies?

✿ Related Reading Recommendations
✿ Guava Pictures 
✿ Dendrobium Pictures 
✿ Red Spider Lily Pictures 
✿ Begonia Flower Language (◕‿◕✿) For flowers and bonsai, plant cultivation, please follow the Meilele Flowers and Bonsai section!
.....
      The flower has gorgeous colors, jade-like laughter and pearl-like fragrance, elegant and unrestrained, magnificent and splendid, and has long had the reputation of “king of flowers.” Among cultivated types, it can be divided into hundreds of varieties mainly according to flower color. Do you know it? Today the editor will briefly introduce peony planting techniques for everyone.


.....

      What are peony planting techniques? Peony planting uses seeds to reproduce offspring or select and breed new varieties, and is a sexual propagation method. Before sowing, the soil must be carefully prepared and disinfected. The soil is required to be loose in texture, fertile, and neutral to slightly alkaline. Cut off the broken and diseased roots of the peony seedlings to be planted, soak them in insecticide and fungicide, and place them into a prepared pot or pit.
.....

.....
       The peony root system should be spread out, and then a small bed 70-80 cm wide should be built. Hole sowing and drill sowing are both acceptable. Sowing should not be too deep, with 3-4 cm as the limit. Fill the soil to more than half of the pot or pit, gently lift and shake the seedling, tread firm and seal the soil, with the depth such that the root crown is slightly lower than the pot surface or ground level, and then water thoroughly.
.....

.....

      Peony planting techniques should also pay attention to later-stage care.
      Watering:After planting, water the peony thoroughly once. Peonies are averse to waterlogging, so water as appropriate during the growing season. In arid areas of the north, generally water before flowering, after flowering, and before freezing. For potted plants, to facilitate management, after flowering the faded flowers can be cut off and the whole pot buried in the ground.
      Weeding:During the growing season, cultivate in time, pull out weeds, and pay attention to the occurrence of diseases and insects. In autumn and winter, carry out plowing of the field blocks of peonies more than two years old.
.....

.....
      Fertilizing:One year after planting, peonies can be fertilized in autumn, mainly with decomposed organic fertilizer. It can be combined with loosening the soil, broadcasting, and hole application. In spring and summer, chemical fertilizers are mostly used, combined with watering to apply pre-flowering fertilizer and post-flowering fertilizer. For potted plants, liquid fertilizer can be applied together with watering.
      Spraying:Spray lime-sulfur mixture before sprouting in early spring, and use a mixed solution of insecticides and fungicides in summer, once every 2 weeks depending on the condition. Combined with fertilization, chemical fertilizers and growth regulators, etc., can also be appropriately added.
.....

.....

      In peony planting techniques, if you want your peonies to bloom brightly every year, then you should pay attention to the following steps.
      Pruning:In the year of planting, mostly cut back to the ground. After sprouting in spring, keep about 5 branches and remove the rest, concentrating nutrients, so that the flowers in the second year are large and brightly colored. In autumn and winter, combined with clearing the garden, cut off dried flower stalks, thin and weak branches, and flowerless branches. When potted, trim into the shape you like according to need.
.....

.....
      Repotting:After potted peonies have grown for three or four years, they need to be moved in autumn into a larger pot with new fertile soil or divided and planted separately.
      Forcing flowers:In the early stage, pay attention to keeping the plant moist; after budding, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission; after the buds are formed, control the temperature according to the flowering-period requirements. Usually, foliar fertilization should be carried out to ensure sufficient water supply. In this way, flowers can be seen at any time in winter and spring.
.....

.....

      The peony is excellent in color, posture, fragrance, and charm, with large flowers and bright colors, graceful flower posture, and charm surpassing all other flowers. Peony cultivation and research are becoming more and more prosperous, and the varieties are becoming richer and richer, with more than five hundred varieties produced in China. "I fear playing the Qingping tune, Consort Yang's inkstone drips dry," which shows that at this time black peony varieties whose color was no different from the dark night had already appeared.
.....

      The peony is acclaimed as the king of flowers, and there are rich cultural and painting works about it. It is also a specialty flower native to China, with large flowers, beautiful shape, brilliant color, and strong fragrance, praised by people of all dynasties. Today the editor's introduction to rose planting techniques ends here. Thank you all for your appreciation.

How to Plant Peonies: Planting Methods for Peonies

The peony ranks second among China's top ten famous flowers and has the reputation of being the king of flowers. Luoyang is one of the birthplaces of Chinese peonies and a city famous for peonies. Peonies' gorgeous colors and beautiful flower shapes are deeply loved by people. So how do you plant peonies? Next, Xiao Qi will share the planting methods for peonies.

Peony Pictures

I. How to Plant Peonies

The peony is a deep-rooted deciduous shrub flower. It likes sunlight, is cold-tolerant, loves a cool environment and is averse to high temperature and stuffiness, and is suitable for growing in loose, fertile, well-drained sandy soil. Therefore, the potting soil for generally cultivating peonies should be a mixed soil of sandy soil and cake fertilizer, or a culture soil thoroughly mixed with fully decomposed barnyard manure, garden soil, and coarse sand in a 1:1:1 ratio.

Peony Pictures

II. Planting Methods for Peonies

1. Planting: For the soil for planting peonies, we should choose loose, fertile loam with neutral to slightly alkaline properties. We should also cut off the broken and diseased roots of the peony seedlings to be planted, then disinfect them, and place them into a prepared pot or pit. Let its root system spread out, and when the soil is more than half filled, gently shake the seedling and then tread firm and seal the soil.

2. Watering: After planting, the peony should be watered thoroughly for the first time, and peonies are averse to waterlogging, so during the growing season they also need to be watered as appropriate.

3. Fertilizing: One year after planting, peonies can be fertilized in autumn, mainly with decomposed organic fertilizer. Then combine with loosening the soil, and so on. In spring and summer, chemical fertilizers are mostly used, and combined with watering, pre-flowering fertilizer and post-flowering fertilizer are applied. If potted, liquid fertilizer can also be applied together with watering.

4. Pruning: In the year of planting peonies, after sprouting in spring, about 5 branches should be kept, and then the others should be removed. In this way, nutrients can be concentrated, so that the flowers in the second year can be even more brightly colored. In autumn and winter, we can also combine with clearing the garden to cut off thin, weak, and flowerless branches and leaves. When potted, it can also be cut into different shapes according to one's preferences.

5. Repotting: After the potted peony has grown for three or four years, we need to add new fertile soil for it in autumn as well as move it to a larger pot or divide and replant it.

Peony Pictures

The above is an introduction to how to plant peonies and the planting methods for peonies. Friends who like peonies may as well learn from it and plant some at home themselves.