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How to Propagate Geraniums by Cuttings? Detailed Methods and Precautions

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Geraniums (Pelargonium) originate from southern Africa and are widely cultivated around the world. They have a long flowering period and produce bright, abundant blooms, making them suitable for indoor display. They are one of the most common and finest varieties for balcony flower growing and courtyard planting, and cutting propagation is a common method of propagating geraniums.

Geraniums originate from southern Africa and are widely cultivated around the world. They have a long flowering period and produce bright, abundant blooms, making them suitable for indoor display. They are one of the most common and finest varieties for balcony flower growing and courtyard planting, and cutting propagation is a common method of propagating geraniums. Now let us take a look at how to take geranium cuttings!

Geranium Cutting Time

The best time to take geranium cuttings is autumn. In principle, cuttings can be taken in any season except summer, but autumn is best. After vigorous growth in spring and early summer, the geranium plant regains a full shape; after a semi-dormant rest through the scorching summer, as the weather turns cooler its vitality surges again, and the branches at this time are at their strongest.

Geranium Cutting Preparation

Geranium cuttings differ from ordinary cutting operations in that they require a preparation process. Choose a strong branch grown in the current year, find a node about 10 cm down, and 2 cm below the node use scissors to gently score a ring-shaped groove, not cut through. Be careful with the pressure, avoid cutting through, and do not score too deeply, otherwise touching or wind may cause it to break. Let the branch continue growing on the parent plant for two to three weeks.

Geranium Cutting Propagation

1. Cutting container: This is the same as ordinary cutting work, except in the choice of cutting container. Choose a transparent disposable plastic water cup as the cutting container, because the transparent cup makes it easy to observe the rooting of the cutting. Before adding soil, poke three small holes in the bottom of the cup with a bamboo skewer to aid drainage and ventilation. Put moist potting soil into the transparent plastic cup and press it firm; the cutting container and medium are then ready.

2. Cutting method: Use scissors to cut the previously selected cutting branch at the scored ring groove. After two to three weeks, the wound has completely dried, yet the branch is still full of vitality. There is no need to dry it in the shade again; simply insert the branch directly into the soil, making sure there are one or two nodes below the soil surface. After cutting, place it in a semi-shaded spot for about four weeks and it will root. During this period, water when the soil is completely dry, but avoid over-wetting.

The steps and methods of geranium cutting propagation, its cutting techniques and precautions

Speaking of geraniums, I believe everyone is familiar with them. Geraniums are a common ornamental flower, often used to decorate courtyards, offices and guest rooms. So, do you know what propagation methods geraniums have? How is geranium cutting propagation carried out? Today, the editor will introduce it to you in detail.

The suitable time for geranium cuttings is April to May or August to September. The specific cutting time should be determined according to the local growing season at the appropriate temperature (18-20°C). The potting soil should be loose, well ventilated and well drained. It is best to use a mix of one part each of sand, perlite and leaf mold, or medium-coarse river sand, mature soil or expanded perlite, all of which must be disinfected by methods such as exposure to the scorching sun before use.

Geranium cuttings can be taken in conjunction with spring and autumn pruning. Choose vigorous young shoots of one year's growth, free of pests and diseases, as cuttings, about 8 cm long. At 0.2 cm below the node, cut with a knife into a horseshoe shape. First let the wound dry before inserting, otherwise it is prone to rot. You can also dip the cut end in a little rooting powder, which helps promote rooting.

The lower leaves of the cutting must be removed, keeping 1-2 leaves at the top. If the leaves are large, you can also cut off 1/3 or 1/2 to reduce water evaporation. When cutting, first use a thin bamboo stick to make a small hole in the potting soil, then insert the cutting and press it firm with your fingers so that it fits closely with the soil. After cutting, place it in a cool place, avoid direct strong light, water once thoroughly, do not let water accumulate, and keep it moist.

Under suitable temperature conditions, it will root in about half a month. When the seedling grows to 15 cm tall, pinch off the growing tip to encourage side branches. At the same time, pay attention to watering with a dilute nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound liquid fertilizer, or decomposed dilute cake fertilizer and other organic fertilizers, to promote robust plant growth. It can bloom in the winter of the same year or the spring of the following year.

The above is all the content I have learned today about geraniums. I hope flower lovers will find it helpful after reading this article. If you want to learn more about geraniums, please continue to follow Duorou Huapu, and we will provide you with more related knowledge!

An Introduction to Geranium Cutting Propagation Methods


Geranium

Geranium is a flowering ornamental plant with especially tenacious vitality. It can stand tall and survive even under very unstable climate conditions, and it is currently one of the most common potted flowers on balconies and in courtyards. When flower lovers prune the branches and leaves of geraniums, they can use the excellent branches that are cut off for cutting propagation. In order to improve the survival rate of cuttings and avoid cutting failure, below is an introduction compiled by the editor about geranium cutting propagation.

I. The Best Time to Take Geranium Cuttings

Autumn. In principle, cuttings can be taken in any season except summer, but autumn is best. After vigorous growth in spring and early summer, the geranium plant regains a full shape; after a semi-dormant rest through the scorching summer, as the weather turns cooler its vitality surges again, and the branches at this time are at their strongest.

II. Choosing a Container

Choose different containers for different seasons, and they must not be too large. In summer, 50-cell trays are suitable; in spring and autumn, 72-cell trays; in winter, 128-cell trays. The most critical point is that they must be disinfected. The best disinfection method is very simple: rinse the container with clean water, then place it in the sun to bake for three days. Be sure not to let it get rained on during this time. Flower lovers can also choose other containers at home and soak them in disinfectant.

III. Cutting Medium

There are many kinds of cutting media. The editor suggests using imported peat; to save costs, domestic peat is also fine. First put the peat soil into the container and press it firm. Remember that pressing firm must squeeze the air out of the soil! This way the roots produced by the geranium will be very strong and the survival rate will also be very high. Next is the disinfection of the medium, generally treated by dissolving carbendazim in water. In summer, use thiophanate-methyl and mix it with a little more than the ratio stated in the instructions.


Geranium

IV. Choosing Thick, Strong Branches

From the stem tip downward, every 4 to 6 leaves, or measuring a length of about 7 cm to 10 cm, up to the height of the usual heavy pruning of the plant after flowering, pre-design the segments as several cuttings. Then, at 0.5 cm below the stem node, carefully use scissors to cut a ring around it or peel off the bark layer, with a width of 0.2 cm to 0.4 cm. Be careful to keep the branch still standing upright as usual. In this way, a branch that has not yet separated from the plant can form 2 to 4 living cuttings ready to be cut. After that, manage it as usual for 2 to 3 weeks, so that the ring-shaped wound naturally dries and heals, then cut it off. Next, place the cutting in a cool, ventilated place to dry for several hours. When the cut surface of the cutting is dry and has formed a film, insert it into a pot prepared in advance with potting soil.

The ring cut and bark peeling before separation, on the one hand, directly reduces the wound area of the cutting's cut surface, and on the other hand, most importantly, blocks the flow of the products of leaf photosynthesis, causing nutrients to accumulate at the base of the cutting while still on the plant. These nutrient reserves play an important role physiologically in preventing wound infection and promoting the formation of healthy callus tissue, and thus rapid rooting.

V. Cutting Management

Pay attention to the moisture of the medium: water when dry and let dry when wet (when the medium surface is dry and the plant is not wilting). Never let it stay wet all the time; better a little drier. Use a fungicide once a week. It is better to water in the morning. Light is relatively important. Except in summer, after cutting place it in a semi-shaded spot for 3 days, then place it in sunlight for the long term, just pay attention to whether the medium is dry or wet. In summer, it needs to be placed in a semi-shaded spot, with some sunlight in the morning and evening, and it will root in about 15 to 20 days.

Editor's tips:When choosing cutting branches, never choose diseased branches or poorly developed branches, and the specific choice of cutting branches should be based on the season. As long as the method is right, both old and young branches can be successfully propagated by cuttings.

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