How to sow bayberry seeds? Introduction to seedling raising methods

Bayberry is an excellent tree species for landscaping combined with production. It is a small tree or shrub plant of the genus Myrica in the family Myricaceae, with luxuriant branches and leaves and a round, neat crown. It is very suitable for solitary planting, cluster planting on lawns, courtyards, or row planting along roadsides. It is distributed in East China and Hunan, Guangdong, Guangxi, Guizhou and other regions of China. Now let us take a look at how to grow bayberry seeds well!

Nursery site selection

When selecting a nursery site, attention should be paid to the location, terrain and direction of the nursery site. It is best to choose a section with convenient transportation and flat terrain. If it is sloping land, the slope should generally not exceed 5°. The slope aspect should preferably face north or northeast. The soil should preferably be fertile, loose in texture and deep sandy loam. In sandy soil that is too loose, the upper layer dries easily, while the lower layer has sufficient fertilizer and water, so the root system extends downward, forming thick and straight roots with underdeveloped fibrous roots. Clay and saline-alkali soil are both unsuitable for raising seedlings.

Seed collection

Bayberry seeds should be collected from fully mature fruits on robust adult trees. When collecting seeds, first check whether the seed kernels of the fruits are plump, and collect from fruit trees with plump seed kernels. The harvested fruits should preferably be placed in a suitable location not exposed to direct sunlight, spread out and piled up, with the pile height generally not exceeding 15 cm. After piling for 4 to 5 days, the flesh rots. They can then be rinsed in running water, and the floating shriveled seeds removed. Dry the surface and set aside for use.

Land preparation and fertilization

Before sowing bayberry seeds, the land should first be prepared. Paddy fields or flat land with a relatively thin soil layer should be plowed to a depth of 23 to 27 cm, while mountainous land or land with a deep soil layer can be plowed deeper. After plowing, it should be sun-bleached, then fertilized in layers, and repeatedly plowed and harrowed so that the soil is fully broken up finely. The bed surface width is 1 m, the ditch surface width is 30 cm, the height of beds on mountainous land is 10 to 15 cm, and the height of beds on flat land is 20 to 30 cm. Apply 3000 to 5000 kg of pig or cattle pen manure or compost per mu, 15 to 20 kg of superphosphate, and an appropriate amount of plant ash. Paddy fields should have deep drainage ditches dug around them, and mountainous land should be protected against drought and flooding.

Sowing method

Before sowing bayberry seeds, soak the seeds in 0.1% potassium permanganate solution or 40% thiophanate-methyl 800-fold solution for 10 minutes. After breaking up the surface of the nursery bed, evenly scatter the seeds on the surface of the bed, sowing 1.25 to 1.5 kg of seeds per square meter. After sowing, gently press the seeds into the soil with a wooden board, cover with a layer of fine soil about 2 to 3 cm deep, and then cover with a thin layer of grass to prevent rain erosion and drying of the topsoil.

Seedling stage management

After sowing bayberry seeds, when the weather turns cold in mid-December, cover with a film low tunnel to keep warm. Maintain a certain temperature and pay attention to drainage and preventing rodent damage. Generally sown in mid-to-late October, the seeds germinate in January of the following year and seedlings emerge from the soil in mid-February. After emergence, if the sunlight at noon is too strong, open the film at both ends of the low tunnel for ventilation to reduce the temperature and humidity inside the tunnel and prevent sunscald or damping-off disease. Transplanting can be done in late July.

Transplanting small seedlings

After bayberry seedlings emerge and reach about 10 cm in height and grow 4 to 5 leaves, they can be transplanted. Before transplanting, the nursery should be prepared and fertilized, and at the same time 25 kg of lime should be broadcast on the bed surface per mu or thiophanate-methyl 600-fold solution sprayed. Then transplant the seedlings at a row spacing of 30 to 35 cm and a plant spacing of 8 to 10 cm. When transplanting seedlings, choose cloudy days or the morning or evening of sunny days, and water thoroughly to settle the roots, transplanting 12,000 to 14,000 plants per mu.

Transplanting management

Bayberry seedlings are very sensitive to fertilizer. Even applying a small amount of dilute fertilizer can easily cause seedling death. Only after the root system has recovered and grown well and 4 to 5 new leaves have grown can diluted human manure and urine be applied (1 bucket of water plus 2 spoonfuls of human manure and urine, 0.25 kg of urea). After that, apply 2% ternary compound fertilizer solution or dilute human manure and urine once every half month, applying thin fertilizer frequently to promote seedling growth. Pay attention to preventing seedling anthracnose, damping-off and pests and diseases. Frequently loosen the soil and weed to prevent soil compaction and weeds competing with seedlings for nutrients.

Bayberry seed sowing method

Bayberry is a relatively common fruit in our daily lives. Bayberry trees can also be seen everywhere in some rural areas, which shows that bayberry trees are actually very easy to grow and do not require very careful care. Of course, if growing bayberry trees is taken as a career, letting them grow freely without management will not work either!

Bayberry seed sowing method

Seeds of both wild and cultivated bayberry can be sown to raise seedlings. Fresh seeds have the highest germination rate when sown, but production often uses autumn sowing. The specific steps are:

① Seed collection. When collecting seeds, first wash the flesh off the seed surface, spread the seeds in a dry and ventilated place to dry, and store them in sand. Field sowing. Generally sown from October to December, mostly by broadcasting, with a sowing rate of 200-250 kg per mu. After sowing, cover with a 1 cm thick layer of fine soil, then cover with straw or other shade material to preserve warmth and moisture.

② Seedling stage management. Seedlings emerge 80 days after sowing, with an emergence rate of 50%-60%. After emergence, transplant in late April, transplanting with soil at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm-25 cm, which is beneficial for survival. After transplanting and survival, strengthen cultivation management to promote seedling growth. Fertilization is not suitable in the early stage. When seedlings reach more than 30 cm in August-September, nitrogen fertilizer can be applied diluted (1% urea) to promote growth. In drought, water to resist drought. After October, the seedling height reaches 50 cm and thickness 0.6 cm, and grafting can be done the following spring.

Propagation methods of bayberry

Bayberry is a rare fruit with very rich nutrition. Because of its relatively high economic value, it has attracted many farmers to plant it. Below are several common propagation methods of bayberry for everyone's reference. I hope they can be helpful to everyone.

1. Layering propagation. Layering propagation can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn, but the effect is best in spring. It can be used for seedlings mainly grown for foliage and fruit. Generally, select plants with excellent varieties, first fill soil under the crown, then make 2 to 3 vertical cuts below the branch to be layered, deep to the xylem, or perform ring barking with a width of 2 to 4 cm. Press the treated branch into the soil, and pour ABT No. 1 rooting powder 800-fold solution shallowly at the vertical cuts or barked area, which can promote early rooting. Then cover with 58 cm of fine soil, and place stones and other heavy objects on the fine soil to prevent the layered branch from being moved by wind, which is unfavorable for rooting. Generally, new roots can grow at the vertical cut site in about 50 to 75 days. Before transplanting to the nursery for cultivation as needed, cut 3~4 cm below the new roots and then transplant. After one year of cultivation, they can become seedlings and leave the nursery.

2. Seedling propagation. For seedlings mainly grown for foliage, seedling cultivation is mostly used. The seeds of seedlings should preferably be collected from robust adult seedling trees. The seed germination rate is directly proportional to the kernel. When collecting seeds, check the fruit kernels of the seed trees. Select individual plants with plump kernels and full maturity for collection and propagation. After collection, soak in water for 5~6 days until the flesh rots, then wash clean, remove the floating shriveled seeds, then soak the seeds in 5% salt water for 10-12 days before sowing in the seedbed. The seedbed should preferably be fertile, loose sandy loam. When sowing, drill sowing or broadcasting can be used. Press the seeds flat into the soil with a wooden board on the bed surface, then cover with a 3~5 cm thick layer of fine soil. After one month, the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow to about 8~10 cm, thin them or transplant to fill gaps, and topdress with some dilute human and animal manure water fertilizer to promote robust seedling growth. After about one year of growth, they become seedlings. They can leave the nursery for transplanting or serve as rootstock for grafted seedlings.

3. Grafted seedling propagation. For seedlings mainly grown for fruit, grafting propagation is used to maintain the excellent characteristics of the variety. The grafting time should preferably be in April. Generally, branch grafting is suitable. Select 2 to 3-year-old mature branches from mother trees with many fruits, excellent quality and robust growth as scions, and use 2-year-old seedlings that have been transplanted once as rootstock. If the rootstock is less than 1 cm, cut grafting or bark grafting is commonly used. If the rootstock is more than 1 cm, cleft grafting, side grafting or approach grafting can be used. The scion is 12 cm long, with one node kept at the upper end and cut evenly at the lower end. Because bayberry rootstock has a strong apical growth advantage, after grafting the rootstock sap rises in large amounts and quickly, which easily affects survival. To improve the survival rate, the following methods can be used to reduce the speed of rootstock sap rising:

① Root cutting method. For small rootstocks below 1 cm, cut off the main root and part of the lateral roots from both sides of the rootstock after grafting.

② Branch retention to slow vigor method. Mostly used for small rootstocks below 4 cm. First graft on the rootstock branches, leaving a small number of branches as “water-leading branches” to absorb sap, and cut them off about 30 days after successful grafting.

③ Rootstock top cutting in advance method. Cut off the upper part of the rootstock 15—20 days before grafting. This can better inhibit sap rising and improve the survival rate.

④ Rootstock ring cutting method. When the rootstock diameter is more than 1.5 cm, perform two rounds of cross ring cutting 5 cm below the grafting interface, retaining 30% of the cortex in each round, which can significantly improve the survival rate.

Bayberry planting techniques

1. Transplanting time: After bayberry seedlings emerge and reach about 10 cm in height and grow 4 to 5 leaves, they can be transplanted. Before transplanting, the nursery should be prepared and fertilized, and at the same time 25 kg of lime should be broadcast on the bed surface per mu or thiophanate-methyl 600-fold solution sprayed.

2. Transplanting method: Transplant bayberry seedlings at a row spacing of 30 to 35 cm and a plant spacing of 8 to 10 cm. When transplanting seedlings, choose cloudy days or the morning or evening of sunny days, and water thoroughly to settle the roots, transplanting 12,000 to 14,000 plants per mu.

3. Reasonable fertilization: Bayberry seedlings must wait until the root system has recovered and grown well and 4 to 5 new leaves have grown before diluted human manure and urine can be applied (1 bucket of water plus 2 spoonfuls of human manure and urine, 0.25 kg of urea). After that, apply 2% ternary compound fertilizer solution or dilute human manure and urine once every half month.

4. Tree body management: After bayberry planting, promptly remove branches on the stem below 1/2 of the total trunk length. In the second year, select 3 main branches evenly distributed in 3 directions. After the third year, select and retain secondary main branches on the main branches so that the crown forms a natural open-center shape, with height controlled at 2.5 to 3 m.

5. Soil management: When planting bayberry, weed and loosen soil in a timely manner, increase the application of lime, adjust soil pH, supplement calcium for the tree body, and at the same time interplant green manure crops such as beans and peanuts in the forest (avoid planting tall-stemmed and climbing plants) to increase soil biological cover.

6. Controlling shoots to promote flowering: When the bayberry crown reaches 2.0 to 2.5 m, use shoot control methods to promote flower bud formation and achieve early fruiting and high yield. Branch pulling, opening the crown, slowing tree vigor, or applying paclobutrazol to the soil from early October to late December can be used to control shoots and promote flowering.

7. Flower and fruit thinning: For bayberry trees, combine spring pruning to thin out excess flowering branches, especially thin and weak flowering branches. For trees with many flowers in an on-year, spray bayberry flower-thinning agent during the flowering period. About 20 days after flower drop, reasonably thin fruits according to the fruit load of the tree.

Is growing bayberry profitable

Bayberry has wide uses and huge market potential. The bayberry tree has a beautiful posture and dark green leaves. A robust bayberry crown about 15 years old has already been used in landscaping projects as an ornamental greening seedling. Bayberry branches and leaves are green in winter and do not fall off, and have already been used by fresh cut flower shops in winter as matching leaves (cut leaves), and are also exported to Japan. The fresh branches and leaves of bayberry are not easy to burn, so they can be planted as forest firebreaks to prevent forest fires. The leaves, roots and trunk epidermis of bayberry are rich in tannins (content as high as 10%-19%), and can be refined into flavonoids and essential oil substances, used as red-brown and medical astringents. The kernel of bayberry contains vitamin B17, which is an anti-cancer substance, and also contains 32% crude protein and 21% crude fat. It is called a high-protein, high-plant-oil food and can be eaten stir-fried or pressed for oil. In addition, bayberry has various medicinal values such as aiding digestion, resisting cold, relieving summer heat, stopping diarrhea, promoting urination, treating dysentery, promoting salivation and quenching thirst, clearing the stomach and intestines, and removing irritability and foul qi. China's medical community has a relatively high evaluation of it.

Bayberry has a very large market share in China. It can not only be eaten directly as a fruit, but many people also like to soak bayberry in liquor to drink. Drinking bayberry liquor regularly has very good health-preserving effects on people's health. Moreover, there are many ways to eat bayberry, so it is deeply loved by everyone in daily life!

How to grow bayberry tree seeds? Sowing methods and seedling stage management of bayberry trees

“Red fruits hang on green branches, brilliantly illuminating the front dock.” Bayberry trees have a long planting history in China. When fruiting, red fruits hang all over the branches, with high ornamental and edible value. In the process of growing bayberry trees, sowing propagation is often used. So, how to grow bayberry tree seeds? The sowing methods and seedling stage management of bayberry trees are introduced below.

Image: Bayberry tree planting

1. Nursery site selection

When selecting a nursery site, attention should be paid to the location, terrain and direction of the nursery site. It is best to choose a section with convenient transportation and flat terrain. If it is sloping land, the slope should generally not exceed 5°. The slope aspect should preferably face north or northeast. The soil should preferably be fertile, loose in texture and deep sandy loam. In sandy soil that is too loose, the upper layer dries easily, while the lower layer has sufficient fertilizer and water, so the root system extends downward, forming thick and straight roots with underdeveloped fibrous roots. Clay and saline-alkali soil are both unsuitable for raising seedlings.

2. Seed collection

Bayberry seeds should be collected from fully mature fruits on robust adult trees. When collecting seeds, first check whether the seed kernels of the fruits are plump, and collect from fruit trees with plump seed kernels. The harvested fruits should preferably be placed in a suitable location not exposed to direct sunlight, spread out and piled up, with the pile height generally not exceeding 15 cm. After piling for 4-5 days, the flesh rots. They can then be rinsed in running water, and the floating shriveled seeds removed. Dry the surface and set aside for use.

3. Land preparation and fertilization

Before sowing bayberry seeds, the land should first be prepared. Paddy fields or flat land with a relatively thin soil layer should be plowed to a depth of 23-27 cm, while mountainous land or land with a deep soil layer can be plowed deeper. After plowing, it should be sun-bleached, then fertilized in layers, and repeatedly plowed and harrowed so that the soil is fully broken up finely. The bed surface width is 1 m, the ditch surface width is 30 cm, the height of beds on mountainous land is 10-15 cm, and the height of beds on flat land is 20-30 cm. Apply 3000-5000 kg of pig or cattle pen manure or compost per mu, 15-20 kg of superphosphate, and an appropriate amount of plant ash. Paddy fields should have deep drainage ditches dug around them, and mountainous land should be protected against drought and flooding.

Image: Bayberry tree planting

4. Sowing method

Before sowing bayberry seeds, soak the seeds in 0.1% potassium permanganate solution or 40% thiophanate-methyl 800-fold solution for 10 minutes. After breaking up the surface of the nursery bed, evenly scatter the seeds on the surface of the bed, sowing 1.25-1.5 kg of seeds per square meter. After sowing, gently press the seeds into the soil with a wooden board, cover with a layer of fine soil about 2-3 cm deep, and then cover with a thin layer of grass to prevent rain erosion and drying of the topsoil.

5. Seedling stage management

After sowing bayberry seeds, when the weather turns cold in mid-December, cover with a film low tunnel to keep warm. Maintain a certain temperature and pay attention to drainage and preventing rodent damage. Generally sown in mid-to-late October, the seeds germinate in January of the following year and seedlings emerge from the soil in mid-February. After emergence, if the sunlight at noon is too strong, open the film at both ends of the low tunnel for ventilation to reduce the temperature and humidity inside the tunnel and prevent sunscald or damping-off disease. Transplanting can be done in late July.

6. Transplanting small seedlings

After bayberry seedlings emerge and reach about 10 cm in height and grow 4-5 leaves, they can be transplanted. Before transplanting, the nursery should be prepared and fertilized, and at the same time 25 kg of lime should be broadcast on the bed surface per mu or thiophanate-methyl 600-fold solution sprayed. Then transplant the seedlings at a row spacing of 30-35 cm and a plant spacing of 8-10 cm. When transplanting seedlings, choose cloudy days or the morning or evening of sunny days, and water thoroughly to settle the roots, transplanting 12,000-14,000 plants per mu.

Image: Bayberry tree planting

7. Transplanting management

Bayberry seedlings are very sensitive to fertilizer. Even applying a small amount of dilute fertilizer can easily cause seedling death. Only after the root system has recovered and grown well and 4-5 new leaves have grown can diluted human manure and urine be applied (1 bucket of water plus 2 spoonfuls of human manure and urine, 0.25 kg of urea). After that, apply 2% ternary compound fertilizer solution or dilute human manure and urine once every half month, applying thin fertilizer frequently to promote seedling growth. Pay attention to preventing seedling anthracnose, damping-off and pests and diseases. Frequently loosen the soil and weed to prevent soil compaction and weeds competing with seedlings for nutrients.

[Editor's conclusion]Doing a good job in seed propagation of bayberry trees is the foundation for successfully growing bayberry trees, and fruit farmers should pay attention to it. The above has introduced the sowing methods and seedling stage management of bayberry trees for everyone. I hope it can help everyone!