How to grow camellia in pots? Growing methods and precautions
The cultivation history of camellia in China can be traced back to the Shu Han period, when people already placed great importance on the status of camellia. Camellia was ranked as “seven grades and three destinies.” Because of its graceful plant form, dark green and glossy leaves, and brilliant, colorful flowers, it was highly sought after by people. Let us now take a look at the growing methods for camellia!
Camellia's growth habits
Camellia fears wind and likes sun, high and cool terrain, air circulation, warmth and humidity, good drainage, and loose, fertile sandy loam, loess or humus soil, with pH 5.5-6.5 being best. The optimum temperature is between 20-32°C. Growth stops above 29°C, and at 35°C the leaves will show scorching. It requires a certain temperature difference, and environmental humidity above 70%. Most varieties can tolerate -8°C low temperatures (natural overwintering; Yunnan camellia is slightly less cold-tolerant). In areas south of the Huai River, it can generally overwinter naturally. It likes acidic soil and requires good air permeability. Usually peat, rotted sawdust, red soil, humus soil, or a mixed substrate of the above can be used for cultivation. In spring, autumn and winter, no shading is needed; in summer, 50% shading treatment can be used.
Camellia growing methods
1. Placement location: Camellia likes semi-shade and avoids strong sun, and is suitable for placement in a warm, humid, ventilated and light-transmitting place. When growing camellia, there should be sufficient light in spring, and in summer attention should be paid to shading and avoiding direct sunlight. If camellia is placed on a balcony, it will often be sunburned to death if one is not careful. During storage and transportation of camellia, high temperatures and dry air must be prevented, otherwise buds and flowers are prone to dropping, affecting quality.
2. Temperature: Camellia prefers a warm climate. The suitable growing temperature is between 18-25°C, the initial flowering temperature is 2°C, and it is slightly cold-tolerant. General varieties can tolerate -10°C low temperatures, and can also tolerate summer heat, but above 36°C its growth will be inhibited. Cultivating camellia requires a certain temperature difference, and environmental humidity above 60% is best. In areas south of the Huai River, it can generally overwinter naturally, while the Yunnan camellia variety among camellias is slightly less cold-tolerant.
3. Watering: Potted camellia cultivation should keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, so as to avoid alternating dry and wet conditions affecting growth. Generally, in spring it can be watered appropriately more to help sprouting and shoot growth; in summer, insist on watering morning and evening, preferably spraying water on the leaf surface to soak the leaves thoroughly. Do not water with hot water, and watering should avoid the high temperatures around noon; in autumn, watering should be moderate; in winter, it is best to water around noon, and spraying water once every two or three days is sufficient.
4. Fertilizing: Camellia likes fertilizer. When potting, pay attention to placing a layer of base fertilizer in the potting soil, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. The best fertilizer is a mixture of decomposed bone meal, hair, chicken feathers, rice husk ash, poultry manure, and superphosphate. Normally, do not fertilize too much. Generally, apply 2-3 times of dilute fertilizer water between April and May after flowering, and apply one slightly stronger water fertilizer in November in autumn. When fertilizing camellia, note that the proportion of phosphorus fertilizer should be slightly larger to promote abundant flowers and bright colors.
5. Pruning: Camellia grows relatively slowly and should not be pruned excessively. Generally, it is enough to cut off leggy branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and weak branches. If there are too many flower buds on each branch, the flowers can be thinned, leaving only 1-2 and keeping a certain distance, while the rest need to be removed early to avoid consuming too many nutrients. In addition, flowers that are about to wither should also be removed in time, which can also reduce nutrient consumption and help camellia grow robustly and form new flower buds.
6. Repotting: Potted camellia is best repotted once every 1-2 years. The new pot must be one size larger than the old pot, which helps the camellia root system spread and develop. The best time for repotting camellia is in April in spring, though it can also be done in autumn. When repotting, combine it with changing the soil by appropriately removing part of the compacted old soil, replacing it with fertile, loose, breathable new growing soil, and first placing a layer of base fertilizer.
Camellia flowering period management
Generally after “Start of Winter,” camellias will bloom one after another. To make camellia flowers large and colorful and improve their ornamental value, the following technical points must be grasped well in flowering period management.
1. Fertilizer and water management: After “Start of Winter,” the flower buds of most camellia varieties have already swollen considerably. At this time, decomposed organic fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer must be applied, watered on once every 7 days until the flowers open. In one pot of camellia there are often several buds, and most varieties cannot bloom at the same time. After the first-opening flowers wither, fertilizer still needs to be supplemented so that the later-opening flowers bloom well and fully. However, after the flowers open, fertilizer can no longer be applied, otherwise they will suffer fertilizer damage and die. During the flowering period, camellia has a relatively large water requirement. As long as the potting soil is dry, sufficient water can be given at noon. The plant must not be allowed to lack water, which would cause the flowers to wither early.
2. Move it less: Camellia is very delicate during the flowering period, so it should be moved as little as possible, especially when moving it from indoors to outdoors. If it is to be moved from indoors to outdoors, then move camellias that have already bloomed or are blooming, and cover them with a nylon bag and tie it shut to prevent cold wind invasion and freezing damage. Unopened flower buds have stronger cold resistance and do not need bagging.
3. Pay attention to ventilation: Camellia should not be placed in an unventilated room for a long time. Windows should be opened every day for air exchange to facilitate normal opening of the flower buds.
4. Supplement with light fertilizer: For larger potted camellia varieties, such as Xiaotaohong and Jinjiang Peony, if many flowers bloom at the same time, control the flowering period to no more than 10 days, supplement with light fertilizer in time after flowering, and pay attention to careful care so as to help restore their “vitality.”
Camellia pest and disease control
1. Anthracnose
[Disease characteristics] Anthracnose is one of the common diseases of camellia. It generally occurs on the leaves of current-year seedlings between June and July, and the lesions mostly start from the leaf tip or leaf margin. At the initial stage, water-soaked greenish-brown lesions appear on the edges of the basal leaves, then expand into irregular large spots arranged in a pattern with a layer of small black dots spreading over the entire leaf, finally causing the leaves to fall off.
[Control methods] ① Strengthen cultivation management, pay attention to applying organic fertilizer and phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to improve the plant's disease resistance, and promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them. ② After spring shoots emerge, spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture to prevent pathogen infection. ③ In the early stage of disease onset, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder plus 600 times water solution; or spray with 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 1000-1500 times solution.
2. Sooty mold
[Disease characteristics] Sooty mold can damage branches and leaves, and is even more obvious on leaves. In the early stage of infection, small soot-like mold spots appear on the diseased parts, then gradually expand and connect into patches, causing most of the plant to be covered by a soot-like mold layer. After the pathogen parasitizes, it not only absorbs flower nutrients, but also seriously affects the plant's photosynthesis and respiration, causing the plant to shed a large number of leaves.
[Control methods] ① Do not plant too densely, and keep ventilation and light transmission between plants good. ② Do not allow humidity to become too high, and control conditions for pathogen breeding. ③ During the disease period, spray with 0.3 degree Baumé lime sulfur mixture, once every 10-15 days, for a total of 3 sprays. ④ A 50% thiophanate wettable powder 500 times solution can also be sprayed, once every 7-10 days, 3 sprays, which can achieve a therapeutic effect.
3. Root-knot nematode disease
[Disease characteristics] Root-knot nematode disease harms the root system of camellia, turning the roots dark brown, with root nodules rotting and splitting. The main root swells, new fibrous roots do not grow, the aboveground plant stops growing, and gradually the entire plant dies.
[Control methods] ① Before potting, the growing soil must be disinfected to kill disease-causing small insects. ② After discovering the disease, immediately use disinfected growing soil as potting soil and repot. ③ Before repotting, the potting soil can be exposed to the hot sun for 2-3 days before use. ④ A solution made from dibromochloropropane plus 100-150 times water can be sprayed on the soil for disinfection, but soil treated with this chemical must be piled for 20 days before it can be used for potting. Otherwise it will damage the root system.
4. Cloud-pattern leaf blight
[Disease characteristics] Cloud-pattern leaf blight harms young branches, leaves and flower buds. Leaf lesions mostly occur at the leaf tip and leaf margin. In the early stage, the lesions are semicircular or irregular, yellow-green, then gradually turn brown, and in the later stage the lesions become gray-white with dark brown edges. In the later stage the diseased leaves are brittle and extremely easy to fall off; lesions on shoots are strip-shaped dark brown, slightly sunken, and in severe cases the branches die. The disease period is from May to August.
[Control methods] In early summer in June, when the temperature rises suddenly and dead spots appear on the leaves, pesticide should be sprayed for protection. In August, when rainfall is greater than 40 mm and the average relative humidity is greater than 80%, spray immediately. You can choose 75% chlorothalonil 800 times solution, 50% carbendazim 1000 times solution, or 50% benomyl or 70% thiophanate-methyl 1500 times solution for control. After spraying carbendazim, benomyl, or thiophanate-methyl, tea can only be picked after an interval of 10 days; the safety interval for chlorothalonil is 14 days. Non-picking tea gardens can also be sprayed with 0.7% lime half-strength Bordeaux mixture.
How to grow camellia in pots? Camellia growing methods and precautions
Camellia is also known as camellia, camellia flower, etc. It is a shrub or small tree plant of the genus Camellia in the family Theaceae. Its flowering period is relatively long, blooming from October to May of the following year, with the peak flowering period usually from January to March. Because of its graceful plant form, dark green and glossy leaves, and brilliant, colorful flowers, it is treasured by the world horticultural community. Let us now take a look at the growing methods and precautions for camellia!
Camellia's place of origin and distribution
There are about 2000 camellia varieties, which can be divided into 3 major categories and 12 flower forms. By 2013, China had more than 306 camellia varieties. It is native to southwestern China, mainly distributed in China's Yangtze River and Pearl River basins, Yunnan, and Korea, Japan, India and other places. It is mostly cultivated in the open field in the central and southern provinces of China, with a cultivation history of 1400 years, while in the north it is grown in pots in greenhouses. There are wild species in Sichuan, Taiwan, China, Shandong, Jiangxi and other places.
Camellia's growth habits
Camellia fears wind and likes sun, high and cool terrain, air circulation, warmth and humidity, good drainage, and loose, fertile sandy loam, loess or humus soil, with pH 5.5-6.5 being best. The optimum temperature is between 20-32°C. Growth stops above 29°C, and at 35°C the leaves will show scorching. It requires a certain temperature difference. Environmental humidity above 70%, and most varieties can tolerate -8°C low temperatures. In areas south of the Huai River, it can generally overwinter naturally. It likes acidic soil and requires good air permeability. To facilitate root hair development, peat, rotted sawdust, red soil, humus soil, or a mixed substrate of the above can usually be used for cultivation. Camellia can go without shading in spring, autumn and winter, and in summer 50% shading treatment can be used.
Camellia propagation methods
1. Cutting propagation: Camellia cutting propagation is the simplest. The most suitable time for cuttings is September, and spring is also acceptable. Select well-grown, semi-lignified branches, remove the basal leaves, retain the upper 3 leaves, cut diagonally with a sharp knife, immediately immerse the cut end in 200-500 ppm indolebutyric acid for 5-15 minutes, dry in the sun, then insert into a sand pot or vermiculite pot. After inserting, water, and in about 40 days the wound heals, and in about 60 days roots form. Cuttings treated with hormones root 2-3 months earlier than those not treated with hormones. Using vermiculite as the cutting bed also roots much faster than a sand bed.
2. Approach grafting propagation: Select an appropriate variety such as Chazhong tea or oil tea as rootstock, and approach-graft a precious camellia onto it. The time for approach grafting is generally between Qingming Festival and Mid-Autumn Festival. First plant the rootstock in a flowerpot, use a knife to cut away about half at the parts to be joined respectively, with smooth cuts, then make the cut surfaces of both sides fit closely together, wrap with plastic film, water the rootstock twice a day, and after 60 days it can heal. At that time it can be cut off and planted, and placed under tree shade to avoid direct sunlight. In February of the following year, use a knife to cut off the tail part of the rootstock, and then plant it in place.
3. Leaf cutting propagation: For camellia propagation by leaf cutting, branch cuttings are generally used, but some precious varieties, due to restrictions on the source of branches, or because taking material would affect their tree shape, also use the leaf cutting method. Use mountain soil as the cutting substrate, and mix in 1/3 river sand to facilitate aeration and drainage. Put the substrate in a clay pot, then carry out pot insertion. Leaf cutting is best done in the rainy season. Take one-year-old leaves as leaf cutting material; too old ones do not easily root, and too tender ones easily rot. Insert about 2 cm into the soil, press the soil firmly after insertion, water thoroughly, then place in a cool, ventilated place. Generally roots can develop in 3 months, and in the following spring they can sprout and grow branches.
4. High insertion propagation: The greatest feature of the aerial layering method is that it can give new life to all the weak small branches on the camellia that should originally be pruned away. Moreover, this method has a high survival rate, quick rejuvenation, and early flowering. The method is: on the thin and weak branches that need to be pruned, carry out ring-barking at an appropriate position (generally 15-25 cm of branch can be left at the upper part). The ring-barking length can be between 5-8 mm. Tie on a suitably sized plastic film, add sterilized and disinfected peat soil or leaf mold into the film, and after 7-10 days, ring-bark another 5-8 mm at the lower part of the plastic film. This is called the double ring-barking high insertion method.
5. Tree grafting propagation: Grafting camellia has many advantages. It can maintain the excellent traits of the variety, accelerate plant growth so that it quickly takes shape and can be produced on a large scale, and save scion branches, especially for rare varieties with few sources of scion branches. The grafting time is suitable between June and July. At this time the new shoot leaves of the camellia scion have already unfolded, and the temperature is relatively high, so the grafting wound heals quickly and the survival rate is high. The grafting method uses the cut grafting method among branch grafting methods. Because the grafting position is relatively high, it is often called “high grafting to replace the head.”
Camellia growing methods
1. Soil requirements: Soil is the fundamental condition for camellia growth, so the choice of soil is also very important. Generally, when choosing soil, we should choose soil with relatively high humus content, slightly acidic soil, and generally the best soil pH is between 5-6.5.
2. Suitable temperature: Generally, the suitable growth temperature for camellia is 18-25 degrees. If the environmental temperature is too high or too low, it is not conducive to camellia growth. Special attention should be paid in winter to moving the plant indoors for growth. Generally at noon, move the plant to the balcony, and in summer also pay attention to sun protection to prevent the temperature from being too high.
3. Appropriate watering: Generally camellia likes to grow in a humid environment, so camellia should be watered mainly, but note that it is better to keep the soil from being too dry or too wet. Generally, water more in spring and summer, which is also conducive to camellia growth. In winter, pay attention to watering less, and watering once every two to three days is better.
4. Appropriate fertilizing: Camellia is a fertilizer-loving plant, so during the growing process, remember to fertilize. Generally during the growth period, add phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which is also conducive to camellia growth and also makes the flowers bloom more luxuriantly. At the same time, also note not to fertilize too much.
5. Regular pruning: Pruning work is also very important. Generally, when camellia flower buds are dense, it is recommended to carry out regular pruning work, cut off weak branches, tidy the flower buds, and at the same time it can also promote camellia's absorption of nutrients.
6. Pest and disease prevention: Camellia is also very prone to pests and diseases. Generally there are two kinds, black mold disease and anthracnose. Note that during the pest and disease period, it is better to spray some pesticides and disease-control medicines on the camellia, which can play a very good role in promoting growth.
Potted camellia growing methods
1. Potting soil selection: According to the growth characteristics of camellia, it is suitable to choose slightly acidic, loose, fertile, and well-drained mixed soil as potting soil. Special attention should be paid to good drainage. Lime soil must be avoided. The ratio of the mixed soil is 6 parts red soil, 3 parts orchid mud (leaf mold), and 1-2 parts fine sandy soil. The pot size should be moderate, not too large or too small. Generally, the ratio of pot to seedling is that a camellia with a height of 40-50 cm and a crown width of 20-25 cm is suitable for planting in a purple clay pot or tile pot with a diameter of about 20 cm, and other sizes can be deduced accordingly.
2. Potting time: The potting time for camellia is November in winter and February-March in early spring. At this time the flower buds are plump and the flowers are in full bloom, making it most suitable for potting. When the flowers are withering and new roots are still sprouting, if potting is to be done, special attention must be paid not to damage the root system. Generally, potting is stopped before and after the budding period, because at this time new shoots are about to sprout and leaves are unfolding, requiring a large amount of water. If potting is carried out, the new roots will be injured, which can easily affect growth and development that year. Potting is also taboo in high temperatures and severe winter, so as to avoid causing plant shrinkage and death.
3. Potting method: First place 3-4 pieces of broken tile over the drainage hole at the bottom of the selected flowerpot, then fill in part of the coarse soil, plant the seedling in the pot, fill the roots with fine soil, then slowly fill the larger-grained potting soil around the pot, gently shake the pot, and press with the hand so that the potting soil fits closely with the roots. For large pots, a bamboo stick can be used to gently press the potting soil downward, and care should be taken not to damage the roots. The potting soil should account for 4/5 of the pot height to facilitate watering.
4. Watering method: Newly potted seedlings should be kept moist. After 2 months, they can be watered like other potted seedlings. The number of waterings should depend on climatic conditions, with the principle of keeping the soil moist. Generally, water more in spring to meet the needs of sprouting and shoot growth. In summer, watering should be done in the morning and evening. During the plum rain period, prevent waterlogging. In autumn drought, water in time. In winter, watering should be done at noon to prevent the potting soil from freezing, as dry soil freezes more severely.
5. Fertilizing method: Camellia does not particularly like fertilizer, and it is not necessary to apply too much fertilizer. Generally, before flowering in October-November and after flowering around April-May, fertilize 2-4 times. Generally use mixed fertilizer (human manure and urine, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, phosphate fertilizer), preferably mainly phosphate fertilizer with nitrogen fertilizer as a supplement, to prevent branches from becoming leggy and flowers from decreasing. All kinds of fertilizers must be fully decomposed before use, but rapeseed cake and fish meal can be directly scattered on the soil surface without being rotted, covered with a thin layer of soil, and left to slowly rot and seep into the soil for root absorption. The amount of fertilizer applied should be controlled by applying more to strong seedlings and less or none to weak seedlings. For seedlings that grow too weakly, replacing the potting soil instead of fertilizing also has a very good effect.
6. Shading and cold protection: Camellia likes a warm and humid climate. Too cold or too hot is not conducive to growth and development. In spring and the plum rain period, potted camellia should be given sufficient sunlight, otherwise the branches will develop thinly and weakly, easily causing sooty mold and scale insect damage, or moss growing on the trunk, leading to withered branches, aging or death. In the high-temperature seasons of summer and autumn, shade and cool down in time. When the winter temperature drops below zero, it will cause flower buds to fall off or flower cores to freeze, affecting flowering quality. Therefore, the indoor overwintering temperature for potted seedlings should preferably be maintained at around 3-4°C. If the temperature exceeds 16°C, it will promote early sprouting, and in severe cases cause leaf drop and bud drop.
7. Disease control: The main pests of camellia are stem borers and scale insects. The main diseases include anthracnose on the leaf surface, black sooty mold, and moss parasitism on branches and trunks. Diseased branches should be cut off in time and pesticides sprayed for control.
Camellia growing precautions
1. Camellia should not be heavily pruned. Its flowers, leaves, and buds take a long time to develop, and the crown forms relatively evenly. Basically no special pruning is needed; it is enough to cut off diseased and pest-infested branches, overly dense branches, weak branches, and shorten leggy branches.
2. Camellia is a multi-flowered tree species. Especially on weak-growing plants, if flower buds are dense, they will consume too many nutrients, which is unfavorable to plant growth. Therefore, bud thinning is an important part of cultivation management. It is advisable to leave 1-2 buds per branch, at most only 3, and keep a certain distance. The thinned flower buds can be used for medicinal purposes.
3. Camellia's flowering period is relatively long, with the entire flowering period lasting up to half a year. Therefore, promptly removing flowers close to withering is greatly beneficial for reducing nutrient consumption and strengthening the tree's vigor.
How to grow potted camellia? Camellia growing methods and precautions
Camellia is a flowering plant of the genus Camellia in the family Theaceae. Its leaves are green and distinctive, and its flowers are large and colorful. It has very high ornamental value and is a very good potted ornamental flower, deeply favored by flower and plant enthusiasts. So, how to grow potted camellia? The growing methods and precautions for camellia are introduced below.
Image: Camellia
I. Growing methods for potted camellia
1. Placement location:Camellia likes semi-shade and avoids strong sun, and is suitable for placement in a warm, humid, ventilated and light-transmitting place. When growing camellia, there should be sufficient light in spring, and in summer attention should be paid to shading and avoiding direct sunlight. If camellia is placed on a balcony, it will often be sunburned to death if one is not careful. During storage and transportation of camellia, high temperatures and dry air must be prevented, otherwise buds and flowers are prone to dropping, affecting quality.
2. Temperature:Camellia prefers a warm climate. The suitable growing temperature is between 18-25°C, the initial flowering temperature is 2°C, and it is slightly cold-tolerant. General varieties can tolerate -10°C low temperatures, and can also tolerate summer heat, but above 36°C its growth will be inhibited. Cultivating camellia requires a certain temperature difference, and environmental humidity above 60% is best. In areas south of the Huai River, it can generally overwinter naturally, while the Yunnan camellia variety among camellias is slightly less cold-tolerant.
3. Watering:Potted camellia cultivation should keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, so as to avoid alternating dry and wet conditions affecting growth. Generally, in spring it can be watered appropriately more to help sprouting and shoot growth; in summer, insist on watering morning and evening, preferably spraying water on the leaf surface to soak the leaves thoroughly. Do not water with hot water, and watering should avoid the high temperatures around noon; in autumn, watering should be moderate; in winter, it is best to water around noon, and spraying water once every two or three days is sufficient.
Image: Camellia
4. Fertilizing:Camellia likes fertilizer. When potting, pay attention to placing a layer of base fertilizer in the potting soil, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. The best fertilizer is a mixture of decomposed bone meal, hair, chicken feathers, rice husk ash, poultry manure, and superphosphate. Normally, do not fertilize too much. Generally, apply 2-3 times of dilute fertilizer water between April and May after flowering, and apply one slightly stronger water fertilizer in November in autumn. When fertilizing camellia, note that the proportion of phosphorus fertilizer should be slightly larger to promote abundant flowers and bright colors.
5. Pruning:Camellia grows relatively slowly and should not be pruned excessively. Generally, it is enough to cut off leggy branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and weak branches. If there are too many flower buds on each branch, the flowers can be thinned, leaving only 1-2 and keeping a certain distance, while the rest need to be removed early to avoid consuming too many nutrients. In addition, flowers that are about to wither should also be removed in time, which can also reduce nutrient consumption and help camellia grow robustly and form new flower buds.
6. Repotting:Potted camellia is best repotted once every 1-2 years. The new pot must be one size larger than the old pot, which helps the camellia root system spread and develop. The best time for repotting camellia is in April in spring, though it can also be done in autumn. When repotting, combine it with changing the soil by appropriately removing part of the compacted old soil, replacing it with fertile, loose, breathable new growing soil, and first placing a layer of base fertilizer.
Image: Camellia
II. Precautions for growing potted camellia
Camellia should not be heavily pruned. Its flowers, leaves, and buds take a long time to develop, and the crown forms relatively evenly. Basically no special pruning is needed; it is enough to cut off diseased and pest-infested branches, overly dense branches, weak branches, and shorten leggy branches. Camellia is a multi-flowered tree species. Especially on weak-growing plants, if flower buds are dense, they will consume too many nutrients, which is unfavorable to plant growth. Therefore, bud thinning is an important part of cultivation management. It is advisable to leave 1-2 buds per branch, at most only 3, and keep a certain distance. The thinned flower buds can be used for medicinal purposes. Camellia's flowering period is relatively long, with the entire flowering period lasting up to half a year. Therefore, promptly removing flowers close to withering is greatly beneficial for reducing nutrient consumption and strengthening the tree's vigor.
[Editor's concluding remarks]Camellia likes warm, humid, well-drained, loose and fertile soil, and extra attention is needed during the care process. The above has introduced the growing methods and precautions for camellia for everyone, and I hope it can be helpful to everyone!