How to grow daylily seeds? Seedling raising techniques and cultivation key points

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Daylily is tolerant of poor soil and drought, and is not demanding about soil; it can be cultivated on field edges or hillsides. It adapts to a wide range of light conditions and can be intercropped with taller crops. It is cultivated throughout northern and southern China. Shaodong County and Qidong County have been named the places of origin of daylily. The most commonly used propagation method is division, but seed propagation can also be used

Seed collection of daylily

For daylily seeds, choose daylilies that are growing vigorously, free of pests and diseases, and have been planted for 5-8 years. At the early flowering stage, leave 5-6 robust flower buds on each flower scape unpicked and let them set fruit, to be kept as seeds. The remaining buds continue to be picked and sold as a commodity. For seed-producing daylilies, at the early flowering stage spray amino acid 2000x solution once every 7-10 days, spraying 2-3 times. When the capsules mature and the tips split slightly, pick them and thresh out the seeds. Store the seeds in a ventilated, dry place and keep them properly.

Seedling raising techniques for daylily

Choose a site such as a sun-facing cold frame or a greenhouse, use fertile garden soil as the seedbed, and disinfect the soil. Soak the seeds in 25°C warm water for 48 hours. When sowing, apply 200 kg of decomposed, sieved organic fertilizer per bed (1.50-7 m). Level the bed and water thoroughly, and after the water seeps in, open furrows at 15 cm row spacing and 3 cm plant spacing and sow in spots, then cover with 2 cm of soil after sowing. When using a sun-facing cold frame for seedling raising, insert small arch rods and cover with film. Keep the temperature inside the shed at 25°C during the day and not lower than 12-15°C at night. Seedlings can emerge in 1 week. After emergence, gradually lower the shed temperature so the seedlings adapt to the outside climate and to prevent leggy growth. Strengthen field management during the seedling stage and keep the soil moist. Pay attention to disease and pest prevention, cultivate more and spray some foliar fertilizer to promote seedling growth and development, and cultivate large, strong seedlings for transplanting the following year.

Cultivation and management of daylily

1. Reasonable close planting: Close planting of daylily can give play to population advantages, increase the number of tillers, bolting and flower buds, and achieve the goal of increasing yield. Generally, wide-narrow row cultivation is mostly used, with wide rows 60-75 cm, narrow rows 30-45 cm, hole spacing 9-15 cm, 2-3 plants per hole, planting 45,000-75,000 plants/hectare, reaching 1.5 million-2.25 million plants/hectare at peak production.

2. Proper deep planting: The root mass of daylily grows from around the shortened stem, with the characteristic of 1 layer per year, and the rooting position moving upward year by year from bottom to top. Therefore, proper deep planting helps the plant survive and grow vigorously. The suitable planting depth is 10-15 cm. After planting, water to settle the roots. Before autumn shoots emerge, keep the soil moist frequently to benefit the growth of new shoots.

3. Intertillage and earthing up: Daylily has a fleshy root system and needs fertile, loose soil conditions to benefit the growth and development of the root mass. During the growth period, according to growth and soil compaction, carry out intertillage 3-4 times. The 1st time is when the seedlings are just emerging, and the 2nd to 4th times are during the bolting stage combined with intertillage for earthing up.

4. Fertilization management: Daylily requires sufficient winter fertilizer (base fertilizer), early application of seedling fertilizer, heavy application of scape fertilizer, and supplementary application of bud fertilizer.

① Winter fertilizer: It should be applied when the aboveground part of daylily stops growing, that is, after the autumn shoots wither from frost or at planting time. Organic fertilizer is the main type, applying 30,000 kg/hectare of high-quality farmyard manure and 750 kg/hectare of superphosphate.

② Seedling fertilizer: Seedling fertilizer is mainly used for emergence and leaf growth, promoting early and rapid leaf growth. Seedling fertilizer should be applied early rather than late, and should be topdressed when daylily begins to sprout, topdressing 150 kg/hectare of superphosphate and 75 kg/hectare of potassium sulfate.

③ Scape fertilizer: The bolting stage of daylily is an important period of transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth. More fertilizer is needed at this stage and should be topdressed when the flower scapes begin to emerge, topdressing 225 kg/hectare of urea, 150 kg/hectare of superphosphate, and 75 kg/hectare of potassium sulfate.

④ Bud fertilizer: Bud fertilizer can prevent daylily from nutrient deficiency and premature aging, increase the bud-setting rate, prolong the picking period, and increase yield. It should be topdressed with 75 kg/hectare of urea within 7-10 days after picking begins. At the same time, during the picking period, spray on the leaves about every 7 days 0.2% monopotassium phosphate plus 0.4% urea plus 1-2% superphosphate aqueous solution, plus 15-20 mg/kg of 920, once after 17:00, which has an obvious effect on strengthening buds and preventing bud drop.

Planting techniques and cultivation management key points of daylily

Daylily is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Hemerocallis in the Liliaceae family. It is cultivated throughout northern and southern China, mostly distributed south of the Qinling Mountains in China, in Hunan, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Hubei, Jiangxi, Sichuan, Gansu, Shaanxi, Jilin, Guangdong and the Inner Mongolia grasslands and other places. Quxian County in Sichuan is called the "Hometown of Chinese Daylily." Let's take a look below at the planting techniques of daylily!

Growth habits of daylily

Daylily is tolerant of poor soil and drought, and is not demanding about soil; it can be cultivated on field edges or hillsides. It adapts to a wide range of light conditions and can be intercropped with taller crops. The aboveground part is not cold-tolerant, while the underground part tolerates low temperatures of -10°C. It avoids overly wet or waterlogged soil. When the average ten-day temperature is above 5°C, seedlings begin to emerge. The suitable temperature for leaf growth is 15-20°C, and the flowering stage requires a higher temperature, with 20-25°C being more suitable.

Cultivated varieties of daylily

1. Early-maturing type: Early-maturing daylily types include Siyuehua, Wuyuehua, Qingzaohua, Zaochashantiaozihua, and others.

2. Mid-maturing type: Mid-maturing daylily types include Aijianzhongqihua, Gaojianzhongqihua, Mengzihua, Baihua, Qiezihua, Chazihua, Changbahua, Heizuihua, and others.

3. Late-maturing type: Late-maturing daylily types include Daojianhua, Xiyefuzihua, Zhongqiuhua, Dayezihua, and others.

Propagation methods of daylily

1. Division: Division propagation is the most commonly used propagation method for daylily. One way is to dig out the entire mother clump and replant it in divisions; another is to dig out part of the plants from one side of the mother clump as seed stock, and let the remaining ones continue to grow. When digging and dividing seedlings, injure the roots as little as possible, and plant the seedlings immediately as they are dug and divided.

2. Cutting: After daylily harvest is complete, dig out the root stock, then separate it bud by bud, remove the hairy leaves around the shortened stem and the already dead leaves, then leave leaves 3-5 cm long and cut off the upper part. Then use a knife to first split the rhizome longitudinally from top to bottom into two pieces. When dividing, each seedling piece must have the seedling stem on top and fibrous roots below. After dividing, soak the seeds in 50% carbendazim 1200x solution for disinfection for 1-2 hours, take them out and spread them to dry, then mix with fine soil or a mixture of plant ash and loess for seed dressing and seedling raising.

3. Cuttage: After daylily harvest is complete, select from the middle and upper parts of the flower scape those with fresh green bracts and obvious growth points below the bracts, cut them leaving about 15 cm above and below the growth point, and insert them flat into the soil in a slight arc, so that the upper and lower ends are buried in the soil and the part with the growth point at the bracts is exposed above the ground. Cover slightly with fine soil for protection. After about 1 week they can grow roots and sprout. After 1 year of cultivation, each plant may have as many as 12 tillers, or at least 5, and can flower the next year.

4. Sowing: After daylily flowers open, carry out artificial pollination 10-60 minutes later. The fruit-setting rate is highest on the branches at the top of the main inflorescence and the second branch. Looking at node position, the fruit-setting rate is highest at the first and second fruit nodes. For this reason, for the first to fourth branches, the flower buds on fruit nodes 1-4 can be retained, and for the branch at the top of the main inflorescence, the flower buds on the first and second fruit nodes can be retained; the remaining flower buds should be thinned out so that nutrients are concentrated in the fruits and seeds.

Planting techniques of daylily

Fertilization management of daylily

1. Winter fertilizer: It should be applied when the aboveground part of daylily stops growing, that is, after the autumn shoots wither from frost or at planting time. Organic fertilizer is the main type, applying 30,000 kg/hectare of high-quality farmyard manure and 750 kg/hectare of superphosphate.

2. Seedling fertilizer: Seedling fertilizer is mainly used for emergence and leaf growth, promoting early and rapid leaf growth. Seedling fertilizer should be applied early rather than late, and should be topdressed when daylily begins to sprout, topdressing 150 kg/hectare of superphosphate and 75 kg/hectare of potassium sulfate.

3. Scape fertilizer: The bolting stage of daylily is an important period of transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth. More fertilizer is needed at this stage and should be topdressed when the flower scapes begin to emerge, topdressing 225 kg/hectare of urea, 150 kg/hectare of superphosphate, and 75 kg/hectare of potassium sulfate.

4. Bud fertilizer: Bud fertilizer can prevent daylily from nutrient deficiency and premature aging, increase the bud-setting rate, prolong the picking period, and increase yield. It should be topdressed with 75 kg/hectare of urea within 7-10 days after picking begins. At the same time, during the picking period, spray on the leaves about every 7 days 0.2% monopotassium phosphate plus 0.4% urea plus 1-2% superphosphate aqueous solution, plus 15-20 mg/kg of 920, once after 17:00, which has an obvious effect on strengthening buds and preventing bud drop.

Disease and pest control of daylily

1. Rust

[Damage] Rust mainly harms leaves and flower stems. Initial infection produces blister-like spots, which later break through the epidermis, rupture and release yellow-brown powder, namely the summer spores of the pathogen. Sometimes many blister spots merge into one patch, the epidermis curls up, and the leaf surface is covered with yellow-brown powdery summer spores. The area around the blister spots often loses green and turns pale yellow, and the entire leaf turns yellow. In severe cases, the leaves of the whole plant wither and die, the flower stems turn red-brown, and the flower buds shrivel or fall off.

[Control] Fertilize reasonably, drain promptly after rain, and prevent waterlogging in the field or excessive surface humidity. After harvest, pull up the scapes and cut the leaves and burn them centrally, and turn the soil promptly. Loosen the soil and weed in early spring. At the early stage of disease, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder 600-800x solution, 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 600x solution, 50% zineb 500-600x solution, or 40% iprobenfos 600-700x solution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays.

2. Leaf blight

[Damage] Leaf blight mainly harms leaves. Initial infection starts from the leaf tip, showing pale round small spots, which then gradually extend downward along the leaf edge, turn yellow-brown and dry up. When humidity is high, the diseased part produces black mold. The pathogen mycelium overwinters in the soil with diseased residues, and the spores produced the following year spread and infect via wind and rain. Warm and rainy conditions favor disease occurrence. Weak plant growth, overly dense planting, low-lying terrain, and poor drainage lead to more severe disease.

[Control] Commonly use equal-amount 0.5-0.6% Bordeaux mixture or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800x solution for foliar spraying control. After disease appears, spray once every 7-10 days, for a total of 2-3 sprays.

3. Leaf spot

[Damage] Leaf spot mainly harms leaves and flower scapes. Small light yellow spots first appear on the leaves, and after enlargement they become elliptical dark green lesions, finally developing into large spindle-shaped or fusiform spots, with dark brown edges, and the center changing from yellow-brown to gray-white. There is a yellow halo around the lesions, and when humidity is high, a pink mold layer appears on the underside of the lesions. When dry, they tend to rupture; when severe, the whole leaf turns yellow and dies. When flower scapes are infected, the symptoms are similar to those on the leaves. Sometimes multiple lesions merge into sunken diseased areas up to more than 10 cm long, and thicker pale red mold often appears on the lesions. In mild cases it affects flower scape growth and flower bud formation; in severe cases the flower scape breaks and dies.

[Control] Select disease-resistant varieties, fertilize reasonably, and enhance plant disease resistance. After picking, promptly remove diseased residues and burn them centrally or bury them deeply. At the early stage of disease, promptly use 50% procymidone wettable powder 1500x solution, 40% carbendazim-sulfur suspension or 36% thiophanate-methyl suspension 500x solution, 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800-1000x solution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays.

4. Anthracnose

[Damage] Anthracnose mainly harms leaves. It starts from the leaf tip turning dark green, then dark yellow, and spreads toward the leaf base. The lesion edges are brown with densely packed small black spots. In severe cases the leaves wither and die. The pathogen overwinters on diseased residues and spreads via rain. Damage is severe from May to June.

[Control] At the early stage of disease, promptly spray 1:1:100 Bordeaux mixture, 50% thiophanate-methyl or 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800-1000x solution, 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 600-800x solution.

5. Southern blight

[Damage] Southern blight occurs mainly at the base of the leaf sheath near the ground, on the whole plant or the base of outer leaves. Water-soaked brown lesions first appear, then expand and become slightly sunken, with the affected part becoming brown wet rot. White silky threads are produced on the diseased part, spreading to the entire base, and even the nearby soil has white silky mold layers. When humid, purple-yellow sclerotia are produced, later turning tea-brown to black-brown, the size of rapeseed. Affected leaves turn yellow and die because the transport of water and nutrients is blocked. The mycelium spreads from outer leaves to inner leaves, finally causing the whole plant to die.

[Control] Clean the garden after harvest to reduce overwintering inoculum sources. At the early stage of disease, use 50% carbendazim 500-800x solution or 70% thiophanate 800-1000x solution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays.

6. Brown spot

[Damage] Brown spot harms leaves. Small water-soaked spots first appear on the diseased part, then become light yellow to yellow-brown spindle-shaped or long fusiform lesions, with a very obvious reddish-brown halo line at the edge, and outside that, at the boundary with healthy tissue, there is a ring of water-soaked dark green. The lesions are slightly smaller than those of leaf spot, generally 0.1-0.2 cm x 0.5-1.5 cm. Sometimes the lesions merge into irregular shapes, and in the later stage densely packed small black spots appear in the center of the lesions.

[Control] At the early stage of disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800-1000x solution, 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 600-800x solution, 50% thiophanate wettable powder 500-800x solution.

7. Red spider mite

[Damage] Red spider mites harm leaves. Adults and nymphs gather on the underside of leaves and pierce and suck plant sap. Gray-white small spots appear at the damaged areas, and in severe cases the entire leaf turns gray-white and finally dies.

[Control] Spray with 15% saomangjing wettable powder 1500x solution, or 73% propargite 2000x solution.

8. Aphids

[Damage] Aphids mainly occur in May, first harming leaves, then gradually piercing and sucking sap on flowers and flower buds. After being damaged, flower buds become thin and small and easily fall off.

[Control] Spray with malathion emulsion 1000-1500x solution or dimethoate solution. Fresh small chili peppers ground and mixed with water can be sprayed directly to kill them. In areas where daylily is eaten fresh, because fresh daylily is picked and sold directly every day, once aphids are found on flower buds, pesticides are strictly prohibited and biological control methods must be used.

Introduction to daylily seed planting methods

Introduction: There is an old saying among Chinese people, "my daylily has already gone cold." In this, daylily is actually a relatively common vegetable. Daylily is not only delicious, but also has many ways of preparation, and it looks very beautiful and has great ornamental value. Therefore, many people have always liked to eat daylily. But do you know how daylily seeds should be planted? How is daylily cultivated? Next, let's take a look with the editor at what the cultivation method of daylily seeds is actually like!