How to Grow Lemon Trees: Key Points on Planting Techniques and Cultivation Management

Lemon is a plant of the genus Citrus in the family Rutaceae, native to Southeast Asia. Its main producing areas are now the United States, Italy, Spain and Greece, and it is also cultivated in Taiwan, China, Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi and other places in China. It is rich in citric acid, so it is known as a “citric acid warehouse” and has high planting value. Let us take a look at lemon tree planting techniques together below!

Lemon Tree Planting Conditions

Lemon prefers warmth, tolerates shade, is not cold-hardy, and also fears heat. It is suitable for cultivation in subtropical regions with warm winters and cool summers. The suitable average annual temperature is 17-19°C, the annual effective accumulated temperature (≥10°C) is above 5500°C, the average January temperature is 6-8°C, and the extreme minimum temperature is above -3°C. Annual rainfall is above 1000 mm, and annual sunshine hours are above 1000 hours. It is suitable for planting on warm gentle slopes with deep soil layers and good drainage. The most suitable soil pH for lemon is between 5.5 and 7.0. The plant grows relatively quickly, with a height of 3-6 m, and has a large fertilizer requirement. It produces multiple flushes of shoots, flowers and fruits in a year, and yield often varies greatly depending on management.

Lemon Tree Grafting Propagation

1. Cut grafting: Cut grafting is mostly used in spring. Grafting is more effective when the sap begins to flow. In Sichuan and Chongqing, grafting can be done within half a month before and after the Rain Water solar term, and in Guangdong the survival rate of grafting within 40 days after the Start of Spring is high. In years with low temperatures, the grafting time can be postponed to May. Cut grafting is simple to perform, sprouts quickly and grows rapidly, and can reach the standard for leaving the nursery in the same year. Field planting can be carried out in autumn or the following spring.

2. Side grafting: Side grafting is generally used for autumn grafting and can be carried out from after the Rain Water solar term to early November. Side grafting has a relatively high survival rate; if it does not take the first time, it can be re-grafted 2-3 times. The scion cutting method is the same as for cut grafting. At about 10 cm from the ground, choose a smooth surface and make a longitudinal cut from top to bottom, about 2 cm long, with the cutting depth preferably not injuring or only slightly injuring the xylem. After making the opening, insert the scion immediately, and bind and seal the joint tightly from bottom to top with plastic film strips.

3. Bud grafting: Bud grafting can be divided into two types: small bud cut grafting and small bud side grafting. Small bud cut grafting is mainly carried out in spring, and small bud side grafting is mainly carried out in autumn. Bud grafting is fast, highly efficient, and causes small wounds on the rootstock, which heal easily. When cutting the bud, hold the scion upside down in the left hand, hold the knife in the right hand, keep the blade flat, and cut from 1 cm below the bud to 0.5 cm above the bud, so that the bud carries a slight amount of xylem. Then use the knife to make a vertical downward cut on the scion and remove the bud piece.

Lemon Tree Orchard Establishment and Field Planting

1. Orchard establishment on flat land: When using paddy fields to establish a lemon orchard, high furrows should be made along the slope to drain water and dry the field. After the soil turns white the following year, mark fixed points according to the planting row and plant spacing, and build steamed-bun-shaped mounds about 40-50 cm high, with the base diameter of the planting mound about 1 m.

2. Orchard establishment on sloping land: For orchard establishment on sloping land, methods such as building contour terraces, contour trenches or fish-scale pits can be used to improve soil fertility and conserve soil and water. Contour terraces are suitable for slopes of 100-25 degrees, contour trenches are suitable for slopes of 6-100 degrees with deep soil layers, and fish-scale pits are suitable for steep slopes and complex terrain where building level terraces or contour trenches is relatively difficult.

3. Lemon field planting: The planting density is generally 3×4 m, with 55 plants per mu being appropriate. The planting period is generally spring and autumn, and autumn transplanting should preferably be carried out in September-October. Before planting, dig planting holes (trenches) with dimensions of 60×60×60 cm. Apply 30-50 kg of organic fertilizer and 0.5-1 kg of superphosphate per hole, or more than 20 kg of decomposed human and livestock manure water. Mix the fertilizer with the soil evenly, then cover with soil to form a planting mound 20 cm above the ground surface. At planting, remove the grafting film from the seedlings, trim damaged roots, and cut off overly long main roots and tender late-autumn shoots. Make a small hollow on the planting mound, place the seedling in it, cover with soil while arranging the roots, gently lift the seedling roots, and lightly press the soil so that the roots and soil are in close contact. The planting depth should be consistent with the mud mark during the nursery period, with the root crown exposed above the ground. Water thoroughly to settle the roots, and cover with rice straw, straw, green manure or plastic film to keep warm and retain moisture.

4. Post-planting management: Seedlings generally take about half a month to survive after field planting. During this half month, frequent watering is advisable, but topdressing is not. After survival, inspect frequently to ensure the soil is moist but not waterlogged, and promote root and new shoot growth. Only after a small amount of new shoots have emerged may diluted manure water be applied.

Lemon Tree Young Tree Management

1. Soil management: Each winter slack season, in combination with shallow tillage and earthing up, dig 1-2 fertilization holes 40-60 cm long and 60-80 cm deep outward from the drip line of the canopy, apply 100 kg/sq m of compost (or barnyard manure), and mix it evenly with the soil. This helps cultivate well-developed absorptive roots in young trees and enhances the tree's nutrient absorption capacity.

2. Fertilizer and water management: Young trees generally receive 5-10 fertilizer applications per year, following the principle of frequent but light application. The fertilizer types are mainly quick-acting nitrogen fertilizers, combined with phosphate fertilizer, potassium fertilizer and human and livestock manure. For field-planted seedlings, from the beginning of spring shoot sprouting in March to the autumn shoot emergence period in September, apply 30% decomposed human and livestock manure water once a month. For one-year-old lemon young trees, usually apply 80 g nitrogen, 40 g phosphorus and 30 g potassium per year, increasing by about 10 g each year thereafter. For 2-4 year old young trees, fertilization time is concentrated before each flush of tender shoots emerges. Apply fertilizer 5-6 times per year, and carry out 3-4 foliar fertilizer sprays during the tender shoot period.

3. Young tree shaping: The trunk-setting height for lemon is about 40-50 cm. When the grafted seedling produces spring shoots, or after summer shoots mature, pinch off the growing tip at a plump bud on a branch about 40 cm from the ground to promote the emergence of 4-6 new shoots at 25-40 cm, forming branches. If shoot emergence is not ideal and few branches form, buds can be removed 1-2 times to promote new shoots from the main trunk. After the branches mature, select and retain a strong branch from the upper part as the first main branch, leave it 20-25 cm long, shorten the terminal portion, and keep the rest as auxiliary nurturing branches.

Pruning Techniques for Mature Trees

1. Pruning of mature trees: Lemon pruning can be carried out in all four seasons, but winter and spring pruning is the main approach, supplemented by pruning during the growing season. For trees that have just begun fruiting, pruning focuses mainly on light thinning and long releasing, paying attention to cultivating excellent fruiting mother branches and maintaining sufficient flower quantity each year to increase yield. As tree age increases and yield rises, pruning intensity should also increase year by year. In pruning, summer pruning is used more, combined with shaping the tree form, continuing to configure secondary main branches and side branches, shortening extension branches, and removing as much as possible the water sprouts that disrupt the tree form. Retain more relatively weak or moderate spring and autumn vegetative branches as fruiting mother branches to ensure sufficient flowers and the following year's fruit load, so that the tree's nutritional center shifts to reproductive growth in time.

2. Pruning of trees in full bearing: In summer, use bud removal and tip pinching; in winter, use a combination of thinning and renewal pruning, increasing pruning intensity year by year, maintaining as much as possible a balance between shoot and fruit growth, and preventing alternate bearing. For fruiting branch groups, adopt rotational compression pruning. For relatively long spring and autumn shoots, retain 8-10 leaves and pinch off the tips as early as possible. When summer shoots sprout, use bud removal and shoot release, repeatedly removing tender shoots without flower buds until mid-to-late July, then stop removing them to release a large number of short, sturdy autumn shoots. After thinning and adjusting excessively dense and improperly positioned tender shoots, this batch of autumn shoots can become excellent mother branches for the following year. For auxiliary nurturing branches inside the canopy, thin them out year by year after they have fruited.

3. Pruning of drooping branches: After fruiting, the drooping portion of drooping branches is more prone to weakening, so the drooping terminal portion can be cut off year by year to raise the position of the branch group and continue fruiting. For relatively numerous upright large branches at the top, handle them according to the principle of thinning strong branches on strong trees and thinning upright branches on moderate trees: remove weak ones and shorten strong ones. For mature trees that were previously neglected in shaping and pruning, or whose canopy is strong at the top and weak at the bottom and has become closed, use pruning methods such as branch thinning, sawing large branches, heavy renewal pruning, opening windows and removing straddling branches as appropriate, so as to reduce canopy closure, restore tree vigor as quickly as possible, and form yield.

Flower and Fruit Management for Mature Trees

1. Loosening soil and root cutting: In July-August of the previous year, release autumn shoots uniformly according to lemon tree age, tree vigor, fruit load and the amount of rainfall, so as to form good fruiting mother branches. At the same time, protect branches and leaves from pests and diseases such as the citrus leafminer. In October-November, after the autumn shoots have fully matured, moderately loosen the soil and cut roots to control winter shoot growth and promote flower bud differentiation.

2. Fruit retention measures: (1) Apply 250x10-6 gibberellin (GA3) + 400x10-6 cytokinin to the fruit stalk of young fruit, or spray 50x10-6 gibberellin + Aiduoshou solution, or spray Guoduoduo solution. (2) From after flower drop to the fruit expansion period in May, apply fruit-stabilizing fertilizer, spraying the canopy with 0.3% urea plus 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution. Once every 7 days for 3 consecutive times can increase the fruit-setting rate. (3) Keeping bees in the orchard and creating a good pollination environment also helps increase the fruit-setting rate. (4) From May to July, generally do not apply heavy quick-acting chemical fertilizers again, in order to reduce summer shoot emergence and consumption of tree nutrients. At the same time, remove summer shoots promptly to ease the conflict between flower and fruit growth and new shoots. (5) If continuous rainy days occur during the flower drop period, shake the tree promptly to remove accumulated water from the petals and prevent flower rotting.

3. Fruit bagging: Choose lemon-specific paper bags with a black inner layer and yellow outer layer, preferably 20 cm x 15.5 cm in length and width. Select orchards or plants with good tree vigor and high management level, and choose lemon fruits with good appearance, no disease or insect spots, and a diameter of 30-40 cm for bagging. For spring-flowering lemon fruits, bagging is best done in early July. Before bagging, the canopy must be thoroughly sprayed with fungicides (Oupu, Bingdu Sujing, Dasheng or Shigao) and insecticides (Kuaishaling or Chongmanke), with special attention to controlling rust mites, scale insects and mites once. If pests and diseases are severe, the two can be mixed and used, and another spray is needed after 3 days, then bag after the solution dries.

4. Timely harvesting: Fruits should be harvested only after reaching the required maturity. Generally, lemon fruits are required to have a transverse diameter of not less than 50 mm, and the fruit color changes from dark green to light green, or even slightly pale green, before harvesting. Spring-flowering fruits are harvested from late October to mid-November, summer-flowering fruits from late December to early January of the following year, and autumn-flowering fruits from June-July of the following year. Always use the double-cut method when harvesting: the first cut removes the fruit together with the portion of the fruit branch that needs to be cut off, and the second cut removes the fruit stalk level with the calyx, trimming the fruit stem flat. When harvesting, proceed from top to bottom and from outside to inside. For fruits high up or far away, do not climb branches and pull the fruit; use a fruit ladder to assist harvesting to avoid pulling and injuring the fruit stem.

Fertilizer and Water Management for Mature Trees

1. Fertilization principles: The fertilization principle for lemon trees is to apply spring fertilizer early, apply fruit-stabilizing fertilizer as appropriate, apply heavy fruit-sizing fertilizer and supplemental post-harvest fertilizer, generally 3-4 times per year. The application amount is determined by the plant's fruit load and the soil's nutrient supply. For example, if a fruiting tree produces 30 kg of fresh lemons per plant, then each plant needs about 0.3 kg nitrogen, 0.2 kg phosphorus and 0.2 kg potassium per year. Fertilization methods can use hole application, trench application or radial trench application. Lemon fertilization should combine farmyard manure with chemical fertilizers, with farmyard manure as the main type.

2. Applying spring flower fertilizer: Apply spring flower fertilizer in February-March when spring shoots sprout, mainly quick-acting chemical fertilizers combined with organic fertilizer. Weak trees and plants with many flowers should receive more, while strong trees or plants with few flowers should receive less or none. Generally, nitrogen fertilizer application accounts for 10-15% of the annual total.

3. Applying fruit-stabilizing fertilizer: Apply fruit-stabilizing fertilizer in May from after flower drop to the fruit expansion period, mostly by foliar spraying 0.3% urea. The application amount accounts for about 5% of the annual total.

4. Applying fruit-sizing fertilizer: Apply fruit-sizing fertilizer in July-August when autumn shoots emerge and fruits expand, mainly quick-acting nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers combined with organic fertilizer. Use hole (trench) application. The application amount should be relatively large this time, with nitrogen fertilizer accounting for 40% of the annual total and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers accounting for 50% of the annual total.

5. Applying post-harvest fertilizer: Apply post-harvest fertilizer in November after harvesting, mainly organic fertilizer combined with a small amount of chemical fertilizer. The fertilization method is mostly deep hole (trench) application. Nitrogen fertilizer application accounts for 40% of the annual total, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer application accounts for more than 40% of the annual total.

6. Water management: The key to water management for fruiting trees is to ensure sufficient water supply during the spring shoot emergence period and young fruit period. If drought occurs, irrigate immediately. If water sources are insufficient, water-saving hole irrigation can be used, that is, dig jar-shaped pits 30 cm outside the canopy drip line in 3-4 directions, large at the bottom and small at the top, 40-50 cm deep and 30-40 cm in diameter, fill the pits with decomposed straw and green manure, compacting layer by layer of organic matter and soil until 10 cm from the pit mouth, fill the pit with sufficient water, then fill the pit mouth level with soil, and cover tightly with plastic film. In addition, the lemon tree basin can be covered with film year-round to prevent water evaporation.

Lemon Tree Pest and Disease Control

1. Diseases: Lemon trees mainly suffer from anthracnose, scab, gummosis, foot rot, yellow spot disease, brown spot disease, etc. Strengthen cultivation management, pay attention to drainage and irrigation, increase organic fertilizer application, and timely thinning and pruning to avoid orchard closure. For the control of gummosis and foot rot, first scrape off the diseased part, then apply methalaxyl-copper or phosethyl-Al solution to the diseased part, once every 7-10 days. For other diseases, mainly spray Dasheng M-45 once a month from April to September (can be mixed with other pesticides). When disease is present, add Xiansheng or Xinsheng.

2. Mites: Artificially release predatory mites, interplant Ageratum conyzoides in the orchard, and pay attention to using Bordeaux mixture, lime sulfur mixture or broad-spectrum fungicides as little as possible or not at all when preventing diseases, so as not to kill natural enemies. From after harvest to before spring shoot emergence the following year, spray 0.5% Guosheng 500 times solution once to eliminate overwintering eggs and also control other pests and diseases. When spring shoot buds are about 2 cm long and tender leaves are expanding, around late March, investigate the one-year-old lemon leaves once every 7-10 days. When mites and eggs reach 200 per 100 leaves, or 50% of leaves have mites, spray promptly. After flowering, spray again when the mite count reaches 600 per 100 leaves. The pesticide should be selected from 0.5 Weiduoli 2000 times solution, or 5% Nissorun 2000 times solution, or 15% Damanling 2000 times solution, or Hongmieman 3000 times solution, Chongmanke 1000-1500 times solution, etc. When the rust mite density in summer and autumn reaches an average of 2-3 per field of view (10x handheld magnifier), or when a few black-skinned fruits are found on individual trees and rust spots and brown leaves appear on individual shoot leaves, spraying should be carried out.

3. Flower bud midge: According to pest forecasting, take advantage of the favorable timing when adults have just emerged from the soil and do not immediately fly but first crawl on the ground, or spray when buds appear (flower buds showing white like mung bean size), or when flower buds have just turned white and adults are about to emerge. Per mu, choose 25% carbaryl powder 1.5 kg, or 2.5% trichlorfon powder 1.5 kg mixed with dry fine loess 30-35 kg for dusting. Alternatively, use 2.5% deltamethrin 2000-2500 times solution or 20% fenvalerate 3000-4000 times solution sprayed on the ground, once every 7-10 days, for 2 consecutive sprays.

4. Scale insects: During the nymph hatching period, apply pesticide 2-3 times. Pesticides can be selected from 70% Imidacloprid 6000-10000 times solution, or 3% Mospilan 2000-2500 times solution, Chongmanke 1000-1500 times solution, 48% Lesiban 1000 times solution, pine-alkali mixture 15-20 times solution, etc. Prune out insect-infested branches, dead branches and closed branches.

5. Whiteflies: In combination with winter pruning, prune out dense weak branches, shade branches and insect-infested branches to improve ventilation and light conditions and reduce the overwintering insect population base. Carry out chemical control during the peak period of 1st-2nd instar nymphs. For pesticide types and concentrations, refer to scale insects. Protect and utilize natural enemies. Natural enemies of whitefly pests include parasitic fungi, parasitic wasps and predatory natural enemies. When controlling pests and diseases, pay attention to selecting pesticides that cause less harm to beneficial organisms.

6. Swallowtail butterflies: When larval occurrence is low, remove eggs and kill larvae. When larvae occur in large numbers, spray during the peak period of the 2nd-3rd instar. Pesticides can be selected from 20% fenpropathrin 2000 times solution, or 2.5% Kung Fu 3000-4000 times solution, etc.

7. Citrus leafminer: Mainly remove sporadic early and unevenly emerging summer shoots, and release shoots uniformly to reduce the insect population base. When new shoots are found emerging, when the damage rate of new buds reaches 5%, or when the egg (larva) rate on tender shoots reaches 30% after shoot release, begin spraying. Once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. Pesticides can be selected from 7% Imidacloprid 1000-1500 times solution, or 0.5% Weiduoli 800 times solution, 2.5% Kung Fu 2000-3000 times solution, 20% isocarbophos emulsifiable concentrate 800 times solution, etc.

Pineapple Planting Techniques and Cultivation Management Key Points

Pineapple is a tropical perennial herbaceous fruit tree. It prefers warmth and humidity, avoids low temperatures and frost, and has strong drought tolerance, but good growth and development require sufficient water. If rainfall is insufficient, excessive or uneven, it should be regulated through drainage and irrigation. Pineapple originated in tropical rainforests and tropical plateau regions. It has strong shade tolerance, prefers diffuse light and avoids direct light, but abundant yield and high quality still require sufficient light. Pineapple has broad adaptability to soil, but is not suitable for neutral or alkaline soil, clayey soil or structureless silty sand soil, and requires pH 5-6. Pineapple plants are short and suffer relatively little wind damage, but winds above force 6 can also cause damage.

Field Planting and Seedling Raising

Pineapple is planted at 3800-4000 plants per 666.67 sq m, requiring a large amount of seedlings. Three methods are commonly used: morphactin-induced bud propagation, vegetative propagation and tissue culture. Bud induction time and method: From May to November, select plants with 40 cm long green leaves, usually 40 leaves for Cayenne types and 35 leaves for Philippine varieties. Pour 25 ml of a mixture of 250 mg/L ethephon plus 1% urea and 0.5% potassium chloride into the heart of each plant to induce buds. On the 5th and 12th days after treatment, pour 25 ml of 1200-1500 times and 600-750 times morphactin solution respectively into the heart. For vegetative propagation, small seedling cultivation is commonly used, that is, using small terminal buds, small slip buds, small suckers and fruit crown buds from the field, classified and temporarily planted in nurseries for cultivation before leaving the nursery. Use the small slip buds remaining on the fruit stalk after harvest to grow and cultivate into seedlings, and use old stem cutting propagation and old stem propagation from renewal fields. For tissue culture seedling raising, use MS medium and culture in a culture room at room temperature 30°C with 12 hours of light or natural light.

Pineapple Planting Techniques

1. Choose a good orchard site: Choose a site facing south, with abundant sunlight, rich water sources and convenient transportation as a commercial production base.

2. Scientific planting: Before planting, improve poor soil and apply sufficient base fertilizer; select strong seedlings for planting. Density: Cayenne types at 3000-4000 plants per 666.67 sq m, Queen types at 4000-5000 plants.

3. Strengthen fertilizer and water management after planting

(1) Fertilization amount: In Guangxi, China, apply 42.2 kg nitrogen, 26.8 kg phosphorus and 38.5 kg potassium per 666.67 sq m, N:P2O5:K2O = 1:0.62:0.9;

(2) Fertilization timing: Usually apply bud-promoting fertilizer from December to February of the following year before flower bud emergence, and apply bud-strengthening fertilizer in July-August after harvest; apply fruit-sizing and bud-inducing fertilizer between the bud-promoting fertilizer and bud-strengthening fertilizer; apply foliar fertilizer once each in April, June, July and September every year, and topdress twice each in May and August with 1% urea plus 0.5% potassium sulfate solution; apply base fertilizer after harvest.

(3) Water management: Drain and irrigate promptly to prevent waterlogging and resist drought.

4. Do a good job in other management: For example, to avoid affecting fruit growth and development, appropriately remove and retain buds; to promote flowering, carry out flower forcing; to increase fruit weight and quality, spray fruits. After all small flowers have dropped, spray fruits with 50 mg/L gibberellin plus 0.5% urea solution, spray a second time 20 days later with 70 mg/L gibberellin plus 0.3% urea solution. To make fruits ripen uniformly, when fruits develop to 70% maturity, spray fruits with ethephon 300 mg/L to promote ripening.

Pest and Disease Control

1. Disease control

(1) Control of wilt disease: After the plant becomes diseased, leaves soften and droop, leaf color changes from pale green to red, the base rots, and finally the whole plant dies. This disease is caused by mealybug damage. Control methods: First, strictly avoid using diseased seedlings for propagation. Second, promptly eliminate mealybugs. At planting, soak the heads in 500 times dimethoate solution, invert to dry, then plant. If mealybug damage is found after planting, promptly spray 500 times dimethoate solution, or 25% Zhongke Meiling 1500 times solution. If diseased plants are found, dig them out promptly to prevent spread.

(2) Control of black rot: The affected fruit core turns black and gradually expands until the whole fruit rots. The pathogen mostly invades through wounds from bud removal and fruit stalk wounds during harvest. Control methods: Be careful not to top or harvest on rainy days to reduce opportunities for pathogen invasion. This disease is also a major disease of stored fresh pineapple fruits.

(3) Control of seedling heart rot: Seedlings rot at the heart and die. It is mainly caused by heating during stacking or waterlogging. Control methods: Avoid stacking seedlings for too long, especially during long-distance transport, minimize prolonged stacking to avoid heating and damaging seedlings due to high temperature, high humidity and poor ventilation. Spread them out immediately upon arrival at the destination, sun-dry slightly for 1-2 days, then plant. Avoid planting on rainy days, and pay attention to deep ploughing and shallow planting.

2. Pest control

When fruits mature, they are bitten by field crickets, which makes fruit quality poor and turns them into substandard fruits. Control method: Stir-fry 5 kg rice bran and 1 kg sweet potato, mix in a small amount of pickled vegetable juice, then add 100 g of 90% crystal trichlorfon to make poison bait the size of beans. In the evening, scatter the bait around the plants to trap and kill them.

Harvesting and Processing

The appropriate harvest time depends on whether the fruit is for fresh eating or processing, and whether it is for nearby sale or distant sale. Generally, for nearby sale, harvesting when 1/2 of the small fruitlets turn yellow is appropriate; for distant sale or processing raw material, harvesting when the small fruitlets are grass-green or 1/4 of the small fruitlets turn yellow is the appropriate harvest period.

Pineapple can be eaten fresh and also processed. It can be processed into syrup pineapple cans, pineapple juice, etc. Fresh pineapple fruit can also be quick-frozen: after washing, peeling, coring and cutting into pieces, it is frozen at -35°C and stored at -20°C, which can keep the nutrition the same as fresh pineapple. In addition, by-products from pineapple processing can be used to make sugar, alcohol, monosodium glutamate, citric acid, etc.

Passion Fruit Planting Techniques and Cultivation Management Key Points

Passion fruit, also known as egg fruit, is a tropical and subtropical perennial evergreen vine of the Passifloraceae, native to southern Brazil. It has peculiar leaf shapes, brightly colored flowers, and remains green all year round. Its fruit is an oval berry, with a single fruit weight of 60-120 g. The juice is clear yellow and fragrant, with the rich aroma of more than ten kinds of fruits such as pomegranate, pineapple, strawberry, lemon, mango and sour plum, and a special flavor, hence the name passion fruit. Passion fruit is rich in protein, fat and niacin, and also contains sugars, vitamins and various compounds such as phosphorus, calcium, iron and potassium, as well as 17 kinds of amino acids, and is highly nutritious. Passion fruit has long been known as the “king of beverages”. Its juice can be processed into pure natural high-quality beverages, not only unique in flavor and rich in nutrition, but also nourishing and strengthening the body and aiding digestion, and is in short supply on the market. It can also be processed into fruit dew, jam, jelly and preserved fruit. The whole passion fruit plant is a treasure. Passion fruit seeds contain 25% oil, and the oil quality is comparable to sunflower oil and suitable as edible oil; the pectin extracted from the peel is a good stabilizer and thickener for food processing; roots, stems and leaves can all be used as medicine, with effects such as reducing inflammation and relieving pain, promoting blood circulation and strengthening the body, and lowering blood lipids and blood pressure; the essence extracted from passion fruit is a good additive for snacks and alcoholic beverages.

The planting industry and processing industry of passion fruit are in the ascendant and have great development potential. Passion fruit planted in the same year bears fruit in the same year, with about 110 jin of fruit per plant and an income of about 10,000 yuan per mu, and can yield continuous returns for ten years. Therefore, planting passion fruit is a path to wealth with low investment and quick results.

Environmental Requirements

1. Temperature. The most suitable growth temperature for passion fruit is 20°C-30°C. It generally grows well at temperatures not lower than 0°C. At -2°C, plants will be severely damaged or even die. Areas with an average annual temperature above 18°C are most suitable for planting.

2. Water. Generally, passion fruit grows best under conditions of annual rainfall of 1500-2000 mm with even distribution. Annual rainfall in commercial development planting areas should not be less than 1000 mm.

3. Light. As a tropical fruit, passion fruit likes sufficient sunlight to promote vine growth and nutrient accumulation. Long-day conditions are favorable for passion fruit flowering. In areas with annual sunshine hours of 2300-2800 hours, passion fruit has good vegetative growth, more nutrient accumulation, fast vine growth, early fruiting and high yield.

4. Soil. Passion fruit has strong adaptability and does not demand much from soil. However, for large-scale production, the soil layer should be at least 0.5 m, and the soil should be fertile, loose and well-drained, with a suitable soil pH of 5.5-6.5.

Variety Selection

Currently, widely planted passion fruits include purple passion fruit, yellow passion fruit and hybrids, etc., but the fruit-setting rate under natural pollination is about 10%-29.6%, requiring artificial pollination. The purple-red passion fruit introduced from Hawaii, USA, has a natural pollination fruit-setting rate of 60%, and also has high sugar content (14.4%-21.9%) and vitamin C (49 mg per 100 g pulp), strong aroma and high yield. It can be harvested in the same year it is planted, with a yield of more than 2000 kg per mu.

Orchard Establishment

1. Site selection and land clearing. For passion fruit planting development orchards, choose areas with relatively convenient transportation, facing the sun and sheltered from the wind, and with relatively thick soil layers. It can be gentle sloping land, platform land or flat land, requiring deep, relatively fertile soil and good drainage, preferably with irrigation conditions. Deep, fertile and loose sandy loam is more suitable. Heavy clay soil, tight sandy soil, cold sandy soil and places prone to erosion are not suitable for planting unless improved. Full clearing or hole clearing can be used. For concentrated contiguous orchards, change sloping land into terraced land, with a bed width of more than 1.1 m, inward sloping, and build a small ridge 20 cm high and 30 cm wide at the outer edge of the planting belt. Also plan the orchard drainage and irrigation and road systems at the same time.

2. Trellising. Passion fruit is a climbing plant and depends on trellis support for normal growth. Trellis types include flat-topped trellis, vertical fence type, “”-shaped and “”-shaped fence type, etc. Generally, the trellis height should preferably be 1.8-2 m. Trellis materials can be cement posts, stone posts, wooden posts and bamboo poles, wooden poles, iron wire, etc.

3. Digging holes. Planting hole row and plant spacing is 4×5 m, with 25 plants per mu. Hole depth is 60×60×60 (cm). Apply 25 kg farmyard manure and 0.5 kg phosphate fertilizer per hole as base fertilizer.

4. Field planting. Passion fruit can be planted in all four seasons, but spring and autumn are most suitable. Planting should be done on cloudy days or sunny days after rain. When planting seedlings, appropriately prune old leaves, remove the seedling from the nutrient bag by breaking the bag, and do not bury the bag in the soil. When setting the seedling, mix an appropriate amount of decomposed organic fertilizer with sandy loam as planting soil or covering soil. When planting, arrange the root system, fill soil in layers, and press firmly. Water the roots promptly after planting. For newly dug planting holes, when planting, the seedling root crown should be slightly 8-10 cm above the ground surface. After planting, arrange a tree basin and cover with grass or film to keep warm and retain moisture.

Orchard Management

1. Fertilization. For newly planted passion fruit, nitrogen fertilizer is mainly used in the early stage to promote plant growth. Roots begin to grow 10-15 days after planting, and 0.5% dilute urea or dilute human manure can be applied, then once every 20 days thereafter, applying 5 kg decomposed human manure or 0.1 kg compound fertilizer per plant each time. Apply 20-30 kg farmyard manure, 0.6-0.7 kg urea, 0.6-0.9 kg phosphate fertilizer and 1.2-1.3 kg potassium fertilizer per plant per year. Farmyard manure and phosphate fertilizer are composted and decomposed, then applied in trenches around the Start of Spring. Urea and potassium fertilizer are applied once a month during the flowering and fruiting period, with 0.3-0.4 kg mixed fertilizer per plant.

2. Irrigation. Passion fruit is a shallow-rooted plant and likes moisture, but is both prone to waterlogging and afraid of drought. Therefore, first open drainage ditches well to prevent orchard waterlogging; at the same time, spread weeds to retain water, and consider irrigating once if there is no thorough rain for 15 days.

3. Soil management. After winter orchard cleaning, carry out whole-orchard tillage, and combine tillage with burying weeds and fallen leaves and twigs from orchard cleaning. Then broadcast 25-30 kg lime per mu.

Fruit Tree Shaping

1. Shaping and trellising. After the small seedlings resume growth, remove buds once every 5 days to promote rapid and thick growth of the main vine. When the main vine grows to 40-50 cm, insert support poles promptly to guide the main vine onto the trellis. After the main vine is on the trellis, frequently guide the side vines to grow in a spiral around the wire trellis. After the side vines fill the trellis, cut the tips and tie them. The side vines should run one branch per side, which helps fruiting branches fill the trellis early.

2. Young tree shaping. Adopt the single main vine, double-layer, four-main-branch shaping method. When the main vine grows to 70-80 cm, retain 2 side vines and lead them onto the trellis separately as the first layer of main vines. When the plant grows to 150-160 cm, retain 1 strong side branch, which together with the main vine extension branch serves as the second layer of main branches, and lead them in opposite directions onto the trellis, forming a double-layer four-branch vine shape. During this period, all side branches and sprouting branches below 80 cm on the main vine and between 80-160 cm should be cut off or removed.

3. Old tree shaping. Shoots sprouted after harvest the previous year almost all produce fruiting vines at nodes above the middle part. As many fruiting mother branches as possible should be retained the previous year, but to prevent the trellis surface from becoming too dense, pruning should be done as early as possible after harvest. Keep vines according to 2 main branches. Branches near the main trunk bear fruit first; after the fruit matures and is harvested, immediately prune to 2-3 nodes. Buds sprouting again from the base of the main branch can form new fruiting branches. After the last batch of fruit is harvested in winter, all fruiting branches are pruned from the base.

Pest and Disease Control

1. Main diseases and control. The main diseases include damping-off at the seedling stage, mosaic disease, phytophthora blight and stem base rot. Control methods are as follows:

(1) Choose clean soil for seedling raising, maintain field moisture, especially prevent overly wet soil, stay away from bananas, various melons and solanaceous vegetables, and promptly remove and burn diseased plants and diseased leaves.

(2) Chemical control: Use 0.5% Bordeaux mixture or phosethyl-Al, Ridomil, Kangkuling 1000 times solution, 75% chlorothalonil 800 times solution, 50% carbendazim wettable powder 1000 times solution for control.

2. Main pests and control. The main pests include fruit flies, mites, scale insects, etc. Use 90% trichlorfon 800 times, Nongdile 1000 times, Lesiban 800 times, Manjisi 2000 times solution, etc. for control.

Timely Harvesting

Generally, harvest about 10 days before fruit drop, when the fruit color turns purple (purple varieties) or yellow (yellow varieties) or red (red varieties) and has a slight aroma, but fresh fallen fruits can also be picked up from the ground.