How to Grow Strawberries on a Balcony? Detailed Planting Methods and Precautions
Growing vegetables and fruits on balconies is very popular now, as it beautifies the environment while letting you taste authentic homegrown produce. To grow strawberries on a balcony, choose a direction with plenty of sunlight, and use soil with good drainage, with a depth of about 8-10 inches. Below, the editor of Qiannong Network will give you a detailed introduction on how to grow strawberries on a balcony.
The Environment Strawberries Adapt To
Strawberries need to be grown in a sunny, warm environment. In addition, the soil must have good drainage. If you want to plant them in the ground, be careful not to use soil that previously grew potatoes, because strawberries are easily infected by a bacterium found on potatoes.
When strawberries bear fruit, they need to be separated from the soil, so growing strawberries in flower pots is a better choice. You can choose a multi-purpose flower pot and spread a layer of stones on the surface of the soil in the pot, so that when watering, mud will not easily splash onto the strawberries. If planting in the ground, you can use some dry grass or a mat to protect the strawberries.
The Three-Year Cycle of Growing Strawberries
Growing strawberries follows a three-year cycle. In the first year, you can only harvest very few strawberries; the second year brings a large harvest, but by the third year or after three years, strawberry yields drop noticeably and the plants need to be replaced. So arrange the cultivation of new plants reasonably to ensure that some strawberries are second-year plants every year, which can maximize economic returns.
When strawberries grow well, they produce runners, and at the ends of the runners new small plants form. When the small plants grow 3-4 leaves, you can cut them off and plant them in another flower pot, taking care to water them. It is best not to let first-year new plants bear strawberries; just let them grow more leaves. So when you find that a one-year-old strawberry has bloomed, remove the flowers. At the same time, do not forget to hang a small tag on the plant with the planting date of the new plant written on it, so you will not forget later. Remove other excess runners from the new plants. If the strawberries are planted in the ground in a yard, also pay attention to weeding. When watering, be careful not to get the strawberries wet, because once strawberries are splashed with water, they rot easily.
Caring for Balcony Strawberries
Once strawberries begin to bear fruit and turn red, be careful not to let birds peck at them, because birds easily notice red things. Put a net over the strawberries, or cover them with a wooden basket. But if you have a greenhouse at home, you can move the strawberries into the greenhouse, which is even better. Strawberries will also bear fruit more easily. After the strawberry fruiting period is over, you can move them out of the greenhouse and leave them outdoors to overwinter. In a way, if the strawberry plants experience some frost, it helps increase yields the following year.
Strawberries are very easy plants to grow and can be transplanted. Sometimes you may find yellow leaves on the plants, but do not worry; just remove them. In winter, you can keep the yellow leaves until new leaves grow the following spring, then remove the dead yellow leaves, and pay attention to watering, weeding and pest control.
You can also grow strawberries in plant bags, but be sure to water evenly and prevent birds from pecking at the strawberries and prevent pest damage. The soil in plant bags dries out easily, so check frequently to keep the soil moist.
If you do not like managing strawberries, you can plant one strawberry every 18-24 inches, so the strawberries can spread freely. Of course, it will look a bit messy, and the strawberries will not be large. If you want to avoid this, you can remove some runners as appropriate.
In autumn, spread a layer of soil over the plants to prevent frost damage. After the soil freezes, you can spread another 3-4 inches of dry grass over the plants. By the following spring, when new leaves grow, remove the dry grass. When the weather turns warm and stable, remove the covering soil from the surface of the plants. But leave some dry grass between the rows to prevent weeds from growing and to keep soil moisture.
Growing Strawberries on a Balcony: Methods for Growing Strawberries on a Balcony and Precautions
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Strawberry prices are very high now, so being able to grow strawberries on a balcony is wonderful; you can not only eat fresh fruit but also beautify your home's green environment. Strawberry pot cultivation is now fairly common. They can be placed anywhere according to specific conditions. It is easier to artificially create conditions suitable for growth and development. However, because the container is small and the amount of soil is limited, it is easily affected by the external environment and is hard to control. The balcony at home can be fully utilized, and growing strawberries on a balcony is very trendy.
[Methods for Growing Strawberries on a Balcony]
1. Choose a suitable container.The containers chosen for growing strawberries on a balcony can be very diverse: rectangular, square, round, hexagonal, etc. You can choose according to your own preference. If planting many plants, choose a large pot; if planting few, use a small pot. Generally, ceramic pots are used for cultivation, as they have good ventilation, drain easily and come in many styles, making them very suitable for strawberry cultivation.
2. Choose varieties.All strawberry varieties are suitable for pot cultivation, meaning early-, mid- and late-maturing varieties as well as four-season strawberry varieties can all be used. For courtyard cultivation, choose varieties with large fruit, good quality and bright fruit color that can be both eaten fresh and enjoyed ornamentally.
3. Soil preparation.Use soil rich in humus; take surface soil from a garden or under trees and mix in some field soil. Or mix fertile vegetable garden soil and peat soil in equal halves. You can also mix 1 part fertile soil with 1 part sandy soil. Also apply a small amount of compound fertilizer.
4. Planting out.Select strong seedlings, each with 5-6 leaves, a moderate root crown and no pests or diseases. For early spring planting out, early April is suitable; in autumn, plant out in early September. Indoor cultivation can be done in all seasons of the year.
5. Management.When growing strawberries on a balcony, daily management must be meticulous; mainly, the management of water, fertilizer and temperature must be reasonable and sufficient.
[Precautions for Growing Strawberries on a Balcony]
Precaution 1:After strawberries are planted out, water them frequently with a small amount of water and place them in a shady spot to keep them moist. They must not be too dry or too wet; keep the soil in the pot moist at all times. In summer, water in the morning or evening. Place the pot in a shady spot, which is beneficial for strawberry growth.
Precaution 2:Potted strawberries experience large temperature fluctuations; the key points are the low temperatures and high temperatures of winter and summer. In northern winters, the pots can be moved indoors to raise the temperature. In summer high temperatures, move the pots to a shady spot to cool down.Precaution 3:After strawberries have been grown for 2 years, they can be replaced with new seedlings. Or repot from a small pot to a large pot and replant. Put fresh nutrient soil back into the pot, then plant the seedlings in and water.
Precaution 4:When flowering, air humidity should not be too high, as it affects fruit set and fruit quality. Potted strawberries can be planted in all four seasons, but transplanting in autumn from September to October has the highest survival rate.
Editor's Summary:Besides growing strawberries on a balcony, you can also grow strawberries in plant bags, but be sure to water evenly and also prevent bird pecking and pest damage. Is the balcony at home sitting idle? If it is idle, or if you are growing flowers and plants, then you might as well grow some strawberries; you can also eat fresh fruit, and it can also beautify the environment.
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How to Grow Potted Strawberries: Precautions for Growing Strawberries on a Balcony
Speaking of strawberries, everyone is very familiar with them. They are a perennial herbaceous fruit tree with relatively high nutritional and economic value, and they are very widely distributed in our country. Their fruit is bright in color, soft and juicy, moderately sweet and sour, and rich in nutrients, so they have the reputation of "Queen of Fruits." Many families now grow strawberries at home, so let us take a look below at how to grow potted strawberries.
I. Tips for Growing Strawberries in Home Pots
1. Advantages of pot cultivation: Strawberry fruit has a fresh, refreshing fragrance, bright red color and elegant, beautiful shape. After potting, the plant is petite and the fruiting ornamental period is long (from New Year's Day to May). White flowers, green leaves and red fruit set each other off. Placed in a room (a clay pot can be covered with a white plastic pot for a more attractive look), the ornamental effect is just like that of flowers, and they can also be eaten, achieving two goals at once.
2. Variety selection: Strawberry belongs to the Rosaceae family and is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. There are many varieties suitable for pot cultivation. It is best to choose varieties with shallow dormancy, good fruit shape and rich fragrance. For example, Das Leckter, Toyonoka, Shizutakara and Teda No. 1 are relatively suitable.
3. Pot soil preparation: Select high-quality vegetable garden soil, leaf mold and organic fertilizer, and mix them in a 3?1?1 ratio for later use. When preparing, do not use soil that has grown strawberries, to prevent the occurrence of continuous cropping diseases.
4. Temporary planting: In mid-to-late August, select strong seedlings and temporarily plant them in small flower pots. Strawberry seedlings are required to have three leaves and one heart, and a well-developed root system. They should be 1 to 2 mm thick, and the planting depth should be such that the roots are not exposed but the heart is not buried. After planting, place them in a dark place to recover for about 5 days.
After recovery, keep the pot soil alternately dry and wet in the sunlight, but it must not be too dry, so as not to affect growth. During the temporary planting period, control nitrogen fertilizer and increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to cultivate strong seedlings. The fertilizer concentration is generally 0.2%, once every half month.
5. Planting out: In early October, plant out in flower pots with a diameter of about 20 cm. First place a tile shard at the bottom, put culture soil into the pot, press it lightly, with a height of half the flower pot's height.
Then take 3 to 4 strawberry seedlings and plant them with the arched back facing outward, because the direction in which strawberries flower and bear fruit is consistent with the direction of the arched back, so this allows the flowers and fruit to be exposed outside the pot, with the fruit coloring evenly and looking neat and attractive. After planting out, water thoroughly once to help the seedlings recover.
6. Management after planting out: Water plays an important role in strawberry growth. After planting out, be sure to keep the pot soil moist and not dry, watering little and often so the plants grow robustly. After recovery, water once about every half month with dilute soybean cake water until flower buds appear. When watering, pour slowly from below the leaves to keep the leaf surface clean and attractive.
7. Management during flowering and fruiting: In late October, spray gibberellin once to promote flower bud differentiation. After buds appear, thin flowers and fruit in time. Remove small, rotten, diseased and deformed flowers and fruit, as well as side buds growing from leaf axils, and remove old and diseased leaves to increase ventilation and light penetration.
8. Management after fruiting: After fruiting ends, no longer remove side buds; keep 3 to 5 side buds to form stolons, and grow them indoors as hanging ornamentals.
II. Precautions for Growing Strawberries on a Home Balcony
Precaution 1: After strawberries are planted out, water them frequently with a small amount of water and place them in a shady spot to keep them moist. They must not be too dry or too wet; keep the soil in the pot moist at all times. In summer, water in the morning or evening. Place the pot in a shady spot, which is beneficial for strawberry growth.
Precaution 2: Potted strawberries experience large temperature fluctuations; the key points are the low temperatures and high temperatures of winter and summer. In northern winters, the pots can be moved indoors to raise the temperature. In summer high temperatures, move the pots to a shady spot to cool down.
Precaution 3: After strawberries have been grown for 2 years, they can be replaced with new seedlings. Or repot from a small pot to a large pot and replant. Put fresh nutrient soil back into the pot, then plant the seedlings in and water.
Precaution 4: When flowering, air humidity should not be too high, as it affects fruit set and fruit quality. Potted strawberries can be planted in all four seasons, but transplanting in autumn from September to October has the highest survival rate.
Besides growing strawberries on a balcony, you can also grow strawberries in plant bags, but be sure to water evenly and also prevent bird pecking and pest damage. Is the balcony at home sitting idle? If it is idle, or if you are growing flowers and plants, then you might as well grow some strawberries; you can also eat fresh fruit, and it can also beautify the environment.
III. Strawberries' Requirements for Environmental Conditions
1. Soil: Strawberries prefer slightly acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter, with a suitable pH of 5.5-7. When strawberries are grown in boron-deficient sandy soil, fruit deformities easily occur and flower and fruit drop is severe.
2. Water: Strawberries have different water requirements at different growth stages. During the flowering period, field water-holding capacity should be kept above 70%; during the fruit enlargement period, field water-holding capacity should be kept above 80%; during the berry ripening period, water should be properly controlled, keeping field water-holding capacity above 70%; during the flower bud differentiation period, water should be appropriately reduced, keeping field water-holding capacity between 60%-70% to promote flower bud differentiation.
3. Temperature: The minimum temperature during the flowering and fruiting periods should be above 5°C. The most suitable temperature for strawberry plant growth is 15-25°C; the optimum temperature for photosynthesis is 20-25°C; the suitable temperature for flowering is 15-24°C; the optimum temperature for flower bud differentiation is 17-25°C; the optimum temperature for fruit set is 25-27°C; the suitable temperature for fruit development is 18-22°C.
4. Light: Strawberries are light-loving plants, but they are also fairly shade-tolerant. During the flower bud formation period, they require 10-12 hours of short-day sunlight and relatively low temperatures each day. If artificially given 16 hours of long-day treatment per day, flower bud formation will be poor, and they may even fail to bloom and bear fruit. However, giving light treatment after flower bud differentiation can promote flower bud development and flowering. During the flowering and fruiting period and the vigorous growth period, strawberries need a longer daily sunlight period of 12-15 hours.
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