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Where Is the Place of Origin of the Peanut? Understanding the Cultivation History of Peanuts in One Article

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The peanut is a nut with abundant yields and widespread consumption in China, also known as the groundnut, the "longevity fruit," and the earth bean, among other names. It is an annual herbaceous plant of the order Rosales and the family Fabaceae (Leguminosae), best planted in warm climates with moderate rainfall in sandy soil areas, and is mainly distributed in Brazil, China, Egypt, and other places.

The peanut is a nut with abundant yields and widespread consumption in China, also known as the groundnut, the "longevity fruit," and the earth bean, among other names. It is an annual herbaceous plant of the order Rosales and the family Fabaceae (Leguminosae), best planted in warm climates with moderate rainfall in sandy soil areas, and is mainly distributed in Brazil, China, Egypt, and other places. Let us take a look below at when the peanut entered China!

When Did the Peanut Enter China?

The peanut may have been introduced to China during the Ming Dynasty (AD 1530). In 1492, Columbus discovered the Americas, which drew Europeans' attention to this so-called “New World.” After successfully colonizing the Americas, the Spanish went on in the late 16th century to establish colonies in the Philippines in South Asia. Some American crops began to be introduced into the Philippines, and from the Philippines they spread to various parts of the South Seas and further to China.

Where Are the Peanut-Producing Areas in China?

The peanut is one of China's three major oil crops, and its planting area is very extensive. It is grown throughout the country except in the three provinces of Tibet, Qinghai, and Ningxia. The peanut-producing areas for domestic consumption and export are mainly concentrated in the North China Plain and the coastal areas of the Bohai Sea. Among these, exports to Europe mainly come from Shandong, Liaoning, Hebei, and other provinces. Because these provinces have suitable climate and soil conditions, the peanuts they produce are of high quality and good flavor, and enjoy a fairly good reputation internationally. Their total peanut exports account for more than 85% of the national total.

What Are the Variety Types of Peanuts?

1. Common type: The common-type peanut has a thick pod shell with smooth veins, a pod resembling a cocoon, no keel, and seeds that are mostly oval. It is the main variety cultivated in China.

2. Wasp-waist type: The wasp-waist-type peanut has a thin pod shell, prominent veins, a keel, and more than three seeds, occasionally two. The seed coat is dull in color and lackluster.

3. Multi-seeded type: The multi-seeded-type peanut has more seeds inside the pod, arranged in a bead-like string. The pod shell is thick with smooth veins, and the seed coat is mostly red, occasionally white.

4. Pearl type: The pearl-type peanut has a thin pod shell and small pods, generally with two seeds, and a high kernel yield. The seeds are plump, mostly heart-shaped, and the seed coat is mostly white.

Tea-Oil Camellia Planting Techniques and Cultivation Management Points

China is the place of origin of the tea-oil camellia. The tea-oil camellia, belonging to the family Theaceae, is China's main and unique woody oil tree. The tea-oil camellia tree has a long lifespan and strong adaptability, and can grow in hills, mountains, beside ditches, and along roadsides, without competing with grain or cotton for land. The tea-oil camellia can not only green barren hills and conserve soil and water, but is also an evergreen broadleaf tree with thick leathery leaves, and its smooth trunk can play a fireproofing role. Therefore, it is also an excellent tree species for firebreaks.

Distribution and Cultivation

The suitable cultivation area for tea-oil camellia refers to the suitable growing area for tea-oil camellia with oil production as the management goal. The distribution boundary of tea-oil camellia in China is: 23°30′ to 31°00′ north latitude, and 104°30'' to 121°25′ east longitude. The main cultivation distribution area is between 23° and 30° north latitude. Within the distribution area, the climate is a mid-subtropical humid monsoon climate, with abundant water and heat conditions.

Characteristics and Traits

1. Morphological characteristics: The tea-oil camellia is an evergreen small tree, reaching 4—6 m tall, or 2—3 m when short. The flowers are bisexual and sessile, blooming in mid-to-late October. After flowering, the fruit only matures by October of the following year. Therefore, flowers and fruits are present on the tea-oil camellia tree at the same time.

2. Suitable growing conditions: The tea-oil camellia prefers a warm and humid climate, requiring an annual average temperature of 14—21°C, a minimum monthly average temperature not lower than 0°C, a maximum monthly average temperature of 31°C, relative humidity between 74—85%, an annual average rainfall above 1,000 mm with even distribution across the four seasons, and 1,800—2,200 hours of sunshine. It is not strict about soil requirements and has strong adaptability, able to tolerate relatively barren soil. Generally, acidic yellow soil with a pH value of 5—6 is most suitable. However, loose, deep, well-drained, and relatively fertile sandy soil is particularly favorable for the growth and development of tea-oil camellia. Tea-oil camellia growing on sunny south-, southeast-, or southwest-facing mountain slopes has thick, sturdy trunks, oval crowns, many fruits, and high yields. The tea-oil camellia is a deep-rooted tree species with a well-developed main root that extends downward more than 1.5 m. The tea-oil camellia has sprouting ability and strong regenerative capacity. By using this trait, old and declining forests can be renewed and improved, and after cutting, new shoots can sprout and be tended into forests.

3. Growth and Development Process

① New shoots: The tea-oil camellia has spring shoots, summer shoots, and autumn shoots. The vast majority of flower buds differentiate on spring shoots, and spring shoots account for more than 98% of new shoots. Before the full fruiting stage, spring shoots grow vigorously; after the full fruiting stage, spring shoots grow relatively slowly.

② Flowers: Flower buds begin to differentiate on the current year's spring shoots in April. Early flowering is in early-to-mid October, full flowering begins in late October, and the final flowering period is from late November to December. Each flower takes about 5—6 days from opening to withering. On the 1st—2nd day of flowering, the stigma is normal; on the 3rd—4th day it begins to wither. Pollen on the stigma has the highest germination rate and the strongest vitality on the 1st—2nd day, and fertilization is easiest then. Tea-oil camellia is generally pollinated by insects, and cross-pollination, especially between different plants, gives good results. During full flowering, if it is warm and clear, insects are active, and the fruit-setting rate of flowers is high. Self-pollination and pollination during the beginning and end of flowering give low fruit-setting rates. Therefore, ground bees should be protected and introduced into the forest to increase the pollination rate and seed-setting amount.

③ Root system: The root system begins activity in mid-February. The period of fastest growth is from late March to mid-April, and growth is also fast in June—July, lasting a relatively long time. From late December to early February of the following year, root growth is very slow.

Seedling Cultivation

1. Seedling raising by seed: Drill sowing is preferable. Sowing can be done in winter or spring. Winter sowing is in November, and spring sowing is in February to March. For winter sowing, the trench width is 10 to 12 cm, the trench spacing is 18 to 21 cm, and the depth is 4 to 5 cm, with a sowing rate of 100 to 125 kg per mu. Before sowing, the seeds should be water-selected and disinfected. After sowing, cover with 3 to 4 cm of soil, then cover thinly with a layer of rice straw, and remove the straw in late April. When the seedlings are about 10 cm tall, quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer can be applied; when there are 3-5 true leaves, compound fertilizer can be applied again. In the container seedling method, after the seeds are germinated, they are sown directly into the nutrient soil in container bags. Afforestation is not limited by season, the survival rate is high, and growth and development are fast, making it an efficient seedling-raising method. As for directly propagating seedlings with tea-oil camellia seeds, because seedlings grown from seed have shortcomings such as great variation in progeny, serious variety degeneration, uneven forest form, inconsistent fruit ripening periods, late fruiting, and late full fruiting stage, do not use seed-grown seedlings for afforestation.

2. Asexual propagation

① Cutting propagation: The soil of the nursery bed used for cuttings is divided into two layers. The surface layer is yellow subsoil mixed with sand at 1:1 or 2:1 (the ratio depends on the viscosity of the yellow subsoil), with a thickness of 6 to 10 cm; the lower layer is fertile soil, with a loose layer of about 10 cm. The pH value of the cutting soil should not exceed 6. The cuttings should be taken from individual plants of superior varieties or superior clones, and should be robust, straight, with sound axillary buds and intact leaves, from one-year-old lignified spring shoots. Cut branches should be placed in a cool place, sprayed with water to maintain moisture, and prevented from being squeezed and heated. Depending on the length of the internodes of the branches, cut them into long cuttings or short cuttings, with short cuttings being preferable. Each short cutting should carry 1 to 2 leaves and be 3 to 5 cm long. After cutting (trimming), tie the cuttings into bundles of 20 each, soak the cut ends in 200 to 400 mg/kg naphthaleneacetic acid solution for 12 to 16 hours. After cutting, a shade frame should be provided. The temperature inside the frame must not exceed 30°C. If too high, open the frame for ventilation and cooling, water frequently, and the survival rate is generally above 80%. Where conditions are good, closed or automatic misting devices can be used, and the cutting effect is better. However, because tea-oil camellia seedlings propagated from cuttings have underdeveloped root systems and poor drought resistance, resulting in low afforestation survival rates, they should be used with caution, and cutting propagation is not recommended.

② Grafting propagation: This is mainly based on seedling rootstock grafting, using ordinary tea-oil camellia seedling rootstocks as rootstock. Seeds are soaked 35 to 45 days before grafting and then sown, that is, sown on a sand bed or nutrient soil at a depth of about 3 cm. After covering with sand, press lightly. The sand should be about 10 cm thick. If the sand is too thin, the seedling stems will emerge from the ground too early, become thin and aged, which is unfavorable for grafting. Grafting is carried out when the seedlings have emerged from the sand (soil) and have 2 to 3 leaves. Seedling rootstock grafting generally uses the cleft grafting method, and the procedure is as follows: First, take the bare-root seedlings out of the sand bed, wash them clean, cover them with a wet cloth, and place them on an indoor workbench (table) for later use. Second, use a blade (single-edge blade) to cut off the seedling 1 to 1.5 cm above the seedling, then split open from the center of the pith of the rootstock, with an opening of about 1 cm, keeping the radicle 5-6 cm and cutting off the excess part. Third, place the rootstock sleeve, that is, use a thin aluminum sheet (or toothpaste tube skin) with a diameter slightly larger than the rootstock diameter to sleeve the rootstock. First make the thin aluminum sheet, cut to about 3 cm long and about 1 cm wide, into a cylinder (the diameter can be large or small) to facilitate sleeving the rootstock. The fourth step is to cut the scion. On both sides of the lower end of the scion 1 to 2 cm from the petiole, cut one 15-degree, about 1 cm long double-slanted wedge shape on each side, then cut it off 2 to 3 mm above the petiole to make a scion with 1 bud and 1 leaf. Place it in clean water for later use. Finally, insert the prepared scion into the cut opening of the rootstock, align the cortex on the side of the petiole, and gently lift and pinch the sleeve so that the rootstock and scion fit tightly. The planting depth should be such that the seed shell at the base has just entered the soil. Plant firmly and press tightly, without leaving the roots loose. After planting, water to maintain moisture, and then plant immediately in a moisture-retaining shed shaded with a shade net at 80% shade and 20% light transmission. The sealing material is generally plastic film, which is both light-transmitting and moisture- and heat-retaining. The humidity inside the cover is 85% to 90%, and the temperature is 25-28°C, which must not exceed 33°C. If too high, properly open the film for ventilation and cooling, and water to maintain moisture. When most scions sprout and open leaves (about one and a half months), the moisture-retaining cover can be removed, and shading should continue until autumn. After that, manage timely according to conditions by removing sprouts, fertilizing, and weeding.

Land Preparation and Afforestation

1. Land preparation

Tea-oil camellia is not strict about afforestation site requirements, but for high and stable yields, the afforestation site should be selected with deep soil (soil thickness above 60 cm, at least more than 40 cm), good drainage, relatively good fertility, moisture, good air permeability, and slightly acidic (pH range: 5.5—6.5) sandy loam or light clay loam (limestone mountain land cannot be planted). However, try to avoid planting on mountaintops with high sand content and poor water retention, and on poorly drained land. In addition, land preparation should be carried out in autumn and winter of the year before afforestation.

① Full reclamation land preparation: On flat or gently sloping land, full reclamation land preparation can be used (slope within 15°). It can be carried out around September, with a depth of 20--25 cm in mountainous areas and 25--30 cm in hilly areas. Remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, let the soil be exposed to the sun and mature, then harrow level in November and dig holes at fixed points around the mountain, with holes measuring 6O×60×60cm.

② Strip land preparation: For slopes exceeding 15°, horizontal strip land preparation should be used. Open horizontal belts around the mountain according to row spacing, with the outer side high and the inner side low. The belt width depends on the slope: narrow belts for small slopes and narrow belts for large slopes. Dig holes at fixed points on the belts according to plant spacing, with specifications the same as full reclamation.

③ Block land preparation: For land types with slopes greater than 20° and less than 25°, or for mountain ponds, reservoirs, and areas along transportation routes where soil and water conservation requirements are high, block-shaped hole reclamation should be used, with fixed-point hole digging arranged in a horizontal “” shape around the mountain. The holes are generally 5O×50×50cm, and soil and water conservation measures should be added.

2. Afforestation

Initial planting density: For pure forests, initial planting densities of 2.5m×2.5m, 2.5m×3m, and 3m×3m row and plant spacings are relatively suitable. Planting density should be determined according to site conditions, variety characteristics, and management purposes. For fertile soil at the foot of mountains and relatively flat land types, use 2.5-3×3 m, that is, 74-89 plants per mu; for land types with poor soil fertility and relatively large slopes, use a row and plant spacing of 2-2.5×3 m, that is, 89-111 plants per mu. In short, reasonable close planting should be determined according to local conditions, and the coverage density of tea-oil camellia when it enters the full fruiting stage is required to be no less than 0.6 and no more than 0.8.

Tea-oil camellia afforestation has two methods: seedling planting and direct seeding. Seedling planting afforestation is carried out in winter and spring, with spring being preferable. The key points are: put topsoil into the hole, make the hole soil fine and crumbly, and where conditions permit, apply a certain amount of organic fertilizer or farmyard manure in the hole before planting. Keep the seedling stem upright, plant slightly deep, spread the root system, tread firmly in layers so that the roots and soil are in close contact, and cover with loose soil on top. For one-year-old seedlings, the planting depth should preferably be 1 cm above the grafting interface of the tea-oil camellia seedling.

The root collar should be 2 cm to 3 cm below the ground. To ensure survival, do not plant overnight seedlings. Before planting, the roots of the tea seedlings should be evenly coated with slurry all over. The mud slurry is best made from relatively fertile field mud and pond mud from paddy fields or ponds. Seedlings used for afforestation should be first-grade seedlings or two-year-old seedlings to facilitate survival and forest establishment. When afforesting tea-oil camellia, attention should be paid to variety configuration. Areas larger than 15 mu should have more than 2 varieties, and areas larger than 75 mu should have more than 5 varieties of seedlings configured for afforestation. The flowering period and maturity period of the varieties must match. The most suitable afforestation period is from early to late February, and it must be completed by mid-March at the latest. Container seedlings can also be used for afforestation during the plum rain season or planted in autumn and winter.

Direct seeding afforestation is carried out in winter and spring. Winter sowing is in November—December, and spring sowing is in February to March, with winter sowing being preferable. Winter sowing has the advantages of early root development, fast sprouting, strong seedlings, and strong drought resistance, and can also save seed storage. For winter sowing, sow 3 seeds per hole in a triangular arrangement, and cover with soil 4—5 cm thick after sowing; for spring sowing, cover with about 3 cm of soil.

Planting Management

1. Management of Young Tea-Oil Camellia Plantations

The tending period for young forests is before the tea-oil camellia is 4 years old. Tending includes technical measures such as intertillage and weeding, supporting seedlings and earthing up around the base, thinning and replanting, pest and disease control, shaping and pruning, and fertilization.

① Loosening soil and weeding: In the year of afforestation, weed and loosen soil once, and thereafter 2 times each year. The first time is from May to June, and the second from late August to September, varying somewhat by region. During the dog days, the surface is scorching hot, so soil loosening and weeding are not suitable. The depth of soil loosening is generally 3 to 5 cm. In the year of afforestation, it should be shallow, and then deepen year by year; around the base of young trees it should be shallow, and gradually deepen outward; loam should be shallow, and clay should be deep.

② Fertilization of young forests: For forest land with sufficient base fertilizer applied, do not fertilize again in the first year. Fertilize twice a year. In winter, apply slow-release fertilizer, such as fire soil ash or other decomposed organic fertilizer; in spring, apply quick-acting fertilizer, such as urea. Early spring is better than summer and autumn. The annual fertilization amount per plant should not exceed 25 grams. It is best to apply it multiple times, with no more than 10 grams per plant each time. Methods include broadcast application and ring-shaped trench application. Broadcast application means evenly scattering fertilizer around the crown and turning it into the soil together with intertillage; ring-shaped trench application means digging a circular or semicircular trench 20 to 30 cm wide and deep along the outer edge of the crown and applying the fertilizer into it.

③ Shaping of young trees: The shaping method for young tea-oil camellia trees is divided into two steps: first, train the trunk. Within the 1st to 2nd years after afforestation, all spring shoots sprouting from the terminal bud should be retained so that the main trunk forms quickly; the second step is shaping. When the main trunk is 60 cm high, select and retain 3-4 strong main branches around the main trunk. The number of secondary main branches on each main branch depends on the size of the tree and the distance between the two main branches. The most suitable pruning period is early spring. Remove sprouts promptly after pruning. Pruning of young trees should be light rather than heavy.

④ Intercropping in forest land: In young forest land, intercrop crops with short harvest periods, medicinal herbs, green manure, etc., to cultivate in place of tending, which is beneficial to the growth of tea-oil camellia and provides short-term harvests, improving economic benefits. The selection of intercrop species should follow the principle of not competing with tea-oil camellia for light, fertilizer, or water. Intercropping requires leaving 1 square meter of area for the tea-oil camellia tree. Tea-oil camellia forest land is suitable for intercropping peanuts, beans, and other crops and some green manure plants, but not tall-stemmed, vine, or drought-season high-water-consumption crops.

2. Management of Mature Tea-Oil Camellia Plantations

① Reclamation: After tea-oil camellia enters the full fruiting stage, according to site conditions and variety type, shallow hoeing at least once a year and deep digging once every 3 years. It is generally carried out after the rainy season each year and before the dry season arrives. The depth is about 10 cm. Deep digging should be carried out after fruit harvesting and before sap flow in the following year, at a depth of 15 to 20 cm. When reclaiming, be sure to pay attention to soil and water conservation in the forest land. For tea-oil camellia forest land with flat terrain and a slope below 15°, full reclamation can be used, but depending on the length of the slope, leave water conservation belts at the mountaintop, mid-slope, and foot of the mountain. For slopes above 15°, especially soil developed from sandstone and granite, strip reclamation is preferable, digging one strip and leaving one strip, alternating every other year.

② Fertilization: Apply different types of fertilizer according to soil nutrient content, tea-oil camellia growth status, and different growth periods. In an on-year, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and organic fertilizers; in an off-year, mainly phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizers. Apply more than 15 kg of compound fertilizer per mu each year, and apply it together with organic fertilizer with equal importance.

③ Pruning: Tea-oil camellia is mainly pruned by thinning. Prune heavily in an on-year and lightly in an off-year. After fruit harvesting each year and before sap flow in the following year, cut off dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, crossing branches, thin and weak inner canopy branches, foot branches, and water sprouts.

④ Adjusting density: In densely planted forest land, generally after 10 to 12 years, when branches and leaves cover each other. At this time, depending on the forest land conditions, density adjustment should be carried out in 1 to 2 operations within 2 to 3 years, replanting sparse forests and replacing inferior forests with different varieties.

⑤ Top grafting to replace the crown: For some inferior plants in mature forests, after two years of observation and marking, use scion branches from superior trees and adopt the bark grafting method. The specific operation is: cut the rootstock. Select a rootstock with a trunk diameter of 3-4 cm and saw it off at a trunk height of 40-80 cm. When cutting the rootstock, prevent tearing of the rootstock cortex. Leave 2-3 main branches per plant as nutrient branches and for shade, and remove all the rest; clean the cut surface of the rootstock with clean water and wipe it dry, then use a grafting knife to smooth the saw cut, with the cut surface higher inside and lower outside, with a slight slope; cut the rootstock and peel the bark, using a single-edge blade to cut open the trunk bark deep to the xylem, tearing the bark in one direction so as to facilitate bandaging after grafting; cut the scion, using a single-edge blade on the opposite side of the leaf bud of the scion branch, from slightly below the bud base, cut straight downward at a slant, about 2 in length, with the cut surface slightly showing the xylem and the pith visible at the base. Cut a short slant cut below the leaf bud, then cut it off 2 to 3 mm above the petiole to make a scion with 1 bud and 1 leaf. Place it in clean water for later use. Insert the scion, with the long cut surface facing inward, insert it tightly against one side. The scion cut surface should be slightly higher than the rootstock cut to facilitate healing between scion and rootstock. When bandaging, leave a little peeled bark below, because large trees have vigorous nutrition, making it convenient for excess nutrients to be discharged; use a water-soaked plastic bag to retain moisture. When putting on the bag, turn the outside of the bag inward, keep the moisture inside the bag to retain moisture, and leave the supporting bamboo strips outside the bag to facilitate the outflow of excess water in the bag. Use newspaper (bamboo shoot sheath) tied in an east-west direction on the outer layer of the plastic bag for shade. After 40 days, remove the moisture-retaining bag, but shading is still needed. Grafting time: in our city, mid-to-late May to mid-June is preferable. The same patch of forest land must be completed within 1 to 2 years.

Pest and Disease Control

The main diseases of tea-oil camellia include anthracnose, soft rot, and sooty mold. The main pests include stem borers, tea shoot moths, longhorn beetles, weevils, ants, tea caterpillars, scarab beetles, and sawflies.

1. Anthracnose: For prevention and control before winter, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution. For summer control, use 50% thiram wettable powder at 300 times dilution or 50% carbendazim at 500 times dilution.

2. Soft rot: 50% carbendazim at 300-500 times dilution, 75% thiophanate-methyl at 300-500 times dilution, 50% thiram at 1000-1500 times dilution, or 1/100 Bordeaux mixture.

3. Root rot: disinfect diseased seedlings with 1% copper sulfate or dexon, etc.

4. Blue-winged longhorn beetle: During the peak emergence period of adults, spray 20% fruit emulsion at 500 times dilution or 90% trichlorfon at 1000 times dilution. During the larval stage, spray 90% trichlorfon at 500 times dilution.

5. Weevil: 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution, or 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate mixed with water at 1:1 to 1000 times dilution.

The prevention and control of tea-oil camellia pests and diseases must implement the principle of “prevention is more important than cure,” with forest management techniques as the foundation, combined with biological and chemical control measures in integrated control. When carrying out reclamation, intercropping, and fertilization, attention should be paid to deeply burying diseased branches, diseased leaves, and diseased fruits, killing insect eggs and pupae, and cutting down historically diseased plants. It is also necessary to protect and utilize natural enemies, such as protecting and cultivating natural enemies like black-margined lady beetles and greater red lady beetles, as well as parasitic wasps, parasitic flies, and fungi, for biological control.

Harvesting and Processing

1. Signs of maturity: The fruit skin is smooth and the color becomes brighter. When the fruits of the red-skin type mature, the skin is red with yellow; for the green-skin type, it is green with white. The seed shell is dark black or yellow-brown, glossy, and the kernel is white with yellow, appearing oily and bright. Harvesting fully mature seeds not only increases oil yield, but is also the original guarantee for reducing the acid value of tea oil. The suitable harvest period begins 3 days before the fruit maturity period and is completed 7 days after. Cold Dew seeds are harvested in mid-October. Frost's Descent-type seeds are harvested at the end of October, and Start of Winter seeds in early November. Early picking is strictly prohibited.

2. Harvesting method: When harvesting the fruit, it is exactly the period when tea-oil camellia is in bud and about to bloom. Breaking branches to take fruit is strictly prohibited.

3. Fruit processing: After the fruits are harvested and brought back, the stacking time must not exceed 5-6 days. They should be spread out to dry in the sun and turned several times a day to promote fruit cracking. Remove all debris, collect the seeds, and put them into storage for pressing.

Purple-Skin Dendrobium Planting Methods and Techniques_ Purple-Skin Dendrobium Pictures

Purple-skin dendrobium is a very common plant. It is rich in polysaccharides and has effects on the human body such as strengthening the constitution, tonifying the spleen and stomach, clearing deficiency heat, protecting the liver and gallbladder, strengthening tendons and bones, nourishing yin, promoting blood circulation, lowering blood sugar, inhibiting tumors, brightening the eyes, beautifying the face, prolonging life, and enhancing human immunity, among many other effects. With such good effects, I believe many people want to understand the planting methods and techniques of purple-skin dendrobium so they can grow higher-quality purple-skin dendrobium themselves. Below, the editor will study with everyone the planting methods and techniques of purple-skin dendrobium. In the process of understanding the planting methods and techniques of purple-skin dendrobium, let us also enjoy some pictures of purple-skin dendrobium to gain a better understanding of it.

[Introduction to Purple-Skin Dendrobium]
     
Purple-skin dendrobium is also called Wanzhangxu. It is a plant of the genus Dendrobium in the family Orchidaceae, appears as Dendrobium devonianum, and is called a representative among dendrobiums. Its place of origin is the Longling County area of Yunnan Province, and it is mainly distributed in eastern and western Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, eastern Tibet, Bhutan, northeastern India, Myanmar, Thailand, Vietnam, and other countries. It is cultivated by people as an ornamental plant. It not only has very good ornamental value, but also has high medicinal value, and is welcomed by many people. Its effects are very good, and it is a rare herbaceous plant.

[Purple-Skin Dendrobium—Growing Environment]

Purple-skin dendrobium is mainly distributed in Longling County, Yunnan Province, and also grows in the southeast and west of Yunnan, as well as in Guizhou, Guangxi, Vietnam, southeastern Tibet, and other areas. It likes to grow in warm, humid, semi-shaded and semi-sunny environments. Generally, the annual rainfall must reach more than 1000 mm, the air humidity is generally above 80%, and the monthly average temperature is 8°C. Growth is best in subtropical deep mountain old forests. It is not particularly strict about soil requirements. Wild purple-skin dendrobium needs to grow on thick, loose tree bark or tree trunks, and some wild purple-skin dendrobium grows among rocks, with very strong vitality.

[Planting Methods and Techniques of Purple-Skin Dendrobium]

There are many methods for cultivating purple-skin dendrobium, mainly using division propagation. When planting purple-skin dendrobium, it is generally done in spring. Spring has relatively high humidity and relatively abundant rainfall, which is very suitable for the growth of purple-skin dendrobium and thus improves the survival rate. When planting purple-skin dendrobium, it is best to choose healthy purple-skin dendrobium free of pests and diseases. Old stems of more than three years can be cut off for medicinal use, and new stems of more than two years can be used for propagation. During propagation, cut off relatively long old roots, then plant. Stone-attached planting can be chosen. Generally, use a plant spacing of 30 cm to chisel out concave holes, mix cow dung and thin mud together, apply it to the base of the plant, and stuff it into stone holes or stone grooves. Apply it slightly thin, as long as it does not fall off. Small stones can also be used to stabilize it.

[Planting Management Methods for Purple-Skin Dendrobium]

1. Watering: In the later stage, purple-skin dendrobium has relatively low requirements for air humidity, and needs frequent watering. Spraying can be used for watering to increase air humidity.
2. Fertilization: If the growing environment of purple-skin dendrobium is relatively barren, appropriate topdressing should be applied. The first fertilization is generally after Qingming Festival, using nitrogen fertilizer and livestock manure mixed with soil. The second is generally around Start of Winter, using peanut shells, rapeseed cake, and superphosphate mixed with river mud and pasted on the roots. If grown outdoors, foliar topdressing can also be used.
3. Canopy density: The canopy density for purple-skin dendrobium is around 60%. Prune and trim the host tree branches so that they are not too shady, which would cause insufficient canopy density.
4. Pruning: When new shoots sprout in spring, cut off dead stems within the clump, remove diseased stems, weak stems, and so on. If planting has lasted 6-8 years, the clump can be renewed according to the growth condition of the clump base and divided again for propagation.

Summary: Based on the medicinal effects of purple-skin dendrobium, we have gained some simple understanding of its planting methods and techniques, and have also enjoyed pictures of purple-skin dendrobium. Be sure to make good use of purple-skin dendrobium and, according to its effects, make yourself more beautiful. Thank you for reading.

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