Hydrangea: How to Transition from Water Culture to Soil Culture
After hydrangeas have been grown in water for a long time, the leaves turn yellow and nutrients run short, so it is time to repot them. Below, the editor will show you how to transition a water-cultured hydrangea to soil culture.
Key requirements for transitioning water-cultured hydrangeas to soil culture
Water-cultured hydrangeas need to be grown for more than two months, and the root system must be fairly developed and robust before soil culture can be carried out.
Specific steps for transitioning water-cultured hydrangeas to soil culture
First place some material over the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot to prevent soil from leaking out.
2. Fill in part of the soil. The soil components include: pine needles, nutrient soil, river sand, perlite, garden soil, etc.
3. Add natural fertilizer. (You can use spoiled flowers made into dried flowers as natural fertilizer and put them into the pot; this not only allows water to drain but also improves soil aeration, and over time they can also become fertilizer.) This step can be omitted.
4. After the soil is filled, begin planting. Dig a small hole in the middle, not too deep, place the plant on the soil, and bury the roots well, but do not bury them too deep.
5. After planting, water thoroughly directly, then place it in a shady spot and observe for three to five days. If there are no problems, it can be cared for normally.
Water Culture Techniques for Flowers
Soilless Cultivation Methods for the Money Tree
The money tree has a graceful form, a majestic leaf crown, and emerald-green leaves. Placed in a family living room, it is both elegant and impressive, and very appealing.
The money tree is a perennial evergreen shrub native to the Malay Peninsula and the South Seas Islands area. In recent years, through cultivation and selection, it has been widely introduced into urban and rural households in our country. For home cultivation, based on its living habits of preferring high temperature and high humidity, and being intolerant of frost and dryness, attention should focus on grasping the following four points:
First, pay attention to sunlight. The money tree likes high temperatures, humidity, and sunlight, and cannot be shaded for long periods. Therefore, during care and management, it should be placed in a spot indoors with ample sunlight. When placing it, the leaf surfaces must face the sunlight. Otherwise, because the leaves grow toward the light, the entire branches and leaves will become twisted. In addition, every 3 to 5 days, spray water once onto the leaves with a spray bottle. This not only helps photosynthesis proceed but also makes the branches and leaves look more attractive.
Water Culture Methods for Catharanthus roseus
Apocynaceae, genus Catharanthus, also known as five-petal plum.
Biological characteristics: Catharanthus roseus is native to eastern Africa. It likes a warm, slightly dry, and sunny environment. The suitable growth temperature from March to July is 18-24°C, and from September to March of the following year is 13-18°C. The winter temperature should not be lower than 10°C.
Catharanthus roseus avoids wetness and fears waterlogging. The potting soil should not be watered too much; excessive moisture affects growth and development. Especially for plants overwintering indoors, watering should be strictly controlled, and it is better to keep them dry; otherwise, they are very prone to cold damage. For open-field cultivation, during heavy summer showers, pay attention to timely drainage to avoid waterlogging causing the entire patch to die.
Catharanthus roseus is a light-loving plant. During the growing period, it must have sufficient sunlight; then the leaves are dark green and glossy, and the flower colors are vivid. If grown in shade for a long time, the leaves turn yellow and drop.
It is suitable for fertile and well-drained loam and tolerates poor soil, but must absolutely avoid alkaline soil. Compacted, poorly aerated clay soil results in poor plant growth, yellow leaves, and no flowering.
Propagation methods: Commonly use sowing, cuttings, and propagation.
Cultivation management: When seedlings have 3 pairs of true leaves, transplant them into 10 cm pots, 3 plants per pot. When the seedlings are 7-8 cm tall, pinch once, and then pinch 2 more times afterward to encourage more branching and more flowering. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, or use 15-15-30 "Huiyou" special pot flower fertilizer. For potted plants or flower beds planted out of pots, flowering lasts from late May to early November, more than 5 months. During the flowering period, remove spent flowers at any time to prevent them from molding and affecting plant growth and ornamental value. August to October is the seed collection period for Catharanthus roseus; collect as they ripen to avoid seed loss.
Pest and disease control: Leaf rot, rust, and root-knot nematodes are common. For leaf rot, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 500 times dilution. For rust, spray with 50% carboxin wettable powder at 2000 times dilution. For root-knot nematodes, spray with 80% dichloropropane emulsifiable concentrate at 50 times dilution for control.
Water Culture Methods for Euphorbia tirucalli
Euphorbiaceae, genus Euphorbia, also known as triangular milkbush. Native to South Africa.
Characteristics
Euphorbia tirucalli is a perennial succulent plant. The stem is upright, 3-4 angled, dark green, with irregular beautiful gray-green markings in the center of the stem. The edges of the angles have tooth-like protrusions, and obovate leaves grow at the protrusions. It has many branches, all growing vertically upward, forming a unique plant shape. The whole plant contains irritating milky sap. Euphorbia tirucalli has a peculiar shape and rich exotic flavor, and is an excellent choice for tabletop greenery decoration.
Habits
Euphorbia tirucalli likes semi-shade but requires sufficient scattered light. It can tolerate low temperatures of 5 degrees. Euphorbia tirucalli likes dryness and avoids long periods of moisture, yet it is very suitable for water culture conditions.
Propagation
Euphorbia tirucalli is usually propagated by cuttings. From May to September, take branches about 10 cm long from the mother plant as cuttings. The cut cuttings should not be inserted immediately; inserting them immediately will cause the cut end to rot and lead to failure. The cut end of Euphorbia tirucalli will exude milky sap. When cutting, dip it in plant ash or carbon powder, and dry it in a cool place for several days. After the cut end is fully dry, then insert it for cuttings; it roots very easily.
Key points for water culture care
1: If mealybugs occur, besides moving it to a ventilated and well-lit place, you can brush off the mealybugs with a toothbrush and then spray with laundry detergent at 250 times dilution to kill them.
2: The white milky sap in the stem of Euphorbia tirucalli is toxic. Especially be careful not to get it into the eyes.
Methods for obtaining water culture material
Cuttings and root washing. Cut branches should first be dried in a cool, ventilated place for several days. After the cut end dries, then insert them into water; otherwise, they will rot. After one month, new roots can grow.
Water Culture Methods for Reineckea carnea
Reineckea carnea, also known as Guanyin grass, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant in the Liliaceae family, genus Reineckea. The leaves are clustered, broadly linear, with the midrib sunken and the tip gradually pointed, 15 to 40 cm long; the stem is creeping and rhizomatous, rooting at the nodes; the flowering period is September to October, the flowers are light purple, upright, in terminal spikes about 6 cm long; the fruit is bright red and spherical; it is native to the southwestern region of our country. It likes warm, humid environments, is relatively cold-tolerant and shade-tolerant, has low soil requirements, and is highly adaptable. Because Reineckea carnea has a graceful plant shape and verdant leaves, if we use its growth habits of cold tolerance and shade tolerance and place it in various goldfish tanks or other glass vessels for water culture, then place it on a bar counter or tea table, with water in the tank, stones in the water, and roots among the stones, clearly visible and mutually set off, it can serve as a refined and elegant work of art. Its cultivation methods are introduced below.
1. Material selection. Select plants with dark green leaves, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. Carefully dig them out of the soil with a shovel and wash the roots clean. During digging, be careful to dig as deep as possible and bring as much soil as possible. There are two purposes for this: first, to avoid damaging the roots, which is beneficial for growth in water culture; second, because water is transparent, intact roots can display a unique beauty in the water.
2. Pressing with stones. Choose cobblestones or Yuhua stones used for paving garden paths, wash them clean, first spread a layer on the bottom of the glass tank, place the Reineckea carnea upright on the stones, then use stones to press its roots firmly so it does not fall over, and pour clean water into the glass vessel until the entire root system is completely submerged. The transparency of the water determines that stone pressing should also have a certain aesthetic technique; the author can design it through their own creativity to highlight individuality.
3. Management. Because the roots of Reineckea carnea are soaked in water for a long time, the water easily develops an odor over time, so water should be changed frequently, preferably once a week. As for fertilizing, regularly drip a few drops of nutrient solution or potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution. Reineckea carnea is relatively shade-tolerant; 1 to 2 hours of fluorescent lamp exposure each evening can meet its photosynthesis needs.
Water Culture Methods for Cyclamen
Selecting cyclamen and containers: Choose 1-year-old to 3-year-old cyclamen plants that are free of pests and diseases, growing vigorously, and in bud. It is best to use soilless cultivation substrates such as perlite, vermiculite, and wood chips for cultivation, as they do not damage the roots after a change of environment, do not require a slow seedling recovery period, and adapt quickly. Water culture containers are simple and economical, and in daily life can serve to reuse waste. Any water-holding container such as a fish tank, teacup, beverage box, wine bottle, or vase will do; transparent containers are best, as roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits can all be fully viewed. No matter what container is used, its size, height, and color should all be coordinated with the cyclamen plant, so that the delicate, translucent, crystal-clear, and elegant charm of the water-cultured cyclamen can be displayed.
Water culture time and method: The flowering period of cyclamen is generally from October to June of the following year, so the water culture time is generally from September to April of the following year. Remove the selected cyclamen plant from its pot, wash the substrate adhering to the roots with 20°C warm water, and be careful not to damage the roots. Then place it directly into a previously prepared container, with the water depth level with the root zone, and at most not exceeding 1/3 of the corm, to avoid corm rot. Finally, place it in a suitable indoor location, add water regularly, and add nutrient solution. After two to three months of water culture, when the flowers fade, take the plant out and plant it in a cultivation substrate to spend the summer.
Water quality and water temperature: The water used for water-cultured cyclamen is best mountain spring water or magnetized water. The water quality is clean, not turbid, does not form sediment, and contains various trace elements essential for plants. During the entire water culture period, there is no need to change the water. Tap water contains chlorine, which is unfavorable for flower growth, and it easily becomes turbid and forms sediment, requiring water changes every few days, so it should be avoided as much as possible. The water temperature should be close to the indoor temperature at the time, generally 10°C to 20°C.
Light and indoor temperature: Cyclamen likes a sunny environment. The water culture container should be placed on a desktop or windowsill indoors with ample sunlight, and not directly on a radiator. The most suitable indoor temperature is 15°C to 20°C, with a maximum not exceeding 25°C and a minimum not lower than 10°C. Adding nutrient solution: Water-cultured cyclamen also needs regular nutrient supplementation during the flowering period. Generally, every 10 days add 50 ml of 1:100 diluted flowering plant nutrient solution per plant; mountain spring water should also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. If yellow leaves, small leaves, or small flowers are found, after ruling out root rot, more nutrient solution may be added as appropriate.
Water Culture of Arrhenatherum elatius 'Variegatum'
Chinese name: Libang grass
Alias: silver-edge grass
Family and genus name: Poaceae
Latin scientific name: Arrhenatherumelatius
Characteristics: perennial herb
Plant height: 50-100 cm tall
Flowering period: summer (June-August)
Cold tolerance: cold-tolerant (above -5°C)
Shade tolerance: sun-loving
Morphological characteristics: underground stems white and bead-like; aboveground stems clustered and smooth. Leaves clustered, linear-lanceolate, 30 cm long, about 1 cm wide, with yellow-white edges. Panicle with long stalks, about 50 cm, branched; spikelets with two flowers, the upper flower bisexual or female, the lower one male; flowering period June-July. Native to Europe.
Habits: Extremely robust, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, not selective about soil. At the height of summer, the aboveground part often withers and goes dormant, then sprouts and grows again in early September.
Propagation and cultivation: Usually divide clumps once every 2-3 years, in spring from March to April or in September after dormancy when new leaves first emerge. Dig up the old plant and separate it; each division should preferably have 2-3 new shoots and be separated together with the bead-like underground stems. Old plants should be pruned carefully every year; leaves should not be too long, and when the underground stems are exposed, soil should be mounded promptly, so the clumps remain vigorous and graceful. During cultivation, if too much fertilizer is applied or there is a prolonged lack of fertilizer, the white spots on the leaves will disappear and they will turn entirely green, affecting the ornamental effect.
Water Culture Methods for Schefflera arboricola~~~~~
Dracaena water culture: Plants for water culture of Dracaena can be obtained by referring to the propagation methods above, or directly from soil culture. The specific methods are as follows:
Root-viewing water culture: One week before cultivation, sterilize and disinsectize them, and select plants with good appearance for cultivation. If water culture is carried out according to the cuttings method above (for those using soil-cultured material, remove the roots and carry out rapid propagation to force rooting), it is best to first place the planting basket into it. When the roots have grown 5—6 cm long and have not reverted to land growth, place them into the mutation pool for mutation. At the beginning, the nutrient solution concentration should be lower. After the plant adapts to the aquatic growth environment, the concentration can be increased according to the plant, while also reducing aeration, and finally stopping aeration. When the roots have grown enough to be bottled, they can be put into bottles!
Ceramsite planting: Root forcing before potting is the same as for water culture. When potting, do not plant the plant too low, as that is not good for the plant's later growth. When the plant's root system grows out of the inner planting pot, it can be sold.
During the production period, apply a fungicide once a week and spray foliar fertilizer once. For home care, in addition to referring to the product instructions, you should also follow its growth habits: stop fertilizing during the dormant season, place it in a spot with strong sunlight. For ceramsite planting, use less water in winter and early spring. If placed in a dark place for too long, the leaves turn yellow and lose vitality, and the tips of the basal leaves easily turn black, as if scalded by boiling water. Do not let it lack water during the growing season.
Dracaena marginata 'Tricolor' aliases: three-color edged dragon tree, rainbow dragon tree, striped cordyline
Family and genus: Agavaceae, Dracaena genus
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen small tree. Stem slender, upright and straight, up to 3 m tall. Leaves 15-60 cm long, 1-2 cm wide, sword-shaped. The green leaves have creamy white, yellow-white, and red stripes. It is a unique variety in the Dracaena genus.
Distribution and habits: Native to Madagascar.
It likes a warm, humid environment with bright scattered light. It is relatively shade-tolerant and avoids direct strong light. The suitable growth temperature is 18-28 degrees. The overwintering temperature must be above 10 degrees.
Propagation method: cuttings
Key points for water culture:
1) Water culture by water cuttings makes rooting easy, and the water roots are white and highly ornamental. Changing the water is the key to success. Especially just after inserting, changing the water once every other day can increase its oxygen content, until the root system grows. After it adapts to water culture, you can change or add water once a week or once a month depending on the season.
2) When the summer water temperature is above 35 degrees, the root system easily rots. At this time, stop using nutrient solution and only use clean water for cultivation, and increase the frequency of water changes to keep the water quality clear.
3) Place it in a bright indoor location. Generally, in autumn and winter, change the water once a month. If using a transparent container for water culture, while changing the water, wipe off the substances attached to the vessel with a soft cloth to make it transparent, so that the beauty of the plant's root system can be better displayed. After changing the water, you can drip a few drops of commercially sold nutrient solution into the water or add some potassium dihydrogen phosphate diluted 1000 times, to supply the nutrients needed for plant growth. If foliar fertilizer or 1000-times potassium dihydrogen phosphate is sprayed as a foliar top dressing during the growing season, it can grow thicker and stronger.
Can remove: toluene, xylene, benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde
Water Culture Methods for Sansevieria
Sansevieria is a perennial herb with creeping rhizomes. Leaves are clustered, usually 2-6 in a bundle, upright, leathery, thick and fleshy, with a short tip at the apex, dark green, with light gray-green horizontal bands, named because the markings resemble tiger skin. Height exceeds 80 cm, width 3-7 cm. It flowers in spring and summer, with spike inflorescences, small flowers in clusters of 3-8, white or pale green, fragrant.
Sansevieria likes a warm climate. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. It is not cold-tolerant and stops growing below 13 degrees. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 8 degrees. When the temperature is too low, it often rots from the base, causing the death of the entire plant.
Sansevieria likes light, but in summer direct scorching sunlight should be prevented. It is very shade-tolerant and can be displayed in shaded places for a long time.
Sansevieria is a desert plant and can endure harsh environmental conditions.
Propagation is usually by division. Division is usually carried out in spring and autumn together with repotting. Remove the plant from the pot, use a sharp knife to separate the daughter plants from the mother plant, trying to avoid damaging the root system, and let the separated daughter plants carry as many roots as possible. After separation, the daughter plants should be placed in a dark indoor place, protected from rain, and watering should be controlled to avoid rot at the cut. Only after new leaves grow can they be transferred to normal care.
For mass propagation of Sansevieria, cuttings can be used. Cuttings are carried out from May to July. Select robust and plump leaves, cut them into 5-7 cm segments; whole-leaf cuttings can also be used. The cut leaves should be placed in a dry, cool place for several days. After the cut ends dry, insert them vertically or obliquely into the medium, with the insertion depth being 1/3 or 1/2 of the segment length, and water thoroughly once after insertion. When taking cuttings, remember the upper and lower orientation of the cuttings; if inserted upside down, they will not root. Under conditions of 15-20 degrees, in about one month they will root from the base or grow rhizomes, and gradually grow into new plants. When the young seedlings grow 2-3 leaves, they can be potted for final planting.
Do not add too much water and soak all the roots; let a small section of root remain exposed above the water surface so it can absorb oxygen. After water-culture roots have grown, you can add a little less nutrient solution~~~~In summer, change the water once every three or four days; in winter, once every six or seven days~~~depending on how cloudy the water is~~~~~~~Generally, woody flowers are harder to water-culture, so you must be patient~~~~~~~~
Key points for water culture of Hydrangea macrophylla
Scientific name: Hydrangeamacrophylla
Aliases: hydrangea, douqiu, shade hydrangea, grass hydrangea, ziyang flower
Family and genus: Saxifragaceae, Hydrangea genus
Plant characteristics: Hydrangea macrophylla is native to the Yangtze River basin and provinces south of it in our country. The natural plant height is 1 to 2 m, and the potted height is mostly controlled at 30 to 50 cm. Leaves opposite, obovate or elliptic, with serrated edges. Corymb terminal, 20 cm in diameter, nearly spherical; fertile flowers few and small, sterile flowers numerous and large. Flower color varies greatly, initially white, gradually turning blue or pink. The natural flowering period is May to July. It is a deciduous small shrub with emerald-green leaves, vivid flower colors, and a long ornamental period, and is deeply loved by people.
Ecological habits: Hydrangea macrophylla likes a warm and humid environment. The suitable growth temperature is 18°C to 28°C, and in winter not lower than 5°C. Light should be semi-shade; if too strong, the leaves will be scorched and curled at the edges. It likes loose and fertile soil and has a high water demand, but avoids waterlogging. It has relatively strong resistance to harmful gases such as sulfur dioxide.
Common cultivated varieties: Hydrangea macrophylla (V. hortensica): flowers all sterile, sepals ovate. Blue-edged hydrangea (V. coerulea Wils): flowers bisexual, dark blue, marginal flowers blue or white. Ziyang flower (V. otaksa Bailey): flowers sterile, inflorescence large, diameter up to 20 cm, leaves thick, inflorescence spherical, blue or pale red, mostly used in gardens. Silver hydrangea (V. maculata Wils): divided into fertile and sterile types, leaves relatively narrow and small, with white edges, used for viewing leaves.
Propagation methods: Hydrangea macrophylla can be propagated by division, layering, cuttings, and other methods.
In a greenhouse, cuttings can be taken throughout the year. Generally in May to June, carried out in combination with early spring pruning and post-flowering shaping. Select semi-lignified branches free of pests and diseases, each segment 10 to 15 cm long, retain 2 to 3 nodes and 1 to 2 leaves at the top, and insert them into a seedbed with river sand or vermiculite as the substrate, with appropriate shading. Keep the substrate moist and the air humidity above 80%; rooting begins in about 18 days. Afterward, gradually reduce the frequency of misting and increase light, and in about 1 month they can be transplanted.
Cultivation management: After the cutting seedlings root, they should be potted promptly. Hydrangea macrophylla likes loose, fertile, well-drained soil. Usually use leaf mold, garden soil, and organic fertilizer mixed in a 4:4:2 ratio. For large-scale production, it is better to use peat, perlite, and organic fertilizer mixed in a 6:2:2 ratio, and disinfect thoroughly before use.
Fertilizing: Hydrangea macrophylla likes fertilizer. Generally, apply organic fertilizer once every half month. In the early growth stage, use more nitrogen fertilizer; during flower bud differentiation and bud formation, use more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. You can also spray the leaves with 0.1% to 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate 2 to 3 times. Stop fertilizing after the buds show color.
Watering: The transpiration of Hydrangea macrophylla leaves is very high, so it must be watered promptly. Even short-term wilting due to lack of water can cause dry leaf edges and necrotic flowers. Especially in summer, shade and cooling must be used to reduce transpiration, and air humidity should be kept above 60%. In addition, the flower color of Hydrangea macrophylla is affected by soil pH. It is usually blue in an acidic environment and red in an alkaline environment. Therefore, the pH of the water should be determined according to the desired flower color.
Temperature: Hydrangea macrophylla is not tolerant of high temperatures and requires a temperature between 15°C and 25°C. High temperatures will make the plant dwarfed, fade the flower color, and reduce quality. After the buds show color, keep the temperature at 10°C to 12°C to improve flower color and preserve freshness.
Light: Hydrangea macrophylla is shade-tolerant. Direct sunlight can cause sunscald, so shading is needed. Usually during the growing period, 60% shading is required. After the inflorescence shows color, appropriate shading should also be provided to avoid the flower color fading and losing its brilliance.
Pruning: Hydrangea macrophylla has strong sprouting ability. Many vegetative branches will sprout from the base of the plant. To reduce nutrient consumption, remove them promptly. If old branches need to be replaced, select robust vegetative branches as reserve branches. After flowering, cut back promptly, retaining 2 to 3 robust buds to promote new branches.
Flowering regulation: To make Hydrangea macrophylla bloom at Spring Festival, select robust plants 3 to 5 years old, treat them at low temperature of 2°C to 4°C for 14 days, then move them into a greenhouse for heating, maintaining 10°C to 20°C, and they can bloom in 50 to 60 days. Pay attention to frequent ventilation, maintain good light conditions and relatively high air humidity, and apply organic liquid fertilizer once every half month until flowering.
Pest and disease control: Hydrangea macrophylla has few insect pests, mostly aphids, spider mites, etc. While ensuring good ventilation, spray systemic pesticides for control. Common diseases are mostly leaf diseases, such as white rot, gray mold, and leaf spot. Therefore, spray pesticides regularly for prevention; after symptoms are found, spray pesticides promptly, and severely diseased leaves can be removed and burned.
Introduction to Crassula arborescens
[Aliases] Sedum tree, swallow palm, jade tree, air plant.
[Scientific name] Crassulaarborescens
[Family and genus] Crassulaceae, genus Crassula.
[Morphology] Evergreen succulent plant, plant height 45-75 cm, stem semi-lignified. Single leaves opposite, thick and fleshy, broadly elliptic, entire, 3-5 cm long, 1-3 cm wide, dark green and glossy; after exposure to light, the leaf edges turn red. Horticultural varieties include variegated-leaf and colorful-leaf types.
[Habits] Native to South Africa. Likes warmth, tolerates drought, likes light, and also tolerates semi-shade, growing best under bright scattered light. Likes fertile, loose, well-drained and breathable sandy loam.
[Propagation] Cutting propagation. Both stem cuttings and leaf cuttings root easily, and water cuttings can also survive. The cutting time is from May to September. Take a 5-10 cm branch or 1 leaf and insert it into plain sandy soil, taking care to maintain moisture; roots can develop after one week.
[Cultivation] Use 2 parts garden soil, 1 part leaf mold, plus an appropriate amount of river sand to make the potting mixture. After potting, water the young plants thoroughly and place them in a shaded place. After they survive, place them in a bright place, but do not let direct sunlight hit them. In summer, pay attention to coolness and ventilation. To make the plant shape full and compact, fertilizer and water should not be too heavy at ordinary times, and the potting soil should alternate between dry and moist. In late autumn, bring it indoors for warmth, and the room temperature should be above 7°C. In winter, do not water too much. Repot and change the soil once every spring.
Although Crassula arborescens is easy to propagate, easy to plant, and easy to manage, it is still common to see some residents' balcony plants looking elegant in spring, summer, and autumn, only to become wilted and colorless after winter, or even become a "bare chicken." This is mainly because growers only see the easy-to-cultivate side of Crassula arborescens and ignore its fragile side. After entering severe cold, they still place it on an open balcony and let it suffer cold wind and freezing invasion, causing cold damage. After cold damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of Crassula arborescens begin to show wounds as if scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften, shrivel, and finally fall off. In severe cases, only the bare main stem remains.
Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering balcony-potted Crassula arborescens is very important. The following aspects should mainly be addressed:
1. Move the pot indoors in time. After entering winter, move Crassula arborescens to an indoor place that can maintain 7°C to 10°C for warmth. On warmer days, around noon, you can move it to the balcony to bathe in sunlight, and still move it indoors at night.
2. Control the dryness and moisture of the potting soil. In winter, the potting soil should mainly be kept slightly dry, and fine mist should be sprayed on the leaves at appropriate times to supplement water. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.
3. Move it into a warm shed for warmth. If conditions permit, the pot can be moved into a warm shed; if not, plastic film can also be used to cover it. However, pay attention to the humidity inside the cover. If excessive moisture is found, uncover it promptly for ventilation to prevent leaf rot.
4. If, due to earlier mistakes in cold protection measures, Crassula arborescens has already suffered cold damage, do not easily discard the plant. As long as the frost-killed leaves and tender branches are removed and the plump main stem is preserved, and fertilizer is applied appropriately the following spring, new branches and leaves can still sprout from the main stem. Generally, after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can develop into a perfect Crassula arborescens again.
Water culture of Crassula arborescens:
You can choose to cut branches from the mother plant of Crassula arborescens in spring, summer, or autumn for cuttings. One week before cutting, sterilize, disinfect, and disinsectize. After the branches are inserted, keep the substrate at a certain moisture level; at the beginning, misting and shading are needed. After callus tissue grows below, reduce misting or stop misting, otherwise leaves easily drop and rot. After roots grow 2-3 cm, they can be placed on a water culture seedling bed for water culture root forcing.
[Uses] Indoor decoration, suitable for embellishing halls. Appendix: A foliage plant of the same genus, Swallow palm, alias thick-leaf sedum (Crassulaportulacea), leaves obovate, cultivation method the same as Crassula arborescens.
Water culture is also possible without adding nutrient solution~~~For example, spider plants grow very well without nutrient solution~ You can also put two compound fertilizer granules in~~~~~Or soak nutrient soil in water, take the clear liquid on top, and that can also serve as nutrient solution~~~~~Nutrient solution can be bought at flower shops~~~~~~~~~~
Hydroponic watermelon peel must be done in spring and autumn; in winter it will definitely die. The leaves of watermelon peel are best inserted in soil; for hydroponics, choose ones with roots. At the beginning, change the water frequently, and after roots grow you can add nutrient solution~~~~~~~~~~~~
My parlor palm has already grown very well, thanks to the original poster! I am a lazy person, and there is another way to reduce the number of water changes: just add 3 drops of Amway Loxin to the water. It is very effective, but each bottle has a different amount of water, so everyone should start with a small amount and figure it out slowly.
Hydroponic fleeceflower root
Let me pour some cold water on this:
1. Not all flowers can be grown hydroponically
2. It is not hydroponics just to wash the roots of originally soil-grown flowers and put them in water, and not all of them will survive
3. Raising fish in the water and flower roots compete for oxygen, hurting both sides. Fish excrement quickly spoils the water, easily causing root rot and fish disease. It is only an advertising effect.
4. Light passing through the glass bottle causes algae to grow, competing for oxygen, covering the surface of the flower roots and suffocating the roots
5. Fibrous roots squeezed together in water easily suffer from lack of oxygen, turn black, and die.
Hydroponic peace lily
Let me also talk about the production process of hydroponic products at my base:
Select superior mother plants——remove from pots and rinse roots——cut roots or cut the base——disinfect and treat for rooting——plant in planting cups (expanded clay planting)——promote rooting in a rooting bed——induce mutation in a hydroponic bed——harden seedlings for sale (management during this period is computer-assisted)
True hydroponic flowers are not as simple as washing roots and soaking them in water. The cultivation process of hydroponic flowers is very complex. It must go through a series of processes such as washing roots---trimming roots----disinfection----planting----promoting rooting----inducing roots, and the time required ranges from 10 to 20 days to half a year.
Hydroponic tulip Tulip: How to grow hydroponic tulips
Inthe Netherlands, the emergence of hydroponic tulips was linked to a historical event. Because people's demand for hydroponic tulips continued to grow, in 1988 the Dutch government issued a bill on plant protection, and from then on hydroponic tulips embarked on a formal path. By early 2002, hydroponic tulips in the Netherlands had reached 40% of total production, showing the market value and profit space of hydroponic tulips. How are hydroponic tulips done? Come and learn how to grow hydroponic tulips.
[Recommended reading] Lily, Kalanchoe, Globe amaranth, Gardenia, Clivia, Guzmania, Balloon flower, Mulberry, Winter jasmine, Mimosa
Tulip: How to grow hydroponic tulips
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[Plant profile]
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Chinese name:Tulip
Scientific name:Tulipa gesneriana
Aliases:Foreign lotus, dry lotus, grass musk, tulip fragrance, red-blue flower, purple fragrant
Family:Liliaceae Liliaceae
Genus:Tulipa Tulipa
Origin and distribution:Native from southern Europe and western Asia all the way to Northeast China in East Asia
Morphological characteristics:Perennial herbaceous plant. Leaves long elliptic-lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate. Flower stem 6-10cm tall, flower solitary at the top of the stem, large and upright, forest-like, base often dark purple. Tepals obovate, bright yellow or purplish red, with yellow stripes and spots. Flower colors include white, pink, carmine, purple, brown, yellow, orange, etc., in varying shades, single-colored or bicolored. Flower shapes include cup-shaped, ovate, bell-shaped, bowl-shaped, spherical, funnel-shaped, lily-flowered, etc., with single or double petals. The flowering period is generally March-May, with early, middle, and late types.
How to grow hydroponic tulips
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▲Bulb selection: Hydroponic tulips require cold treatment of the bulbs. The method is: before the end of October, control the temperature at 9°C, then gradually lower it, and from December to January keep the temperature at about 2°C and humidity at 85-95%. Tulip bulbs need to be tightly wrapped by scales, undamaged, and harvested relatively late. Otherwise, it will cause the plant to become shorter, weight to decrease, roots to turn yellow, failure to bloom, bulb cracking, etc.
▲Planting method: When planting, press the tulip bulbs down so that they pierce onto the pins of the hydroponic planting tray. In order to protect the central flower bud from damage, the part where the pin pierces the bulb should be the surrounding part of the bulb. Remove bulbs showing symptoms of infection, and immediately add water to the planting tray after planting.
▲Nutrient liquid: Place the planting tray in a rooting room at 5°C with a small amount of air flow. Replenish water as needed. Tap water or rainwater with a conductivity value of 1.5ms/cm can be used. For varieties prone to leaf cracking, water with a conductivity value of 2ms/cm should be used during the rooting stage.
▲Care: When tulip roots grow to 4cm, place the planting tray on a relatively flat ground in the greenhouse and remove diseased bulbs or those that have not sprouted. At this stage, ensure the water level reaches the overflow outlet, keep the temperature at 16-18°C, and maintain humidity at 60-80%. At the end of planting, the number of waterings can be reduced to half of the previous amount. Before harvest, sufficient water should be provided to the plants, which can extend the tulip flowering period.
"Conclusion:The market prospects for hydroponic tulips are very broad, and the selling price is naturally high, so if you learn a skilled hydroponic tulip gardening technique, you can be self-sufficient in tulip materials for your home.
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