A Detailed Guide to Lemon Tree Propagation Methods and Seedling Techniques
Lemon propagation methods fall into two main categories: sexual propagation and asexual propagation. Sexual propagation is grown from sown seeds, also called seedling propagation. Asexual propagation is produced from part of the lemon's vegetative organs, also called vegetative propagation, and includes grafting, cuttings, layering, tissue culture and other methods, among which grafting is the most common. Let's take a look at lemon tree propagation techniques below!
Lemon Tree Seed Propagation
Select a robust, pest- and disease-free lemon plant as the seed-bearing mother tree. Pick the lemon fruit in November to December when the fruit is fully ripe, leave it for a few days, then cut the fruit open, take out the seeds, rinse them clean, and sow them immediately; or store them inside the fruit and take the seeds out for sowing in spring. Dry seeds should not be stored for long, as they easily lose their germination ability. Fresh seeds under alternating temperatures of 15-25°C germinate in just 7 days.
Lemon Tree Cutting Propagation
Lemon cuttings root very easily. In late May, take the vigorous current-year spring shoots removed during pruning, leave 3-4 buds and cut them into cuttings; except for keeping one leaf at the terminal bud, cut off the rest, and insert the cuttings into sandy loam. Water immediately after inserting, then water once every few days to ensure the leaves stay green with no wilting after insertion. After one month the terminal bud begins to grow; apply clear manure water once every 20 days. In the same year they can produce summer shoots and autumn shoots, and can be transplanted in autumn.
Lemon Tree Layering Propagation
Lemon layering propagation mainly uses air layering. In May to June, select a vigorous, pest- and disease-free branch as the mother branch for propagation. At the air-layering site, remove the leaves, use a small knife to make a ring-shaped bark cut 4-6 cm long, peel off the bark layer but do not damage the xylem. Then take a plastic film about 12 cm long and about 10 cm wide, and tie the film firmly with string 2 cm below the peeled bark so it forms a cylinder; fill the cylinder with loose, fertile garden soil, and after filling it forms a fist-sized ball of mud, then tie the upper end firmly. After air layering, the leaves turn light green, and white tender roots grow inside the plastic bag and gradually fill the surroundings, indicating the air layering has succeeded. In September to October, cut the branch off below the plastic bag, gently remove the plastic film, taking care not to break the mud ball, plant it in a flower pot, water thoroughly, and place it in a shaded spot to recover. After 10-15 days, gradually increase light, and new leaves will soon grow.
Lemon Tree Tissue Culture
Cut the already sterilized shoot tip to a length of 5-8 mm, then inoculate it onto a callus induction medium while maintaining polarity. After 3-4 weeks of culture, the explant begins to form callus. At this point it can be cut off and transferred to a shoot induction medium. After several more weeks of culture, a cluster of shoots can form; cut it off and transfer it to a root induction medium. After 3-4 weeks of culture, a regenerated plantlet with a root system can form. The culture temperature is 24-26°C, with 8-12 hours of light per day and a light intensity of 1000-2000 lux.
Lemon Tree Grafting Propagation
1. Cut grafting: cut grafting is mostly used in spring. Grafting works better when the sap begins to flow. In the Sichuan and Chongqing areas, grafting can be done within half a month before and after the Rain Water solar term; in Guangdong, grafting within 40 days after the Start of Spring solar term gives a high survival rate. In years with low temperatures, the grafting time can be postponed to May. Cut grafting is simple to perform, sprouts quickly and grows rapidly, and can reach the standard for leaving the nursery in the same year; it can be planted out in autumn or the following spring.
2. Side grafting: side grafting is generally used for autumn grafting, and can be carried out from after the Rain Water solar term to early November. Side grafting has a relatively high survival rate; if it fails the first time, it can be re-grafted 2-3 times. The scion cutting method is the same as for cut grafting. At about 10 cm above the ground, choose a smooth surface and make a vertical cut from top to bottom, about 2 cm long, with the cutting depth kept so as not to damage or only slightly damage the xylem. Once the opening is made, insert the scion immediately, and bind the joint tightly and seal it with plastic film strips from bottom to top.
3. Bud grafting: bud grafting can be divided into two types, small-bud cut grafting and small-bud side grafting. Small-bud cut grafting is mainly done in spring, and small-bud side grafting is mainly done in autumn. Bud grafting is fast, highly efficient, and makes a small wound on the rootstock that heals easily. When cutting the bud, hold the scion upside down in the left hand, hold the knife in the right hand, keep the blade flat, and cut from 1 cm below the bud up to 0.5 cm above the bud, so that the bud carries a slight bit of xylem; then use the knife to make a vertical downward cut on the scion and remove the bud piece.
How to Plant a Lemon Tree? Lemon Tree Growing Methods and Precautions
Image: Lemon tree
[Common Questions] How to plant a lemon tree? Lemon tree growing methods and precautions
[Expert Answer]
Lemon tree leaves are relatively small, oblong, with fine serrations along the leaf margin. The flowers are solitary, opening throughout the year, with a rich fragrance. The fruit is oblong or oval and ripens in autumn and winter. The peel is yellow, the flesh is extremely sour with a strong aroma, the juice is citric acid, and the peel can be used to extract lemon oil. If you want a lemon tree to grow well, it is very necessary to understand how to grow a lemon tree. Below is an introduction to lemon tree growing methods and precautions.
1. Seedling raising and potting: in the south, where cultivation is on a large scale, grafting propagation should be used; in the north, where cultivation is on a small scale, cuttings are mainly used, and grafted seedlings can also be purchased for cultivation. The lemon root system has relatively high requirements for water, nutrients and soil, so potting soil should be prepared as a slightly acidic culture soil that is permeable and breathable, and retains water and fertilizer. Potting and repotting can be done after autumn or in early spring, and can be flexibly timed according to the local climate.
2. Light and temperature: lemon is a light-loving plant, but overly strong sunlight leads to poor growth and development. Generally at noon the plant needs to be moved to a suitable growing spot; the suitable annual average temperature is above 15°C, the optimal growing temperature is 23°C to 29°C, growth stops above 35°C, and frost damage occurs at -2°C. Lemons generally do not need cooling in summer; move them indoors before Frost's Descent and outdoors after Qingming, and they can overwinter safely.
3. Watering and fertilizing: lemons need relatively more water during growth and development, but too much water easily causes root rot. Generally speaking, spring is the period of shoot growth and leaf expansion, bud formation and flowering, so water should be applied in moderation. In summer, with strong light and high temperatures, more water is needed. But it must be timely and moderate, otherwise it will cause fruit drop. Autumn is the period of autumn shoot growth and rapid fruit enlargement, so sufficient water is essential. Late autumn and winter are the flower bud differentiation period, so the potting soil should be on the dry side. Lemons prefer fertilizer; in addition to applying enough base fertilizer when potting and repotting, the principle of light but frequent fertilizing should be maintained during the growing period. The number of fertilizations and the amount applied must be determined according to growth vigor and phenological stage. For example, for liquid fertilizer, fully fermented cake fertilizer water is best, with a cake-to-water ratio of 1:200. In the north, where the soil tends to be alkaline, ferrous sulfate can be added to the fertilizer liquid to make a slightly acidic nutrient solution.
4. Promoting flowering and retaining fruit: lemon is originally a tree species that flowers and fruits in all four seasons, while potted plants in the north mostly flower and fruit in spring. Therefore, after the autumn shoots stop growing, water must be controlled. Wait until both sides of the leaves begin to curl inward, then water moderately to promote flower bud differentiation. Pay attention to fertilizing in the pot and spraying fertilizer on the leaves to cultivate strong fruit-bearing mother branches. The main measures for retaining fruit are: first, strengthening the supply of fertilizer and water to accumulate nutrients; second, carrying out artificial pollination; third, thinning flowers and fruits. Lemon fruits are large and need a lot of nutrients; the normal leaf-to-fruit ratio is 30 to 40:1. Following the principle of removing the weak and keeping the strong, with even distribution, first thin out excessive and overly dense flower buds; then when the young fruit is 1 cm in size, thin out some of the fruit; finally, after physiological fruit drop, set the fruit according to the leaf-to-fruit ratio. You can also leave no fruit on weak branches, and keep only 1 fruit on strong branches.
5. Pruning methods: pruning is generally divided into winter pruning and summer pruning. Winter pruning should follow the principle of “remove the dense and keep the sparse, remove the weak and keep the strong”, cutting out dead branches, shortening weak branches and removing overly vigorous branches with no initial bearing function. Summer pruning mainly shortens overly long shoots on non-fruiting trees, and on fruiting trees removes summer shoots and shortens declining branches in the middle and upper parts of the canopy periphery.
6. Pest and disease control: common pests and diseases of lemon trees include red spider mites, scale insects, aphids and so on, which can be controlled by spraying 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
[Editor's Commentary] Lemon is a common fruit in our daily lives. Many people like to drink lemon juice, and it can be used as a seasoning in many foods. So do you know how to plant a lemon tree? Above, the editor of First Agricultural Economics shares with you the lemon tree growing methods and precautions, hoping to be of help to you.
How to grow a lemon tree, lemon tree growing methods and precautions
Lemon tree leaves are relatively small, oblong, with fine serrations along the leaf margin. The flowers are solitary, opening throughout the year, with a rich fragrance. The fruit is oblong or oval and ripens in autumn and winter. The peel is yellow, the flesh is extremely sour with a strong aroma, the juice is citric acid, and the peel can be used to extract lemon oil. If you want a lemon tree to grow well, it is very necessary to understand how to grow a lemon tree. Below is an introduction to lemon tree growing methods and precautions.
Lemon Tree Growing Methods
Seedling raising and potting:In the south, where cultivation is on a large scale, grafting propagation should be used; in the north, where cultivation is on a small scale, cuttings are mainly used, and grafted seedlings can also be purchased for cultivation. The lemon root system has relatively high requirements for water, nutrients and soil, so potting soil should be prepared as a slightly acidic culture soil that is permeable and breathable, and retains water and fertilizer. Potting and repotting can be done after autumn or in early spring, and can be flexibly timed according to the local climate.
Light and temperature:Lemon is a light-loving plant, but overly strong sunlight leads to poor growth and development. Generally at noon the plant needs to be moved to a suitable growing spot; the suitable annual average temperature is above 15°C, the optimal growing temperature is 23°C to 29°C, growth stops above 35°C, and frost damage occurs at -2°C. Lemons generally do not need cooling in summer; move them indoors before Frost's Descent and outdoors after Qingming, and they can overwinter safely.
Watering and fertilizing:Lemons need relatively more water during growth and development, but too much water easily causes root rot. Generally speaking, spring is the period of shoot growth and leaf expansion, bud formation and flowering, so water should be applied in moderation. In summer, with strong light and high temperatures, more water is needed. But it must be timely and moderate, otherwise it will cause fruit drop. Autumn is the period of autumn shoot growth and rapid fruit enlargement, so sufficient water is essential. Late autumn and winter are the flower bud differentiation period, so the potting soil should be on the dry side. Lemons prefer fertilizer; in addition to applying enough base fertilizer when potting and repotting, the principle of light but frequent fertilizing should be maintained during the growing period. The number of fertilizations and the amount applied must be determined according to growth vigor and phenological stage. For example, for liquid fertilizer, fully fermented cake fertilizer water is best, with a cake-to-water ratio of 1:200. In the north, where the soil tends to be alkaline, ferrous sulfate can be added to the fertilizer liquid to make a slightly acidic nutrient solution.
Pruning methods:Pruning is generally divided into winter pruning and summer pruning. Winter pruning should follow the principle of "remove the dense and keep the sparse, remove the weak and keep the strong", cutting out dead branches, shortening weak branches and removing overly vigorous branches with no initial bearing function. Summer pruning mainly shortens overly long shoots on non-fruiting trees, and on fruiting trees removes summer shoots and shortens declining branches in the middle and upper parts of the canopy periphery.
Promoting flowering and retaining fruit:Lemon is originally a tree species that flowers and fruits in all four seasons, while potted plants in the north mostly flower and fruit in spring. Therefore, after the autumn shoots stop growing, water must be controlled. Wait until both sides of the leaves begin to curl inward, then water moderately to promote flower bud differentiation. Pay attention to fertilizing in the pot and spraying fertilizer on the leaves to cultivate strong fruit-bearing mother branches. The main measures for retaining fruit are: first, strengthening the supply of fertilizer and water to accumulate nutrients; second, carrying out artificial pollination; third, thinning flowers and fruits. Lemon fruits are large and need a lot of nutrients; the normal leaf-to-fruit ratio is 30 to 40:1. Following the principle of removing the weak and keeping the strong, with even distribution, first thin out excessive and overly dense flower buds; then when the young fruit is 1 cm in size, thin out some of the fruit; finally, after physiological fruit drop, set the fruit according to the leaf-to-fruit ratio. You can also leave no fruit on weak branches, and keep only 1 fruit on strong branches.
The above is the related introduction to lemon tree growing methods and precautions, hoping to be helpful to everyone. Common pests and diseases of lemon trees include red spider mites, scale insects, aphids and so on, which can be controlled by spraying 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.