How to grow tulips? Bulb planting methods and care management key points
Tulips are perennial bulbous flowers of the genus Tulipa in the lily family (Liliaceae). Everyone is familiar with them; they generally form overall blocks of color for people to admire. Medium and dwarf tulip varieties can be grown in pots. Because of their elegant appearance and pure flower colors, they are deeply loved by people and are an important early-spring ornamental garden flower. But many people do not know how to grow tulips. Let us take a look together below!
How to select tulip bulbs
1. Choose pure varieties, large bulbs free of pest and disease damage and without injury, because bulbs are required to have a circumference of more than 8 cm; 6 cm bulbs will not bloom, and 6-8 cm bulbs have no guarantee of blooming. Bulbs can be divided into four grades by circumference: grade one is above 12 cm (diameter above 3.8 cm), grade two is 11-12 cm (3.5-3.8 cm), grade three is 10-11 cm (3.2-3.5 cm), and below 10 cm (below 3.2 cm) is substandard.
2. Dark-skinned bulbs are red varieties, while light-colored ones are pale yellow or white. You should also ask clearly whether they are imported bulbs or domestically produced bulbs, and whether they are room-temperature bulbs or low-temperature bulbs. Room-temperature bulbs are bulbs that have not undergone low-temperature treatment; after planting, they go through a natural low-temperature period, and the flowering period is from mid-to-late March to early April.
Tulip bulb planting methods
1. Low-temperature treatment: Place the bulbs in a refrigerator at 4°C-9°C for refrigeration, then take them out to plant after two months, or plant them directly in pots and place them in the refrigerator. Prepare a flower box about 70 cm long or a 5-inch flower pot.
2. Soil selection: It is best to use peat soil entirely.
3. Planting density: A long flower box can hold two rows of five bulbs each, planted with a spacing of 8 cm between each bulb, while a 5-inch pot can hold three bulbs.
4. Planting method: When planting, place the pointed part of the bulb facing upward and the flatter side facing the same direction, so the leaves will grow in a neat direction and the leaves will also be more attractive. After planting the bulbs, cover the surface with soil and level it. Use slow-release fertilizers such as Osmocote and Magamp as base fertilizer, and water thoroughly.
Tulip care and management methods
1. Soil: Tulips require planting soil that both retains water and is breathable, with salinity that is not too high and not too acidic. The pH value should be no less than 6. Using a mix of peat, decomposed soil and sand at 1:1:1 as the growing medium gives better results.
2. Sunlight: Sufficient sunlight exposure is essential for tulip growth. Insufficient light will cause poor plant growth, flower bud drop, weak plants, lighter leaf color and a shortened flowering period. However, within more than half a month after tulips are potted, they should be properly shaded to help the bulbs develop new roots. In addition, during germination, the elongation of flower buds is inhibited by light; after shading, it can promote flower bud elongation and prevent excessive vegetative growth in the early stage and spindly growth. After emergence, light should be increased to promote stem elongation, flower bud formation and coloring. In the later stage, after the flower buds are fully colored, direct sunlight should be prevented to prolong the flowering time.
3. Temperature: Tulips like warm winters and cool summers, with an optimum growth temperature of 9-13°C. They are highly cold-tolerant and can withstand low temperatures of -35°C in winter.
4. Watering: After planting, water thoroughly so that the soil and bulbs can fully bind closely together, which helps rooting. After budding, water should be appropriately controlled. When the leaves gradually extend, water can be sprayed on the leaf surface to increase air humidity. During the flower stalk emergence stage and bud stage, a sufficient water supply must be ensured to promote full flower development. After flowering, appropriately control water.
5. Fertilization: Tulips do not have high fertilizer requirements. If growth vigor is weak, some nitrogen fertilizer can be applied. After the root system develops well, apply 2 kg of calcium nitrate per 100 sq m, divided into three broadcast applications, with each interval longer than one week.
6. Pests and diseases: The pathogens of tulip pests and diseases can be carried by bulbs and can also infect bulbs through the soil. They mostly occur in high-temperature and high-humidity environments. The main diseases include stem rot, soft rot, breaking virus disease, damping-off, and blind buds, while the main pest is aphids. Fully disinfect the soil before planting, choose virus-free bulbs for cultivation as much as possible, promptly dig out and destroy diseased plants when found, and apply fungicide 1-2 times during greenhouse growth for better results; maintain good ventilation to prevent high temperature and high humidity; when aphids occur, they can be sprayed and killed with 3% natural pyrethrin at 800 times dilution.
Tulip care methods. How to plant tulips? How to grow tulips?
Tulips are also known as foreign lotus and grass musk. The flowering period is March-May. The flowers are cup-shaped, solitary at the top of the branches, opening during the day and closing in the evening. There are many horticultural cultivars, and flower colors and shapes vary by cultivar. They like a cool and humid climate and sufficient light. The optimum growth temperature is 15-25°C. Tulips are brightly colored and dazzling. For pot cultivation, dwarf varieties should be chosen. When blooming, they can be moved indoors for viewing and placed on windowsills, desks, dining tables or coffee tables. They can also be cut when blooming and placed in indoor vases for viewing.
1. Soil selection for tulip cultivation
The soil should be deep sandy loam or clay loam, with the groundwater level at 55-70 cm, pH at 6.5-7.0, and a plow layer of 20-25 cm. The soil must be deeply plowed before planting. Loose soil is conducive to young buds emerging from the soil and to good root system and seedling growth. Compacted and heavy clay soil makes it difficult for young buds to emerge, consumes too many nutrients, results in a low bulb germination rate, small and uneven plant flowering, and makes it difficult to dig out the bulbs.
2. Fertilization methods for tulip cultivation
During the growth of tulips and the swelling of bulbs, sufficient fertilizer is needed. In the Yangtze River Delta area, loose and fertile manure, decomposed garbage fertilizer, various cake fertilizers and bone meal are commonly used for fertilization. In early spring, from stem and leaf expansion to budding, topdressing is needed 2-3 times. For potted tulips grown in greenhouses, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied.
Tulips are very sensitive to fertilizer. If nitrogen fertilizer is insufficient, daughter bulbs decrease, leaves are small and poor in quality, flower stems shorten, flowers are small, the flowering period is delayed, and most small bulbs grow only 1 small leaf. Conversely, when nitrogen fertilizer is sufficient, the propagation coefficient increases noticeably. Applying phosphate fertilizer alone has no obvious effect, but if it is mixed with potassium fertilizer, it will greatly promote flower stem development. When nitrogen fertilizer is mixed with potassium fertilizer, the number of medium-sized bulbs increases. Attention should be paid to starting from rooting; the better the root system develops, the higher the absorption and utilization rate of nutrients, and the stronger and better developed the tulips will be.
3. Watering methods for tulip cultivation
Tulips like sandy loam or clay loam with good drainage and a not-too-high groundwater level. Tulips should not be planted in silted beach land and areas with a high groundwater level. If they must be planted, drainage ditches should be dug to lower the groundwater level, lowering the groundwater level by 40-60 cm in heavy clay soil and by 100-140 cm in light sandy loam, or adopt raised-bed cultivation. In low-lying waterlogged land, the mother bulb is prone to rot disease in autumn, and the mother bulb is prone to freezing to death in winter.
Before planting, regulate soil moisture; it should be neither dry nor wet, maintaining a certain humidity. During the growing period, watering is generally unnecessary; keeping the soil moist is enough. In dry weather, water moderately 1-2 times, with a wetting depth of 15 cm.
4. Temperature requirements for tulip cultivation
Throughout the entire growth process, tulips like cool conditions and fear high temperatures. Their growth temperature range is 8-16°C. Under natural conditions, in mid-to-late September, when the temperature is 15-25°C, tulip bulbs begin to root. At this time, stored bulbs must be kept at 9°C to prevent continued rooting from the basal plate of the bulb. Planting is generally carried out from late October to late November.
In northern regions, when the winter temperature is 1-3°C and the soil temperature is 5-7°C (slightly higher in southern regions), the root system on the bulbs continues to grow, but the speed slows significantly, and young buds overwinter underground without emerging. In this way, tulips in open fields pass through exactly a 70-90 day low-temperature stage of 5-9°C. If the winter temperature is relatively high and the low temperature is insufficient, tulip growth is noticeably poor and the flowers become smaller.
In late February of the following year, when the temperature rises to 8-10°C, young buds begin to emerge from the soil. In mid-March, when the temperature is 10-14°C, seedlings unfold leaves and gradually enter the vigorous stem and leaf growth period. At this time, if the temperature is higher than 20°C, it will inhibit root system development.
5. Light requirements for tulip cultivation
Tulips are long-day plants and like a sunny, sufficient environment. Light is an important limiting factor for tulip flowering. During cultivation, tulips must receive no less than 8 hours of light each day, which helps tulips accumulate more photosynthetic products, ensures good plant growth, and ensures normal flowering.
Although tulips like light, when in a sunlight greenhouse or when spring sunlight is strong in open fields, appropriate shading should be provided. A single tulip flower generally blooms for 5-6 days. With low temperature, high humidity and cloudy days, the flowering period can be extended to 10-14 days. If tulips receive overly strong sunlight, the flowers will fully open and the best viewing period will be noticeably shortened, sometimes to only 3-5 days. If sunlight is seriously insufficient, it will also shorten the flowering period, make flower stems thin, weak and short, and make flower colors pale, losing their proper ornamental value, and may even cause abnormal bulb development and degeneration. After bulbs are harvested, they should be placed in a dry, ventilated place to dry in the shade, and must never be exposed to the sun.
The above are the tulip planting methods provided to everyone by Duorou Huapu. We hope they can be helpful to everyone. Welcome to continue following Duorou Huapu to learn more common knowledge about tulip care!
How to grow hydroponic tulips: hydroponic tulip cultivation methods
Tulips are herbaceous plants of the genus Tulipa in the lily family (Liliaceae) and are the national flowers of Turkey, Kazakhstan and the Netherlands. The flowers are solitary at the top, large and gorgeous, with tepals red or mixed with white and yellow, sometimes white or yellow. They are one of the more popular flowers now. Let us learn below about how to grow hydroponic tulips and hydroponic tulip cultivation methods.
Tulip introduction
Chinese name: tulip
Scientific name: Tulipa gesneriana
Aliases: foreign lotus, dry lotus, grass musk, tulip fragrance, red and blue flower, purple herb fragrance
Family: Liliaceae
Genus: Tulipa
Origin and distribution: native from southern Europe and western Asia all the way to Northeast China in East Asia
Morphological characteristics: perennial herbaceous plant. Leaves are long elliptic-lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate. The flower stem is 6-10 cm tall, and the flower is solitary at the top of the stem, large, upright, forest-like, and often dark purple at the base. The tepals are obovate, bright yellow or purplish red, with yellow stripes and spots. Flower colors include white, pink, carmine, purple, brown, yellow, orange, etc., in varying shades, single-colored or bicolored. Flower shapes include cup-shaped, ovate, bell-shaped, bowl-shaped, spherical, funnel-shaped, lily-flowered, etc., with single and double forms. The flowering period is generally March-May, with early, middle and late types.
How to grow hydroponic tulips
1. Bulb selection: Hydroponic tulips require cold treatment of the bulbs. The method is: before the end of October, control the temperature at 9°C, then gradually lower it, and from December to January keep the temperature at about 2°C with humidity at 85-95%. Tulip bulbs need to be tightly wrapped by scales, undamaged, and harvested relatively late. Otherwise, it will cause plants to become shorter, weight to decrease, roots to turn yellow, failure to bloom, bulb splitting, and so on.
2. Planting method:
① According to the required flowering time, choose and determine the cultivation time and planting method. For hydroponic cut flower cultivation, bulbs should be planted in disinfected and leak-proof pin trays, keeping the rooting temperature stable at 8°C and humidity between 60%-70%.
② After about two weeks of rooting, ensure the roots are more than 3 cm long, then move the pin trays to the greenhouse. The relevant greenhouse conditions are: humidity at 60%-70%, adding nutrient solution so that the Ec value in the water is 1.5 ms to 2.0 ms, and temperature controlled at 15-20°C. Such values favor rapid tulip growth.
③ The early growth stage is very prone to disease, so in the early growth stage, to prevent diseases caused by filamentous fungi, spray pesticide 2 to 3 times. Choose low-toxicity thiophanate, highly effective chlorothalonil, Tuzet, etc., with concentration between 750-1000 times.
④ Spray foliar fertilizer in a timely manner according to growth conditions to coordinate vegetative growth and reproductive growth. During growth, due to root secretions and other environmental conditions, an oil film will form on the water surface of the pin tray, which will cause the root system to lack nutrient supply and turn brown. Therefore, change the water 2 to 3 times as appropriate.
3. Nutrient liquid: Place the planting tray in a rooting room at 5°C with a small amount of air flow, and replenish water in a timely manner. Tap water or rainwater with a conductivity value of 1.5 ms/cm can be used. For varieties prone to leaf cracking, water with a conductivity value of 2 ms/cm should be used during the rooting stage.
4. Care: When tulip roots grow to 4 cm, place the planting tray on a relatively flat ground in the greenhouse and remove diseased bulbs or bulbs that have not germinated. At this stage, ensure the water level reaches the overflow outlet, keep the temperature at 16-18°C, and maintain humidity at 60-80%. At the end of planting, the number of waterings can be reduced to half of the previous amount. Before harvest, sufficient water should be provided to the plants, which can prolong the tulip flowering period.
The market prospects for hydroponic tulips are very broad, and the selling price is naturally high. Therefore, if you learn excellent hydroponic tulip gardening techniques, you can be self-sufficient in tulip materials for your home.
Tulip pot cultivation techniques and potted care
Tulips can be planted in the ground or in pots. For cultivation time, both planting methods can be carried out in late October.
For ground planting, the plant and row spacing is 14-16 cm, with sufficient base fertilizer applied, a soil covering depth of about 4 cm, and a ditch depth of 15-20 cm, then water after planting. Before and after germination and flowering, apply 2-4 times of light fertilizer.
For pot cultivation, choose plump and large bulbs. A 30 cm flower pot can hold 3-5 bulbs. The top of the bulb should be level with the soil surface. After planting in autumn, bury the pot in the soil, then dig it out in spring and place it in a sunny, well-ventilated place. With normal watering and fertilization, it can bloom on time.
Cultivation experience
It requires growth in sandy loam with good drainage and rich in humus. A small amount of decomposed manure and bone meal can be mixed in as base fertilizer.
It likes cool conditions but has strong adaptability. It can face wet and cold winters and also adapt to dry and hot summers, but over-summering should not exceed 27°C. If the temperature is too high, leaves will grow spindly, the leaf-to-flower ratio will become unbalanced, and flowering will be poor; the optimum growth temperature is 15-20°C, and it can grow normally above 8°C, but it can also tolerate a low temperature of -14°C.
During the growing period, it is generally enough to keep it moist. Apart from moderate watering during drought, large amounts of watering are generally unnecessary; in winter it mainly grows roots and grows slowly, so it may not be watered or only very little; spring is the vigorous growth period for flower buds and leaves, so moderate watering can be given; after flowers fade, the main focus is bulb growth, so water should be appropriately controlled.
Only with sufficient light can the flowers bloom well and the ornamental period be extended. Insufficient light will result in insufficient opening or even closed flowers that do not open.
During important growth periods such as after emergence, during flower bud formation, and after flowering, topdressing should be carried out. Diluted liquids such as sesame paste residue, horse hoof water and ferrous sulfate can all promote growth. Do not use urea for topdressing.
If the purpose is to grow bulbs, once the flower buds show color, they should be removed immediately to avoid consuming nutrients; if the purpose is cut flower production, they can be cut off only when the flower buds have completely changed color.
If patterns appear on the flowers, it is caused by viral infection. They should be immediately dug out and burned to avoid contagion and spread.
Forcing cultivation
To make them available for the Spring Festival, choose early-flowering varieties and plant them in early October on the light-receiving side of a hotbed or greenhouse. Move them into the greenhouse in early December and sprinkle water once a day. Buds can appear in about 20 days. If earlier blooming is desired, the greenhouse temperature should be kept at 16-18°C, and all sides should be covered to prevent sunlight exposure. After two weeks, place them in a sunny place and lower the temperature appropriately. They can bloom after six weeks.