How to grow Ranunculus asiaticus? Growth habits and cultivation methods of this perennial herbaceous flower
Ranunculus asiaticus, also known as celery flower, Persian buttercup, and lotus flower, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Ranunculus in the family Ranunculaceae. It is native to southeastern Europe and southwestern Asia. It has a low, compact form, bright colors, upright flower stems, and beautiful and unique flower shapes. It is suitable for planting under trees or on the north side of buildings, and is very popular with consumers. Below, let us take a look at the cultivation methods and precautions for Ranunculus asiaticus!
Growth habits of Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus prefers cool and semi-shaded environments and dislikes heat. The suitable growing temperature is around 20°C during the day and 7-10°C at night. It fears both wetness and drought. It is best planted in well-drained, fertile, loose neutral or slightly alkaline soil. After June, the tubers enter dormancy. It prefers a mild climate, fresh and humid air, and a loosely shaded growing environment. It is not tolerant of severe cold and freezing, and is even more afraid of intense summer heat and scorching sun. In most parts of China, it enters dormancy in summer. For pot cultivation, it requires a sandy culture soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, with strong permeability.
Propagation methods of Ranunculus asiaticus
1. Division: Potted Ranunculus asiaticus is mainly propagated by division, usually carried out in autumn from September to October. After digging out the tubers that were left in pots to dormant through summer, shake off the soil and separate them by hand along their natural growth direction. Each separated part must have a section of root crown, 1-2 new buds, and 3-4 small tubers. Then soak in 1% potassium permanganate solution for 3-5 minutes to disinfect and sterilize, allow to dry slightly, and then plant.
2. Sowing: Propagation by sowing in Ranunculus asiaticus shows great variation and is often used for breeding and mass propagation. The sowing time is in warm spring. After breaking up the soil in the seedbed, raking it fine, and leveling it, water thoroughly with a fine-rose watering can. Wait until the standing water on the bed surface has seeped away, then evenly scatter the germinated Ranunculus asiaticus seeds on the seedbed. Cover the bed surface with a layer of sifted fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, then cover with double-layer shade netting to lower temperature and retain moisture.
Cultivation methods of Ranunculus asiaticus
1. Soil: Ranunculus asiaticus prefers well-drained, fertile, loose neutral or slightly alkaline soil, and sufficient base fertilizer should be applied at planting. For pot cultivation, it requires a sandy culture soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, with strong permeability. You can use 2 parts garden soil, 1 part leaf mold, and 1 part barnyard manure as the potting soil.
2. Light: Ranunculus asiaticus is not tolerant of strong light and prefers semi-shaded environments. In winter, light should be sufficient. In spring, as temperatures rise and light intensity increases, moderate shading should be applied and ventilation strengthened. In addition, Ranunculus asiaticus is a long-day plant, and its flowering period can be controlled according to this characteristic.
3. Watering: Ranunculus asiaticus prefers moisture but fears waterlogging, and is relatively drought-tolerant, but should not be overly dry. After planting, the first watering should be thorough. Subsequent watering should be timely and balanced, and the soil should not be too dry or too wet. The appropriate degree of watering is when the soil surface is dry but the leaves do not show wilting.
4. Fertilizer: Before planting Ranunculus asiaticus, decomposed cake fertilizer or animal manure and other organic fertilizers should be selected as base fertilizer and spread evenly. After transplanting, start topdressing when the plant shows obvious growth or grows new leaves. In the early stage, mainly use urea; in the later stage, mainly use compound fertilizer, applying once every 7 days.
5. Temperature: Ranunculus asiaticus prefers a cool environment. The optimal growing temperature is 15-20°C during the day and 7-8°C at night. The temperature should not be too high or too low, and the day-night temperature difference should not be too large, otherwise the growth and development of Ranunculus asiaticus will be affected, leading to a decrease in flower number and quality.
6. Pests: During the growing period of Ranunculus asiaticus, if temperature and humidity are high, it is prone to causing leggy growth, yellow leaves, and stem base rot. The main pests include root maggots and leaf miners, which can be killed by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. For root rot, irrigate with 50% benomyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution.
7. Pruning: Ranunculus asiaticus is a flowering plant with a beautiful plant form and bright flower colors, and it grows relatively quickly. In the early bud stage, select and keep 3-5 healthy buds per plant, and remove the rest. At this time, the potting soil should be slightly dry. After flowering, if seeds are not needed, remove the spent flowers promptly.
Pest and disease control of Ranunculus asiaticus
1. Southern blight
[Symptoms] Southern blight mainly attacks the stem base of the plant. When the disease is severe, the stem base rots and necroses, the aboveground part separates from the underground part, water cannot rise, branches and leaves wither, and the plant dies.
[Control] In the early stage of the disease, spray and drench the stem base of the plant and the surrounding soil with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 500 times dilution or 5% validamycin at 1000 times dilution to alleviate the condition.
2. Penicillium rot
[Symptoms] Penicillium rot mainly occurs during the tuber storage period. When the disease is severe, the surface of stored tubers is covered with a large amount of Penicillium conidia, which easily infects healthy tubers.
[Control] Promptly remove and burn or deeply bury tubers infected with Penicillium. Adjacent tubers must also be taken out, disinfected, dried, and then stored again to prevent Penicillium from infecting healthy tubers.
3. Viral disease
[Symptoms] Symptoms include wrinkled and uneven leaves, mosaic patterns, chlorotic spots, or leaves shrinking and becoming smaller and thicker. In severe cases, diseased plants are noticeably stunted, shrivel, and die.
[Control] In the early stage of the disease, spray with 68% virus wettable powder at 800 or 1000 times dilution, 3.85% virusbike wettable powder at 100 times dilution, or 7.5% keduling aqueous solution at 800 times dilution for control.
4. Root rot
[Symptoms] Infection with root rot causes the root system to rot and turn dark brown or black. The aboveground stems and leaves gradually wilt and turn yellow, and the plant dies.
[Control] In the early stage of the disease, drench the roots with 75% thiophanate-methyl at 800 times dilution or 50% benlate wettable powder at 1000 times dilution. For potted plants, immediately repot and replace the substrate to control the spread of the disease.
5. Mosaic disease
[Symptoms] Chlorotic spots appear on the leaves. In severe cases, plant growth and development are poor.
[Control] Use healthy seedlings and do not propagate by division from diseased plants. Spray insecticides promptly to control aphids. Sterilize cutting tools with heat or wash them clean with detergent.
6. Leaf miner
[Symptoms] Larvae bore into and feed on leaf tissue, forming serpentine white mines. Their excrement appears as continuous black linear deposits within the mines. Adult feeding and egg-laying cause circular wound spots.
[Control] In the early stage of occurrence or about 20 days after the peak emergence of female flies, promptly alternate and rotate the use of 75% cyromazine wettable powder at 5000 times dilution, 4.5% beta-cypermethrin emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, 50% chlorpyrifos at 2000 times dilution, and 25% banqianjing emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution. Spray once every 10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
Ranunculus asiaticus Ranunculus asiaticus illustrated guide: How to grow Ranunculus asiaticus / How to propagate Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus profileRanunculus asiaticus Ranunculus asiaticus
Cultivation methods and precautions of Ranunculus asiaticus Introduction to Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus (scientific name: Ranunculus asiaticus), also known as celery flower and Persian buttercup, is commonly called "yang mudan" in the Kunming area. It is a perennial herbaceous flower of the genus Ranunculus in the family Ranunculaceae. Ranunculus asiaticus is native to the Mediterranean coast, and has been widely cultivated in France, Israel, and other European countries. It is now cultivated in countries around the world. China began introducing and cultivating cut flower varieties in the late 1990s. It is more suitable for forcing cultivation in winter and spring. Its flower colors are bright and rich, with five to several dozen petals, and a flower diameter of 6-9 cm. Flowers come in red, white, orange, and other colors, and there are single-petaled and double-petaled types. It is deeply loved by consumers, and the planting area is increasing year by year.
Morphological characteristics of Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus has an exquisite and beautiful plant form, with rich and brilliant flower colors. It is a perennial herbaceous flower. The plant height is 20 cm to 40 cm. The tubers are spindle-shaped, often several clustered at the root crown. The stem is single or few-branched, with hairs. The basal leaves are broadly ovate with long petioles, and the stem leaves are sessile, being 2-pinnate or 3-pinnate compound leaves. Flowers are solitary or several terminal, with a flower diameter of 3 cm to 4 cm. The flowering period is from April to May. Underground there are spindle-shaped small tubers about 2 cm long and 1 cm in diameter. The aboveground clump is about 30 cm tall, with slender and upright stems, few branches, and bristles. The root leaves have long petioles, are elliptical, and mostly ternate.
They have coarse blunt serrations. The stem leaves are nearly sessile, finely pinnately lobed, with 5 to 6 lobes, and the leaf margins also have blunt serrations. A single flower is borne at the top of the branch, or very long pedicels emerge from the leaf axils. The corolla is full and round, with flat petals, 8 per whorl, arranged in staggered layers. The flower diameter is 3 cm to 4 cm or larger, and often several are clustered at the root crown. In spring, aboveground stems emerge, single or few-branched. The stem leaves have no petioles, while the basal leaves have long petioles and resemble celery. Each flower scape has 1-4 flowers. Ranunculus asiaticus includes potted types and cut flower types. It is distributed in Asia and Europe. It is now cultivated in countries around the world. There are many cultivars, including double-petaled and semi-double-petaled types, with rich flower colors including white, yellow, red, pink, scarlet, orange, purple, and brown.
Ecological habits of Ranunculus asiaticus
It prefers cool and semi-shaded environments and dislikes heat. The suitable growing temperature is around 20°C during the day and 7-10°C at night. It fears both wetness and drought. It is best planted in well-drained, fertile, loose neutral or slightly alkaline soil. After June, the tubers enter dormancy. Ranunculus asiaticus is native to western Asia centered on Turkey and southeastern Europe. It prefers a mild climate, fresh and humid air, and a loosely shaded growing environment. It is not tolerant of severe cold and freezing, and is even more afraid of intense summer heat and scorching sun. In most parts of China, it enters dormancy in summer. For pot cultivation, it requires a sandy culture soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, with strong permeability.
A shade-tolerant plant that prefers cool and semi-shaded environments and dislikes heat. The suitable growing temperature is around 20°C during the day and 7 to 10°C at night. It fears both wetness and drought. It is best planted in well-drained, fertile, loose neutral or slightly alkaline soil. After June, the tubers enter dormancy.
Cultivation techniques of Ranunculus asiaticus
Division is carried out from September to October. Separate the tubers with root crowns and plant them. Propagation by sowing shows great variation and is often used for breeding and mass propagation. They germinate 30-40 days after sowing. When the temperature drops to 5°C, cold protection is needed. In the following year, when the seedlings grow 3 true leaves, transplant them, keep them moist, and topdress once every 7 days. Promptly remove early buds to promote seedling growth. From sowing to summer dormancy in the following year, Ranunculus asiaticus completes the seedling stage, after which it can be propagated by tubers. Plant in early September, with a spacing of 20 cm between plants and rows for field planting. For pot cultivation, use a 18-20 cm diameter clay pot and a mixed fertile soil. Starting in November, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every 10 days. From February of the following year, fertilize once every 7 days and increase the fertilizer concentration. In the early bud stage, select and keep 3-5 healthy buds per plant and remove all the rest to concentrate nutrients. With forcing cultivation, it can bloom by the end of the year. The method is to bury the tubers in moist sawdust, treat them at a low temperature of 8°C-10°C for 30-40 days to break dormancy in summer, then plant from late September to early October. Keep the winter temperature at around 10°C.
For pot cultivation, spraying 0.2%-0.4% B9 can promote plant dwarfing. Generally spray twice: the first time when leaves just begin to emerge, and the second time when buds are the size of a bean. When using seedling cultivation, although sowing in autumn can produce flowers the following spring, the first-year seedlings have fewer petals and smaller flower diameter, with lower ornamental value. Generally, cut flowers, pot flowers, and those used for flower bed cultivation all use one-year-old seedling tubers for planting.
Seed collection and harvesting
To collect superior seeds, determine the seed mother plants according to the requirements of the selection goal, mark them, and strengthen management. When flowers bloom, carry out artificial supplementary pollination between flowers or between plants. When the stamens shed pollen, dip a brush in pollen and apply it to the stigmas of other flowers. When the pollinated flower petals fall and form a green aggregate fruit made of tightly arranged seeds, remove the remaining flowers and buds so that nutrients are concentrated for seed growth and development. At the same time, strengthen fertilizer and water management and pest and disease control so that Ranunculus asiaticus grows robustly, manufactures more nutrients to supply the fruit spike, and produces plump seeds. In June, the aboveground branches and leaves of Ranunculus asiaticus turn yellow and withered, the aggregate fruit changes from green to yellow, and when the seeds are mature, pick the aggregate fruit, dry it in the sun, put it in a paper bag, and store it in a ventilated and dry place until autumn sowing.
Low-temperature germination promotion
The normal sowing period for Ranunculus asiaticus is autumn, preferably sowing in October when the temperature drops below 20°C. However, temperatures vary greatly between years, and germination times differ. If the suitable germination temperature can be controlled at 10°C to 15°C, germination takes about 20 days. If sown early, it will not germinate when the temperature is above 20°C until the temperature drops to the germination temperature, and the time required for germination after sowing is long. If sown late, the vegetative growth before overwintering is insufficient, and the flowers in the following spring will be small. If sown too late, it will not germinate when the temperature is below 5°C until February of the following year when the temperature rises. In production, in order to prolong the vegetative growth period and cultivate high-quality Ranunculus asiaticus, sowing can be advanced to mid-to-late August. At this time, the temperature is high, which is not conducive to seed germination, so low-temperature germination promotion treatment is needed. Wrap the seeds in gauze, soak them in cold water for 24 hours, then place them in a constant-temperature incubator or refrigerator crisper at 8°C to 10°C. Take them out morning and evening every day, rinse with cold water, shake off excess water, and keep the seeds moist. After about 10 days, once the seeds begin to germinate and show white, sow immediately. Where conditions permit, high-mountain seedling raising can be used.
Land preparation and seedling raising
The seedbed should be chosen in a well-ventilated, well-lit, well-drained, loose and fertile sandy loam. Avoid planting in low-lying, waterlogged clay areas. During land preparation, apply 25 kg decomposed organic fertilizer, 0.15 kg nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer, 8 g 50% carbendazim original powder, and 20 g 3% carbofuran granules per square meter of seedbed to prevent pest and disease damage. Then deep plow 20 cm, mix evenly, and make a seedbed 1 m wide and 20 cm high. After breaking up the soil, raking it fine, and leveling the bed surface, water thoroughly with a fine-rose watering can. Wait until the standing water on the bed surface has seeped away, then evenly scatter the germinated Ranunculus asiaticus seeds on the seedbed. Cover the bed surface with a layer of sifted fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, then cover with double-layer shade netting to lower temperature and retain moisture.
After the seedlings emerge completely, if the temperature is high, build an arched frame and cover with a layer of shade netting. When the weather turns cool, remove the shade netting and gradually increase light until maintaining them under full light conditions. When the two shield-shaped cotyledons mature or true leaves grow, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 to 1000 times dilution or 75% chlorothalonil at 500 times dilution to prevent disease. At the same time, spray the leaves with a mixed solution of 0.05% urea and KH2PO4 once a week to promote robust seedling growth.
Transplanting and planting
When the seedlings grow 4 to 5 true leaves, they can be divided and transplanted into pots or planted into the seedbed of a plastic greenhouse. The planting soil is the same as the sowing soil. When lifting seedlings, use a flower shovel to dig up the seedlings one by one, carrying as much native soil as possible to reduce damage to the root system. To cultivate high-quality pot flowers and increase crown diameter, plant 3 to 5 seedlings per pot. For seedbed field planting, 3 to 5 seedlings can be planted as a clump, with a clump spacing of 20 to 25 cm. After transplanting, water thoroughly to settle the roots and allow the root system to connect closely with the soil, and cover with shade netting to help the seedlings recover. After they survive, maintain them under full light.
Post-planting management
1. Seedling stage management: If light is too strong and temperature is high during the seedling stage, build shade netting to lower temperature. To prevent leggy growth of seedlings, growth is best when the daytime temperature is below 15°C, the nighttime temperature is 5°C to 8°C, and the temperature difference is less than 10°C. If the temperature remains above 20°C for a long time, the leaves will turn yellow. When the winter temperature drops to 5°C, cold protection measures should be taken, covering with plastic film to keep warm. When the temperature rises at noon on sunny days, pay attention to ventilation and cooling, make rational use of sunlight, and keep the greenhouse temperature at 5°C to 10°C so that the seedlings remain in a growing state. During the seedling stage, control watering: do not water if not dry. Soil that is too wet easily causes young root rot. When watering, water as slowly as possible to prevent the water flow from washing out young roots or washing away the substrate. Every 10 to 15 days, apply 0.1% urea and KH2PO4 mixed solution or topdress with 0.3% liquid compound fertilizer once together with watering.
2. Pre-flowering management: From when the seedlings grow about 10 basal leaves to when the plant produces upright stems and forms buds is the pre-flowering management period, that is, the vegetative growth period. To ensure vegetative growth of the plant, the soil must not lack water; otherwise, the plant will grow short, have few tillers, and an underdeveloped root system, affecting flower bud formation. However, soil that is too wet easily causes root rot and disease, resulting in poor plant growth.
As basal leaves increase and the clump enlarges, apply a compound fertilizer aqueous solution with a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio of 3:2:2 once every 10 days, and gradually increase the fertilizer concentration and frequency. In spring, when the temperature is suitable, Ranunculus asiaticus grows vigorously and produces upright stems, so fertilizer and water supplementation should be increased. Water frequently to keep the soil moist. Apply dilute cake fertilizer liquid or compound fertilizer once a week, and appropriately spray 1 to 2 times with foliar fertilizer mainly consisting of phosphorus and potassium until budding.
According to the growth of the plants, timely widen the spacing between pots, remove yellow leaves and diseased and damaged leaves, and prevent excessive plant density, which can cause leggy growth and poor ventilation. At the same time, strengthen pest and disease control, promptly remove diseased plants, and regularly spray broad-spectrum fungicides for sterilization. Monitor the occurrence of pests such as leaf miners and aphids at all times. Prioritize prevention and eliminate pests and diseases in the early stage of occurrence.
3. Flowering stage management: The period from bud formation and development to flowering is the flowering stage. During bud formation and development, fertilizer demand is high, so apply dilute cake fertilizer liquid plus 0.2% KH2PO4 solution once every 7 to 10 days.
To make the flower stems substantial and prevent wind breakage and lodging, increase the amount of potassium fertilizer before budding. Apply wood ash extract once every 10 days (10 kg clean water plus 1 kg wood ash soaked for one week), take the supernatant and dilute with 50% water to topdress the root area, applying twice consecutively. To concentrate nutrients and promote larger flowers, thin the buds in the early bud stage, selecting 3 to 5 healthy buds per plant and removing all the rest. To reduce the height of Ranunculus asiaticus, make the plant form more beautiful, and improve ornamental value, from the early stage of flower stem emergence until buds grow out of the leaf clump, spray 0.2% to 0.4% B-9 (daminozide) on the stem tips and leaf surfaces once every 10 days, for a total of 2 to 3 times, which can promote plant dwarfing. Alternatively, spray once with 15% paclobutrazol powder aqueous solution at budding. Spray early and late buds in batches, and do not repeat the spray.
During the flowering period, watering should be moderate and balanced to keep the soil moist. Lack of water will affect flowering, causing a short flowering period, less vivid colors, and yellowing leaves. If high temperature and strong light occur during flowering, shade promptly, ventilate, and cool to prevent leaves from turning yellow. If the temperature is kept at 15°C to 18°C and spent flowers are promptly removed, the flowering period can last as long as 1 to 2 months.
4. Post-flowering management: From after flowering until the aboveground stems and leaves gradually wither and yellow, the seeds mature, and the underground tubers enlarge and enter dormancy, this is the post-flowering growth period. For plants not kept for seed, after the petals fall, promptly cut off spent flowers and remove young fruit spikes. Water timely and topdress 1 to 2 times with liquid fertilizer mainly consisting of phosphorus and potassium. Spray chemicals regularly to control pests and diseases, especially to prevent damage from leaf miners.
Make full use of the period from after flowering until the branches and leaves wither and yellow to allow Ranunculus asiaticus to grow normally, manufacture more nutrients to supply the underground tubers, promote their enlargement, and develop them into plump and substantial form. After summer begins and the temperature rises, stop fertilizing and watering. When the branches and leaves are completely withered and yellow, choose 2 to 3 consecutive sunny days to harvest the tubers. To avoid damage, dig them up carefully one by one. After harvesting, the tubers should be rinsed, sterilized and disinfected, dried, and then stored until autumn planting.
Early flowering
When the seedlings grow 3 to 4 leaves, transplant them into flower pots with a diameter of 16 cm. The potting soil can be prepared with 40% leaf mold, 30% vegetable garden soil, 25% coarse sand, and 5% wood ash. After planting, water thoroughly and place in a semi-shaded environment for normal management. After "Frost's Descent," the weather gradually turns cold. In the north, it should be moved into a low-temperature greenhouse (or an indoor balcony), with the temperature kept at 10-20°C, and not exceeding 30°C. If the temperature is too high, the leaves turn yellow and the tubers easily rot.
Ranunculus asiaticus is a fertilizer-loving flower, so topdressing should be frequent during cultivation. Topdress once every week, preferably alternating organic and inorganic fertilizers. That is, use dilute chicken and pig manure extract the first time, 3‰ potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution the second time, and organic fertilizer the third time, alternating in this way, which greatly promotes flower bud differentiation. If the early bud stage happens to occur about half a month before Spring Festival, then it is sure to bloom beautifully during Spring Festival. If buds appear too early, move the pot to a low-temperature place (7°C-10°C) for control. To enlarge the flowers and improve the ornamental effect, in the early bud stage, keep only 3-5 healthy buds per plant and remove the rest. After flowering, also promptly cut off spent flowers to help concentrate nutrients for more flowering.
Propagation methods of Ranunculus asiaticus
Division propagation: From September to October, separate the tubers with root crowns and plant them with 3-4 roots as one plant. Dig up field-grown or depotted mother plants, gently shake off the soil. Cover with soil not too deeply; just bury the tubers. Sow in the open field in autumn. The temperature should not exceed 20°C. At around 10°C, they can germinate in about 20 days. After the seedlings are transplanted, move them to a cold frame or plastic greenhouse for cultivation. They can bloom in early spring of the following year.
Ranunculus asiaticus can also be propagated by sowing, but the variation is relatively great.
Cut at any time after flowering
Remove spent flowers, then apply liquid fertilizer 1 to 2 times. Following the natural growth posture, divide into groups of 3 to 4 small tubers, and note that the upper end must carry a portion of root crown when separated. Plant in flower pots with an inner diameter of 15 cm to 20 cm. Each pot can hold 1 to 2 groups of tubers. When potting, cover with shallow soil, just enough to cover the root crown, then water thoroughly and place in a loosely shaded place. In late autumn, move into a low-temperature room for continued care, and it can bloom in March.
Fertilize to nourish the roots, and control water appropriately so they safely enter summer dormancy.
Seed harvesting
To collect high-quality seeds, select good seed mother plants and strengthen fertilizer and water management. When the first flower's petals fall and form a green aggregate fruit made of tightly arranged achenes, remove the remaining flowers and buds so that nutrients are concentrated and plump seeds grow. From May to June, the aboveground branches and leaves of Ranunculus asiaticus turn yellow and withered, the aggregate fruit changes from green to yellow, and the seeds have matured. Then pick the aggregate fruit with the fruit stalk, dry it in the sun, put it in a paper bag, and store it in a dry and ventilated place until autumn sowing.
Tuber harvesting
1. Pre-harvest management: The tubers of Ranunculus asiaticus have already taken shape before and after flower bud differentiation, but their growth and enlargement occur after flowering. At this time, if seeds are not to be kept, cut off spent flowers and remove buds. Water timely and topdress 1 to 2 times with liquid fertilizer mainly consisting of phosphorus and potassium, so that Ranunculus asiaticus grows robustly, manufactures more nutrients to supply the underground tubers, promotes their enlargement, and makes them plump. Spray chemicals timely to prevent damage from leaf miners.
2. Timely harvesting: When the stems and leaves of Ranunculus asiaticus are completely withered and yellow and the nutrients have all accumulated in the tubers, harvest promptly. Do not harvest too early or too late. If harvested too early, the tubers lack nutrients, are not plump enough, and during storage have weak disease resistance and are easily infected by bacteria and rot. If harvested too late, it is during the hot and rainy summer, when air humidity is high and soil moisture content is high, and the tubers easily rot in the soil. It is best to choose dry sunny days lasting 2 to 3 days for digging. To avoid bruising the tubers, dig them up carefully one by one.
3. Post-harvest handling: The harvested tubers should have soil and other debris removed, the aboveground dead stems and leaves cut off, and diseased, damaged, and disabled tubers removed. After grading by size, rinse clean with water and soak in 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times solution for 2 to 3 minutes to disinfect and sterilize. Then remove, spread out and air-dry in a well-ventilated place without direct sunlight. The spread layer should be thin to facilitate heat dissipation and water evaporation, preventing the tubers from heating up and damaging the buds or becoming moldy.
Tuber storage
After harvest, the tubers that have been treated and dried should be stored promptly. If simply piled up without any protective measures, dormant tubers are susceptible to pest and disease damage or adverse conditions such as high temperature and high humidity, causing mold, rot, and deterioration. Common storage methods include:
1. Ventilated dry storage method: Put Ranunculus asiaticus tubers into bamboo baskets, perforated cardboard boxes, wooden boxes, and other containers, with waterproof paper or padding inside. The thickness should not exceed 20 cm. Store in a ventilated, dry, cool, and rain-protected place. Alternatively, put the tubers into cloth bags, paper bags, or plastic woven bags and hang them in a ventilated and dry indoor place under normal temperature conditions for storage.
2. Layered sand storage method: Choose a ventilated and dry indoor place. First spread a 10 cm thick base layer of disinfected, clean, dry fine sand, then lay a layer of tubers, then spread a 5 cm thick layer of dry fine sand. Repeat in this way, one layer of sand and one layer of tubers, stacking 3 to 5 layers, forming a cone shape, so that the Ranunculus asiaticus tubers are evenly buried in the fine sand for storage.
3. Potted soil storage method: For pot cultivation, the tubers can be kept in the original pot soil to overwinter through summer. Cut off the aboveground dead stems and leaves, pour once with 0.3% potassium permanganate aqueous solution, and then do not water or fertilize again, keeping the potting soil in a constantly dry state. Place the flower pot in a ventilated, cool, and rain-protected place until autumn, when the tubers are knocked out and replanted.
For storing Ranunculus asiaticus tubers, both tools and locations should be disinfected, and the storage environment should be dry and cool. On rainy days, strengthen ventilation even more to allow moisture to dissipate. During storage, check regularly and promptly remove individuals infected with pathogens, moldy, or rotten. Adjacent contaminated tubers should also be taken out, disinfected with fungicide, dried, and stored again to prevent infection.
Sowing and seedling raising
The suitable germination temperature for Ranunculus asiaticus seeds is 10°C to 15°C, and the normal sowing period is October. However, in order to prolong its growth period, sowing can be advanced to early-to-mid September. Mix 1 part each of leaf mold, loam, and river sand, then mix evenly, sift, and sterilize at high temperature for later use. For ease of management, sowing boxes are often used. The method is: first cover the drainage holes at the bottom of the box with broken tiles, then add 1 to 2 cm thick coarse sand, then fill with the prepared sowing soil until 2 to 3 cm from the box rim, and level and compact with a wooden board. Pick the seeds from the aggregate fruit of Ranunculus asiaticus and scatter them on the sowing soil. After sowing, cover with fine soil, with the covering thickness such that the seeds are no longer visible. Gently compact with a wooden board, then place into a water container (or into a pre-dug ground trench and add water to the trench), so that water seeps into the box from the bottom and moistens the soil. Note that when soaking the box, the water level must not be higher than the surface layer of the box soil, so as not to wash away the seeds. Cover the box opening with shade netting and place in a ventilated, cool, and rain-protected place. Keep the soil moist. At 10°C to 15°C, the seeds can germinate in two weeks. In October, after the seedlings emerge completely, move the sowing box into the sun. When the weather turns cool, remove the shade netting and cover with plastic film for cold protection.
Seedling management
After emergence, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 to 1000 times dilution to prevent damping-off disease. At the same time, spray the leaves with a mixed solution of 0.05% urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate to promote growth. When 2 to 3 true leaves grow, transplanting can be carried out. Use 3 to 5 seedlings as a clump for pot cultivation or seedbed field planting, with a clump spacing of 10 cm × 15 cm for field planting. After transplanting, water thoroughly to settle the roots and cover with shade netting. After that, every 15 days, water with a 1000 times diluted solution of fertilizers such as urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate. In winter, move into a greenhouse and keep the temperature at 10°C to 20°C. In the following spring, as the temperature rises, cover with shade netting and strengthen fertilizer and water management. Buds can appear in about March.
Ranunculus asiaticus can also be propagated by sowing, but the variation is relatively great. Sow in autumn and bloom in May of the following year. Select healthy mother plants for separate cultivation, and keep only the first flower to set seed. The seeds are pure and plump; store them in the shade after harvest. When the temperature drops to around 10°C after autumn, sow in pots or in the field. They can sprout and emerge in about 20 days. If the temperature is relatively high at sowing, they may instead fail to sprout for a long time. Seedlings should be divided and planted in small pots before winter and moved into a low-temperature room for continued care. In late March of the following spring, move them outdoors for field planting or repot into larger pots. They can bloom before summer begins. From sowing to summer dormancy in the following year, it completes its growth stage, after which root division propagation is carried out. The tubers of Ranunculus asiaticus are relatively small and weak, so in summer dormancy it is best to keep them in the original pot in a low-temperature, cool, and ventilated environment, keeping the potting soil slightly moist. If too dry, they easily shrink; if too wet, they easily rot, so careful storage is needed.
Ranunculus asiaticus is native to the Middle East through southeastern Europe. It is suitable for planting in well-drained, fertile, loose sandy soil with a pH of 6-7.5. Ranunculus asiaticus prefers moisture, fears waterlogging, and is afraid of drought. During the growing period, it must not lack water, but it should not be too wet either. At the same time, avoid pouring water on the leaf surface, otherwise it will cause disease. Ranunculus asiaticus prefers a sunny environment and a cool climate, but the temperature should not be lower than 10°C or higher than 25°C. Ranunculus asiaticus loves fertilizer, so pay attention to topdressing during the growing period. At the beginning, apply light fertilizer once every 10 days. Later, as the seedlings grow, gradually increase the amount and concentration. The entire fertilization process can be carried out through irrigation.
Ranunculus asiaticus can be used as cut flowers, pot flowers, and for landscape planting, and its cultivation methods differ. There are two ways to produce cut flowers. One is to plant in mid-August, but the bulbs need to be treated. The method is to soak the dry bulbs in disinfectant solution for 5 to 6 hours, then place them in a room at 13°C for one week before planting. If done properly, flowers can be produced successively from December to May of the following year. This cultivation method is suitable for commercial bulbs with a diameter of more than 7 cm. The other method is to plant from September to November. Use 3 to 5 cm or 5 to 7 cm bulbs, without cold treatment. The planting bed width is 90 to 100 cm.
Ranunculus asiaticus avoids direct strong light. Potted plants should be placed in a loosely shaded, fresh environment, protected from drought, waterlogging, and smoke and dust pollution, and the potting soil and surrounding environment should be kept moist frequently. If the potting soil has high organic matter content, topdress only 1 to 2 times with dilute liquid fertilizer mainly consisting of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer before and after budding. After flowering, promptly cut off spent flowers, then apply liquid fertilizer 1 to 2 times to nourish the roots, and control water appropriately so they safely enter summer dormancy.
For bulb planting used in flower beds, the plant and row spacing is 15 cm to 20 cm. For pot cultivation, plant one bulb in a small pot and two bulbs in a large pot. In warm regions, they can overwinter outdoors, but in cold regions they need to overwinter indoors. The potting soil should be kept semi-dry to prevent bulb rot. During the vigorous spring growth period, keep it moist frequently, but during the flowering period the soil should be slightly dry, and apply liquid fertilizer 1 to 2 times. In summer, it enters dormancy. After harvesting, the bulbs should be fully dried and placed in a ventilated and dry place, otherwise they easily rot.
Disease control of Ranunculus asiaticus
Before planting, soak the tubers in warm water for 2 to 3 hours to help germination. For field planting, choose a sunny and well-ventilated location. During the vigorous growth period, water frequently to keep the soil moist, but avoid waterlogging, otherwise it easily causes yellow leaves. Before flowering, apply light fertilizer frequently, and apply fertilizer once more after flowering. In the hot summer season, the plant enters dormancy. The tubers can be dug up, mixed with sand, and stored in a ventilated and dry place, kept slightly dry, until autumn cultivation. During the growing period, if temperature and humidity are high, it is prone to causing leggy growth, yellow leaves, and stem base rot. The main pests include root maggots and leaf miners, which can be killed by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. For root rot, irrigate with 50% benomyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution.
Gray mold
Gray mold is a fungal disease caused by infection with Botrytis cinerea. It damages the leaves, petioles, stems, flowers, and root system of Ranunculus asiaticus, the entire plant. In the early stage of the disease, dark brown water-soaked lesions first appear on the leaf margins of leaves near the ground, gradually expanding and spreading to petioles, pedicels, and flowers, causing the diseased parts to turn brown or grayish brown, and the affected tissue becomes soft-rotted and necrotic. In the later stage, when the disease is severe, and under humid conditions, the diseased parts produce conidia and grow a gray mold layer, and the plant withers and dies. The pathogen overwinters on diseased residues in the soil. When environmental conditions are suitable, it produces large amounts of conidia, which spread among plants via airflow, rain, and fog droplets in greenhouses. Continuous rain, excessive watering, or heavy fog in greenhouses favor disease development. Excessive nitrogen fertilizer, poor ventilation and light transmission, poor soil drainage, weak growth, or many years of continuous cropping can lead to severe disease. If there is continuous overcast low temperature followed by clearing weather and rising temperature, gray mold is also prone to outbreak.
Control methods:
① Apply sufficient base fertilizer before planting Ranunculus asiaticus, disinfect the soil and tubers properly, and practice crop rotation.
② Strengthen cultivation management, ensure good ventilation and light transmission, and avoid excessive humidity. Reduce nitrogen fertilizer application, increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, promote robust plant growth, and enhance disease resistance.
③ Promptly remove diseased branches and leaves, diseased buds, and clear fallen leaves and branches, burn them in a centralized manner or bury them deeply, eliminate the source of inoculum, and reduce the spread of the pathogen.
④ In the early stage of the disease, spray the diseased parts and soil surface with 75% thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution, 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times dilution, or 50% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays to control the disease.
Southern blight
Southern blight is caused by infection with a fungus that forms small sclerotia, and mainly attacks the stem base of the plant. In the early stage of the disease, water-soaked irregular light brown lesions appear at the stem base. Subsequently, white silky mycelium is produced on the diseased part, gradually intertwining into rapeseed-sized sclerotia. They are initially white, later yellowish brown to brown. When the disease is severe, the stem base rots and necroses, the aboveground part separates from the underground part, water cannot rise, branches and leaves wither, and the plant dies. The pathogen overwinters as sclerotia in the soil or on diseased residues. Sclerotia can survive in the soil for several years. When conditions are suitable, the sclerotia germinate into mycelium and spread in the soil from diseased plants to healthy plants. At the same time, after the ascospores mature, they spread through wind and rain and infect the host upon contact. A temperature of around 20°C and relative air humidity above 85% favor pathogen spread. The disease worsens under conditions such as excessive planting density, poor ventilation and light transmission, continuous cropping, clay soil, or poor drainage.
Control methods: 1. Strengthen cultivation management, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, control watering appropriately, and avoid soil that is too wet. Production sites or planting soil should be rotated and disinfected. 2. Check promptly, and immediately pull out and burn diseased plants when found. At the same time, dig out the soil around the diseased plants, and scatter 40% quintozene around the diseased holes or spray and drench the rhizosphere soil with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times dilution to control disease development. 3. In the early stage of the disease, spray and drench the stem base of the plant and the surrounding soil with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 500 times dilution or 5% validamycin at 1000 times dilution to alleviate the condition.
Penicillium rot
This disease mainly occurs during the tuber storage period, and also occurs from time to time during the growing period. Infected tubers appear dark brown or black. When the disease is severe, the surface of stored tubers is covered with a large amount of Penicillium conidia, which easily infects healthy tubers. After diseased tubers are planted, they rot faster when humidity is high, and a large amount of mycelium grows on the soil surface where the tubers are planted, and the tuber tissue in the soil becomes rotten. If tubers are damaged at harvest or stored in places with poor ventilation and high air humidity, Penicillium rot is likely to occur and cause serious damage.
Control methods: 1. During harvesting, storage, division propagation, and other processes, minimize damage and protect tubers intact. Before storage, tubers must be thoroughly disinfected. 2. During storage, pay attention to regulating the temperature of the storage site, strengthen ventilation, and reduce humidity. Check frequently. If tubers infected with Penicillium are found, promptly remove and burn or deeply bury them. In addition, adjacent tubers must also be taken out, disinfected, dried, and then stored again to prevent Penicillium from infecting healthy tubers. 3. Before planting, strictly remove tubers carrying pathogen spores, mechanical damage, and insect bites, then soak in 75% thiophanate-methyl at 800 or 1000 times dilution for 10 to 15 minutes, dry, and then plant to reduce the possibility of disease occurrence.
Viral disease
The pathogens are Ranunculus mottle virus or cucumber mosaic virus. Symptoms include wrinkled and uneven leaves, mosaic patterns, chlorotic spots, or leaves shrinking and becoming smaller and thicker. Leaf margins curl toward the leaf surface or underside, petioles shorten, and growth becomes clustered. Affected flowers are distorted and deformed, becoming smaller and unable to bloom. In severe cases, diseased plants are noticeably stunted, shrivel, and die. Viruses often reside in tubers or seeds. In production, sowing with virus-carrying seeds or planting virus-carrying tubers results in a higher incidence rate in the grown seedlings. In addition, viruses may also be transmitted to Ranunculus asiaticus during the growing period by aphids, leaf miners, and mining flies, causing viral disease. If the seedbed is sown too densely or potted plants are spaced too closely during the growing period, the disease can also spread between plants.
Control methods:
1. Strengthen plant quarantine to prevent virus-carrying seeds, tubers, and plants from being introduced into disease-free areas.
2. Promptly pull out virus-infected plants and burn them in a centralized manner to reduce spread.
3. Strengthen cultivation management, fertilize and water reasonably, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, so that plants grow robustly and disease resistance is improved.
4. Spray 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 1000 times dilution or 40% omethoate at 1000 times dilution to kill virus-transmitting insects such as aphids, leaf miners, and mining flies.
5. In the early stage of the disease, spray for control with 68% virus wettable powder at 800 or 1000 times dilution, 3.85% Bingdubike wettable powder at 100 times dilution, or 7.5% Keduling aqueous solution at 800 times dilution.
Root rot
During the plant's growth period, if the soil is clayey and highly alkaline, or if adverse conditions such as low temperatures and excessive soil moisture lasting too long occur, pathogens are easily triggered, and the plant becomes infected with root rot, causing the root system to rot and turn dark brown or black, while the aboveground stems and leaves gradually wilt and turn yellow, and the plant dies. In addition, when the tuberous roots are harvested, conditions such as excessive soil moisture or compacted soil, mechanical damage during digging, undried surface moisture on stored tuberous roots, stacking too thickly, poor ventilation, and incomplete disinfection of tuberous roots before planting can also easily cause the tuberous roots to develop the disease. In the affected areas, the internal tissue changes from white to gray, the outer surface is covered with a layer of mycelium, and the tuberous roots gradually rot.
Control methods:
1. During storage, to prevent tuberous root rot, strictly remove diseased tuberous roots, then soak them in a 2% potassium permanganate solution for 15 to 30 minutes, take them out, let them dry, and then store them, while paying attention to ventilation and dehumidification at the storage site.
2. Before planting, the growing medium and tuberous roots must be thoroughly disinfected, and they should be planted appropriately shallowly. During the growth period, strengthen care and management, pay attention to drainage, increase light, and promptly remove and burn diseased plants when found.
3. In the early stage of the disease, drench the roots with 75% thiophanate-methyl at 800 times dilution or 50% benomyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution. For potted Ranunculus asiaticus, the pot can be changed immediately and the substrate replaced to control the spread of the disease.
Distribution areas of Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus is native to the Mediterranean coast. It has been widely cultivated in European countries such as France and Israel, and is now cultivated in countries around the world. In China, introduction and cultivation of cut-flower varieties began in the late 1990s. It is relatively suitable for forced cultivation in the Kunming area in winter and spring. Its flower colors are bright and rich, and its yield is high, so it is deeply loved by consumers, and the planting area is increasing year by year.
Uses of Ranunculus asiaticus: ornamental value
Grown for its flowers, with many spring varieties; flower colors include yellow, red, white, pink, orange and others, bright and eye-catching.
Landscape uses of Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus is divided into potted types and cut-flower types. Usually, dwarf or medium-height types are used for garden flower beds, flower borders, and home pot cultivation.
Cut-flower types are specially produced for cut flowers and used for indoor vase arrangements.
Flower language of Ranunculus asiaticus
Flower language of Ranunculus asiaticus: popularity
The flower of Saint Anthony, a monk of the 13th century AD
Saint Anthony, a Franciscan monk of the 13th century AD, always attracted large numbers of believers to listen whenever he preached Christian doctrine and the gospel, and he became famous because of this. The flower language of Ranunculus asiaticus is "popularity." The blessed birthday person has an easygoing, talkative personality and is widely admired, loved, and supported by those around them. However, precisely because they make friends widely, they often find it hard to form deep friendships, even with friends of the opposite sex, so it is important to remember that although having many friends is certainly good, having a close confidant with whom one can go deep is even more important.
Birthday flower of Ranunculus asiaticus
June 13 birthday flower: buttercup
Since ancient times, Christianity has had the custom of linking saints with specific flowers, which arose because when the church commemorated saints, it often decorated the altar with blooming flowers. In medieval Catholic monasteries, various flowers were even planted like a horticultural center, and over time the church associated the 366 days' saints with different flowers, forming the so-called flower calendar. At that time, most monasteries were located in Southern Europe, and Southern Europe has a Mediterranean climate, extremely suitable for growing flowers and plants. The buttercup is a perennial wildflower of the Ranunculaceae family. The figure commemorated is Saint Anthony, a Franciscan monk of the 13th century AD. Every time he preached Christian doctrine or the gospel, he always attracted many believers to listen.
Pictures of Ranunculus asiaticus
How to grow Ranunculus asiaticus; its flower language is fascinating charm
Ranunculus asiaticus (gen), scientific name: Ranunculus asiaticus (L.) Lepech., also called celery flower and terrestrial lotus, is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family and the genus Ranunculus. Let us look below at how to grow Ranunculus asiaticus.
Introduction to Ranunculus asiaticus:
It has rich flower colors, mostly double or semi-double, with a flower shape resembling a tree peony but smaller, and the flower diameter is generally 8 cm to 1ocm; the leaves resemble celery leaves, so it is often called celery flower. It is native to southeastern Europe and southwestern Asia. In 1596, the English introduced it for artificial cultivation, and it is very common in gardens and cut flowers. It is now cultivated in many countries, with more cultivation in the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, France, the United States, Japan and others, and many cut-flower and potted varieties have been bred. China began introducing it from the Netherlands, Japan and other countries in the 1990s, and it is cultivated in major cities as cut flowers, potted plants and spring flower exhibition flowers.
Flower language of Ranunculus asiaticus:
Popularity, fascinating charm
How to grow Ranunculus asiaticus——growth and development conditions
1. Water
Ranunculus asiaticus originates in Syria and Israel and likes places with more water, living in swamps and moist grasslands (in its native habitat, summers are hot and dry, and from autumn to spring it is cool and rainy, so Ranunculus asiaticus has the habit of growing and developing in autumn and winter, blooming in spring, and going dormant in summer). Therefore, its growth process has a high demand for water. If water is lacking in the early growth stage, the plant will be short, the leaves small, there will be fewer tillers in the future, the root system will be underdeveloped, flowering will be reduced, the flowers will be small, and the double-flower rate will be low; if water is lacking in the middle stage, flowering will be seriously affected, with small flower stems, a short flowering period, less vivid colors, and the leaves will also turn yellow; if water is lacking in the later stage, the plant will be forced into dormancy, and the tuberous root quality will be poor. However, as a tuberous-root flower, too much water also risks root rot. The water supply must also be balanced and appropriate; a single instance of excessive drought or waterlogging can seriously affect growth. Water imbalance can also cause cracking of the tuberous roots. The general pattern of its water needs throughout its life is: in the early cultivation stage it needs a certain amount of water, reaching the maximum at the early bolting stage, and then gradually decreasing thereafter.
2. Temperature
The minimum growth threshold temperature for Ranunculus asiaticus is -5 °C, and the minimum growth temperature is above 5 °C. Growth is fastest under conditions of a night temperature of 8 °C and a day temperature of 10 °C-15 °C. At >20 °C, growth and development are poor; at >30 °C, the aboveground part begins to wither. However, dry tuberous roots can tolerate fairly high temperatures.
Low-temperature treatment at the seedling stage has a significant effect on the growth period. Treatment at 5 °C for 4 weeks can advance flowering by 14-20 days under long-day, short-day, or natural conditions.
Although Ranunculus asiaticus does not like high temperatures, under long-term low-temperature conditions, especially when soil moisture is high, root rot can also occur. During the vegetative growth period, it is advisable to keep the day temperature at 15-20 °C and the night temperature at 5-10 °C. When the day-night temperature is too high, the number of flowers in the future will decrease, the double-flower rate will decline, the flower stems will become taller and weaker, and the quality of potted flowers will be seriously reduced. During the flowering period, the temperature should be 13-15 °C to prolong the flowering period.
How to grow Ranunculus asiaticus——tuber division propagation
The tuber division propagation method of Ranunculus asiaticus can be said to be the most suitable method for home flower growing. Propagation by this method has the advantages of a short growth cycle, early flowering, large flowering plants, and many flowers, and the greatest advantage is that cultivation is easy.
The disadvantages are also very obvious: the division propagation coefficient is relatively low, and the propagation speed is somewhat slow, so it cannot be produced in batch or on a large scale, and therefore it is only suitable for home gardeners.
The best time for division propagation is September-October. Take out the Ranunculus asiaticus root tubers that were dormant through the summer, remove the soil, and split them apart along their natural growth direction. Each piece must have a section of fibrous root and several new buds and small root tubers.
Soak the root tubers in a 1% potassium permanganate solution for 3-5 minutes to disinfect and sterilize them, then plant after briefly drying.
For Ranunculus asiaticus tuberous roots that were kept in pots and went dormant through the summer, in order to prevent tuberous root rot and to achieve uniform sprouting, after disinfection they should undergo sprout promotion treatment: choose a shady, ventilated, rain-sheltered place, spread a 5 cm thick layer of clean wet river sand, insert the tuberous roots upside down into the wet sand, burying only the sprouting part, with the rest exposed.
Frequently spray cold water to keep the river sand from drying out or becoming waterlogged; at the same time, spray once a week with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times dilution for disinfection to prevent tuberous root rot.
After the tuberous roots slowly absorb water and swell at low temperature, plant them when the buds begin to move and become rice-grain-sized and new roots have grown, about 20 days later. Planting should not be too deep; just burying the root crown is enough.
Too deep is unfavorable for leaf emergence; too shallow is unfavorable for rooting. Control watering before emergence and keep the soil moist; after all seedlings emerge, gradually increase the amount of watering.
How to grow Ranunculus asiaticus——seed propagation
1. Raising seedlings:
The normal sowing period for Ranunculus asiaticus is from mid-October to mid-November. Put the Ranunculus asiaticus seeds in water for one day, then take them out, wrap them well in gauze, and then place them in a constant-temperature cabinet to promote germination, with an optimum temperature of about 15 °C. Take them out every morning and evening and rinse them once each time with clean water, then drain the water so that the seeds remain moist.
About 7 days after germination promotion, some seeds begin to germinate, and at this point sowing can be carried out immediately.
After the germinating seeds are appropriately dried, mix them evenly with an appropriate amount of yellow sand, and then sow them into flower pots or a courtyard. Cover with soil made by mixing peat and perlite at 1:1, with a thickness of 0.2-0.3 cm being suitable.
For seed propagation of Ranunculus asiaticus, choose soil with good drainage, and carry it out in an environment with good ventilation and light transmittance. Strengthen protection of the sowing environment to avoid the threats of meteorological disasters such as wind and rain and of pests and diseases.
After sowing, it usually takes one week to grow seedlings. At this time, the soil needs to be kept moist, and water should be replenished in time to ensure smooth seedling emergence.
2. Planting out:
When the Ranunculus asiaticus seedlings grow to 3-4 true leaves, plant them out, at about mid-December to mid-January.
Ranunculus asiaticus likes a slightly acidic environment, so it is best to choose loose, fertile sandy loam.
Usually, garden soil, sandy soil, and decomposed cake fertilizer (chicken manure) are mixed at a ratio of 5:3:1, or garden soil, leaf mold, and decomposed organic fertilizer are mixed at a ratio of 4:2:1. The planting spacing is about 10 cm, and the depth should be such that the crown is not buried.
Growing Ranunculus asiaticus——precautions
Ranunculus asiaticus is suitable for planting in well-drained, fertile, loose sandy soil, with a pH value of 6-7.5.
Ranunculus asiaticus likes moisture, fears waterlogging, and is afraid of drought. During the growing period it must not lack water, but it should not be too wet either; at the same time, avoid pouring water on the leaf surface, otherwise it will cause disease.
Ranunculus asiaticus likes a sunny environment and a cool climate, but the temperature must not be lower than 10 °C, nor higher than 25 °C.
Ranunculus asiaticus likes fertilizer. During the growth period, pay attention to supplementary fertilizing. At the beginning, apply a light fertilizer once every 10 days, and later as the flower seedlings grow, gradually increase the amount and concentration.
Ranunculus asiaticus avoids direct strong light. Potted plants should be placed in a lightly shaded, fresh environment, protected from drought, waterlogging, and dust pollution, and the potting soil and surrounding environment should be kept moist frequently.
If the potting soil has a high organic matter content, apply only 1 to 2 times a thin liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus and potassium fertilizer around the bud stage.
After flowering, cut off the faded flowers at any time, then apply liquid fertilizer 1 to 2 times to nourish the roots, and appropriately control water so that they safely enter summer dormancy.
If planting Ranunculus asiaticus in a courtyard, the plant and row spacing is 15 cm to 20 cm. When potting, plant one bulb in a small pot and two bulbs in a large pot. In warm areas it can overwinter outdoors, but in cold regions it needs to overwinter indoors.
The potting soil should be kept in a semi-dry state to prevent the corms from rotting.
During the vigorous spring growth period, it should be kept moist frequently, but during the flowering period the soil should be slightly dry, and liquid fertilizer should be applied 1-2 times. In summer it enters dormancy; after the bulbs are harvested, they should be fully dried and placed in a ventilated, dry place, otherwise they will rot extremely easily.