Detailed Guide to Rose Planting Methods and Cultivation Techniques
Roses belong to the order Rosales, family Rosaceae, a deciduous shrub with many prickles on the branches, odd-pinnate compound leaves with 5-9 leaflets, elliptical, densely covered with white down on the underside and marginal prickles. Petals are obovate, double to semi-double, flowers come in purplish-red and white, fruiting period August-September, fruit flattened globose.
Soil preparation
Roses are perennial woody plants with a long production cycle; cutting-propagated plants can be harvested for 3-4 years after a single planting, and grafted plants for 5—6 years. To obtain high-quality, high-yield and high-benefit cut flowers, the soil for planting roses must have good physical and chemical properties during the cultivation period. It is best to choose a loamy soil with a low water table, loose and well-aerated, and the soil should be rich in organic matter, preferably reaching 10% or more. The soil pH should be around 6.5. Soil improvement should be carried out in conjunction with preparing the planting beds, through deep ploughing and applying large amounts of organic fertilizer, so that the soil's permeability and water-and-fertilizer retention are improved and maintained over the long term, promoting long-term healthy root growth of the roses. Organic fertilizers for soil improvement can include cow manure, pig manure, sheep manure, chicken manure, bone meal, leaf mold and compost.
The planting bed should have a bed surface width of 0.9 m, a walkway bottom width of 0.5 m and a bed height of 0.5 m, and the bed surface should be level. After the planting bed is prepared, the soil pH and EC values need to be checked again and adjusted with fertilizers, acids or alkalis, so that the pH is adjusted to around 6.5 and the EC value to 0.8~1.2 mS/cm; if the EC value is less than 0.8, adjust it with fertilizer, and if the EC value is greater than 1.2, it can be leached with water. The drip irrigation system should be installed in advance.
Cultivation methods and planting
Rose production mostly uses the bending-shoot cultivation method, with a single-bed, double-row layout, a plant spacing of 12 cm and a row spacing of 50 cm, planting 5000—6000 plants per mu. In greenhouse cultivation, planting can be done all year round; when planting, use a line to ensure the planting rows are straight, which facilitates management. The planting depth should be slightly deeper than the cutting depth, but the soil must not cover the main bud of the seedling. Modern factory-produced seedlings have a short establishment period and take root quickly.
After planting, water thoroughly in time to settle the roots; when planting in hot weather, pay attention to shading and cooling and spray water on the leaves. Within one week after planting, ensure the root-zone soil and surface soil are fully moist, spray the leaves during the day, and provide appropriate shade; after 7 days, gradually reduce leaf spraying, but keep the surface soil moist, and spray carbendazim or chlorothalonil and other fungicides for one round of disease control; after 15 days, gradually reduce soil watering, and thereafter water as needed according to whether the soil is dry or wet, keeping the soil moist, and begin using the drip irrigation system; after 30 days, enter normal management.
Cultivation environment control
The cultivation environment for roses mainly includes such environmental factors as water, fertilization, temperature, humidity and light.
1. Water management
Choose unpolluted river water, spring water or well water for irrigation. The timing, frequency and amount of watering for roses are affected by the season, weather, soil and plant growth conditions, and growers mainly determine them based on production experience or by continuously observing and testing soil moisture content, plant growth conditions, etc. with instruments. A soil tensiometer for rapid determination of soil moisture can be used; monitor soil moisture with the tensiometer and use it as a reference basis for drip irrigation. On sunny days, water twice a day (keeping soil moisture tension PF at around 1.8), choosing watering times of 10:00 and 14:00; do not water in the morning or evening, to avoid lowering soil temperature because of low water temperature; from April to June, temperatures are high and dry, the cultivation soil is also relatively dry, and rose plants grow faster and consume more water. Mainly by increasing the number of waterings, increase soil moisture; keep soil moisture tension PF at 1.6~1.8, and choose watering times from 10:00~16:00 on sunny days; greenhouses without cooling facilities need to add misting to cool down, choosing 14:00 on sunny days for misting; from July to September, temperatures are high, there is more rain and humidity is high, the cultivation soil is relatively moist, but rose plants also grow very fast and need to consume large amounts of water. By increasing the amount of water per watering, meet the roses' large water needs for growth, keeping soil moisture tension PF at 2.2; on cloudy days, to reduce air humidity and lessen the occurrence of pests and diseases, water only once at 10:00. On consecutive rainy days, stop watering, and wait until the rain stops and the weather clears before watering in time; this helps regulate and control the air humidity in the greenhouse; in autumn the weather is cool, which is more suitable for the growth of cut roses, so keep watering 1~2 times a day and keep soil moisture tension PF at around 1.8.
2. Fertilization management
During the vegetative growth period, roses require the major elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 3:1:2, and during the flowering period 3:1:3; secondary elements and trace elements can be applied regularly every month. Secondary elements include calcium, magnesium and sulfur; river water and well water contain relatively high calcium and magnesium, so they may not be added or only a small amount added during fertilization. Among trace elements, zinc and boron are relatively deficient, so attention should be paid to adding them in production. Iron is not deficient in the soil, but iron uptake is related to soil pH; at pH 5.5~6.5, a small amount can be added; when pH is greater than 7, iron in the soil is very difficult for plants to absorb. During production, soil nutrients should be tested regularly, and the test results used to judge whether the various nutrient elements in the soil can satisfy the normal growth and development of roses. When the various nutrient elements in the soil reach their optimum values, better cut flower yield and quality can be obtained. Refer to the table below for the optimum values; if a nutrient element in the soil is insufficient or relatively low, it can be gradually increased by 10% of the original fertilizer amount each time until reaching the optimum amount; if a nutrient element in the soil is too high, reduce the fertilizer amount or leach with water. Roses have well-developed root systems, fast growth and high flower yields, so their demand for nutrients in the soil is quite large, and their nutrient requirements are diverse; only by reasonably combining different types of nutrients can high-quality, high-yield flowers be produced with bumper harvests year after year.
① Different types of nutrients and their different effects on roses
Nitrogen fertilizer is an important nutrient required by roses and plays an important role in the vegetative growth of roses and flower yield. Only when nitrogen fertilizer is supplied sufficiently can the plants have luxuriant branches and leaves and grow normally. If nitrogen fertilizer is insufficient, rose branches become thin and weak, leaves turn yellow, and new shoots grow slowly. However, if there is too much nitrogen fertilizer in the soil, it easily causes excessive vegetative growth of branches, loose tissue, fewer flowers and even deformed flowers.
Phosphorus fertilizer can promote rose root growth, making the root system well developed, the leaves thick and the flower colors vivid. If the soil lacks phosphorus fertilizer, the branches become weak and the flowers droop limply, so when applying base fertilizer each autumn, an appropriate amount of phosphorus fertilizer should be mixed in.
Potassium fertilizer can promote normal growth of new shoots and young leaves of roses, increase the number of flowers, make flower buds plump, and give the flowers a high content of rose oil components.
In addition to the three major nutrient elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are required in large amounts, roses also need certain trace elements, such as iron, boron, manganese and zinc. If the soil lacks trace elements, plant leaves will lose their green color, and even plant organs may become deformed, various physiological diseases may occur, and the normal growth and development of rose plants will be affected.
② Types of commonly used chemical fertilizers for roses and fertilization requirements
a. Urea. Urea is a nitrogen fertilizer often used in rose production, mainly as a top dressing. Top dressing is generally applied in furrows or holes, and takes effect 5~7 days after application. After applying urea, water should be given promptly. The usual amount per mu per application is generally 10~15 kg. Urea can be top-dressed 3~4 times a year. For sandy soil, attention should be paid to frequent and light applications.
b. Ammonium bicarbonate. Abbreviated as ammonium bicarbonate, it is a quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer and can only be used as a top dressing, applied in furrows or holes, not broadcast on the surface; it volatilizes quickly, so it must be covered with soil promptly and combined with watering. It takes effect within 2 days after application. When applying, do not let the fertilizer fall on plant leaves and burn them. The amount per mu per application is 10~20 kg, and it can be top-dressed 3~4 times a year. This fertilizer dissolves easily and is lost, so special attention should be paid to frequent and light applications. Long-term use of this fertilizer will not damage soil structure or cause soil compaction, so it is widely used in production.
c. Superphosphate. Mainly used as a base fertilizer, it has a slow fertilizer effect; in production it is often mixed with soil and farmyard manure and applied as a base fertilizer in autumn. Mainly applied in furrows, the usual amount per mu is generally 30~50 kg. Superphosphate easily cakes, so it should be fully crushed or pounded before use, otherwise it will burn plant roots. In late autumn growth of roses, a 1% superphosphate extract can be used for foliar fertilization, and the effect is also very good.
d. Calcium magnesium phosphate. The properties, usage and dosage of calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer are the same as those of superphosphate, but calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer is non-corrosive, does not absorb moisture and does not cake, and is convenient to use, so it is widely adopted in production.
e. Potassium sulfate. Potassium sulfate has low mobility in the soil, so it can be used as a base fertilizer or a top dressing, and is especially best applied as a top dressing before roses bud, with remarkable results. The higher the yield of a rose garden, the more potassium fertilizer needs to be top-dressed. Potassium sulfate is generally applied in furrows, with a usual amount per mu of 10~15 kg, and top-dressing once a year is sufficient. Long-term use of potassium sulfate can cause soil compaction, so it is better mixed into organic fertilizer as a base fertilizer. Potassium sulfate is acidic and somewhat corrosive, so avoid contact with branches and leaves to prevent burning. Potassium sulfate must not be mixed with nitrogen fertilizer or superphosphate, otherwise the fertilizer effect will be severely reduced. For roses, foliar fertilization with potassium sulfate before budding works very well, using a concentration of 0.5%, with fast absorption and obvious results.
f. Potassium chloride. The properties, usage and dosage of potassium chloride are basically the same as those of potassium sulfate. Potassium chloride should not be used on saline-alkali land.
g. Diammonium phosphate. Diammonium phosphate is a very good nitrogen-phosphorus compound fertilizer with a long-lasting and high fertilizer effect; it is mainly suitable as a base fertilizer, mainly applied in furrows, with an amount per mu of 30~50 kg. When diammonium phosphate has already been added to the base fertilizer, there is no need to add more phosphorus fertilizer.
h. Monopotassium phosphate. Monopotassium phosphate is a phosphorus-potassium composite material with high solubility, suitable for use as a foliar fertilizer, with a conventional concentration of 0.2%~0.3%, generally sprayed once every 15 days. It can also be applied together with pesticide spraying.
③ Fertilization timing
The types of fertilization for roses include base fertilizer and top dressing.
a. Base fertilizer. Rose base fertilizer is applied after leaf fall in autumn, and the fertilization time should be as early as possible. Applying base fertilizer early in autumn can not only allow the roots injured during furrow fertilization to heal and produce new roots, but also allow the applied soil and farmyard manure to fully decompose and break down in the soil, which helps promote vigorous growth of the plants the following spring. The specific time in northern regions should preferably be from late September to early October. If autumn base fertilizer is applied too late, it often affects the normal growth of the plants the following spring.
b. Top dressing. Rose top dressing is carried out during the spring and summer growing seasons, and the fertilizers applied are mainly chemical fertilizers, with quick effects and strong targeting. The specific top-dressing times can be divided into 4 periods: the bud-break period, the flower-bud period, the full-bloom period and the post-bloom period. During these 4 periods, plant growth is large and fertilizer demand is high, so nutrients should be replenished into the soil in time to ensure flower yield. The fertilization experience of flower growers in rose-producing areas of southern China is: “three-five flowers red” and “four waterings and three fertilizations and the flowers are all harvested.” This means that from when roses begin to form flower buds until the flowers are completely harvested, 4 waterings and 3 fertilizations should be given. This sufficiently shows that multiple top-dressings of chemical fertilizer during the rose flowering period are of extremely important significance to flower yield.
3. Temperature control
The most suitable growth and development temperature for rose production is 24°C~26°C during the day and 14°C~16°C at night. In winter, when the night temperature is below 8°C, growth is slow, branches become shorter and the number of double-center flowers increases. When the night temperature remains below 5°C for a long time, the new shoots produced are shorter and the number of blind shoots increases. The ideal day-night temperature difference is 10°C~12°C.
Install a temperature and humidity recorder or dry-and-wet bulb thermometers in the greenhouse to observe temperature changes inside, and carry out temperature regulation and management according to temperature changes. When the temperature is on the high side, open the roof vents and side windows all around for natural ventilation and cooling; when the daytime temperature is higher than 30°C, use shading to cool down. In hot and dry seasons, misting can be used to cool down; when the temperature is on the low side, close the side windows around the greenhouse, and add a thermal screen inside the greenhouse for insulation; at night the thermal screen is mainly used to prevent heat exchange and loss, raise the temperature of plant leaves and prevent dew formation, thereby increasing yield and improving cut flower quality, especially for red varieties, but the thermal screen cannot always be kept completely closed during the day.
4. Humidity control
The relative humidity required by roses during bud break and the branch-and-leaf growth period is 70%~80%, and the relative humidity required during the flowering period is 40%~60%; during the day humidity should be controlled at 40%, and at night it should be controlled at 60%. When the humidity inside the greenhouse is above 90%, water droplets begin to form on the greenhouse film, gutters, plants and leaves, easily inducing many diseases. Soil moisture conditions are crucial to the growth, development and yield of roses, and changes in soil moisture conditions should be closely monitored throughout the entire rose growing season. Generally speaking, spring in northern China is relatively dry, so the water for bud break, flower promotion, full bloom and post-bloom should be watered in time, about once every 15~20 days, to keep the soil in good moisture condition at all times. In practice, watering and fertilization are carried out together in production; after each top dressing, as long as it does not rain immediately, water once in time, otherwise the top dressing will not achieve the desired effect. Rose gardens are generally watered by bed irrigation, but this method uses a large amount of water and easily causes large losses of soil nutrients, so the amount of water should be controlled when watering, with the aim of thoroughly watering the root-zone soil. In production, narrow-bed irrigation should be advocated, which can greatly save water. Where conditions permit, rose gardens should develop drip irrigation, which can not only greatly save water but also always maintain soil aeration and prevent soil compaction.
5. Light control
Roses like light, especially scattered light. The light saturation point of the leaves is 35000~50000 Lux, and the light compensation point is 10000 Lux. The synthesis of anthocyanins in cut roses requires ultraviolet light, but too strong ultraviolet light will cause black edges on the petals of red varieties; for red varieties, it is suitable to choose greenhouse film with a transmittance of about 20% in the 0~350 nm band. On cloudy and rainy days, a certain amount of scattered light must be ensured. During the shoot-growing period of roses, do not use shade nets, to ensure the plants have sufficient light; after budding, a 60%~75% silver-gray shade net can be used during 10:00-16:00 on sunny days; on consecutive cloudy and rainy days in summer, do not shade; in winter, do not shade; when the greenhouse soil surface is too wet, or there is downy mildew or gray mold, do not shade.
6. Intertillage and weeding
After each watering and rain in a rose garden, intertillage and weeding should be carried out in time, which can not only loosen the soil but also prevent weeds from growing and competing with the roses for water and nutrients. Every year when the rainy season comes, the rose garden should be intertilled more times, so as to effectively loosen the surface soil, increase soil permeability, improve soil air conditions, ensure normal root growth and prevent the occurrence of root rot and other diseases.
Rose pruning techniques
1. Plant shape training
During the seedling stage, all flower heads should be removed when they are the size of a pea, keeping the leaves; when branches reach a length of more than 50 cm, bend the branches down, taking care not to break them. Newly sprouted thick branches are used as cut-flower branches, and overly thin branches are bent down as vegetative branches; thin and weak branches growing from vegetative branches continue to be bent down. When bending branches, note that plants and branches must not cross each other, and the number of bent branches should be enough to cover the side of the bed, so that the leaves can receive sufficient light. Bending should generally be done on a sunny afternoon. While pruning vegetative branches, also remove thin and weak branches and short branches within 10 cm of the roots, which can increase light in the lower part and promote sprouting.
2. Pruning during the flowering period
The pruning principle is to leave low stubs in spring and summer and high stubs in autumn and winter. For branches whose lower part is about 0.5 cm in diameter, keep 2~3 buds; for branches whose lower part is about 0.8 cm in diameter, keep 3~5 buds; promptly cut off branches less than 50 cm long or blind-flowered, deformed, or more than 0.5 cm in diameter; for branches less than 0.5 cm in diameter with a high sprouting position, carry out pruning treatment, either cutting close to the stub or cutting back the main branch; branches with a low sprouting position are directly bent down as vegetative branches. The general principle is: thick branches are raised upward, thin branches are bent downward.
3. Training of roses
Training refers to cutting all branches of the rose from the base, while pruning refers to cutting off only a small part of the branches. In order to promote vigorous growth of rose bushes, vivid flower colors and a high oil yield, appropriate training and pruning must be carried out. The rugose rose is upright and bushy with strong sprouting ability; when pruning, attention should be paid to ventilation and light transmission, branches should be distributed evenly and kept at a certain distance, to avoid wind blowing branches against each other and damaging flower heads. After the bushes are pruned, harvesting flowers and field management operations can be made convenient. For newly planted one- to two-year-old rose bushes, after pruning, both branches and leaves should grow well and flowering can be advanced. Rose gardens more than three years old have very high flower yields and need timely pruning to prevent premature aging from causing reduced yields. To prune roses well, one must understand the responses after pruning. Rose varieties differ, cultivation and management levels differ, and soil and fertilizer differences exist, so the responses after pruning also differ. Through pruning, rose branches should become thick and strong, and the buds on the upper half are better in quality than those at the base, sprout earlier and grow more vigorously. To train and prune well, one must understand the variety characteristics and growth habits of roses and master the pruning principles. When pruning, control the upward excessive growth of thick branches, cut off the top shoots at appropriate positions, promote the growth of lateral branches, suppress the rise of the flowering position, and avoid the occurrence of emptiness and bareness at the lower part of the branches. Carrying out two appropriate prunings in summer and winter can make the bushes ventilated and light-transmitting, enhance light, and concentrate nutrients on the flowering branches. Rose bushes with particularly vigorous branches and leaves do not necessarily harvest many flowers, because most nutrients are consumed in vegetative growth. Conversely, if a bush flowers too much and nutrient consumption is too great, it easily causes the bush's growth vigor to decline, seriously affecting the flower yield of the following year.
4. Pruning of roses
The principle of pruning and training roses is: if the bushes are planted in a bead-chain pattern, 15~20 thick branches can be selected and kept per bush; if planted in a hedge pattern, a certain distance should be kept between branches, and crossing branches, densely growing branches, overlapping branches, slender branches, lodging branches, dead branches and pest- and disease-damaged branches should be cut off, so that nutrients are concentrated on the flowering branches and the flowering branches can grow strong. Pruning should be combined with specific circumstances, mainly light pruning, removing unwanted branches. If too many branches are pruned at one time, it is unfavorable for producing and storing nutrients, disrupts the balance between the aboveground part (branches) and the underground part (roots), and affects the growth of flowering branches and the flower yield of the following year. After pruning, fertilizer and water management must be strengthened, otherwise the purpose of the newly sprouted shoots cannot be achieved. The pruning methods are as follows:
① One-time renewal method. Around Frost's Descent, cut off all rose branches 5~6 cm above the ground, then cover the retained stubs with fine soil and mound it into a steamed-bun shape. In the spring of the second year, many new tender branches grow from the rose roots; after the new shoots stop growing, cut off the overly dense and weak shoots, and the retained branches should be evenly distributed in space with ventilation and light transmission, and fertilizer and water management should be strengthened; in the spring of the third year the roses grow vigorously and the flowers are abundant.
② Two-time renewal method. Cut off half of the aged branches of the bush, use the retained branches to produce flowers, and after the roses bloom and are harvested, renew the retained branches, so that flower yield will not be reduced because of pruning branches.
③ Year-by-year renewal method. This method is relatively commonly used in various places for rose pruning. Each year, according to the growth of the rose bush, timely cut off dead branches, slender branches, aged branches and pest- and disease-damaged branches, prompting the bush to produce new branches every year, keeping the bush vigorous and the yield undiminished, while also achieving the purpose of renewal and rejuvenation.
[Precautions]
① For grafted rose seedlings, all branches on the rootstock must be cut off. Pruned branches should be reasonably distributed and not one side; appropriately cut off aged branches and renew and rejuvenate them in time. When pruning one-year-old branches, retain outward-facing buds to promote lateral branches to form large numbers of flowers. Leave a stub of 1~1.5 cm above the outward-facing bud, to avoid the branch drying downward and affecting the growth of the bud below the cut.
② When pruning and training, for upright, thick, excessively vigorous branches, cut them at 80 cm above the ground to promote the production of lateral flowering branches. Do not prune too late, otherwise they will not sprout and grow branches. Aged branches should be cut off 5~6 cm above the ground to make them sprout new branches. When pruning, select and retain plump buds on the branches so as to cultivate strong branches.
③ The time for pruning and training should be after the rose harvest is completed. Because from the end of flower harvesting to rose dormancy and leaf fall, this period is the growth and development period of roses, requiring large amounts of nutrients; if allowed to grow naturally, nutrient consumption will be aggravated, which is unfavorable for the growth of flowering branches the following year and affects flower yield.
④ The blade of the pruning tool should be kept sharp, and the cut should be smooth and neat, avoiding tearing the cut and affecting sprouting and growth.
Relevant experiments have shown that pruning roses has many advantages. Taking a six-year-old rose bush planted in a bead-chain pattern as an example, under the same management conditions, a pruned rose bush has thick and evenly distributed branches, ventilation and light transmission, vigorous growth, large leaves, verdant color, branches that form large and numerous flowers, a high oil yield, and produces 300~400 kg of fresh flowers per mu. An unpruned bush easily declines, with densely crossed branches, poor light transmission and ventilation, many slender branches, small leaves, yellow color, small flowers, few flowers, poor quality, low oil yield, and frequent pest and disease problems, producing only 15~40 kg of fresh flowers per mu.
Pest and disease control
In the rose production process, pest and disease control adopts the prevention principle of “prevention first, integrated control”; once pests and diseases occur, cut flower quality will be reduced and economic benefits affected. Regularly check the isolation measures of the greenhouse to control the invasion of pests; clean the greenhouse film in time, and ventilate and dehumidify promptly as temperature and humidity change. When watering and fertilizing, do not splash water or fertilizer onto the leaves, and avoid using overhead watering to supply water. Timely remove weeds inside and outside the greenhouse so as not to provide overwintering sites for pests. Promptly pull out infected plants and remove diseased leaves, while treating with chemicals to control further spread of the disease. After each flower harvest, the plants should be sprayed with a protective agent to prevent diseases from invading through wounds. When using chemical pesticides for control, use fumigation as much as possible (sulfur fumigation, chlorothalonil compound fumigation); when using spray methods, also try to choose pesticides that do not easily leave stains, such as insecticides and fungicides in the form of suspension concentrates, aqueous solutions, emulsifiable concentrates and other formulations.
Harvesting rose cut flowers
The harvest time for cut roses can be any time from 7:30~10:30 in the morning and after 16:30 in the afternoon each day. Before harvesting flowers, the harvesting buckets must be cleaned and then filled with preservative solution and placed in the harvesting shed, to ensure that the cut flowers are inserted into the preservative solution within 5 minutes after harvest, and the cut flowers are transported to the cold storage as soon as possible for precooling, with the cold storage temperature at 5±1°C. The harvest standard must be determined according to the cut flower variety, the market it enters, and the transport distance and time, etc. Flowering index:
1. Sepals slightly loose, petal tips still tightly closed, suitable for long-distance transport and storage.
2. Calyx loose, suitable for long-distance transport.
3. Petals extending beyond the sepals, can be used for both long-distance and short-distance transport.
4. Outer petals beginning to loosen, suitable for short-distance transport and nearby wholesale sales. In addition, according to variety characteristics and harvest season, the harvest standard can be appropriately adjusted; when summer temperatures are high, harvest appropriately earlier, and when winter temperatures are low, harvest at a greater degree of maturity. Harvesting too early or too late will affect the vase life quality of cut flowers.
Rose planting, how to plant roses, introduction to rose planting and cultivation techniques
Introduction: How are roses planted? This is the topic that every rose lover cares about most. When it comes to roses, no one is unfamiliar with them, because their scent and flower colors are always unforgettable. Roses like ample sunlight, are cold-resistant and drought-resistant, and prefer well-drained, loose and fertile loam or light loam; they grow poorly and flower poorly in clay loam.
Roses are mainly propagated by division, and can also be propagated by layering and cuttings. One year before division, apply sufficient fertilizer near the mother plant's root zone and water it, while keeping the soil loose and moist to promote abundant root suckering. Because roses have very strong suckering ability, the mother branch easily withers after each new branch is produced, so tender branches near the root zone must be transplanted elsewhere in time, so that the mother branch can still grow vigorously.
For layering propagation, in the plum rain season from June to August each year, select vigorous current-year branches, bend them into the soil, notch the buried part and insert a clod of soil into the wound, bury it in the soil, fix it with a bamboo fork or tree fork, let the branch tip remain exposed above ground, and keep the soil moist; roots will form in 2~3 months, and the following spring it can be separated from the mother plant and planted separately.
For cutting propagation, before budding in early spring, select vigorous, pest- and disease-free one-year-old branches, cut them into cuttings about 20 cm long, insert them obliquely into a cutting bed made of new river sand, with a depth of 12~14 cm, press firm and water, and often keep the sand bed at the proper temperature; roots form after about 30 days, and they are transplanted after sprouting.
Plant out after new buds sprout in early spring until March; seedlings should be transplanted with a soil ball, and it should not be done too late, otherwise they are not easy to survive. If transplanted after leaf fall until before sprouting the following spring, the seedlings can be dug up bare-rooted and need not have a soil ball, but the lateral roots should be no less than 20 cm long, otherwise they are not easy to survive. That is all for the introduction to rose planting techniques; I hope you can have beautiful flowers bloom.
How to cultivate roses? Rose cultivation methods
Roses are a flower we are very familiar with. So how are roses grown? Below I will share the cultivation methods of roses with everyone.
Level the land: Choose a plot with deep soil, loose structure and good drainage to establish a rose garden, dig holes at a plant spacing of 50 cm and a row spacing of 150-200 cm, with a hole depth of 50 cm, and apply 10 kg of farmyard manure or biological organic fertilizer to each hole.
Choose good seedlings: Choose vigorous rose seedlings; seedling-raised plants should have 2-3 branches; grafted seedlings require a well-developed root system on the rootstock, a stem diameter of 3-4 mm and a plant height of 30 cm, and should be planted as soon as they are lifted; seedlings transported elsewhere should be dipped in mud slurry and packed.
Reasonable close planting of roses: As required, about 700 rose seedlings are needed per mu. Because there are fewer seedlings that year, to save land, 1500-2000 plants per mu can be planted closely; in the second year, the seedlings can be transplanted or sold. Spring planting is carried out in early spring before roses break dormancy; autumn planting from October to December, and summer planting during continuous rainy days in the rainy season.
Scientific management of roses: Intertillage and weeding. Because the seedlings are small, weeds grow very easily, so timely hoeing should be done, ensuring no damage to the seedlings and no weeds. Keep the soil loose. Fertilization is mainly organic fertilizer, generally top-dressed four times a year: around Qingming Festival, apply human and livestock manure water for the first time, called bud-break fertilizer, and water promptly; in late April, before budding or flower harvesting, apply human and livestock manure water for the second time to promote numerous and plump flower buds; in May, top-dress with biological organic fertilizer; in late autumn and early winter, apply wintering fertilizer to ensure the seedlings overwinter safely. After flowering in June and during the winter dormant period, cut off aged branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches and weak branches, so as to promote new branches. At all stages of field management, attention should be paid to pest and disease control.
Pest and disease control for roses: (1) Aphids and noctuid moths: they damage young shoots and leaves of the plants, and can be controlled by spraying 2000-fold 40% omethoate solution or methamidophos diluted with water. (2) Scarab beetles and cutworms: they damage the plant roots and can be trapped and killed with poisoned bait. (3) Rust disease: there are
The above is an introduction to rose cultivation methods. Friends who like roses can refer to the above methods for reasonable cultivation.