How to Grow and Care for Potted Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa)
Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), also known as "Six Snowy" and "Falling Snow Mud," is a perennial herbaceous plant in the genus Sinningia of the family Gesneriaceae. The plant is small and exquisite, with lush green leaves and brilliantly colorful flowers, offering extremely high ornamental value for cultivation. It also has a wide variety of horticultural cultivars, commonly including blue, white, red, and purple varieties, as well as double-flowered and bicolor types.
Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), also known as "Six Snowy" and "Falling Snow Mud," is a perennial herbaceous plant in the genus Sinningia of the family Gesneriaceae. The plant is small and exquisite, with lush green leaves and brilliantly colorful flowers, offering extremely high ornamental value for cultivation. It also has a wide variety of horticultural cultivars, commonly including blue, white, red, and purple varieties, as well as double-flowered and bicolor types. Let's take a look at how to grow gloxinia and what to pay attention to!
Growth Habits of Gloxinia
Gloxinia prefers warm, humid, semi-shaded conditions and dislikes direct strong sunlight. It grows best in loose, fertile, slightly acidic sandy soil rich in humus. The suitable temperature during the growing period is 20-25°C. It is not cold-hardy; when winter temperatures drop to around 5°C, it goes dormant. Excessively high temperatures also affect normal growth; when summer temperatures reach above 30°C, the plant enters a semi-dormant state. During the growing period, it requires high air humidity but dislikes excessive water, so rainwater intrusion should be avoided. During the winter dormant period, it needs to be kept dry; if humidity is too high or temperatures are too low, the tubers are prone to rot.
Propagation Methods of Gloxinia
1. Seed sowing: Before sowing, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours to promote early germination. Fill a shallow tray or wooden box with a growing medium mixed from leaf mold, garden soil, and fine sand. After leveling the soil, evenly scatter the seeds on top. Moisten from the bottom of the tray, cover with glass, and under conditions of 18-20°C and adequate humidity, seedlings will emerge in about 10 days.
2. Tuber division: Select 2- to 3-year-old tubers that have gone through dormancy. In autumn, first bury them in soil, water thoroughly, and maintain a room temperature of 22°C to force sprouting. When the shoots grow to about 0.5 cm, dig up the tuber and cut it into 2 to 4 pieces, each piece must have one shoot. Plant each piece in its own pot, and each will form a new plant.
3. Stem cuttings: Stem cutting is a commonly used propagation method for gloxinia. Tender shoots often sprout from the tuber. When taking cuttings, cut 2-3 cm long sections and insert them into fine sand or expanded perlite medium. Provide shade, avoid direct sunlight, maintain a room temperature of 18-20°C, and roots will develop in 15 days.
4. Leaf cuttings: Select healthy leaves in the mid-development stage. Cut them from the base together with the petiole, trim off half of the leaf blade, and insert the petiole diagonally into a moist sand medium. Cover with glass and provide shade. Maintain a room temperature of 25°C and high air humidity. After 20 days, callus tissue will form at the base of the petiole.
5. Shoot cuttings: Shoot cutting propagation of gloxinia is generally carried out in spring when new shoots on the tuber have grown to 4-6 cm. Break off the excess new shoots from the base, insert them into a sand bed, and maintain a certain level of humidity. After a period of cultivation, they will bloom from June to July of the following year.
How to Grow Gloxinia
1. Soil: Gloxinia prefers loose, fertile, humus-rich soil with good water retention. It is best grown in slightly acidic soil rich in humus and loose in texture. A common mix is 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 3 parts leaf mold, plus a small amount of decomposed, sun-dried, finely crushed poultry manure. For potted gloxinia, a mixed medium of leaf mold, coarse sand, and vermiculite is commonly used.
2. Temperature: The suitable growing temperature for gloxinia is 10-25°C. Different seasons have different requirements: from January to October, 18-25°C; from October to January of the following year, 10-12°C. Suitable temperatures allow the leaves to grow luxuriantly and green, with large, vibrant flowers. When the plant withers and goes dormant, remove the tuber and store it in slightly moist sand.
3. Light: Gloxinia is a semi-sun plant and should be properly shaded at ordinary times, avoiding direct strong light. During the seedling stage in winter, it should receive ample sunlight. In summer, it must be placed in a well-ventilated shade house with scattered light for careful maintenance. During the growing period, light should not be too intense. During flowering, the shading time should be appropriately extended. During the winter dormant period, the potting soil should be kept slightly dry.
4. Watering: The flowers and leaves of gloxinia are covered with fine hairs, and once water droplets get on them, they rot very easily. Therefore, do not spray water on the flowers or leaves. It is best to use the immersion method for watering. Water moderately at ordinary times; too much water easily causes tuber rot, yellowing leaves, and even the death of the entire plant. During the high-temperature summer period, water 1-2 times per day. During the flowering period, rain exposure must be avoided.
5. Fertilizing: From leaf expansion until before flowering, apply a diluted decomposed organic liquid fertilizer once a week. After flower buds form, additional phosphorus fertilizer is needed. Be careful not to splash it on the leaf surface. After each fertilizing, spray with clean water once. From leaf expansion to before flowering, apply diluted cake fertilizer water once every 10-15 days. When flower buds form, apply an additional dose of bone meal or superphosphate.
6. Pests: During cultivation, gloxinia is susceptible to leaf mite pests, which mainly damage the roots, stems, and leaves, causing leaves to yellow and drop, and in severe cases leading to death. When red spider mites are found on the leaves, spray with 5% hexythiazox emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, which gives very good control results. Generally, spray once every week, for 2-3 consecutive applications.
Precautions for Growing Gloxinia
1. Avoid water on leaves: The flowers and leaves of gloxinia are covered with fine hairs, and once water gets on them, they rot very easily. So remember never to spray water on the flowers or leaves. It is best to use the immersion method for watering.
2. Water moderately in winter: During the winter dormant period, the potting soil should be kept slightly dry. If the temperature drops below 8°C and air humidity is high, tuber rot will occur. Also, during the flowering period, avoid rain exposure.
3. Provide appropriate shade in summer: High temperature and high humidity in summer are unfavorable for plant growth. Appropriate shading is needed, and the plant should be placed in a location with scattered light and good ventilation, otherwise the leaves will easily wither.
4. Do not soil the leaves: When fertilizing gloxinia, never let fertilizer touch the leaves. After each fertilizing, spray with clean water once to keep the leaf surface clean. After cleaning, immediately wipe the leaf surface dry to prevent rot.
How to Grow Gloxinia and the Benefits of Gloxinia
Gloxinia is an introduced flowering plant. Gloxinia has large, brightly colored flowers and a long flowering period. A single gloxinia plant can produce dozens of flowers, with the flowering period lasting several months. It is very popular. Next, the editor will tell you about how to grow gloxinia and the benefits of gloxinia.
How to Grow Gloxinia:
1. Suitable temperature: The suitable growing temperature for gloxinia is 18-22°C from January to October, and 10-12°C from October to January of the following year. During the winter dormant period, the potting soil should be kept slightly dry. If the temperature drops below 8°C and air humidity is high, tuber rot will occur.
2. Appropriate shading: Gloxinia is a semi-sun plant and prefers a semi-shaded environment. Therefore, during the growing period, avoid strong sunlight exposure; the environment should not be too dry either. In summer, place it in a shade house with scattered light and good ventilation, otherwise the leaves will easily wither. Watering should be based on the dryness of the pot, watering 1-2 times per day.
3. Appropriate fertilizing: Gloxinia has a relatively high fertilizer demand. From leaf expansion to before flowering, apply diluted cake fertilizer water once every 10-15 days. When flower buds form, apply an additional dose of bone meal or superphosphate.
4. During the flowering period, avoid rain exposure and keep the temperature from being too high, which can extend the viewing period. After flowering, if the growing medium is fertile and management is proper, it will produce a second batch of buds. After the flowers fade, if seeds are not wanted, cut off the flower stems to encourage continued flowering and tuber growth and development.
5. The leaf surface of gloxinia is covered with many velvety fine hairs. Therefore, when fertilizing, do not let fertilizer touch the leaf surface. Otherwise, it easily causes leaf rot.
6. Gloxinia is not cold-hardy. In winter, the leaves gradually wither and the plant enters dormancy. At this time, dig out the underground tuber and store it in a cool (temperature not below 8°C), dry sand for overwintering. When it warms up the following spring, replant with fresh soil. Tubers can be grown continuously for 7-8 years, flowering twice each year. Old tubers need to be replaced with new ones.
7. Soil: For potted gloxinia, a mixed medium of leaf mold, coarse sand, and vermiculite is commonly used.
Benefits of Gloxinia:
1. Decorating the environment
Gloxinia has large, brightly colored flowers and a long flowering period. A single plant can produce dozens of flowers, with the flowering period from April to November, lasting several months. It is an ideal potted flower for holiday decoration and for decorating indoor spaces and windowsills. Placing it on conference tables, in display windows, or tea rooms adds to the festive atmosphere.
2. Purifying the air
Gloxinia has a certain dust-removal effect, reduces indoor carbon dioxide concentration, and has a certain effect on purifying indoor air. Placing it in a living room is also quite beneficial for keeping the room's air fresh.
More InformationHow to Grow Lilies: Teaching You the Methods and Precautions for Growing Potted Lilies
Like all living things, for lilies to grow vigorously and ultimately produce beautiful flowers, the most fundamental requirements are: good quality bulbs, a suitable environment, proper management, and from the time you plan to plant until the flowers finally fade, you must always care for them and manage them meticulously. Only then can you ensure that the lilies will be as you wish, pleasing to the eye. As for whether you can make money, that depends on whether the market cooperates. However, flower enthusiasts grow them for their own enjoyment, so that is not within the scope of this article.1. Successfully ordering high-quality bulbs is fundamental to successful planting. However, since bulbs are not industrial products but agricultural products, and are also imported products facing various national quality inspection requirements, various problems will always exist. Regardless of which company it is, domestic or foreign, if they pat their chest and guarantee that your order (supply, supply quality) will have no problems whatsoever, they are definitely a fraud. Given this, you can only choose reliable suppliers to reduce the probability of problems with the bulbs.High-quality lily bulbs: firm, clean, with a good root system
A common problem with lily bulbs is Penicillium infection (as shown in the image below). If the infection has not affected the basal plate of the bulb, the problem is not serious.Freeze damage -- the bulb's shoot turns black (as shown in the image below). In severe cases, it can only be discarded.2. Environment: A common promotional phrase is "even grass has life." I remember a Dutch expert also said, "The water you can drink, it can drink too; the environment you can tolerate, it can too." "Even grass has life" speaks the truth. You must treat it like your own baby -- touch it, perceive it, and then adjust its environment at any time. Only then will it reward you with beautiful flowers.
1) Soil:
Soil structure: Although lilies can grow in all types of soil, it is very important to ensure that the growing soil has a good structure and maintains good drainage throughout the entire growth period. Poor soil structure and compaction often cause lily roots to grow weakly or even die from lack of oxygen, or poor drainage allows Pythium to run rampant, causing lily root death, ultimately leading to poor growth or even death of the lilies.
The image below shows the situation where heavy rain from a typhoon flooded the soil, causing root death from lack of oxygen. Of course, overly compacted soil makes the situation even worse.Soil pH and salinity: Maintaining an appropriate soil pH is very important for lily root development and proper nutrient absorption. If the pH is too low, it leads to excessive absorption of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese, and aluminum), while if the pH is too high, it leads to insufficient absorption of phosphorus, manganese, and iron. Everyone knows that deficiency is bad, but not everyone knows that excess is equally harmful.
Lilies are also sensitive to salinity. Excessive salinity produces roots that are hard, brittle, and yellow or brown in color, reducing the roots' water absorption capacity, affecting lily quality, and in severe cases even causing lily root death and plant death. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizers and water used.
The image below shows what was originally a very beautiful root system, but due to the use of un-decomposed organic fertilizer, the roots partially or completely died. Very regrettable.Soil-borne pathogens: Lilies often die due to soil fungi damaging the roots. Common fungi include Rhizoctonia, Pythium, and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia only causes damage while the shoots are still in the soil. Pythium can be mitigated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, it is very necessary to use broad-spectrum fungicides several times throughout the entire growth process, such as chlorothalonil.
The image below shows the damage caused by Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.From the above, it is clear how crucial suitable growing soil is for successful cultivation. If the soil is bad, no matter how much effort you put into management, you can only end up in tears. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has never been used to grow lilies before. Of course, the most ideal choice is peat (domestic peat is fine). To reduce management difficulty, using 80% peat with 20% perlite or pine bark medium is very wise. If you consider base fertilizer, using controlled-release fertilizer with a controllable release rate is most ideal. If you are particularly fond of organic fertilizer, be sure to use fully decomposed organic fertilizer.With such a good root system, how could you worry about not having beautiful lilies?
2) Temperature
Temperature during rooting: For 2-3 weeks after planting, maintaining an appropriately low temperature (10-12°C) to ensure that lilies grow good stem roots is very critical. However, most of the time, we cannot guarantee such ideal weather. Therefore, professional growers use cold storage for rooting. We can use the crisper drawer of a refrigerator -- wrapping lily bulbs in peat (peat should not be too wet; enough that a handful drips water when squeezed) (breathable) and placing them in the refrigerator's crisper drawer for rooting is a good idea. Although lower temperatures will extend the growing period, I think everyone should not mind managing them for a few more days.The situation of pre-rooting: in high-temperature seasons, root first, then plant.
Temperature during the growing period: Although the ideal growing temperature for lilies is 15-25°C, we cannot control the temperature in nature. However, we should still avoid extreme conditions. Lilies are prone to freeze damage below 5°C, and above 35°C, the growing period is greatly shortened and quality declines accordingly. In summers with strong sunlight, we can lower the temperature by shading and enhancing ventilation. How pleasant it would be to have cool breezes under the shade of trees in summer!
3) Relative humidity: The suitable relative humidity for lilies is 70-80%, but this is for professional producers growing in greenhouses. For those of you growing lilies in your yard or on your balcony, there is no need to consider this. In greenhouses, excessive humidity often leads to poor growth, but I have not seen outdoor lilies grow poorly even during continuous rainy weather (provided the soil drainage is good and fungicides are regularly applied to control Botrytis). Of course, minor effects will still occur. This is because ventilation in greenhouses is very poor -- a person entering would feel very stuffy, and plants feel the same way.
Here are a few images showing lily leaf damage caused by excessive greenhouse humidity.Due to excessive humidity, the water pressure inside the plant becomes too high, ultimately causing leaf damage from cell wall rupture. In severe cases, even the flower buds are lost. This is a physiological disorder, not caused by pathogens, so applying fungicides is useless. Using calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of cell walls and can alleviate the damage.Prolonged rainy weather makes the plant's leaves very tender. Also, because the plant needs to expel excess water from its body, the leaf stomata remain open for extended periods. Being open for too long causes the stomata to eventually lose their closing function (they normally open and close automatically in response to climate conditions). After the rainy weather passes, the stomata remain open and continue to transpire and expel water, ultimately causing the leaves to lose water, become papery, and even scorch.
4) Shading: Shading can control temperature, relative humidity, and light.
In summer, sunlight is usually very intense. For 2-3 weeks after planting (before bud emergence), you can shade 80% of the light. After buds emerge, since Asiatic lilies and LA hybrid lilies are sensitive to light and lack of light can cause bud abortion, you can appropriately reduce shading, for example shading 50% of the light. Oriental lilies are not sensitive to light, so you can still shade 50-70% of the light.
General Steps for Growing Potted Lilies at Home:
1. Preparation:
1) Growing medium: It is recommended to choose peat soil as the main medium for planting.
2) Fertilizer: It is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 slow-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate per cubic meter of medium as base fertilizer.
3) Pots: A 13 cm pot can hold 3 bulbs of 12-14 cm size; a 15 cm pot can hold 3 bulbs of 12-14 cm or 14-16 cm size. Choose pots according to your situation. Pots should ideally be at least 12 cm tall.
2. Receiving lily bulbs: After long-distance shipping, when you receive the lily bulbs, they will have thawed. Normally, they should have small shoots. As long as the shoots are no longer than 5 cm and not broken, even curved shoots are completely fine. Please plant them with confidence.
When you receive the bulbs, you can soak them in chlorothalonil at 600-800 times dilution for 30 minutes.
3. Planting:
1) First, mix the medium and base fertilizer evenly, and water until a handful drips water when squeezed.
2) Place 2-3 cm of the mixed medium at the bottom of the pot.
3) Plant the bulbs in the pot with the shoots facing outward.
4) Cover the bulbs with about 8 cm of medium.
5) Water thoroughly and place in a shaded area, avoiding sunlight as much as possible.
4. It is recommended to plant 1, 3, or 5 bulbs per pot. Odd numbers look better. If more than 5, odd or even numbers do not matter.
At temperatures of 6-7 months (June-July), shoots generally emerge in 7 days.
1. Medium: Peat soil2. Fertilizer: Controlled-release fertilizer, calcium nitrate3. Pot: 160 dual-color pot, plant 3 bulbs4. Planting
1) Correct planting method: The bulb's shoot faces toward the pot wall.Incorrect planting method: The bulb's shoot faces toward the center. Consequence: All shoots concentrate in the middle, which does not look good.Of course, if planted randomly, when the shoots emerge, they will be messy and disorderly, which does not look good. For potted plants, it is best to wait until the bulbs have 3-5 cm shoots before planting. This way, you can control the direction of the shoots, giving the plant a better overall appearance.
What growing environment after planting?
For two weeks after planting, lilies still need relatively low temperatures to continue developing a good root system. So for potted lilies, after planting, choose a location without direct sunlight. For lilies planted in the ground, you can use shade netting to block direct sunlight. However, whether potted or ground-planted, once lilies show flower buds, they should immediately be given light. Potted ones can be moved to a well-lit location, and ground-planted ones should have the shade covering removed. Otherwise, it will affect the number of flower buds and flowering quality, especially for Asiatic lilies, which are more sensitive to light -- in severe cases, all buds will drop. Appropriate top-dressing can make lily stems thicker and stronger, especially in hot summers. However, note that the concentration should be weaker than usual to avoid fertilizer burn. For top-dressing, you can also choose a high-potassium lily-specific fertilizer 15-15-30 diluted in water at a concentration of 1000-1500 ppm, which is 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer added to 1-1.5 liters of water, mixed evenly.
Each variety has different characteristics, and flowering times also vary. However, temperature also affects flowering time. For the typical flowering time of specific varieties, please refer to the product information for each variety. Here, I want to remind friends in the northernmost regions: in the later stages of lily growth, if nighttime temperatures drop below 10°C, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering for Oriental lilies is about 100 days, while Asiatic lilies need only about 60 days. So, when choosing varieties, please select based on your local climate conditions and your own care conditions, to avoid having your lilies frozen right at the moment of blooming, wasting all your previous efforts. Wouldn't that be a pity?
Notes:
1. The earlier mentioned "wrapping lily bulbs in peat (peat should not be too wet; enough that a handful drips water when squeezed) (breathable) and placing them in the refrigerator's crisper drawer for rooting is a good idea" -- placing them in the refrigerator's cold storage for the 2-3 week rooting period. When you take them out from the 5°C cold storage, the outside temperature is at least 25°C. Can they adapt?
Answer: Yes. Professional lily cut flower producers take rooted lily bulbs out of cold storage, and the temperature inside the greenhouse is as high as 40°C. However, please provide shade in the early stage, and reduce the degree of shading after buds emerge. If you continue heavy shading at 80%, Asiatic lilies may abort their buds due to lack of light.
2. How to handle bulbs after flowers fade
After the flowers fade, cut off the spent flowers. Of course, keep the stems and leaves. At the same time, continue normal care. Generally, when the low-temperature season arrives (November-December), the above-ground stems will die, and the bulbs will remain in the soil. During this stage, reduce water and fertilizer. After spring arrives, as long as the bulbs have not rotted or been eaten by insects, they will grow and bloom again. For lilies planted in the yard, you do not need to worry about them. The next year they will grow well again, year after year, and more and more small lilies will appear.
3. Here are a few images of professional lily pot cultivation from abroad.★How to Grow Potted Lilies
Lilies are cool-climate flowers, meaning regions with a cool climate and large temperature differences between day and night are most suitable for growing lilies.
Lilies do not have the brown outer skin on the bulb that tulips have. Before being planted in soil, they must be stored at a constant 2°C, otherwise they will quickly develop roots and are prone to rot. So after purchasing lily bulbs from the market, be sure to plant them as soon as possible and do not leave them for long.
I. Prepare the Bulbs
The top is the shoot, the bottom is the roots -- do not plant them upside down! Some bulbs have not yet grown roots; look for the one with scales opening upward -- that is the shoot!
Before planting, the bulbs should be disinfected first. Soak them in imported carbendazim at 1000 times dilution for 20 minutes, rinse with clean water, and after drying, they are ready to plant.II. Prepare Soil and Pots
Lilies prefer fertile sandy soil with good water retention and drainage. Peat:river sand:perlite = 2:2:1. You can also use cactus soil. The key point is that you cannot use clay soil.
Since lilies are bulbous flowers with two layers of roots, choose relatively deep containers.III. Planting
First, put 10-15 cm of soil at the bottom of the pot, place the bulbs. If planting three bulbs per pot, place the bulb tops facing toward the pot edge, that is, tilt them toward the pot edge. This ensures that after sprouting, the plants are evenly distributed. Cover the tops of the bulbs with about 5 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a cool place for 1-2 days.IV. Care
Water: Keep the soil moist. From when buds first appear until flowering, spraying water twice a day (morning and evening) is sufficient. Also, water with imported carbendazim at 1000 times dilution twice a month.
Fertilizing: Generally fertilize once every half month.Common Problems in Lily Cultivation
1. Leaf scorch
Cause of leaf scorch: Caused by physiological calcium deficiency.
Conditions for occurrence: Prone to occur under conditions of excessive shading, poor ventilation, high air humidity, continuous cloudy days, soil pH too low, poor root system, etc.
Preventive measures: Improve ventilation conditions and increase plant water transpiration.
Provide light appropriately earlier to harden the seedlings.
Use root-priming treatment before planting, which benefits root development and calcium ion absorption.
Removing leaves (separating tightly clasped leaves) just before the leaf scorch period can also reduce the occurrence of leaf scorch.
Keep dry and avoid prolonged water accumulation on the plants.
Apply additional calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, which can be done through root fertilization or foliar fertilization.2. Root burn
Causes of root burn: excessively high salt concentration in the soil solution
A. The soil itself is severely salinized and the EC value is too high;
B. Improper fertilization, applying too much fertilizer at once, causing excessively high soil solution concentration;
C. Insufficient water and overly dry soil can also cause increased soil solution concentration.
Preventive measures: Do not choose soil with excessively high salinity; do not place high-salt substrate or fertilizer directly on the bulbs; adopt the method of light fertilization applied frequently, avoiding the use of a large amount of fertilizer at once, which causes root burn; check the root system frequently. If root burn occurs, water promptly and combine with foliar fertilizer spraying.3. High temperature has a serious impact on lilies, so high temperatures should be avoided as much as possible, including high temperatures in the soil and environment; anything above 30°C is considered high temperature.4. Common leaf yellowing5. Phytophthora blight
Preventive measures:
A. Focus on prevention, avoid continuously excessive soil moisture (especially avoid waterlogging) and excessively high air humidity, and try to avoid air humidity above 90%.
B. Disinfect soil and bulbs before planting; options include Dexon, fosetyl-aluminum-manganese-zinc, and hymexazol, etc.
C. Avoid continuous cropping in land with Phytophthora-diseased crops that share the same pathogen hosts, such as avoiding continuous cropping with baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae crops, cucurbits and other vegetables. That is: soil that has grown baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae crops, or cucurbits should as much as possible not be used again for lilies.
6. Root rot
Preventive measures:
Control soil moisture
Disinfect bulbs and soil with carbendazim, Dexon, hymexazol, etc.
Reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizer used, especially ammoniacal nitrogen, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer7. Fusarium stem rot
Preventive measures:
Disinfect bulbs and soil before planting; lower soil temperature8. Gray mold - avoid continuously high-humidity environments9. Blind flower (no flower)
Causes of blind flower:
A. Insufficient water and fertilizer supply: Lilies are a flower variety that requires a relatively large supply of water and fertilizer. In the early stage, the plant mainly relies on the nutrients of the bulb for growth, and in the middle and late stages, it mainly relies on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain plant growth. If the water and fertilizer supply is poor, it will seriously affect the growth and development of lilies, causing branches to be thick at the bottom and thin at the top, weak plants, and in severe cases causing blind flowers and bud drop.
B. Too high temperature: Too high temperature will seriously affect lily quality: lilies prefer a cool climate. If the temperature is too high, growth is too fast, material accumulation in the plant is low, and organic matter consumption is high, which causes nutritional deficiency and in severe cases causes blind flowers and bud drop.
C. Insufficient light: Insufficient light, overly dense planting, and poor ventilation affect the plant's photosynthesis, resulting in low material accumulation and easily causing weak plants or even bud drop. OT-type lilies are especially sensitive to light, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion.
D. Insufficient nutrients in the bulb: Bulbs that are too small in size, harvested too early, or stored too long will also have insufficient nutrients, easily causing blind flowers and bud drop in lilies.
E. Planting too deep: Planting too deep causes lilies to emerge slowly, consuming a large portion of the bulb's nutrients, resulting in insufficient plant nutrients and poor growth, and in severe cases causing blind flowers.
F. Poor root growth in lilies: If the lily root system is poor and its absorption capacity is insufficient, the plant will lack nutrients, and there will not be enough nutrients to supply bud growth. Bud growth will be inhibited, and blind flowers and bud drop can also occur.★Lily variety selection and planting methods
I. Basic introduction
Are lilies hard to grow?
Actually not
I am a bulb enthusiast, and the order I have arrived at after many years of cultivation is
Ease of growing: (common problems in parentheses)
Rain lily > amaryllis (expensive...) = freesia (lodging) = Portuguese squill (messy leaves) = crocus (degeneration) > lily (bud abortion and bulb rot) > narcissus (bulb rot, degeneration, slow growth) > hyacinth (stuck scape, bulb rot, degeneration) > tulip (bulb rot, bud abortion, one-time) > ranunculus (rot, in one word) > anemone (rots nonstop from the very beginning)
There are too many oxalis varieties to generalize; some are as easy to grow as weeds, while others are god-tier difficult
Gloxinia and cyclamen are better grown as herbaceous plants, so they are not included in the ranking, and bulbous irises are not widely popular, so they are not included either
It can be seen that lilies are not only suitable as cut flowers in flower shops; as household potted plants and perennial garden plants they are also very good
Most of the parents of lily hybrids actually come from China, making them truly Chinese flowers and very well adapted to our climate (except Oriental lilies, which come from Japan)
II. Variety selection
Order of ease of growing
LA > Asiatic (A) > Longiflorum (L) = LO > OT > Oriental (O)
LA is an improvement on Asiatic lilies, producing bulblets faster and with large flowers
LO can be considered an improvement on Longiflorum, with richer flower colors and stronger fragrance
OT improves the heat tolerance, propagation rate, and ease of growing of Oriental lilies
Fragrance
Oriental = OT > Longiflorum = LO >> LA; Asiatic = 0
The last two, the Asiatic types, are basically fragrance-free, suitable for flower lovers who dislike the fragrance of lilies
Longiflorum has a light, sweet fragrance, stronger at night.
The first two are strongly fragrant. Oriental lilies have the flower-shop lily scent. OT may be sweet or pungent. LO is a mixed scent of Longiflorum and Oriental, and the fragrance is very weak in hot weather.
1. Lily fragrance is generally strongest 1-2 days after opening, then gradually fades; it is normal for it not to be very fragrant just after opening
2. Lily fragrance is not harmful to the human body and will not cause allergies, but an overly strong fragrance may stimulate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people, causing symptoms such as dizziness and excitement with difficulty sleeping
3. Lily pollen easily stains clothing and skin. Do not rinse with water, as it will stick more firmly; instead, remove it with clear tape. Even so, cutting off the stamens is a good method
Main hybrid classifications and their detailed advantages and disadvantages
1. Asiatic lily (Asiatic)
Advantages: many flower colors, low plant height, many buds, upward-facing flowers, early flowering (2-3 months from planting), easy to grow, fast propagation, extremely cold-hardy (can overwinter outdoors in Northeast China)
Disadvantages: relatively small flowers (12-15cm), no fragrance, high light requirements during the bud stage, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion
Representative varieties: many; most can be chosen with confidence, and there are also potted types with a plant height of about 20-30cm
The potted effect of Asiatic lily 'Spring Field'; pot diameter 15cm, the right side shows the result after chlormequat treatment, and the far left is the original plant height
Actual pot cultivation cannot reach the nominal plant height (110cm); that is the height after two to three years of cultivation
SpringfieldTinos2. Oriental lily (Oriental), together with OT commonly known as fragrant lily, a flower-shop cut flower
Advantages: strong fragrance and large flowers (15-20cm), low light requirements, flat flower shape, broad leaves, and bold and gorgeous blooms
Disadvantages: some varieties are spindly and prone to falling over, not very heat-tolerant, relatively slow to propagate, late flowering, and lower leaves yellow more severely
Representative varieties: Sorbonne (the light pink flower in flower shops), Siberia (the white flower in flower shops)
Potted Oriental lily effect (the famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful; note that the leaves are fewer but broader and thicker than those of Asiatic liliesSorbonne3. Musk / Longiflorum lily (Longiflorum), also called Easter lily
Advantages: elegant and graceful flower shape, very easy to grow, moisture-tolerant, fast propagation, relatively poor cold hardiness, native to the subtropics, and does not require low-temperature dormancy
Disadvantages: only white (all pink and yellow series are LO hybrids; online shops all labeled them incorrectly this year), and pollen easily stains the petals
Representative variety: everyone has heard of the famous White Heaven, right?4. LO hybrids - recommended
Advantages: inherits the flower shape and ease of growing of Longiflorum, and the flower color and fragrance of Oriental; very easy to grow and propagate, large flowers (18-25cm), fast development, and no need for low-temperature dormancy
Disadvantages: under high temperatures the single flowering period is not long, buds are relatively few, color fades under insufficient light, and there are relatively few varieties in China
Representative variety: Triumphator is an outstanding representative and is especially recommended; one of the lilies that any beginner can keep alive (often sold out...)
Potted effect of Little Triumph; note that it is relatively tall and has large flowersUnder strong light and low temperature, the flower color is very intense5. OT hybrids - recommended
Advantages: inherits the excellent genes of Trumpet lilies (parentage includes Lilium regale from Sichuan and others), has richer flower colors than Oriental lilies, is heat-tolerant and easy to grow, has robust plants, and does not require low-temperature dormancy. The stems are very thick, the flowers are large (20-25cm), and the fragrance is rich; suitable for courtyards and large containers, commonly called Tree lily abroad
Disadvantages: often not many flowers in the first year, some varieties have flowers so large they are deformed, and flowers easily droop
Representative varieties: Conca D'or, Yelloween, Nymph; the colors cover a wide range, especially the yellow series that Oriental lilies lack
Note: except for Yelloween, yellow varieties generally have relatively few buds; even a 16-18cm bulb has only two to three buds
A perennial Conca D'or; note the height and number of flowersYelloween, large flowers with a rich fruity sweet fragrance6. LA hybrids - recommended
Advantages: propagates even more crazily than Asiatic lilies, large flowers, some varieties have a light fragrance; this type likes to multiply bulbs madly and is not as prone to bud abortion as Asiatic lilies
Disadvantages: like Asiatic lilies, the flower shape is relatively stiff, flowers are prone to deformity, and the number of flowers is often fewer than Asiatic lilies
Representative varieties: Red Alert, Diamond Party, etc.; basically any can be chosen, with no taboos
Potted effect of Red Alert; compared with Asiatic lilies, the flowers are larger and the leaves broader. The Longiflorum flower shape was not inherited, and the fragrance comes and goesRed Alert7. Edible lilies
The most common is often the Chinese native species Lilium lancifolium; the plant is tall and slender, with recurved petals; easy to grow, but not suitable for indoors
Its ornamental value may not be as good as Dutch hybrids; it is one of the parents of Asiatic lilies
A very distinctive recurved, drooping flower type
Sometimes used by unscrupulous sellers to pass it off as fragrant lily8. Double-flowered lilies
Divided into Asiatic and Oriental types; characteristics and care are the same as above; rather like double amaryllis, while the distinctive features of lilies are not strong, easily deformed, and petalization is incompleteIII. Indoor care
1. Light
Not very demanding; an enclosed balcony can also be used for growing, and east, west, and south exposures are all fine
At least 3 hours of direct light, with 4-6 hours being better
The fierce sun from the west may scorch Oriental lily leaves, so moderate protection should be used
Note that when Asiatic lily buds are the size of a peanut, they must not lack light, otherwise bud abortion will occur
2. Soil quality; this is the most important, and water and air permeability are the first principles
I use peat and perlite, but the materials are actually not limited; as long as it is loose, airy, and lightweight to prevent bulb rot
Peat (sphagnum peat, sterilized nutrient soil, compost soil, coconut coir): perlite (or various granular growing media) = 2:1 to 1:1
The soil near the bulb can have more perlite added, which gives more peace of mind
Slow-release fertilizer/organic fertilizer can be evenly mixed into the soil mix; do not pile it all at the bottom of the bulb, as it will not be absorbed and easily causes bulb rot
3. Water
Except that Oriental lilies are best kept evenly moist, the other varieties are very drought-tolerant (especially when planted in the ground), so it is better to err on the side of less than too much; waiting until the pot feels light or the surface soil is completely dry before watering is fine
For each watering, you can rely on lifting the pot to judge its weight, and water thoroughly when it becomes light
The signs of overwatering are bulb rot, a large number of lower leaves turning yellow and falling off, scorched buds, and scorched yellow top leaves; if any one appears, be on guard
Underwatering rarely occurs, because bulbs and fleshy stems can store water, so if wilting is seen, first suspect bulb rot rather than lack of water
4. Fertilizer and bulb nurturing
Lilies like fertilizer, but fertilizer should be applied lightly and frequently; heavy fertilizer causes leaf burn (scorched leaf tips, dead buds)
If growing for only one season, fertilization is unnecessary
If you want them to bloom again year after year, then fertilizing after flowering is very important, mainly with nitrogen and potassium fertilizer
The nutrient absorption ratio of lilies: nitrogen: phosphorus: potassium = 10:1:12, but phosphorus fertilizer is easily fixed and difficult to absorb, so using fertilizer at a ratio of 1:1:1 or 1:1:1.5 is sufficient
Remember to use light fertilizer frequently: just add a little with each watering. There is no need for heavy fertilizer treatment; its fertilizer needs are lower than those of other bulbs.
Do not fertilize when sprouting. During rapid growth, use mainly nitrogen fertilizer. When flower buds appear, use mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Do not fertilize during the flowering period. Start nourishing the bulb immediately after flowering. The fertilizer ratios are as described above.
5.pH
The soil for Oriental lilies is best slightly acidic (5.5-6); peat itself is acidic enough.
Other varieties have no restrictions.
6. Temperature
Lilies are actually spring-planted bulbs: plant in spring, flower in summer, nourish in autumn, store in winter (for most regions nationwide).
For the Guangdong and Guangxi regions, which are very hot and humid in summer, as well as Hong Kong, China and Taiwan, China, you can consider cold storage in summer, planting in autumn, and viewing flowers in winter and spring.
When rooting in spring, keep the temperature at around 12 degrees, which is most favorable for stem root growth.
In summer, take care to protect against high-temperature damage. Low temperatures can extend the flowering period. OT lilies are very heat-tolerant, so they can bloom under the blazing sun, while the flowers of Oriental lilies often wither rapidly when the sunlight is strongest.
7. Dormancy
When winter temperatures are low (0-10 degrees), they will go dormant (leaves fall and stems turn yellow; at this point cut off the dead stems).
Common Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies need a cold period of at least 1.5-3 months (4-5 degrees) before they can begin the next year's growth.
Lilies with trumpet (LO, LA, L) and trumpet (T) genes can be planted year-round, with no need to deliberately create a cold period; it is only necessary for winter temperatures to be below 20 degrees.
Natural low temperatures can be replaced by refrigeration in a refrigerator at 4 degrees.
Heat-intolerant varieties may go dormant 1-2 months after flowering, but early dormancy is unfavorable for nourishing the bulb and reblooming. Even more, do not cut off the stems and leaves as soon as flowering ends.
Leaves falling early and dormancy often mean bulb rot or severely unfavorable conditions.
8. How to Plant
There is no need to soak them in a disinfecting bath.
For basal roots (the old roots at the bottom of the bulb), keep them as much as possible; parts with severe rot can be cut off.
There must be at least 5 cm of soil above the top of the lily bulb to the soil surface. Bulbs should be at least 2-3 cm apart from each other. The shoot tip should lean slightly toward the pot wall rather than the center of the pot.
9. Planting Depth
Lilies have two layers of roots. The ones below the bulb are basal roots (which can remain functional for several years), with a relatively weak absorption function. The bulbs you receive often have basal roots that are rotten and broken, so there is no need to worry.
The base of the newly sprouted shoot will produce several layers of dense, pure white roots called stem roots (annual), and these are the main force for absorbing nutrients. Therefore, the top of the bulb must not be placed at the soil surface.
Moderate deep planting helps avoid heat damage and nourish the bulb.
So the formula is drainage layer + 3-5 cm bottom soil + bulb + 5-10 cm covering soil. Very simple, right~ The pot should be at least 15 cm tall.
Water thoroughly for root setting, then wait patiently. Do not dig around. After the shoots break through the soil, resume normal care.
As shown in the figure.Here is an updated beginner planting method: "adding soil in stages - different from the old planting method of adding all the soil at once."
I forgot to mention this earlier.
When planting lilies for the first time, you can let the soil cover only the lily bulb, and not add soil on top at first, leaving 8-10 cm of space above the soil surface for adding more soil later. Water thoroughly, wait for the shoot to emerge from the top of the bulb, then gradually add soil to the normal depth (5-10 cm from the top of the bulb to the soil surface).
The advantage is that it satisfies everyone's curious and impatient mindset, avoids the worry of being afraid the bulb will not sprout and wanting to dig it up but not daring to, and at the same time allows you to adjust the direction of the shoot when it grows, so that the shoot does not emerge crookedly from deep in the soil and look unattractive. The first watering is also easier to do thoroughly. (For reference only; this method will not interfere with stem root growth.)
10. After Flowering and Dormancy
After opening, they can be cut for vase display. They generally fade in 5-7 days. They can also be enjoyed directly on the plant. The cut length should not exceed 1/3 of the plant height (at least 2/3 must remain; the more left, the better, otherwise what will you use to nourish the bulb?). The stamens can be removed to prevent staining the petals.
After flowering, remove spent flowers to prevent seed formation.
Try not to force dormancy. Following the lily's own rhythm in this way is best for achieving good reblooming results and multiplication rates.
During dormancy, store in the original pot and hardly water at all. Give a little water each month to keep the peat slightly moist.
In hot summer regions, bulbs can be dug up in spring, put in the refrigerator, and planted in autumn.
For Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies, new shoots will emerge around February-March of the following year when temperatures rise.
Trumpet lilies may also sprout in autumn; let them grow and bloom naturally.
IV. Courtyard Cultivation
This is very simple.
Planting depth in the north is 15 cm-20 cm; in the south, plant shallower as appropriate.
Asiatic lilies can be planted throughout China.
Oriental lilies can be safely planted in the ground except in South China and Northeast China.
OT, LO, and LA can be planted in the ground south of Liaoning.
Pure trumpet lilies can be planted in the ground south of the Yellow River.
In particularly cold areas without snow cover, branches, straw, compost, etc. can be used to cover them with 5 cm. If there is snow, there is no need to fear they will be frostbitten.
Cold hardiness: A > LA >> LO = OT > O >> L
A late spring cold snap may damage newly sprouted lilies, so some covering protection is needed.
Be sure to deep dig. Heavy clay soil should be ridged, and more organic matter should be added to facilitate drainage (the key of keys). In summer, when hot and dry, water occasionally.
V. Lily Propagation Methods
1. Bulb Division
When the main bulb grows to a certain size, the growing points naturally split into two to several connected bulbs (basically all at flowering size). This process begins after flowering and occurs every year. It is the simplest propagation method.
The propagation speed mentioned when introducing varieties refers to the speed of bulb division.
L=LA=A>LO=OT>>O
Oriental lilies may divide each year or may not, depending on cultivation and care. The first five types all divide very readily.
When there are too many divided bulbs and the shoots are crowded, you can pull them apart by hand during winter dormancy. It is very simple and will not harm the bulbs.
Asiatic lilies may send up multiple shoots in the first year. Such bulbs often bloom poorly, but after one year of growing, they become several plants.
The growing point splits into two, with the remains of that year's old stem in the middle.2. Stem Bulbils
These are actually small daughter bulbs produced on the stem roots. Their number and quality are greatly related to the quality of the stem roots and how well they were cultivated that year. After 1-3 years they can reach flowering size.
They develop faster than bulbils, equivalent to starting from the second growth stage of bulbils (basal leaves --- stem --- flower).
Asiatic lilies, trumpet lilies, LA, and LO are likewise outstanding in this type of propagation.
Especially LA: the stem bulbils in the first year are very likely to reach flowering bulb size.
The figure shows small bulbs around the stem roots.3. Bulbils
After Asiatic lilies and tiger lilies bloom, especially after bud abortion, they produce small bulbs at the base of the plant's leaves, called bulbils. When mature, they often root and fall off.
They develop in the soil. In the first year they only grow a single grass-like leaf, then go dormant in winter. In the second year they grow daughter bulbs and clustered leaves.
Then they go dormant again, and in the third year send up a stem and bloom. Although slow, the quantity is large.
When mature, they are purplish black.4. Scales
Very similar to the scale-cutting propagation of amaryllis. Remove healthy scales (or scales that accidentally fell off), insert them obliquely in disinfected moist peat or vermiculite, and refrigerate. After one month, small bulbs will grow and can be planted separately. The multiplication rate is high but slow.
The development process is the same as for bulbils.5. Seeds - not recommended
Not recommended unless you are an enthusiast. Aside from native species such as trumpet lilies and Lilium regale, most hybrids either have empty seed shells or grow slowly, and self-pollinated offspring will vary.
6. Cuttings - not recommended
Only applicable to Taiwan lily (Lilium formosanum) hybrids, which can root.
If the stems of cut LO and LA flowers are kept moist, they can produce small bulbils that can be separated and planted, but the stems themselves are difficult to root.
It is basically useless for Oriental lilies and others, so cut flowers from flower shops cannot be planted.
Lilies are monopodial monocotyledonous plants. Once the terminal bud is damaged, that year's reproductive growth (flowering) stops. Therefore, absolutely do not attempt pinching or cuttings.
VI. Common Problems
Basically, gardeners' problems are concentrated in the first two items.
1. Bulb Rot - control watering well; better dry than wet.
Caused by fungi, with waterlogging as the main trigger. By the time it is discovered, it is often too late. If the basal plate is intact, peel off the rotten scales and store after disinfection.
Symptoms vary: yellowing leaf edges, falling lower leaves, plant wilting that does not improve with watering, blackening buds on OT, LO, LA, etc., and obvious growth stagnation. All of these are very likely to be bulb rot.
2. Bud Abortion
Common in Asiatic lilies. The cause is insufficient light (continuous rain, being placed indoors). The phenomenon is that small buds turn from green to brown, then scorch, and they will not bloom that year. Continue to care for the bulb well. For lilies without Asiatic blood, the main cause of bud abortion is bulb rot.
3. Leaf Burn
Heavy fertilizer or unrotted fertilizer may damage the roots, causing severe scorching of leaf tips and withering of buds. At this point, flush the potting soil with plenty of water, and repot and replace the soil if necessary. Oriental lilies are relatively prone to leaf burn. Note that chloride ions and fluoride ions in water and fertilizer should be low (phosphorus fertilizers such as superphosphate contain more of them, so use with caution).
4. Breakage
Treat the same as bud abortion: continue to nourish the bulb. Lilies will not produce side branches. A broken terminal bud means they will not bloom that year.
5. Lower Leaves Turning Yellow and Falling Off
A common problem in lilies, especially severe in Oriental lilies and some Asiatic lilies. This phenomenon is not obvious in LA, LO, and OT. If it is not severe, it basically does not affect ornamental value, and it can serve as a reflection of the plant's health.
5. Pests
Not common. Occasionally scale insects, Japanese beetles, aphids, etc. may attack. Snails may eat buds, so protection should be noted when planting in the ground.
6. Gray Mold
Common in greenhouses with especially high humidity and during hot, rainy periods. Mold-like lesions appear on the leaves. Spray with fungicide to eliminate.
7. Off-season Sprouting
For especially vigorous varieties such as trumpet lilies, new shoots may emerge in winter near dormancy. Let them grow.
8. No Sprouting
This is what beginners fear most. Fortunately, unless it is due to bulb rot or shoot rot, this situation is rare. It is often because the bulb has not experienced enough cold to break dormancy.
In this case, you can put it in the refrigerator, and plant it once there are signs of sprouting.
9. Deformed Shoots, Double Flowers
Often appears in cold-treated autumn bulbs and is related to too long a cold treatment period. It generally does not affect planting.
VII. Selection, Purchase, and Storage
Each year suppliers have spring group orders and autumn group orders.
Spring is a good season to buy lilies. Various places are now taking preorders, with delivery periods in February-April.
The bulbs you buy are often fresh bulbs with very short shoots or no shoots.
In autumn, cold-treated bulbs (to break dormancy for autumn flowering) and pre-rooted bulbs (providing suitable temperatures for stem root growth in summer) are offered, with delivery periods in August-September. There are fewer varieties. Recommended for indoor planting in the north and for the Guangdong and Guangxi regions. When planted outdoors in the north, they often dry up in the north wind before they can bloom.
When these bulbs arrive, the shoots are already very long and break easily. Never handle them roughly.
Lily bulbs do not store well because they have no protective outer skin. Once dehydrated, they die.
During winter dormancy, they can be left in the original pot without taking them out. Water once a month to keep the potting soil slightly moist.
Those who must remove them from the pot can use a plastic bag filled with moist peat, remove the stems from the dug-up bulbs, bury them in it, and place them in the refrigerator's cold storage compartment (not the freezer!) for storage. Once dormancy is broken and they sprout, take them out and plant them.
VIII. Other
Pots:
The bigger and deeper the pot, the better, as long as drainage is smooth.
For home use:
For 14-16 cm bulbs, an 18 cm pot can plant three.
For 16-18 cm bulbs, a 20 cm pot can plant three.
You can also use a 15 cm-18 cm pot to plant a single one.
This is the minimum for pot use. The pot diameter can be increased as appropriate. Do not use shallow pots, for the reasons already stated above.
Bulb size:
14-16cm bulbs are mainly L, A, LA, and LO varieties
For Oriental lilies and OT lilies, you generally need to buy 16-18cm bulbs to guarantee the flower count
Bulb circumference has a big influence on the number of flowers; generally flowers start appearing from 12-14cm, and 18-20cm is exhibition grade; Trumpet lilies and OT lilies can be grown to a circumference of 25cm
Plant height:
When I first started growing lilies, seeing figures like 90, 100, 110, 120, or even 130cm looked terrifying
But that is the mature plant height that can only be reached after about two years of growing in the ground
Potted plant height comes nowhere near those figures, and modern hybrids have very thick, sturdy stems, so even with large flowers and many blooms they will not fall over or snap
(In the first year, potted plants grow to about 1/2 to 2/3 of the standard height)
In theory, strong light and moderately high temperatures make plants shorter and flower earlier, while weak light and low temperatures make stems elongate and flowering delayed
Asiatic lilies take 70-90 days from planting to flowering, Oriental lilies 90-120 days, and the rest follow the order starting with early A
Please learn to grow lilies with a relaxed, low-maintenance approach
There are now many lily-growing threads on forums, but fellow gardeners still treat them as far too delicate, fussing over every detail: how to mix the soil, how to disinfect, how to plant, how to water, whether to shade them or put them in the sun. Studying carefully is certainly good, but I think growing flowers should be a kind of leisure, about a calm and unhurried state of mind, rather than being filled with anxiety and worry. What meaning does growing flowers have then?
Being too meticulous in care actually makes it very easy to become over-industrious: you want to dig them up and look every day, water them a little every day, move them here and there, and the result is often too much water, rotted roots, and no flowers.
In fact, under natural conditions there is often a lack of water and fertilizer, pests and diseases run rampant, heavy rain pours down, and fierce winds blow, yet lilies still flower and set seed year after year, growing and multiplying. Leave them alone, and they will bloom beautifully.
★How to grow potted lilies
Growth habits: They like moisture and light, and require fertile, humus-rich, deep, sandy soil with extremely good drainage. Most varieties are suited to slightly acidic to neutral soil. Specifically, there are the following points:
Lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They dislike drought and extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor.
The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops; plants only grow normally above 10°C, and growth stalls again when the temperature exceeds 25°C. If the winter nighttime temperature stays below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
They like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and above all hate hard clay; well-drained, slightly acidic soil is best, with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.
How to grow potted lilies? Potted lily growing methods:
1. Planting time: Potted lilies are best planted in September-October.
2. Soil: The growing medium is best made by mixing leaf mold, sand, and garden soil in a 1:1:1 ratio, with plenty of fully rotted compost and a small amount of bone meal applied at the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer. The planting depth is generally about 2-3 times the diameter of the bulb.
The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulb easily rots. Potted lilies should be repotted once a year, with fresh growing medium and base fertilizer.
3. Fertilizing: Lilies do not have very high fertilizer requirements; usually applying fertilizer when spring growth begins and at the early flowering stage is enough. Some growers abroad believe that lilies need relatively more nitrogen and potassium fertilizer, and that during the growing period it should be applied once every 10-15 days, while phosphorus fertilizer should be limited, because too much phosphorus fertilizer causes yellowing leaves.
During the flowering period, phosphorus fertilizer can be applied additionally for 1-2 days. To make the bulb plump, spent flowers should be cut off promptly after blooming to reduce nutrient consumption. Watering only needs to keep the potting soil moist, but during the peak growing season and in dry weather it must be watered somewhat more frequently, and water is often sprinkled around the flower pot to raise air humidity.
4. Temperature: The suitable growing temperature for lilies is 12-18°C. In winter, even if the temperature drops to 3-5°C, they will not die from cold.
5. Light: Lilies are cold-resistant, light-loving, fertilizer-tolerant, and moisture-fearing. Lack of sunlight and long-term shading will affect normal flowering. However, they adapt widely to regions, and can be grown in the ground or in pots throughout the north and south.
Because lilies are bulb plants, they can also be planted directly from bulbs, requiring deep planting to six or seven cm so that the lateral roots can reach deep and absorb as many nutrients as possible. The growing medium should preferably be sandy loam, and clay and lime soil should not be used. If pond mud is used for planting, some river sand and crushed charcoal should also be mixed in appropriately, so that the medium is loose and airy and the plants can flower on time.
In addition, during the growing period of lilies, the flower pot should also be turned once a week. Otherwise the plant tends to grow lopsided, affecting its appearance.
★How to grow lilies
Lilies are undoubtedly a flower that many fellow gardeners greatly love. Many want to grow them at home to beautify their rooms, but do not know how to grow them. Here is a brief introduction:
Lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They dislike drought and extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. If the winter nighttime temperature stays below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers. Lilies like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and above all hate hard clay; well-drained, slightly acidic soil is best. Lily propagation includes bulb division propagation, scale cutting, seed propagation, and tissue culture, among other methods.
I. Lily growth habits
Lilies are bulbous flowers belonging to the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. They like an environment with ample sunlight and are long-day plants. Day length not only affects flower bud differentiation but also affects the growth and development of the flowers. Lilies do not like high temperatures and prefer a cool, humid climate. The optimum growth temperature for Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies is 20-25°C during the day, 25-28°C for Easter lilies, with nighttime temperatures above 14°C. Temperatures above 30°C will severely affect the growth and development of lilies, causing bud abortion, and the flowering rate will also drop noticeably; below 10°C, growth nearly stalls.
II. Lily soil requirements
Lilies require soil that is rich in humus, deep and loose, able to retain appropriate moisture but also well-drained; sandy loam is best. Clay must absolutely not be used to grow lilies.
Lilies like slightly acidic soil. The suitable soil pH for Asiatic and Easter lilies is 6-7, and the suitable soil pH for Oriental lilies is 5.5-6.5. Lilies are generally not salt-tolerant; the fluorine and chlorine content in the soil should each be below 50mg/L, and the total soil salinity should not exceed 1.5ms/cm.
III. Preparatory work before planting
1. Soil disinfection: Before planting lilies, the soil must be disinfected. The commonly used disinfection methods are steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. Steam disinfection is rarely used now because it consumes a lot of energy and is troublesome to operate. Chemical disinfection uses
40% formalin diluted to a 1:50 or 1:100 solution and sprinkled onto the soil, at a rate of 2.5 kg/sq m. After sprinkling, cover with plastic film for 5-7 days, then uncover and let it air and dry for 10-15 days before planting. Alternatively, carbendazim technical powder at 8-10g/m2 can be scattered into the soil for disinfection.
2. Thawing and disinfection of seed bulbs: After the bulbs arrive, immediately open the packaging and place them in a 10-15°C environment to thaw. After they are completely thawed, disinfect them. Disinfection method: Soak the bulbs in a one-thousandth aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, potassium permanganate, etc. for 30 minutes. The bulbs can also be soaked in an 80-fold 40% formalin solution for 30 minutes, then taken out and rinsed with clean water to remove the residual solution on the bulbs, and dried in a cool place before planting. Some domestic growing bases cut off the original basal roots before planting, which helps promote new basal roots.
3. Storage of seed bulbs: If the thawed bulbs cannot all be planted right away, they must not be frozen again, otherwise there is a risk of frost damage. They can be stored at 0-2°C, but for no more than two weeks; they can also be stored at 2-5°C for at most one week, and the plastic film packaging must be opened.
IV. Planting depth and density
For spring and summer planting, the planting depth requires the top of the bulb to be 8-10cm below the soil surface; in winter it is 6-8cm. Planting density varies with variety, bulb size, and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, they can be planted more densely; in winter, when sunlight is weaker, they should be planted more sparsely.
The planting densities for different groups and sizes of lily bulbs (expressed as the number of bulbs per square meter) are listed below for everyone's reference:V. Management after planting
1. Temperature: To obtain high-quality lily cut flowers, temperature control in the greenhouse is very important. Within 3-4 weeks after planting, the soil temperature must be kept at a low 9-13°C to promote rooting. Too low a temperature will unnecessarily prolong the growing period, while a temperature above 15°C will cause poor development of stem roots. These stem roots will soon replace the basal roots in supplying 90% of the plant's water and nutrients, so to obtain high-quality lilies, the development of the stem roots is crucial. After the rooting period, the ambient temperature for Oriental lilies should be controlled at 15-25°C, and the ambient temperature for Asiatic lilies and Easter lilies should be controlled at 14-23°C. If the daytime temperature is too high, ventilation and shading should be used to lower it; if the nighttime temperature reaches 15-25°C, the lily cut flower stems will be short, there will be few flower buds, and quality will decrease. At this time (in China) the method of spraying the plants with a gibberellin solution is used to increase stem length; the specific amount varies with different growth stages and different ambient temperatures, generally less at the early growth stage and more at the later stage. Winter temperatures in domestic solar greenhouses generally prolong the lily growing period and severely affect cut flower quality, so means of temperature regulation should be increased.
2. Humidity: The soil humidity before planting is best when a handful squeezed forms a ball but breaks apart when dropped. In hotter seasons, if conditions permit, water once with cold water before planting to lower the soil temperature. After planting, water once more so that the soil and bulbs are fully in contact, creating good conditions for the development of stem roots. Subsequent watering should be based on keeping the soil moist, that is, a handful of soil squeezed forms a ball but no water comes out. Watering is generally done in the morning on sunny days. The relative humidity should preferably be 80%-85%, and large fluctuations in relative humidity should be avoided, otherwise leaf scorch may occur.
3. Fertilizer: In the early stage of growth, flowering lily bulbs mainly consume the nutrients stored in their own scales, so too much base fertilizer does not need to be added before planting. One month after planting, some fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing according to the soil fertility. Lilies have a great demand for potassium, and a compound fertilizer can be prepared in the ratio N-
P2O5-K2O=14:7:21. Apply as a top dressing at 10 kg per mu each time, once every 10-15 days, until 3 weeks before flower harvest. At the same time, attention should also be paid to supplementing trace elements such as iron, boron, and zinc.
4. Light: Light is an important condition for controlling quality, and lily flower bud development especially needs ample light. Insufficient light will cause poor plant growth and cause lily bud drop, paler leaf and flower colors, and shorter vase life. When growing lilies in winter in northern China, due to the influence of glass or plastic film and other insulation materials, about 25-30% of sunlight is blocked, so in addition to keeping the surface of the glass and plastic film clean to allow good light transmission, some varieties also need supplemental lighting, which can be done with incandescent lamps. In good modern greenhouses, horticultural high-pressure sodium lamps should be used. When producing lilies in summer, strong direct sunlight must also be avoided, generally using shade nets for shading. Asiatic and Easter lilies are shaded 40%, and Oriental lilies 50%.
5. Carbon dioxide: Carbon dioxide is beneficial to the growth and flowering of lilies. On sunny days from 8-10 a.m., in an unventilated shed, apply carbon dioxide gas pills to increase the carbon dioxide content in the shed. Other methods can also be used, for example: hang a plastic bucket every 15-20 m (with the bucket 1 m above the ground), fill the bucket with a 20% sodium bicarbonate solution (the common household baking soda is sodium bicarbonate), then gradually pour the prepared 10% dilute sulfuric acid solution into each plastic bucket in 3-4 portions; the sodium bicarbonate reacts with the sulfuric acid to produce carbon dioxide gas. A solar greenhouse 60 m long and 7 m wide requires 1.7 kg of pure sodium bicarbonate and 1 kg of concentrated sulfuric acid (at 98% concentration).
VI. Harvesting and storage of lily cut flowers
1. Harvesting: Harvest only after at least 2-3 flower buds have shown color. Harvesting too early affects flower color, making the flowers look pale and unsightly, and some flower buds will not open. Harvesting too late will make post-harvest handling and packaging difficult, the petals will be soiled by pollen, and already-open flowers will release ethylene, greatly shortening the vase life of the flowers.
2. Handling: After harvesting, remove the lower 10 cm of leaves, then grade and bundle. Grading in 10 cm increments is appropriate. For lilies bundled in one bunch, the longest and shortest stems should preferably differ by no more than 5 cm, with the flower tops aligned.
3. Storage: After bundling, lilies should immediately be placed in clean, pre-cooled water, then put into a cold storage room. The temperature of the water and the cold storage room should preferably be 2-3°C.
VII. Common lily pests and diseases and their control methods
1. Lily fungal diseases
(1) Blue mold
Symptoms: During storage, white spots grow on the rotting spots on the scales, then fluffy greenish-blue patches grow. After infection, the rot will gradually increase even at a low temperature of -2°C. The pathogen will eventually invade the basal plate of the bulb, making the bulb worthless or causing the plant to grow slowly. Although infected bulbs look unhealthy, as long as the basal plate of the bulb is intact, plant growth during the planting period will not be affected. After planting, the infection will not transfer to the stem, nor will it infect the plant from the soil.
Control: Store the bulbs at the recommended minimum temperature; do not plant bulbs whose basal plate has already been invaded. Diseased bulbs must be soaked in a one-thousandth aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, or other fungicides for 30 minutes before planting. After planting, maintain a suitable soil temperature.
(2) Bulb and scale rot and stem diseases caused by Fusarium
Symptoms: Plants with bulb and scale rot grow very slowly, and the leaves are pale green. Underground, brown spots appear at the top of the scales, on the sides, or where the scales join the basal plate; these spots gradually begin to rot. If the basal plate stem is infected, the entire bulb will rot. The stem disease caused by Fusarium is a disease that infects the aboveground parts. The identifying sign is that the basal leaves turn yellow before maturity, and the yellowed leaves turn brown and fall off. On the underground part of the stem, orange to dark brown spots appear, which then enlarge and finally spread into the interior of the stem. Later the stem rots, and finally the plant dies before maturity:
Control: a. Disinfect infected soil; b. Plant lightly or moderately infected bulbs as quickly as possible, and the soil temperature should be low.
(3) Rhizoctonia
Symptoms: If the infection is mild, it only harms the leaves in the soil and the green leaves at the lower part of young shoots, with sunken pale brown spots appearing on the leaves. Generally speaking, although plant growth is somewhat affected, it can still continue to grow. In severely infected plants, the upper growth is hindered, and the white underground leaves as well as the lowest aboveground leaves will rot or wilt and fall off, leaving only brown scars on the stem:
Control: Disinfect soil suspected of infection with a soil disinfectant. After disinfection, the soil must be guaranteed not to be reinfected; if the previous crop has already shown infection, ordinary soil disinfectants cannot be used, so before planting, pre-treat the soil with a chemical for controlling Rhizoctonia (fully incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10cm).
(4) Phytophthora
Symptoms: Foot rot of the plant (Phytophthora) hinders growth or causes sudden wilting. Soft rot occurs at the infected area at the base of the stem, becoming dark green to dark brown and spreading upward; the leaves turn yellow, and discoloration begins at the base of the stem. Similar soft rot infections often also occur on the aboveground stem, causing the stem to damp off or bend.
Control: Disinfect infected soil with an ordinary soil disinfectant; during cultivation, fungicides that control Pythium can also effectively control foot rot; ensure the soil has good drainage conditions; prevent the crop from remaining wet for long periods after watering; keep the soil temperature as low as possible in summer.
(5) Pythium
Symptoms: This type of fungus attacks both individual plants and plants within an area. The plants are stunted, the lower leaves turn yellow, the upper leaves become narrower and paler, and they often wilt. In plants affected by root rot, the flower buds shrivel. When the plant is pulled up, transparent, pale brown rotting spots can be seen on the bulb and root crown, or they have completely become soft and rotten.
Control: Disinfect infected or suspected infected soil with an ordinary soil disinfectant; keep the soil temperature low in the early cultivation period, and adopt correct cultivation procedures throughout the cultivation period. Cultivation in boxes filled with potting soil and peat can keep Pythium under control.
After the crop has emerged, or in cases where Pythium infection may have occurred, fungicides for controlling Pythium that can be easily sprayed onto the crop can be used, preferably in the evening. Spraying water for a few minutes (about three minutes) before applying the fungicide will significantly enhance the effect of the fungicide, and can also rinse the crop clean.
2. Abnormal phenomena
(1) Leaf scorch
Symptoms: First, the young leaves curl slightly inward, and after a few days yellow to white spots appear on the scorched leaves. If the leaf scorch is mild, the plant can still continue to grow normally, but if the leaf scorch is very severe, the white spots can turn brown, and at the site of the damage the leaves bend. In very severe cases, all the leaves and young shoots will fall off, and the plant will not develop further; this is called the most severe scorch. Control: The soil should be kept moist before planting; it is best not to use susceptible varieties; the planting depth should be suitable, with 6-10cm of soil above the bulb; during the period of increased sensitivity, avoid large differences in temperature and relative humidity in the greenhouse, and try to keep the relative humidity at around 75%.
(2) Bud drop and bud shriveling
Symptoms: Bud drop occurs when the flower buds grow to 1-2cm. The color of the buds turns pale green, and at the same time the pedicel connecting to the stem shortens, after which the buds drop. In spring, the lower buds are affected first, while in autumn the upper buds will drop first.
Control: Do not grow varieties prone to bud drop in environments with poor light. To prevent bud shriveling, the bulbs must not dry out during cultivation. Ensure the bulbs have good roots and let them grow under conditions as suitable as possible, with particular attention to light and transpiration.
★How to grow potted lilies
How to grow potted lilies is what many fellow gardeners who want to grow lilies themselves want to know. Many articles online are very theoretical, leaving fellow gardeners unsure, so let us use an actual case to explain in detail how to grow potted lilies.
First, a brief introduction: Lilies are perennial herbaceous bulbous plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae, mainly distributed in eastern Asia, Europe, North America, and other temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. More than a hundred varieties have been found worldwide, and China is their most important place of origin, with more than fifty native species; it is the natural distribution center of the genus Lilium.
I. The materials needed for planting lilies are as follows:
1. Soil: Lilies are not very strict about soil, as long as it does not waterlog; ordinary garden soil is generally suitable too, and of course nutrient soil is even better. For the fussy, peat is also perfectly fine.
2. Pot: This needs attention. Lily roots are relatively well developed, so a relatively deep and large pot is suitable; small pots are not suitable! In the case below, a 2-gallon pot is used
3. Location choice: Some fellow gardeners may ask, is it okay if my balcony has no light? I plan to grow them on the rooftop terrace, is that okay? Here it should be said that lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They dislike drought and extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for lily growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops; plants only grow normally above 10°C, and growth stalls again when the temperature exceeds 25°C. If the winter nighttime temperature stays below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
II. First, a feast for the eyes
The bulbs in the picture below are lily bulbs just received a few days ago; they look pretty good, right! I got five in total, and will not post them one by one; hundreds of fellow gardeners on the forum joined the group buy!III. Planting process
First: I planned to plant my 5 bulbs in 2 flower pots. I first checked the colors of the bulbs: Siberia has 2 (this is because another variety was originally detained by customs and substituted), white; Marlon is pink. Yelloween is yellow, and Tiber is also pink. I planned to plant Siberia and Marlon in white flower pots, and the other three in 2+ pots, so they can look striking when they bloom.
Second: First clean the flower pots thoroughly, lay breathable coarse coal cinder at the bottom, and cover with soil on top.
Third: Sprinkle some phosphorus fertilizer on the soil (bone meal can also be used as a substitute). Those without bone meal can also use chicken manure as a substitute, to ensure nutrition for flowering.
Fourth: Cover with soil again; after covering, sprinkle carbendazim. (I carefully checked the root bulbs and found no mold. Fellow gardeners who received diseased root bulbs can soak the root bulbs in carbendazim before planting.)
Fifth: Cover with soil again and place the root bulbs in. You can use scissors to cut off the already dried root systems, then cover with soil. Generally it can be level with the upper sprout of the root bulb. Leave some distance between the soil surface and the rim of the pot for adding soil later; this depth is not enough.
Sixth: Water thoroughly, and place in a cool, open-air spot and that is fineIV. Troubleshooting during the planting process
Overall, lilies are very easy to grow. As long as you buy the right bulbs, the flowering and survival rate is almost 100%, and the growing period generally ranges from about 90-150 days depending on the variety.
1. How many lilies can be planted in one pot
It depends on the size of the pot. For a 2-gallon pot with a diameter of about 25 cm, planting 1-3 is fine!
2. Can lilies rebloom
Whether lilies rebloom mainly depends on the first year of growing. If they are grown well in the first year, there is no problem with them reblooming in the second year.
3. Are lilies very fragrant
Different lily varieties have different concentrations of fragrance. Whether a specific one is fragrant can be determined according to the variety description at the time of purchase.
★Lily cultivation techniques
Authors: Zhu Yunyi, Yang Ming
Lilies are bulbous herbaceous plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. Lily stems are upright and elegant, the leaves are emerald green, the flower shapes are unusual, the flowers are large and brilliantly colored, and the colors are elegant. Lilies carry the meaning of a harmonious union lasting a hundred years, and are very lovable. They are one of the bulbous flowers widely cultivated at home and abroad today. The introduction and cultivation of lilies in China are gradually expanding, and market sales are increasingly active.
I. Morphological characteristics
Lilies are perennial herbaceous plants. The seed bulb is a non-tunicate bulb, spherical, pale white, formed by the aggregation of several fleshy, thick, ovate-spatulate scales; the stem is upright, with stem roots at the underground stem nodes; the stem is cylindrical or rhombic-prismatic, and the aboveground stem is upright and sturdy, green and smooth, with a stem diameter of 3-10mm and a plant height of 70-200 cm; the leaves are scattered or alternate, sessile, lanceolate to elliptic-lanceolate, entire, with a total of more than 100 leaves; the flowers are borne singly in several leaf axils at the top of the stem, with 1-10 flowers, large, trumpet-shaped, with different flower colors and fragrances depending on the variety.
II. Requirements for environmental conditions
1. Temperature. Lilies like a warm environment with ample sunlight, are relatively cold-tolerant, and fear high temperatures, strong light, and high humidity. The optimum growth temperature for lilies is 15-25°C. Below 10°C, growth is slow; above 30°C, growth is poor and leaf scorch occurs. During growth, a daytime temperature of 21-23°C and a nighttime temperature of 15-17°C are best. However, seed bulbs have a dormant period and must be stored at a low temperature of 3-7°C for 4-6 weeks to break the dormancy of the seed bulb; only then will they sprout when planted.
2. Light. Lilies like soft light, and also tolerate strong light and semi-shade. Insufficient light will cause flower buds to drop. With ample light, the plants are sturdy, short, and the flowers are vivid. Lilies are long-day plants; long light causes earlier flowering, and short light delays flowering.
3. Water. When planting lily bulbs, the furrow should be filled with 3/4 water so that the water fully penetrates the bed surface. After that, when there is a lack of water, irrigate with running water, and just keep the soil moist for a long time. This can increase the emergence rate of the seed bulbs, make emergence uniform, and benefit stem and leaf growth.
4. Nutrients. Lilies are bulb cut flower plants that like phosphorus and potassium and dislike excessive nitrogen. Sufficient phosphorus and potassium help improve flower quality and the formation and plumpness of the bulb. Excessive nitrogen is unfavorable for flower and bulb formation, and flower quality is poor and weak. Fertilization should be mainly organic fertilizer, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, with nitrogen fertilizer as a supplement.
III. Cultivation techniques
1. Reasonably arrange the planting period. At present, lilies are grown in Hunan, Sichuan, Henan, Jiangsu, Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Zhejiang, Guangdong, and other places in China. We should make full use of the unique climate conditions of our southern winters and schedule the harvest period from late December to the May 1 holiday, trying to avoid competing for the market with lilies grown in other provinces, striving to sell at a good price and obtain greater income and better economic benefits. Lilies generally take 80-130 days from planting to harvest and market. Early planting (such as before the Autumn Equinox) means high temperatures, long sunshine, and strong light, shortening the time from planting to harvest; late planting (such as after Cold Dew) means low temperatures, short sunshine, and weak light, prolonging the time from planting to harvest. If they are to be marketed at Christmas, they should be planted in mid-to-late September; if marketed at Spring Festival, they should be planted in mid-to-late October.
2. Select the land, prepare the soil finely, and apply enough base fertilizer. Choose plots with deep soil, loose and fertile texture, high terrain, and good drainage for planting. Planting lilies in plots with half shade and half sun and slightly acidic soil is even better. Lilies dislike continuous cropping, so it is not suitable to choose fields where the previous crop was pepper, eggplant, or similar crops; leguminous or grass crops are better.
3. Build frames and cover with shade nets for shading. In order to meet the light, temperature, and humidity requirements of lilies during growth, and because lilies like soft light (semi-shade) and fear high temperatures and strong light, after preparing the land and making the beds, frames should be built and shade nets covered before the seed bulbs emerge. Shade nets with 70-80% shading are best. For planting from April to August, an additional layer of shade net should be added to lower the field temperature and light intensity, increase field humidity, avoid or reduce high-temperature and strong-light scorch damage to the stems and leaves, and promote stem and leaf growth. However, when the maximum daytime temperature drops to 26°C (generally in early December), the shade net should be uncovered to increase light intensity and promote stem and leaf growth. When the average temperature is below 10°C, nylon film should then be covered to increase temperature and retain moisture, ensuring normal lily growth and harvest and flowering as expected.
4. Reasonable close planting. Because lilies tolerate semi-shade, they can be planted more densely on the basis of applying enough base fertilizer. Generally, 12000-18000 seed bulbs can be planted per mu, with a row spacing of 15-20 x 10-15 cm, and a planting depth of 10 cm (at least the height of 3 seed bulbs), so as to avoid the sun scorching the root system. After planting, spray butachlor immediately to control early weeds in the field.
5. Field management. After the seedlings emerge evenly, before the seedlings reach 20 cm, in combination with cultivating and weeding, apply a topdressing of 500 kg of human and livestock manure and 10 kg of superphosphate per mu, or apply 10-15 kg of high-quality compound fertilizer (containing 15% each of nitrogen, P2O5 and K2O) plus 5 kg of urea. The fertilizer solution should be dilute rather than concentrated; if too concentrated it easily damages the roots and inhibits growth, so it should be applied frequently and thinly, once every 8-10 days. When topdressing, avoid the fertilizer solution coming into direct contact with the seed bulbs and plant stems, to prevent the bulbs and stems from rotting. If the fertilizer solution splashes onto the leaves, spray clear water immediately after applying the fertilizer solution to rinse the fertilizer off the leaves, so as not to damage the leaves and plants. However, when the winter temperature drops below 8°C, fertilization should be stopped and resumed only when the temperature rises again. After lily shoots emerge, deep ploughing for weed control should no longer be done, to avoid damaging the root system; weeds should be pulled as soon as they appear to prevent weed damage.
6. Water management. Because lilies like moisture and fear waterlogging and drought, the drainage ditches should be cleared frequently on rainy days to drain off standing water, and irrigation should be done in drought to keep the soil moist, ensuring that after a person walks into the furrow and steps out, footprints remain (but the feet do not sink), the surface soil of the bed does not turn white, the surface soil between beds forms a ball when squeezed by hand, and when released from a height of one meter above the ground the mud ball breaks apart on landing.
7. Timely prevention and control of pests and diseases. Lilies have relatively few pests and diseases. The main diseases are anthracnose, gray mold, damping-off, root rot and bulb rot. Anthracnose can be controlled with chlorothalonil, Score (difenoconazole), Rovral (iprodione), anthracnose Fumei, etc.; gray mold can be controlled with mancozeb, procymidone, 50% iprodione, chlorothalonil or 1% Bordeaux mixture; for damping-off, first remove the diseased plants, then control with 1% Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil, Tuzet (thiram) etc.; for root rot and bulb rot, before planting treat the seeds with 0.5% quintozene to prevent the diseases, and in the early stage of the disease drench or spray with 50% amobam at 300-500 times dilution. For disease control in lilies, spray once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. The main insect pests are aphids and white grubs. Aphids and white grubs often gather in groups on tender leaves and flower buds to suck sap, causing the plants to wither and grow poorly; they can be controlled with fenvalerate, omethoate, imidacloprid, Dagongshen, etc. When controlling pests and diseases, it is best to add some foliar fertilizer, which both controls pests and diseases and promotes the growth of leaves.
8. Harvest the seed bulbs at the right time. When the underground seed bulbs have swollen, are plump and full, and the above-ground leaves have turned yellow or even dried up and fallen off, the seed bulbs can be harvested; keep the root system on the harvested seed bulbs, remove all loose soil, pile them up by grade, and later pack them into cold storage for low-temperature treatment.
★ Cultivation techniques for Oriental lilies
As people's living standards improve, the sales volume of fresh flowers is increasing day by day. In 2007 we introduced Oriental lilies for cultivation in small batches and achieved success. The cultivation techniques are described below:
1 Soil preparation
Deeply plough the soil 30 cm, and per 667 sq m apply 2-3 cu m of peat or decomposed larch pine needles, 3-5 kg of ferrous sulfate, and 500-1000 kg of organic fertilizer such as expanded chicken manure, so that the soil pH is slightly acidic at 6-6.5; also add 1.5-2.5 kg of thiram or 2000-3000 ml of soil fungicide for disinfection.
2 Bed making
Make raised beds 20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide, leaving a 40 cm walkway between two beds, with the length depending on the site.
3 Planting
The planting time should be determined by two indicators: the time of flower supply and the growth cycle of the variety. Be sure to use seed bulbs whose dormancy period has already passed. The dormancy period varies with variety; generally, after the leaves turn yellow and the bulbs are lifted, dormancy can be broken in 80-120 days in an environment of 0-4°C. For seed bulb disinfection, use carbendazim at 5-10 g/kg to dress the seeds, or soak the seeds in a 2% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 10 minutes before planting. When planting, first scrape the topsoil about 8 cm deep on the bed surface to one side, then use a nail board or tree root cut to the measured size to make holes at set distances. Generally, for medium-sized bulbs the density in spring and autumn is 13 cm × 13 cm; for large bulbs increase by 1 cm, and for small bulbs decrease by 1 cm; in winter the spacing is slightly larger, and in summer it is denser. Generally, about 20,000 bulbs are planted per 667 sq m. After making the holes, place the seed bulbs on the holes, then fill back the bed soil that was scraped to one side, and rake it level.
4 Water management
After planting, water thoroughly with drip irrigation or sprinkler irrigation; except in summer, flood irrigation is prohibited. Afterwards, water the seedbed whenever it looks dry, watering until it connects with the moist lower soil layer. Avoid standing water to prevent root rot; in very dry weather, spray water on the leaves to keep the relative air humidity at about 70%.
5 Temperature management
After the seed bulbs are planted, it takes 20-30 days until emergence; during this period the temperature should be about 12°C to favor rooting. After emergence, raise the temperature, otherwise the plants are prone to infection by various diseases. Therefore, in winter production, use oil-fired furnaces or small boilers for heating, and in summer use shade nets or cover the ground with grass to lower the temperature.
6 Light management
When planting lilies in winter, choose day-neutral lilies as far as possible and do not choose long-day lilies, while in spring, summer and autumn long-day varieties are also acceptable. Lilies prefer light and cannot tolerate shade; supplemental lighting in winter gives better growth; if not supplementing light, open the straw curtains as early as possible and cover them late, to extend the light duration. In summer, if a 30% shading shade net can be used to block part of the strong light, it helps the lilies grow faster and enlarge their flowers.
7 Nutrition management
Start topdressing after the young seedlings grow stems and the leaves on the stems unfold; apply chemical fertilizer once every 10-15 days, using 4-5 kg each of diammonium phosphate and potassium nitrate mixed per 667 sq m. When the plants are 60 cm tall, spray the leaves with 2%-3% monopotassium phosphate every 7-10 days. If the whole leaf surface turns yellow, spray 0.5% urea; if the small leaves turn yellow, spray 0.1% ferrous sulfate, while adding trace fertilizers such as copper and zinc. When the flower buds are 6 cm long, stop topdressing.
8 Pest and disease control
The main diseases of lilies are black spot, gray mold and rust, which can be controlled by spraying 25% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution; the insect pests include white grubs and aphids, which can be controlled by spraying 25% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution.
★ Open-field cultivation techniques for lilies
Open-field cultivation is also a commonly used production method for cut-flower lilies. It has the advantages of low production cost and simple cultivation management, but the disadvantages of open-field cultivation are also obvious: the flowering period is not easy to control, and low product quality is the main factor affecting open-field production of cut-flower lilies.
1. Land selection
For open-field cultivation, lily plots should be chosen on high, well-drained land with loose soil. High-altitude cool mountainous areas, or areas beside lakes and rivers and peninsulas, are ideal locations for growing lilies. Northwest Yunnan Province, Xichang in Sichuan, the Qinba mountainous area in Shaanxi, Anshan in Liaoning, and Lanzhou in Gansu in China can all serve as bases for open-field production of cut-flower lilies.
Soil improvement
Generally speaking, the soil used for producing lily flowers does not occupy as vast an area as that for grain crops; if the soil texture is unsuitable, suitable soil conditions can be created by local soil replacement. When carrying out local soil replacement for a lily plot, first dig out the original soil in the rows where lilies are to be planted, and add soft, good soil medium. So-called soil medium refers to artificially prepared materials used in place of soil; commonly used soil media include pine needle soil, peat, fermented sawdust, vermiculite, perlite, etc. Mix these materials with soil in a certain proportion and fill them into the planting furrows for lilies, then plant the lilies. In addition, attention should be paid to measuring the soil pH of the cultivation site.
How to improve soil pH: 6 weeks before planting, take soil samples for analysis to determine the content of salts and oxides, the pH and the content of nutrients. If the salt content and chlorine content exceed the standard, large amounts of irrigation water must be used to dilute the salts in the soil. Maintaining the correct acidity and alkalinity helps the lily root system absorb nutrients from the soil. Applying peat mixed with topsoil can lower the pH, and using ammonium fertilizer and urea can also lower the pH. In addition, mixing a small amount of sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate into the soil can also lower the soil pH. If the soil pH is too low, mix lime-containing compounds or magnesium-containing lime with the soil before planting. After using lime, wait at least 1 week before planting. During the growth stage, it is best to use nitrate nitrogen fertilizer, which can raise the pH.
2. Crop rotation
In order to prevent the massive occurrence of lily pests and diseases, crop rotation should be practiced. Before planting, a unified plan should be made for the land used; all plots planted with cut-flower lilies should be rotated every year. During rotation, the previous crop should not be bulb flowers of the Liliaceae or Amaryllidaceae, and planting leguminous plants is most suitable.
Base fertilizer
The fertilizer applied before planting lilies is base fertilizer, generally an organic fertilizer with long-lasting effect. There are two ways to prepare the base fertilizer: one is to mix the soil with 1/3 various humus fertilizers (organic fertilizer mixed from decomposed leaf mold, compost, peat, cake fertilizer, etc.) and make a 30 cm deep furrow; first spread the above mixed soil in the furrow, then plant the lilies. Lilies planted in this mixed soil generally grow better. The mixed soil both improves the soil and achieves the purpose of applying base fertilizer.
3. Planting
Planting period: open-field cultivated lilies are mostly planted in autumn, while cold regions use spring planting.
Taking Beijing's climatic conditions as an example, the lowest temperature in January in winter is generally 8-15°C, and most cut-flower lilies can overwinter in the open field. Summer is relatively hot, and the highest temperature in July can reach 33-36°C. Therefore, lilies are in a semi-dormant period during this time. According to Beijing's climatic characteristics, lilies can be planted in autumn or spring. Autumn planting is generally carried out in September-October when the temperature drops markedly. Autumn-planted lilies develop a good root system, grow robustly, and have more flowers the following year. Spring planting is generally carried out in March-April when the temperature begins to rise. They sprout in April-May and bolt and form buds in May-June. Mid-June to the end of July is the peak flowering season for open-field cut-flower lilies.
The flowering period of autumn-planted and spring-planted lilies differs little, but the stem height and number of flowers of spring-planted lilies are inferior to those of autumn-planted lilies.
Topdressing
For open-field cultivated lilies, topdressing should be carried out in the early growth stage, late growth stage and bud stage respectively. In the early growth stage, apply 37.5 kg of diammonium phosphate and 75 kg of urea per hectare; in the late growth stage, apply 75 kg of diammonium phosphate and 22.5 kg of monopotassium phosphate per hectare; the application method is to dissolve the above fertilizers in water and pour the solution on. In the bud stage, apply 22.5 kg of potassium sulfate, 30 kg of monopotassium phosphate and 0.3 kg of boric acid per hectare, sprayed on the leaves at 0.1%.
Irrigation
Open-field cultivated lilies can obtain part of their water from natural rainfall, but because it is often not timely, it is far from sufficient to meet the needs of normal plant growth and development, especially in dry seasons, when timely irrigation is even more important. For open-field cultivated lilies, methods such as flood irrigation, sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation can be chosen according to local conditions. Flood irrigation is to lead water directly onto the bed surface, which causes soil compaction. Sprinkler irrigation distributes water evenly and can also increase air humidity. Drip irrigation uses a low-pressure pipeline system to make irrigation water form droplets, slowly and constantly infiltrating the soil within the range of the plant root activity. Modern cut-flower cultivation often combines sprinkler and drip irrigation: sprinkler irrigation creates an air humidity environment suitable for plant growth, and drip irrigation supplies the water needed for the plant root activity. The amount, frequency and timing of irrigation often vary with the season, soil texture and cultivated variety. As for the amount of water per irrigation, the principle should be thorough watering and moderation. In summer, the temperature is high and evaporation is large, so the irrigation frequency should be higher; in autumn and early [season] the water requirement is small, so water as little as possible; before freezing, irrigate once with winter water. Clay soil should be irrigated less frequently, and sandy soil more frequently. During the day, in summer, irrigate in the morning and evening, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is relatively small, so as not to affect root activity.
4. Cultivating and weeding
In open-field cultivated lilies, the soil tends to become compacted after rain or watering, which is not conducive to root growth. In addition, because weeds have strong reproductive capacity, they grow together with the lily plants and compete for water, nutrients, sunlight and space, and can also cause pest and disease problems in the lily plants. Therefore, timely cultivating and weeding must be carried out to create a good living environment for the growth of lily plants.
Cultivating should be combined with loosening the soil after irrigation. The depth of cultivation should be: shallow hoeing at the seedling stage to prevent damaging the roots; shallow hoeing near the plants, and deep hoeing in the rows far from the plants. By the time the lilies grow luxuriantly and the field rows close, there is no need to loosen the soil any more.
Weeding should be carried out as early as possible in the initial stage of weed occurrence, and the weeds must be completely removed before they set seed. As for weeding methods, for small areas manual weeding is mainly used, while for large areas mechanical weeding or chemical weeding can be used.
5. Setting up nets and supports
Open-field cultivated lilies are often susceptible to damage from unfavorable weather such as wind, rain and hail, so nets and supports must be set up in time to prevent the plants from lodging.
6. Topdressing
Lilies are a potassium-loving crop. According to nutrient analysis of Yixing lily plants at various growth stages, K2O content is the highest in all cases: the average content in the above-ground stems and leaves at various growth stages is 3.76%, which is 5.55 times the P2O5 content and 1.59 times the N content; the average K2O content in the underground bulbs at various growth stages is 2.16%, which is 4.48 times the P2O5 content and 1.59 times the N content. The seedling stage is the period with the highest K2O content among all growth stages, with 4.70% in the stems and leaves and 2.88% in the bulbs. As for the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium contained in lily plants at various growth stages, the periods with the highest K2O ratio in both the above-ground stems and leaves and the bulbs are the middle and late growth stages of the lily, namely the bulbils harvest stage and the full flowering stage (the beginning of decline of the above-ground stems and leaves). The ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the above-ground stems and leaves are 1:0.20:1.98 and 1:0.22:2.22 respectively; the ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the bulbs are 1:0.41:1.79 and 1:0.34:1.66. Traditional cultivation of Yixing lily uses straw mulching and application of organic fertilizers such as pig manure and cake fertilizer, which can supply large amounts of potassium. Generally, about 450 kg of dry straw is spread per mu; experiments have proved that if straw is not spread, the yield decreases by 14.48%. Applying more potassium fertilizer to lilies can promote root development during the overwintering period and growth at the seedling stage, and meet the high potassium demand of lily plants in the middle and late stages. Potassium can promote the synthesis and transport of carbohydrates in the crop; when potassium supply is sufficient, the content of lignin, cellulose and starch in lily plants increases, and the carbohydrates formed by photosynthesis are quickly transported to the bulbs, promoting bulb enlargement. Experiments show that applying 15 kg, 10 kg of potassium sulfate and 75 kg of plant ash per mu generally increases the yield by 10% compared with the control. Among them, the yield with plant ash ranks first. Applying potassium fertilizer in potassium-deficient fields increases the yield even more significantly, with the highest increase of 54.29%; each kilogram of potassium sulfate can increase lily yield by 32.76 kg. When lily shoots emerge, new daughter bulbs are also differentiating and developing in the heart buds of the seed bulbs, so it is necessary to promote strong seedlings and early growth in the early stage. Through repeated experiments, lily fertilizer management should adhere to the principle of "heavy at the front, controlled in the middle, supplemented at the back" and the fertilization method of two "mainly", that is, mainly organic fertilizer, applied at planting time and before emergence, accounting for more than 70% of the total fertilization amount. Generally, base fertilizer is about 450 kg of dry straw spread per mu, plus 2.5 tons of high-quality pig manure, 50-75 kg of decomposed cake fertilizer, 30 kg of standard nitrogen chemical fertilizer, 20-30 kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15-20 kg of potassium fertilizer. When earthing up before emergence, apply 50 kg of cake fertilizer, 15 kg of standard nitrogen chemical fertilizer, 10 kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15 kg of potassium fertilizer per mu (or 30-40 kg of three-element compound fertilizer alone). If there is no potassium fertilizer, increase the application of 100 kg of plant ash. For Yixing lily with a yield of more than 1000 kg per mu, the total fertilization amount is 42.7 kg of pure nitrogen, 514.1 kg of K2O [sic] and 56.2 kg of K2O, with a nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratio of 1:0.33:1.32. Experiments with different amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium chemical fertilizers show that the optimal application rate of chemical nitrogen fertilizer is 5.6 kg of P2O5 [sic] per mu, and chemical potassium K2O 7.5-22.5 kg. The suitable soil acidity and alkalinity for lily growth is pH 5.7-6.3. The soil in the Taihu Lake area is generally neutral to slightly acidic, with pH between 6.5 and 5.0. The results of experiments with different types of phosphate fertilizer show that fused calcium magnesium phosphate has a better effect than superphosphate. Lily bulbs are fresh and tender; affected by the free acid in superphosphate, the rate of rotten and missing lily plants increases, the disease is severe, with the disease incidence reaching 60% and the disease index as high as 52.5%, 4.6% lower yield than with fused calcium magnesium phosphate, and the bulb color is also poor. On alkaline soil with pH above 7.5, applying superphosphate can appropriately adjust the soil acidity and alkalinity, which is beneficial to lily growth.
★ Cultivation of Oriental lilies
Oriental lilies are one of the ten most popular fresh flowers in the world today. Because of their beautiful flower shape, bright colors and overflowing fragrance, they are ideal materials for gift bouquets, flower baskets and artistic flower arrangements. Since China's reform and opening up, they have developed rapidly. Especially in recent years, because the use of fresh flowers in China has increased sharply, their planting area has been continuously expanding, and Oriental lilies have become an indispensable type among fresh flowers. Their cultivation techniques are described below:
I. Land selection, bed preparation and disinfection
(1) Land selection. Because Oriental lily bulbs degenerate very quickly and have strict requirements for the cultivation environment, suitable planting areas are hard to find, so the choice of planting site is also of paramount importance. Oriental lilies like cool, humid climates and semi-shaded environments; the soil should be deep, loose, well-drained, rich in humus and slightly acidic.
(2) Bed preparation. The bed surface is generally prepared to a width of 1-1.2 m and a height of 25-30 cm, with a ditch width of 40 cm between beds. Before preparing the beds, apply 1-1.3 tons of humus soil or pig manure to each simple greenhouse (30 m €?.5 m), sprinkle 2 kg of carbofuran or phoxim (used to kill underground pests), water to loosen the soil and mix it thoroughly.
(3) Disinfection. Because Oriental lilies are extremely susceptible to stem rot, Phytophthora blight, leaf blight and gray mold, prevention should come first, starting with good control in the soil. The commonly used methods are steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. a. Steam disinfection: bury heat-resistant plastic pipes with small holes 30 cm below the bed surface, cover the bed surface with film, then feed in steam and continue fumigating for 1 hour. b. Chemical disinfection: generally use 40% formalin prepared into a 1:50 solution and splash it on the bed surface at a rate of 25-30 kg/M, then cover with plastic film for 2 days, then uncover the film and air-dry for 10 days; planting can be done only after the chemical vapor has completely dissipated.
II. Cultivation management
(1) Treatment of seed bulbs. Before planting, pick the seed bulbs out of the seed bulb boxes, handling them gently to prevent breaking the buds, and at the same time check the quality of the seed bulbs, removing unqualified ones such as those with broken or rotten buds, or rotten scales or basal plates; soak the seed bulbs in a 500-800 times solution of fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil or carbendazim for 15-20 minutes.
(2) Planting time. In order to bloom at Spring Festival and Valentine's Day, planting should generally be done in mid-October and early November, and it is best to plant before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m.
(3) Planting density and depth. Generally the plant spacing is 10-15 cm and the row spacing is 15-18 cm; as for depth, the planting depth is about 6-8 cm above the bud point. After planting, a layer of sawdust and fallen leaves should also be spread on the surface, and a shade net should be put in place, while watering thoroughly.
(4) Make labels and records. After planting, labels should also be made, noting the specification and planting date. Hang two thermometer-hygrometers in each greenhouse, one at the front and one in the middle, and keep a record book, observing the thermometer-hygrometers three times a day and keeping records.
(5) Points for attention
1. The sprouting point of the planted seed bulb should point vertically upward from the ground.
2. The soil temperature should be lowered before planting.
3. The Oriental lilies we plant in Guangxi are generally air-freighted from Kunming and have already been thawed, so they should be planted as soon as possible, minimizing the time left in the open field, and preferably planted within two days.
4. After the young seedlings grow 2 cm above the ground, promptly straighten any young seedlings that are growing crooked. This critical period must be strictly grasped; if this opportunity is missed, straightening the seedlings again easily damages the root system, and not straightening them will seriously affect the survival quality of the Oriental lilies.
(6) Water and fertilizer management. When planting Oriental lilies, sprinkle 5 kg of superphosphate in each greenhouse; then from planting until emergence, generally do not fertilize, but keep the soil moist, to the extent that no water seeps out when the soil is squeezed in the hand, avoiding excessive dryness or waterlogging. Especially during the rooting period and harvesting period, the water requirement is relatively large, and it must not be too dry. When the young seedlings grow to 10-15 cm, start applying the first fertilizer, then apply once a week, adhering to the principle of thin fertilizer applied frequently. At the same time, in each greenhouse select several representative plants of each specification, measure their height, leaf length and width, and number of leaves every three days, and keep records, so as to adjust and determine the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer for the next application. Generally, in the early and middle stages, apply more compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium, with a ratio of 10:15:8, to promote seedling growth and rooting; in the middle and late stages, emphasize compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, with a ratio of 8:10:20, to help increase stem hardness; spray monopotassium phosphate once every 10 days at a concentration of 0.1%. At the same time, pay attention to watering, avoid excessive dryness or waterlogging, and keep the air humidity at 50%-80%.
Points for attention: It is strictly forbidden to pour fertilizer onto the leaves; if fertilizer is accidentally poured onto the leaves, rinse it off quickly with clear water, so as not to burn the leaves and affect quality.
(7) Temperature management. The temperature must not exceed 30°C at the highest and must not be lower than 5°C at the lowest. The most suitable soil temperature is 12°C-15°C; if it exceeds 18°C or is lower than 10°C, it is unfavorable to the roots. After rooting, the temperature can be raised, maintaining 18-25°C during the day and 12-18°C at night. Too high during the day will reduce plant height, reduce the number of flower buds per stem, and produce large numbers of blind flowers; a nighttime temperature below 12°C will cause bud drop or leaf yellowing, reducing ornamental value.
(8) Light management. Flower bud development of Oriental lilies especially requires sufficient light conditions, but too high a temperature will burn the leaves and reduce the ornamental effect.
(9) Setting up nets and supports. In addition to the color, shape and petal texture of the flowers themselves, the height standard of Oriental lilies also requires the stems to stand upright and straight. Oriental lilies have very strong phototropism, and those cultivated in winter often lean toward the south and lodge, so nets and supports must be set up in time. According to the specification of the seed bulbs: for large bulbs, set up supports and nets for the first time when they grow to 20 cm, and the second time when they grow to 45-50 cm; for small bulbs, set up supports and nets for the first time when they grow to 15 cm, and the second time when they grow to 40-45 cm.
(10) Pest and disease control. Oriental lilies are prone to Phytophthora blight, gray mold and stem blight. a. Pay attention to ventilation in the greenhouse and keep it clean; b. In the early stage of the disease, immediately remove the diseased plants, and spray 1% Bordeaux mixture and 65% zineb at 600 times solution, or use 800-1000 times solution of bactericidal agents (such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, agricultural streptomycin for bacteria, etc.) to drench the roots or spray; c. Usually give priority to prevention, spraying a bactericidal agent once every 10-15 days. D. Insect pests are generally aphids; use omethoate and derris extract, etc. to prevent them, and after the disease occurs, spray 2-3 times consecutively. Pay special attention not to use dichlorvos during the flowering period, otherwise it will damage the petals; therefore, when aphids appear on the corolla, use deltamethrin or pyrethrum for control.
III. Harvesting
For those with 5-10 flower heads, harvesting can be done only after 2 flower buds have colored; for those with fewer than 5 flower heads, at least one flower bud must have colored. The best harvest time is in the morning, which can reduce water loss and keep the flower buds from wilting easily; after harvesting, insert them as soon as possible into clean water containing a preservative to absorb water.