Detailed Guide to Dragon Juniper Planting Methods and Cultivation Management Techniques
Dragon juniper belongs to the Cupressaceae family, Juniperus genus. Aliases: coiled dragon juniper, screw juniper. It originated in southern Northeast China, North China, as well as Japan, Korea and other places. It is cultivated in southern North China and cities throughout East China. In the same genus, Jinlong juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka Aurea') has all scale leaves, with yellow leaves at the branch tips; prostrate dragon juniper has no upright trunk, with the plant spreading flat on the ground, mostly with needle leaves.
Biological Habits
Dragon juniper belongs to the Cupressaceae family and is a cultivated variety of Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis). It is an evergreen tree, reaching up to 8 m in height, with a straight trunk and a narrow cylindrical tree shape. Its branchlets twist and extend upward, which is how it got its name. The branchlets are dense, with densely growing leaves that are all scale leaves. Young leaves are pale yellow-green, turning emerald green when mature. The cones are blue-green with a slightly powdery white surface.
Dragon juniper prefers deep, fertile soil and requires good drainage. It dislikes damp, waterlogged conditions, which will otherwise cause yellowing of leaves and poor growth. It grows slowly when young, accelerates after 3-4 years, and once the trunk reaches 3 m in height, its vigor gradually declines.
Dragon juniper prefers sun. It grows well in any place with good drainage and deep soil. It has strong drought tolerance. In summer and autumn, as long as the root zone or seedbed is mulched, few seedlings die even without watering for drought resistance. However, to promote growth, frequent fertilization and watering can increase its annual growth by up to 50 cm. The main branches of dragon juniper have strong extending ability, but in the Jiangnan region they do not spread outward but instead spiral upward around the trunk. The side branches are closely arranged, making the whole tree resemble two dragons embracing a pillar. Therefore, the lower branches must be properly preserved and must not be casually pruned or damaged, otherwise it will form a "bare-legged" sapling, greatly ruining its appearance. So it is generally not pruned and is allowed to grow naturally.
Besides naturally growing into a conical shape, dragon juniper can also be twisted and trained into animal shapes such as dragons, horses, lions and elephants. Some are pruned into spherical, drum-shaped or hemispherical forms, planted singly, in rows or in groups in gardens. Some are planted as hedges, and after shaping and pruning into flat, straight rounded ridges, they can display a low, full, delicate and refined appearance. The side branches of dragon juniper twist and spiral around the trunk as they grow, giving it a unique style and very high ornamental value. It is widely cultivated throughout China.
Cultivation Management
Dragon juniper is customarily propagated asexually. Methods include approach grafting, branch grafting, cuttings and layering, each with its own advantages. They are described separately below:
1. Approach grafting: Approach grafting has a high survival rate and produces seedlings quickly. Its drawbacks are limited propagation quantity and relatively troublesome procedures and management. Because the mother tree is tall, operation is even more inconvenient. However, this method can still be used for small-scale propagation. Rootstocks for approach grafting can be Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Platycladus orientalis or Chamaecyparis pisifera. It is carried out in March-April. By August-September, the union has fully healed, and the scion can be cut from the mother plant and transplanted. For specific operations, please refer to the article "Approach Grafting".
2. Early spring branch grafting: In early spring in February, use 2-year-old Platycladus orientalis as the rootstock. Select healthy, pest-free 1-2 year old branches of dragon juniper as scions, 5-10 cm long. Remove the needles from the lower 2-3 cm. Make a straight cut on one side, 2-3 cm long, and a slanted cut on the opposite side, 2-4 cm long. The rootstock can be headed back at the grafting point, then make a straight cut from one side of the cross-section, 2-3 cm long. Note that both cuts must include a little xylem. Then insert the prepared scion into the rootstock, align the cambium layers on one side, and tie the joint tightly with plastic film. To prevent the scion from losing water and dying before it takes, a small plastic bag can be placed over the scion. After about 2 months, when the terminal bud of the scion sprouts, it proves the wound has healed well. The bag can then be removed and normal management resumed. In addition, during the growing season, bark-tearing inlay grafting can be used. This grafting method also has a very high survival rate.
Propagation Methods
Dragon juniper is a precious garden tree. Its crown is cylindrical, like a coiled dragon, and shaped like a pagoda. It is suitable for planting around high-rise plazas, or for use as a potted display. It has the ability to absorb various harmful gases and has a dust-removal effect. Although dragon juniper can produce seeds, they do not germinate easily. Propagation methods are mostly cuttings and grafting. For graft propagation of dragon juniper, spring is suitable from mid-February to early March, and autumn from late September to early October is also possible. Using 2-year-old Platycladus orientalis as rootstock, the grafting methods are:
1. Field grafting: The above-ground part of the rootstock should be retained. Dig away the soil around the root collar by 3-5 cm, and cut the rootstock to a depth of about one-half. Select the middle section of a 2-year-old branch as the scion, about 8 cm long. Remove one-third of the needles at the base. Cut one side of the cut surface to 1.5-2 cm long, and the other side to about 0.6 cm. Insert the scion into the rootstock cut, align the cambium layers of both, tie tightly with plastic film, and mound soil 3-5 cm high. Cover with grass to prevent drought, and also set up a shed with a mat for temporary shade.
2. Dig-up grafting: After digging up the rootstock, properly trim the roots and branches. The dig-up grafting method is the same as field grafting, but after grafting it must be planted promptly, with soil mounded to 3 cm below the top. After grafting, dragon juniper heals and takes slowly. Spring grafting does not begin to heal until May, so the branches and leaves of the rootstock should be gradually pruned away. After grafting, in addition to proper shading, preventing dry wind, and maintaining a certain humidity, rain must be kept out within half a month after grafting. The general survival rate can reach over 75%.
Pest and Disease Control
Dragon juniper has relatively few diseases. Apart from the above-mentioned pear rust, the common one is violet root rot, which easily occurs when the cutting seedbed medium is unclean or reused. It can be controlled according to the methods described above. The common pest is the bagworm moth. In early June, before the larvae spread, spray 1000 times diluted 98% trichlorfon crystal to control it.
Cultivation and Management Techniques for Dragon Juniper Seedlings
Dragon juniperis a precious garden tree. Its crown is cylindrical, like a coiled dragon, and shaped like a pagoda. It is suitable for planting around high-rise plazas, or for use as a potted display. It has the ability to absorb various harmful gases and has a dust-removal effect, with very good environmental protection and greening value. Dragon juniper is customarily propagated asexually. Methods include approach grafting, branch grafting, cuttings and layering, each with its own advantages. A brief introduction to each follows:
I. Approach Grafting Method:
1. Approach grafting has a high survival rate and produces seedlings quickly. Its drawbacks are limited propagation quantity and relatively troublesome procedures and management. Because the mother tree is tall, operation is even more inconvenient. However, this method can still be used for small-scale propagation.
2. Rootstocks for approach grafting can be Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Platycladus orientalis or Chamaecyparis pisifera. It is carried out in March-April. By August-September, the union has fully healed, and the scion can be cut from the mother plant and transplanted. For specific operations, please refer to the approach grafting chapter in relevant nursery stock and flower books.
II. Branch Grafting Method:
1. Timing: In early spring in February, use 2-year-old Platycladus orientalis as the rootstock. Select healthy, pest-free 1-2 year old branches of dragon juniper as scions, 5-10 cm long. Remove the needles from the lower 2-3 cm. Make a straight cut on one side, 2-3 cm long, and a slanted cut on the opposite side, 2-4 cm long.
2. Grafting: The rootstock can be headed back at the grafting point, then make a straight cut from one side of the cross-section, 2-3 cm long. Note that both cuts must include a little xylem. Then insert the prepared scion into the rootstock, align the cambium layers on one side, and tie the joint tightly with plastic film.
3. Management: To prevent the scion from losing water and dying before it takes, a small plastic bag can be placed over the scion. After about 2 months, when the terminal bud of the scion sprouts, it proves the wound has healed well. The bag can then be removed and normal management resumed. In addition, during the growing season, bark-tearing inlay grafting can be used. This grafting method also has a very high survival rate.
III. Grafting:Although dragon juniper can produce seeds, they do not germinate easily. Propagation methods are mostly cuttings and grafting. For graft propagation of dragon juniper, spring is suitable from mid-February to early March, and autumn from late September to early October is also possible. Using 2-year-old Platycladus orientalis as rootstock, the grafting methods are:
1. Field grafting: The above-ground part of the rootstock should be retained. Dig away the soil around the root collar by 3-5 cm, and cut the rootstock to a depth of about one-half. Select the middle section of a 2-year-old branch as the scion, about 8 cm long. Remove one-third of the needles at the base. Cut one side of the cut surface to 1.5-2 cm long, and the other side to about 0.6 cm. Insert the scion into the rootstock cut, align the cambium layers of both, tie tightly with plastic film, and mound soil 3-5 cm high. Cover with grass to prevent drought, and also set up a shed with a mat for temporary shade.
2. Dig-up grafting: After digging up the rootstock, properly trim the roots and branches. The dig-up grafting method is the same as field grafting, but after grafting it must be planted promptly, with soil mounded to 3 cm below the top. After grafting, dragon juniper heals and takes slowly. Spring grafting does not begin to heal until May, so the branches and leaves of the rootstock should be gradually pruned away. After grafting, in addition to proper shading, preventing dry wind, and maintaining a certain humidity, rain must be kept out within half a month after grafting. The general survival rate can reach over 75%.
IV. Pest and Disease Control:Dragon juniper has relatively few diseases. Apart from the above-mentioned pear rust, the common one is violet root rot, which easily occurs when the cutting seedbed medium is unclean or reused. It can be controlled according to the methods described above. The common pest is the bagworm moth. In early June, before the larvae spread, spray 1000 times diluted 98% trichlorfon crystal to control it.
Dragon Juniper Cultivation Techniques and Management Techniques
Dragon juniper scientific name:Sabinachinensiscv.kaizuka
Family and genus:Cupressaceae, Juniperus genus
Aliases:Coiled dragon juniper, screw juniper
It originated in southern Northeast China, North China, as well as Japan, Korea and other places. It is cultivated in southern North China and cities throughout East China. In the same genus, Jinlong juniper cv. Kaizuka Aurea has all scale leaves, with yellow leaves at the branch tips. Prostrate dragon juniper cv. Procumbens has no upright trunk, with the plant spreading flat on the ground, mostly with needle leaves.
Habits:Dragon juniper belongs to the Cupressaceae family and is a cultivated variety of Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis). It is an evergreen tree, reaching up to 8 m in height, with a straight trunk and a narrow cylindrical tree shape. Its branchlets twist and extend upward, which is how it got its name. The branchlets are dense, with densely growing leaves that are all scale leaves. Young leaves are pale yellow-green, turning emerald green when mature. The cones are blue-green with a slightly powdery white surface.
Dragon juniper prefers deep, fertile soil and requires good drainage. It dislikes damp, waterlogged conditions, which will otherwise cause yellowing of leaves and poor growth. It grows slowly when young, accelerates after 3-4 years, and once the trunk reaches 3 m in height, its vigor gradually declines.
Dragon juniper prefers sun. It grows well in any place with good drainage and deep soil. It has strong drought tolerance. In summer and autumn, as long as the root zone or seedbed is mulched, few seedlings die even without watering for drought resistance. However, to promote growth, frequent fertilization and watering can increase its annual growth by up to 50 cm. The main branches of dragon juniper have strong extending ability, but in the Jiangnan region they do not spread outward but instead spiral upward around the trunk. The side branches are closely arranged, making the whole tree resemble two dragons embracing a pillar. Therefore, the lower branches must be properly preserved and must not be casually pruned or damaged, otherwise it will form a "bare-legged" sapling, greatly ruining its appearance. So it is generally not pruned and is allowed to grow naturally.
Besides naturally growing into a conical shape, dragon juniper can also be twisted and trained into animal shapes such as dragons, horses, lions and elephants. Some are pruned into spherical, drum-shaped or hemispherical forms, planted singly, in rows or in groups in gardens. Some are planted as hedges, and after shaping and pruning into flat, straight rounded ridges, they can display a low, full, delicate and refined appearance. The side branches of dragon juniper twist and spiral around the trunk as they grow, giving it a unique style and very high ornamental value. It is widely cultivated throughout China.
Pests and Diseases:Dragon juniper has relatively few diseases. Apart from the above-mentioned pear rust, the common one is violet root rot, which easily occurs when the cutting seedbed medium is unclean or reused. It can be controlled according to the methods described above. The common pest is the bagworm moth. In early June, before the larvae spread, spray 1000 times diluted 98% trichlorfon crystal to control it.
Cultivation Management:
Dragon juniper is customarily propagated asexually. Methods include approach grafting, branch grafting, cuttings and layering, each with its own advantages. They are described separately below:
1. Approach grafting has a high survival rate and produces seedlings quickly. Its drawbacks are limited propagation quantity and relatively troublesome procedures and management. Because the mother tree is tall, operation is even more inconvenient. However, this method can still be used for small-scale propagation.
Rootstocks for approach grafting can be Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Platycladus orientalis or Chamaecyparis pisifera. It is carried out in March-April. By August-September, the union has fully healed, and the scion can be cut from the mother plant and transplanted. For specific operations, please refer to the approach grafting chapter in relevant nursery stock and flower books.
2. Early spring branch grafting: In early spring in February, use 2-year-old Platycladus orientalis as the rootstock. Select healthy, pest-free 1-2 year old branches of dragon juniper as scions, 5-10 cm long. Remove the needles from the lower 2-3 cm. Make a straight cut on one side, 2-3 cm long, and a slanted cut on the opposite side, 2-4 cm long. The rootstock can be headed back at the grafting point, then make a straight cut from one side of the cross-section, 2-3 cm long. Note that both cuts must include a little xylem. Then insert the prepared scion into the rootstock, align the cambium layers on one side, and tie the joint tightly with plastic film. To prevent the scion from losing water and dying before it takes, a small plastic bag can be placed over the scion. After about 2 months, when the terminal bud of the scion sprouts, it proves the wound has healed well. The bag can then be removed and normal management resumed. In addition, during the growing season, bark-tearing inlay grafting can be used. This grafting method also has a very high survival rate.
Propagation Methods:Dragon juniper is a precious garden tree. Its crown is cylindrical, like a coiled dragon, and shaped like a pagoda. It is suitable for planting around high-rise plazas, or for use as a potted display. It has the ability to absorb various harmful gases and has a dust-removal effect.
Although dragon juniper can produce seeds, they do not germinate easily. Propagation methods are mostly cuttings and grafting.
For graft propagation of dragon juniper, spring is suitable from mid-February to early March, and autumn from late September to early October is also possible. Using 2-year-old Platycladus orientalis as rootstock, the grafting methods are:
(1) Field grafting:The above-ground part of the rootstock should be retained. Dig away the soil around the root collar by 3-5 cm, and cut the rootstock to a depth of about one-half. Select the middle section of a 2-year-old branch as the scion, about 8 cm long. Remove one-third of the needles at the base. Cut one side of the cut surface to 1.5-2 cm long, and the other side to about 0.6 cm. Insert the scion into the rootstock cut, align the cambium layers of both, tie tightly with plastic film, and mound soil 3-5 cm high. Cover with grass to prevent drought, and also set up a shed with a mat for temporary shade.
(2) Dig-up grafting:After digging up the rootstock, properly trim the roots and branches. The dig-up grafting method is the same as field grafting, but after grafting it must be planted promptly, with soil mounded to 3 cm below the top. After grafting, dragon juniper heals and takes slowly. Spring grafting does not begin to heal until May, so the branches and leaves of the rootstock should be gradually pruned away. After grafting, in addition to proper shading, preventing dry wind, and maintaining a certain humidity, rain must be kept out within half a month after grafting. The general survival rate can reach over 75%.