Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing Techniques and Key Tips for Growing Flowers at Home

With their brilliant beauty, flowers adorn nature and bring people aesthetic enjoyment. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate character, improve health, and also increase scientific knowledge and enhance cultural and artistic literacy, and they also have many important economic values. Now let us take a look at the complete guide to home flower growing techniques!

The "Three Suitables" of Growing Flowers at Home

1. It is suitable to grow flowers with strong ability to absorb toxic substances: Certain flowers can absorb a certain concentration of toxic gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, hydrogen fluoride, formaldehyde, hydrogen chloride, etc. Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) can absorb mercury vapor, pomegranate plants can absorb lead vapor in the air, snapdragon, canna, morning glory, gladiolus, and dianthus can, through their leaves, convert highly toxic sulfur dioxide through oxidation into non-toxic or low-toxicity sulfate compounds, narcissus, four-o'clock flower, chrysanthemum, and saxifrage can convert nitrogen oxides into proteins in plant cells, and spider plant, aloe, and snake plant can absorb large amounts of indoor pollutants such as formaldehyde.

2. It is suitable to grow flowers that can secrete bactericidal substances: The bactericidal substances secreted by flowers such as jasmine, lilac, honeysuckle, and morning glory can kill certain bacteria in the air, inhibit the occurrence of diphtheria, tuberculosis, dysentery pathogens, and typhoid bacteria, and keep indoor air clean and hygienic.

3. It is suitable to grow flowers with "complementary" functions: Most flowers mainly carry out photosynthesis during the day, absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen, and carry out respiration at night, absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. Cacti are just the opposite, releasing carbon dioxide during the day and absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen at night. Growing flowers with "complementary" functions in the same room can not only allow the two to benefit each other, but also balance the indoor oxygen and carbon dioxide levels and keep the indoor air fresh.

The "Three Don'ts" of Growing Flowers at Home

1. Don't grow too many flowers that give off strong fragrances and pungent odors: Flowers such as orchids, roses, Chinese roses, lilies, and night-blooming jasmine can all give off rich aromas. One pot in a room fills it with fragrance, but if too many fragrant flowers are placed indoors and the scent is too strong, it will excite people's nerves, and especially if people smell it for a long time in the bedroom, it can cause insomnia. The gases given off by poinsettia and lucky bamboo are harmful to people, and prolonged contact with the microparticles given off by tulips and hydrangea can cause skin allergies and itching.

2. Don't place too many: At night most flowers release carbon dioxide and absorb oxygen, "competing for air" with people, and at night most rooms are closed, with insufficient air circulation with the outside. If too many flowers are placed indoors, it will reduce the indoor oxygen concentration at night and affect the quality of sleep at night, such as chest tightness and frequent nightmares.

3. Don't place toxic flowers indoors: For example, oleander is toxic in its stems, leaves, and even flowers during spring, summer, and autumn, and the milky sap it secretes contains a kind of oleandrin, which can cause poisoning if ingested by mistake. The bulbs of narcissus contain lycorine toxin, and if children eat them by mistake it can cause symptoms such as vomiting; the sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling, and if the sap gets into the eyes by mistake, it can harm the eyes. Too much contact with mimosa can easily cause sparse eyebrows and yellowing hair, and in serious cases cause hair loss.

The "Six Precepts" of Growing Flowers at Home

1. Being careless: Flowers, like people, are living beings and need careful care. Many flower growers lack the proper careful and diligent attitude toward these beautiful lives. First, they are mentally lazy and do not like to study flower-growing knowledge, willingly remaining laymen for a long time, and their management is not methodical. Second, they are physically lazy and are unwilling to spend too much time and energy on flowers. After the flowers enter the home, they are left aside and ignored, suffering from hunger and thirst for a long time and tormented by pests and diseases. In this way, even the best flowers will gradually wither, so lazy people cannot grow flowers well.

2. Loving them too much: Contrary to the above situation, some flower growers love flowers too much and their hands itch if they do not fiddle with them for a moment. Some water and fertilize without any regularity, watering whenever they think of it, causing flowers to die from excessive waterlogging or fertilizer. Some casually move flower pots around, moving them to several places in one day, making the flowers have to constantly adapt to the environment, disrupting normal growth patterns. If this continues, it would be strange if the flowers were not worn out to death.

3. Chasing fame and profit: Some flower enthusiasts believe that growing flowers means growing famous flowers, because famous flowers have high ornamental value and great market profit. Under the control of this mentality, they spare no expense and seek out famous flowers and trees everywhere, but the result is often that due to the lack of good maintenance conditions and management skills, the flowers die soon after being bought, which both wastes precious flowers and squanders money. This is a misconception. The correct approach should be to start with ordinary, lower-grade varieties, gradually explore the rules and techniques of growing flowers, and after reaching a certain technical level, gradually purchase more precious varieties. Only then is success more likely.

4. Not distinguishing good from bad: Some flower growers are eager for quantity and completeness, bringing home whatever variety they see. This not only makes management more difficult, but also brings some unsuitable flowers into the home, polluting the environment and harming health. For example, flowers with toxic sap can easily cause poisoning when people come into contact with them. The smell of some flowers affects people's nervous system and can easily cause breathing difficulty and even allergic reactions. In short, growing flowers at home should not be about craving quantity and completeness without distinguishing good from bad. One should choose varieties with smaller plant shapes, attractive appearances, and no harm to the human body.

5. Constantly changing: Some flower growers are restless and have no theme in growing flowers, changing the flowers at home as if in a revolving lantern. This is a great taboo in growing flowers. First, changing varieties too quickly and growing each for too short a time is not conducive to cultivating flower plants with graceful shapes and high ornamental value. Second, merely dabbling in each kind of flower is not conducive to improving one's flower-growing level, and in the end one remains a flower illiterate. Therefore, only by selecting one or two kinds of flowers and focusing on studying and cultivating them can a flower grower truly gain something.

6. Not having new ideas: Today, new knowledge and new technologies in the flower-growing industry emerge endlessly, but most flower growers still stick to traditional maintenance methods and are not good at using new technologies and new equipment in the use of flower containers, water and fertilizer management, and seedling cultivation, such as soilless cultivation, odorless flower fertilizers, and various flower containers. As a result, home flower growing is unhygienic, unattractive, and not novel, with relatively large side effects.

Spring Care of Home Potted Flowers

1. Propagating good seedlings: In spring, strong branches of Chinese rose, geranium, pomegranate, and winter jasmine can be cut for cuttings. Rhododendron and jasmine prefer acidic soil, so thick new branches of 5-10 cm can be cut, the lower leaves removed, and 3-4 top leaves kept for cuttings. For cuttings, black mountain soil, vermiculite, or yellow sand can be used as the medium. The cut branches should be sprayed moderately to maintain a certain humidity, and they generally take root after about 1 month. Orchids, agave, and spider plants can be propagated in early spring by division or by runners respectively. Spring-sown herbaceous plants grown from seed, such as asparagus fern, five-color pepper, mimosa, garden balsam, scarlet sage, morning glory, and marigold, can be broadcast sown or sown in holes.

2. Repotting and changing soil: Repotting and changing soil is a method of supplementing fertilizer for potted flowers in spring. Generally, small pots are repotted once a year, and large pots once every 3-4 years. Tall plants need to be moved to larger pots. If some root systems are too dense or have dead or rotten roots, appropriate pruning is needed. After repotting, generally the first watering should be thorough, then the plant should be placed in a cool place, and afterward watered when the pot soil is seen to be dry. Generally, after new roots grow, normal watering can resume and the plant can be moved to a sunny place.

3. Pruning and trimming: Pruning and trimming should be carried out according to different plants. Rhododendron and winter jasmine should not be pruned excessively. For pomegranate, Chinese rose, etc., dead branches, damaged branches, or overly dense branches can all be cut off in early spring to promote abundant flowers and lush leaves. Jasmine should have old leaves removed when repotted to encourage more new branches to sprout. Climbing vine plants such as Boston ivy, banks rose, wisteria, and multiflora rose can be trained so that the leaf surface receives as much sunlight as possible and grows vigorously.

Note: In early spring, potted flowers should not be moved outdoors too early, so as to avoid cold air attacks and frost damage. Watering can increase as the temperature rises, and one should keep dryness and moisture well balanced.

Summer Care of Home Potted Flowers

1. Timely watering: In summer, flowers have lush branches and leaves and consume a lot of water, so in summer flowers should be watered enough every morning and evening.

2. Building frames for shade: For all potted flowers, as soon as summer comes, a frame should be set up and reed curtains placed on it for shade, so that they can safely pass through the severe summer heat.

3. Pay attention to ventilation: For indoor flowers, when the temperature exceeds 30°C, attention should be paid to ventilation. Open the windows and let fresh air flow into the room to prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature.

4. Moisturizing and cooling: In summer, some straw can be placed over the pot soil so that sunlight does not shine directly on the pot soil, thereby lowering the temperature of the pot soil and also preventing the moisture in the pot soil from evaporating too quickly. A sprayer can also be used to moisten the leaves of the flowers, and at the same time wet the surroundings to lower the temperature and increase humidity. This is very beneficial for some flowers that like cool conditions.

Autumn Care of Home Potted Flowers

1. Adding water and fertilizer management: After the Beginning of Autumn, the weather gradually turns cooler. For some foliage plants such as asparagus fern, spider plant, and sago palm, generally a thin liquid fertilizer is applied once every half month to keep the leaves green and improve cold resistance. For chrysanthemums, camellias, rhododendrons, etc. that bloom once a year, a liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer should be applied in time to ensure sufficient nutrients so that they bloom more and larger. For Chinese roses, aglaia, jasmine, etc. that bloom multiple times a year, sufficient fertilizer and water should be supplied so that they continue to bloom. For some ornamental fruit flowers, such as kumquat, finger citron, and fruit pomegranate, 1-2 applications of thin liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer should be given.

2. Timely autumn sowing: In autumn, seeds of mature flowers and trees should be harvested in time, and tulips, gloxinia, snapdragons, etc. should be sown in time. Especially for seeds that easily lose germination ability, they should be sown in time in autumn. Combined with pruning, flower and tree cuttings can also be made. For example, cuttings of Chinese rose, rose, and multiflora rose have a relatively high survival rate.

Winter Care of Home Potted Flowers

1. Overwintering of deciduous woody flowers: Most deciduous woody flowers originate from temperate regions. Common ones include pomegranate, honeysuckle, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, and winter jasmine. They are generally in a dormant state in winter, so the room temperature can be controlled at about 5°C. If there is a balcony or small courtyard, cold-tolerant potted Chinese rose, ornamental peach, pomegranate, honeysuckle, etc. can be placed together in a wind-sheltered spot on the balcony or in a corner of the courtyard, wrapped and covered well with plastic film, and they can safely overwinter.

2. Overwintering of evergreen woody flowers: For example, oleander, kumquat, osmanthus, etc. are in a semi-dormant state, and the temperature is generally controlled above 0°C, so they can safely pass the severe winter. For aglaia, jasmine, hibiscus, and gardenia, they should be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight. The indoor temperature should be kept at about 15°C. If the temperature is too low, it will cause the flowers to die.

3. Overwintering of annual and biennial herbaceous flowers: For example, Chinese primrose, coleus, and calceolaria can grow normally if the room temperature is kept between 5-15°C. For perennial herbaceous flowers such as asparagus fern, garden balsam, geranium, and begonia, keeping sufficient sunlight and a room temperature of 10-20°C allows them to grow well. For herbaceous flowers that are dormant in winter, such as clivia and oncidium, maintaining a room temperature of about 5°C and giving an appropriate amount of light is enough, with no more than 8-10 hours of light per day. At the same time, strengthen fertilizer and water management, and they can bloom after two months.

What are the particular requirements for water used to water flowers?

1. Choice of water: The best water for watering flowers is neutral or slightly acidic river water, pond water, or rainwater. Rainwater is best for watering flowers because it contains more natural minerals. Next is river water and pond water, especially greenish pond water, which is rich in nutrients and is a relatively ideal water for watering flowers. In cities, tap water is often used to water flowers, but tap water contains a relatively high amount of bleaching powder and chemicals, so when using it to water flowers it should be stored for one or two days first. In addition, if a few slices of vitamin C are put into tap water, the chlorine in the water can be eliminated. Generally, add one slice per basin of water and let it stand for half a day before watering flowers.

2. Temperature control: As the flower proverb says: "When southern flowers move north, add alum when watering flowers," "For southern flowers grown at home in the north, fish tank water is better for watering," "Fish water is fat and rice water is strong; both are most suitable for watering potted flowers." Whether in severe winter or midsummer, do not water flowers with cold water. When the temperature is below 10°C, an appropriate amount of hot water can be added to the water to keep the water temperature as close as possible to the soil temperature and create a microclimate suitable for flower growth.

How can you tell whether a potted flower lacks water?

1. Tapping method: Gently tap the upper-middle wall of the flower pot with the knuckle of your finger. If a relatively crisp sound is produced, it means the pot soil is already dry and needs immediate watering. If a dull, muddy sound is produced, it means the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily delayed.

2. Visual method: Observe with your eyes whether the color of the surface of the pot soil has changed. If the color becomes lighter or appears light grayish-white, it means the pot soil is already dry and needs watering. If the color becomes darker or appears dark brown, it means the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily delayed.

3. Finger test method: Gently insert a finger about 2 cm deep into the pot soil and feel the soil. If it feels dry or rough and hard, it means the pot soil is already dry and needs immediate watering. If it feels slightly moist, fine, and soft, it means the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily delayed.

4. Pinching and twisting method: Pinch and twist some pot soil with your fingers. If the soil becomes powdery, it means the pot soil is already dry and should be watered immediately. If the soil forms flakes or granules, it means the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily delayed. The above methods are all based on experience, and they can only tell people the approximate condition of whether the pot soil is dry or wet. If you need to know the degree of dryness or wetness of the pot soil accurately, you can buy a soil moisture meter and insert it into the soil, and then you can see words such as "dry" or "moist" on the scale, so you can know exactly when to water.

Homemade Fertilizer for Home Potted Flowers

1. Soaking liquid fertilizer: Use a small vat (or small jar) and put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish scraps, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells, and moldy foods (peanuts, melon seeds, beans, bean powder), etc., add water and sprinkle a little trichlorfon, then cover tightly. After high-temperature fermentation and decomposition, it can be used. When using, take the clear liquid on top, dilute it with water, and then try it. The above waste materials can also be mixed with some old potting soil, add some water, put into a large plastic bag, tie tightly, and leave for a period of time, then use after fermentation.

2. Waste composting: Choose a suitable place and dig a soil pit 60-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock viscera, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste, and crushed bones into the pit, sprinkle some insecticide, cover with a layer of garden soil about 10 cm thick, and keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to compost in autumn and winter. After spring warming and decomposition with no foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as base fertilizer. It can also be sieved while wet through a 4 mm sieve and rubbed into granules; the fine part is used as topdressing and the coarse part as base fertilizer. When composting, some orange peel or diluted rice vinegar can be added to reduce the odor.

Clever Fertilizing for Home Flower Growing

1. Timely fertilizing: So-called timely fertilizing means applying fertilizer when flowers need it. The best time to fertilize is when flower leaves are found to become lighter or yellow and the plant grows thin and weak. In addition, when flower seedlings sprout leaves and branches unfold leaves, topdressing should be applied to meet the fertilizer needs of rapid seedling growth. Different growth stages of flowers also have different fertilizer needs. The type and amount of fertilizer applied also differ. For example, applying more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage can promote seedling growth, and applying phosphorus fertilizer at the bud stage can promote larger, brighter flowers and a longer flowering period.

2. Appropriate amount of fertilizer: Fertilizing potted flowers should follow the principle of "eat small meals often," that is, fertilize frequently but with a small amount each time. Generally, apply thin fertilizer water once every 7-10 days, and once every 15-20 days after the "Beginning of Autumn." As the flowers and trees gradually grow, the fertilizer concentration gradually increases. For example, the application concentration of urea gradually increases from 0.2% in the early stage to 1.0%, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer increases from 1.0% to 3.0-4.0%.

3. Seasonal fertilizing: In spring and summer, flowers grow quickly and vigorously, so an appropriate amount of more fertilizer can be applied. After autumn begins, the temperature gradually decreases, flower growth weakens, and less fertilizer should be applied. From late August to early September, fertilizing should stop to prevent a second growth peak, otherwise it is easy to make flower tissue cells tender and cause difficulties in overwintering. For overwintering flowers, fertilizing should stop in winter when they are dormant.

4. Temperature control: Potted flowers should not be fertilized around noon at high temperatures or on rainy days, because fertilizing at this time easily damages the roots. It is best to fertilize in the evening. After autumn and in winter, when the temperature is low, flowers grow slowly and generally are not fertilized. In summer, when the temperature is high, flowers grow vigorously and should be fertilized more. When the temperature is high, the concentration of topdressing should be low and the amount should be small, and thin fertilizer water should be used for topdressing several more times.

5. Mixed application of medicine and fertilizer: If pests or diseases occur when fertilizing, an appropriate amount of pesticide can be added to the fertilizer liquid, which can achieve the dual effect of fertilizing and preventing pests and diseases.

Why do flowers grown at home die?

1. Too much fertilizer: Some people love flowers so much that, considering that potted flowers consume a lot of nutrients during the flowering period, they apply a large amount of chemical fertilizer, causing the concentration to be too high. In mild cases this affects the absorption of water by root hairs, and in serious cases it causes the plant to die.

2. Applying too much undecomposed organic fertilizer: Because when organic fertilizer decomposes in the soil there is a large amount of microbial activity, causing soil oxygen deficiency, and the roots suffocate and die. On the other hand, organic fertilizer fermentation produces substances such as alcohol and lactic acid that are toxic to the root system, and fermentation also releases a large amount of heat, raising the temperature and causing the phenomenon of "burning roots."

3. No place for growing flowers: People often place potted flowers in enclosed balconies facing east or west. In this way, due to the radiant heat of the sun, the temperature inside the balcony rises sharply, forming a hot, dry environment. High temperature, dryness, and lack of ventilation also easily lead to red spider mite damage, accelerating the death of the flowers.

4. Overwintered flowers suddenly moved outside: The leaves grown by flowers overwintered indoors are semi-shade leaves or shade leaves. If they are suddenly moved outside in early spring, the shade leaves cannot adapt, and tender leaves and buds are easily scorched by sunlight. In addition, the large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors can easily cause fatal damage to the flowers.

5. Lack of sunlight: Some people, for convenience of appreciation, place flowers on indoor desks and tables, far from sunlight, causing their photosynthesis to be inhibited. The organic nutrients in the flowers can only be consumed and cannot be replenished in time, reducing the flowers' resistance and causing the plants to weaken and die. Watering too much and too frequently is also a cause of plant death.

Key Points of Daily Flower Growing

1. Repot in time

Potted flowers generally need to be replanted into another pot after a certain period of growth; otherwise, as the plant gradually grows, the root mass fills the flower pot, the nutrients in the pot soil are already exhausted, and because of long-term watering the pot soil becomes alkalized, compacted, poorly aerated, and unable to retain water, thus affecting the normal growth of the plant. Through repotting, some new nutrient soil is added, increasing soil fertility, and at the same time part of the old roots are cut off, which is beneficial to the metabolism of the flower root system.

Aloe after repotting

2. Water correctly

Generally, river water and rainwater are suitable for watering flowers, and rainwater is especially best because it contains minerals and also more air, making it suitable for flower growth. In addition, in daily home life, rice-washing water, replaced fish tank water, and beer all contain rich nutrients and are very suitable for watering flowers.

Water correctly

3. Prune reasonably

Pruning can not only make the plant shape neat, moderate in height, and graceful in form, but also, by promptly cutting off unnecessary branches, save nutrients, adjust plant growth, improve light transmission conditions, and thereby make flowers grow robustly with more flowers and abundant fruit. Some flower varieties should undergo pruning work such as pinching, bud removal, flower thinning, and cutting of leggy branches during the growth period. For some woody deciduous potted flowers, in addition to pruning during the growth period, pruning can be carried out during the dormant period from leaf fall to before budding, and some necessary care should also be given to the cuts according to actual conditions.

Plants reasonably pruned according to designed shapes

Key Points for Growing Flowers in a Small Courtyard